Chapter 26

Argentina
Uruguay
Brazil

Argentina

Vines were first brought to Santiago del Estero, the oldest city in what was to become Argentina, in 1557. As the conquistadors and missionaries pushed south into the Mendoza region, they discovered networks of irrigation canals built by the Huarpe under the guidance of the Inca. These channels served to distribute snowmelt from the Andes, transforming an arid plateau into a land of plenty. Within ten years of the founding of the city of Mendoza in 1561, vineyards had been established in the region. Most wine was made from Mission (Criolla Chica), which, still today, is cultivated for the production of inexpensive table wine. The 1820s witnessed an influx of European migrants into a newly independent Argentina. Most came from Spain and Italy, bringing with them many different grape varieties. French agriculturist Michel Aimé Pouget, who, from 1853, headed Argentina’s first school of agriculture, introduced vine cuttings from France, including Malbec, which, in time, rose to become the country’s signature variety. Prior to the 1990s, almost all the wine produced in Argentina was sold domestically. With the backing of international investors, cooler vineyard sites were sought at (even) higher altitudes and more southerly latitudes, into Patagonia. The economic crisis at the start of the 21st century curbed investment, but not the thirst for quality. Today, Argentina’s international reputation rests on Malbec and Torrontés. The country is busy investing in modern techniques and technologies, and exploiting its extensive repertoire of historic grape varieties.

The lie of the land

Argentina’s vineyards span a remarkable 1,600km, from the subtropical Salta at ~24°S to Patagonia at ~٤٠°S. These vineyards are shielded from the cool, moist influence of the Pacific by the impenetrable curtain of the Andes. The climate in the Argentine Andean foothills is hot and dry, with viticulture only made possible by high altitude and snowmelt. Indeed, Argentina boasts some of the highest vineyards in the world: their average altitude is 900m, and some sites in Salta are as high as 3,000m! Owing to the dry mountain air, there is little disease pressure and pesticides are barely needed. Spring frosts pose a threat, and the Zonda, a hot and fierce mountain wind, can play havoc with flowering. However, dry air and abundant sunshine ensure that grapes ripen reliably. Over-vigorous vines and excessive alcohol are perennial problems, both addressed by restricting irrigation. Flood irrigation is the norm, although drip irrigation is sometimes practised in newer vineyards. Whatever little rain there is mostly falls in summer, occasionally in the form of destructive hail, and hail nets are common. Owing to the continental geography and high altitudes, the seasons are marked, even in the subtropical north, and the diurnal temperature range can be very wide. Cool nights help to preserve acidity, but, even so, acidification is common. The high sand content of the soils and the practice of flood irrigation may help to explain why phylloxera, although present, has not had the same devastating effect as in other countries. Most vines are ungrafted, although grafting is required in newer, drip-irrigated vineyards, which are more susceptible to nematode infestations. High trellising, especially the el parral system, is commonly used to keep the grapes away from the baking ground, although vertical shoot positioning or cordon training are often preferred in newer vineyards. Argentina devotes ~220,000ha to quality wine, with over 90% of this area in Mendoza and San Juan.

Regions

Mendoza

As the condor flies, Mendoza is a mere 180km from Santiago de Chile, yet the difference in climate could not be greater. Rainfall averages just 220mm per year, one-third of that in Napa and considerably less than that in Jerez, one of Europe’s driest wine regions. Today, Mendoza consists of five irrigated ‘oases’ spread over an area roughly equivalent to New Zealand’s South Island. These five sub-regions are Upper Mendoza River, Uco Valley, North Mendoza, East Mendoza, and South Mendoza. The soils in Mendoza predominantly consist of alluvial sand on clay, although there is an unusually high amount of gravel in the Maipú district in the Upper Mendoza River sub-region.

About half of plantings are black varieties, above all Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Bonarda, and Tempranillo. A further quarter of plantings are white varieties, particularly Pedro Giménez (not to be confused with Pedro Ximénez), although Chardonnay is increasingly important, and there are also patches of Semillon, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Viognier. The remaining quarter of plantings are pink-skinned varieties such as Criolla Grande (not to be confused with Criolla Chica) and Cereza, which go into making bulk wine and grape concentrate.

The Upper Mendoza River sub-region, around the city of Mendoza itself and rising into the Andean foothills, is home to some of the finest vineyards in the country. The district of Luján de Cuyo boasts centennial Malbec vines and Argentina’s first Denominación de Origen, established in 1993 for Malbec only. Other important black varieties are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Syrah. Viticulture is creeping up the Andean slopes, with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc performing well at ~1,250m. Leading producers include Catena Zapata, Dominio del Plata, and Fabre Montmayou. On account of its gravel deposits, Maipú district, which neighbours on Luján de Cuyo, is arguably better suited to Cabernet Sauvignon. Leading producers in Maipú include Benegas and Pascual Toso.

South of Mendoza city is the scenic Uco Valley, which competes with Upper Mendoza River in the quality stakes. Big names such as Lurton, Rothschild, and Rolland have invested heavily in the Uco on account of its favourable climate and free-draining soils. Vineyards range in altitude from 900 to 1,500m, enabling grapes to finesse while retaining acidity. Malbec is dominant, although less so than in other parts of Mendoza, and the sub-region is also the traditional home of Semillon in Argentina. The Uco is fast building a reputation for Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and Pinot Gris. The Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Tempranillo are also to be reckoned with, as are the less established Syrah and Pinot Noir.

At 560 to 750m, the North Mendoza and East Mendoza sub-regions are relatively flat and low-lying, and churn out vast volumes of inexpensive wine. East Mendoza accounts for ~40% of Mendoza’s area under vine, and there are moves to drive up quality through canopy management and restrictive irrigation.

The final ‘oasis’ in Mendoza is South Mendoza, an outpost centred upon the Diamante and Atuel Rivers. Vineyards are planted at altitudes of 450 to 800m on alluvial deposits over limestone. Unexciting Criolla varieties make up around half of plantings, but fine wine is also made, notably from Bonarda, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Chenin Blanc. The San Rafael district, home to the Goyenechea winery, competes with Luján de Cuyo in laying claim to the title of first Argentine DO.

San Juan

San Juan, around the city of San Juan 170km north of Mendoza, is Argentina’s second most important wine region by volume, and also has a tradition of making fortified wine. The climate is hotter and drier than in Mendoza, with over 330 days of sunshine and ~100mm of rainfall. There are ~41,000ha under vine, but over a fifth of the crop is turned into raisins, and, of the wine produced, half is inexpensive table wine. The most important variety in San Juan is Syrah. The vineyards stretch across six valleys irrigated from the San Juan River. Of these, Tulum Valley, with vineyards at ~700m in altitude, is the most important for quality wine. Further south, the newly established Pedernal Valley, with vineyards up to ~1,300m in altitude, is building a reputation for fresher, more structured wines.

Salta and La Rioja

Further north, the climate is hotter and the vineyards higher. Salta, 1,000km north of Mendoza and near the Tropic of Capricorn, boasts some of the world’s highest vineyards ranging from ~1,650 to 3,000m in altitude. The climate at these altitudes is similar to that in Mendoza, with a large diurnal temperature range and annual rainfall of ~200mm. Viticulture is centred on the city of Cafayate in the Calchaquí Valley. With ~3,000ha under vine, production accounts for a mere one per cent of national output. Much of that is red wine, most notably Malbec, and yet Salta boasts one of Argentina’s most acclaimed and distinctive styles of Torrontés. Top producers of Salta Torrontés include El Porvenir and the larger Michel Torino.

In La Rioja, Torrontés makes up 35% of the ~8,000ha under vine. Compared to the Torrontés strain of Salta, that of La Rioja is considered less refined but easier to cultivate. Other important varieties in La Rioja include Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Bonarda. The most reputed district is Famatina Valley, with vineyards at about 800 to 1,400m in altitude.

Patagonia

Many people think of Patagonia as a land of tall, jagged mountains spilling glaciers into lakes of frosted glass, but the north of this vast territory lies at latitudes of 37-42°S, roughly equivalent to the northern latitude range of the Mediterranean Sea. The climate is continental, with cold winters and warm, dry, and extended summers marked by sunny days and cool nights. Temperatures are considerably cooler than further north, with vineyards sited at much lower altitudes. Like most of Argentina, the region lies in the rain shadow of the Andes, but there is no shortage of irrigation water from the Negro and Colorado Rivers. Patagonia accounts for a mere one per cent of Argentine vineyard area, but the focus is firmly on quality wines with strong varietal character, crisp acidity, and structured tannins. The most important varieties are Malbec, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. Most plantings are fairly recent, and the region is fast acquiring a reputation for, among others, quality sparkling wine. Rio Negro is the largest and most southerly of Patagonia’s three sub-regions, with ~1,700ha of vines extending along the Negro River. The other two sub-regions are Neuquén, named for the regional capital, and La Pampa.

Wine styles

Malbec accounts for the bulk of exports. It is often blended with Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux varieties. Argentine Malbec is very deep in colour, perhaps even inky black. All Malbec is characterized by a plummy fruit profile, but whereas Cahors tends to earthy mineral notes of ink and iron, Argentine Malbec is riper, almost jammy, with spicy notes of cinnamon and nutmeg. On the palate, it is full-bodied with soft and velvety tannins, high alcohol, and, in many cases, moderate or low acidity. Ageing in new French oak barrels is common and contributes additional dimensions. Plantings are widespread, but Mendoza is the most important region, with Luján de Cuyo and the Uco Valley arguably supplying the best fruit.

Bonarda, the second most widely planted variety, is identical to the Douce Noir (Corbeau, Charbono) of Savoie. It is turned into inexpensive table wine for the domestic market, but there are also some quality varietal expressions. These are deep purple in colour with aromas of raspberry, cherry, and plum (or prune and dried fig in the hottest sites) together with a characteristic note of fennel or aniseed. On the palate, Bonarda is generally less full-bodied than Malbec, with lighter tannins and moderate acidity.

Like Argentine Malbec, Argentine Cabernet Sauvignon is fairly visible on export markets. It is cultivated primarily from Salta to Mendoza with the best sites on the gravels soils of Maipú. It ripens so fully in Argentina that it can be turned into a varietal wine without the ‘hole in the middle’ that, in Bordeaux, calls for blending with Merlot and Malbec. Argentine Cabernet Sauvignon is deep in colour with familiar Cabernet notes of blackcurrant and capsicum. With age, higher-end examples develop notes of meat, leather, and tobacco. On the palate, the wine is generally more full-bodied, less acidic, and less tannic than Bordeaux, yet higher in acidity and more structured than Argentine Malbec. In general, Cabernet Sauvignon from the north of the country is jammier, that from the south more earthy and mineral.

On the export market, Argentine Syrah is typically encountered in a blend with Malbec, to which it contributes acidity, fresh fruit flavours, and black pepper spice. Varietal Syrah seeks to emulate either the Barossan ‘fruit bomb’ style or the more restrained and savoury style of the Northern Rhône.

Merlot thrives in Argentina’s cooler sites, especially the Uco Valley, and, increasingly, Rio Negro. Other red varietal wines include Tempranillo, Sangiovese, and Pinot Noir. The latter is yet to find a suitable home in Argentina, although Patagonia looks promising.

The name ‘Torrontés’ first appears in the 1860s in records from Mendoza. There are in fact three strains of Torrontés in Argentina: Riojana, Sanjuanino, and Mendocino. Torrontés Riojana, which accounts for 4% of Argentine plantings, is possibly a crossing of Muscat of Alexandria and Criolla Chica, and unrelated to the Torrontés of Galicia in Spain or the Terrantez/ Torrontés of Madeira. Though more difficult to cultivate than Sanjuanino and Mendocino, it is the more refined, and used in the best examples from Salta. In the glass, it is often pale gold in colour, with a muscaty nose of rose, jasmine, peach, and citrus fruits. On the palate, it is typically full-bodied and dry to off-dry depending on style. The best examples preserve a fresh acidity. Torrontés is sometimes confused with Muscat or Gewurztraminer, but is less grapey than Muscat and lacks the distinctive lychee note of Gewurztraminer. Also, compared to Gewurztraminer, the palate is less oily and more mineral.

Chardonnay is the only other Argentine white wine exported in any sizeable quantity. Most plantings are in Mendoza, yielding full-bodied wines with soft acidity and notes of tropical fruit. Cooler sites at higher altitudes in Mendoza or to the south in Patagonia yield leaner, mineral wines. Oak maturation is common. Almost all Argentine Chardonnay issues from the so-called Mendoza clone, which is also found (often under different names) throughout California, Australia, and New Zealand. The Mendoza clone is prone to millerandage, resulting in small berries, a high skin-to-fruit ratio, and a textural mouthfeel.

Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc are made in small quantities throughout the country. There are also miniscule plantings of Viognier, Riesling, and Pinot Gris.

Uruguay

In the 19th century, Basque settlers introduced Tannat to Uruguay, a small bucolic nation to the north-east of Buenos Aires. With the Andes more than 1,000km to the west, the Atlantic Ocean exerts a strong influence on the climate. High humidity and cloud cover put the vines under significant disease pressure, whence the prevalence of Lyre trellising systems to increase airflow. One-quarter of the ~8,500ha under vine are given to Tannat. Most vineyards are in the cooler south of the country, in the Canelones region around the capital Montevideo. Much as Malbec has become Argentina’s signature variety, so Tannat has become Uruguay’s. Styles range from light and fruity rosés to dark, brooding reds. The full-bodied style is deep purple with a heady aroma of plum and dark fruit, tobacco, leather, and petrichor. On the palate, the wine is often quite alcoholic but with refreshing acidity. As with Madiran, tannins are very high and can be tough or chewy.

Brazil

Brazil is South America’s third largest wine producing country by volume, with over 88,000ha under vine. The principal producing region is Rio Grande do Sul, in the far south bordering on Uruguay. This is the only area of the country with sufficiently distinct seasons for the vine to flourish—although there are also vines in the Vale do São Francisco at 9°S which fruit twice a year. The majority of plantings are American vines or hybrids, although vinifera is on the increase. Plantings of Riesling Italico (Welschriesling) and Malvasia bear witness to the early influence of Italian immigrants. But today, Brazil’s specialty is sparkling wine, especially sweet Moscato made in the Asti style from one of several Muscat strains. Dry sparkling wine is becoming more common, with increased investment in traditional method sparkling wines made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Production of red wine has recently overtaken that of white wine, with a strong focus on full-bodied styles made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.