Sushi

Many of the essential ingredients needed for making sushi at home—Japanese-style rice, soy sauce, and wasabi, for example—are available in large supermarkets these days. More specialty sushi ingredients are easy to find in Japanese food stores and most have long shelf lives. I have suggested alternatives wherever possible.

Japanese-style rice

kome

Japanese-style short grain rice is essential for sushi. Its high starch content absorbs a lot of moisture, which gives it its characteristic stickiness when cooked. Japanese rice is harvested in the late fall, and new crop is labeled shinnmai—literally “new rice"—and is renowned for its delicate flavor. However, for sushi, such moist, soft new rice is disliked, and top sushi restaurants go a long way to secure the previous year’s drier, harder grains. Long grain rice, such as basmati or Thai Jasmine rice, is not suitable for making sushi, as it does not possess the necessary absorbency, nor does it become sticky. Genuine Japanese-grown rice has become easier to find in Japanese stores and via internet retailers, but the U.S. also produces excellent-quality Japanese-style rice.

Short grain japanese rice

Dried seaweed

nori

Nori is made from different types of Porphyra algae that are washed and spread thinly to dry on mesh sheets. Choose nori that is dark and tightly grained; the thinner and greener, the more inferior the quality. Store it in an airtight bag or container in a dark place.

NORI Sheets

These come in a standard size of 8 x 7in (20.5 x 19cm) and are usually sold in a pack of 10. The upper side (usually what’s showing) is smooth and shiny, while the underside is coarse and grainy. Nori has a mild, aromatic flavor and a paperlike quality that allows it to be used as an edible wrapping material for various styles of sushi. To revive a stale, limp nori sheet, hold it 6in (15cm) above a gentle gas flame for a few minutes, or until it becomes crisp and the aroma returns.

Package of nori sheets

Shredded Nori

Shredded nori makes a tasty and attractive garnish for scattered sushi. You can buy packages of preshredded nori sheets, but if you cannot find these, then stack a few nori sheets on top of each other and finely slice them using a sharp knife, or cut them using scissors. Avoid using a serrated knife to cut nori, which will tear the delicate sheets.

Preshredded nori

wasabi

This green horseradish is also known as namida, meaning tears, as it is fiercely pungent. Wasabi should not be used to prove one’s bravery, but eaten in very small quantities, it will enhance the flavor of the sushi. It is readily available as a powder and premixed in tubes.

Powdered wasabi

Widely available in supermarkets and Japanese stores, powdered wasabi has a long shelf life and retains its flavor well. Make a stiff paste by mixing 1 tsp wasabi powder with 1 tsp water. Let stand for 5–10 minutes before use to allow the flavors to develop. The paste can be molded into decorative shapes and used as a garnish.

▲ Mixing powdered wasabi

Reconstitute powdered wasabi with a little cold water and mix it thoroughly to make a paste. You can mold stiffer pastes into shapes.

Premixed tubes of wasabi

Although convenient to use, once opened, the wasabi paste you can buy premixed in tubes quickly loses its pungency and flavor. The texture of this paste is a little softer to make it easy to squeeze from the tube.

Premixed wasabi paste

Soy sauce

shōyu

This is arguably the most important seasoning in Japanese cooking. Made from fermented soybeans, wheat, and salt, there are different versions available. The dark variety is the most versatile and is used both in cooking and as a dipping sauce for sushi, while light soy sauce is used for cooking only. Tamari is also made from fermented soybeans, but it is wheat-free, thicker, and more fragrant. Strictly speaking, tamari is used for dipping. It can be a good option for those who are gluten intolerant, but always check the label first.

Pickled ginger

gari

Usually served on the corner of a sushi tray to accompany sushi, pink pickled ginger should be eaten a slice at a time. It cleanses the palate between mouthfuls and aids digestion. Although you can make your own, ready-made is normally of good quality. Once opened, it should be kept in the refrigerator.

Slices of pickled ginger

Rice vinegar

Pale gold in color, Japanese rice vinegar has a mild, slightly tart flavor and leaves a subtle aftertaste. It is an essential ingredient in sushi, not least because it is used to flavor the rice. Rice vinegar is a preservative and also has antibacterial properties. It is available in Japanese food stores and supermarkets, but cider vinegar or red wine vinegar diluted with a little water make adequate substitutes.

Su, or rice vinegar

Japanese rice wine

sake

The national alcoholic drink of Japan, sake is one of the best accompaniments to sushi and can be drunk hot or cold. It is an important ingredient in cooking, where it is used to tenderize meat and fish, and to enhance flavor. Dry sherry is a good substitute. For cooking purposes, buy sake labeled as ryori sake, or inexpensive drinking sake.

Ryori sake for cooking

Sweet rice wine

mirin

Also known as sweet sake, mirin is used strictly for cooking. It adds gloss and creates a well-rounded depth of flavor. If it is unavailable, use 1 tsp sugar for 1 tbsp mirin. Store in a cool, dark place after opening.

Mirin, or sweet sake

Dried gourd

kampyō

Kampyo is sold dried in long, thin strips. It is traditionally used as a filling for rolled sushi, chopped up as a topping for scattered sushi, and also makes a useful ribbon to tie parcels of stuffed sushi. It has a firm, almost chewy texture and takes on the flavor of its seasonings. It is available from Japanese food stores. Before use, it needs to be reconstituted in a lightly seasoned broth. Once prepared, kampyo will keep in the refrigerator in a sealed container for up to three days.

Dried strips of kampyo

HOW TO PREPARE DRIED GOURD

1 Wash 1oz (30g) kampyo in cold water using a scrubbing action. Add 2 tbsp salt and rub in the water until soft. Rinse and soak in water for 2 hours or overnight (check package instructions).

2 Drain, place in a saucepan with enough fresh water to cover, and simmer for 10–15 minutes. Add 2 cups dashi, 2 tbsp sugar, and 2 tbsp soy sauce, bring to a boil, then simmer for 10 minutes, or until the kampyo is golden. Allow to cool in the stock before cutting to desired lengths.

Dried shiitake mushrooms

shiitake

These intensely flavored mushrooms are used as a filling in thick roll sushi and as a versatile topping for scattered, pressed, and hand-formed sushi. They will keep for up to six months in a cool, dry place. They need to be reconstituted and seasoned before use, but when soaked, good-quality dried shiitake mushrooms are fleshy, plump, meaty tasting, and stronger in flavor than their fresh counterparts.

Dried shiitake mushroom

HOW TO SEASON SHIITAKE MUSHROOMS

Soak 1oz (30g) dried shiitake mushrooms in 1 cup hot water for about 20 minutes. Drain, reserving the soaking liquid, and cut off and discard the stems. Add the mushrooms to 1 cup dashi and the reserved liquid in a saucepan, and cook over a gentle heat for about 30 minutes, or until the liquid has reduced by half. Add 1 tbsp mirin, then remove from the heat and let cool in the liquid before using.

Toasted sesame seeds

iri goma

Both black and white sesame seeds are available pretoasted from Japanese food stores, but their nutty flavor tends to fade. To revive their flavor, dry-toast them in a pan over a gentle heat for 1–2 minutes; keep them moving to prevent burning, which makes them bitter.

Black and white toasted sesame seeds

Kelp

konbu or kombu

Usually labeled “kombu” in the English-speaking world, this seaweed is one of the most important ingredients in Japanese cuisine, essential for making dashi stock, as well as numerous dishes and preserves. There are 10 species of kombu found in the cold waters off the coast of Hokkaido island, in northern Japan. Once harvested in summer, it is dried on the beach in the sun, cut, and folded into manageable lengths. It contains a high level of natural monosodium glutamate—the key element of umami, the fifth taste. Do not wash it, but wipe it lightly with a clean, damp cloth before use. Its shelf life is almost indefinite if you keep it in a dry, dark cupboard.

Sheets of kombu

Bonito flakes

katsuo bushi

These wood shaving–like flakes are one of the two essential ingredients of dashi, or Japanese stock (the other is kombu). They are made from dried, smoked, and matured fillet of bonito fish and are available in a ready-to-use shaved form. Bonito flakes have a characteristic deep, smoky taste and aroma, and can be used as a garnish or topping, as well as for making dashi stock.

Dried bonito flakes