POULTRY + MEAT

CHICKEN LEG
+
APPLE
+
SHALLOT

Gamey-tasting birds take kindly to fruit with well-proportioned measures of acid and sugar, and to the sharp sweetness of alliums. Dark chicken meat is at the lower end of the gamey spectrum, so a less acidic fruit—apple—and a moderately tame allium—shallot—flatter it.

CHICKEN LEG

APPLE

SHALLOT

CHARACTER

Earthy, meaty, moist

Sweet, mild, juicy

Concentrated, mild, sweet

SUBSTITUTE

Duck, goose, turkey leg

Quince, stone fruit, figs, dried fruit

Yellow onion

TIP

A chicken leg (aka leg quarter) comprises the drum and thigh of the bird.

The peel of an apple is good for you. Remove it only for aesthetic or texture-related reasons.

For easier peeling, cover shallots with boiling water for 5 minutes before trimming their bases.

COMPLEMENTS

Stone fruit, dried fruit, onions, cabbage, root vegetables, mushrooms, pumpkin, chestnuts, sausage, bacon, red wine

Endive, fennel, cabbage, carrots, beets, turnips, potatoes, prunes, maple syrup, honey, chicken livers, game birds, pork

Balsamic vinegar, stone fruit, fish, duck, beef

A CHICKEN IN EVERY POT

In the Alsace region of France, there’s a specialty called baeckeoffe (“baker oven”), a peasant stew of wine-marinated meats combined with vegetables, potatoes, herbs, and spices that’s placed in an earthenware vessel, sealed with a flour-paste-like dough, and slow-cooked in the oven. When I tried it for the first time, it had been made with chicken and tasted like someone was giving me a snuggly bear hug. Meanwhile, in Central Asia, you’ll find equally cosseting one-pot dinners of meat simmered with fruit. I drew on both specialties to devise a diversely spiced, heartwarming stew of my own. I like to serve it with toasted crusty bread and a fresh green salad. Note that the bird needs to marinate for at least 12 hours before heading to its pot.

serves 6

8 large shallots, chopped (about 2½ cups)

2 large carrots, peeled and chopped (about 1 cup)

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon whole juniper berries (see Cooking Note)

½ cinnamon stick

2 dried bay leaves

2½ teaspoons fine sea salt, plus more to taste

¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus more for garnish

1 (750 ml) bottle dry white wine (I like Riesling)

6 chicken legs

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces (about 5 cups)

5 pounds apples, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces (4 heaping cups)

1½ cups chicken stock

In a large bowl, combine the shallots, carrots, garlic, turmeric, paprika, juniper berries, cinnamon, bay leaves, salt, pepper, parsley, and white wine. Add the chicken, turning to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours.

When you’re ready to cook the chicken, preheat the oven to 350°F.

Strain the marinade, reserving it, and separate the chicken from the vegetables. Return the cinnamon stick and bay leaves to the marinade.

In a large Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Pat the chicken dry and, when the oil is shimmering, add the chicken and cook, flipping it halfway through, until brown on both sides, about 15 minutes total. Transfer the chicken to a plate. Add the vegetables from the marinade to the pot and sauté until they’ve taken on some color, 12 to 15 minutes.

Return the chicken to the pot, layering it with the potatoes and apples. Add the stock and 1 cup of the reserved marinade along with the bay leaves and cinnamon stick. Let the liquid come to a boil. Cover and transfer the pot to the oven. Roast the chicken until it’s cooked through and tender, the apples are soft, and the potatoes are fork-tender, about 40 minutes.

Remove the pot from the oven. Stir the contents, incorporating the vegetables up from the bottom. Discard the bay leaves and cinnamon stick. Let cool for 10 minutes, then garnish with parsley. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

COOKING NOTE Avoid the juniper berries when serving and caution others against eating them. They lend incredible flavor but eaten whole taste bitter.

CHRISTINE’S CHICKEN

WITH ROASTED APPLES & SHALLOTS

My mother had a fancy upbringing, complete with a revolving door of cooks. One was a woman named Christine, a soap-opera fanatic who excelled at desserts and always wore a nurse’s cap. She served an especially memorable crispy Parmesan-and-bread-crumb-coated chicken. Sadly, her tenure ended when it was discovered she’d hidden a suitcase in a tree, containing items she’d stolen from the family. Years later, Mom found a similar poultry preparation in a vintage English cookbook and adapted it to make what we now call Christine’s Chicken with roasted pears. This is my take on it. To start, you’ll need to leave your seasoned chicken to sit overnight or longer.

serves 4 to 6

CHICKEN

6 chicken legs

Fine sea salt to taste

¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1¼ cups grated Parmesan cheese

1½ cups bread crumbs

2 cloves garlic, crushed

2 tablespoons (2 ounces) chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted

APPLES + SHALLOTS

1 cup packed dark brown sugar

6 whole cloves

3 apples, halved and cored (I like Honeycrisp)

⅜ teaspoon ground cinnamon

6 shallots, peeled

¼ teaspoon salt

2½ tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into ¼-inch cubes

Prep the chicken. When salting your bird, assume about ¾ teaspoon per pound. Season the chicken legs with fine sea salt and ¼ teaspoon of the pepper and let them rest in a covered container or zip-top bag in the refrigerator overnight or for up to 2 days.

The next day, preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a roasting pan and a baking sheet each with aluminum foil.

Prepare the apples and shallots. In a small saucepan, bring the brown sugar and ¾ cup water to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook for 5 minutes, until the sugar is melted and incorporated.

Stick one clove in each apple half. Sprinkle them with the cinnamon, then rub it in. Place the spiced apples and the shallots in the prepared roasting pan and sprinkle them with the salt. Pour the molten brown sugar over the apples and shallots. Dot the mixture with the butter. Set aside.

In a shallow bowl, combine the Parmesan, bread crumbs, remaining ½ teaspoon pepper, the garlic, and parsley.

Place the melted butter in a medium bowl. Pat the chicken dry. Dip each chicken leg in the butter to coat, then into the crumb mixture, turning to coat. Place the chicken, skin-side down, on the prepared baking sheet. Pat some of the remaining crumb mixture on top of any pieces that need it. Reserve the remaining melted butter and crumb mixture.

Place the apples and shallots and the chicken in the oven to roast. After 40 minutes, baste the chicken with the reserved melted butter every 20 minutes. When the top of the chicken is golden and crispy, after 50 to 60 minutes, turn each piece over and, careful not to burn your fingers, pat the additional crumb mixture on the skin side to coat it amply. Continue to roast the chicken until the skin side is deep golden brown and the meat is cooked through. Remove from the oven, tent with foil, and let it rest for 15 minutes.

At the same time, spoon the sugar liquid in the roasting pan over the fruit and shallots every 20 minutes until they’re nicely caramelized and the fruit is knife tender, 80 to 90 minutes. Transfer the apples to a plate, leaving the shallots in the roasting pan. Return the pan to the oven, increase the temperature to 475°F, and continue to cook the shallots until they are well caramelized and syrupy, about 10 minutes. (The chicken will still be in the oven at this point and may finish cooking a few minutes before the shallots.) Remove the shallots from the oven. Transfer the apples back to the roasting pan, turning them to coat in the syrup.

Serve the apples and shallots with the chicken, spooning the syrup over the chicken and placing some of the fallen crumb mixture on the apples.

SAVORY APPLE TARTE TATIN

As a spoiled little girl, when I was introduced to tarte tatin—the upside-down, flaky-crusted French dessert with its burnished apples shining in their buttery burnt-sugar coating—I greedily demanded more, Veruca Salt–style. Learning you can tatin-ize other fruit (tomatoes, even!) set my heart aflutter. I once saw a recipe for the upside-down tart made with shallots. So why not caramelize them with the apples and make a meal of it? Confit the chicken (plus garlic) just as you would duck (that is, cook it slowly, in lots of fat), pile the shredded meat on the base, and cover it with puff pastry (store-bought is A-OK). Lucky you, there will be leftover caramelized garlic for spreading onto toast or stirring into mashed potatoes.

serves 4 as a main course or 6 as an appetizer

2 chicken legs

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 cups extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed

1 sprig fresh thyme, plus more leaves to taste

1 head of garlic, unpeeled, halved crosswise

3 fresh sage leaves, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, plus more for greasing

3 apples, peeled, cored, quartered, and cut into ½-inch slices (4 cups; I like Pink Lady)

6 to 8 shallots, cut lengthwise into ½-inch-wide slices (2 cups)

1 tablespoon maple syrup

1½ tablespoons balsamic vinegar

1 sheet frozen puff pastry (about ½ pound), thawed (see Cooking Note)

All-purpose flour, for dusting

Flake salt to finish (optional)

Preheat the oven to 300ºF.

Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Place the chicken in a medium Dutch oven and cover completely with the olive oil. Add the thyme sprig and garlic. Place over medium-high heat and cook just until bubbles start to form on the surface of the oil, about 3 minutes.

Transfer the pan to the oven. Cook until the meat can be easily pierced with a knife, about 2 hours. As it cooks, the oil should just barely bubble. Check it occasionally, adjusting the oven temperature as needed.

Let cool slightly, then strain the chicken, reserving the oil and caramelized garlic. Wrapped in plastic and placed in a sealed container, the meat can be refrigerated for up to 5 days. Stored in a sealed container, the reserved oil can be refrigerated for up to a week.

Increase the oven temperature to 400ºF, placing a rack in the upper third.

Scrape the skin and any visible fat from the chicken legs and discard it. Remove all the meat from the bones and discard the bones. Roughly chop the meat and transfer it to a medium bowl. Add a few of the reserved caramelized garlic cloves, smashing them with a fork and incorporating them into the chicken (I use about 6). Taste and adjust for salt and pepper as needed. Add the sage and stir to combine.

Heat a large cast-iron skillet on the stove, gradually increasing the heat from low to medium. Add 2 tablespoons reserved confit oil and the butter. When the butter has melted and combined with the oil, sauté the apples, working in batches as needed, stirring occasionally, until lightly brown and slightly soft, about 12 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the apples from the pan.

Add another tablespoon of the reserved confit oil to the pan, then add the shallots. Reduce the heat to medium-low and sauté, stirring occasionally but carefully to leave them intact, until softened and beginning to caramelize, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, and transfer to a cutting board.

Generously grease a 9-inch round cake pan with butter. Drizzle the pan with the maple syrup and balsamic vinegar. Alternate the cooked apple slices and shallot slices in the pan, arranging them in tight concentric circles. Scatter thyme leaves over the surface, then top with the chicken. Drizzle 2 more tablespoons of the reserved confit oil over the chicken.

Remove the thawed pastry dough from the refrigerator and let it sit on a lightly floured surface for 5 minutes. Carefully unfold it, then, using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll out the puff pastry to a ⅛-inch thickness. Trim it so it’s a little larger than the cake pan. Brush the excess flour off the dough, then place it over the pan, gently pressing it around the chicken as you tuck the edges of the pastry into the pan. Use a fork to prick the pastry all over.

Bake until the pastry is golden and crisp, about 30 minutes. Remove the tart from the oven and wait 5 minutes before setting a plate upside down on the top of the pan. Carefully invert the tart onto the plate and, if you’d like, finish with a sprinkling of flake salt. Slice and serve.

COOKING NOTE Defrost frozen puff pastry in the refrigerator overnight. My preferred store-bought brand is Dufour, but Pepperidge Farm is more widely available and always reliable. Alternatively, buy a sheet or two off your neighborhood bakery.

CHICKEN BREAST
+
MOZZARELLA
+
ARUGULA

Chicken breasts may seem depressingly straightforward, when really they’re blank canvases ready to be transformed into something desirable. Mozzarella is the chicken breast of cheese. That means it’s also capable of great change. Their shared neutrality makes them compatible with each other and with livelier personalities, like peppery arugula.

CHICKEN BREAST

MOZZARELLA

ARUGULA

CHARACTER

Neutral, lean, succulent

Milky, bland, highly meltable

Peppery, nutty, leafy

SUBSTITUTE

Turkey breast, veal, pork loin, extra-firm tofu, eggplant, cauliflower, mushrooms

Provolone, scamorza, burrata, stracciatella, halloumi, smoked mozzarella

Dandelion greens, mustard greens, watercress, chicories, spinach, kale

TIP

To defrost frozen chicken breasts, transfer them to the fridge for at least 5 hours.

Fresh is best, especially for raw applications, but processed low-moisture mozzarella is fine for melty toppings.

Stir leaves through cool water to clean, then transfer them to a salad spinner or paper towels to dry.

COMPLEMENTS

Mustard, chutney, curry (paste or powder), alliums, nightshades, capers, white wine, Parmesan, goat cheese, prosciutto

Balsamic, onions, mushrooms, nightshades, sun-dried tomatoes, olives, peaches, plums, bread, nuts, anchovies, sausage, veal

Balsamic vinegar, lemon, Parmesan, ricotta, goat cheese, nuts, roasted or grilled pork, steak

CHICKEN SALAD GOMA-AE

Next time you visit your local sushi spot, order the goma-ae. It’s a blanched vegetable appetizer named for its sesame dressing, which has a smidgeon of sweetness and tastes a little like—but better than—peanut sauce. Although spinach tends to be the bed for the topping, green beans sometimes provide a surface. Here I’ve gone and done it with arugula, and I’ve turned it into a chicken salad. You just want to wilt the leaves; overcooking them will result in some serious acridity, as opposed to the palatable bitterness that makes arugula my number one salad green.

serves 4

4 scallions, trimmed and cut into thirds

4 pounds skin-on, bone-in chicken breasts (2 or 3 whole breasts)

Boiling water

1½ pounds arugula leaves

1 pound fresh mozzarella, sliced into 1 × ½-inch strips

1 medium cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut into ¼-inch-thick half-moons

¼ cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons sugar

½ cup tahini

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons white sesame seeds, toasted

½ teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

Fill a large, tight-lidded Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot two-thirds full with cold water. Add the scallions, cover, and bring to a rolling boil. Turn off the heat and add the chicken—it should be completely submerged by 2 inches. If there’s not enough water in the pot, add more boiling water as needed. Cover the pot and let the chicken sit on the stove, with the heat off, until its flesh is white and its juices run clear, about 2 hours. If it’s not quite done, cover the pot again and bring to a simmer, cooking the chicken for 10 minutes more. Transfer to a plate and let cool.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt as you would for pasta. Prepare a large bowl of ice. Add a third of the arugula to the boiling water and blanch for 10 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, quickly transfer the arugula to a strainer, keeping the water in the pot boiling. Immediately plunge the strainer into the bowl of ice and run very cold water over the leaves to shock them. Keeping the arugula in the strainer, drain the leaves, transfer to paper towels, and squeeze dry. Transfer the blanched arugula to a large bowl, using your fingers to separate it. Repeat twice with the remaining arugula.

When the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove and discard the bones, skin, and fat. Pat the meat dry with paper towels, then shred it into small bite-size pieces and add it to the bowl with the arugula. Toss to combine. Add the mozzarella and cucumber to the salad and toss again to incorporate all the ingredients.

Make the dressing. In a medium bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, sugar, and tahini. Slowly whisk in ¼ cup water to thin out the sauce. Add the toasted sesame seeds and whisk to incorporate.

Pour one-third of the dressing into the base of a large serving bowl. Add the salad and toss to incorporate. Continuing to toss, stream in another third of the dressing so the salad is evenly coated. Add more dressing as desired. Season with the salt. Serve at room temperature.

CHICKEN PAILLARD & ARUGULA SALAD

WITH MARINATED MOZZARELLA

My brother John’s “usual” is a grilled chicken sandwich from his local deli. I wanted to convince him he could cook a vastly improved, undemanding chicken dish himself, should he have a notion to try. An incredibly crisp-skinned, succulent piece of poultry was the goal; together we achieved it. It involves a buttermilk bath and hot-hot-hot cast-iron skillet that starts on the stove and moves to the oven. He likes his with roasted broccoli. I prefer mine with a simple salad of arugula, sun-dried tomatoes, mozzarella, and a vinaigrette made from the marinade used to flavor the cheese. When you get the notion, give yourself at least a 12-hour lead to marinate the chicken, and allot 4 hours for steeping the mozzarella.

serves 4

CHICKEN

4 skin-on boneless chicken breast halves (10 to 12 ounces each; see Cooking Notes)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon lemon zest

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste

2 cups buttermilk

Wondra or all-purpose flour, for dusting (see Cooking Notes)

6 tablespoons neutral oil

SALAD

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed

1 large clove garlic, minced

¼ teaspoon dried red chili flakes

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh oregano leaves

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh basil leaves

1 teaspoon coarse sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

8 ounces fresh water-packed ciliegine or bocconcini (see Cooking Notes), drained

½ cup dry sun-dried tomatoes

5 ounces wild or baby arugula

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Prepare the chicken. Place the chicken between two pieces of plastic wrap and pound it until the breasts are about ½ inch thick. Place 2 chicken breasts each into two large resealable plastic bags.

Whisk together the olive oil, lemon zest and juice, black pepper, and kosher salt in a large bowl. Continuing to whisk, add the buttermilk. Evenly divide the marinade between the two bags. Seal each and refrigerate the chicken for 12 to 24 hours, turning a few times throughout.

Meanwhile, marinate the mozzarella for the salad. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a small skillet over medium heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the garlic and chili flakes, stirring just until the garlic starts to color, about 2 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the oregano, basil, ½ teaspoon of the sea salt, and ¼ teaspoon of the black pepper. Let sit for about 5 minutes to cool slightly.

Pack the mozzarella balls into a 16-ounce lidded glass jar or sealed plastic container. Pour the prepared oil over them. Add the remaining ½ cup olive oil to cover, using more if needed, seal the jar, and turn it a few times to coat the cheese. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.

Before you are ready to cook the chicken, soak the sun-dried tomatoes in a small bowl filled with warm water until reconstituted, about 1 hour. Drain, then roughly chop them.

Preheat the oven to 400ºF.

Remove the chicken breasts from the marinade and pat them dry with paper towels. Dust the skin-side of each breast with Wondra flour (about 1 tablespoon total), shaking off any excess, and set the chicken on a plate.

Heat a large cast-iron skillet on the stove, gradually increasing the heat from low to medium-high. Add 3 tablespoons of the neutral oil. When the oil is shimmering, add 2 chicken breasts, skin-side down. Cook, occasionally pressing with a spatula, until browned, 5 to 7 minutes.

Transfer the skillet to the oven, roasting the chicken until it’s just cooked through and its juices run clear, 8 to 12 minutes. Remove the skillet from the oven and flip the breasts over. Sprinkle each with a pinch of kosher salt and black pepper. Let them sit in the skillet for 1 minute, then transfer to a plate and cover with foil. Repeat with the remaining 3 tablespoons neutral oil and chicken breasts.

Meanwhile, make the salad. In a large bowl, season the arugula with the remaining ½ teaspoon sea salt and ¼ teaspoon black pepper, tossing to incorporate. Add the sun-dried tomatoes and toss again to combine. Dress the salad with the lemon juice and 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon of the flavored oil from the mozzarella, tossing to coat. Add about half of the mozzarella. Save the remaining cheese in its marinade for another use. Sealed in an airtight container, both will keep for up to a week in the fridge; bring to room temperature before serving.

To serve the salad and chicken separately, family-style, toss the arugula in a large serving bowl and place the chicken on a platter. To present it as one dish, place the chicken breasts on a large platter, then top or surround them with the salad. Alternatively, you can plate the meals individually.

COOKING NOTES

POTATO-CHIP CRUSTED CHICKEN

WITH ARUGULA PESTO

Something we never admit but all know is true: Even bad chicken Parmigiana is good. We totally eat—and love—it cold, same as pizza. It can be made with suck-o tomato sauce or questionable “cheese” that looks like baked Shrinky Dinks, and still we accept it. Imagine what properly melty mozzarella-blanketed chicken Parmigiana could be under the best circumstances—coated with potato chips, smeared with a bright electric-green sauce—and you should arrive at this tour de force. Try it in sub form on a long, thick roll, slapped with extra pesto, topped with arugula leaves, and hit with a squeeze of lemon. Or, bypass the broiler and eat the chicken without the cheese or pesto, enjoying the maximum crunch from the chips.

serves 4

1½ cups packed fresh arugula

½ cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

1 medium clove garlic, roughly chopped

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons toasted hazelnuts, roughly chopped

2 ounces Parmesan cheese, coarsely grated (scant ¾ cup)

¼ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

¼ cup whole milk

1½ cups finely crushed kettle-style potato chips

¾ teaspoon cayenne pepper

4 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves (8 to 10 ounces each)

8 (¼-inch-thick) slices fresh unsalted mozzarella

In a food processor, pulse together the arugula, parsley, garlic, hazelnuts, Parmesan, and salt to form a paste, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Slowly stream in the olive oil as you continue pulsing to form a smooth, bright sauce. Taste and adjust for salt as needed. (See How to Pesto, this page.)

Place a baking rack on a parchment-lined baking sheet and coat the rack with cooking spray. Set a rack in the oven so that when your chicken is raised on the baking rack, it’s 2 or 3 inches away from the broiler. Preheat the oven to 400°F.

Spread ¼ cup flour on a large plate and season with a pinch each of salt and black pepper. Add the milk to a medium bowl and season with a pinch each of salt and black pepper. Fill a separate medium bowl with the potato chip crumbs, the remaining 1 tablespoon flour, and the cayenne. Stir to combine.

Season each chicken breast on both sides with a pinch each of salt and black pepper. One at a time, dip each breast in the seasoned flour to coat, shaking off any excess, then dunk in the milk, letting any excess drip off, and roll through the potato-chip mixture, pressing to coat. Place on the prepared baking rack. Pat any remaining potato-chip coating on top of the breasts.

Bake the chicken breasts until their crusts are golden, they’re just cooked through, and their juices run clear, 18 to 20 minutes. Remove the chicken from the oven and turn on the broiler.

Cover each breast with 2 pieces of mozzarella. Return the chicken to the oven and broil until the cheese is bubbling and just beginning to brown, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a large serving platter and let rest for 5 minutes. Gently smear a few spoonfuls of the pesto over each breast and serve.

GROUND BEEF
+
EGGPLANT
+
PARSNIP

Ground beef is easily incorporated into potato-topped casseroles, formed into burgers served with fries, stuffed into vegetables like fleshy eggplant, or stir-fried with said same. A three-in-one would be perfectly predictable. Stet the aubergine and meat, swap the potato for sweeter parsnip, and it’s still perfect, but without the predictability.

GROUND BEEF

EGGPLANT

PARSNIP

CHARACTER

Neutral, versatile, crumbly

Fleshy, meaty, dense

Sweet, starchy, firm

SUBSTITUTE

Any other ground meat or poultry, ground tofu, loose sausage, chopped mushrooms

Bell peppers, mushrooms, extra-firm tofu

Potato, salsify, carrot, rutabaga, turnip, parsley root, celery root, sunchoke

TIP

Optimal lean-to-fat burger ratio is 70/30. Beef marked “lean” will range from 73/27 to 96/4.

Salt eggplant before frying it; otherwise, doing so is optional (and possibly useless).

Shaved thin using a mandoline or peeler, it can be enjoyed raw in salads.

COMPLEMENTS

Alliums, tomatoes, mushrooms, spinach, potatoes, beef stock, red wine, chili peppers, raisins, pine nuts, cheese

Tomatoes, onions, garlic, miso, vinegar, sesame, pine nuts, feta, goat cheese, yogurt, shrimp, lamb, pork

Apples, pears, sweet potato, winter squash, coconut, dates, chestnuts, hazelnuts, pistachios, walnuts, Parmesan, lamb, bacon

NYC SHEPHERD’S MOUSSAKA

Some days for lunch, my grade-school cafeteria served shepherd’s pie, with a stiff-crusted brick of mashed potatoes on top and a gravy-thick brown sludge of ground beef with frozen peas and carrots beneath. Those were not good days. And that was not proper shepherd’s pie. In Britain, you can only call it by that name if it’s made with lamb, and it can be quite good. Greece has a ground-lamb bake of its own: moussaka. It’s a layering of fried eggplant, meat, and a crown of béchamel, and it can be great. I’ve engineered a Greco-Anglo fusion with ground beef and a parsnip topping you can make a day ahead. It’s the best of both countries.

serves 4 to 6

1 cup plus 1½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

3 dried bay leaves

2 allspice berries

1 large yellow onion, finely chopped

1 pound ground beef

1 (14-ounce) can whole peeled tomatoes

2 tablespoons tomato paste

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon, plus more for dusting

Pinch of ground cloves

1½ teaspoons red wine vinegar

½ teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 pound parsnips, peeled and sliced about ⅛ inch thick

½ cup heavy cream

½ cup whole milk

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter

¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg

1½ large eggplants (about 2¼ pounds total), sliced into ¼-inch-thick rounds

4 tablespoons grated Gruyère cheese

4 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

Make the meat sauce. Heat 1½ tablespoons of the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the bay leaves, allspice, and onion. Cook until the onion is soft, about 5 minutes. Add the ground beef and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until browned and all the liquid has evaporated, about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, add the tomatoes and their juices to a medium bowl and, using your hands, break them down completely.

Add the tomato paste, ½ teaspoon cinnamon, and a pinch of ground cloves to the ground beef. Cook for 2 minutes to caramelize the paste and intensify the flavors. Add the vinegar, sugar, ½ teaspoon of the salt, half the crushed tomatoes (save the rest for another use), and 1 cup water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and partially cover the pan, cooking until almost all of the liquid has evaporated, about 1 hour 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat. Discard the bay leaves and allspice berries. Season with the pepper. Taste and adjust for salt as needed.

While the meat sauce is reducing, make the parsnip puree. Bring the parsnips, cream, milk, and butter to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and gently simmer, stirring occasionally, until the parsnips are very soft, 20 to 25 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook until the liquid has reduced by half, about 5 minutes more. Stir in the remaining ½ teaspoon salt and the nutmeg. Transfer the mixture to a blender and puree until smooth, or use an immersion blender in the saucepan. Set aside to cool. This can be made a day ahead and refrigerated in a sealed container. Bring to room temperature before using.

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Salt the eggplant (see Cooking Note). Rinse the slices and pat them dry with paper towels. Dust with cinnamon.

Heat the remaining 1 cup oil in a large cast-iron skillet on the stove, gradually increasing the heat from low to medium-high. When the oil is shimmering, add the eggplant, and, working in batches as needed, fry the eggplant until golden brown, about 10 minutes, flipping it halfway through. Transfer the eggplant to paper towels to drain. Wipe out the skillet. Let the pan sit for a few minutes until it’s cool enough to handle.

Spread half the parsnip puree in the bottom of the skillet and sprinkle 2 tablespoons each Gruyère and Parmesan over it. Spoon the meat sauce over the puree, spreading it to the edge in an even layer. Lay the eggplant on top, overlapping the slices to cover the surface. Spread the rest of the parsnip puree over the eggplant, and sprinkle the remaining cheese on top. Bake until the edges are browned and the cheese is melted, 30 minutes. Let cool for 15 minutes.

Use a sharp knife to cut each portion, loosening it from the edge of the pan, then, carefully, slide a spatula under the section to pull it out and gently transfer it to the plate so the soft moussaka retains its shape.

COOKING NOTE To salt the eggplant, place the slices in a colander set on a plate or in the sink to catch any draining liquid and generously sprinkle with kosher salt (about 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon total). Let the eggplant sit for 30 minutes. This will leach out excess liquid.

EGGPLANT-BEEF BURGERS

WITH PARSNIP RELISH

Sadly, for many home cooks, outdoor grilling and the charred burgers it enables are an impossible dream. But I had a thought: could you simulate that smoky, blackened experience with scorch-skinned eggplant? Anyone who has prepared baba ghanoush, the Levantine dip made from that vegetable, knows how to singe its purple skin over a burner (or under a broiler). I took my flame-darkened aubergine and mixed it into my ground beef. Then I buried cooling, salty feta in each patty. Derived from spicy Southeast Asian sambals, parsnip relish is an upgrade from ketchup; it can jazz up any burger, hot dog, or deli sandwich, and accompany meat or fish that has been grilled—or pan-seared or roasted. Because who needs a grill anyway?

makes 4

PARSNIP RELISH

3 medium parsnips (1 pound), peeled and grated

2 shallots, thinly sliced

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 teaspoons sea salt

½ cup sugar

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1½ teaspoons dried red chili flakes

¼ cup apple cider vinegar

Roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for serving

BURGERS

1 small eggplant (9 to 10 ounces)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

½ teaspoon smoked paprika

½ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste

1 pound ground beef

2 ounces feta cheese, cut into 12 cubes

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

4 hamburger buns, toasted (I like Martin’s)

Make the relish. In a large heavy-bottomed, nonreactive saucepan, combine the parsnips, shallots, garlic, sea salt, sugar, ½ cup water, the oregano, and chili flakes. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 30 minutes. Add the vinegar and continue to cook until the parsnips are translucent and a bit spicy, about 30 minutes more; overall the relish should look like sauerkraut. Transfer the mixture to a small bowl to cool completely. Sealed in an airtight container, it can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Before serving, stir in as much parsley as you like.

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Make the burgers. Prick the eggplant all over with a fork and place it directly over the burner’s flame on medium heat. Char the outside of the eggplant, using tongs to turn it until the entire surface is blackened evenly, about 15 minutes. (Alternatively, you can do this in the oven, under the broiler, on a baking sheet.) Transfer it to a baking sheet and roast in the oven until the flesh is mushy soft, 20 to 30 minutes. When the eggplant is cool enough to handle, trim it, remove and discard the skin, and place the flesh in a food processor. Add the olive oil, smoked paprika, and kosher salt, and process into a smooth puree. Let cool to room temperature and transfer to a large bowl.

Add the ground beef to the puree and stir just to incorporate. Divide the mixture into 8 small piles about 3 inches wide. Top one of the piles with 3 cubes of feta, then place another pile on top of it, gently pressing to form a thick patty and completely enclose the feta. Repeat to form 4 patties. Season on both sides with kosher salt and pepper.

Heat a large cast-iron skillet on the stove, gradually increasing the heat from low to medium. Add the butter. When the butter is melted and sizzling, increase the heat to high and add the patties. Cook without moving them until a crust forms on the bottoms, about 5 minutes. Flip the burgers over and cook to your liking, about 4 minutes more for medium-rare. Remove them from the skillet and let rest for 5 minutes.

Place the burgers on the toasted buns and top each with some of the parsnip relish.

PARSNIPPY BOBOTIE

WITH EGGPLANT SMOOR

When I returned from South Africa, the first thing my mother asked was if I’d eaten bobotie, a national specialty. The curried lamb casserole was brought to that country by Dutch settlers in the seventeenth century. When a livestock shortage hit, eggs were used to make up the meatless difference, and the dish’s distinguishing custard cap was baked into place. Dried fruit and nuts were a contribution from the Malaysian population. I sub parsnips for the traditional carrots and apples, and ground beef for the lamb. A customary accompaniment, tomato smoor is a sweet and mildly hot condiment; when prepared with eggplant, it becomes more of a side dish.

serves 6 to 8

BOBOTIE

2 large eggs

1½ cups whole milk

1½ teaspoons fine sea salt, plus more to taste

2 slices stale white bread, crusts removed, torn into pieces

1 to 2 tablespoons neutral oil

2 small yellow onions, thinly sliced

1 or 2 cloves garlic, minced

1 to 2 tablespoons curry powder

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

¾ cup sliced almonds, toasted

2 large parsnips, peeled and grated (about 14 ounces total)

8 dried apricots, finely diced

⅓ cup firmly packed golden raisins (2 ounces)

2 tablespoons mango chutney, plus more for serving

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste

2 pounds ground beef

3 or 4 dried bay leaves

Cooked rice, for serving (optional)

SMOOR

¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 medium eggplants (14 to 16 ounces each), cut into ½-inch dice

1¼ teaspoons fine sea salt, plus more as needed

1 large yellow onion, cut into ¼-inch slices

12 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved

1 jalapeño pepper, stemmed, seeded (optional), and minced

1 tablespoon sugar

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Make the bobotie. In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs, 1¼ cups of the milk, and 2 pinches of salt to taste until smooth. Cover the custard base with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use. Place the bread and the remaining ¼ cup milk in a separate small bowl and set aside.

In a large sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the neutral oil over medium-low heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the onions and cook, stirring frequently, until just beginning to caramelize, about 20 minutes. If the onions start to scorch, add the remaining 1 tablespoon neutral oil. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the curry powder and turmeric, and cook, stirring, until the onions are coated and aromatic, 30 to 60 seconds. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl, let cool slightly, then add the almonds, parsnips, apricots, raisins, chutney, and soaked bread along with any remaining milk. Season with 1½ teaspoons salt and ½ teaspoon pepper and stir to thoroughly incorporate.

Add the meat to the bowl and mix well. Transfer the mixture to a large round baking dish and pat it down evenly. Tuck the bay leaves into the dish, leaving them exposed to pull out after baking.

Bake the bobotie until it’s just firming up, about 30 minutes. Carefully remove the dish from the oven and drain off any excess fat. Pour the custard base evenly over the top, return the dish to the oven, and bake until the custard is set, about 20 minutes more.

Meanwhile, make the smoor. In a large sauté pan, heat ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons of the olive oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the eggplants and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and golden, 11 to 15 minutes. Season with ½ teaspoon of salt, transfer to a medium bowl, and set aside.

Wipe out the pan and add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it begins to turn golden, 10 to 15 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low and continue to cook until the onion is browning on the edges, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir to prevent burning. Add the tomatoes, jalapeño, and sugar; stir well. Cook on low heat until warmed through, 10 to 15 minutes. Season with ½ teaspoon of salt and transfer to the bowl with the eggplant, stirring to combine. Add the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt and taste, adjusting the seasoning as needed.

Let the bobotie cool for about 10 minutes. Remove the bay leaves and serve it hot or warm, with rice, if you like, mango chutney, and eggplant smoor.

COOKING NOTE You can taste seasoned ground beef before you cook it to make sure it has enough salt: heat a little neutral oil in the pan and fry a nugget of the beef mixture in it, taste, and adjust the mixture’s seasoning as needed.

LAMB SHOULDER
+
DATE
+
CHICKPEAS

Separately, musky lamb, sugary dates, and hearty chickpeas can hold their own. Together, they’d probably be identified as characters in a Middle Eastern culinary plot. But they’re longtime players in the North African and Spanish food scenes and shouldn’t be confined to a single cuisine, Mediterranean or otherwise.

LAMB SHOULDER

DATE

CHICKPEAS

CHARACTER

Earthy, grassy, sweet

Sweet, sticky, chewy

Nutty, grainy, firm

SUBSTITUTE

Lamb shank, leg, or neck, pork shoulder, bone-in short rib, chuck roast, brisket, oxtails

Figs (fresh or dried), prunes, jujubes

Edamame, black beans, cannellini, lima beans, Great Northern beans

TIP

Pasture-raised lambs from New Zealand are purely grass-fed and taste gamier than those from America.

Try date syrup as an alternative to maple syrup, honey, agave nectar, or molasses.

They’re great roasted; their canned liquid is an egg substitute; and chickpea flour is gluten-free.

COMPLEMENTS

Mint, eggplant, peas, parsnips, apricots (dried or fresh), olives, potatoes, lentils, couscous, feta, anchovies

Coffee, toffee, celery, grain salads, oats, coconut, nuts, sharp or salty cheeses, duck, bacon

Spinach, tomato, stews, soups, dried red chili flakes, couscous, pasta, canned tuna, shellfish, chorizo

LAMB, DATE & CHICKPEA PILAF

Back in the fourth grade, my class studied the Bedouins, and we were each assigned to write about an aspect of nomadic life in the Middle Eastern deserts. I reported on customs. At the end of the quarter, we had a Bedouin-ish potluck to celebrate. My mother made a lamb and apricot pilaf that I subsequently requested from her all the time. Although I developed this uncustomary adaptation in honor of Mom, I took the opportunity to correct a minor imperfection in her recipe: the rice would always come out mushy. I parboil it, then, when it’s time to finish it with the braised lamb, I follow a technique similar to that used for Persian tah dig (see this page) so the grains stay firm.

serves 4 to 6

½ teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon ground cumin

3½ teaspoons salt, plus more to taste

1 teaspoon ground white pepper

1¼ pounds deboned lamb shoulder meat, cut into 1½-inch cubes

5 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup chopped onion

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1 cup dates, each pitted and cut into thirds, plus 6 dates, each pitted and cut into sixths

3 tablespoons golden raisins

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon orange zest

1½ cups basmati rice

1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

¼ cup chopped fresh mint

Harissa or mango chutney, for serving

Combine the ginger, cumin, 1¼ teaspoons of the salt, and ½ teaspoon of the white pepper in a small bowl. Place the lamb in a large bowl and sprinkle the spice mixture over it, using your hands to toss the lamb and coat the cubes evenly.

In a medium Dutch oven, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic, and sauté, stirring often, until softened and beginning to turn golden, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the lamb and cook, turning repeatedly, until browned on all sides, about 6 minutes. Add the cup of dates, the raisins, and enough water to cover the contents of the pot. Increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the cinnamon and ½ teaspoon of the orange zest, and simmer, covered, until the meat is tender, 1 to 1¼ hours.

About 20 minutes before the meat is done, make the rice. Using a sieve or colander, rinse the rice under cold water until the water runs clear. Meanwhile, bring 3 cups water to a boil in a large saucepan. When the water is boiling, add 1½ teaspoons of the salt, followed by the rinsed rice. Cook the rice for 5 to 6 minutes, until the grains are just starting to turn opaque and still partially translucent. While the rice is cooking, melt the remaining 4 tablespoons butter. Drain the rice, transfer it to a medium bowl, and stir in the melted butter.

When the lamb is tender, turn off the heat and, using a slotted spoon, transfer the meat, dates, and vegetables (i.e., stew) to a medium bowl, leaving the liquid in the pot. Give the stew a stir; the dates, which will have expanded and softened, will collapse and act as a binder. Add the remaining ¾ teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon white pepper, and stir again to incorporate.

Drain the pot and return it to the stove over medium heat. Add half of the rice and layer the lamb mixture on top. Cover the stew with the remaining rice. Using the handle of a wooden spoon, poke five holes in the pilaf down to the bottom of the pot. Wrap the lid of the pot in a clean kitchen towel, cover the pilaf, and cook until steam emerges from the pot, 5 to 10 minutes; you are likely to hear it hiss. Reduce the heat to low and cook until the rice is tender, about 30 minutes.

When the rice is done, turn off the heat and add the chickpeas, the remaining dates and orange zest, and the fresh mint. Stir together, combining the rice from the bottom. If any rice is stuck to the base of the pot, use your spoon to scrape it up and incorporate it. Taste and add salt as needed. Serve hot with harissa or chutney.

KERALA-STYLE LAMB STEW

This warming, everything-in-the-pot stew is loosely based on a southern Indian side dish known as ishtu—very loosely. In the state of Kerala, where it originated, it’s vegetarian and made with regular potatoes. Not mine! This one has lamb and sweet potatoes, because I love the interplay of those ingredients with coconut milk. The spinach stirred in at the end makes for a well-balanced meal. Toss canned chickpeas with toasted, ground spices, fresh herbs, lemon, and dates and you’ve got a TKO punch of an accompaniment. Less expensive than other cuts, lamb shoulder has more flavor and better proportions of fat and flesh than what’s typically marked “stew meat.” It’s worth seeking out from your butcher.

serves 3 or 4

STEW

1 (13½-ounce) can full-fat unsweetened coconut milk, chilled

1 pound deboned lamb shoulder meat, cut into 2-inch pieces

2½ teaspoons salt

2 tablespoons unrefined coconut oil

1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

6 whole cloves

½ teaspoon allspice berries

2 dried bay leaves

1 medium yellow onion, halved and thickly sliced

1 (2-inch-long) chunk fresh ginger, peeled and cut into matchsticks

2 medium or 3 small green Thai or serrano chilies, halved lengthwise

2 medium sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

1 teaspoon lime zest

2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar

1 bunch fresh spinach (about ½ pound)

Cooked rice or couscous, for serving (optional)

CHICKPEAS

2½ teaspoons coriander seeds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

2 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon salt

¼ cup chopped pitted dates

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro

¼ cup chopped fresh mint leaves

Make the stew. Use a spoon to scoop out the cream that has risen to the top of the can of coconut milk and set it aside, reserving the liquid milk in the can.

Season the lamb with 1 teaspoon of the salt.

Heat the coconut oil in a medium Dutch oven over medium heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the peppercorns, cloves, allspice, and bay leaves, and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the onion, ginger, and chilies, and sauté, stirring often, until softened and browned, 20 to 25 minutes. Add the lamb and sweet potatoes, and continue to sauté, turning constantly, until the meat firms up and its exterior turns gray, about 5 minutes. Add ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon water, ½ teaspoon of the salt, and the reserved coconut milk, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the lime zest, and cover the pot. Simmer until the lamb is tender and cooked through, 1 to 1½ hours.

Meanwhile, prepare the chickpeas. Heat a cast-iron skillet on the stove, gradually increasing the heat from low to medium. Add the coriander seeds and toast them, shaking the pan continuously, until they release a citrusy, popcorn-like aroma and begin to tremble, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the seeds to a mortar. Return the skillet to the stove over medium heat and add the cumin seeds, toasting them the same way, until they release their earthier fragrance, up to 1 minute. Add the seeds to the mortar and let them cool. Using the pestle, grind the toasted seeds into a powder. Transfer to a small bowl, add the pepper and nutmeg, and stir to combine.

In a large bowl, combine the chickpeas with 1 teaspoon of the spice mixture, the lemon juice, and salt. Add the dates and fresh cilantro and mint leaves, and stir again to incorporate.

Whisk the coconut cream into the lamb, then add the vinegar and ¾ teaspoon of the salt. Stir in the spinach to coat, and simmer, uncovered, just until wilted, about 5 minutes. Season with the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Pick out and discard the whole spices before serving.

Serve the stew hot over plain rice or couscous, if desired, with the chickpeas alongside.

COOKING NOTE Store the leftover spice mixture in a plastic bag or small glass jar wherever you keep your dry spices. It’s best used right away but will keep for at least 1 month. Use it to roast vegetables like carrots, parsnips, or butternut squash.

ROASTED LAMB PITAS

WITH HUMMUS

Anyone who’s familiar with Korean food knows about bossam, a dish of pork belly that’s boiled in a garlicky, gingery brine and served in lettuce wraps with a buffet of garnishes. Many Americans have been made aware of it courtesy of David Chang, a Korean American chef who put it on the menu at Momofuku Ssäm Bar, in New York. His is a cured, caramel-crusted, slow-roasted pork butt or shoulder, its glistening flesh disintegrating into its fat. Ever since my first bite, I’d pondered trying something similar on lamb. My rub is a sui generis salmagundi of espresso powder, spices, and date syrup, and, with shawarma on the brain, I pack the meat into a pita, with a madcap hummus made to match the lamb’s seasonings.

makes 6 sandwiches

LAMB

1 (6- to-7-pound) bone-in lamb shoulder, with some fat cap still attached

2 tablespoons fine sea salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons instant espresso powder

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons date syrup

5 cloves garlic, finely chopped

3 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves

HUMMUS

1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1 tablespoon almond butter

1 clove garlic, crushed

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

½ teaspoon smoked paprika

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to taste

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup chopped dates

2 tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted

Pita or flatbread, for serving

Fresh watercress or greens of your choice, for serving

Hot sauce or vinegar, for drizzling (optional)

Prepare the lamb. Lightly score the fat on the lamb in a crisscross pattern at 1-inch intervals. Place the meat in a large roasting pan. In a small bowl, combine the salt, pepper, espresso powder, and fennel seeds. Generously season the lamb with the spice mixture, coating it evenly on all sides.

In a separate small bowl, whisk together the olive oil and date syrup. Add the garlic and thyme. Using your hands, rub the marinade into the meat, coating it completely. Place the lamb, fat-side up, in the roasting pan. Cover the pan tightly with foil, and chill for at least 2 hours or, preferably, overnight.

Remove the roasting pan from the refrigerator and let the lamb rest at room temperature, keeping it covered with the foil, for 1 hour or so.

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

Roast the lamb, still covered, basting it every 30 minutes and adding ¼ cup water at a time if the pan is dry, until the lamb is tender and pulling easily away from the bones, 4½ to 5 hours. Be sure to resecure the foil tightly between each basting.

Meanwhile, make the hummus. Puree the chickpeas, almond butter, garlic, lemon juice, spices, and salt with 2 ta-blespoons cold water in a food processor. With the motor running, slowly stream in the olive oil. Pulse until the mixture is smooth, about 1 minute. Transfer the hummus to a small bowl and stir in the dates and sesame seeds to combine. Taste and add salt as needed. This hummus can be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Uncover the lamb, turn the oven to broil, and continue cooking the lamb, basting it halfway through, until its fat is golden brown and crisp, about 3 minutes total, or, if you prefer, beginning to char, 4 to 5 minutes.

Transfer the lamb to a cutting board and let it rest for at least 20 minutes. Skim and discard the fat from the surface of the juices in the roasting pan. Reserve the remaining juices in a pitcher or small bowl.

To serve, slather each pita with the hummus, pile on some of the lamb, and garnish with watercress. Spoon some of the reserved lamb gravy on top or add any hot sauce or vinegar you like.

PORK BELLY
+
PRUNE
+
RADICCHIO

Most Americans know pork belly as a cured and smoked substance called bacon. Recently, we’ve embraced it, fresh, with its irresistible (sometimes even to vegetarians) sheath of fat that keeps its flesh succulent. It’s almost too sumptuous, but here it is reined in by the bitterness of purple-speckled radicchio and the caramel sweetness of prunes.

PORK BELLY

PRUNE

RADICCHIO

CHARACTER

Rich, meaty, meltingly tender

Caramel, soft, plump

Bitter, crisp, chicory

SUBSTITUTE

Lamb belly, pork shoulder, pork or beef cheeks

Dried cherries, figs, apricots; dates, raisins

Endive, frisée, escarole, dandelion greens

TIP

Ask your butcher for a leaner piece of center-cut belly. Look for heritage Berkshire pork.

Prunes are semi-dried, so they’re relatively hydrated and don’t need to be reconstituted before cooking.

Roast it! Drizzle wedges with olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and cook in a 450°F oven.

COMPLEMENTS

Caramel, apples, stone fruit, scallions, broccoli rabe, arugula, cannellini, lentils, chestnuts, anchovies, oysters

Warm spices, orange, shallots, chocolate, brandy, heavy cream, yogurt, chestnuts, almonds, goat cheese, bacon

Balsamic, grapes, citrus, cannellini, lentils, risotto, almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts, blue cheese, Parmesan, salmon, bacon

STIR-FRIED PORK BELLY

WITH PICKLED PRUNES

Shogayaki is a popular Japanese home-style dish of gingery pork (sometimes beef) grilled—or stir-fried—with soy sauce and sweet mirin; usually, it’s served with shredded cabbage. I’ve led the pig down another flavor path, but I’ve honored the original tenets: a quickie marinade that’s cooked with the meat and becomes the dressing for the lettuce, a limited number of ingredients, and all-around ease. In Japan, a small bowl of tsukemono, or pickles, might be offered on the side, with rice, or as a garnish. I brined some prunes to go with the belly; they’d also be bonkers with roasts.

serves 4

PICKLED PRUNES

½ naval orange

1 pound pitted prunes

1 cup red wine vinegar

½ cup packed light brown sugar

½ cup honey

½ teaspoon dried thyme

4 allspice berries

1 teaspoon yellow mustard seeds

¼ teaspoon dried red chili flakes

Salt to taste

PORK

2 tablespoons unseasoned rice vinegar

1½ tablespoons honey

1 tablespoon hoisin sauce

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves

1 shallot, roughly chopped

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

1¼ pounds boneless, skinless pork belly, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices

1 medium head radicchio

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves

1 tablespoon neutral oil

1 lemon, quartered

Salt to taste

Pickle the prunes. Before juicing the orange, peel its zest in long thin strips. In a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine the orange zest and juice, prunes, red wine vinegar, brown sugar, honey, thyme, allspice, mustard seeds, chili flakes, and salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and continue to cook for 15 minutes, stirring from time to time, to allow the flavors to intensify. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the liquid has thickened substantially, becoming syrupy, up to 10 minutes more. (If the prunes seem in danger of falling apart, use a slotted spoon to transfer them to a plate while you reduce the liquid, then return them to the saucepan when the liquid is done.) Remove the saucepan from the stove and let the prunes cool to room temperature. Transfer them, with their liquid, to a sealed container. They will keep in the fridge for at least 2 weeks. Serve cold or at room temperature.

Prepare the pork. In a medium bowl, whisk together the vinegar, honey, hoisin, mustard, and soy sauce. Whisk in the rosemary and shallot, followed by the black pepper.

Add the pork to the marinade, turning to coat. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and marinate for 15 to 20 minutes at room temperature.

Meanwhile, trim and shred the radicchio. Transfer to a serving bowl. Add the chives and thyme and toss to incorporate.

Heat a large cast-iron skillet gradually on the stove, increasing the heat from low to high. Add the oil. When the oil is shimmering, add the pork to the pan, using tongs or a slotted spoon, reserving the marinade, and sauté until browned on both sides, about 4 minutes total. Add the marinade to the pan and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the sauce begins to caramelize and coats the meat, about 4 minutes more.

Transfer the pork to a serving plate and spoon the marinade sauce over the radicchio, tossing to incorporate. Squeeze the lemon over both the meat and the salad. Season both with a pinch or two of salt and a couple grinds of pepper. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed. Serve immediately with the pickled prunes alongside.

BRAISED PORK BELLY

WITH PRUNES & RADICCHIO

Have you ever been to a dinner party where the host plonks a Dutch oven full of what looks, smells, and tastes like heaven on the table, and tells you all he did was chuck everything in the pot, put the lid on, and leave it in the oven? You assume his nonchalance is an act and he slaved over the stove. I have news for you: he may have been telling the truth. As this dunce-proof recipe for pork belly slowly sweltered in a bottle of wine with prunes and radicchio shows, you can, in fact, make a one-pot dish that is simultaneously humble and dramatic without any heavy lifting, except for the maneuvering of the cooking vessel.

serves 4

1 (2¼-pound) piece boneless, skin-on pork belly

½ teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 large carrots, peeled and cut into 2 × ¼-inch batons

1 large onion, roughly chopped

¾ cup pitted prunes (4 to 5 ounces), halved

7 (⅛-inch-thick) slices unpeeled ginger

4 whole star anise

1 (750 ml) bottle dry white wine

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

3½ tablespoons sugar

1 head radicchio, cored and cut into 5 or 6 wedges

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Season the skin of the pork with the salt and pepper, massaging it in.

Heat the olive oil in a medium Dutch oven over medium heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the pork, skin-side down. Cook it until the skin is browned, about 10 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and transfer the pork to a plate.

Add the carrots, onion, prunes, ginger, star anise, wine, soy sauce, and sugar to the pot. Return the pork to the pot, skin-side up, and cover. Transfer the pot to the oven, basting it every 30 minutes, and cook until the meat is meltingly tender, about 2½ hours.

Remove the lid and add the radicchio, placing it around the pork. Baste some of the cooking liquid over the wedges. Return the pot to the oven, uncovered, and cook until the radicchio is cooked through and wilted and the liquid has become a dark, glossy sauce, 30 minutes more.

Remove the pot from the oven and transfer the pork to a cutting board to rest for 15 minutes, keeping the pot covered so the vegetables stay warm. Discard the star anise and ginger. Season the vegetables and sauce with salt and pepper as needed. Slice the pork and transfer the pieces to the pot, placing them on top of the vegetables. Serve hot.

RADICCHIO, PRUNE & PORK BELLY SALAD

I was at my desk, ravenous, when I saw an Instagram photo of a mound of burgundy-streaked radicchio with morsels of near-black dried purple plum and crumbly white feta peeking out. It evoked stabs of hunger and jealousy. I forwarded the picture to a prune-loving friend, who replicated the salad and reported it “was like a mouth orgasm.” Clearly, I had to try it. Ever the lily-gilder, I added pork belly, applying a technique for roasting the meat so the flesh goes tender, the fat collapsing, and the skin gets so crunchy it shatters like brittle or a crème brûlée crust. Then I shook up a feisty, tart vinaigrette in a jar, my preferred method for making (and vessel for storing) dressing.

serves 4 as an appetizer

1½ pounds boneless, skin-on pork belly

½ teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more to taste

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

Boiling water

1 large head Treviso or round radicchio, roughly chopped into bite-size pieces

¼ pound feta, crumbled (about 1 cup)

¾ cup pitted prunes, quartered

2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh mint

2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh cilantro

4 tablespoons Lime Vinaigrette (recipe follows)

Preheat the oven to 400ºF.

Blot the pork skin dry with paper towels, then rub it all over with the salt and pepper. Place the pork, skin-side up, on a rack in a deep roasting pan, then, avoiding the meat, pour in enough boiling water to come just below the rack. Roast the pork, refilling the water as needed to keep it level, until the skin is crisp and the meat is tender, 1½ to 1¾ hours. Remove from the oven, transfer the pork to a cutting board, and let it rest for about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the radicchio in a large bowl and season it with a pinch of salt and pepper. Toss to combine. Add the crumbled feta and toss again, followed by the prunes. Sprinkle in the fresh mint and cilantro and toss. Drizzle 3 tablespoons of the vinaigrette around the perimeter of the salad as you toss, folding everything from the edge toward the middle to coat evenly.

Cut the rested pork into bite-size cubes and add them to the salad. Drizzle the belly pieces with the remaining 1 tablespoon vinaigrette and toss again to incorporate.

LIME VINAIGRETTE

Makes about ½ cup

3 tablespoons fresh lime juice

1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

2 teaspoons pomegranate molasses

¼ teaspoon ground sumac

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed

¼ teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Lime zest to taste

Combine the lime juice, rice vinegar, Dijon mustard, pomegranate molasses, and sumac in a small glass jar, put the lid on, and shake to combine. Add the olive oil and repeat. Taste and add more olive oil, if needed, shaking again to incorporate. Season with the salt and pepper, and give it another shake to incorporate. Add a few gratings of lime zest to the jar and shake to combine. Give it a final taste and if you want to add more of anything, do so now, shaking the vinaigrette to incorporate. Covered, it will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. You will need to shake it again before serving, as it separates.