Classic Deli Slaw with Sour Cream and Mayo

This is the slaw you get at delis and diners: usually hashed, creamy, slightly sweet and sour, wet but not too runny. The secret to the best is using both sour cream and mayo. The slaw is a great accompaniment that will put out the fire of hot barbecue sauces. A fine counterpoint to vinegar-based sauces, it makes the perfect topping for vinegary East Carolina–type pulled pork sandwiches.

You can also add two tart apples, like Granny Smith. This gives a hidden flavor dimension that people will appreciate but have trouble identifying. In Florida some places add 1 cup chopped (pea-size) fresh (not canned) pineapple. Or substitute about 3 tablespoons concentrated apple juice for the sugar. I also like to add a fennel bulb. A minced jalapeño gives a nice contrast, and horseradish, just a tablespoon in the background, is a surprisingly good addition.

Makes 8 small servings

Takes 30 minutes to prepare, 1 hour or more to chill

1. To make the dressing, in a large bowl, whisk together all the dressing ingredients.

2. To make the slaw, cut the vegetables so you can feed them into your food processor. Shred them using the fine grating disk or grate them on the small holes of a box grater to create a fine hash.

3. Add the vegetables to the bowl with the dressing and mix thoroughly. Adjust the seasonings to your taste. Chill for at least 1 hour and serve.