BASICS

RECIPES

PRESERVED LEMON DRESSING

TARRAGON EMULSION

COOKING GRAINS & FRESH & DRIED BEANS

A GUIDE TO SMOKED TOMATOES

ALMOND & ORANGE SPICED CRUMB

DUKKA

HERB SALT

HOUSE VINAIGRETTE

PRESERVED LEMON DRESSING

This dressing can be used for any salad leaves where you need to coat the leaves, for example butter or iceberg lettuce, but also works well mixed in couscous.

3 PRESERVED LEMONS, PEEL ONLY WITH THE WHITE PITH REMOVED

¾ CUP EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

3 TABLESPOONS CHARDONNAY VINEGAR

SALT AND PEPPER

Blitz the preserved lemon peel in a food processor, add the olive oil and vinegar, season with salt and pepper and pulse to combine. This will keep in the fridge for up to 1 month.

TARRAGON EMULSION

MAKES ABOUT 1 CUP

This makes an amazing salad dressing for all sorts of things.

1½ TABLESPOONS DIJON MUSTARD

3 TABLESPOONS CHARDONNAY VINEGAR

2 TABLESPOONS TARRAGON VINEGAR

⅓ CUP GRAPESEED OIL

2 TEASPOONS CHOPPED TARRAGON

Whisk together the mustard, vinegars and oil until emulsified, then stir through the tarragon.

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COOKING GRAINS & FRESH & DRIED BEANS

DRIED BEANS

Soak ½ cup of dried beans in 2 cups of water for 24 hours. Drain and place in a saucepan with 6 cups of water, bring to a boil and cook for 40–45 minutes or until tender. Drain and use as directed in the recipe. Makes 2 cups.

CHICKPEAS (GARBANZOS)

Soak ½ cup of chickpeas in 2 cups of water for 24 hours. Drain and place in a saucepan with 6 cups of water, bring to a boil and cook for 35–45 minutes or until tender. Drain and use as directed in the recipe. Makes 2½ cups.

QUINOA

Bring 4 cups of water to the boil in a saucepan. Add ½ cup quinoa and cook for 10–12 minutes or until the center spiral pops out. Drain and use as directed in the recipe. Makes 1 ½ cups.

PEARL BARLEY, SPELT OR FARRO

Place ½ cup of pearl barley, spelt or farro in a saucepan with 6 cups of water, bring to a boil and cook for 22–26 minutes or until tender. Drain and use as directed in the recipe. Makes 1½ cups.

FREGOLA

Bring 4 cups of water to the boil in a saucepan. Add ½ cup fregola and cook for 8–10 minutes or until tender. Drain and use as directed in the recipe. Makes 1½ cups.

LENTILS

Rinse ½ cup of lentils and place in a saucepan with 4 cups of water. Bring to a boil and cook for 22–26 minutes or until tender. Drain and use as directed in the recipe. Makes 1½ cups.

FREEKAH (CRACKED WHEAT)

Place ½ cup of freekah in a saucepan with 4 cups of water, bring to a boil and cook for 18–22 minutes or until tender. Drain and use as directed in the recipe. Makes 1½ cups.

A GUIDE TO SMOKED TOMATOES

At Pope Joan I buy all my things salted, cured and smoked from two great men: David Snr and David Jnr, grand fellows from the midlands in the UK, who have set up shop in Melbourne. They do all sorts of smoking for me, from bacon and salmon to eggs and yogurt, but it is their smoked tomatoes that rock. Here is David Jnr’s method for homemade cold-smoked tomatoes. Remember, this all depends on how many tomatoes you smoke and the trays you have at home, so it’s not really a recipe but a guide to how to smoke them.

A 8-CUP CAPACITY POT

RIPE PLUM TOMATOES

A BOWL FILLED WITH ICY COLD WATER

SEA SALT, FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER AND SUPERFINE SUGAR

A WIRE RACK

A GOOD HANDFUL OF SMOKING CHIPS

A SKILLET

A ROASTING TRAY THAT THE WIRE RACK FITS IN

SOME FOIL

Preheat the oven to 450°F.

Fill the pot with 4 cups of water, place over high heat and bring to a boil. Take out the white core of the tomatoes, place the tomatoes into the water, leave in for 10 seconds, then scoop out and submerge the tomatoes in the icy cold water. This is called blanching. Now peel the tomatoes, rub with the salt, pepper and sugar, then place on the wire rack.

Put the smoking chips in the skillet and smoke on the stovetop. Once smoking, add to the roasting tray, put the rack over the top, then cover with foil and pierce 5 holes in the foil. Place in the oven for 5 minutes. Take out straight away, then place the tray in the fridge until the tomatoes are cool. You may need to put a tea towel under the tray in the fridge to prevent it from melting your fridge shelves (David left that part out, but don’t worry he’s from Birmingham). Really, that’s it. And you have smoked tomatoes.

ALMOND & ORANGE SPICED CRUMB

MAKES 1 CUP

FINELY GRATED ZEST OF 2 ORANGES

1 TEASPOON COARSELY GROUND BLACK PEPPER

2 JUNIPER BERRIES

½ CUP ORGANIC BLANCHED ALMONDS

2 TEASPOONS SEA SALT

2 TEASPOONS UNREFINED LIGHT BROWN SUGAR

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

Place the orange zest on a plate lined with a piece of parchment paper and put into the microwave set on defrost for about 12 minutes (depending on the power of your microwave). The zest should be completely dried out but it should retain its color and scent.

Place the dried zest, pepper and juniper berries in a mortar and grind to dust.

Roast the almonds in the oven for 4–8 minutes or until they are just tanning, then add to the mortar. Pound the almonds until they are about the size of a grain of rice, then stir through the salt and brown sugar.

Note I use this spice mix in my blanched white asparagus with ricotta and Belgian endive (see recipe) but it’s also delicious on numerous other vegetables, such as broccoli and leeks, or try a little on a roasted chicken or a simple poached fish dish. It will keep for up to 6 months in a tightly sealed jar in your pantry.

DUKKA

MAKES 1 CUP

Do you know why it’s better to toast spices? To release the natural oils within them, which promotes their beautiful aroma and taste. The best way to do this is in a flat-based skillet over low heat, shaking the pan all the time. As soon as you see any signs of smoke or steam coming from the spices, take the pan off the heat and tip the spices into a bowl to cool quickly. They are now ready to use.

⅔ CUP HAZELNUTS

2 TEASPOONS WHITE PEPPERCORNS

1 TABLESPOON CORIANDER SEEDS, TOASTED

1 TABLESPOON SESAME SEEDS, TOASTED

2 TEASPOONS GROUND CUMIN, TOASTED

1 ½ TABLESPOONS SEA SALT

1 TABLESPOON UNREFINED LIGHT BROWN SUGAR

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Roast the hazelnuts for 5–10 minutes. Place in a tea towel and rub off the skins while still warm.

Place the hazelnuts in a mortar and grind to break up, then add the peppercorns and coriander seeds and grind to a milled pepper consistency. Now stir through the rest of the ingredients and store in an airtight container until needed. This will store well for a good few months.

HERB SALT

MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

If herb salt was a lady it would be Rita Hayworth: timeless, elegant and beautifully tasty. This must become one of your kitchen pantry basics—on hand, all the time, to give that extra bit of finesse to a dish.

⅔ CUP VEGETABLE OIL

5⅔ OUNCES ROSEMARY, OREGANO AND SAGE LEAVES

⅔ CUP SEA SALT

Gently heat the oil in a shallow saucepan over medium heat to 325°F. Add the herbs and deep fry for 7–10 minutes or until crispy. Turn off the heat and scoop out the herbs onto a tray lined with lots of paper towels. Take the herbs off the towel and dry again on a tea towel. Place into a mortar with the salt and finely crush all together. Keep in an airtight container for up to 6 months and use just as you would any normal salt.

Note Ever wondered what to do with those left-over herbs like parsley and basil that are just withering at the bottom of your fridge. Hey presto, here you go. Just use them up to make this salt to avoid wasting them. When you use soft-leaved herbs gently fry them for a little less time, 3–4 minutes, say.

HOUSE VINAIGRETTE

MAKES 4 CUPS

This is my basic dressing for many salads. Once made, store in empty washed out wine bottles, topped with a cork and it will keep for a few months.

2 CUPS EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL

1 ½ CUPS SUNFLOWER OIL

⅓ CUP CHARDONNAY VINEGAR

⅓ CUP TARRAGON VINEGAR

10 TURNS OF WHITE PEPPER FROM A MILL

1 PINCH OF SALT

3 GARLIC CLOVES, LIGHTLY CRUSHED

4 SPRIGS TARRAGON

Whisk everything together and pour into bottles. Make sure you give it a good shake before using.

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