Sugarcane was introduced to the Caribbean Islands in the seventeenth century, where it was discovered that molasses—a byproduct of the sugar-refining process—could be fermented and distilled. Rum today is still made mostly in the Caribbean and aged primarily in oak whiskey or bourbon barrels. There is a dizzying variety, categorized broadly by color, which is related to age. Light (also called white, clear, or silver) is young and crisp; gold (also called amber) is usually aged, and has spice notes like vanilla imparted by wood; and dark (also called black) is aged in charred barrels and often heavily spiced. The color comes from barrel-aging, or from artificial coloring.
Rum became the spirit of choice in the early American colonies, with the first distillery on record in the United States appearing in 1664 on Staten Island. It became the base of many early drinks, only to be supplanted by whiskey and gin later as they became readily available. Interestingly, it returned to popularity during both Prohibition—when bootlegging brought it to speakeasies—and during WWII, when rationing grain for other liquors made rum a viable and inexpensive alternative.
Old cocktail recipes (and some new ones!) will call for rums based on islands, with the expectation that readers will be familiar with the specific flavor profiles of Barbados or Puerto Rican rums versus those of, say, Jamaica or Martinique. The problem with this method today is that many of the old rums have disappeared, or the profile that islands were once known for have been winnowed down to just a few remaining mass-produced bottlings.
Another way to differentiate rums in terms of flavor is to distinguish between rough, funky, pirate-y rums (Wray & Nephew) and mellower, mainstream styles (Bacardi). So-called “pirate” rums are often made in traditional pot stills and exhibit what is called “hogo,” from the French haut goût (high taste), and have a flavor reminiscent of aged meat.
If you are just starting a bar, three bottles that will make many drinks in this book are listed below:
Light rum: Flor De Caña 4 Yr
Gold rum: Appleton Estate V/X
Black rum: Cruzan Blackstrap
RUM STYLES AND TASTING NOTES
LIGHT (CLEAR, WHITE, SILVER): Light-bodied, crisp, subtle. Think dry sugarcane and vanilla. Wildly versatile, particularly with drinks that feature lime.
(Brands: Flor de Caña 4 Yr, Don Q Cristal, Plantation)
GOLD OR AMBER: Slightly oaky, with flavor notes that can include vanilla, almond, and caramel, making gold a good choice for fruit-based cocktails containing coconut and/or pineapple. Ideal for rum punch.
(Brands: Appleton Special, Appleton V/X, Flor de Caña Gold)
DARK: Mahogany in color from extended aging (at least two years), full-bodied, and heavy on oak and caramel notes. Popular in tiki drinks, especially when mixed with lighter rums to create a layered effect.
(Brands: El Dorado 5 Yr, Zaya 12 Yr, Ron Zacapa 23 Yr)
BLACK: Tar-colored, often due to charred barrels but also from coloring and additional molasses. Heavy flavors of burnt sugar and vanilla. Beware: some exhibit a synthetic taste, particularly those that are spiced.
(Brands: Hamilton Jamaican Pot Still Black Rum, Cruzan Blackstrap)
NAVY STRENGTH OR OVERPROOF: Dark, full-bodied, powerful, often marketed as “151 rum.” Frequently used as a float on top of drinks.
(Brands: Hamilton Demerara Overproof, Smith & Cross, Wray & Nephew, Pusser’s)
RHUM AGRICOLE: A smooth, intricate class of rums, especially good for sipping. Rhum agricole is fermented and distilled from fresh sugarcane juice, rather than molasses, and has grassy notes. Expect wild variation, from aromas of brown butter to apple and earth.
(Brands: Neisson, Clément)
DEMERARA: Produced in Guyana on the northern coast of South America, these rums are rich and often have a smoky complexity.
(Brands: El Dorado, Hamilton)
SPICED OR FLAVORED: Often highly processed and full of fake flavor. These are to rum as Cheez Whiz is to cheese; they do not appear in this book.