Chapter 22
New Zealand
North Island
South Island
The vine arrived in New Zealand in the early 19th century, borne across the seas by English missionaries. Since then, the story of New Zealand wine has been one of chronic stagnation capped by a sudden and spectacular ascent.
In the wake of phylloxera, growers neglected to graft their European vines onto American rootstocks, preferring instead to plant inferior American vines. A drop in quality combined with a number of cultural, economic, and legislative obstacles impeded the growth of the wine industry, and, for a long time, most of the wine produced was being either fortified or distilled.
Following the UK’s entry into the EEC in 1973, New Zealand could no longer rely on exports of lamb, beef, and dairy to the former colonial power. As the economy diversified, viticulture grew in importance. At about the same time, some deregulation of pubs and restaurants and a surge in international travel led to a transformation in domestic attitudes to wine. In 1973, on advice from UC Davis, Montana planted Sauvignon Blanc in Marlborough. Dr Richard Smart, the government viticulturalist in the 1980s, inaugurated a more scientific approach to viticulture with effective canopy management becoming standard practice. Technological expertise honed in the dairy industry led to improvements in winemaking, in particular, cool fermentation in stainless steel tanks. These changes led to the clean, fresh, and punchy style of Sauvignon Blanc for which New Zealand has become famous. By the mid-1990s, both Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay had overtaken the unexciting Müller-Thurgau, which had been disseminated under the misguided notion that growing conditions in New Zealand resembled those in Germany.
Today, Sauvignon Blanc accounts for over half the country’s ~36,000ha under vine, an area that is still growing. Other varieties, notably Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and, more recently, Riesling and Pinot Gris, have also been established. In 2015, the country produced 2,350,000 hectolitres of wine, most of which was destined for export. Exports hit a record of NZ$1.42 billion, with Sauvignon Blanc accounting for over 85% of shipments. The three largest foreign markets, the USA, Australia, and the UK, each accounted for about a quarter of total exports. Consolidation of existing wine regions and development of new ones is still ongoing with winemakers busy matching varieties, clones, and rootstocks to the country’s diverse soils and climates. The journey so far has been nothing short of astonishing.
The lie of the land
Although only half the area of France, New Zealand spans 12 degrees of latitude from 34° to 46°S. The vine is planted along most of the length of the country, a distance more or less equivalent to that separating Lugano from south of Tunis. The climate is considerably cooler than the latitude range might suggest owing to the moderating influence of the Pacific and chilly southerlies that travel unimpeded from Antarctica. Central Otago, nestled in the Southern Alps and blocked off from the prevailing winds, is the country’s only truly continental viticultural region.
Climate
Overall, the South Island is considerably cooler and more temperate than the North Island, the northern part of which is subtropical. The prevailing winds are westerly such that the east coast is drier than the west. Marlborough, which lies in a rain shadow, is the country’s sunniest wine region and can be affected by drought. Irrigation is unregulated, but ambitious producers use it only sparingly. Owing to the hole in the ozone layer, sunlight can be harsh, and canopy management aims in part at reducing UV burning of the fruit. Frosts too have become a problem over the last decade, with cold spells exacerbated by deforestation in areas such as Marlborough that have undergone a dramatic expansion in vineyard area.
Soils
In stark contrast to Australia, which lies over 1,400km across the Tasman Sea, New Zealand is one of Earth’s youngest landmasses. Its position on a tectonic boundary is responsible for its mountainous spine, as well as frequent seismic and volcanic activity. Vineyard soils predominantly consist of free-draining deposits of greywacke gravel brought down from the mountains by braided rivers. The country’s most renowned gravel vineyards include Gimblett Gravels in Hawke’s Bay and the Wairau and Awatere Valleys in Marlborough. The Waitaki Valley in north-east Otago and Waipara in North Canterbury are the only wine regions with significant limestone deposits. In many areas, the combination of fertile soils and humid conditions promotes the growth of foliage, with the principal function of canopy management being to ensure that sunlight can percolate to the fruit.
Regions
South Island: Marlborough
First planted in 1973, Marlborough has come to account for over three-fifths (23,200ha) of the country’s vineyard area and some three-quarters of its wine production. The region lies in a rain shadow near the northern extremity of South Island. The regional centre is Blenheim, and the main areas are the Wairau and Awatere river valleys. Long and sunny days, cool nights, and (often) dry autumns combine with alluvial topsoils and gravelly subsoils to provide next to ideal growing conditions. Spring frosts and summer droughts can present problems, and the use of drip irrigation is common. Compared to that in Wairau, the climate in Awatere is drier and cooler with a greater diurnal temperature range.
Marlborough is, of course, especially reputed for its Sauvignon Blanc, which accounts for three-quarters of the region’s vineyard area. Much of the output is rather generic, but quality producers such as Greywacke, Dog Point, Saint Clair, and Vavasour focus on single vineyard expressions and even produce oaked Bordeaux-style cuvees. Marlborough is also New Zealand’s largest producer of sparkling wine, mostly blends of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (Chapter 11). Montana Lindauer Grandeur, Deutz Marlborough Cuvée, and Cloudy Bay Pelorus are regional benchmarks for traditional method sparkling wine, although some less ambitious producers prefer to use the cheaper tank method. Marlborough Pinot Noir is distinguished for its lightness and freshness, which sets it apart from Martinborough or Central Otago Pinot Noir. Aromatic varieties are also planted: especially noteworthy are sweet botrytized Riesling, and dry, lean Pinot Gris.
South Island: Central Otago
Enclosed by the Southern Alps, Central Otago is the only truly continental climate region in New Zealand, with extreme seasonal and diurnal temperature variations. Although summers are short, they are hot and sunny and cede to a dry autumn. The best sites are on north-facing slopes with maximal sun exposure, and many vineyards are planted near the banks of the region’s several lakes and rivers. The soils are mostly light loess, and, owing to steep slopes and poor water retention, often require irrigation. There are also some gravel deposits over schist. The region is most reputed for its Pinot Noir, and the variety accounts for the greater part of plantings. Felton Road, Mount Difficulty, and Rippon perhaps best exemplify the signature rich and velvety style. Harvests take place in mid-to-late April compared to late February or early March in the country’s more northerly regions. To the north-east of Central Otago, near Oamaru on the Pacific coast, is the cool and limestone-rich Waitaki Valley, which is attracting prospective interest.
South Island: Canterbury and Waipara
Vineyards are planted on the vast Canterbury Plains around Christchurch and in the volcanic hills of Banks Peninsula, but the region’s most exciting wine area is the Waipara Valley, 70km north of Christchurch. Waipara sits on a rare outcrop of limestone and is sometimes thought of as the Burgundy of the southern hemisphere. The Teviotdale Hills shelter Waipara from the cool easterly winds, but without obstructing the warm and dry Nor’wester. The climate is milder than that of Burgundy or Canterbury Plains, with warm summers and very long autumns. Waipara is recognized for its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, and is also making a name for its Riesling, with styles ranging from dry, lean, and mineral to ripe and sweet and low in alcohol (not dissimilar to Mosel Riesling). Pegasus Bay is a highly regarded producer, and relative newcomer Black Estate is developing an impressive focus on terroir. Away from the main valley floor, Bell Hill and Pyramid Valley both make some rather fine Pinot Noir.
South Island: Nelson
To the north-west of Marlborough, Nelson is, at ~1,100ha, roughly the same size as Wairarapa (see below), but has yet to forge a distinct identity for itself. The climate is similar to that of Marlborough, if a touch cooler and wetter, with abundant sunshine in the lee of the Southern Alps and Tasman Mountains. The vineyards are planted on hilly slopes or flatlands on a variety of soils including both clay and alluvial loam. As in Marlborough, Sauvignon Blanc is the most planted variety, although the region also has a fine reputation for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The lingering autumns are ideal for late-harvest sweet wines, which are made from Riesling and other varieties. The small, family-owned Neudorf winery is the region’s star performer.
North Island: Gisborne and Hawke’s Bay
Gisborne occupies the eastern extremity of the North Island, and can boast the world’s most easterly vineyards. With fertile loam soils and plenty of sunshine, yields are high and harvests early. Gisborne is dominated by white wine production, especially Chardonnay, which is made in a distinctive tropical style. The region is also noted for its fragrant Gewurztraminers and Viogniers.
Further south around the twin towns of Napier and Hastings is Hawke’s Bay, which, with almost 5,000ha, is the second most important New Zealand region. Hawke’s Bay is sheltered from the prevailing winds by mountains, and benefits from abundant sunshine and cooling sea breezes. The soils are a complex mosaic ranging from fertile loam to poorer alluvial gravels. The most noted area is Gimblett Gravels, a former riverbed of deep greywacke gravel. The favourable climate and diverse soil types lend themselves to a variety of wine styles, and the region is especially reputed for its Bordeaux-style blends. Although Cabernet Sauvignon is planted on warmer gravel deposits, it does not always fully ripen, and the blends tend to be dominated by Merlot. Syrah is a relative newcomer, with an expression that is distinct from that of its counterparts in Australia and the Rhône. Among the white wines, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc predominate. Pinot Blanc, Cabernet Franc, and other varieties are also cultivated.
North Island: Wairarapa and Martinborough
Wairarapa with its ~1,000ha is tiny compared to Marlborough across the Cook Strait, and dominated by small producers bent on quality. Martinborough, the main town, lends its name to the area that produces the country’s most celebrated Pinot Noirs. The climate is similar to that of Marlborough, if slightly warmer. The Rimutaka Range shelters the region from the wet winds that batter the capital of Wellington, some 65km to the west. Sunny summers with cool nights preserve acidity, while long and dry autumns promote phenolic ripeness. Summer drought can present a challenge, and limited irrigation is common. The soils are varied, with some of the finest vineyards on free-draining gravels overlain by silt loam. The conditions are ideal for Pinot Noir, which has come to account for more than half of plantings. Pioneers such as Ata Rangi, Te Kairanga, Dry River, and Martinborough Vineyard began planting Pinot Noir in the 1980s, and their wines have come to rival those of Burgundy. Although eclipsed by Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc accounts for a large minority of plantings, and Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, and Chardonnay are also to be reckoned with.
North Island: Auckland
Auckland is New Zealand’s largest city, and the wine region can be taken to include the Northland district extending to the northernmost tip of the island. In 2015, Auckland counted 111 wineries on ~400ha, compared to 140 wineries on ~23,200ha in Marlborough. The subtropical climate is associated with disease pressure throughout the year and potential dilution of grape sugars at harvest time. However, ample cloud cover protects the fruit from the scorching sun, and drier sites are well suited to Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, which can struggle to ripen in other parts of the country. Some of the best terroirs are to the west of the city around the town of Kumeu, and on the island of Waiheke. Kumeu is home to descendants of Croatian Dalmatian settlers such as the Brajkovich family of Kumeu River, which is revered for its Chardonnays. Waiheke Island to the east of Auckland is drier than the mainland, enabling the late-ripening Cabernet Sauvignon to thrive. The soils are more clay than gravel, and, accordingly, Merlot is also planted. Waiheke produces perhaps the country’s finest Bordeaux-style blends, and the Stonyridge and Man o’ War wineries are especially reputed. Syrah too is making inroads.
Wine styles
New Zealand’s cool and yet overall sunny climate is hospitable to varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling that are most at home in northern Europe. Varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah have colonized a few warmer regions. In general, the New Zealand style is typified by bright, pure fruit flavours and zingy acidity.
Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has become a benchmark for Sauvignon Blanc. It has a clean, pungent aroma that combines ripe fruit and fresh vegetal notes. A typical tasting note might include gooseberry, passion fruit, asparagus, fresh grass, and blackcurrant leaf. Acidity is high but somewhat disguised by a smooth texture and, often, a touch of residual sugar that contributes roundness rather than sweetness. Body is medium and alcohol medium-to-high. The finest examples can boast a more ‘serious’ austerity, and, as in Bordeaux, may be fermented and matured in oak. Sauvignon Blanc from the North Island is often lighter in style, and driven more by tropical fruit. Compared to Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire, Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is typically riper, higher in alcohol, and less chalky or mineral.
Ripe (although not tropical) fruit and high acidity are the hallmarks of New Zealand Chardonnay. Typical notes include ripe apple and stone fruit, sometimes with a distinct yoghurt note. The finest examples evince Burgundian winemaking techniques, especially oak ageing, with American oak less common than it used to be. Chardonnay from the North Island is often riper, but it is hard to generalize.
When it comes to Riesling, New Zealand looks more to Europe than to Australia, with generally lighter and more delicate styles. The wines are typically crisp and clean with a fresh lime character, as opposed to the pungent lime cordial note of many Australian Rieslings. There are, however, a range of styles, including delicate, Mosel-like styles and late harvest dessert styles. The climate preserves Riesling’s searing acidity. With some age, the best examples develop appealing petrochemical notes.
Pinot Gris is an emerging variety in New Zealand, and, so far, most of it is of a high standard. New Zealand Pinot Gris is much closer to Alsatian Pinot Gris than to Italian Pinot Grigio. It is usually dry or off-dry with notes of apple, pear, honeysuckle, white pepper, and spice. Examples from the North Island in particular may bear the oiliness of an Alsatian Pinot Gris, and there may be suggestions of lees stirring or barrel ageing.
Ultra-clean fruit and high acidity are the hallmarks of New Zealand Pinot Noir. Most of the production is intended for youthful drinking, but more ambitious examples can develop notes of earth and game. Pinot Noir from Central Otago is deep violet in colour with notes of black fruits and cherry, and perhaps a hint of greenness. On the palate, it is full-bodied for Pinot Noir, often with high alcohol and firm, round tannins. Marlborough Pinot Noir is lighter, both in colour and weight, and dominated by red fruits such as cranberry and raspberry, with finely etched, peppery tannins. Martinborough Pinot Noir is often from older vines and most similar to Burgundy. It is weightier than Marlborough and more complete and complex than Central Otago. Notes of cherry and plum mingle with game, spice, and chocolate. The Waipara style is still emerging, but seems to be lighter than Central Otago with notes of red fruits, beetroot, game, and pepper.
A New Zealand style of Syrah (New Zealanders call it ‘Syrah’ rather than ‘Shiraz’) is emerging that is quite distinct to that of Australia or the Rhône. Even in the best sites, the fruit can struggle to ripen, leading to light, earthy wines with just-ripe black fruit flavours, an appealing greenness, and crisp acidity. The pepper notes are unmistakably Syrah, as are the tannins, which are broad but elegant.
Most New Zealand Bordeaux-style blends are Merlot-dominated, with those from Waiheke Island, if you can find them, the likely exception. Varietal Merlot can be in an easy-drinking style, chocolatey with ripe (although not jammy or baked) plum notes. More ambitious wines are likely to include components of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and/or Malbec. Compared to the real McCoy, New Zealand Bordeaux-style blends have more vibrant fruit and a savoury, mineral dimension.