general instructions
fabric preparation
An ongoing debate among quilters is whether or not to prewash fabric. Cheryl prefers the crispness from the sizing in the manufacturers’ processing and usually does not prewash her fabric. Paige, on the other hand, prewashes most everything because she doesn’t want any surprises from excess dyes or uneven shrinkage. When using a paper-backed fusible web for machine appliqué, manufacturers suggest prewashing your fabric. If you prewash some of your fabric, prewash it all.
Whether you prewash or not, be sure your fabric is pressed and free of wrinkles before you start cutting.
abbreviations and definitions
Yardages are based on fabric with a usable fabric width of 40˝. The width of fabric, or WOF, is measured from selvage to selvage.
Using precuts is a way to include a variety of prints in your projects without purchasing a large quantity of each. Manufacturers label precuts differently, but some examples are 5˝ charm squares and 10˝ precut squares. Fat quarters are 18˝ × 20˝. Fat eighths are sometimes cut 9˝ × 20˝ and sometimes 10˝ × 18˝, so pay careful attention to the pattern requirements and how the fat eighths are packaged.
directional prints
The patterns in this book were written for nondirectional prints and include directions for cutting and piecing that make the most efficient use of the fabric. If you decide to use a directional print, such as a stripe or a group of houses, you may need additional yardage beyond what is stated in the materials list. You may also need to alter the cutting or piecing instructions. We highly recommend making a test block to see what alterations might be necessary.
seam allowances
A scant ¼˝ seam allowance (a seam allowance that is a thread’s width smaller than ¼˝) is used for all projects in this book—except for piecing quilt backings, when a ½˝ seam allowance is recommended. It is a good idea to do a test seam before you begin sewing to ensure that your scant ¼˝ is accurate.
There is no need to backstitch seamlines where they will be crossed by another seam. It is helpful, however, to backstitch seams where they fall on the outer perimeter of the quilt top or backing.
pressing seams
First press the seams as sewn, right sides together. Then press the seams open or toward the darker fabric to prevent the darker fabric from showing through a lighter fabric. Both Cheryl and Paige prefer to press seams open when possible; they find that there is less distortion in the seams and the blocks lie flatter when pressed this way.
Press lightly in an up-and-down motion. Be especially careful when pressing bias edges, as they stretch easily.
With planning, seams in some blocks can be pressed in the opposite direction to the seams of adjacent fabric pieces or blocks, allowing the seams to nest together. The seams almost lock together, allowing for greater speed and accuracy in piecing.
making half-square triangles
Refer to the project instructions for the size of the squares.
1. With right sides together, pair 2 squares. Lightly draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the lighter square.
2. Sew a scant ¼˝ seam on each side of the line.
3. Cut on the drawn line.
4. Press open and trim to size.
fusible machine appliqué
Appliqué projects in this book use raw-edge fusible appliqué secured with a zigzag satin stitch. Choose the width and length of the zigzag satin stitch you prefer to use.
For an alternative raw-edge finish, use a straight stitch along the outside edges of the appliqué shapes. Other techniques such as needle-turn appliqué may also be used, but be sure to add a turn-under allowance to the appliqué patterns.
Using a lightweight paper-backed fusible web such as SoftFuse Premium (available from Shades Textiles) will reduce bulk in your finished project. The key to successful appliqué is practicing on a sample first.
Preparing and Fusing Appliqué Shapes
1. Transfer the appliqué patterns onto the paper-backed fusible web using 1 of the following 3 methods. Since the appliqué patterns in Cute as a Button and Petal Plus are symmetrical, it is not necessary to reverse the images.
Method A: Place the paper-backed fusible web over the appliqué pattern. Trace the design onto the smooth (paper) side of the fusible web the number of times required by the instructions, leaving at least a ½˝ space between the appliqué shapes.
Method B: To create repetitive shapes with greater accuracy, trace the appliqué pattern onto translucent template plastic and carefully cut out the shape using craft scissors. Trace around the plastic template onto the smooth (paper) side of the fusible web the number of times required by the instructions, leaving at least a ½˝ space between the appliqué shapes.
Method C: Use a fabric cutting system such as AccuQuilt GO! dies (accuquilt.com) to create the appliqué shapes in a fraction of the time. Apply fusible web to the back of the fabric before cutting the shapes. Skip to Step 5 if using this cutting method.
2. Roughly cut out the appliqué shapes, leaving between ⅛˝ to ¼˝ of fusible beyond the traced line.
3. Fuse the shapes to the wrong side of your appliqué fabric following the heat settings suggested by the manufacturer.
4. Cut out the appliqué shapes on the traced lines, and remove the paper backing.
5. Position the appliqué shapes onto your background fabric squares, and fuse in place following the heat settings suggested by the manufacturer.
6. Cut iron-on tear-away stabilizer a little bigger than your appliqué shape, and iron it to the back of your background fabric according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Preparing Your Machine for Appliqué
The following machine settings and adjustments contribute to creating beautiful appliqué stitches.
Set your machine for a zigzag satin stitch with a width of 2–3 mm and a length of 0.35–0.5 mm.
Reduce the machine’s top thread tension to ensure the bobbin thread does not show through on the top.
Switch the presser foot to an open-toe embroidery foot for better visibility.
Set your machine to needle down if it has the capability. This will aid in stitching smooth curves.
Fill your bobbin with a fine 60-weight polyester or bobbin thread.
Change to a new sharp needle compatible with your thread and fabric choices.
Stitching the Appliqué Shapes
1. Start stitching into the background fabric with your needle in the down position on the right and just beyond the appliqué shape. Keep the thread tails long and out of the way. The zigzag satin stitch should cover the raw edge of your appliqué shape, and the needle should enter the background fabric very close to the edge of the appliqué shape without fraying it.
Needle enters background fabric very close to appliqué shape; note that appliqué is visible using open-toe foot.
2. Stitch slowly, and strive for evenly spaced stitches perpendicular to the edge of your appliqué shape.
When pivoting for convex (outside) curves or outside corners, stop with the needle down on the outside of the appliqué shape. When pivoting for concave (inside) curves or inside corners, stop with the needle down on the inside of the appliqué shape.
Pivot points for inside and outside corners
3. Stop about ½˝ before your starting point, lift your presser foot, and adjust the beginning thread tail to stitch right over it with the remaining stitches. This avoids the need to bury the thread.
4. Stop stitching when you reach the beginning point. Again, leave long thread tails.
5. Snip the loose end of the beginning needle thread that has been anchored under the stitching. Pull the ending needle thread to the back by gently pulling the bobbin thread; a small loop of the needle thread will appear. Tie the loose threads together, and use a needle to bury them under the channel formed by the zigzag satin stitch.
6. Gently tear away the stabilizer, supporting the stitches as you tear.
7. Square up the blocks according to the pattern instructions, using your rotary mat and ruler.
foundation paper piecing
Paper piecing is a precise stitching method in which perfect points and nonstandard angles can be achieved that would otherwise be challenging with traditional piecing. The stitching is done in numerical order on the printed side of the foundation, with the fabric placed on the unprinted side of the foundation. The finished unit will be a mirror image of the printed pattern.
In paper piecing, each quilter has a different preference on the size of the fabric piece relative to the size of the paper-pieced block section. We strongly recommend that you first make one of each paper-pieced block before cutting large numbers of fabric pieces to see if the fabric sizes listed fit into your comfort zone.
Preparing Paper-Piecing Patterns
1. Copy each foundation the number of times required by the quilt pattern onto standard copy paper or foundation paper, such as Carol Doak’s Foundation Paper (by C&T Publishing). It is always a good idea to make 1 or 2 extra foundations in case of mistakes.
2. Trim the printed foundation paper, leaving a ½˝ margin outside the outer lines.
Paper Piecing
1. Reduce the machine’s stitch length to around 1.5 mm or 18 stitches per inch, and use a size 90/14 needle to make paper removal easier after the block is sewn.
2. Crease the seamline between segments 1 and 2 on the foundation paper. A piece of template plastic or a straightedge will aid in folding the paper accurately on what will be your first stitching line.
3. Place the fabrics for segments 1 and 2 right sides together on the unprinted side of the paper, oriented such that the wrong side of fabric 1 is touching the paper and extends beyond segment 1 at least ¼˝ all around. The edges of fabrics 1 and 2 should be parallel to the crease made in Step 2 and overhang by at least ¼˝. Audition fabric placement by holding the foundation paper up to a light source to be certain that segment 1 is covered and that once it is sewn and pressed, segment 2 will be completely covered by fabric 2. Pin in place.
Printed side of foundation paper
Unprinted side of foundation paper
4. Orient the foundation paper so the printed side is facing up and the fabrics are on the unprinted side of the paper. Sew on the printed seamline between segments 1 and 2. (Stitches are shown in red on the illustration for visibility.)
Sew on printed seamline.
5. Fold the paper again along the stitched line, and trim the seam allowance to ¼˝.
6. Open and press fabric 2 in place using a dry iron.
7. With the foundation paper printed side up, crease the seamline between segments 1 and 3 as you did in Step 2 . After the fold is made, the wrong side of fabric 1 should be visible and extend at least ¼˝. Using your ruler and rotary cutter, trim the seam allowance to ¼˝.
8. Turn the foundation paper to the unprinted side. Align fabric 3 right sides together with fabric 1, testing to make sure fabric 3 will cover area 3, as you did in Step 3.
9. Repeat Steps 4–8 in the same manner with fabric 3, and continue with the remaining fabrics in numerical order until the foundation is completely sewn.
10. Trim the block along the foundation’s outer lines, leaving the ¼˝ seam allowances intact.
Because you will be cutting through both fabric and paper when trimming foundations, it is best to have a dedicated rotary cutter and blade for paper so that you do not dull your blade for fabric cutting.
Sewing Together Paper-Pieced Units
1. Align the paper-pieced units together, matching the seams.
To help match seam intersections, stick a straight pin through the point where the seams should meet.
2. Sew the units together, aligning the edges. Press the seams open, as most paper-pieced blocks have bulky seams.
When sewing units together, baste the seam first using a basting stitch (2.8–3.5 mm), check seam alignment, and then sew again using the regular stitch length. This makes it easier to unsew, if need be.
3. Remove the foundation paper. The paper can be removed as soon as the blocks are complete, or you can wait until the quilt top is finished. We recommend removing the paper from the completed seams after each seam is sewn.