Chapter 9

The Loire

Western Loire

Eastern Loire

The diversity of wines made in the Loire reflects variations in soils, climate, and grape varieties along the course of the River Loire. The bulk of production consists of white wines made from Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Melon de Bourgogne (Muscadet), but there are also red wines made from Cabernet Franc, and rosé, sparkling, and dessert wines. In the 1st century, the Romans brought the vine to the Loire from the nearby regions of Bordeaux and Burgundy. The 4th century bishop Saint Martin of Tours is credited with spreading viticulture across the region. According to legend, his tethered donkey stripped some nearby vines of their leaves, thereby establishing the practice of pruning! Proximity to Paris and the Atlantic greatly facilitated trade. In the High Middle Ages, Englishmen held the wines of the Loire in higher esteem than those of Bordeaux. Today, this most French of French regions is unfairly neglected, and, for this reason, can offer great value for money.

The lie of the land

The Loire comprises 70,000ha of vines spread across ~500km and 14 administrative départements, from Muscadet near Nantes on the Atlantic coast to Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé to the south-east of Orléans in north central France. Sancerre is in fact closer to Burgundy than to Muscadet, not only in terms of distance but also of climate and culture. The Loire can be divided into four sections, from west to east along the river: The Nantais, Anjou-Saumur, Touraine, and Centre. The Nantais is mostly given to Melon de Bourgogne, Anjou-Saumur and Touraine to Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc, and Centre to Sauvignon Blanc.

Climate

The climate at this northerly latitude is distinctly marginal. Viticulture owes to the moderating influence of the Loire and tributaries, along which the vineyards are huddled. The most prized sites are south-facing riverbank slopes that make the most of the sunlight and riverine mesoclimate. The mild and humid Atlantic climate of the Nantais contrasts with the continental climate of the Centre, with its cold winters and hot but short summers. Anjou is protected from the prevailing winds by the forests of the Vendée, and receives less rainfall than might otherwise be expected. Spring frosts and sustained autumn rains are all too common in the Loire, and vintage variation can be marked. Under-ripeness is a perennial problem. I hold it on good authority that the town of Amboise, just to the east of Tours and once home to Leonardo da Vinci, is the climatic turning point of the Loire, with, to the west, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc, and, to the east, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir.

Soils

Soils are extremely varied, as might be expected in a region that stretches over 500km. The soils of the Nantais are mostly sand with areas of clay, granite, schist, and gneiss; those of Anjou are mostly stony clay over schist; and those of Touraine are mostly flinty clay over limestone. The soils of Centre resemble those of Chablis, with areas of limestone, chalk, and Kimmeridgian clay. In Saumur and Vouvray, the soils consist of tuffeau, a soft, free-draining, water-retaining calcareous rock. Tuffeau jaune, found in Chinon and Bourgueil, is sandier and softer than tuffeau blanc and especially suited to Cabernet Franc. The quarrying of tuffeau (mainly tuffeau blanc) to build the famous châteaux of the Loire gave rise to systems of caves that provide ideal conditions for wine storage and maturation.

Wine styles

The Loire can be thought of as a ribbon with crisp white wines at either end (Muscadet and Sancerre) and fuller-bodied white and red wines in the middle. The white wines tend to be made from Muscadet in the west, Sauvignon Blanc in the east, and Chenin Blanc in the middle. For red wines, Cabernet Franc is dominant, but Pinot Noir and Gamay become increasingly important further up-river. There are however a number of trend-breakers, such as Cour-Cheverny in Touraine which is entirely planted with the obscure Romorantin grape. Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Grolleau are also commonly planted. Generally speaking, the wines of the Loire are improving, but too many examples are made from overcropped, under-ripe grapes to be served by the glass in Parisian cafés. Chaptalization is widely practised, and can somewhat compensate for under-ripeness. Barrel ageing, especially in new oak, is uncommon.

Sweet wines made from late harvest Chenin Blanc, which may be botrytized, are capable of great complexity and longevity. The most notable appellations for sweet wines are Vouvray and Coteaux du Layon with its sub-appellations of Bonnezeaux, Chaume, and Quarts-de-Chaume. Compared to Sauternes, which is typically associated with peach and honey, the sweet wines of the Loire are more often associated with apple, quince, and apricot, together with a much higher natural acidity and rather less sugar and alcohol.

The Loire is an important producer of sparkling wines, third only to Champagne and Alsace. The most significant among these is Crémant de Loire, which is made by the traditional method (Chapter 11). Most Crémant de Loire is vinified in and around Saumur from blends of Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc, and Chardonnay, although a number of other traditional varieties are also permitted. Appellation rules call for manual harvesting and a minimum ageing period of one year (compared to nine months for, say, Saumur Mousseux). At its best, Crémant de Loire is long and complex with a floral, honeyed nose and nutty finish.

The Nantais: Muscadet

Muscadet is made from Melon de Bourgogne, a frost-resistant and early-ripening grape variety that came to dominate the area in the aftermath of the Great Frost of 1709. Of the three sub-regional appellations, Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine AOP is by far the most important. Melon de Bourgogne is fairly neutral, and lees ageing (sur lie) is often used to bring out greater flavour and texture, as is lees stirring and extended maceration. To drive up quality and combat the dramatic decline of the appellation, nine crus communaux, starting with Gorges, Clisson, and Le Pallet, are being established, and call for longer periods of lees ageing. Some producers are also experimenting with barrel fermentation or ageing, leading to a diversity of styles.

Muscadet is pale, sometimes almost watery, in colour, with a slight effervescence that can prickle on the tongue. On the nose, it is distinctly unaromatic. On the palate, it is dry and light-bodied with high acidity and a touch of minerality or saltiness. Lees ageing contributes yeasty or nutty aromas and a rounder texture. Under AOP regulations, alcohol content is capped at 12%, the only instance of a maximum alcohol stipulation in France. Although the sur lie process helps to preserve freshness, most Muscadet is not intended for ageing. However, the finest examples can improve over many years and exhibit great depth and complexity, with notes such as smoke, honey, and dried papaya.

Top producers include Domaine de la Pépière, Luneau-Papin, Domaines ­Landron, Chéreau-Carré, Vincent Caillé, André-Michel Brégeon, Bruno ­Cormerais, and Domaine de L’Ecu, where maverick Fred Niger is doing much more than making Muscadet. If you want to remember Muscadet, try it with (very fresh) oysters. 2012 is a superlative vintage.

Anjou: Savennières, Coteaux du Layon

Anjou is associated with a broad spectrum of wines. Particularly notable are the dry Chenin Blanc of Savennières and the sweet, often botrytized Chenin Blanc of Coteaux du Layon and more particularly of Bonnezeaux and Chaume and Quarts-de-Chaume.

Historically, Savennières was sweet, but today the bulk of production is dry. Indeed, it is arguably the highest expression of dry Chenin Blanc, noted for its concentration of flavour, mineral intensity, and age worthiness. The crus of Savennières-Roche-aux-Moines AOP and Savennières Coulée-de-Serrant AOP are enclaves of Savennières AOP. Coulée-de-Serrant, first planted in 1130 by Cistercian monks and prized by Dumas’s d’Artagnan, is a monopole that belongs to biodynamic beacon Nicolas Joly of Château de la Roche aux Moines, who describes himself on his business card as a ‘Nature assistant and not wine maker’. Savennières is gold in colour with concentrated notes of apple, pear, chamomile, warm straw, cooked fruits, beeswax, grilled almonds, and, with age, old cognac (musty lanolin, ‘wet dog’) and petrol. On the palate, it is dry and unoaked with high acidity and alcohol and a long mineral finish capped by a bitter afternote. Caveat emptor: although fuller in body than dry Vouvray, Savennières can be austere and unapproachable in its youth. Some producers favour malolactic conversion or maturation in new oak, leading to a diversity of styles. Other than Joly, top producers include Domaine du Closel, Damien Laureau, Domaine des Baumard, Domaine de la Bergerie, and Domaine Eric Morgat.

The River Layon has carved out a valley that encourages the development of noble rot, although some grapes are simply very ripe or encouraged to dry on the vine (passerillage). Successive pickings at harvest time ensure that all the grapes are bursting with sugar, acidity, and flavour. Within Coteaux du Layon AOP, six villages can append their name to that of the appellation or, alternatively, use the name ‘Coteaux du Layon-Villages’. A further two villages—Bonnezeaux and Chaume—have their own separate appellations, which are in effect sub-appellations of Coteaux du Layon. There is also a third sub-appellation, Quarts-de-Chaume AOP, for a sun-kissed enclave of Chaume in the shape of an amphitheatre. The mesoclimate here is such that it is possible to ripen olives! Most of the land of Quarts-de-Chaume used to belong to the abbey of Ronceray d’Angers, which required tenant farmers to pay a tithe of one-quarter of annual production, whence ‘Quarts-de-Chaume’. Compared to Vouvray, Coteaux du Layon tends to be fuller in body, sweeter, and lower in acidity. Coteaux de l’Aubance, along the River Aubance to the north, produces wines in a similar style. As with Coteaux du Layon, there is considerable variation in botrytis, sweetness, and quality. Top producers include Château Pierre-Bise, Domaine Patrick Baudouin, Domaine des Baumard, Domaine Philippe Delesvaux, and Château Soucherie.

Rosé wines account for over half of Angevine production. First among them is Cabernet d’Anjou AOP, made from Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Compared to Rosé d’Anjou, which is made predominantly from Grolleau, Cabernet d’Anjou tends to be drier with higher alcohol and greater complexity and ageing potential.

With the exception of Anjou-Gamay AOP, red wines are all made from Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Saumur-Champigny AOP is very similar to neighbouring Chinon AOP and Bourgueil AOP, both in Touraine.

Touraine: Vouvray, Chinon

The most notable appellations in Touraine are Vouvray and Montlouis for white wines, and Chinon, Bourgueil, and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil for red wines.

Vouvray AOP, on the right bank of the Loire just to the east of Tours, produces dry and sweet Chenin Blanc. A number of streams cut through the plateau of Vouvray, giving rise to sheltered south-facing slopes and promoting the development of noble rot. In more favourable vintages, production shifts to sweet and botrytized wines; in cooler, unfavourable vintages, it shifts to dry and sparkling or semi­-­sparkling wines (which however may also be sweet). Sparkling Vouvray is made by the traditional method, and can be either pétillant (semi-sparkling) or mousseux (fully sparkling). The harvest often lasts into November, with successive pickings required for the sweet wines. Compared to Coteaux du Layon, botrytis is less common and there is greater reliance on ripeness. Sweet wines may be moelleux (soft), doux (sweet), or liquoreux (syrupy). Dry wines may be sec (dry), sec-tendre (gently dry), or demi-sec (off-dry). Vouvray is high in acidity, even though the acidity may be masked by sugar. Youthful Vouvray can be steely and unforgiving in its youth. With increasing age, aromas of green apple, quince, and acacia blossom surrender to complex tertiary aromas such as honeysuckle, fig, and lanolin. Vouvray, especially the sweeter examples, can have tremendous ageing potential, and on older vintages I have experienced notes such as bitter orange, truffle oil, and peat whisky. Montlouis AOP, on the opposite bank of the river, used to be part of Vouvray until it became a separate (and much smaller) appellation in 1938. Montlouis is similar to Vouvray in range and style, but tends to less acidity and concentration. A lot of Vouvray is rather unimpressive. Top producers include Domaine Huet, Domaine François Pinon, Domaine du Clos Naudin, Domaine de la Fontainerie, Domaine des Aubuisières, Le Clos de Meslerie, and Champalou.

Chinon is extolled in some (untranslatable) verses by François Rabelais (1494-1553), its most famous son: Chinon, trois fois Chinon: Petite ville, grand renom, Assise sur pierre ancienne, Au haut le bois, au pied la Vienne. Chinon is about the same size as Bourgueil and Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil taken together. Although Chinon is better recognized, the three appellations are very similar in style and more or less indistinguishable even to the seasoned blind taster. Chinon has forever been associated with red wine, but also produces a little rosé and a dash of white wine. The reds and rosés are Cabernet Franc with up to 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The soils are diverse and complex. In essence, gravelly, alluvial soils on the river flats yield a lighter and more fruit-driven style, while higher areas rich in limestone and tuffeau jaune yield a richer and more structured style. Chinon offers a nose of raspberries and pencil shavings. With age, it develops earthy, spicy, and animally notes. Unripe examples may be marred by a bitter greenness or herbaceousness. On the palate, it is light or medium in body with high acidity, medium alcohol, and fine and powdery tannins. The use of new oak is uncommon. Top producers include Olga Raffault, Charles Joguet, Bernard Baudry, Château de Coulaine, Philippe Alliet, Domaine de Noiré, and Wilfrid Rousse, and many of their wines can age for a decade or more.

Bourgueil AOP and the smaller appellation of Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil AOP lie across the river from Chinon. The slopes are south-facing and sheltered from cold, northerly winds by forests. Like Chinon, this is mostly red wine territory although some rosé is also made. Bourgueil is Cabernet Franc topped with up to 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. As in Chinon, gravelly, alluvial soils on the river flats yield a lighter and more fruit-driven style, while higher areas rich in limestone and tuffeau jaune yield a richer and more structured style. Compared to Bourgueil, Saint-­Nicolas-de-Bourgueil has developed a lighter, more delicate and fruit-driven signature. Top producers in these appellations include Yannick Amirault, Max Cognard, and Delauney Druet.

Centre: Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé

The principal grape variety in the Centre is Sauvignon Blanc, with smaller plantings of Pinot Noir and Chasselas. The most notable appellations are Sancerre AOP and Pouilly-Fumé AOP, which almost face each other across the Loire. Sancerre used to be famed for light-bodied red wines, but, since the mid-20th century, has built such a reputation for Sauvignon Blanc as to have become its spiritual home. Today, most Sancerre is Sauvignon Blanc, although red and rosé Pinot Noir can also be found. Pouilly-Fumé, in contrast, is invariably Sauvignon Blanc. The soils of Pouilly-Fumé are richer in silex, translating into a smoky, gunflint aroma (pierre-à-fusil). Moreover, the calcium-rich limestone imparts a certain chalky quality. Both silex and limestone reflect sunlight and retain heat, helping the grapes to ripen. Sancerre is pale lemon in colour, possibly with a green tinge. Notes of gooseberry and grapefruit are accompanied by hints of blackcurrant leaf, nettles, cut grass, and smoke. The nose is sometimes shorthanded as ‘cat’s pee on a gooseberry bush’. On the palate, the wine is dry and light-bodied with high acidity, medium alcohol, and a mineral finish. Malolactic conversion and oak ageing are unusual, and most Sancerre is intended for early drinking. In practice, it is very difficult to distinguish Sancerre from Pouilly-Fumé, although the latter does tend to be smokier. A lot of Sancerre is not much different from generic Sauvignon de Touraine AOP from the Middle Loire. At the other end of the quality spectrum, the villages of Bué, Chavignol, and Ménétréol-sous-Sancerre have achieved quasi cru status. Top producers include Didier Dagueneau, Henri Bourgeois, François Cotat, Lucien Crochet, Alphonse Mellot, Vincent Pinard, Gérard Boulay, and Vacheron. Wines labelled with just ‘Pouilly’ or ‘Pouilly-sur-Loire’ can be quite elegant, but are usually made from Chasselas rather than Sauvignon Blanc. Sancerre Rouge, which occasionally crops up in blind tastings, is a very pale, light, and delicate Pinot Noir with herbal notes and a just-ripe raspberry fruit profile.

Owing to the Loire’s geographical expanse and diversity of grape varieties and styles, it is very hard to generalize about vintages. However, stronger overall years include 1989, 1990, 1996, 2005, 2009, 2014, and 2015.