Chapter 15

Italy: North-East

Italy: North-East

The history of winemaking in Italy stretches back to the Etruscans and early Greek settlers. The country, which ranks first in terms of wine production (Appendix C), boasts a range of favourable climates and terrains, over two thousand indigenous grape varieties, and countless wines. Of its twenty wine regions, three are in the north-east (Veneto, Trentino-Alto Adige, Friuli-Venezia Giulia), five are in the north-west (Piedmont, Lombardy, Emilia Romagna, Liguria, Valle d’Aosta), six are in the centre (Tuscany, Umbria, Lazio, Marche, Abruzzo, Molise), four are in the south (Campania, Basilicata, Puglia, Calabria), and the remaining two are the islands of Sicily and Sardinia. The most important regions by volume are Sicily, Puglia, and Veneto; and by quality Piedmont, Tuscany, and Veneto. This chapter and the next three cover 14 of the most notable Italian wine regions.

Classification

Since its inception in 1963, the Italian wine classification has undergone a number of modifications and additions. Wines with a geographical indication can be classified as either DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protteta) or the broader and less restrictive IGP (Indicazione Geografica Protteta). There are a total of 407 DOPs, of which 333 DOCs (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) and 74 DOCGs (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita). Italy’s DOCGs are mostly concentrated in just three regions: Piedmont, Veneto, and Tuscany. DOCGs are subjected to the strictest regulations and to quality analysis and tasting prior to bottling; and the bottles carry numbered seals across the neck to improve traceability and deter fraudsters. Introduced in 1992, the IGP classification caters for those wines that sit outside a DOP or do not conform to DOP regulations relating to grape varieties or styles. There are 118 IGPs. While most IGP wines (labelled with the trigram IGP or IGT, Indicazione Geografica Tipica) are humble, some, most notably the premium ‘Super Tuscans’, can be of the highest quality, with prices to match. To be promoted to DOC, a wine must have been an IGP for at least five years; to be promoted to DOCG, it must have been a DOC for at least ten years.

In 2006, a dozen flagship producers launched the unofficial Comitato Grandi Cru d’Italia, and they have since been joined by scores of other top producers.

Terms that commonly feature on an Italian wine label include ‘Classico’, ‘Superiore’, and ‘Riserva’. Broadly speaking, ‘Classico’ denotes a wine produced in the historical or original part of an appellation; ‘Superiore’ denotes a higher alcohol and more restricted yield; and ‘Riserva’ denotes a longer period of ageing. In the case of Chianti, ‘Classico’ is simply part of the name of the appellation, ‘Chianto Classico DOCG’.

Veneto

The three north-east regions of Veneto, Trentino-Alto Adige, and Friuli-Venezia Giulia are collectively referred to as the Venezie, after the old Venetian Republic and, before that, the Roman region of Venetia et Histria. Veneto is the most important of the three regions and the most important DOP producer in Italy, with over 20% of production qualifying for DOC or DOCG status. Its natural boundaries are the Alps to the north, the Adriatic to the east, and Lake Garda to the west. Aside from Venice, important centres include Padua, Verona, and Vicenza. The most notable appellations are Soave and Prosecco (Chapter 11) for whites, and Valpolicella and Bardolino for reds. Overall, the region puts out slightly more whites than reds.

Soave

Just east of Verona is the Soave delimited area, part of which is DOC and another part, Soave Superiore, DOCG. The delimitations and their associated regulations are controversial, with some top producers choosing to declassify their wines to IGT Veneto to free their hand and break from Soave’s unhelpful reputation. The soils in the hilly Classico district are much less fertile than those in the alluvial plains of the Adige, which are responsible for the undistinguished bulk of production. Within the Classico district, the soils to the west near the commune of Soave are richer in limestone, which retains heat and promotes a riper, fuller style. Soave DOCG from the hillsides outside the Classico district is labelled as Soave Colli Scaligeri Superiore DOCG. To meet DOCG rules, Garganega must contribute at least 70% to the blend, with any remainder made up by Verdicchio (Trebbiano di Soave) and Chardonnay. Garganega is a late-ripener with a thick skin that protects it against autumn mists rising from the Po valley. The bulk of Soave production is dry and still, but there is also a spumante and a recioto (a kind of straw wine, or passito). Quality Soave is typically straw in colour, with notes of citrus fruits and almonds and hints of flowers and spice, a body ranging from light to fairly full, crisp acidity, medium alcohol, no or little residual sugar, and a mineral or creamy finish with a slightly bitter edge. The best examples can be quite long and complex. Oak is usually absent. Soave is often confused with Pinot Grigio, but is higher in acidity. Top producers of Soave include Anselmi, Ca’ Rugate, Gini, Inama, Pieropan, Pra, Tessari, and the Cantina di Monteforte co-operative. The Cantina di Soave co-operative, with over 2,000 members, is responsible for almost half of Soave DOC production, and is the largest co-operative in Italy.

Valpolicella

The Valpolicella demarcated area lies to the north of Verona, linking Soave to the east with Bardolino to the west. Valpolicella is mostly made from three varieties: Corvina Veronese, Rondinella, and Molinara, with Corvina the most distinguished of the three. Much Valpolicella is light and simple, made in a novello, early-release style similar to Beaujolais Nouveau. Beyond this, Valpolicella Classico is made from grapes from the traditional Classico district in the Monte Lessini foothills. Valpolicella Valpantena is similar, made from grapes from the highly regarded Valpantena district. Valpolicella Superiore is Valpolicella with an alcohol of at least 12% that has spent at least one year in oak. At the top of the pyramid are late-­harvest recioto and amarone, and a ripasso made from Valpolicella re-fermented (‘re-passed’) on the grape skins left over from the fermentation of recioto or amarone. The recioto and amarone come under a separate DOCG, and the ripasso under a separate DOC. In contrast to recioto, amarone is fermented to dryness, with less residual sugar and more alcohol. It is matured for at least two years, usually in large barrels of old Slovenian or French oak. Grapes for recioto and amarone often come from the best vineyards.

Valpolicella normale is a simple, fruity, and refreshing wine that is sometimes served chilled. It is light in colour and body with vibrant cherry or berry fruits, high acidity, and low tannins. Valpolicella Classico is fuller in body and much more structured and complex, with more tannins and discernible (sometimes new) oak influence. Ripasso is a further step up, darker, richer, more complex, and more tannic, with soft, rounded tannins and a sweet finish. At the top of the pyramid, Amarone is rich, full-bodied, and concentrated with high alcohol, crisp acidity, velvety tannins, and a long and bitter finish. Its complex flavour profile is often compared to that of port, with notes of stewed cherries, raisins, dark chocolate, and liquorice. A more modern, or international, style of Amarone is also made, which is softer and purer in fruit, with perceptible new oak influence. Amarone can improve over a decade or more. Top producers include Allegrini, Corte Sant’Alda, Giuseppe Quintarelli, and Novaia. Co-operatives are important, accounting for about half of Valpolicella production.

Bardolino

Like Valpolicella, Bardolino DOC is mostly made from a blend of Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara. However, Bardolino generally contains less Corvina and more Rondinella, making it lighter in colour and body. Other varieties are also permitted in small proportions. Cool air from the Alpine foothills to the north and reflected sunlight from Lake Garda help to account for Bardolino’s fresh and fruity signature. Almost half of production comes from the Bardolino Classico delimited area, although differences in terroir are not so marked as in Valpolicella or Soave. Other styles include a Superiore with DOCG status, a chiaretto (rosé), a frizzante, and a novello similar to Beaujolais Nouveau. Bardolino ought to be drunk young and served slightly chilled.

Pinot grigio

The DNA profiles of Pinot Gris and Pinor Noir are almost identical, and the vines are so similar as to be distinguishable only by the colour of their fruit. Pinot Grigio is the Italian clone of Pinot Gris. In its Burgundian homeland, Pinot Gris (Fromenteau) used to be planted en foule alongside Pinot Noir, and served to soften the must. However, poor yields and unreliable crops led to its gradual decline and quasi disappearance. This fall from grace has been offset by the success of its Italian clone. From 1990 to 2010 (the year of the last census), plantings of Pinot Grigio in Italy rose from 3,500ha to 12,000ha. Most of the plantings are in the north-east, especially in Veneto. Pinot Grigio is dry and unoaked, with faint notes of apple, pear, lemon, white peach, white flowers, and bitter almonds, and, often, a clean and mineral finish. Compared to Pinot Grigio from Friuli or Alto Adige, Pinot Grigio from Veneto can be rather neutral owing to high yields and, in some cases, blending with cheaper varieties such as Trebbiano. Alsatian Pinot Gris is altogether a different animal, darker in colour with riper fruit, a fuller body, and lower acidity. The appeal of Pinot Grigio lies in its simplicity. Compared to Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc, which are high in acidity and aroma, and Chardonnay, which can be dense and alcoholic, Pinot Grigio is versatile and uncomplicated: fresh, light, and easy to drink and pair with food.

Trentino-Alto Adige

Trentino-Alto Adige is in the far north of Italy, in the foothills of the Dolomites. The region is bisected by the valley of the Adige and consists of two provinces, Trentino in the south and Alto Adige (Südtirol) in the north. Alto Adige belonged to Austria-Hungary until 1919 and still feels Germanic, with a high proportion of bilingual residents. The province is so mountainous that only the valleys of the Adige and its tributaries can be cultivated, with vines perched on terraces above the valley floor. Despite Trentino-Alto Adige’s northerly latitude and high altitude, the wines are often ripe and rich owing to mild alpine air currents and a dry and sunny climate. High diurnal temperature variation makes the region particularly suited to white wine production, even if red wine production has the upper hand overall. Trentino and Alto Adige each contains one large catchall DOC and manifold smaller ones. A large number of grape varieties are cultivated to suit the range of aspects and altitudes. The principal black varieties are the indigenous Lagrein, Schiava, Teroldego, and Marzemino, as well as Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. Schiava is light and fruity with notes of raspberry and cranberry, and is often blended with Lagrein, which is much higher in colour and extract, with notes of plum and spice. The principal white varieties are Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer (the village of Tramin/Termeno is actually in Alto Adige, not Alsace), Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Muscat, Müller-Thurgau, Sylvaner, Grüner Veltliner, and Kerner. Trentino-Alto Adige is dominated by co-operatives, many of which are excellent. Production is relatively small, but most of it is at DOC level and much of it is exported, with many Austrians retaining a fondness for the region’s Schiava and Lagrein. Some of my favourite producers in Alto Adige are Tiefenbrunner, Elena Walch, Alois Lageder, and Kuenhof, which all produce solar and yet focused and mineral wines.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia

Friuli-Venezia Giulia, or Friuli, is especially reputed for unoaked white wines that emphasize varietal character, freshness, and fruitiness. Nestled in the far north-east corner of Italy, the region comes under Italian, Germanic, and Slavic influences, whence the large number of varieties and styles. Much of the production is DOC, and, of this, more than half is Friuli Grave DOC. Other notable DOCs are Collio DOC and Colli Orientali DOC, each of which encompasses a large number of varietal wines. All in all, there are ten DOCs and four DOCGs (although Lison DOCG, made from Friulano, is largely in Veneto). Most of the region’s vineyards are in the south, sheltered from cold northerly winds by the Julian Alps to the north. The climate is influenced by the Adriatic Sea and cool Alpine air, with warm days and cool nights. In the hills of Collio and Colli Orientali near the Slovenian border, the soils consist of calcareous marl with alternating layers of sandstone (called ‘ponka’, ‘flysch’, or ‘flysch of Cormons’). In contrast, the undulating plain of Friuli Grave sits, as the name suggests, on gravelly soils. Friuli wines are relatively expensive because arable land is scarce, and because the region is dominated by quality-conscious, technologically advanced small-scale producers.

The region’s most reputed wines come from Collio and Colli Orientali, which are both predominantly white wine areas. In general, the wines of Collio have more delicacy and bouquet than those of Colli Orientali, which for their part have greater body and depth. The most important varieties in Collio are Friulano (Sauvignon Vert, Sauvignonasse), Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla, and Malvasia. Friulano is crisp and floral, developing notes of nuts and fennel with age. Collio Rosso is usually a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Compared to Collio, Colli Orientali produces more red and sweet wine. White varieties include Sauvignon Blanc, Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Verduzzo, and Picolit. Black varieties include Refosco, Pignolo, and Merlot. Rosazzo DOCG is a blend of Friulano and other varieties. Ramandolo DOCG and Colli Orientiali del Friuli Picolit DOCG are sweet wines made in the passito style, the one from Verduzzo and the other from Picolit. Picolit, once behind Italy’s most sought-after wines, is a sensitive variety with diminutive yields, which limits supply. Some favourite producers are Dorigo, Livio Felluga, and Mario Schiopetto.