Transportation
Getting There
By Air
Ecuador has two international airports, at Quito (Mariscal Sucre) and Guayaquil (José Joaquín de Olmedo). The largest planes cannot land at Mariscal Sucre airport, and some airlines fly only as far as Guayaquil, but that’s all about to change with the opening of Quito’s brand-new international airport. Due for inauguration in 2013, it will be the main point of air arrivals into the country. If Guayaquil is your entrance point into Ecuador, but you plan to head for the capital, make sure that your international ticket includes the onward connection, otherwise you will need to buy another ticket in Guayaquil airport. The flight time between Quito and Guayaquil is approximately 30 minutes.
International Airlines
The following airlines operate flights to Quito and Guayaquil.
American Airlines www.aa.com
Avianca www.avianca.com
Continental www.continental.com
Copa www.copaair.com
Delta Airlines www.delta.com
Iberia www.iberia.com
KLM www.klm.com
LAN www.lan.com
TACA www.taca.com
Flights from the US and Canada
Travelers heading to Ecuador from the US can fly directly to Quito with American Airlines and LAN from Miami and via Guayaquil from New York. Continental also flies direct from New York to Guayaquil and Quito. Delta Airlines has flights via Atlanta. TACA operates flights from several US cities, including Dallas and New York. You can also fly to Quito with Avianca from various US cities via Bogotá, Colombia; TACA via San José, Costa Rica; LAN via Lima, Peru; and Copa via Panama City. AeroGal (www.aerogal.com.ec) now also flies internationally, with routes to and from Miami, Bogotá and Medellín Colombia.
Travelers from Canada will need to go via the US with Air Canada, American Airlines, or Continental.
American Airlines
Quito Av.de los Shyris N35-174 y Suecia; tel: 02-299 5000
Guayaquil Policentro Mall, Avenida Del Periodista Juan Arzube y Calle 10. Tel: 04-259 8800
Avianca
Quito Av. Coruña 1311 and San Ignacio. Tel: 1-800-003 434, 02-290 3351
Guayaquil Av. Francisco de Orellana, Manzana 111. Tel: 1-800-003 434
Cuenca Av. Miguel Cordero y Av. Paucarbamba. Tel: 07-288-9068
Continental Airlines
Quito Av. 12 de Octubre 1830 and Cordero. Tel: 1-800-222 333
Guayaquil Av. 9 de Octubre and Malecón, Edificio Banco La Previsora, 25th Floor. Tel: 1-800-222 333
Cuenca Padre Aguirre 1096 and Mariscal Lamar. Tel: 1-800-222 333
Copa
Quito Av. República del Salvador 361 and Moscú. Tel: 02-226 9738
Guayaquil Av. 9 de Octubre and Malecón. Tel: 04-230 3000
Cuenca Miguel Cordero and Av Paucarbamba, Work Center Building. Tel: 07-284 2970
Delta Airlines
Quito Av. Los Shyris and Suecia Local 3, Edificio Renazzo Plaza. Tel: 02-333 1691
Guayaquil Hotel Hilton Colón, Av. Francisco de Orellana. Tel: 1-800-101 060
LAN
Quito Av. Naciones Unidades and Shyris. Tel: 1-800-101 075
Guayaquil Hotel Hilton Colón, Av. F. de Orellana. Tel: 1-800-101 075
TACA
Quito Av. República de El Salvador 1033 and Naciones Unidas. Tel: 1-800-008 222
Guayaquil. Pichincha 406 and Luque. Tel: 1-800-008 222
Cuenca Sucre 770 y Luis Cordero. Tel: 1-800-008 222
Flights from Europe
Iberia flies direct from Madrid daily. KLM flies between Quito and Amsterdam via Curaçao, five days a week, or go via the US or South America.
Iberia
Quito Av. Eloy Alfaro 939 and Amazonas. Tel: 02-222 9454
Guayaquil Av. 9 de Octubre 101 and Malecón. Tel: 04-256 1776
KLM
Quito Av. 12 de Octubre N26-97 and A. Lincoln. Tel: 02-396 6728
Guayaquil José Joaquín de Olmedo Airport. Tel: 04-216 9070
Flights from Australia, New Zealand, and Asia
Travelers can take an Aerolíneas Argentinas (www.aerolineas.com.ar) flight from Sydney via Auckland to Buenos Aires, with a connecting flight to Guayaquil; the LAN flight from Australia, also via Auckland to Santiago, then on to Ecuador; or fly to Los Angeles and take one of the several connecting flights from there.
Alternatively, American Airlines fly from Sydney to Los Angeles, from where you can fly to Miami for a connection to Guayaquil.
Air Travel Taxes
There is a 12 percent tax imposed on all air tickets bought within Ecuador. A departure tax payable at the airport in cash is levied on international flights from Ecuador: this is currently $40.80 from Quito and $30.16 from Guayaquil.
Getting to and from Airports
Mariscal Sucre International Airport (UIO) in Quito, tel: 02-294 4900, is located 8km (5 miles) north of the New Town. There are no luggage deposit boxes at the airport. Most of the large hotels have a shuttle service; otherwise a taxi to the New Town will cost about $6–8, and $8–10 to the Old Town.
The José Joaquín de Olmedo International Airport (GYE) is located 5km (3 miles) north of Guayaquil city center. If you already have a reservation, make arrangements with your hotel to pick you up. Otherwise, taxis marked “airport taxi” can be found to the left of the exit. There is no pre-pay stand, but the journey to the city center should not cost more than $6. There is a casa de cambio (bureau de change) at the airport as well as a small information office.
Cuenca’s airport is a five-minute walk beyond the bus terminal and is easily accessible by city bus or taxi.
Upstream from Esmeraldas, there is a bridge over the river at San Mateo which connects with General Rivadeneira Airport, 25km (16 miles) away for domestic flights. Taxis to the airport wait in front of the TAME office and will cost $5–6. Buses go to and from the Terminal Terrestre (Central Bus Terminal) every 30 minutes.
By Bus
It is common for backpackers to travel overland into Ecuador, crossing at either Huaquillas or Macará on the Peruvian border or Tulcán/Rumichaca on the Colombian side, although currently there are serious safety issues in this region due to increased drug-trafficking and the activities of illegal armed groups. At both borders, minibuses and trucks run between bus centers on both sides for a small fee. The borders are usually open from around 8am to 6pm. Be sure to get an entry stamp and tourist card.
Several companies run comfortable buses on the longer routes, including Panamericana Internacional, Ormeño, Rey Tours and Peruvian company Cruz del Sur, which run international services from Quito and Guayaquil to Lima.
By Road
To drive a private car across a border into Ecuador, you are required to have a Carnet de Passage en Douane (CDP), an international customs document. These are normally obtained through the automobile club of the country where the car is registered. Motorbike and bicycle riders just need to show relevant registration papers.
Getting Around
Until the 20th century, transportation and communications in Ecuador were poorly developed. Most people got around by mule or donkey until the railway network was developed. The road network has expanded considerably since World War II, and the main roads are generally quite good, although many have been badly affected by landslides and flooding and have dangerous potholes. Of the 38,000km (23,600 miles) of highways, about 18,000km (11,180 miles) are open all year and about 7,000km (4,350 miles) are paved.
By Car
Traveling by private car is generally more convenient in Ecuador than in other Andean countries, because the main roads are in a comparatively better state, the running costs are economical, and the country is safer than in neighboring republics.
Nevertheless, beware of bus drivers, who often go very fast, and make sure that your car has good ground clearance. As insurance and rental costs become more prohibitive and incidents of ambushes at night increase in certain regions, more travelers tend to opt for buses rather than driving themselves.
Car Rental Agencies
In addition to the locations listed below, all of the following agencies have branches at the international airports in Quito and Guayaquil.
Avis
Av. Amazonas and Passaje Amazonas, Quito. Tel: 02-244 0270.
Av. de las Américas, Centro Comercial Olímpico, Guayaquil. Tel: 04-216 9092
Budget
Av. Amazonas and Colón, Quito. Tel: 02-223 7026
Av. de las Américas 900 and Alejandro Andrade, Guayaquil. Tel: 04-228 4559.
Hertz
Panamericana Norte 9900 and Murialdo, Quito. Tel: 02-241 1677.
Av. de las Américas and E. Arboleda, Guayaquil. Tel: 04-228 0910.
Localiza
Av. de Amazonas and Río Topo, Quito. Tel: 02-600 2975.
Av. de las Americas and Calle Octava, Guayaquil. Tel: 04-602 5613
Car Rental
Car rental is as expensive as in Europe or in the United States. Charges start at about $55 a day, with mileage increments. Extra insurance costs may be charged, and most rental agencies prefer credit cards.
A valid driver’s license from your home country is usually accepted, but some rental companies require an international license. It is worth applying for one before you leave if you plan to hire a car.
It is often more economical and less stressful to hire a taxi for several hours, which will take you to remote areas or to another town: be sure to agree the costs beforehand.
Automobile Club
The Asociación Nacional Ecuatoriana de Turismo y Automobilismo (ANETA) (Avenida Eloy Alfaro 218 and Berlín; tel: 02-250 4961; www.aneta.org.ec) offers an emergency breakdown towing and repair service to members and offers discounts to members of the AAA from Canada or the US.
Taxis
Taxis are very cheap compared to the US and Western Europe, but meters are only used by taxi drivers in Quito, and often only on request. Tell the driver your destination and agree on a charge beforehand, or insist the taxi-metro (meter) is used. In Guayaquil, meters are installed by law but drivers do not use them: be sure to ascertain the fare beforehand, or you could be overcharged. In smaller towns, meters do not exist; at weekends and at night fares are 25–50 percent higher.
By Bus
Local Buses
Local buses run frequently and are inexpensive. Destinations are shown on the front of the vehicle. All the main towns and cities are served by urban bus lines. The buses are mostly small and usually extremely overcrowded, especially at peak hours. The large selectivo buses running in Quito’s New Town are a pleasant exception. Beware of pickpockets.
There is a smart trolley system operating between the north and south of Quito, but this, too, gets very crowded at peak hours. Pickpockets also work this network.
Since taxis are very cheap in Guayaquil, buses and colectivos are mostly avoided by foreign visitors, but busetas or minibuses are safe to ride. Servicio especial buses, marked with blue-and-white diagonal stripes, are slightly more expensive but relatively efficient. Take great care with taxis in Guayaquil, due to a spate of taxi-kidnappings of late. It is better to order one by phone from a company recommended by your hotel than to flag one down in the street.
If you want to get off a local bus, shout ¡baja! (down!) or ¡esquina! (corner!), when the driver will stop at the next corner.
Long-Distance Buses
Bus travel is not always comfortable, but the numerous companies connect all the main towns at frequent intervals, serve smaller localities, and the fares are incredibly low.
In general, buses leave from central bus terminals. The new, comfortable, luxury buses leave on time; regular buses may or may not. One can usually buy tickets one or two days in advance and choose the seat number; note that the front seats tend to have slightly more leg room than the back seats. During long holiday weekends or special fiestas, buses are generally booked up for several days in advance, so early booking is recommended.
Try to travel by daylight, as there are fewer road accidents and also less likelihood of being held up by bandits or armed gangs.
There are four types of bus available for long-distance journeys: small buses (busetas) for 22 passengers, which have cramped leg room and are not very comfortable; larger buses (buses), which have more space; luxury buses (autobuses de lujo), serving routes between major cities; and trucks with roofs, open sides, and wooden plank seats, called chivas or rancheros, which are found mainly around the coast.
Long-distance buses leave mainly from the Terminal Terrestre in the southern Villa Flora district, at Maldonado and Cumandá. There are about two dozen bus companies with offices at the terminal. It is worthwhile booking in advance. Take great care in this bus terminal, as it’s a well-known spot for theft and confidence tricksters. There are also private companies that operate more comfortable buses from terminals in the New Town.
There are many buses a day to major destinations, including Ambato (3 hours), Bahía de Caráquez (8 hours), Baños (3½ hours), Coca (12 hours), Cuenca (9–14 hours), Guaranda (5 hours), Guayaquil (8 hours), Lago Agrio (10 hours), Latacunga (2 hours), Loja (14–18 hours), Machala (11 hours), Manta (8 hours), Portoviejo (8 hours), Puyo (7 hours), Riobamba (4 hours), Santo Domingo (2.5 hours), Tena (9 hours), Esmeraldas (6 hours), Otavalo (2.5 hours), Ibarra (2.5 hours), and Tulcán (5.5 hours).
There are no direct buses to Colombia. For Peru, Peruvian company Ormeño Internacional (Los Shyris N34-432 and Portugal, opposite Parque la Carolina; tel: 02-246 0027; in Peru: 0051-01-427 5679) are one of the few to go direct from Quito to Lima. Otherwise, there are companies like Orellana (tel: 02-256 5299/254 6674) that run “international” buses to Lima, but this involves a change at the border. Ormeño Internacional also offers services to Buenos Aires, Santiago, and Lima. It is cheaper to take a bus to Huaquillas, cross the border, and take a taxi colectivo to Tumbes in Peru, where regular buses connect with Lima. Beware when crossing the border from Huaquillas: it has the unfortunate reputation of being one of South America’s worst border crossings.
Panamericana (Av. Colón and Reina Victoria; tel: 02-250 1585, 02-255 9427) operates a deluxe service from Quito to Huaquillas and other cities in Ecuador. Both Panamericana and Reytur offer services to Colombia, but this again involves changing buses at the border, and is not always the cheapest option.
Buses from Esmeraldas
There is no central bus terminal in Esmeraldas. Aerotaxi, the fastest line, leaves for Quito from the main plaza (journey time 5 hours, frequent departures); Panamericana has a luxury service to Quito once a day, leaving from Hotel Casino; Transportes Occidentales and Trans-Esmeraldas, Av. Piedrahita 200, operate slower buses (to Quito 7 hours, Santo Domingo 3.5 hours, Guayaquil 9 hours, Machala 12 hours); Cooperativa Sudamericana runs buses to Ambato (8 hours), Reina del Camino to Portoviejo (9 hours), and Bahía de Caráquez (8 hours).
Provincial buses leave from La Costenita, or the waterfront area (Atacames and Súa 1 hour, Muisné 3.5 hours). Frequent departures. Buses run also to La Tola (3 hours). The road is good until Río Verde; there is a combined bus/boat service to San Lorenzo.
Buses from Cuenca
All long-distance buses leave from the Terminal Terrestre on Avenida España, northwest of the city center. Destinations include Riobamba (5.5 hours), Ambato (7.5 hours), Quito (10.5 hours), Loja (5–6 hours), Guayaquil (4 hours), Macas (10 hours), and Gualaquiza (6 hours).
Buses from Guayaquil
The Terminal Terrestre is near the airport and the bridge over the Río Guayas, and all long-distance buses leave from here. Destinations are: Quito (8.5 hours), Cuenca (5 hours), Riobamba (5 hours), Santo Domingo de los Colorados (5 hours), Manta (3 hours), Esmeraldas (8 hours), Portoviejo (3.5 hours), Bahía de Caráquez (5.5 hours), Machala (3.5 hours), Huaquillas (5 hours), Ambato (6.5 hours), and Alausí (4 hours). There are also frequent buses to Salinas (2.5 hours) and Playas/General Villamil (2 hours). There is a shared-taxi service to Machala (2.5 hours) leaving from next door to the Hotel Rizzo, Downtown.
Passport Checks
On buses, always carry your passport with you. There are police checks on all the roads leading out of main towns, and you can get into serious trouble if you are unable to present your documents when requested.
By Rail
When the Guayaquil–Quito railway line was completed in 1908, it cut the travel time between the two cities from 12 days to 12 hours. Today the rail system is more of a tourist attraction than a commercial link, as much of the network has fallen into disrepair because of mudslides, flooding, and lack of government funding. There are still several train journeys available in Ecuador: most notably the Riobamba−Sibambe route, the Devil’s Nose section of which is one of the most spectacular train rides in the world, famous for its hair-raising switchback. The train from Riobamba to Sibambe departs on Tuesday, Friday, and Sunday at 6.30am.
Quito’s train station is 2km (1 mile) south of the center, on Avenida P. Vicente Maldonado near Llanganates (tel: 02-265 6144). Trains run from here to several destinations. For full schedules see www.trenecuador.com. Services go to Latacunga in the Andes, Boliche and Machachi (Thursday and Sunday) on Saturday and Sunday at 8am, returning at 6pm. Tickets cost $10 and can be bought in advance at Bolívar 443 and García Moreno (tel: 1-800-873 637) or on the day at the station. Tourist information offices in Quito, Ibarra, and other cities can also help with purchasing tickets.
Additionally, there is the “Tren de la Libertad” running between Ibarra and Salinas in the Andean highlands, with information available on the same website.
Metropolitan Touring operates its own Chiva Express service, a comfortable, converted bus with toilets, a bar, and space for 34 passengers. The Chiva Express (www.chivaexpress.com) runs one- and two-day tours departing from Quito.
Domestic Airlines
AeroGal Av. Amazonas 7797 and Juan Holguín, Quito, tel: 02-396 0600; Junin 440 and Córdova, Guayaquil, tel: 04-268 7566; www.aerogal.com.ec
TAME Av. Amazonas 1354 and Colón, Quito, tel: 02-396 6300; Av. Fco de Orellana, Hotel Colón, Guayaquil, tel: 04-269 2967; www.tame.com.ec
By Air
Air transportation is fairly well developed. The Oriente is the one area where airlines have virtually no competition from other forms of transport. There are many villages whose only contact with the rest of the country is by air; besides numerous small strips, 34 airports can handle bigger planes, some of them modern jet aircraft.
There are domestic flights between all the main cities. LAN, AeroGal, and TAME connect Quito, Guayaquil, and Cuenca by jet service, with several flights daily each way. Flying time between Guayaquil and Quito is about 30 minutes. TAME flies from Quito to Esmeraldas, Manta, Portoviejo, Tulcan, and Loja (via Guayaquil), and from Guayaquil to Machala. In the Amazon jungle Lago Agrio, Coca, and Macas are served.
There are military flights in the more remote Amazon areas but they are not generally available to foreign travelers. Air taxis (Cessnas or Bonanzas) can be rented. Small airlines’ offices are found at the Guayaquil and Quito airports.
Flights to the Galápagos
Flights to the Galápagos Islands are heavily booked, so you should confirm and reconfirm your seat and check in early at the airport, unless you have booked your cruise through an agency, in which case they will reconfirm for you.
TAME has two daily flights in the morning to Baltra, with connecting buses making the short trip to Puerto Ayora. Many cruises pick up their passengers directly at the airport and return them there. TAME and AeroGal both fly to San Cristóbal three times a week. Check carefully with the cruise operator which flight to book, as it can be quite difficult to travel between the islands.
All non-Ecuadorian travelers to the islands must pay a $100 entrance fee on arrival at the airport. Payment must be made in dollars and not by credit card. Keep the receipt: you may have to show it again.
There are also regular flights between some of the islands with Emetebe (tel: 05-252 0615; www.emetebe.com.ec/english), a local airline, subject to demand. You will be restricted to luggage of 13kg (30lb) or less (non-negotiable). There are flights three times a week between Baltra and Isabela, as well as between Baltra and San Cristóbal.
With the exception of flying to the Galápagos Islands (which can cost $550 Quito–Galápagos return), domestic flights are fairly inexpensive (a return flight Quito–Guayaquil is about $100−150). Passengers are required to show up one hour before the departure of domestic flights, for baggage handling and check-in procedures. Many flights give marvelous views of the snow-capped Andes, so it is worth getting a window seat. Seats are given on a first-come, first-served basis.
By Boat
It is sometimes possible to travel some of the Pacific coast by boat. Check at the local capitanía del puerto (harbormaster’s office) about boat departures (most often to Guayaquil and Manta).
Traveling by boat is the principal means of transport in the Amazon, and many lodges are only accessible by motorboat or canoe. The Manatee Amazon Explorer floating hotel offers a more luxurious way of visiting the area.
Cruises in the Galápagos
The Galápagos archipelago is almost entirely a national park, and no visitor is allowed to enter it without a qualified guide on an organized tour. There are a couple of ways that this can be done. Some travelers choose to take a series of different day trips from Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz to the islands nearest that island, but, while this is cheap, it is not very satisfying (tour operators on the island will offer these kind of trips for about $50−75 a day). The great majority of visitors go on cruises around the islands, taking at least three nights; the more, the better. If you are going to spend the cash to come all this way, it is a pity to miss out or cut corners on one of the world’s great travel experiences.
Large Cruises
For many, a trip on one of the largest cruisers is the most comfortable and convenient way to visit the islands. The Galápagos Explorer II, operated by Canodros, is the most luxurious of the boats touring the islands. Contact any travel agency that specializes in Latin America, or see www.canodros.com. The Santa Cruz, run by Metropolitan Touring, has all the comforts of a luxury liner, including excellent food. By traveling overnight, these cruisers can easily reach outer islands that smaller yachts sometimes struggle to get to. The going is smoother on a large ship as well.
Both boats are based in the Galápagos, taking around 90 passengers on three- or four-day cruises; one covers the northern islands, the other the southern. You can combine both trips to make a seven-day cruise. Passengers visit the islands in groups of 10 on motorboats (pangas) accompanied by English-speaking naturalist guides who all have university degrees in their fields.
The cost is about $400-550 per person per night on a twin-share basis (all inclusive, except for bar and air fare), depending on cabin and length of cruise.
Bookings for the Santa Cruz can be made at Metropolitan Touring in Quito or Guayaquil, or their US agents Adventure Associates (www.adventure-associates.com).
Smaller Yachts
Dozens of yachts carrying from eight to 20 people operate cruises around the islands. Most work out of Puerto Ayora, although a growing number are now based in Puerto Baquerizo Morena. The boats are categorized into five classes: luxury, first class, superior tourist, standard tourist, and economy class. Tours on them can be booked on the mainland from a number of agencies, or beforehand through a travel agency specializing in Latin America. Quasar Naútica, for example, offers a selection of luxury yachts. These trips are more costly than on the larger cruises, but are also more intimate and allow more time on the islands. One of the most reliable companies offering both luxury small yachts and tourist-class yachts is Enchanted Expeditions. They offer the Beluga, a luxury 16-person yacht and one cheaper option, the Cachalote.
Cheaper tours on small boats can also be arranged at places such as Galasam Galápagos Tours on 9 de Octubre 424 and Chile, Guayaquil, tel: 04-234 5446, 04-230 4488; www.galasam.com.ec. When booking in Quito or Guayaquil, expect to pay around $200 a day including food for a reasonable boat. Check with the South American Explorers Clubhouse in Quito for the latest reports on smaller operators to make sure you are not being ripped off.
Ecoventura operates a variety of cruises from three to seven nights, and can be booked in the US through Galápagos Network, 5805 Blue Lagoon Drive, Suite 160, Miami, FL 33126; tel: 305-262 6264; fax: 305-262 9609; www.ecoventura.com. One of the UK’s leading dive specialists, Scuba Safaris, tel: 0140-3752 480; www.scuba-safaris.com; have exclusive use of Galápagos Aggressor I and II.
Foreign Exchange
If you are flying to Quito or Guayaquil and straight on to the Galápagos Islands, and taking a tour on one of the large cruise ships, exchange facilities are available. Independent travelers can change foreign currency in Puerto Ayora, but at a poor rate, so bring whatever you need in dollars from the mainland.
Organizing Your Own Tour
There are many economy-class boats that can be booked in Quito quite cheaply or at the last minute. Dozens of backpackers turn up at Puerto Ayora and begin getting people together to charter a boat – if you look like a candidate, they are likely to stop you in the street and ask about your plans. The only drawback is that you need a few days to get the required number of people together and arrange a boat, so it’s not a good idea to try to set it up in a hurry.
Boats take 8 or 12 people, and the cheapest cost from $60–80 a day with all meals but excluding tips for the crew. However, if your budget allows, it is worth paying for a more expensive boat, as the cabins are likely to be bigger, the food better, and the guides more informed. The South American Explorers Club keeps lists of reports from travelers indicating which of the many boats are the best, and offers the following hints for travelers doing this:
1) Boat owners like to fill their boats to capacity. The group is usually expected to share the cost of any unsold passenger space.
2) When dealing directly with the boat owner, bargaining is expected.
3) Bottled drinks are not included in the cost of the cruise. Bring as much mineral water as you think you will need; it is sold at the Puerto Ayora supermarket (at the docks).
4) Boat travel to outer islands such as Española and Genovesa can be quite rough, especially from September to November.
5) Make sure the boats have enough sets of snorkeling gear. The water is cold from July to December and wetsuits are recommended.
Traveling between the Islands
INGALA (Instituto Nacional de Galápagos) has official inter-island passenger services between Santa Cruz, San Cristóbal, Isabela, and Floreana, as well as services between Puerto Ayora and San Cristóbal. The INGALA office in Puerto Ayora is next to the hospital, tel: 05-252 6189. In Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristóbal, it is on the road leading inland at the edge of the town, tel: 05-252 0497.
Alternatively, if you can be flexible, check with the capitanía del puerto (harbormaster’s office) for details of other boats, such as the converted cargo ship the Estrella de Mar. This travels from Isabela to Santa Cruz. The trip takes between six and seven hours. To move from Santa Cruz to Isabela or San Cristóbal you can also pay a private speedboat to take you to the other islands. Try to negotiate a price, especially if there are several of you.