Chapter 7

The Rhône

Northern Rhône

Southern Rhône

The 1st century naturalist Pliny the Elder noted that, in the region of Vienne, the tribe of the Allobroges produced and exported a highly prized wine. After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, Rhodanian viticulture fell into long-term decline, only to be revived from 1308 when Clement V migrated the papal court to Avignon. His successor John XXII did much to improve viticultural practices, and wines from the area came to be known as ‘Vin du Pape’ and, after John erected his famous castle, ‘Châteauneuf-du-Pape’. The Babylonian captivity of the Bishop of Rome also benefited Burgundy: when Petrarch wrote to Urban V pleading for his return to Rome, the pontiff replied that the best Burgundy did not percolate south of the Alps.

In the 15th and 16th centuries, Lyon and its hinterland began to prosper. However, from 1446, Burgundy banned Rhône wines on the grounds that they were très petits et pauvres, effectively restricting access to northern markets. In the 17th and 18th centuries, Rhône wines began to develop a reputation in Paris and London, so much so that top Bordeaux producers such as Château Lafite took to enriching their wines with Hermitage. Some of these blends came to fetch even higher prices than their thinner counterparts.

In the wake of the phylloxera epidemic, quality plummeted, and the practice of passing off inferior wine as Châteauneuf-du-Pape became depressingly common. By 1880, only 200 hectares of vines remained in the entire appellation. In 1924, Baron Le Roy of Château Fortia founded the syndicat des vignerons de Châteauneuf-du-Pape and, in 1929, the syndicat des Côtes-du-Rhône. In 1933, he succeeded in defining and delimiting the appellation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, thereby restoring the quality and reputation of the wines. In that same year, he co-founded the Académie du vin de France, and, in 1935, together with former agriculture minister Joseph Capus, the Institut national des appellations d’origine (INAO), which did for France what Le Roy had done for Châteauneuf.

The Northern Rhône had also suffered a severe decline, only to be revived in the late 20th century by such figures as Marcel Guigal and Robert Parker. Back in 1982, Condrieu counted a mere 14ha of vines, versus ~135ha today, and those 14ha contained most of the world’s Viognier! Still today, compared to Burgundy and especially Bordeaux, the Rhône retains a rustic and agrarian feel.

The Northern Rhône

The entire Rhône region is defined and united by the River Rhône, which arises in the Swiss Alps, drives into and out of Lake Geneva, and veers south to carve out the Rhodanian corridor, or couloir rhodanien, a valley that separates the Alps from the Massif Central. The Northern Rhône, or secteur septentrional, stretches ~80km from Vienne in the north to Valence in the south. This area differs significantly in climate, topography, and geology from the Southern Rhône, or secteur méridional, which stretches ~70km from Montélimar in the north to Avignon in the south. The Northern and Southern Rhône are not contiguous, and there is a gap of ~30km between them.

The Northern Rhône, where the river valley is steep and narrow, is much more dramatic than the Southern Rhône, with terraced vineyards that can only be worked by hand. The subsoil consists of granite and gneiss and the topsoil is sparse and prone to erosion by heavy rains. Most of the appellations of the Northern Rhône lie on the western (east-facing) slope: all, in fact, but Hermitage and Crozes-­Hermitage, which lie on the eastern slope, just north of Valence and the confluence with the River Isère. In some areas, plantings reach into lateral valleys which offer shelter from the full force of the Mistral, a cold, dry gale that picks up speed as it funnels down the Rhodanian corridor. Winters are cold and summers warm, but tempered by the Mistral and less hot than in the Southern Rhône.

The Northern Rhône accounts for only a small fraction of the total production of the Rhône, which, after Bordeaux, is the second largest quality region of France. Despite this, it is home to some of the region’s most celebrated wines. Except in the small white wine appellations of Condrieu, Château-Grillet, and Saint-Péray, red wines predominate, and are made of Syrah or a majority blend of Syrah with one or two of three white wine grapes: Viognier, Roussanne, and Marsanne. Of the red wines, Côte-Rôtie can be blended with up to 20% Viognier, Crozes-Hermitage and Hermitage with up to 15% Marsanne and Roussanne, and Saint-Joseph with up to 10% Marsanne and Roussanne. Cornas, in contrast, cannot be blended, and is invariably 100% Syrah. Of the white wines, Condrieu and Château-Grillet are made from Viognier; and Saint-Péray and the white wines of Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, and Saint-Joseph are made from Marsanne and Roussanne. There are no rosés in the Northern Rhône.

Hermitage

Hermitage is the grandest appellation of the Northern Rhône and the spiritual home of Syrah. The name ‘Syrah’ has given rise to much speculation about distant and exotic origins, but DNA typing has revealed it to be an offspring of Dureza and Mondeuse Blanche. According to legend, the Chevalier de Stérimberg returned wounded from the Cathar Crusade, and was granted permission by Blanche of Castile, Queen consort of France, to build a small refuge and chapel in which to eke out his days as a hermit. This hermitage lent its name to the appellation, which rises from Tain l’Hermitage and runs along the southern aspect of a steep granite hill that captures the best part of the sun’s heat. The appellation, which stands at a mere 154ha (cf. Château Lafite, 107ha), is divided into a number of climats; and traditional Hermitage, such as that of JL Chave, is a blend from several of these climats. Hermitage is dark, full-bodied, and tannic, with intense aromas of soft black fruits accompanied by red fruits, smoke, black pepper and spice, leather, cocoa, and coffee. After about ten years, it develops a certain sweetness of fruit and gamey complexity. Significant new oak ageing is more the exception than the rule. The best examples from top vintages, such as the famous La Chapelle 1961, keep for decades, and very old Hermitage can be very difficult to distinguish from top claret of a similar age. White Hermitage, which is mostly Marsanne, is rich yet textural and mineral, and with age develops complex notes of honey, wax, and hazelnuts. In some years, Chapoutier also makes a straw wine, which, owing to scarcity, fetches very high prices. Other top producers of Hermitage include Bernard Faurie, Delas Frères, Ferraton, Remizières, and Marc Sorrel.

Crozes-Hermitage

Compared to Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage and Saint-Joseph are large appellations which, taken together, account for most of the production of the Northern Rhône. Crozes-Hermitage stretches across eleven villages centred on Tain-l’Hermitage. Over 90% of production consists of unblended red wines, which are generally softer and fruitier than Hermitage. The best examples are complex and full-bodied and similar to Hermitage, and can offer good value for money. However, wines from vineyards on flatter land, or made by semi-carbonic maceration, are usually less impressive. Among the best Crozes-Hermitage are Domaine de Thalabert, Les Chassis, and the offerings of Alain Graillot. The co-operative Cave de Tain is very important in Crozes-Hermitage, as is Jaboulet.

Saint-Joseph

The heart of Saint-Joseph lies around the communes of Tournon, on the right bank opposite Tain l’Hermitage, and Mauves, a bit further south—indeed, Saint-Joseph used be called vin de Mauves. Today, the appellation is named for the vineyard of Saint-Joseph, itself named for the patron saint of manual labour and scorned husbands. After the creation of the appellation in 1956, the area under vine expanded six-fold, with the result that Saint-Joseph is just as variable as Crozes-Hermitage. The grapes ripen less fully than in Hermitage across the river, resulting in lighter wines with notes of black fruits and pepper. Saint-Joseph is mostly intended for early drinking.

Côte-Rôtie

Hermitage is sometimes described as masculine, and compared and contrasted with the feminine wines of Côte-Rôtie, which lies in the area of Ampuis, right up in the north of the Northern Rhône. Owing to a bend in the river, the vineyards face south-east on a slope that is even steeper than in Hermitage. Aspect and incline combine to maximize sun exposure, whence the name Côte-Rôtie (‘Roasted Slope’). The site is also protected from the Mistral, more properly called la bise in the Northern Rhône and ‘Mistral’ in the Southern Rhône. Though they can be destructive, these winds reduce rot, pests, and disease. Côte-Rôtie is subdivided into two main areas, the Côte Brune on dark, iron-rich schist, and the Côte Blonde on pale granite and schist. According to legend, the areas were named for the brown- and blonde-haired daughters of a local lord. Just like those girls, the wines have their own characters, with Côte Brune more tannic and full-bodied and Côte Blonde softer and more elegant. Traditionally, Côte-Rôtie was often a blend of Côte Brune and Côte Blonde, but in recent years there has been a trend towards single vineyard wines. It is above all the single vineyard wines of Guigal, namely, La Mouline, La Landonne, and La Turque, which, in the early 1980s, led to the revival of the appellation and region. Côte-Rôtie is either 100% Syrah or a blend of Syrah and a small amount (typically ~5%) of Viognier, which some say imparts a floral fragrance to the wine. Côte-Rôtie marries power and finesse, with a complex nose of raspberry, blueberry, plum, bacon, green olives, violets, and leather. Other than Guigal, top producers include Yves Cuilleron, Yves Gangloff, Jamet, Jasmin, Nicolas Perrin, Michel and Stéphane Ogier, and René Rostaing.

Cornas

At the other end of the Northern Rhône, south of Saint-Joseph, lies the highly regarded appellation of Cornas, which is smaller even than Hermitage. ‘Cornas’ is Celtic for ‘burnt earth’, cf. Côte-Rôtie. The land forms a natural amphitheatre which gathers sunlight and protects against the bise. Cornas is invariably 100% Syrah, as the appellation does not encompass white wines and blending is not permitted. The wines are fuller and richer than Crozes-Hermitage or Saint-Joseph, and more rustic and robust than Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie. The fresher and more fruit-forward style of Cornas pioneered by Jean-Luc Colombo can be drunk earlier than traditional Cornas of the sort championed by Auguste Clape, the icon of the appellation. Other top producers include Alain Voge, Thierry Allemand, and Noel Verset.

Condrieu, Château-Grillet, and Saint-Péray

The white wines of the Northern Rhône (which also include white Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage, and Saint-Joseph), though relatively scarce, often make an appearance in blind tasting exams and competitions.

Condrieu is a small, white wine appellation entirely given to Viognier. It extends south from Côte-Rôtie on steepish slopes with a south and south-eastern aspect. The best areas are those in which the soil includes a fine layer of arzelle, which consists of decomposed chalk, flint, and mica. The essence of Condrieu is a pronounced perfume of candied peach, apricot, orange blossom, anise, acacia, and violets; a full, almost oily body; and high alcohol. Modern Condrieu is usually dry, although the richness and high alcohol can lead to an impression of sweetness. Acidity is not as high as for Chardonnay and can be distinctly low. Oak is usually absent, although there is more and more of it around. Condrieu ought to be drunk within the first three years of release, before it loses its freshness and perfume.

At the southern end of Condrieu lies the enclave of Château-Grillet, a mere 4ha of a soil that is lighter and more fragmented than in Condrieu. This too is a land of Viognier, planted in a natural granite amphitheatre which, as in Cornas, gathers sunlight and protects against the bise. Château-Grillet is a monopole and there is just the one wine, matured in oak for up to 24 months before being entered into signature brown bottles. The wine is more Burgundian than Condrieu: drier, lighter, more delicate, less perfumed, and oaked. It can improve over a decade or more.

The last appellation in the Northern Rhône is Saint-Péray, which is, again, a very small appellation. It lies at the southern end of the region, across the river from Valence. In stark contrast to Condrieu, Saint-Péray is typically light and acidic, although the best examples can be gently floral. Sparkling traditional method blends of Marsanne and Roussanne still account for almost half of the appellation’s output.

Stronger vintages in the Northern Rhône include 1990, 1991, 1995, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2003, 2005, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2013, and 2015.

The Southern Rhône

In the Southern Rhône, the Rhodanian corridor opens up into a rugged landscape with sheltered valleys and diverse mesoclimates. The macroclimate is Mediterranean with mild winters and hot and dry summers. Drought is a perennial problem. Rather than orchards as in the Northern Rhône, vineyards are interspersed with olive groves, lavender fields, and garrigue (Mediterranean scrubland). Some of the best vineyards are on alluvial deposits overlain by polished stones called galets, which reflect sunlight, store solar heat, and improve drainage and water retention.

Unlike the Northern Rhône, which is dominated by its eight crus, the Southern Rhône puts out a great deal of modest Côtes-du-Rhône and IGP-Vin de Pays. There are also a number of satellite appellations such as Côtes du Ventoux and Côtes du Luberon, which are not dissimilar to Côtes-du-Rhône. The only appellation of the Southern Rhône that can compete with the likes of Hermitage and Côte-Rôtie is Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is a blend of up to 13 grape varieties, eight black and five white. In contrast, the entire Northern Rhône counts just four grape varieties (Syrah, Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne). Other notable cru appellations of the Southern Rhône include Gigondas, Vacqueyras, and Tavel.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Châteauneuf-du-Pape churns out more wine than the entire Northern Rhône. Its ~3,200ha stretch across an undulating plateau on the left bank of the Rhône, from Orange in the north to Sorgues in the south. The other three communes of the appellation are Courthézon, Bédarrides, and, largest of all, Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Of the 134 lieu-dits, the most famous is La Crau, which is principally held by Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe. The soils are varied. La Crau, for instance, is rich in galets deposited by Alpine glaciers and polished by the Rhône over the millennia. Although closely associated with the appellation, galets are by no means ubiquitous or indeed essential to great Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Some 95% of production is red and the remaining 5% is white. Château de Beaucastel takes great pride in growing and blending each and every one of the 13 permitted varieties, but many producers use just three or four, typically Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and Cinsault. Some, most notably Château Rayas, use only Grenache. Unlike in the Northern Rhône, the vines are typically trained in bush, or gobelet, for greater resistance to wind and drought. Some of the vines are over one hundred years old. Grenache accounts for over 70% of plantings, Syrah for 10%, and Mourvèdre for 7%. Syrah typically brings colour and spice to a blend, while Mourvèdre contributes structure and elegance. Grenache, which is prone to oxidation, is vinified in large cement tanks. The other varieties are most commonly vinified in wood. The wines may be matured in tanks, barriques, demi-muids, or foudres.

Red Châteauneuf is medium to deep ruby in colour, with notes of red and black fruits, game, tar, leather, and garrigue. On the palate, it is rich and spicy, with dusty or powdery tannins and a higher alcohol and lower acidity than Bordeaux or Hermitage. Significant new oak ageing is more the exception than the rule. The wine can be tight in its youth but softens and opens up after about seven years, and can improve for several more years, sometimes decades. Vinification by carbonic maceration or semi-carbonic maceration results in a lighter, earlier drinking style. White Châteauneuf—which can be made from Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Roussanne, Picpoul, and Picardin—ranges in style from lean and mineral to rich and oily, and is difficult to generalize about.

Top producers of Châteauneuf-du-Pape other than those already mentioned include Clos des Papes, Château La Nerthe, Domaine de la Janasse, and Domaine du Pegaü. Stronger vintages in Châteauneuf-du-Pape include 1990, 1995, 1998, 2000, 2001, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, and 2015.

Gigondas and Vacqueyras

Gigondas ranks second in prestige in the southern Rhône and can be very similar to Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The town of Gigondas, founded by the Romans for the recreation of the soldiers of the Second Legion (Lat. jocunditas, pleasure, enjoyment), lies at the foot of the picturesque Dentelles de Montmirail. This small chain of mountains divides the appellation’s 1,200ha into two distinct areas, one being cooler than the other. Most of the production is red wine, with the rest being rosé. Red Gigondas is typically heavy in Grenache (up to 80% of the blend), but also contains a minimum of 15% Syrah and/or Mourvèdre and a maximum of 10% of other Rhône varieties. Gigondas is rich and powerful, and more rustic and animally than Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The best examples can improve for around a decade.

If Gigondas can be thought of as junior Châteauneuf-du-Pape, then nearby Vacqueyras can be thought of as junior Gigondas. The best vineyards of the 1,400ha appellation are on the Plateau de Garrigues. As in Gigondas, most of the production is red wine, although small amounts of rosé and white wine are also made. Vacqueyras typically consists of at least 50% Grenache (so often less Grenache than Gigondas), along with smaller proportions of Syrah, Mouvèdre, and Carignan.

Tavel

Across the river from Châteauneuf-du-Pape lies the commune and appellation of Tavel, which, uniquely in the Rhône, produces only rosé. In the course of history, Tavel has found favour with, among others, the Avignon popes, Louis XIV, Balzac, and Hemingway. The principal elements in the blend are Grenache and Cinsault, although eight further varieties are also permitted. The rosé is made by the saignée (bleeding) method, which involves ‘bleeding off’ some of the juice from the must to concentrate colour and phenolics. Extended skin contact during fermentation imparts additional colour and tannin to the must. Tavel ought to be drunk chilled. At best, it is full-bodied and structured on the one hand, and bone-dry and refreshing on the other. Alcohol is high, at around 13.5%. Tavel is often drunk young but, unusually for a rosé, can improve for several years.

Côtes-du-Rhône

The discussion so far has focused on cru wines, which also include Lirac, Rasteau, Beaumes de Venise, and Vinsobres in the Southern Rhône. However, much of the wine produced in the Rhône falls under the more modest generic appellation of Côtes-du-Rhône, which remains of tremendous commercial importance. In principle, the AOP can apply to red, rosé, and white wine from anywhere from Vienne to south of Avignon, so long as the alcohol is 11% or more and the yield does not exceed 52hl/ha (vs. 35hl/ha for Châteauneuf-du-Pape). In the main production area south of Montélimar, the appellation rules stipulate a minimum of 40% Grenache and a combined minimum of 70% Grenache, Syrah, and Mouvèdre. There is also a more restricted higher appellation of Côtes-du-Rhone Villages with stricter regulations for alcohol levels, yields, and varieties. Within this higher appellation, a certain number of villages can also display their name on the label, for example, CAIRANNE, APPELLATION COTES-DU-RHONE VILLAGES PROTEGEE. A significant amount of Côtes-du-Rhone is made by carbonic maceration, and some of that is released en primeur to compete with Beaujolais Nouveau. Côtes-du-Rhone wines are very diverse, and the best, which are getting better, can offer astounding value for money.