A Global Vegan Kitchen
Vegan kitchens tend to be “without borders” naturally because once people begin to enjoy various plant-based ingredients that may have been previously unknown to them, they find themselves drawn to exploring cuisines from all over the world. They begin to experiment with different spices, colorful vegetables, and a world of beans, whole grains, and sauces.
The recipes in Vegan Without Borders are free of animal ingredients. Some are naturally plant-based while others have been made so by a simple ingredient swap, such as using nondairy milk or vegetable broth, or using plant-proteins such as beans, seitan, or tofu instead of meat. Additionally, some traditional recipes call for copious amounts of lard or butter, but you’ll find that my recipes use only a modest amount of oil, and many can be made with no oil at all.
People transitioning to plant-based foods from an omnivorous diet need to pay special attention to their nutrition—many of those who don’t succeed dropped their meats and dairy, but didn’t take the time to learn about the wondrous variety of vegetables and ingredients by which they can make their meals balanced as well as delicious. It’s a good idea to read through the following list even if you are a longtime vegan, as a reminder or perhaps to spark some new ideas.
Ingredients
One of my goals while writing this book was to make it easy to explore cooking from a variety of international cuisines, wherever you live. In order to make the recipes most accessible, I tried, as much as possible, to use ingredients that are easily found in well-stocked supermarkets or natural food stores. Still, there remain a few ingredients that can only be found in ethnic markets or online, but if it is an integral ingredient to a cuisine that you love, it will be worth the effort to get it.
I think vegans, in general, tend to be more open to a variety of cuisines because of the fact that many of the world’s cuisines feature plantbased recipes, so it was a natural progression to try them. Cooking with a variety of whole grains, beans, or legumes, and fresh vegetables, fruits, and seasonings allows you to explore the world’s cuisines while enjoying a healthful vegan diet. While it’s the particular herbs, spices, and techniques that go into giving a recipe its cultural identity, there are also several foundational ingredients that form the canvas upon which all the flavorful brushstrokes are lavished. The following is a brief overview of the basic ingredients used throughout this book.
Dried beans, also known as legumes, are widely used throughout the world as a major protein source. Beans are inexpensive, easy to prepare, low in fat, and an important part of a well-balanced vegan diet. Popular bean varieties include chickpeas, black-eyed peas, lentils, split peas, black beans, pinto beans, kidney beans, lima beans, fava beans, and white beans (Great Northern, navy, and cannellini). Once called “poor man’s meat,” beans are high in protein, fiber, carbohydrates, and B vitamins. Keep a variety of dried beans on hand. For convenience, you can cook dried beans in large batches and then portion and freeze them for ease of use. I also suggest keeping a supply of canned beans on hand, such as black beans, chickpeas, kidney beans, pintos, and cannellini beans.
Considered staple foods throughout the world, grains can be an economical source of high-quality nutrition. Among the many grains to choose from are rice, millet, quinoa, barley, and many others. Each type of grain has its own nutritional value, unique flavor, and cooking characteristics. When combined with beans, vegetables, and seasonings, grains provide great taste and texture, in addition to good nutrition. Some grains, such as quinoa and bulgur, cook faster than others. For convenience, longer-cooking grains, such as brown rice, can be prepared in large batches, portioned, and stored in the freezer.
VEGETABLES AND FRUITS
Fresh produce is loaded with nutrients such as vitamin C, potassium, iron, and calcium and eating a wide variety of vegetables and fruit helps ensure optimum nutritional benefits. In many international cuisines, you are more likely to find vegetables featured as an integral part of a meal rather than as a typically American side dish.
Fresh organic, locally grown produce is optimal; however, when it is unavailable or out of season, or simply too expensive for the budget, nonorganic “supermarket” produce will suffice. Some frozen vegetables can also be incorporated into your meals because they are convenient and economical, and, since they are frozen when they are fresh, they actually retain many of their nutrients. Among the frozen vegetables I keep on hand are artichoke hearts, green peas, bell pepper strips, chopped spinach, corn kernels, and edamame. I also keep some canned vegetables in the pantry, notably tomatoes and tomato products, artichoke hearts, solid-pack pumpkin, and, of course, canned beans of all kinds.
OILS
There are those who follow a no-oil, or low-oil diet. To make this book more accessible to them, many of its recipes feature a no-oil option in which you can, instead, “water sauté” ingredients. Recipes that can be prepared without oil are so noted. If you do use oil, however, here’s what I recommend.
The best-quality oils are cold-pressed, or unrefined. A little extra-virgin olive oil adds flavor to salads and other dishes, except for high-heat stir-fries, where you want an oil that has a higher smoking point and will not start breaking down before you get it to the right temperature. A good “all-purpose” oil is grapeseed oil. It has a fairly high smoking point and so it can be used for high-temperature cooking, such as stir-frying or sautéing. Because of its light flavor, it also makes a good component in dressings and sauces.
Toasted or dark sesame oil adds an Asian flavor to salads and other recipes, but think of it as a seasoning rather than a cooking oil, because it is unstable at high temperatures. Add it at the last minute for flavor. Flaxseed oil is an excellent source of omega-3 fatty acids, which are so important for good health. Like toasted sesame oil, flaxseed oil is unstable at high temperatures and should not be used for cooking. Unlike toasted sesame oil, it is virtually flavorless, but you can use it on salads to boost your intake of omega-3s. All of these oils are highly perishable, so be sure to store them in the refrigerator.
Coconut oil is another choice you may want to consider. It can withstand high temperatures and is especially useful for frying. Studies show a very low incidence of heart disease among people who consume coconut oil on a regular basis. In addition, coconut oil aids calcium absorption and is rich in antimicrobial properties. Organic, unrefined food-grade coconut oil is available at natural food stores and online.
Nuts and seeds are staple foods in many cultures in addition to being important protein sources for vegans. Nuts are popular in both sweet and savory dishes and are often enjoyed as a snack food. Due to their high oil content, nuts and seeds go rancid quickly once shelled and should be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator, where they will keep for several months.
Studies have shown that eating just two ounces of almonds, pecans, or other nuts each day as part of a high-fiber vegan diet can dramatically lower “bad” low-density lipoprotein (LDL) cholesterol.
When nuts or seeds are ground into a paste, they are referred to as butters and are used in a variety of cuisines around the world. Nut and seed butters are rich in protein, fiber, and essential fatty acids and can be used to replace butter or margarine on bread or toast. At least half of the fat in nuts is monounsaturated, which can actually be good for blood cholesterol. Nut butters are a boon to vegans as a versatile source of protein and can be used to make sauces, to enrich soups and stews, and as a healthy fat replacement in baking. They are easier to digest than whole nuts and are easy to make at home.
SALT
Even a small amount of salt can make the difference between a well-seasoned dish and one that lacks flavor. The best salt for general use is sea salt, because it is naturally derived, has a good flavor, and contains minerals that are nutritionally beneficial. There are also a number of “fancy” salts available that are fun to use, such as Himalayan pink salt that has a delicate flavor and the sulfurous black salt that can make a vegan omelet taste like one made with eggs. Steer clear of refined table salt. It is bitter, devoid of nutrition, and loaded with chemicals that are added to make it flow freely.
SWEETENERS
Instead of using white table sugar, I usually prefer to use a naturally processed granulated sugar, such as Sucanat or Florida Crystals. For Southeast Asian recipes, date or palm sugar is a good choice because of its deep, almost caramelized flavor.
Natural liquid sweeteners that can be used instead of honey are pure maple syrup, agave nectar, and coconut nectar. Sweeteners such as barley malt and brown rice syrup are about half as sweet as honey, so you may need to experiment to achieve the desired results. Soaked and pureed dates and raisins, as well as molasses, are good natural sweeteners, but their dark color and distinctive flavors make them appropriate for only certain recipes.
VEGETABLE BROTH
Homemade vegetable broth is easy and economical to make, but it can also take up a lot of space in the refrigerator or freezer. You can buy prepared vegetable broth in cans and aseptic containers. However it can be expensive, and the strength and flavor of the various brands can vary greatly. More economical choices include vegan bouillon cubes, powdered vegetable base, and vegetable broth paste. These products are easy to use, and can be made into broth with the addition of boiling water.
It’s important to note that the saltiness of the different broths can vary widely. Be sure to taste any broth before using it, because the flavor may impact your finished dish. If the flavor of your broth is stronger than you would like, simply dilute it with water. As broth reduces while cooking, the saltiness increases, so you’ll need to judge the saltiness as you cook. For these reasons, the recipes often suggest salting “to taste.” My personal favorite product to keep on hand for making vegetable broth is Superior Touch Better Than Bouillon vegetable base paste. It has a good flavor and is easy to use. If you prefer to make homemade broth from scratch, here is a basic recipe.
This basic vegetable broth can be cooled and frozen in several storage containers with tight-fitting lids so you can defrost exactly what you need for a recipe. Be sure to scrub and wash all vegetables well before using.
1 tablespoon olive oil or ¼ cup water
1 large yellow onion, coarsely chopped
2 large carrots, coarsely chopped
1 large russet potato, unpeeled and cut into chunks
2 celery ribs, including leaves, coarsely chopped
3 cloves garlic, crushed
3 quarts water
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 cup coarsely chopped fresh parsley
2 bay leaves
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns
Heat the oil in a large stockpot over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots, potato, celery, and garlic. Cover and cook until slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Add the 3 quarts of water and the soy sauce, parsley, bay leaves, salt, and peppercorns. Bring to a boil, then decrease the heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, for 1 hour to reduce the liquid by one-third and bring out the flavors of the vegetables.
Strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into another pot, pressing the juices out of the vegetables with the back of a large spoon. Discard the solids. The broth is now ready to use. For a stronger broth, bring the broth back to a boil, and reduce the volume by one-quarter. This broth keeps well in the refrigerator for up to 3 days if kept tightly covered, or portioned and frozen for up to 4 months.
Makes about 2 quarts
PLANT PROTEINS
Beyond beans and legumes, other main sources of plant-based protein are tofu (soybean curd), tempeh (compressed soybeans), and seitan (wheat-meat). Here is some basic information about each.
TOFU
Tofu, a curd made from soybeans, is a rich protein source. In China, tofu is called “meat without the bones.” Nutritionally, tofu is very high in protein, calcium, iron, and B-complex vitamins. Its lack of flavor makes tofu a blank canvas for the imaginative cook because it readily absorbs other flavors and seasonings. Before using tofu, drain it well and press out the water to give it a firmer texture and allow it to absorb more flavor as it cooks. Regular tofu is also known as Chinese bean curd, and silken tofu is called Japanese-style tofu. Both are available in soft, firm, and extra-firm varieties. Firm and extra-firm regular tofu are used in stir-fries and other dishes that require a sturdy texture that retains its shape during cooking. Soft regular tofu can be used in recipes where a softer texture is desired. Silken tofu is used in recipes requiring a smooth, creamy texture, such as smoothies, sauces, and puddings. Regular tofu and silken tofu are not used interchangeably in most recipes—when tofu is called for in my recipes, it means regular Chinese tofu, unless “silken” is specified. Regular tofu is also sold baked and marinated in a number of flavors, which can be used without further seasoning.
Regular tofu may be stored unopened in the refrigerator until the expiration date on the package. Once opened, it is best to use it right away, although it can be submerged in fresh water in a covered container (to prevent it from absorbing surrounding flavors) and kept in the refrigerator for several days. Silken tofu is usually sold in aseptic containers that can be kept unrefrigerated until opened. Once opened, however, it should be used within two to three days.
Tofu is generally packaged in water, so it must be drained before using it in recipes. To remove even more moisture, cut the tofu into slabs and place them on a cutting board or baking sheet lined with two or three layers of paper towels. Cover the tofu with paper towels and blot to help enable the tofu to better absorb flavors. To remove most of the moisture from regular tofu and thereby achieve a firmer texture, place a baking sheet on top of the tofu after blotting. Weight down the sheet with canned goods or a heavy skillet and allow to sit for one hour, then use as desired. Another way to change the texture of regular tofu is to freeze it. (Do not freeze silken tofu.) Once thawed, the tofu will be chewier and more porous, making it ideal for marinating and sautéing. To freeze tofu, cut drained and pressed tofu into thin slices and wrap in plastic or place in an airtight container. When you are ready to use the tofu, defrost it, then squeeze it to remove any excess moisture. Once thawed, it should be used within two to three days. Since frozen tofu will keep for several months, this is a good way to store tofu that is near its expiration date.
TEMPEH
Originating in Indonesia, tempeh is made of fermented, compressed soybeans that are formed into firm cakes. Tempeh has a distinctive flavor and chewy texture and can be cubed, crumbled, or grated to resemble ground meat. It marinates well and turns a crisp, golden brown when fried. High in protein and B vitamins, including vitamin B12, tempeh can be found in the refrigerated section of natural food stores and some supermarkets. Tempeh is sold in 8- or 12-ounce packages, depending on the brand. It can be sliced lengthwise, cut into strips, cubed, or grated. Tempeh must be stored in the refrigerator, where it will keep unopened for several weeks (check the expiration date). Once opened, however, it should be tightly wrapped and used within three to four days. Tempeh also may be stored in the freezer for a month or so.
Steaming Tempeh For best results, I recommend that you steam tempeh before using it to mellow its flavor and also to make it more digestible. When recipes call for “steamed tempeh,” it simply means that before using it in a recipe, the tempeh should be steamed in a steamer basket over boiling water for at least 15 minutes. Once it is steamed, tempeh can then be used as desired in recipes.
SEITAN
Called “wheat-meat” because it is made from the protein part of wheat, seitan (pronounced “say-TAN”) is a versatile ingredient that can be ground, diced, cubed, or sliced. Made with vital wheat gluten flour and water (and seasonings), seitan can be purchased ready-made in the refrigerated or freezer sections of most natural food stores. However, because it can be expensive to buy and is easy to make at home, I suggest making your own. A recipe for homemade seitan is below. In addition to being a good source of protein, vitamin C, and iron, seitan is also low in fat and calories: One 4-ounce serving contains only 70 calories and 1 gram of fat.
This recipe makes about 2 pounds that can be divided into 8-ounce portions, tightly wrapped, and frozen for later use. You can also keep seitan in the refrigerator for up to five days, either in a covered container in its cooking broth or portioned and tightly wrapped in freezer wrap and placed in freezer bags. Cooking instructions are provided to make seitan either on top of the stove or in a slow cooker. This seitan can be used in any of the recipes in this book that call for seitan.
2 cups vital wheat gluten
¼ cup nutritional yeast
3 tablespoons tapioca flour
1 teaspoon onion powder
1 teaspoon garlic powder
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1½ cups cold water
6 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 cups cold vegetable broth
In a food processor or mixing bowl, combine the vital wheat gluten, nutritional yeast, tapioca flour, onion powder, garlic powder, salt, and pepper and pulse or stir to mix. Add the water, 2 tablespoons of the soy sauce, and the oil and process or stir to mix well. Turn out the mixture onto a flat surface and knead for 2 minutes into a soft dough. Set the dough aside to rest for 5 minutes.
Stovetop Method: Divide the dough into four equal pieces and place them in a large pot with enough cold cooking broth to cover. Add the remaining 4 tablespoons of soy sauce and bring almost to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 1 hour.
Slow Cooker Method: Divide the dough into four equal pieces and place them in a slow cooker with enough cooking broth to cover. Add the remaining 4 tablespoons of soy sauce, cover with the lid, and cook on low heat for 6 to 8 hours.
After cooking (either method): Transfer the cooked seitan to a baking sheet to cool. Once cool, tightly wrap the portions of seitan, placing some of it in the freezer for later use, and the remainder in the refrigerator (whatever you plan to use within a few days). The seitan can now be cut or sliced to use in recipes.
Makes about 2 pounds seitan
Note: Seitan will keep in the refrigerator for 4 to 5 days and in the freezer for several weeks. The cooking liquid may be strained and used as a broth in sauces, soups, and other recipes or frozen in a tightly covered container and used to make the next batch of seitan.
OTHER PLANT-BASED PROTEINS
Textured vegetable protein (TVP) is a handy ingredient to keep in your pantry. Sold as dehydrated granules that double in size when reconstituted with a hot liquid, TVP is one of the most economical meat alternatives you could buy. Look for TVP in natural food stores and well-stocked supermarkets, where it is often sold in bulk. To rehydrate, place the desired amount in a heatproof bowl and cover with boiling water.
A popular TVP-like product is called Butler Soy Curls, which are made from textured non-GMO, whole soybeans. They are easy-to-use strips with a great texture and can be used in most recipes calling for seitan, tempeh, or extra-firm tofu.
DAIRY AND EGG ALTERNATIVES
There are a variety of ways to replace dairy products and eggs in recipes, including nondairy milk, vegan mayonnaise, and vegan cheeses.
Nondairy milk, including those made from soy, almonds, rice, oats, and coconut, can be used in recipes in the same way dairy milk is used. For savory recipes, it’s important to use plain “unsweetened” varieties, however, as some brands of nondairy milk contain added sugar, even those labeled simply “plain.” I generally use plain unsweetened almond milk for both savory and sweet recipes. Coconut milk is sold in a variety of ways: in refrigerated cartons next to the soy and almond milk, or the canned variety that has a richer texture and distinctive flavor making it most suitable for Thai or Indian recipes or in certain desserts. Other products, such as vegan versions of mayonnaise, cream cheese, sour cream, yogurt, and various types of cheese, are available to use instead of dairy products.
In addition to nondairy milks, you can buy (or make your own) vegan mayonnaise, sour cream, cream cheese, and a variety of cheeses made from nuts, soy, and rice. When buying such products, read the label to be sure the product does not contain casein or other dairy by-products that are sometimes added to make the cheese melt better. When you need a solid butter alternative, look for a nonhydrogenated vegan buttery spread, such as Earth Balance.
There are a number of egg substitutes. Depending on the recipe and the function eggs serve in it, alternatives include ground flaxseeds blended with water; silken tofu; applesauce or other pureed fruit, vegetable, or bean; and egg replacement powder made from vegetable starch and leaveners.
Kitchen Equipment
A few good basic kitchen tools and equipment can go a long way to making your cooking life easier. You don’t have to buy the most expensive equipment available. Just get the best quality you can afford, and buy only what you need. For example, there’s no reason to get a huge set of pots and pans (or other equipment) when just a few basics will do.
MUST HAVES
BASIC TOOLS
Every kitchen needs cutting boards, a colander, spatulas, vegetable peeler, vegetable brush, box grater, wooden spoons, and a potato masher.
Knives: Every kitchen needs three basic knives: a paring knife for peeling and trimming; a long serrated knife for slicing bread, tomatoes, and other fragile foods; and a good (8- or 10-inch) chef’s knife for virtually everything else. Buy the best quality knives you can afford and keep them sharp. You can chop more quickly and safely with sharp knives than with dull ones.
Pots and Pans: Every kitchen needs at least one pot big enough to boil pasta and make several quarts of vegetable stock. You also need a couple of smaller saucepans, including one with a steamer insert for steaming vegetables. Two or three heavy-bottomed skillets, ranging in size from 8 to 16 inches in diameter, are a must. At least one skillet should have a nonstick surface. One cast-iron skillet is also a good investment. All pots and skillets should have lids that fit well.
Baking Pans: At least two sheet pans are a must (9 by 13-inch is a good size); muffin tins, 9 by 5-inch loaf pan, 8 by 8-inch square baking pan, and a 9 by 13-inch baking dish or lasagna pan; a pie plate, springform pan (you’ll thank me), and two 9-inch round cake pans.
Mix It Up: Stock your kitchen with a few mixing bowls, measuring cups and spoons, and a glass measuring pitcher for liquids.
Food Processor: A food processor is essential for making pesto, pureeing vegetables, chopping nuts, and making bread crumbs. It is also great for making pie dough, chopping vegetables, and numerous other mixing and chopping tasks. The trick is knowing when it will be faster to cut, whisk, or chop by hand, and that can usually be determined by the quantity of food involved. In addition to a large-capacity processor, some people also have a smaller model that they use for smaller tasks.
Blenders, Great and Small: Specifically, (a) a high-speed blender, such as a Vitamix, is ideal for making smooth creamy sauces, soups, and desserts; and (b) an immersion blender, handy for pureeing soups right in the pot. Also called a stick blender, it’s easier to clean than a regular blender and it saves the time of pouring your recipe into a blender container.
Salad Spinner: The easiest and quickest way to dry your salad greens after washing them. It gets every drop of water off your lettuce, leaving it crisp and ready for your salad.
NICE-TO-HAVES
SMALL BUT MIGHTY
Small hand tools that come in handy include a citrus zester, Microplane grater, and an olive/cherry pitter.
Mandoline: A great tool when you need very thin slices very fast. It allows you to cut uniform slices, from thick to paper thin, with ease and swiftness—just watch your fingers because the blades are super sharp. Note: The plastic Benriner slicer is a smaller, less expensive, version of the stainless-steel mandoline, making it a good choice if you’re on a budget.
Spice Grinder: Not a “must-have” but an electric spice grinder (or coffee grinder) can be very handy especially if you like to make your own spice blends from whole spices.
Steamer: This can be a dedicated saucepan with a fitted perforated steamer pan and lid, or a small collapsible perforated steamer insert to use in your existing saucepans; or a bamboo or similar steamer. It will be put to use for steaming items such as vegetables, dumplings, tempeh, to name a few.
Kitchen Tips
In addition to keeping a well-stocked pantry, here are a few other tips to help make your cooking time more enjoyable.
Organize your workspace. Before you start cooking, assemble all of the ingredients and the equipment you’ll need to make a recipe. That includes measuring out the ingredients in advance. This is called mise en place. If you do this before you begin to cook, it will save you time, reduce stress, and may even improve your cooking skills by helping you avoid kitchen mishaps, such as missing ingredients or burning the onions while you search for a spatula.
Read the entire recipe—twice. It’s much easier to prepare a recipe when you are familiar with it. Be sure to read through a recipe to avoid any midrecipe surprises.
Plan ahead. Keep essential ingredients on hand to prevent time-wasting extra shopping trips for one or two ingredients: for example, stock, cooked beans, and vegetable broth in the freezer; or buy canned vegetable broth and beans to stash in the pantry.
Be flexible. Even when we try to plan ahead and have everything we need on hand to make a recipe, sometimes we run out of an ingredient at the last minute. When that happens, don’t panic. Just figure out whether you have something on hand to substitute for the missing ingredient. To avoid running out of the ingredients you use most frequently, keep a grocery list handy in the kitchen so you can write down items the minute you run out or that are getting low.
Swap it. If you don’t like a particular ingredient in a recipe, or perhaps you don’t have it on hand, chances are you can still make the recipe. It’s often a simple matter of substituting one ingredient for another, such as using white beans instead of chickpeas, or basil instead of cilantro.
Season to taste. With the help of my dedicated recipe testers, I have done my best to use seasonings in these recipes that should please most palates. However, you should still use your own judgment regarding the use of various herbs and spices, depending on your personal tastes as well as to adjust for variables such as the strength (and saltiness) of your vegetable broth, or the heat of your chiles.