DAIRY

EGGS
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OLIVES
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LABNEH

Even when meat and money are scarce, you can still scare up a few eggs and, with them, a complete meal. Brined fruity olives and the creamy Middle Eastern yogurt cheese known as labneh aren’t really things you cook; they’re things you cook with, to make more of what you’ve got.

	EGGS	OLIVES	LABNEH
CHARACTER	Silky, oozy, fluffy	Salty, bracing, meaty	Tangy, cooling, dense
SUBSTITUTE	If they’re the center of a dish, there is no substitute. But why not try duck eggs?	Capers, caperberries, pickled vegetables like Japanese oshinko, sun-dried tomatoes, anchovies	Greek yogurt, skyr, cream cheese, mascarpone, quark, sour cream, crème fraîche, fresh goat cheese
TIP	Fresh eggs sink to the bottom in a bowl of cold water. Dump the floaters.	If they’re too assertive, rinse them off. Deep-brown niçoise olives are a good all-purpose choice.	DIY by straining 2 pounds high-quality yogurt mixed with ½ teaspoon salt through a muslin-lined sieve.
COMPLEMENTS	Bread, heavy cream, cheese, smoked salmon, bacon, ham, sausage, salami, steak, chicken liver	Herbs, garlic, nightshades, cornmeal, pasta, mozzarella, goat cheese, feta, ricotta, fish, chicken, lamb	Herbs, spices, extra-virgin olive oil, jam, garlic, sun-dried tomatoes, bread, smoked salmon

EGG SALAD

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: when it comes to egg salad, let your yolks do the work—cut down on the mayonnaise. You want velvety-rich, luscious material with sandwich potential, not wet, mushy, melts-in-the-heat-of-the-day-and-reeks-like-sulfur slop. That means less binder, and a better one—enter labneh, with its tart, dense cream-cheesiness. Let this recipe be your template, even if you stay the mayo course. If you follow the directions as written, you can enjoy my egg salad with a fork or allow it to live up to its promise between two slices of brioche, Pullman, pumpernickel, or focaccia, with some watercress or arugula tucked in—and maybe just a teensy bit more honey mustard spread on the bread.

makes enough for 4 sandwiches

6 large eggs

5 tablespoons labneh

2½ teaspoons honey mustard

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

½ cup pitted picholine olives, roughly chopped

¼ cup toasted pistachios or almonds, roughly chopped

1½ teaspoons finely chopped fresh rosemary

2 teaspoons roughly chopped fresh chervil (see Substitution Note)

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh chives

Place the eggs in a large pot and add enough water to cover by ¾ inch. Cook over high heat, stirring occasionally, until just before the water starts to boil, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat, cover, and let the eggs sit for 9 minutes.

Meanwhile, stir together the labneh and honey mustard in a medium bowl.

Drain the eggs and run them under cold water to stop the cooking. Peel them and separate the whites and yolks. Use your hands to break up the whites and place them in a small bowl. Put the yolks in the bowl with the labneh and honey mustard. Using a fork, smash the yolks into the honey mustard mixture to form a paste and season it with salt and pepper. Fold in the egg whites, olives, and pistachios, evenly combining and fluffing the salad as you go. Gently fold in the rosemary, chervil, and chives. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed. Combine and fluff again, taking care not to overwork the salad. It’s ready to serve.

SUBSTITUTION NOTE Chervil’s leaves are small and pretty. They taste like a milder tarragon crossed with parsley. You can substitute those for this herb, or choose others you like—basil, dill, or thyme, for example.

SLOW-SCRAMBLED EGGS

WITH OLIVE TAPENADE

The first thing I ever cooked by myself was my father’s specialty, scrambled eggs, which I proudly made for him. Dad’s continued to be voted the best in the family for the next two decades. That changed when I learned the slow scramble, or French-style method, which entails cooking the eggs over indirect heat—in a double boiler—while constantly agitating them with a whisk to keep them soft and creamy. A lump of butter to finish helps. Cheffy types artfully blend in crème fraîche, but I’ve switched over to labneh; it has the silkiness of the former with a sharper, saltier flavor. That’s what eggs need: flavor—and seasoning. Enter olive tapenade, one that puts the fruit first and sesame, sumac, and marjoram second.

serves 4

12 large eggs

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

¼ cup labneh

2 tablespoons (¼ stick) unsalted butter, softened

Olive Tapenade (recipe follows or store-bought), for serving

Toast, for serving (optional)

Bring water to a simmer in the base of a double boiler (see Cooking Notes, this page).

Meanwhile, crack the eggs into a large bowl and season with salt and pepper. Whisk until frothy. Add the labneh and whisk to incorporate.

Add the beaten eggs to the top of the double boiler. Cook gradually, whisking vigorously, nonstop. Just as they begin to set and form curds, which takes at least 10 minutes, remove the top pot from the heat; the eggs should have the texture of cottage cheese. Whisk in the butter.

Spoon the scrambled eggs into 4 bowls or onto plates, swirling 1½ to 2 teaspoons olive tapenade into the hot eggs. Serve with toast, if desired.

OLIVE TAPENADE

Makes ⅜ cup

½ cup pitted niçoise and/or kalamata black olives, roughly chopped

1 small clove garlic, minced

2 tablespoons loosely packed fresh marjoram or oregano leaves

1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted

1 teaspoon ground sumac

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Combine the olives, garlic, marjoram, sesame seeds, and sumac in a mortar. Using the pestle, gradually break down the ingredients to create a paste. (Note: You can do this in a food processor, if preferred.) Work in the lemon juice, then drizzle in the olive oil to make it spreadable. Season with salt and pepper. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed. Store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

LABNEH-BAKED EGGS

Of the many ways you can cook eggs, I believe baking them has the gentlest learning curve and highest success rate. Prepared this way, they’re nearly impossible to screw up. You can crack them into homemade tomato sauce, heavy cream, or ricotta, with pancetta, Parmesan, spinach, bread crumbs, herbs, or olives. I put the latter in mine, choosing the large, green Castelvetranos from Sicily, and cook them in labneh. You’ll see baked eggs on lots of restaurant brunch menus; they arrive straight from the oven, often in small gratin dishes so each diner has her own. That’s how I do it at home, whether I’m fixing myself a light supper or feeding a loved one or two. Fifteen minutes is all you need.

serves 1

3 tablespoons labneh

½ teaspoon harissa

2 large eggs

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 Castelvetrano olives, pitted and torn into pieces (see Substitution Note)

Fresh thyme leaves and chopped fresh basil, flat-leaf parsley, or oregano, for garnish

Preheat the oven to 375ºF.

In a small bowl, whisk together the labneh and harissa using a fork.

Crack 2 eggs into a mini gratin dish, taking care not to break the yolks. Gently place dollops of the labneh mixture around the eggs, filling the surface area of the dish, and sprinkle with a generous pinch of salt and pepper. Dot the dish with the olive pieces.

Bake until the whites are just set and the yolks are very loose, 9 to 10 minutes; the eggs will continue to cook once they’re out of the oven.

Garnish with a generous showering of fresh herbs before serving.

SUBSTITUTION NOTE Castelvetranos are larger than most olives. Picholines are smaller but equally well suited here; use an extra one per serving.

GOAT CHEESE
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STRAWBERRY
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BALSAMIC

Strawberries become a better-than-sour-candy version of them-selves when combined with balsamic vinegar, and salty, tangy goat cheese gets on with that slightly sweet, acidic liquid like a house on fire. So it stands to reason that the berries and chèvre also benefit from each other’s company. It’s a culinary syllogism—and a sound one.

	GOAT CHEESE	STRAWBERRY	BALSAMIC
CHARACTER	Tangy, earthy, crumbly	Sweet, tart, juicy	Mellow, fruity, acidic
SUBSTITUTE	Feta, mascarpone, ricotta, cream cheese, or a combination (for fresh); Camembert or Brie (for aged)	Any other fresh berry or combination of berries; dried strawberries, strawberry jam, pickled strawberries	Sherry, apple cider, red wine, or saba vinegar (add honey or sugar as needed)
TIP	Fresh is soft and mild; aged is stronger, with a weepy outer layer and denser center.	The best are local, in-season, red (not green or white) and really smell like strawberries.	The best are from Modena, Italy, and marked IGP. Darker balsamics are sweeter.
COMPLEMENTS	Greens, leeks, sweet bell peppers, eggplant, fruit (fresh or dried), honey, nuts, chicken, bacon, sausage	Herbs, spinach, citrus, stone fruit, rhubarb, ginger, coconut, sesame, black pepper, cream, almonds, pistachios, halloumi	Fruit, ice cream, roasted vegetables, fresh mozzarella, Parmesan, grilled or roasted pork or chicken, duck

STRAWBERRIES

WITH WHIPPED GOAT CHEESE & BALSAMIC SYRUP

Whoever has prepacked parfaits into sad, flimsy plastic cups and stacked them in the refrigerated cases of airport kiosks has participated in a smear campaign against the layered compositions I once loved. As of right now, I’m restoring their good name, starting with this striated dessert of macerated berries smothered in a cloud of creamy soft goat cheese, drizzled with viscous balsamic, and strewn with crumbly crunchies. Eat it seconds after it’s been piled into a bowl or sundae glass, plunging your spoon to the bottom so it can catch some of each element in one bite.

serves 6

2 pounds fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced about ¼ inch thick

½ cup honey

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

4 sprigs fresh mint

1⅓ cups balsamic vinegar

2½ tablespoons packed light brown sugar

8 ounces fresh goat cheese (1 cup), at room temperature

½ cup heavy cream

1½ tablespoons strawberry jam

Kosher salt to taste

TOPPINGS

½ cup toasted hazelnuts, pistachios, and/or almonds, roughly chopped; or

Butter cookies, crumbled

Macerate the strawberries. In a large bowl, toss the strawberries with the honey and lemon juice until the liquids combine and coat all the berries. Submerge the mint sprigs into the mixture, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and place it in the fridge for at least 30 minutes or up to 24 hours.

Make the balsamic syrup. In a small heavy-bottomed saucepan, bring the balsamic vinegar and brown sugar to a boil over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid reduces to ½ cup and is just beginning to thicken, about 25 minutes. Be sure the vinegar doesn’t burn or the mixture become too viscous—if it’s too thick, it will seize up as it cools and become solid. Remove the syrup from the heat and let it cool before using. Stored in a sealed container, it will keep in the refrigerator for up to a month. Serve at room temperature.

Make the whipped goat cheese. In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle (or using a medium bowl and handheld electric mixer), whip the goat cheese and cream together on medium speed until smooth, creamy, and aerated. Add the strawberry jam and continue to mix until incorporated. Season with a pinch of salt. Transfer to a small bowl. Stored in a sealed container, it will keep in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

To serve, remove the mint sprigs from the strawberries and discard the herb. Using a slotted spoon, evenly divide the berries among 6 bowls. Top each with a hefty dollop (2 heaping spoonfuls) of the whipped goat cheese and drizzle up to 1 teaspoon of the balsamic syrup on top. Garnish with 1 tablespoon chopped nuts per bowl or some crumbled butter cookies.

STRAWBERRY TOMATO SALAD

The first time I went to Le Coucou restaurant in Manhattan, I was so distracted by how cinematic the cavernous space was that I barely paid attention to what was being ordered. Then a plate bearing a trail of strawberries and small tomatoes was set down, and its pretty simplicity caught my eye. Once tasted, the pairing held my attention. What impressed me, aside from how well the two red fruits got on together, was that both were out of season, and the dish seemed better for it. For the first time, I appreciated the sourness of the berries and the muted acidity of the tomatoes. I’ve done something less minimalist with that combination, using goat cheese to keep the original dish’s flavors at the fore.

serves 4

12 ounces strawberries, hulled and quartered (about 2¼ cups)

12 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved (about 2¼ cups)

1 medium cucumber, quartered lengthwise and cut into ½-inch slices (about 2 cups)

½ teaspoon flake salt, plus more to taste

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ pound Bûcheron or other semi-aged goat cheese, cubed

3 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh basil

1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh tarragon

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

¼ teaspoon honey

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

In a large serving bowl, toss together the strawberries, tomatoes, cucumber, salt, and pepper. Add the goat cheese and gently toss again, just to incorporate. Add the herbs and toss quickly to distribute.

In a small bowl, whisk together the balsamic vinegar and honey using a fork. Continuing to whisk, slowly stream in the olive oil to form a vinaigrette.

Pour the vinaigrette over the salad and toss to combine. Taste and add salt as needed. It’s ready to go.

STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE

“Strawberry shortcake, banana split, we think your team’s a bucket of…Shift to the left, shift to the right…!” To this day, even when I’m enjoying a flawlessly executed strawberry shortcake with the juiciest berries and tenderest-crumbed biscuit, I hear that summer-camp sports cheer. The quaint red-and-white dessert, perhaps more American even than apple pie, is perfect as is. But I wanted to shift it, just a little. When I tasted my handiwork, I cheered real loud. Faced with crappy fresh fruit, you shouldn’t feel bad about buying a jar of good strawberry jam and spooning it onto the shortcakes. And when peaches are in season, you shouldn’t beat yourself up for putting the stone fruit in the starting lineup.

serves 4

2 ounces fresh goat cheese

1¼ cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed

¼ cup plus 3 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 teaspoon baking powder

¼ teaspoon salt

¾ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

5½ tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes and chilled

¼ cup heavy cream, plus more as needed and for brushing

1½ pounds strawberries (2 pints), hulled and cut lengthwise into ⅛-inch slices

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped, pod reserved

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Demerara or turbinado sugar, for sprinkling (optional)

Vanilla ice cream or unsweetened fresh whipped cream, for serving

Put the goat cheese in the freezer for 5 minutes to firm up. Remove it from the freezer and cut it into ½-inch cubes. Put it back in the freezer to firm up again while you gather and combine your dry ingredients.

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, ¼ cup of the granulated sugar, the baking powder, salt, and pepper to combine. Working quickly and using your fingers, incorporate the butter and goat cheese cubes by smearing them into the dry mix, one small pile at a time, being sure all of the dry ingredients come into contact with the butter. The butter and cheese will break down into flakes to yield a coarse crumble. (You can also do this with a pastry cutter.)

Slowly stream in the heavy cream. Begin to swirl your hand through the mixture, using your fingers to integrate the wet and dry ingredients and do most of the work of bringing the dough together, then give it a quick knead to form a thoroughly incorporated, sticky dough. You may not need all of the cream; start with ¼ cup, adding more as needed. Alternatively, if the mixture is still too dry, add a bit more cream, as needed, 1 tablespoon at a time.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and pat it into a rectangle about ¾-inch thick. Press—without twisting—a 2½-inch biscuit cutter straight down into the dough to cut out rounds, getting as many as you can out of the dough. Pile the scraps on top of each other in layers and pat them out to form another ¾-inch-thick rectangle to cut more rounds, repeating until there is no dough left; you should have at least 4 shortcakes. Layer them between wax paper and place them in a sealed plastic bag or container to chill while you continue cooking.

Place the berries in a large bowl and sprinkle them with the remaining 3 tablespoons granulated sugar. Toss to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 1 to 4 hours.

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

Remove the strawberries from the refrigerator and gently stir in the vanilla seeds and pod to combine. Stir in the balsamic vinegar, and transfer the berries and their juices into a large ovenproof dish or sauté pan. Roast until the juices are bubbling and the berries are hot but not mushy, 6 to 10 minutes. Remove them from the oven, discard the vanilla pod, and cover the dish with aluminum foil to keep warm. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Remove the chilled shortcakes from the refrigerator and transfer them to the prepared baking sheet. Brush each round lightly with heavy cream and, if you like, sprinkle with a pinch of Demerara sugar. Bake until they’re just cooked through and their edges are golden, 20 to 25 minutes.

To assemble, split the shortcakes horizontally, placing a bottom half on each of 4 plates, split-side up. Spoon some of the strawberries over each and top the fruit with a generous dollop of ice cream. Spoon some additional juice from the berries over the ice cream and place the top halves of the shortcakes over each pile. Serve immediately.

RICOTTA
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ORANGE
+
AMARETTI

One should always have bread crumbs around, or something better that can become bread crumbs, like almond-flavored Italian amaretti cookies. Same as docile ricotta and vibrant oranges, they are AC/DC ingredients, which means they can go into sweet and—with some salt, heat, and (where that citrus comes in) acid—savory dishes.

	RICOTTA	ORANGE	AMARETTI
CHARACTER	Milky, gentle, soft	Acidic, sweet, citrus	Sugary, almond, crunchy
SUBSTITUTE	Mascarpone, fromage frais, fromage blanc, quark, cottage cheese	Grapefruit, Meyer lemon, marmalade	Speculoos, gingersnaps, graham crackers, Nilla wafers, animal crackers
TIP	Smoked ricotta is spectacular, if rare. Use it instead of regular ricotta in savory recipes.	Naval isn’t the only orange; give tangerines, clementines, cara caras, or blood oranges a chance!	Find the red tins marked Lazzaroni Amaretti di Saronno, the best-known brand of these macaroons.
COMPLEMENTS	Fresh or roasted fruit, citrus, vanilla, jam	Fennel, winter squash, figs, olives, prunes, dates, vanilla, pork, chicken, duck	Stone fruit, apples, pears, ice cream, fennel, winter squash, sweet potatoes, radicchio, blue cheese, Parmesan

WHOLE-WHEAT PASTA

WITH AMARETTI, ORANGE & RICOTTA

Pasta and macaroons, how could this be!? It’s not an obvious coupling. But if you taste the classic Italian preparation of butter-and-sage-sauced pumpkin-stuffed lune garnished with a grating of Parmesan and amaretti, you’ll be moonstruck. I conveyed the sweet almond-flavored cookies into an understatedly sophisticated chili-hot pasta that’s a lot less work. Its spiciness tempers the sweetness of the amaretti and the orange zest. If you’re heat sensitive, skip this one. And if you enjoy setting your mouth on fire, increase the amount of chili flakes (and try using the smoked varietal, too). Ridged penne is an optimal noodle for this recipe, but it’s not alone. You can experiment with whatever shape you’re into. Keep in mind that grooves and curls catch crumbs and cheese.

serves 4

4½ tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

8 amaretti cookies, roughly crumbled

1¼ teaspoons salt, plus more to taste

1 pound whole-wheat dried penne

2 teaspoons fennel seeds

3 medium shallots, finely chopped (about 1 cup)

1½ teaspoons dried red chili flakes

2 teaspoons orange zest

1 pound fresh whole-milk ricotta cheese (2 cups)

Flake salt, for sprinkling

Best-quality extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling

Fresh oregano leaves, for sprinkling (optional)

Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the amaretti crumbs to coat, and toast, tossing frequently, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and season the crumbs with ¼ teaspoon of the salt, tasting and adjusting as needed. Transfer ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons of the crumbs to a bowl and set aside. (Snack on or discard the rest.) Wipe out the pan and set it aside.

Bring 3 quarts water to a boil in a large pot over high heat. When the water is boiling, salt it. Add the pasta, stirring once right after you put it in the pot and then again, a minute later, to prevent sticking. Cook the pasta until al dente. Reserve ½ cup of the pasta cooking water, then drain the penne.

Meanwhile, heat 1½ tablespoons of the olive oil in the reserved sauté pan over medium heat. When the oil is shimmering, add the fennel seeds and toast until fragrant, stirring once or twice, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the shallots and sauté, stirring frequently, until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in the chili flakes and turn off the heat.

Add the pasta and ¼ cup of the reserved cooking water to the shallots and stir over medium heat to coat, adding a splash or two more of the water as needed to create a light, sauce-like emulsification that evenly coats all of the penne. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and the orange zest. Season with the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, tasting and adjusting as needed. Stir in ¼ cup of the amaretti crumbs to combine, then sprinkle the remaining 2 tablespoons over the top.

To serve, evenly divide the pasta among 4 bowls and top each with a few globs of the fresh ricotta (about ½ cup per portion). Sprinkle the cheese with flake salt and drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil. If you’d like, garnish with oregano leaves or another fresh herb. Serve hot, instructing guests to stir the cheese into the pasta.

RICOTTA GELATO COPPETTA

I’m not sure they have sundaes in Italy. The only Italian versions I’ve had are called coppetta, and they’re scooped in the United States. My made-in-America Italianate composition starts with an eggless ricotta gelato that reminds me of pre-bedtime warm milk. Its creamy comfort is merrily disrupted by the raucous crunch of semi-salty amaretti crumble and the tintinnabulating tartness of orange curd. How much of each component you add is yours to decide. And you don’t need an ice cream maker—just put the gelato base in a very cold metal bowl in the freezer and, after an hour, whisk it every 15 minutes until it has set. If your cheese is extra fresh, you don’t have to turn it into ice cream at all.

serves 6

GELATO

¾ cup heavy cream

1¾ cups whole milk

1 cinnamon stick

¼ cup sugar

3 heaping tablespoons honey

¼ teaspoon pure almond extract

2 teaspoons amaretto liqueur (optional)

⅜ teaspoon kosher salt

1 pound fresh whole-milk ricotta cheese (2 cups)

ORANGE CURD

¾ cup fresh orange juice (from 2 to 3 oranges)

Zest of 1 orange

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 large egg

2 large egg yolks

3 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon honey

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, cubed and softened

Salt to taste

AMARETTI CRUNCH

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup blanched almonds, roughly chopped

2 tablespoons sesame seeds

1 cup crumbled amaretti cookies (about 10 cookies)

¼ teaspoon flake salt, plus more to taste

Make the gelato. Combine the cream, milk, cinnamon stick, sugar, and honey in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring occasionally. When the liquid starts to boil, about 10 minutes, remove the pan from the heat and let it come to room temperature, about 30 minutes.

Strain the cooled mixture through a fine-mesh sieve set over a medium bowl, discarding the cinnamon stick. Stir the almond extract, amaretto (if using), and kosher salt into the liquid. Refrigerate the gelato base in a sealed container for at least 3 hours or overnight.

When the base is chilled, prepare the ricotta. In a large bowl, whisk the ricotta to break up the curds and smooth and soften the overall texture. Take the gelato base from the refrigerator and whisk it into the cheese, breaking up any lumps. Transfer the base to your ice cream maker and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for churning ice cream, noting that gelato should take slightly less time. (Check it after 15 minutes and stop it when the gelato has achieved the consistency of a thick milkshake.) The gelato is best enjoyed the day it’s made, but will keep for at least a week in a sealed container in the freezer.

Make the curd. Heat the orange juice in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a rapid simmer and cook until reduced to ¼ cup, about 7 minutes. Transfer the orange juice to a small bowl to cool to room temperature. Stir in the zest and lemon juice.

In a separate small bowl, whisk together the egg, yolks, sugar, and honey. Whisk the cooled orange juice into the egg mixture in a steady stream.

Pour the egg mixture back into the saucepan over medium heat. Cook, whisking slowly but constantly, being sure to scrape the bottom, until the mixture has thickened to a pudding-like consistency, 5 to 7 minutes (or until a thermometer inserted in the mixture reads 180°F).

Pour the mixture through a strainer set over a small bowl, discarding any solids. Whisk in the butter and salt (up to ¼ teaspoon, tasting and adjusting accordingly). The curd can be refrigerated in a sealed container for up to a week.

Make the amaretti crunch. Heat a large cast-iron skillet on the stove, gradually increasing the heat from low to medium. Add the olive oil. When the oil is shimmering, add the almonds and stir to coat. Toast the nuts, stirring constantly, until fragrant and light golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the sesame seeds, continuing to stir, and cook until fragrant and golden, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the amaretti and stir to incorporate and lightly toast, 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat and season with ¼ teaspoon flake salt, tasting and adjusting as needed. Let cool. Store the crunch in a sealed, paper-towel-lined container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

To assemble, place about 2 spoonfuls of the crunch in the base of a small bowl or coupe-style glass. Add a small scoop of the gelato on top and blanket it with a generous spoonful of curd. Add a second small scoop of gelato and garnish with another 2 spoonfuls or so of the crunch.

SUBSTITUTION NOTE If you don’t have time to make the curd, your favorite, not-too-bitter store-bought orange marmalade will do.

ORANGE-RICOTTA SOUFFLÉ

Soufflés don’t come any easier than this. Neither do cheesecakes. The way I look at it, this soufflé offers a quicker way to make an airier ricotta cheesecake. It’s a lovely, floofy cumulus of a thing that you can serve at a dinner party or bake for your family on a weeknight. Put it in the oven before you sit down to eat, and it will be ready in time for dessert. Just don’t set your expectations too high for its crown; it’s a rustic soufflé and it will rise, but it won’t achieve the “top hat” of a classic French model. Alternatively, while those towering textbook beauties deflate in an instant, this soufflé’s weightier structure allows it to hold its shape and humble height.

serves 4 to 6

Unsalted butter, for greasing

6 amaretti cookies, crushed (about ¼ cup)

¾ pound fresh whole-milk ricotta cheese (1½ cups)

½ cup sugar

½ cup almond flour

⅝ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Zest of 1 orange

5 large egg whites, at room temperature

Preheat the oven to 350°F, placing a rack in the lower third. Grease a 2-quart soufflé dish. Line the prepared dish evenly with the amaretti crumbs.

Stir together the ricotta, sugar, almond flour, salt, vanilla, and orange zest in a medium bowl.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk, beat the egg whites on medium-high speed until they’re firm and form stiff peaks. Using a rubber spatula, gently fold the ricotta mixture into the egg whites, one-third at a time, in a figure-eight shape, while simultaneously spinning the bowl to guide you.

Pour the mixure into the soufflé dish and gently even out the top with a spatula. Bake until the top is set and the edges are beginning to turn golden, or until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean, about 40 minutes.

Serve immediately. Leftover soufflé can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator overnight and is quite good cold.