Tequila is made from the agave plant, a giant silver-blue succulent with swordlike spikes. To make tequila, the spikes are lopped off and the heart of the plant is steamed (mezcal producers roast the hearts, producing a smoky taste). The hearts are mashed, then fermented. The best tequila is made from 100 percent agave; anything less than 100 percent is a mixture of agave and other sugars (read: a hangover inducer).
Navigating tequilas can be daunting, so it can be helpful to start one’s vision quest at a good bar where a few studious pours can quickly show you the difference in smell, taste, and smoothness between the three basic categories.
TEQUILA STYLES AND TASTING NOTES
BLANCO (WHITE) OR PLATA (SILVER): Refers to young tequila bottled right from the still or shortly after distillation. It is icy clear and tends to be grassy and slightly metallic in taste, if not a little harsh.
(Brands: El Jimador, Herradura)
ANEJO (OLD): Aged for a minimum of twelve months, often in bourbon barrels. These are fine sipping tequilas, amber in color. In 2006, Tequila Extra Anejo (extra aged) appeared on the market, but as you might imagine these bottles are spendy and therefore not the best for mixed drinks.
(Brands: Corralejo, Gran Centenario)
REPOSADO (RESTED): Spends two to eleven months aging in barrels to develop delicate oaky flavors. Its color turns slightly golden, and the taste deepens and softens.
(Brands: Corralejo, Cazadores)
MEZCAL: Tequila’s more rustic cousin. Its earthy, smoky flavor distinguishes it from tequila, and it can be made from a variety of agave plants, whereas tequila must be made from blue agave. It pairs well with citrus, like orange or pineapple, and it loves spice—like in the Mezcalada (page 160) and the Barbacoa (page 145).
(Brand: Del Maguey)