Early chowder recipes call for everything from beer to ketchup, but not milk. What we know as New England chowder dates from the mid-nineteenth century. One of the greatest convenience foods on the market is shucked and pre-minced quahog or cherrystone clams; you’ll find them in the seafood department.
Soup:
1 pint fresh chopped clams
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, divided
2 medium onions, diced
2 celery ribs, sliced
1 (8-ounce) bottle clam juice
2 medium red potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 cups whole milk
1 cup heavy cream or half-and-half
Fritters:
1 large egg
3/4 cup whole milk
11/2 cups all-purpose flour
11/2 teaspoons baking powder
2 scallions, white parts only, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 cups vegetable oil for frying
1. For soup, drain clams in a sieve over a bowl, reserving juice in the bowl. Press down with the back of a spoon to extract as much liquid as possible from clams. Refrigerate clams until ready to use.
2. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onions and celery, and cook, stirring frequently, for 3 minutes, or until onions are translucent. Add bottled clam juice and reserved clam juice to the pan, along with potatoes, parsley, bay leaf, and thyme. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, covered, for 12 minutes, or until potatoes are tender.
3. While mixture simmers, melt remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan over low heat. Stir in flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 minutes. Raise the heat to medium and whisk in milk. Bring to a boil, whisking frequently, and simmer for 2 minutes. Stir thickened milk into the pot with vegetables, and add cream. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, uncovered, for 3 minutes. Remove and discard bay leaf, season to taste with salt and pepper, and keep hot.
4. While vegetables simmer, make clam fritters. Combine egg and milk in a mixing bowl, and whisk well. Add flour and baking powder, and whisk well. Stir in reserved clams and scallions, and season to taste with salt and pepper.
5. Preheat the oven to 150°F. Line a baking sheet with paper towels. Heat oil in a deep-sided saucepan over medium-high heat to a temperature of 375°F. Drop fritter batter by 1-tablespoon amounts into hot oil, and fry for 2 to 3 minutes, or until golden brown, turning as necessary with a slotted spoon. Remove fritters, and drain on paper towel–lined baking sheet. Place fritters in the oven, and repeat until all batter is fried.
6. To serve, ladle soup into bowls, and top each serving with fritters.
Note: The soup can be made up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated, tightly covered. Reheat it over low heat, covered. Do not make fritters until just before serving.