The Atua Man: A Novel

The fifth day out of Papeete, the Mata‘i pulled into the quay at the atoll of Manihi. Larry had planned to pass Manihi and spend the night at the next atoll along the route, to be closer to the Marquesas, but the winds picked up and shifted to the east. Larry made the decision to duck into the safety of Manihi in the afternoon when the island was abeam. He didn’t want to push his luck with the weather. The way the wind was acting, Larry didn’t think they’d make the next island until dusk, and to approach the pass after dark was too dangerous.

There were no other boats at the quay so Mata‘i tied up to the concrete wharf. The current through the pass was swift, almost four knots, and the boys doubled up the mooring lines. Larry ordered his crew to stay with the boat while he found the village leader to announce their arrival. Custom and protocol required visiting yachts to register with the local government representative—show their papers, sign the mayor’s logbook, and pay proper respect to the village chief.

Mata‘i spent the night at Manihi and left the following morning heading to Fatu Hiva, the southernmost Marquesan island, about six hundred miles away, an estimated four to five-day sail. The wind kept pushing the boat further north, so Larry tacked and spent the day sailing south-south-east hoping the front would pass quickly and they’d catch the returning trade winds and ride them up to Fatu Hiva. That didn’t happen.

Larry’s mood changed with the weather. It was overcast, windy and hot, and the new tack took the boat toward the atoll of Takaroa, a dangerous island that had a history of eating ships. After sailing most of the day and making less than fifty miles toward the Marquesas, Larry decided to pull in to Takaroa before dark. Again, the Mata‘i moored along the wharf in the pass where the current was strong, and the guys doubled up the lines again.