QUINCY
This cake came into being through sheer dumb luck, when we were scrounging about trying to pull a cake together for some friends. Roger McShane and Sue Dyson run an amazing business importing French organic and biodynamic wines, and this cake was for a wine matching. These two are food critics and really know their stuff, so there was nowhere to hide! I think they liked it — but as with all food critics, who really knows what the hell they are thinking? I believe they enjoy seeing chefs in constant turmoil.
MAKES ONE 20 CM (8 INCH) CAKE
HAZELNUT DACQUOISE
5 egg whites
a pinch of cream of tartar
50 g (1¾ oz) caster (superfine) sugar
125 g (4½ oz) ground hazelnuts
125 g (4½ oz) icing (confectioners’) sugar
Preheat the oven to 200ºC (400ºF/Gas 6). Whisk the egg whites and cream of tartar in the bowl of a stand mixer until stiff peaks form.Slowly add the caster sugar down the side of the bowl and whisk for 3–4 minutes, or until the meringue is shiny and smooth.
Combine the ground hazelnuts and icing sugar. Using a spatula, gently fold the mixture into the meringue.
Draw two 20 cm (8 inch) circles on two sheets of baking paper. Turn the sheets over and use them to line two baking trays. Deposit half the meringue mixture into the outline of each paper circle, then smooth the top with a palette knife or the back of a spoon. Don’t worry too much if the meringue goes over the line, as you can always trim it with a knife prior to assembling the cake.
Bake for 5 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 170ºC (325ºF/Gas 3) and bake for a further 20 minutes, or until the dacquoise feels firm, like a sponge. Remove from the oven and leave to cool on the trays.
Transfer to an airtight container until ready to use; the dacquoise will keep for up to 2 days.
QUINCE JELLY
100 g (3½ oz) caster (superfine) sugar
2 quinces, peeled and cored
10 g (¼ oz) gelatine sheets
Put the sugar and 400 ml (14 fl oz) water in a large saucepan. Add the quinces, then slowly bring to the boil to dissolve the sugar. Cover with a round of baking paper and bring to a slow simmer. Cook, without the lid on, for 6 hours, or until the quinces turn a deep, dark red. Transfer to an airtight container, cover with a round of baking paper, seal the lid and refrigerate until required.
Spray the outside edge of a 20 cm (8 inch) cake ring with cooking oil. (If you don’t have a cake ring, use a loose-based tin without the base.) Tear off a sheet of plastic wrap, about 50 cm (20 inches) long, and fold in half to create a double thickness. Scrunch the plastic wrap around the bottom of the cake ring, pulling it fairly tight to create a ‘drum’. Place on a baking tray.
Remove the quinces from the poaching liquid, reserving the liquid. Slice the quinces lengthways, about 5 mm (¼ inch) thick, then arrange over the plastic lining of the cake ring.
Soak the gelatine in cold water for 5 minutes. Drain and squeeze out the excess liquid.
Warm 200 ml (7 fl oz) of the reserved quince poaching liquid, add the gelatine and stir to dissolve. Pour the jelly over the fruit and set in the fridge for 1–2 hours to create a nice even layer. The jelly can be made a day or two ahead.
YOGHURT MOUSSE
3 egg yolks
90 g (3¼ oz) caster (superfine) sugar
9 g (¼ oz) gelatine sheets
finely grated zest of 1 lemon
300 ml (10½ fl oz) thin (pouring) cream
250 g (9 oz) plain yoghurt
Place a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of gently simmering water, ensuring the base of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Gently whisk the egg yolks and sugar in the bowl until pale and creamy.
Meanwhile, soak the gelatine in a bowl of cold water for 5 minutes. Drain and squeeze out the excess liquid, then add to the egg yolks and stir to dissolve. Stir in the lemon zest.
Whip the cream to soft peaks. Gently fold the yoghurt into the egg yolk mixture, followed by the whipped cream.
The mousse is best made just before assembling the cake.
Line a 20 cm (8 inch) cake ring with acetate, so that the finished cake will slide out easily. (If you don’t have a cake ring, use a loose-based tin without the base.) Ensure your dacquoise fits into the ring; and if not, trim the edges. Place on a baking tray.
Smear the melted chocolate over one of the dacquoise bases. Allow to set briefly, then place the dacquoise in the ring, chocolate side down. (The main purpose of this is to stop the dacquoise sticking to the plate or stand, making the cake more manageable when it comes to eating.)
Dig about in the back of the fridge and pull out some lemon curd. Spread a fine layer over the dacquoise, before placing the second dacquoise on the top and giving it a little press. Add another thin layer of lemon curd, then add half the mousse.
Now take the quince jelly from the fridge and remove the ring and plastic wrap. Place the jelly on top of the cake. Top with the remaining mousse and level with a palette knife.
Chill the cake in the fridge overnight before serving; the entire cake can be made ahead and frozen for several weeks.
To serve, simply remove the cake ring and acetate.