Spirituous, anise, rich, prickly, aromatic
With lingering flavors of rye and licorice, this kissing cousin to the Old Fashioned is husky and complex. Pair it with pâté or spicy red beans and rice.
This iconic New Orleans mix was originally made with a French brandy (cognac) called Sazerac de Forge et Fils, and the name of that brand rubbed off on the drink. But after the phylloxera outbreak in the 1860s, which wiped out France’s grape vines, cognac became well nigh impossible to procure. In 1873, there was a switch to rye whiskey. Frequently cited as one of the oldest cocktails, the Sazerac is also sometimes ascribed to Antoine Peychaud, an apothecary, who, legend has it, served the drink in a little egg cup called a coquetier–thus, the alleged origin of the word “cocktail.” While a nice story, the word “cocktail” appears in print long before the Sazerac existed.
2 ounces (60 ml) cognac (Pierre Ferrand 1840) or rye whiskey (Sazerac)
1 Demerara sugar cube
2 dashes Peychaud’s bitters
Dash of Angostura bitters
Absinthe, to rinse the glass
Lemon peel, for garnish
Wash a rocks glass with absinthe, discarding any extra. In a mixing glass, drop in the sugar cube, followed by the bitters, and a splash of whiskey to help the sugar dissolve. Add spirit, stir with ice, and strain into the prepared rocks glass. Twist the lemon peel to express the oil over the drink, and drop it into the drink.
VERMOUTH TASTING
Vermouth is a fortified, aromatized wine originally developed for medicinal purposes. The name comes from the German Wermut, translated as “wormwood,” an herb (scientific name Artemisia absinthium) used for the treatment of intestinal parasites. With the birth of the cocktail in the nineteenth century, vermouth became a staple in many mixed drinks, appearing first—according to common belief—in the Manhattan around the 1870s or ’80s and then later in the Martini. Of important note for those interested in historical accuracy, the first vermouths available in the United States were only the Italian sweet variety—it would take until the 1890s for French dry vermouths to make inroads in the U.S. market. Thus, when Jerry Thomas lists “vermouth” as an ingredient, he means the sweet Italian variety. Today, it is often agreed that sweet vermouth goes best with brown liquors, and dry vermouth with clear ones—but this wasn’t the case during the cocktail’s initial development.
Today, vermouth is experiencing a full-blown renaissance with new artisan producers and renewed interest among enthusiasts. Here is a list of flavor notes for vermouths found in this book, along with sample drinks in which to try them.
CARPANO ANTICA: A high-quality Italian sweet vermouth based on an old recipe, Carpano is outstanding in Manhattans and many other cocktails. Drinkable on its own.
Flavor notes: vanilla, clove, caramel, burnt marshmallow
Sample drinks: Manhattan (page 41), Martinez (page 46), Hanky Panky (page 73)
VYA: The first small-batch vermouth in the United States (California), Vya was released in 1999 and has garnered much praise for its complex balance of bitter and sweet. Try it over ice with an orange twist.
Flavor notes: candied fruit, caramel, bitter marmalade
Sample drinks: Rob Roy (page 52), Leap Year (page 73), Manhattan (page 41)
MARTINI & ROSSI ROSSO: This sweet, widely available vermouth can balance intensely bitter cocktails. Delicious alongside a classic American rye whiskey, like Wild Turkey, where its strong oregano and black olive flavors shine through. Its herbaceousness will make you want pizza!
Flavor notes: oregano, fig, raspberry, black olive
Sample drinks: Americano (page 33), Manhattan (page 41)
CINZANO ROSSO: Originally developed by the Cinzano brothers, who ran an herbal shop in Turin back in the 1700s, this sweet vermouth pairs well with Campari—no surprise since the Campari Group now handles its production. It tastes much like tawny port with a bitter finish.
Flavor notes: dried fruit, herbs, quinine, caramel
Sample drinks: Americano (page 33), Manhattan (page 41)
NOILLY PRAT DRY: The innovator of the dry French style, Noilly Prat was created in 1813 in Marseille and was the first dry vermouth to reach American soil. Even though it’s “dry” in style, it’s still rather sweet. It sports a pale golden color with a nutty apricot nose.
Flavor notes: oak, chamomile, lemon peel, stone fruit (apricot pit)
Sample drinks: Negroni (page 91), Marguerite (page 47), Kangaroo (page 123)
DOLIN DRY: One of three styles of vermouth made by the French company Dolin, based in the Savoy region and now the last remaining producer in Chambéry. Dolin is favored by bartenders not only for its quality, but because it is clear and clean, while other dry vermouths can be yellowish and hazy. It’s drier than Noilly Prat, and has a pleasant smell of fresh thyme and yeast.
Flavor notes: bright, clean, crisp, lime, thyme
Sample drinks: Gibson (page 102), Salomé (page 69)
DOLIN BLANC: Blanc is a distinct vermouth style. Clear with a slight golden cast, Dolin Blanc has spearmint on the nose. Sweet and brightly herbaceous.
Flavor notes: spearmint, tarragon, minerals, citrus
Sample drinks: Martini (page 46), Bamboo (page 51), Bijou (page 51)
CARPANO BIANCO: By the same makers as Carpano Antica, this blanc vermouth has a pronounced floral nose and lingering vanilla flavor. It became available in the United States in 2013.
Flavor notes: floral, vanilla, citrus, orange, lemon, spice, bitter
Sample drinks: Bijou (page 51)
PUNT E MES: A bitter style vermouth, which is paradoxically both quite sweet and very bitter.
Flavor notes: bitter herbs, balsamic, prune
Sample drinks: Red Hook (page 135), Negroni (page 91)
IMBUE BITTERSWEET: An American vermouth from Oregon, Imbue was designed to pair with new American gins. It’s noted for its mellow quality and fine balance of bitter and sweet. Highly sippable on its own.
Flavor notes: vanilla, tangerine, lemongrass
Sample drinks: Obituary (page 48), Metropole (page 48)