Chapter 17

Italy: Central

Central Italy

Tuscany

Viticulture in Tuscany can be traced back to the Etruscans in the 8th century bc. Today, the region boasts some of the biggest names in wine, including Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and, of course, Chianti, Italy’s most recognized red wine.

Tuscany enjoys a diversity of mesoclimates, with the Tyrrhenian Sea and inland hills exercising moderating effects. Most vineyards are planted on hilly or undulating terrain at altitudes of 150-500m. On these elevated slopes, the grapes benefit from greater direct sunlight, cooler summer temperatures, and a higher diurnal temperature range.

Red wine accounts for over 80% of Tuscany’s production, and the dominant variety is Sangiovese (Lat. Sanguis Jovis, ‘Blood of Jove’). Other names for Sangiovese include Brunello, Montepulciano, Morellino, Pignolo, Sangioveto, and Prugnolo Gentile. With the rise of the Super Tuscans (see later), international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot have become more important. Other commonly worked black varieties include Canaiolo, Colorino, Malvasia Nera, and Mammolo.

The principal white varieties are Trebbiano, Malvasia Bianca, Vermentino, and Vernaccia, which underlies the region’s finest white wine, Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG.

Vin Santo (‘Holy Wine’) is a type of passito that is made in several regions but is particularly associated with Tuscany. The most prominent style of Vin Santo is the blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia produced in the Chianti Classico area, but there are many other styles including Sangiovese-based reds and rosés.

Chianti

The first delimitation of the Chianti area took place in 1716 under Cosimo III de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany. The modern incarnation of Chianti as a Sangiovese-dominated blend dates back to the mid-19th century and the Baron Bettino Ricasoli (later Prime Minister of the Kingdom of Italy). In 1932, the Chianti area was expanded and seven sub-areas were created: Classico, which encompasses the original delimited area, Colli Aretini, Colli Fiorentini, Colline Pisane, Colli Senesi, Montalbano, and Rufina. In 1996, an eighth sub-area, Montespertoli, was carved out from Colli Fiorentini. At ~7,000ha, Chianti Classico is larger than all the other sub-areas combined. Of these, Colli Senesi (at ~3,500ha) is the largest and Rufina the most reputed. Wine from outside the sub-areas, or made from a blend from more than one sub-area, is labelled simply ‘Chianti DOCG’—although, technically, the Chianti DOCG overlaps with the DOCG areas of Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Carmignano, and Vernaccia di San Gimignano. As it stands, the Chianti DOCG touches upon six of Tuscany’s ten provinces. Chianti Classico accounts for about one-quarter of total Chianti production. It enjoys a separate DOCG, and members of the Chianti Classico Consortium can display a black rooster seal (gallo nero) on their bottlenecks. Chianti Classico Riserva must be aged for at least 27 months prior to release, although, unlike with Brunello, there is no minimum stipulation for cask ageing. Outside the Classico sub-area, Chianti that meets a more stringent set of criteria can be sold as Chianti Superiore.

The topography and soils of Chianti Classico are quite varied. Vineyards are planted at altitudes of 250 to 610m, typically on soils of weathered sandstone (albarese) or bluish-grey chalky marlstone (galestro). Albarese is more prevalent in the south of the area and galestro in the north. The traditional varieties for Chianti are Sangiovese, Cannaiolo Nero, Malvasia Bianca, and Trebbiano. In recent years, it has become possible to make Chianti from 100% Sangiovese and the use of white varieties in Chianti Classico has been prohibited. Today, Chianti Classico consists of 80-100% Sangiovese and 0-20% other black varieties including Cannaiolo, Colorino, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. The wine is far more likely to be sold in a Bordeaux bottle than in the traditional fiasco, a squat bottle partially covered with a close-fitting basket of sala, a sun-dried swamp weed blanched with sulphur. Historically, glassblowers had an easier time making rounded bottles, and the sala baskets provided these bottles with a flat base.

Chianti is typically medium ruby in colour with notes of cherry, strawberry, raspberry, plum, clove, and herbs—and, with increasing age, tealeaves, tobacco, and leather. Top examples may display additional notes derived from maturation in new French oak. On the palate, body is medium, acidity high, alcohol medium to high, and tannins firm. The finish is agreeably dry with a note of bitter almonds. Compared to Chianti Classico, Chianti Rufina is typically fuller in body and higher in acidity. In blind tastings, Chianti is often confused with Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but has higher acidity and higher and firmer tannins. Top producers of Chianti include Badia a Coltibuono, Barone Ricasoli, Bibbiano, Castello di Ama, Castello di Volpaia, Le Cinciole, Fontodi, Felsina, Isole e Olena, Marchesi Mazzei, Molino di Grace, Nittardi, Querciabella, Rocca della Macie, Rocca di Montegrossi, Ruffino, San Fabiano Calcinaia, and Villa Cerna. Stronger vintages for Chianti and Tuscany more generally include 1990, 1994, 1997, 1999, 2004, 2006, 2007, 2010, and 2013.

Brunello di Montalcino

The first records of a red wine from Montalcino go back to the early 14th century. In 1831, the marchese Cosimo Ridolfi, a future prime minister of Tuscany, praised the wines of Montalcino above all others in the region. In the mid-19th century, Clemente Santi, a local farmer, isolated a Sangiovese clone that yielded a wine that could be extensively aged. In 1888, his grandson Ferrucio Biondi-Santi made the first modern Brunello, which, at the time of release, had spent more than ten years in barrel. Over the next six decades, the Biondi-Santi firm declared only four vintages of its Brunello (1888, 1891, 1925, and 1945) and the rich elixir acquired a reputation for almost mythical rarity. In 1980, the Italian authorities conferred the first ever DOCG to Brunello di Montalcino; and, in 1999, a panel of experts selected a 1955 Biondi Santi Brunello as ‘best of the century’, the only Italian wine to make the cut.

The consistently high quality of Brunello owes to several factors, most notably: the unique Sangiovese clone that is perfectly adapted to the terroir, the terroir itself, the process of vinification and maturation, and the possibility of declassifying substandard produce to Rosso di Montalcino DOC. The vineyards are planted on slopes with diverse aspects, altitudes, and soils, including limestone, clay, schist, marl, and volcanic soil—features which contribute significantly to quality and complexity. The climate is warmer and drier than in Chianti, enabling Sangiovese to ripen more fully and consistently. At the same time, a maritime breeze promotes air circulation and cooler nights, helping to preserve acidity.

Vinification involves extended maceration and oak ageing. DOCG regulations stipulate that Brunello must be released at least four years after harvest (five for Riserva), including at least two in barrel. Created in 1984, Rosso di Montalcino DOC is co-extensive with Brunello DOCG and enables producers to declassify substandard produce and/or release their wine earlier. In 2008, the Italian authorities impounded the 2003 vintage of four Brunello producers on charges of bulking up their wine with varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Laboratory tests demonstrated that the wines had not been blended or adulterated, except for a small proportion that tested inconclusively. Today, ‘Brunellogate’ has mostly been forgotten. Producers have reaffirmed their commitment to the strict production code, with only 4% voting to change it. Compared to Chianti, Brunello is darker and richer, more full-bodied, tannic, and alcoholic, and also more complex. Top producers of Brunello include Biondi-Santi, Gianni Brunelli, Canalicchio di Sopra, Castello Banfi, Col d’Orcia, Conti Costanti, Fattoria dei Barbi, Il Poggione, Lisini, Mastrojanni, Silvio Nardi, Pian dell’Orino, Poggio Antico, Poggio di Sotto, and Uccelliera.

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano

The prefix ‘Vino Nobile’ dates back to the 1930s and Adamo Fanetti, although the wine itself has a much longer history. It is mentioned in Voltaire’s Candide (1759): ‘Thereupon he accosted them, and with great politeness invited them to his inn to eat some macaroni, with Lombard partridges and caviar, and to drink a bottle of Montepulciano.’ In contrast to Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, which is made from the Montepulciano grape, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is at least 70% Sangiovese, with any balance made up by Canaiolo Nero and/or other varieties such as Colorino and Mammolo. The climate is warmer than in Chianti Classico and the vineyards face east to south-east on slopes that range in altitude from 250 to 600m. The soils are sandier than in either Chianti Classico or Montalcino and contain less limestone. DOCG regulations stipulate ageing for at least two years (three for the Riserva) prior to release, including at least 12 months in cask, typically large Italian botti. Other wines from Montepulciano include Rosso di Montepulciano DOC, which is earlier to mature, and Vin Santo di Montepulciano. Compared to Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano is weightier and more alcoholic, with firm tannins and high acidity and a drying ‘tealeaf’ finish. In a sense, it sits between Chianti and Brunello in body and style.

Carmignano

In 1716, Cosimo III de’ Medici legislated to protect the fine wine of Carmignano. In the 18th century, Carmignano winemakers developed a tradition of blending Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon, a practice that became commoner in the 20th century and that has been enshrined in the appellation rules. The appellation comprises a mere 100ha around the village of Carmignano on the eastern slopes of Monte Albano, ~10 miles north-west of Florence. The vineyards are planted on lime-rich, free-draining soils, and their relatively low altitude of 50 to 200m enables Sangiovese to ripen fully. Carmignano used to be sold as Chianti Montalbano until it acquired a separate DOC (1975), subsequently elevated to DOCG (1990). Current regulations call for at least 50% Sangiovese with 10-20% Cabernet Sauvignon or Cabernet Franc, 0-20% Cannaiolo, 0-10% other black varieties, and 0-10% Trebbiano and other white varieties. Riserva status calls for three years ageing including 12 months in cask. Substandard produce can be declassified to Barco Reale DOC, which is made in a fresher, more modern style. Vin Santo is also made, including a rosé Vin Santo, Occhio de Pernice (‘eye of the partridge’). Carmignano is rather soft and elegant, with lower acidity and more pronounced tannins than Chianti Classico. It tends to benefit from blending with Bordeaux varieties. Despite early recognition and protection, it can be thought of as the original Super Tuscan. The most recognized producer is Capezzana, which accounts for almost half of DOCG production.

Vernaccia di San Gimignano

Vernaccia di San Gimignano has long been looked upon as one of Italy’s finest white wines, and is even named-checked in Dante’s Divine Comedy: ‘[Pope Martin IV] Has held the holy Church within his arms… and purges by his fasting Bolsena’s eels and the Vernaccia wine.’ In 1966, it was the first Italian wine to be granted DOC status, subsequently elevated to DOCG. Vernaccia di San Gimignano is made from Vernaccia di San Gimignano (distinct from other Vernaccias) in and around San Gimignano, which looks more like a film set than a hilltown. The DOCG regulations stipulate that the wine must consist of at least 90% Vernaccia, with any balance made up by a number of approved white varieties. Riserva status requires ageing for at least twelve months in steel or oak, followed by a further four months in bottle. Vernaccia di San Gimignano is gold in colour, with notes of lime, camomile tea, and flowers. On the palate, it is rich and full-bodied but also dry, with crisp acidity and a mineral and slightly bitter finish.

Super Tuscans

The first true Super Tuscan is Tenuta San Guido’s Sassicaia, first released in 1971. In the 1960s and 1970s, many producers in Chianti regarded the DOC regulations as too restrictive. In particular, the regulations insisted upon blending white varieties into red wines, while leaving no place for Bordeaux varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. A number of producers set out to make wines outside the DOC regulations (and, in many cases, outside the DOC delimited area), leaving them with no option but to label their wines as humble vino da tavola. The movement soon attracted international attention and some of the new style wines achieved iconic status.

Today, Super Tuscans can be varietal wines based on Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot; Bordeaux-style blends; non-traditional blends such as Cabernet Sauvigon and Syrah; blends of Sangiovese and Bordeaux varieties; or varietal wines based on Sangiovese. Sassicaia is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc; and Tignanello, another prototype Super Tuscan, 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Since the 1960s and 70s, the legal landscape has changed considerably: the DOC regulations have become more flexible, and the legal entities of IGT Toscana and DOC Bolgheri have been created. Some Super Tuscans have re-entered the fold of Chianti DOCG. Others are labelled as IGT, which, while not DOC, still represents a big step up from vino da tavola. And yet others have fallen into the Bolgheri DOC delimited area in Alta Maremma, along the Tyrrhenian coast. This is the case of Sassicaia, which, uniquely, enjoys a separate DOC within Bolgheri: DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia.

Umbria

The climate of hilly, landlocked Umbria is similar to that of Tuscany, but without the moderating Mediterranean influence. Though relatively small in terms of overall production, the region is particularly noted for Orvieto Classico DOC and Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG.

Orvieto

The Orvieto delimited area, which accounts for the bulk of Umbrian quality wine production, is centred on the eponymous commune and extends south into the neigbouring region of Lazio. The soils in the Classico zone consist of tufo, similar to the tuffeau in parts of the Loire. Orvieto consists in a blend of Grechetto, Trebbiano Toscano (Procanico), and other white varieties. Historically, it was often made from grapes affected by noble rot (muffa nobile), and sweet and semi-sweet styles are still to be found. At its best, Orvieto is fresh and clean, with notes of apples, pears, flowers, and peaches, and an aftertaste of citrus fruits or bitter almonds. Body, acidity, and alcohol are all medium. Caveat emptor: Orvieto with a high proportion of Trebbiano tends to blandness.

Sagrantino di Montefalco

In recent years, Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG has pipped the Sangiovese-dominated Torgiano Rosso Riserva DOCG to the post of Umbria’s premier red wine. It is made from Sagrantino from a delimited area in the province of Perugia. The dominant dry style is aged for 30 months of which at least 12 in cask. A historical passito style is also made, but in much smaller volumes. Everything about Sagrantino di Montefalco is superlative. On approach, it is inky purple in colour, with an intense and complex bouquet of red and black fruits, ripe plum, soft spice, and earth. In the mouth, it is full-bodied, with high acidity, alcohol, extract, and tannins, and a long, sweet-seeming finish.

Lazio (Latium)

Production in Latium is dominated by white wines, first among them Frascati Superiore DOCG. The principal viticultural area is Castelli Romani in the Alban Hills, to the south-east of Rome. Castelli Romani, so-called because Roman aristocrats used to summer there, is a collection of 14 communes including Frascati and Castel Gandolfo. Castel Gandolfo, which houses the pope’s summer palace, is said to occupy the site of Alba Longa, which, in myth, was founded by Ascanius son of Aeneas and forefather of Romulus and Remus. The area’s volcanic soils are rich and fertile, promoting high yields and a tendency, with Rome on the doorstep, to favour quantity over quality. Frascati is typically a blend, or primarly a blend, of Malvasia (Malvasia di Candia and Malvasia del Lazio) and Trebbiano (Trebbiano Toscano and Trebbiano Giallo). It is light, dry, crisp, and rather neutral, and perfectly suited to the region’s climate and cuisine.

Marche

The principal varieties in Marche are Verdicchio, Sangiovese, Montepulciano, and Trebbiano. Verdicchio goes into making still, sparkling, and straw wines, and finds its finest expressions in Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva DOCG from the province of Macerata and Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Riserva DOCG from the nearby province of Ancona. The latter appellation is considerably smaller, with more restricted yields and a fuller, more concentrated, and more consistent character. In the glass, Verdicchio is pale in colour with hints of green (whence ‘Verdicchio’), with crisp, citrusy acidity, subtle herbaceous undertones, and a bitter almond finish. The most distinguished red wine from Marche is Rosso Conero Riserva DOCG from Monte Conero just south of Ancona. Rosso Conero Riserva is typically 100% Montepulciano, and darker, weightier, and more intense than Rosso Conero DOC and nearby Rosso Piceno DOC, which are blends of Montepulciano and Sangiovese.

Abruzzo

Abruzzo is a rugged, mountainous region harbouring a diversity of mesoclimates. Fertile soils and the tendone training system contribute to some very high yields. Production is concentrated in the Chieti province, but some of the finer wines are crafted in the northern Teramo and Pescara provinces. Quality wine production is dominated by the vast Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC and the co-extensive Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC. The finest expression of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (which is not at all related to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano) is Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane DOCG in the north of the region. This inky-black wine is rich and powerful yet subtle and complex, with notes of black cherries and plums, earth, spice, and smoke, soft tannins, and medium or low acidity. In the middle of the 20th century, Emidio Pepe and Edoardo Valentini (the ‘Lord of the Vines’) introduced modern and innovative methods of winemaking to the region, and Valentini’s Trebbiano d’Abruzzo is one of Italy’s most distinctive and distinguished dry white wines.