Chapter 7: The Southern Wasatch Front: World-Class Skiing & More

This is the heart of Utah’s terrific ski country. Set amid majestic mountain scenery southeast of Salt Lake City, nestled between some of the country’s top ski resorts—including Deer Valley, Snowbird, and Alta—is an abundance of natural wonders, such as Timpanogos Cave National Monument and Provo Canyon. The towns in this area run the gamut from Park City—aka “Sin City” to some—to Provo, one the most conservative cities in the state, and the home of Brigham Young University. Over the mountains from Park City, the Heber Valley is a spectacular sight from land or air (take a balloon ride for the latter), and a hint of Hollywood even glitters in this remarkable mountain landscape, thanks to Robert Redford’s Sundance Resort near Provo and the annual hullabaloo in Park City, the Sundance Film Festival.

This chapter is arranged geographically from north to south, from the Cottonwood Canyons and Park City resorts to Provo and nearby Timpanogos Cave National Monument, with a few stops in between, including pristine Strawberry Reservoir, Sundance Resort and Institute, and even an antique train.

For a map of the Wasatch Front, see in the inside back cover of this book.

The Cottonwood Canyons Resorts

30 miles SE of downtown Salt Lake City

You say you want some snow? Here it is, some 500 inches of it piling up every year, just waiting for you powder-hungry skiers to make that short drive from Salt Lake City. Brighton and Solitude ski resorts are in Big Cottonwood Canyon, and Alta and Snowbird ski resorts are in its sister canyon, Little Cottonwood.

If you’re skiing on a budget, stay at the more affordable Salt Lake City lodgings rather than at the resorts themselves. The resorts are so close—less than an hour’s drive—that city dwellers sometimes even hit the slopes before or after a day (okay, make that a half-day) at the office.

But this area is more than just a winter playground. Big Cottonwood Canyon, cut by ancient rivers over more centuries than you can imagine, is a spectacular setting for warm-weather picnicking, camping, mountain biking, and hiking. Rugged, glacier-carved Little Cottonwood Canyon is filled with lush fields of summer wildflowers, the brilliant hues of autumn, and then a winter blanket of powder snow.

Getting There

By Car From Salt Lake City, take I-215 south to exit 7, then follow Utah 210 south. Turn east onto Utah 190 to reach Solitude and Brighton in Big Cottonwood Canyon; continue on Utah 210 south and east to Snowbird and Alta in Little Cottonwood Canyon. From Salt Lake City International Airport, it’ll take about an hour to reach any of the four ski areas.

By Bus The Utah Transit Authority ( 888/743-3882 or 801/743-3882; www.rideuta.com) provides bus service from downtown Salt Lake City hotels and various park-and-ride lots throughout the city into Big and Little Cottonwood Canyons during ski season. The cost is $7 round-trip or $1.75 for a ride between Brighton and Solitude.

By Shuttle All Resort Express ( 877/658-3999 or 435/649-3999; www.allresort.com) offers shuttles from the airport and major Salt Lake City hotels ($37 per person each way, with a two-person minimum). Wasatch Crest Shuttle ( 877/754-8294; www.wcshuttle.com), also offers shuttles starting at $85 round-trip for up to four people.

Big Cottonwood Canyon

Each turn along your drive to the summit of this 15-mile-long canyon brings you to yet another grand, dizzying vista. Rock climbers love these steep, rugged canyon walls—watch for them as you drive.

Brighton Ski Resort ★

In operation since 1936, the low-key, family-friendly Brighton Ski Resort, 12601 Big Cottonwood Canyon Rd., Brighton, UT 84121 ( 800/873-5512 or 801/532-4731; www.brightonresort.com), is where many Utahns learn to ski and snowboard thanks to the highly regarded ski and snowboard school. Children 8 and under stay and ski free with their parents, and teens particularly enjoy the bumps of Lost Maid Trail as it winds through the woods. But don’t let its reputation as a beginner’s mountain fool you: Brighton’s slopes are graced with a full range of terrain, all the powder you can imagine, and virtually no crowds. More Utahns than out-of-staters hit the slopes here—Brighton is located just 35 miles from downtown Salt Lake City at the top of Big Cottonwood Canyon, and visitors tend to stay away because of the paucity of area lodgings. Elbow room is plentiful on the intermediate and advanced slopes, even on the weekends, and you may have them all to yourself on weekdays. Snowboarders will delight to know that this is one of the state’s top snowboarding destinations. Plus, you needn’t leave after dark: Brighton lights up 200 acres for night skiing.

Brighton has six quad lifts, one triple, and a Magic Carpet serving over 1,050 acres in the Wasatch-Cache National Forest. The lift-served vertical drop is 1,745 feet, accessible by hiking. Base elevation is 8,755 feet. Of the 66 runs, 21% are rated beginner, 40% intermediate, and 39% advanced. Lifts are open daily from 9am to 4pm, mid-November to mid-April, with night skiing and snowboarding Monday through Saturday from 4 to 9pm from early December to March. The resort can make snow on 200 acres, but with 500 inches of average snowfall per year, the man-made stuff isn’t usually necessary.

Brighton has a beautiful day lodge, with ticket windows, restrooms, a common area, a ski rental and repair facility, and a convenient bus depot.

Lift Tickets Adult all-day passes cost $62; night skiing is $34. Children 8 to 12 are $29, but those 8 and under ski free with an adult (with a maximum of two kids per paying adult). Seniors 70 and over are $35.

Lessons & Programs Brighton Ski & Snowboard School ( 800/873-5512, ext. 209), in the Alpine Rose building, offers both private and group lessons. Group lessons cost $45 for adults and private lessons start at $85 for 1 hour. Night skiing lessons cost $45, including a lift ticket. The ski and snowboard school also offers a variety of workshops and clinics, including a telemark series as well as adult parallel, senior, children’s, and women’s workshops.

Where to Stay & Eat Brighton Lodge, at the ski resort ( 800/873-5512, ext. 120; www.brightonresort.com), has 20 units, ranging from dorm-style rooms (which sleep up to four) to luxurious suites, with rates of $129 to $209 double. The lodge’s large outdoor Jacuzzi will help loosen those sore muscles for your next day of skiing. Room tax is about 12%. You’ll find cafeteria-style dining for all three meals and a bar that opens for lunch and stays open through après-ski and dinner. Another option is Mount Majestic Properties ( 801/824-4700; www.mountmajestic.com), which rents all manner of mountain homes and condominiums for $150 a night and up.

Warm-Weather Fun Mountain biking and hiking are popular activities, but note that lifts are not open in summer.

The Ski Salt Lake Super Pass

If you want to experience all of the Cottonwood Canyons resorts, your best deal is the Ski Salt Lake Super Pass, starting at $192 adults and $105 children ages 7 to 12 for 3 days of access to the four resorts including transportation on UTA buses. Four- to 6-day passes are also available, as are 1- and 2-day passes in conjunction with lodging. Visit www.ski-saltlake.com to buy a pass or learn more.

Solitude Mountain Resort

Solitude, 12000 Big Cottonwood Canyon, Solitude, UT 84121 ( 800/748-4754 or 801/534-1400; snow report 801/536-5777; www.skisolitude.com), is a friendly, family-oriented resort that hasn’t been “discovered” yet, so lift lines are virtually nonexistent. The snow is terrific, and it’s easy to reach—it’s in Big Cottonwood Canyon, just 28 miles from downtown Salt Lake City. Like its next-door neighbor, Brighton—which is connected to Solitude via the Solbright Trail—Solitude enjoys excellent powder and few crowds. Its 1,200-plus acres of skiable terrain range from well-groomed, sunny beginner and intermediate trails to gently pitched bowls and glades. The mountain is well designed, with runs laid out so beginners won’t suddenly find themselves in more difficult terrain. Intermediates have wide-open bowls in which to cruise and practice their powder skiing, several excellent forest runs, and some great bumpy stretches on which to hone their mogul skills. Advanced skiers have many long fall lines, open powder areas, and steeply graded chutes.

Solitude is the state’s only downhill ski area with a world-class Nordic center out its back door: The University of Utah and U.S. Olympic teams train here. The resort also has an ice-skating rink.

Three high-speed quad lifts, two fixed-grip quads, one triple, and two doubles service 65 runs and three bowls. Runs are rated 20% beginner, 50% intermediate, and 30% advanced/expert. The resort is open from early November to late April, daily from 9am to 4pm. With a summit elevation of 10,035 feet and a vertical drop of 2,047 feet, Solitude receives an average yearly snowfall of more than 500 inches.

Great Cross-Country Skiing

Solitude Nordic Center ★★ is Utah’s oldest cross-country ski area. It has about 12 miles of groomed trails, including a children’s trail. The center is located between Solitude and Brighton at 8,700 feet and connects the two downhill resorts. Trails pass through alpine forests and meadows and around frozen Silver Lake. The Silver Lake Day Lodge offers rentals, equipment for sale, lessons, and light snacks. Trail passes for ages 11 to 69 cost $17 for a full day, $12 for a half-day. Those 10 and under or 70 and over ski free.

Lift Tickets All-day passes cost $68 for adults, $45 for seniors 70 and older, $42 for kids 7 to 14, and those 6 and under ski free. Afternoon half-day adult lift tickets are $56.

Lessons & Programs Solitude’s ski school offers group and private lessons. Adult group classes (lift ticket included) are $80 for a half-day, $95 for all day; call for rates for customized private lessons ( 801/536-5730). The Moonbeam Kid’s Program, for kids 4 through 12, offers an all-day learn-to-ski program, including lunch, lift ticket, and rental, for $135; the afternoon-only program is $75.

Where to Stay & Eat The Inn at Solitude ( 877/517-7717; www.innatsolitude.com) is a full-service luxury hotel, with 46 rooms and nightly rates from $209 to $449 during ski season (lower in summer). Its restaurant, St. Bernard’s, offers fine dining with a menu from Europe’s Alpine regions. Breakfast and dinner are served.

The resort also manages numerous condo units and private homes, with ski season prices ranging from $236 to over $1,000.

Adjacent to the Apex Chairlift and with terrific views of the mountain, the day lodge Last Chance Mining Camp offers hearty lunches, and après-ski refreshments. The Moonbeam Lodge has a cafeteria for breakfast and lunch and a pub for dinner and libations. Kimi’s Mountainside Bistro is nestled on the canyon floor and offers gourmet dinners and weekend brunches. The Thirsty Squirrel is a pub in the base village with an in-house sushi bar open weekend nights. Also in the village is Stone Haus, serving pizza and ice cream for lunch and dinner.

For an unusual experience, reserve dinner at the Yurt ( 801/536-5709), in the forest above the main lodge. You can either cross-country ski or snowshoe through the evergreens to get to your elegant five-course gourmet meal for $100 per person, served at a table set with linen, silver, and crystal. Dress is casual, but the meal isn’t. Advance reservations are recommended after mid-October.

Room tax in this area is 13.6%.

Warm-Weather Fun Solitude remains open in summer, offering chairlift rides, mountain bike and scooter rentals, 18-hole mountainside disc golf, and a place to hike or just kick back and watch the wildflowers grow.

Little Cottonwood Canyon

With towering peaks rising 11,000 feet above the road on both sides, Utah 210 takes you on a lovely scenic drive through the canyon. Located at the junction of Utah 209 and Utah 210, the mouth of Little Cottonwood Canyon is where pioneers quarried the granite used to build the LDS Church’s Salt Lake City Temple.

Alta Ski Area ★★★

Alta, P.O. Box 8007, Alta, UT 84092-8007 ( 801/359-1078; snow report 801/572-3939; www.alta.com), is famous for its snow—over 500 inches per year of some of the lightest powder in the world—and at $72 for an all-day lift ticket, it’s an excellent value. Located about 45 minutes southeast of Salt Lake City, at the top of Little Cottonwood Canyon, Alta is an excellent choice for serious skiers of all levels. Beginners have their share of runs, and the more adventurous novices can even try a bit of easygoing tree skiing through the woods. Intermediates will find plenty of open cruising ground, forested areas, and long, arcing chutes to glide through, plus opportunities to work on their bumps technique (try Challenger for a moderately pitched set) or practice their turns in the powder. Experts will find an abundance of the Cottonwood Canyons’ famous powder and spectacular runs, like steep, long Alf’s High Rustler. Alta offers much for the expert and the extreme skier—far too much to cover here—but hard-core skiers should know that you’ll have to step out of the bindings and do a bit of hiking to get to some of the longest drops and best powder-laden runs. And this is a true skier’s mountain: Alta is one of the few Western ski areas left that forbids snowboarding.

Alta’s fans are many and loyal. That’s because the emphasis here is on quality skiing, and to protect that quality, Alta has chosen to limit its uphill capacity. This is a classic ski resort, with both European-style terrain and sensibilities. This means that people are turned away on those occasions when the ski gods determine there are already enough skiers on the mountain. An announcement is made on 530 AM radio about a half-hour before the closure.

More than 100 runs are served by two detachable quads, one detachable triple, one triple, three doubles, three surface tows, and a moving conveyor. Alta has 2,200 skiable acres, with snow-making on 50 acres. Although it’s famous for its expert runs, Alta also has fine beginner and intermediate trails. The breakdown is 25% beginner, 40% intermediate, and 35% advanced, with a base elevation of 8,530 feet rising to 10,550 feet at the top, yielding a vertical drop of 2,020 feet. Alta is generally open from mid-November to mid-April, with lifts operating daily from 9:15am to 4:30pm.

Alta Ski Lifts Company owns and operates only the ski area; all other businesses and services are privately run. At the base of Albion and Sunnyside lifts is a day lodge with a cafeteria, lift-ticket sales, day care, the ski school, and rentals. Two more cafeterias are located on the mountain. A transfer tow connects the Albion and Wildcat lift areas; in this base area, there are four lodges with dining facilities, ski rentals, and kids’ programs.

Lift Tickets All-day, all-lift tickets cost $72, with half-day tickets at $60. Beginner lifts only are $38, as are children 12 and under. Combination lift tickets are available for both Alta and Snowbird. The area also has a “Ski Free After 3” ticket, which allows beginners to test out some of the easiest terrain in Albion Basin for an hour and a half at the end of the day.

Lessons & Programs Founded in 1948 by Alf Engen, the highly regarded ski school ( 801/799-2271) is recognized for its contribution to the development of professional ski instruction. Two-hour group lessons cost $50; private instruction starts at $95 for a 1-hour lesson. The Children’s Ski Adventures program, for ages 4 to 12, offers fun skill development, and lessons in ski etiquette. Choose either a half- or all-day program.

Alta’s day-care program ( 801/742-3042; www.altachildrenscenter.com) is open to children ages 2 months to 10 years old; reservations are encouraged. Call for current rates.

Where to Stay & Eat The best places to stay in Alta are slope-side. The following accommodations add a 15% service charge to your bill in lieu of tipping; room tax adds about 13%.

Alta Lodge ( 800/707-2582 or 801/742-3500; www.altalodge.com) is perhaps the quintessential mountain ski lodge—simple and rustic, with a touch of class. The lodge has Jacuzzis, saunas, a general store, a kids’ program, a bar, and a restaurant with superb food. The comfortable units range from small and basic dormitory rooms to handsome corner rooms with fireplaces and a balcony. Rates, including breakfast and dinner, range from $290 to $554 for two, or $108 to $146 per bed (less for kids) in a dorm room.

Rustler Lodge ( 888/532-2582 for reservations, or 801/742-2200; www.rustlerlodge.com) is elegant yet relaxed, with a great mountain-lodge ambience, a spa, and rooms that range from basic to deluxe (several two-room suites are available). Rates, including full breakfast and dinner, range from $270 to $950 for two; a bed for one in a dorm room, with breakfast and dinner, costs $150 to $200.

The value here is the Alta Peruvian ( 800/453-8488 or 801/742-3000), featuring lodging and three meals for $107 to $132 in dorms, $119 to $158 double with shared bathroom, and $150 to $204 double with private bathroom. Suites are $169 to $276 double. The funky bar here is the best après-ski spot on the mountain.

Snowbird Ski & Summer Resort ★★

The combination of super skiing and snowboarding plus super facilities lures both hard-core enthusiasts seeking spectacular powder, and those who enjoy the pampering that accompanies a stay at a full-service resort. Consistently rated among America’s top-10 ski resorts, Snowbird, P.O. Box 929000, Snowbird, UT 84092-9000 ( 800/232-9542 or 801/933-2222, and 801/933-2100 for snow conditions; www.snowbird.com), is Alta’s “younger, slicker sister.” The same wonderful snow falls here, but this resort has a wider range of amenities, including Snowbird’s extremely popular spa and salon—worth the trip even if you don’t ski. Some, however, find Snowbird’s dense, modern village and resort atmosphere cold compared to Alta’s historic, European-style lodges and classic, ruggedly Western atmosphere and attitude.

Many expert skiers absolutely worship Snowbird, however, with plunging cliff runs like Great Scott, one of the steepest runs in the country. Mogul-meisters will want to take the Peruvian or Gad II lifts to a great variety of fall lines on some steep and sinuous runs.

But beginners and intermediates haven’t been forgotten, and their runs are also top-notch. There are even some “family-only” ski zones. Novices might want to head over to explore West Second South, set in a woodsy glade, or the less crowded Baby Thunder area. Intermediates will enjoy the excellent runs coming off the Gad II lift; if you decide to take the tram, wait around a bit at the top while your fellow riders take off so that you’ll have these blue runs all to yourself—the next tramload won’t get dumped off for another 5 minutes.

The entire mountain is open to snowboarders, and the resort also provides snowmobile adventures and cat skiing and snowboarding.

Snowbird has 85 runs on 2,500 acres, rated 27% beginner, 38% intermediate, and 35% advanced. The ski season generally runs from mid-November to mid-May, although the record 783 inches—that’s over 60 feet—of snow that fell in 2010–11 allowed Snowbird to keep the lifts running through the Fourth of July—the latest lift-served skiing ever in Utah. From a base elevation of 7,760 feet, the vertical rise of 3,240 feet reaches Hidden Peak at 11,000 feet.

An aerial tram transports 125 skiers and boarders at a time up 2,900 vertical feet to Hidden Peak in about 7 minutes. It’s quick, but can feel like a crowded New York City subway car. Snowbird also has four high-speed detachable quads, six doubles, and two conveyor lifts, giving it a total uphill capacity of 17,400 skiers per hour. The tram and lifts operate between 9am and 4:30pm daily, except for one that operates until 8:30pm for night skiing Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays.

Off the Slopes at Snowbird

Don’t miss the popular Cliff Spa ( 801/933-2225), which offers a lap pool and huge whirlpool, aerobic and weight-training rooms, and individual treatment rooms for massages, body wraps, mud baths, and hydrotherapy. The Snowbird Canyon Racquet Club ( 801/947-8200), 15 minutes from the slopes, features 23 tennis courts (10 indoor), racquetball, and aerobic and cardiovascular facilities. Snowbird provides a variety of facilities for children, including a state-licensed day-care center and a youth camp; call for details.

Lift Tickets Adult lift tickets cost $72 for a full day and $62 for a half-day for lifts only; for both lifts and tram, the cost is $78 and $68, respectively. Children 7 to 12 are charged $42 including tram, and seniors 65 and over are charged $65, or $59 half-day. Children 6 and under can ride the lifts for free and the tram for $15. Combination lift tickets are available for both Snowbird and Alta.

Lessons & Programs The ski and snowboarding school ( 801/947-8222) offers an all-day class (which includes lunch); a package for first-timers; and specialized workshops for racers, women, snowboarders, half-pipe riders, and seniors. Two-and-a-half-hour workshops start at $100.

Established in 1977, Snowbird’s Wasatch Adaptive Sports Program ( 801/933-2188; www.wasatchadaptivesports.org) is among the best special-needs sports programs in the country. Using state-of-the-art adaptive ski devices and a team of specially trained instructors, the program is available to children and adults alike. Sit-skis, mono-skis, and outriggers are available at no extra cost.

Heli-Skiing Between December 15 and April 15, helicopter skiing is available on more than 40,000 acres from Wasatch Powderbird Guides ( 800/974-4354 or 801/742-2800; www.powderbird.com). Daily rates (seven runs, a continental breakfast, and lunch) are $980 to $1,000 per person from mid-January through the third week of March, and $875 to $910 per person at other times.

Where to Stay & Eat The approximately 900 rooms at Snowbird range from standard lodge units to luxurious condominiums with kitchens and fireplaces; almost every unit has a terrific view. Snowbird Central Reservations ( 800/453-3000) books all lodging for the resort and can also arrange ground transportation. Room tax adds about 11.6%; resort fees add another $6 to $20 per night.

The Cliff Lodge & Spa is located in a ski-in, ski-out pedestrian mall. Practically all of the 511 rooms, with mission-style furnishings, have splendid views of the mountain or canyon. Choose a standard or extra-large room, or a one- or two-bedroom suite. You’ll find a splendid spa, restaurants, shops, and practically anything else you might want. Rooms are $189 to $389 double in ski season, and suites start around $500.

The Lodge at Snowbird, the Inn, and Iron Blosam Lodge are condominium properties, offering rooms, efficiencies, studios, and one-bedroom and one-bedroom-with-loft units. Many have Western decor with Murphy beds and/or sofa beds. Winter rates range from $139 to $299 for a room at the Inn to $350 or more for a deluxe room in the Lodge at Snowbird.

The Aerie Restaurant ( 801/933-2160), on the top floor of the Cliff Lodge, features New American dining with spectacular views, and serves a skier’s breakfast buffet in the winter, and sushi and “gastro-pub” specialties for dinner year-round. Entree prices range from $20 to $40. Also in the Cliff Lodge, El Chanate ( 801/933-2025) serves Mexican seafood for lunch and dinner in the summer, dinner-only in winter. Dinner prices range from $8 to $25. On level B of the Cliff Lodge is the Atrium ( 801/933-2140), with tremendous alpine views. It features a buffet lunch in winter and a light breakfast buffet in summer, with prices from $12 to $22. The Atrium Espresso Bar is open daily.

For steak and seafood, try the Steak Pit ( 801/933-2260), in the Snowbird Center, open for dinner daily. Prices range from $19 to $45. Also in the Snowbird Center is the Forklift Restaurant ( 801/933-2440), serving breakfast and lunch daily. Prices range from $7 to $11.

The Lodge Bistro ( 801/933-2145) is on the pool level in the Lodge at Snowbird, offering an eclectic dinner menu in an intimate setting. Italian fare is offered for dinner daily at Iron Blosam’s Wildflower ( 801/933-2230). Entrees at both range from $10 to $35.

Warm-Weather Fun After the skiers go home for the season, Snowbird is still active with hikers and mountain bikers. A lift hauls mountain bikers up the slopes. Snowbird’s summer music program includes several annual festivals; call or visit the website for details.

Park City: Utah’s Premier Resort Town ★★

31 miles E of Salt Lake City

Utah’s most sophisticated resort community, Park City, is reminiscent of Aspen, Colorado, and Taos, New Mexico—other historic Western towns that have made the most of excellent ski terrain while evolving into popular year-round vacation destinations, offering a casual Western atmosphere with a touch of elegance.

A silver boom brought thousands to Park City in the 1870s, and that boom continued for 50 years, giving Park City a population of 10,000 at its height, with more than 30 saloons along Main Street and a flourishing red-light district. Then came the Depression and plummeting mineral prices, leaving Park City to doze in the summer sun and under a blanket of winter snow. In 1963, the area’s first ski lift was built (rates were $2.50 for a weekend of sledding and skiing), and Park City was on the road to becoming one of the West’s most popular ski towns. The 2002 Olympics helped cement its reputation internationally.

Today’s visitors will find three separate ski areas, lodgings that range from basic to luxurious, some of the state’s most innovative restaurants and best shops, an abundance of fine performing arts events, many of Utah’s liveliest nightspots, and plenty of hiking, mountain biking, fishing, and other outdoor opportunities.

As in many tourist towns, prices here can be a bit steep; if you’re watching your wallet, avoid visiting during the Christmas season or the Sundance Film Festival in mid- to late January, when Hollywood takes over. Those who are really pinching pennies might want to stay in Salt Lake City and drive to Park City in the morning for a day of skiing, exploring, or adventuring.

Essentials

Getting There Most visitors fly into Salt Lake City International Airport and drive or take a shuttle to Park City. Driving time from the airport is about 35 minutes. At I-80 exit 145, take Utah 224 into Park City.

Park City Transportation ( 800/637-3803 or 435/649-8567; www.parkcitytransportation.com) offers frequent shuttles from the Salt Lake City airport and hotels ($78 round-trip). All Resort Express ( 877/658-3999 or 435/649-3999; www.allresort.com) and Wasatch Crest Shuttle ( 877/754-8294; www.wcshuttle.com) also serve the area.

The Park City Area

Visitor Information The Park City Chamber of Commerce/Convention and Visitors Bureau, 1910 Prospector Ave. (P.O. Box 1630), Park City, UT 84060 ( 800/453-1360 or 435/649-6100; www.visitparkcity.com), is open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm. It operates a visitor information center in Kimball Junction near the entrance to the Utah Olympic Park near I-80, open Monday through Saturday from 9am to 5pm and Sunday from 10am to 5pm, and another at 333 Main St., open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 7pm and Sunday from noon to 6pm; both have shorter hours in the off season.

Step Back in Time

Be sure to pick up a copy of the Park City Main Street Historic Walking Tour brochure at the visitor information center. It will lead you to 45 buildings and historic sites that have somehow managed to survive fires, hard times, and progress through the decades. The historic walk, complete with engaging anecdotes, really brings the town’s lively past to life.

Getting Around Parking in Park City is limited, especially in the historic Main Street area, and it is just plain awful if you’re driving a motor home or pulling a trailer. If you’ve arrived in a car, the best plan is to park it and ride the free city bus. Main Street has metered parking (in effect daily 11am–8pm); fairly large parking lots are situated near both the upper and lower ends of Main Street.

If you still want to rent a car and brave the parking problems, rental agencies here include All Resort Car Rental, 1821 Sidewinder Dr. ( 877/658-3999 or 435/649-3999; www.allresort.com), and Enterprise, 2720 W. Rasmussen Rd. ( 800/261-7331 or 435/655-7277; www.enterprise.com).

Park City’s very efficient free transit system offers several routes throughout Park City and the surrounding area, daily from 7:30am until 10:30pm. The Main Street Trolley links Main Street and Park City Mountain Resort, and public buses travel to the outlying areas. Pick up the Transit System Guide brochure for a good route map and specific schedules. The weekly booklet This Week in Park City contains helpful info plus several area maps, including one of Main Street. Both are available at the visitor centers and many lodgings.

Fast Facts To take care of injury or illness, go to Park City Healthcare, 1665 Bonanza Dr. ( 435/649-7640; www.parkcityclinic.com). The main post office is at 450 Main St. ( 800/275-8777; www.usps.com). The local newspaper is the Park Record (www.parkrecord.com), published twice weekly.

Skiing the Park City Area Resorts

The three area ski resorts, all within a few minutes’ drive of each other, are vastly different. There’s something for everyone here: Posh Deer Valley is Utah’s version of very upscale Beaver Creek, Colorado, and big and lively Park City is the party resort. The Canyons is casual and friendly. Snowboarders are welcome at Park City Mountain Resort and the Canyons, but not Deer Valley.

Many skiers try all three resorts, and if you’re going to do so, it will pay to do a bit of advance planning. The Silver Passport is a discounted multiday package for use at all three resorts. Various restrictions apply, though, including that the passport must be purchased before your arrival in Park City, and that it must be purchased in conjunction with lodging (3-night minimum). Contact the Park City Chamber of Commerce for details.

Deer Valley Resort ★★★

If you’re looking for a first-class experience in every way, this is the spot for you. Unquestionably Utah’s most elegant and sophisticated resort, Deer Valley, P.O. Box 889, Park City, UT 84060 ( 800/424-3337 or 435/649-1000, or 435/649-2000 for snow conditions; www.deervalley.com), offers perfectly manicured slopes, guest service attendants, heated sidewalks, and some of the state’s finest dining and lodging. Along with all this, you get fantastic skiing—especially if you crave long, smooth, perfectly groomed cruising runs that let you enjoy the spectacular mountain scenery around you. Although half of the terrain is rated intermediate, beginners love Success, a long run that gives them the feeling they’re actually getting somewhere. In addition, much of the intermediate terrain is fit for advancing novices, as the entire mountain is kept very skiable. Experts will find some steep, exhilarating-enough trails on top, through majestic aspen and evergreen glades, plus plenty of woodsy terrain to explore. Deer Valley is primarily a pampering resort experience, meant for cruising the wide lanes of impeccably groomed snow all day, then hobnobbing all evening with the rich—and often famous—over gourmet meals in the plush lodges.

Six bowls and 100 runs are spread over Empire Canyon, Deer Crest, Flagstaff, Bald, and Bald Eagle mountains, served by a total of 21 chairlifts—11 high-speed quad lifts, a high-speed gondola, two fixed-grip quads, five triples, and two double chairs. The base is at 6,570 feet with the summit at 9,570 feet, yielding a 3,000-foot vertical drop. The ski season generally runs from early December to mid-April, with lifts operating daily from 9am to 4:15pm. The 2,026 skiable acres are rated 15% beginner, 50% intermediate, and 35% advanced. Deer Valley has snow-making on over 660 acres.

Getting There From Utah 224, head southeast on Deer Valley Drive to the resort.

Lift Tickets All-day lift tickets cost $96 for adults ($100 during holidays), $60 for children 4 to 12, $21 for children 3 and under, and $69 for seniors 65 and older. Half-day and multiday packages are available.

Lessons & Programs The ski school ( 435/645-6648) at Deer Valley offers private and group lessons, workshops, and clinics. Group lessons for 3 hours cost about $155 for adults (not including lift ticket); private lessons are also available.

The licensed child-care center, open daily from 8:30am to 4:30pm, costs $115 to $120 per day for kids ages 2 months to 12 years, and includes lunch.

Where to Eat on the Mountain Snow Park Lodge ( 435/645-6632), at the base, has a bakery, two restaurants, and a lounge. The Seafood Buffet, open Monday through Saturday evenings, offers hearty hot meals, a salad and seafood buffet, and fancy desserts. Snow Park Lounge serves hors d’oeuvres after 3:30pm.

Silver Lake Lodge ( 435/645-6715), midway up the mountain, serves a variety of quick-and-easy food all day, including continental breakfasts (with fresh-baked pastries), salads, grilled fare, and pizzas. You can also choose from two fine-dining rooms, the Mariposa, open evenings only, and Royal Street Café, open for lunch, après-ski, and dinner. Fireside Dining at Empire Canyon Lodge ( 435/645-6632) is a unique alpine dining room offering Continental lunch and dinner menus, while also serving as a base for moonlight sleigh rides and snowshoe treks.

Park City Mountain Resort ★★

Park City Mountain Resort, 1345 Lowell Ave. (P.O. Box 39), Park City, UT 84060 ( 800/222-7275 or 435/649-8111, or 435/647-5449 for snow reports; www.parkcitymountain.com), one of Utah’s largest and liveliest resorts, is where the U.S. Ski and Snowboard Olympic team comes to train. It’s an official training site of the U.S. Ski and Snowboard Association as well. What brings them here? Plenty of dependable, powdery snow and a variety of terrain and runs that offers something for everyone. Surveys continually rank Park City among the country’s top resorts for both its terrain and its challenging runs. And, because it’s located right in the heart of Park City, what more could you ask for in terms of amenities?

Beginners will find plenty of great training ground, blessedly free of that frequent mountain problem—hordes of advanced skiers whizzing their way right through the green runs on their way to the bottom. After they have a good handle on the sport, beginners and novices can head up the lift to Summit House and then glide down their own scenic 3 1/2-mile green run. Intermediates will find good cruising ground and powder runs; experts can delight in some 750 acres of wide-open bowls and hair-raising narrow chutes. After a good storm, the locals know to rise early, race to the top of the Jupiter Bowl, and carve their way back down through fresh powder.

The resort has four six-passenger high-speed lifts, three high-speed quads, seven triples, and two double chairs servicing 114 runs on 3,300 acres, plus two Magic Carpet people movers in the children’s learning area. There’s even a triple-chair access lift directly from Park City’s Old Town onto the mountain, as well as two runs (Quit ’n’ Time and Creole) that lead back into town, so those staying in Park City proper don’t have to ride back and forth to the base resort every day. Trails are rated 17% beginner, 52% intermediate, and 31% expert. With a base elevation of 6,900 feet and summit of 10,000 feet, the vertical drop is 3,100 feet. The season generally runs from late November to mid-April, with lifts operating daily between 9am and 4pm. Night operations usually run from Christmas through late March from 4 to 7:30pm, and include a snowboard park. Park City has snow-making capabilities on 500 acres.

The Resort Center, at the base of the mountain, houses the ski school, equipment sales and rentals, a restaurant and bar, lockers, and a ticket office.

Getting There The resort is off of Main Street, Park City.

Lift Tickets All-day lift ticket fees vary throughout the season, but typically run $90 to $95 for adults, $55 for children 7 to 12, and $60 for seniors. Night skiing is in the $40 to $60 range. Half-day rates are also available. Children 6 and under ski free.

Lessons & Programs The Park City Mountain Resort Ski and Snowboard School ( 800/227-2754) offers a wide variety of choices for every level, plus a Kids Signature Program for ages 3 to 14 that includes equipment rental, a snack, lunch, and lessons. Group lessons start at $80 for 3 hours, a half-day private lesson starts at around $400, and a full day for kids starts at about $150. Customized packages are available.

Where to Eat on the Mountain In addition to the wide variety of options in Park City (see “Where to Eat,” later in this chapter), you’ll find the following slope-side facilities. Only Viking Yurt requires reservations.

The Food Court, at the Legacy Lodge, offers homemade breakfast and dinner buffets. For lunch, it offers soups and stews, sandwiches, pizza, a salad bar, and fresh roasted meats. Legends Bar & Grill offers lunch and après-ski refreshments.

Mid-Mountain Lodge is at the base of Pioneer Lift on the Mid-Mountain Ski Run, at 8,700 feet. Built around 1898, the lodge may be the oldest original mine building in Park City. It’s open daily for lunch, serving vegetarian dishes, homemade soups and stews, salads, burgers, sandwiches, and pizza.

Summit House, at the top of the Bonanza chairlift, serves lunch and boasts an outdoor deck with magnificent panoramic views and a cozy fireplace inside. The Snow Hut, at the bottom of the Silverlode six-passenger lift, serves breakfast and lunch daily.

The most refined and recommended eatery here is the Viking Yurt, accessible by sleigh ride. It’s open from 6 to 10pm and serves a five-course, prix-fixe dinner for $125. Advance reservations are required. Call 435/615-9878, or visit www.vikingyurt.com for additional information.

The Canyons

The Canyons Resort, 4000 The Canyons Resort Dr., Park City, UT 84098 ( 888/226-9667 or 435/649-5400, or snow report 435/615-3456; www.thecanyons.com), the state of Utah’s largest ski area, offers a wide variety of terrain on eight distinct mountains, with an excellent people-moving system to get you to the ski runs quickly and efficiently. In the past few years, intermediate and expert terrains have been greatly expanded. The large beginners’ area offers gentle slopes and grand views.

The resort has 182 runs, 4,000 skiable acres, serviced by two high-speed gondolas, one high-speed six-pack, four high-speed quad chairs, five fixed-grip quad chairs, one triple chair, one double chair, one eight-person Cabriolet, and two surface lifts. It receives an average of 355 inches of snow a year, and has snow-making on 400 acres. The vertical drop serviced by lifts is 3,190 feet, from a base elevation of 6,800 feet. The summit elevation is 9,990 feet. Runs are rated 10% beginner, 44% intermediate, and 46% advanced. The season usually runs from early December to mid-April, with lifts operating daily from 9am to 4pm.

The resort offers ski and snowboard rentals and a day-care center.

Getting There The Canyons is on the west side of Utah 224 a few miles south of I-80.

Lift Tickets Adult lift tickets start at $96 for a full day; children 7 to 12 and seniors pay $57. Kids 6 and under ride the lifts free. Deals are available for those who book online or for multiple days; holiday prices are a bit higher.

Lessons & Programs The ski school ( 877/472-6306) offers lessons for both skiing and snowboarding, starting at $83 for a 2 1/2-hour group clinic. Private lessons start at about $400 for 3 hours.

Where to Stay & Eat on the Mountain You’ll find a nice range of lodging options at the resort proper, including the Grand Summit Hotel, Sundial Lodge, and Waldorf Astoria Park City. The ski-season rates range from $340 for a double room at Sundial to $1,758 for a four-bedroom suite at the Waldorf Astoria. Among the ski area’s restaurants are the Red Pine Lodge, featuring lunches of pizza, fresh grilled entrees, hearty soups, and a salad bar; Lookout Cabin, specializing in Rocky Mountain cuisine for lunch and featuring spectacular views from its perch atop Lookout Peak; and the Farm, featuring New American cuisine at the foot of the Red Pine Gondola.

Ski Them All in Just 1 Day

Ski Utah’s Interconnect Adventure Tour is unique. Six full-time guides take a dozen skiers on journeys to the slopes of four to six of Utah’s renowned resorts—and about 20 miles of untracked backcountry in between.

“If you’re a good skier and looking for a day of adventure, come out with us,” says Deb Lovci, one of the guides and owner of the Old Town Guest House in Park City (see “Where to Stay” in Park City, below). “It’s an awesome way to see how the whole Wasatch is connected.”

Tours visit the Deer Valley, Park City Mountain, Solitude Mountain, Brighton, and Snowbird resorts, and the Alta Ski Area, and use the backcountry routes to navigate between the resorts. These rarely used routes offer incredible views of some of the most majestic terrain in the Rockies.

Interested skiers should know a few things before making reservations. Skiers should be advanced, comfortable with skiing a variety of terrains and snow conditions, and in good physical condition. “It’s a long day,” Lovci notes. Be sure to make reservations in advance—these popular tours fill up around holidays and on weekends. Tours are done completely with alpine gear.

The trip is offered daily from mid-December to mid-April, weather permitting, departing from either Deer Valley Resort (Sun–Mon, Wed, and Fri; ) or Snowbird Ski & Summer Resort (Tues, Thurs, and Sat; ), and costs $295, including lunch, lift tickets at all resorts, guide service, and transportation—and a much-deserved finisher’s pin. Participants must be at least 16, and snowboarding is not permitted.

For additional information, call Ski Utah at 801/534-1907, or visit www.skiutah.com/interconnect.

More Winter Fun

Cross-Country Skiing White Pine Nordic Center ( 435/649-6249; www.whitepinetouring.com) operates Park City’s cross-country ski center, with more than 12 miles of groomed trails on the Park City Golf Course on Utah 224, on the north side of town. The center offers rentals, instruction (including skating and telemark lessons), guided tours, and sales and service. The terrain is rated 60% beginner, 20% intermediate, and 20% advanced. Full-day trail passes cost $18 for adults, $8 for kids 6 to 12; children 5 and under and seniors 65 and over ski free. White Pine is open daily from 9am to 6pm, usually from mid-November through March.

Snowmobile & Sleigh Rides Guided snowmobiling tours and sleigh rides are available at the scenic Rockin’ R Ranch, east of Park City in Weber Canyon, from Rocky Mountain Recreation ( 800/303-7256 or 435/645-7256; www.rockymtnrec.com). A sleigh ride, with dinner, costs about $80 for adults, $60 for children 12 and under. Snowmobile trips range from $95 to $198 for the driver ($20–$48 for a passenger), depending on length. Also offering a variety of snowmobile tours is Deer Valley’s Summit Mountain Adventures ( 888/896-7669 or 435/645-7669; www.utahsnowmobiling.com), with similar rates.

The Olympics Live On

Park City’s $100-million Utah Olympic Park, 3000 Bear Hollow Dr. ( 435/658-4200; www.olyparks.com), constructed for the 2002 Olympics, has six state-of-the-art ski jumps, a 1,335m bobsled/luge track, a freestyle aerials training and competition hill, a day lodge, a ski museum, and an exhibit on the 2002 games. The U.S. Ski Team uses the facility regularly, and it’s open year-round for both guided and self-guided tours. In summer, extreme types can try out riding a pair of ziplines on the ski jumps ($15–$20 for the first ride, subsequent rides are half price) or an alpine slide ($15 for the first, $7.50 for the second), the first on the continent made of stainless steel. On summer Saturdays, national team members demonstrate freestyle aerials and ski jumping. The Olympic Park also offers piloted bobsled runs ($60 for the first ride, $30 for a second run) and skeleton rides ($50), and schedules workshops on freestyle aerials and ski jumping, even for amateurs (call for schedules and rates). Besides the fees for the assorted activities, admission is free.

Warm-Weather Fun In & Around Park City

Alpine Slide In addition to the stainless steel slide at the Utah Olympic Park (see above), a plastic bobsledlike track over a half-mile long is housed at Park City Mountain Resort . Riders control the speed of their sleds. Cost is $11 to $12 for adults and $3 for passengers ages 2 to 6; those 1 and under cannot ride. The resort also has an alpine coaster ($20–$22 adults, $7–$8 kid passengers), ziplines ($14–$20 per ride), and other adrenaline-pumping amusements.

Ballooning Call Park City Balloon Adventures ( 800/396-8787 or 435/645-8787; www.pcballoonadventures.com) for bird’s-eye views of the mountains. Prices start at $200 per person for an hour-long flight.

Fly-Fishing Anglers have plenty of opportunities for fishing in the streams in the mountains around Park City, either on their own or with local guides. For tips on where they’re biting, as well as equipment and information on guided trips, check with Jans Mountain Outfitters, 1600 Park Ave. ( 435/649-4949; www.jansflyshop.com), or Park City Fly Shop, 2065 Sidewinder Dr., Prospector Square ( 435/645-8382; www.pcflyshop.com). The Canyons has a reservoir stocked with native trout.

Hiking & Mountain Biking With more than 350 miles of trails crisscrossing the mountains around Park City, opportunities abound for hiking and mountain biking. For a short hike with a variety of terrains and good views of both mountains and town, try the 1.5-mile Sweeny Switchbacks Trail, accessible from near the base of the town lift.

The 30-mile Historic Union Pacific Rail Trail State Park hiking and biking path follows the old Union Pacific railroad bed from Park City to Echo Reservoir. It offers wonderful views of meadows, the volcanic crags of Silver Creek Canyon, the Weber River, Echo Reservoir, and the steep walls of Echo Canyon. You might spot deer, elk, moose, and bald eagles along the trail. An end-of-the-trail pickup service is available from Daytrips ( 888/649-8294; www.daytrips.com).

More than 30 miles of dirt roads and single-track trails at Park City Mountain Resort are open to hikers and mountain bikers, who can ride the PayDay chairlift up, and then bike or hike down. Tickets cost $11 to $12 for a single ride, or $18 to $20 for an all-day pass. Deer Valley Resort offers more than 50 miles of panoramic trails for both hikers and bikers, with chairlift access in summer ($12–$20 a ride or $20–$34 a day). As you might expect, the terrain is steep and beautiful. The Canyons also has hiking trails and a bike park, and runs both the gondola and a chairlift during its summer season; tickets are $15 adults, $10 seniors and kids 7 to 12.

For bike rentals ($30–$40 a day), guided rides and hikes (as well as climbs), and even mountain biking clinics, get in touch with White Pine Touring Center, 1790 Bonanza Dr. ( 435/649-8170; www.whitepinetouring.com). For a good description of area trails, pick up a copy of the free Park City Hiking & Biking Trail Map at either visitor center and at sporting-goods shops. The website of the Mountain Trails Foundation (www.mountaintrails.org) is another good resource.

Horseback Riding Guided trail rides are available from several outfitters in the area. Rocky Mountain Recreation operates stables at Park City Mountain Resort, at Deer Valley Resort, and at 2,300-acre Rockin’ R Ranch. It operates daily from late May to late October. Rates start at $61 for adults and $56 for children for a 1-hour ride. Rides with meals and overnight trips are also offered; call for details.

More to See & Do in Park City

Kimball Art Center ★ This highly respected center for visual arts, housed in a historic 1929 building, has three galleries with changing exhibits, both classic and contemporary, that include national and international traveling shows, as well as works by local artists. This nonprofit community art center also sponsors classes, workshops, and seminars throughout the year. Each summer, on the first weekend in August, it produces the Park City Arts Festival, an outdoor exhibit featuring works by about 200 fine artists, and is open daily leading up to and during the event. Allow about 45 minutes.

638 Park Ave., at the bottom of Main St. 435/649-8882. www.kimballartcenter.org. Free admission; donations accepted. Mon–Thurs 10am–5pm; Fri 10am–7pm; Sat noon–7pm; Sun noon–5pm. All bus loops stop here.

Park City Museum Following a major 2-year expansion and renovation, the museum reopened in fall 2009. The original territorial jail downstairs is a must-see—the dark, tiny cells were state of the art in 1886! Featuring plenty of new exhibits, the upstairs is a bit more civilized, displaying a stagecoach, 19th-century mining equipment, vintage photographs, and early ski gear. Allow about 1 1/2 hours.

518 Main St. 435/649-7457. www.parkcityhistory.org. Admission $10 adults, $8 seniors, $5 children 7–17, free for children 6 and under. Mon–Sat 10am–7pm; Sun noon–6pm. Main St. Trolley.

Shopping

Historic Main Street is lined with galleries, boutiques, and a wide variety of shops, with transportation conveniently provided by the Main Street Trolley. You won’t find many bargains here, but prices aren’t too far out of line for a tourist and ski town, and are downright reasonable when compared to places like Aspen and Santa Fe.

No Place Like Home, in Park City Plaza at 1685 Bonanza Dr. ( 435/649-9700), is the place to go for kitchen and home accessories. Choose from glassware, gadgets, gourmet coffee beans, bed and bath items, and lots more. Get reading material of all kinds at Dolly’s Bookstore, 510 Main St. ( 435/649-8062; www.dollysbookstore.com).

Bargain hunters will want to head to the Tanger Factory Outlets, 6699 N. Landmark Dr. ( 435/645-7078; www.tangeroutlet.com). From downtown Park City, take Utah 224 north to I-80, but don’t get on; instead, go west on the south frontage road to the mall. Among the best outlet malls around, this place houses more than 60 stores, including Banana Republic, Carter’s, Gap, Levi’s, Nike, Old Navy, Polo Ralph Lauren, Samsonite, and Tommy Bahama.

Where to Stay

The Park City area offers a wide variety of places to stay, and it’s probably home to the largest portion of the state’s deluxe accommodations. Even some of the most luxurious properties, however, lack air-conditioning, but at this elevation—6,900 feet in Park City and higher in the mountains—it’s seldom needed. For those skiers interested in renting a condo, check out the offerings online at www.parkcitylodging.com, www.resortpropertymanagement.com, and www.utahvacationhomes.com. For central reservations at Deer Valley, call 800/558-3337.

Among the franchise properties in Park City are the Best Western Plus Landmark Inn, 6560 N. Landmark Dr. ( 800/548-8824 or 435/649-7300; www.bwlandmarkinn.com), with ski-season rates for two from $119 to $259, and Hampton Inn and Suites, 6609 N. Landmark Dr. ( 800/426-7866 or 435/645-0900; www.hamptoninn.com), with ski-season rates of $89 to $199 double. You can save some money by staying in Kimball Junction and taking the free shuttle into Park City. Try the Newpark Resort, 1456 Newpark Blvd. ( 877/649-3600 or 435/649-3600; www.newparkresort.com), with winter rates of $200 to $500 for two people, or Holiday Inn Express Hotel & Suites, 1501 W. Ute Blvd. ( 888/465-4329 or 435/658-1600; www.holidayinn.com), with peak rates of $169 to $199 for two.

Listed rates indicate rack rates for peak seasons, excluding special events. Rates are almost always higher—sometimes dramatically so—during ski season, and rates during Christmas week and the Sundance Film Festival can be absurd. The best bargains are in spring and fall. Sales and lodging taxes in Park City total about 10.5%. Pets are not allowed, unless otherwise noted.

A Helping Hand for Room Reservations

Although it’s possible to book reservations directly with individual lodges, many people find it more convenient to go the one-stop-shopping route, making all their arrangements directly with one of the resorts. See the contact information earlier in this chapter under “Skiing the Park City Area Resorts.”

Deer Valley Resort

Goldener Hirsch Inn ★★ This château-style inn combines warm hospitality with European charm reminiscent of the inn’s sister hotel in Salzburg, the Hotel Goldener Hirsch. Austrian antiques dot the common areas and decorate the walls. Guest rooms are elegantly furnished with hand-painted-and-carved Austrian furniture, king-size beds with down comforters, and minibars stocked with snacks and nonalcoholic beverages. Suites boast wood-burning fireplaces and small private balconies. The excellent restaurant is Austrian in decor and features European-inspired fare. In summer, you can dine outdoors on the flower-filled deck.

7570 Royal St. E., Silver Lake Village, Deer Valley (P.O. Box 859), Park City, UT 84060. www.goldenerhirschinn.com. 800/252-3373 or 435/649-7770. Fax 435/649-7901. 20 units. Winter (including continental breakfast) $299–$1,399 double; summer $155–$300 double. AE, MC, V. Closed mid-Apr to mid-June and Oct–Nov. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi (free).

Montage Deer Valley ★★★ Opened in 2010, the Montage Deer Valley (the first outside Southern California) looms above the resort, with a level of luxury that is similarly high. The views are staggering: You can see all the way to Wyoming from many rooms. Interiors are likewise impressive, featuring art of local flora and fauna (including several original Remingtons) and superlative furnishings and decor. The bedding is plush and marshmallow-soft; the bathrooms have soaking tubs and rain shower heads. The facilities are also a cut above, from Utah’s largest spa (35,000 sq. ft.!) to the kid’s art program to the zinc bar in the lounge. There’s an incredible game room with a commercial Wii installation, pool tables, foosball tables, four bowling lanes, and vintage arcade games. This is a true ski-in, ski-out experience: There are three lifts right out the door.

9100 Marsac Ave. (P.O. Box 4680), Park City, UT 84060. www.montagedeervalley.com. 435/604-1300. Fax 435/604-1310. 220 units, including 66 suites and residences. Winter (including full breakfast) $845–$1,410 double, from $2,295 suite/residence suite; mid-Apr to late Nov $345–$600 double, from $695 suite/residence. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; concierge; exercise room; 3 outdoor and 3 indoor Jacuzzis; outdoor heated pool; room service; sauna; spa. In room: TV/DVD, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi ($15 per day).

Stein Eriksen Lodge ★★★ Opened in 1982 under the direction of Stein Eriksen, the Norwegian 1952 Olympic gold medalist, this standout hotel retains both the striking decor and the intimate charm of his original plan. The lobby is most impressive, with a magnificent three-story stone fireplace fronted by an elegant seating area. The main lodge has 13 rooms, with the remaining units in nearby buildings. The connecting sidewalks are heated, and the grounds are beautifully landscaped. Spacious deluxe rooms, each individually decorated, contain one king- or two queen-size beds, plenty of closet space, a whirlpool tub, and tasteful, solid wood furniture; suites have full kitchens. The three large mountain chalet–style town-house suites each have a stone fireplace, full kitchen with service for eight, and private deck. The lodge has two dining venues: the Glitretind Restaurant, serving three meals daily, and the more casual Troll Hallen Lounge. Under the same management is the Chateaux at Silver Lake, a full-service condo property in Silver Lake Village.

Stein Way (P.O. Box 3177), Park City, UT 84060. www.steinlodge.com. 800/453-1302 or 435/649-3700. Fax 435/649-5825. 180 units. Winter (including buffet breakfast) $630–$1,160 double, from $1,395 suite; mid-Apr to late Nov $200–$300 double, from $325 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants (see Glitretind Restaurant review); babysitting; concierge; exercise room; outdoor Jacuzzi; outdoor heated pool; room service; sauna; spa. In room: TV/VCR or DVD, DVD library, fridge, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi (free).

Park City

Chateau Après Lodge For those on a budget, this lodge is a good option close to the slopes—150 yards away, to be exact. It looks like a Swiss Alps–style lodge from the outside—simple but attractive—with a large central fireplace in the lobby. Rooms are basic and clean, each with a queen-size bed or a double and a single, plus a private shower-only bathroom. The dorms have a shared bathroom. The entire facility is nonsmoking.

1299 Norfolk Ave. (P.O. Box 579), Park City, UT 84060. www.chateauapres.com. 800/357-3556 or 435/649-9372. Fax 435/649-5963. 32 units. Winter $110 double; dorm rooms $40 per bed. Rates include continental breakfast. Closed in summer except for groups requiring 8 rooms or more. AE, DISC, MC, V. In room: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Park City ★★★ This is one of the most posh places to hang your hat in the area, if not the entire state. Drawing inspiration from the grand lodges of the national park system, the brain trust behind Hotel Park City spared no expense, from the masculine guest rooms, all with sublime mountain views, to the year-round pool in the central courtyard. Half of the suites are located in the main lodge, with the rest in 10 structures on the Park City Golf Course (the clubhouse is in the hotel and transforms into a cross-country center come winter). The rooms all feature king-size beds, two TVs, kitchenettes, washers and dryers, and Western decor; the bathrooms are superb, with big jetted tubs and separate three-headed showers. The on-site spa is top-rate. The Silver Star lift to Park City Mountain Resort is easily accessible from the hotel.

2001 Park Ave. (P.O. Box 683120), Park City, UT 84068. www.hotelparkcity.com. 435/200-2000. Fax 435/940-5001. 100 suites. Winter $399–$3,000 double; summer $179–$1,500 double. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; concierge; outdoor Jacuzzi; outdoor heated pool; room service; sauna; spa. In room: A/C, TV/DVD player, hair dryer, kitchenette, Wi-Fi (free).

Old Town Guest House ★ This cozy little B&B is perfect for outdoor enthusiasts—innkeeper Deb Lovci is a backcountry ski guide in winter and avid hiker and mountain biker in summer—and it’s affordable to boot. The inn is within easy walking distance of both the Park City Mountain Resort and Main Street. The delightfully homey living room retains its original 1910 fireplace. The decor is country, with pine furniture and hardwood floors throughout, and as with most historic bed-and-breakfasts, each guest room is unique. Treasure Hollow has a queen-size bed and private bathroom with shower. McConky’s Suite, upstairs, contains a queen-size bed in one room and bunk beds in another, a tub, and a shower. Two smaller rooms in back have private bathrooms, but share a shower. Guests can use the outdoor deck and Jacuzzi, not to mention a stock of head lamps, day packs, and water bottles. Lovci also offers regular fitness “camps” focused on biking or skiing.

1011 Empire Ave., Park City, UT 84060. www.oldtownguesthouse.com. 800/290-6423, ext. 3710, or 435/649-2642. 4 units. Winter (including breakfast) $129–$229 double; summer $99–$129 double. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Outdoor Jacuzzi. In room: TV/VCR/DVD player in most rooms, Wi-Fi (free).

Sky Lodge ★★ Opening its doors in December 2007, the Sky Lodge is Park City’s first LEED-certified hotel and features oodles of contemporary style to boot. Located in a historic spot just off Main Street, the hotel exudes outstanding attention to detail in everything from the timbers recycled from a trestle over Salt Lake to the underwater surround sound in the lap pool to the bathroom doors, which are fitted with copper weavings made in Africa to help fund AIDS research. The rooms are large condominium-style units in several different configurations; most feature a deck and a hot tub, and some have a billiards table. The bars and restaurants are a cut above—I especially like Sky Blue, which has a hot tub and fire pits on the deck and sparkling mine tailings under glass on the bar itself.

201 Heber Ave. (P.O. Box 683300), Park City, UT 84068. www.theskylodge.com. 888/876-2525 or 435/658-2500. 33 units, including 22 suites. Winter $325–$1,999 for 1- to 3-bedroom units, $1,500–$3,000 penthouse suite; lower rates spring–fall. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 lounges; concierge; outdoor Jacuzzi; small indoor lap pool. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, kitchen, Wi-Fi (free).

Treasure Mountain Inn ★ Originally built in 1963, the Treasure Mountain Inn was reborn after new ownership took over in 2002, and it has since won accolades as Park City’s most environmentally conscious lodging (thanks to its green supplies, recycling program, and salt-based hot tub). With studios and one- and two-bedroom condominium units decorated in spare contemporary style, the rooms feature flatscreen TVs, iPod docking stations, full kitchens, and a king-size bed or two queens. The courtyard is especially attractive, centered on the aforementioned hot tub and a faux waterfall.

255 Main St. (P.O. Box 1570), Park City, UT 84060. www.treasuremountaininn.com. 800/344-2460 or 435/655-4501. Fax 435/655-4504. 56 units. Winter $145–$515 double; spring–fall $112–$260 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Fitness center; outdoor Jacuzzi. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, DVD library, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi (free).

Washington School House ★★★ Nestled against the Wasatch Mountains, this 1889 limestone schoolhouse turned inn has been reborn as a boutique hotel. The exterior has been faithfully restored to its late-19th-century appearance, but the interior was gutted and reinvented in 2011, with impressive results. Slick but classic rooms are individually decorated with antiques and reproductions, as well as modern American art. Facilities include ski storage and a new heated pool and Jacuzzi.

543 Park Ave. (P.O. Box 536), Park City, UT 84060. www.washingtonschoolhouse.com. 800/824-1672 or 435/649-3800. Fax 435/649-3802. 12 units. Winter $700–$1,850 double; lower rates spring to fall. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Outdoor Jacuzzi; outdoor heated pool. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat

For a smallish town, Park City has a wonderful selection of very good restaurants. Several menu guides are available free at the visitor centers. Two-for-one main courses are often available at Park City restaurants, especially in the off season; check the Park Record for information and coupons. For coffee, baked goods, and Internet access, try Park City Coffee Roaster, 738 Lower Main St. ( 435/649-0051; www.parkcitycoffeeroaster.com). If you’re on a budget, head to either El Chubasco, 1890 Bonanza Dr. ( 435/645-9114; www.elchubascopc.info ), with great Mexican eats beloved by local mountain bikers and ski bums, and one of the best salsa bars this side of the border, or local favorite Davanza’s, 690 Park Ave. ( 435/649-2222; www.davanzas.com), a family-friendly pizzeria with a huge beer collection and posters of 1970s icons like Bob Marley and Farrah Fawcett lining its walls. Another local favorite, Good Karma, 1782 Prospector Ave. ( 435/658-0958; www.goodkarmarestaurants.com), offers Indo-Persian cuisine and American breakfasts.

Cafe Terigo ★ EUROPEAN/CONTINENTAL This upscale eatery is a good choice when you want innovative cuisine in a classy atmosphere. In fine weather, you can eat outdoors; otherwise, dine in the simple yet elegant European-style cafe, which is outfitted with black upholstered booths, white tablecloths, fresh flowers, and wrought-iron chandeliers. The lunch menu offers burgers and a variety of sandwiches, such as a grilled vegetable sandwich composed of sweet onions, zucchini, mushrooms, roasted red peppers, and provolone cheese on homemade focaccia. Dinner brings such main courses as herb-encrusted Utah rainbow trout; beef tenderloin with gorgonzola polenta, shiitake mushrooms, and red chard; and almond-encrusted salmon, served with green beans and a shallot salad. A variety of pastas and pizzas (with toppings such as shrimp and artichoke hearts) are also available, not to mention a delectable bread pudding for dessert. The cafe sells espresso and has full liquor service.

424 Main St. 435/645-9555. www.cafeterigo.com. Main courses $11–$15 lunch, $16–$29 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 5:30–10pm. Closed Sun spring and fall. Main St. Trolley.

The Eating Establishment AMERICAN Probably the oldest continuously operating restaurant on Park City’s historic Main Street (since 1972), the Eating Establishment is casual and comfortable, a solid choice for families or anyone who wants a heaping serving of comfort food at a reasonable price. The dining room is accented with brick and light wood, fireplaces, and scenic photos of Utah. The enclosed patio was recently remodeled in an airy Southwest style. The extensive menu features breakfast until 3:30pm (a variety of omelets, skillet dishes, eggs, Belgian waffles, fruit-filled crepes, and lox and bagels). Lunch choices, served from 11am until closing, include wonderful charbroiled burgers, fish and chips, salads, a variety of sandwiches, and barbecued pork, beef, or chicken. Dinners are served from 5pm, with choices including salads, excellent barbecued baby back ribs, a certified Kansas City Angus strip steak, several pasta selections, and fresh seafood specials. Desserts, such as the mud pie and New York–style cheesecake, are made in-house. Full liquor service is available.

317 Main St. 435/649-8284. www.theeatingestablishment.net. Main courses $7–$14 breakfast and lunch, $9–$23 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 8am–9pm. Closed 3:30–5pm Mon–Thurs spring–fall. Main St. Trolley.

Glitretind Restaurant ★★★ REGIONAL AMERICAN Located in the elegant Stein Eriksen Lodge, this equally stylish restaurant is a top pick for a romantic dinner in the Park City area. The Glitretind serves innovative, impeccably prepared meals in a charming and airy dining room with views of the spectacular Wasatch Mountains. The menu changes with the seasons, and reflects the New American style of Executive Chef Zane Holmquist. Breakfast offerings include French toast, pancakes, a fruit plate, and omelets; for lunch choose a soup, salad, sandwich, or full meal. At lunch and dinner, Stein’s Wild Game Chili, with wild boar, buffalo, and elk, is a stalwart on the ever-changing menu, which usually offers an array of creative preparations of seafood, steaks, Utah lamb, and other game dishes. The restaurant has an excellent wine list and also offers full liquor service.

Stein Eriksen Lodge, Deer Valley. 435/645-6455. www.steinlodge.com. Reservations requested. Main courses $12–$20 breakfast, $14–$22 lunch, $25–$40 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 7–10am and 11:30am–2:30pm; brunch Sun 11am–2:30pm; daily 6–9pm. Bus: Deer Valley Loop.

Grappa Italian Restaurant ★★ ITALIAN At this elegant, award-winning restaurant, everything is made from scratch, using the freshest herbs and vegetables available—preparing the tomato sauce alone requires cases of Roma tomatoes each day. In a century-old building at the top of Main Street, Grappa’s feels like a Tuscan farmhouse. The restaurant has three floors, with a small patio on the ground floor and a larger second-floor deck with a delightful view of historic Main Street and the surrounding mountains. Baskets of fresh fruit and vegetables decorate the dining area. The menu changes frequently, but popular dishes include a terrific rib-eye, horseradish-crusted salmon, and numerous pasta dishes. The meats, such as the osso buco, are seasoned in the style of southern French and Italian cooking, then grilled or rotisseried over a wood-burning flame. Aside from the choices on the excellent wine list, full liquor service is also available.

151 Main St. 435/645-0636. www.grapparestaurant.com. Reservations required. Main courses $25–$40. AE, DISC, MC, V. Winter daily 5–10pm; summer Thurs–Mon 5–10pm. May close several weeks in Nov and Apr. Main St. Trolley.

High West Distillery ★★ NEW AMERICAN This is Utah’s first new distillery since the Church of Latter-day Saints shuttered a few church-owned stills a century ago. It’s also a heck of a place to get a bite to eat. With a rollicking barroom and more refined dining areas in an attached historic house, the space is a converted livery (1907) that served as a garage for most of the 20th century. Reimagined as an eatery that makes whiskey and vodka, the food here is as creative as any fare you’ll find in the Rockies, from gourmet mac and cheese, bacon-wrapped shrimp, and bourbon-bacon-cashew-caramel popcorn to bison rib-eyes and Idaho elk. Distillery tours are free; tastings are $18. Specialty cocktails are excellent; the Dead Man’s Boots, with house rye, tequila, fresh lime, and ginger beer, is a revelation.

703 Park Ave. 435/649-8300. www.highwest.com. Reservations recommended in winter. Small plates $8–$13, large plates $14–$55. AE, DISC, MC, V. Winter daily 2–10pm; shorter hours rest of year.

Jean Louis ★ CONTEMPORARY/ECLECTIC After guiding the restaurant at the Goldener Hirsch Inn at Deer Valley, Jean Louis Montecot opened his own place in downtown Park City in 2006, and the results are electrifying. Centered on an amber onyx bar, the casual, contemporary space is dimly lit and attractive to the barhopping crowd, but it prides itself on providing a fine-dining experience at the same time. The diverse menu ranges from fish tacos to rack of New Zealand lamb. With side dishes of such comfort foods as onion rings and corn mashed potatoes, the results are reliably dazzling. Full liquor service is available.

136 Heber Ave. 435/200-0260. www.jeanlouisrestaurant.com. Main courses $14–$20. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5–11pm (10pm in summer/off season). Bar open later.

Purple Sage ★★ AMERICAN Serving what they call “American Western cuisine,” this upscale dinner restaurant is owned and operated by the same people who do such a great job at nearby Cafe Terigo. The atmosphere could be described as “refined casual Western,” and the menu offers innovative and sometimes fascinating variations on American favorites. The grilled shrimp in chipotle-and-leek sauce, served on golden polenta cakes, and fried chicken with mashers and bacon-pepper gravy are highly recommended. The restaurant offers full liquor service.

434 Main St. 435/655-9505. www.purplesageparkcity.com. Main courses $18–$29 dinner. AE, MC, V. Daily 5:30–10pm. Closed Sun in spring and fall. Main St. Trolley.

350 Main ★★ CONTEMPORARY GLOBAL A rich, romantic setting for an excellent meal, 350 Main is one of Park City’s most reliable eateries. That’s not to say it isn’t creative—Chef Michael LeClerc’s preparations are adventurous and bold, dabbling in French and Asian traditions while coming up with distinct and bold flavors. He utilizes primarily local, organic, and antioxidant-rich ingredients; many items on the menu also list the caloric content. Start your meal with the Tower of Ahi, one of the most strikingly delicate presentations encountered anywhere; the grilled lentil cakes are also recommended. The main courses run the gamut from black-pepper-crusted venison medallions to the Ono-Ono (Pacific ono prepared two ways: grilled or wasabi-seared). For dessert, the rich mocha pot au crème tantalizes the taste buds—the creation is topped with a meringue born of the improbable marriage of chipotle and cinnamon. Full liquor service (including a wine list beloved by Wine Spectator) is available.

350 Main St. 435/649-3140. www.350main.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $23–$38. AE, DISC, MC, V. Dec–Apr 5:30–10pm; May–Nov Wed–Sun 5:30–10pm. Main St. Trolley.

Wahso—An Asian Grill ★ ASIAN This distinctively elegant restaurant boasts an Art Deco and Victorian interior furnished with authentic Asian screens, an ebony fireplace, and carvings and pictures from around the world. The food is equally unique, an amalgamation of traditional Asian ingredients with French cooking style, which gives rise to deliciously light and healthy offerings. Entrees change frequently, but might include specialties such as Szechuan-style grilled filet mignon, pan-seared pork with Utah Bing cherries or sweet corn, and miso-glazed Alaskan cod. Be sure to save room for the dessert specialty—crème brûlée in a coconut shell. Premium sake, imported beer, liquor, and an extensive wine list are available.

577 Main St. 435/615-0300. www.wahso.com. Main courses $29–$38. AE, DISC, MC, V. Winter daily 5–10pm; spring–fall Sun–Thurs 6–9pm, Fri–Sat 6–10pm. Main St. Trolley.

Wasatch Brew Pub ★ AMERICAN Views of the brewing area and Main Street dominate the scene in this popular brewpub, which courts controversy with such beers as Polygamy Porter (tag line: “Why have just one?”). Beyond the liquid refreshments, you can get well-prepared pub grub for lunch, including fish and chips, burgers, pulled pork sliders, various pizzas, and a mean pastrami Reuben melt. The dinner menu offers many of the same lunch items but adds some more adventurous selections, such as fresh Idaho trout with a hazelnut-caper brown butter sauce, Niman Ranch pot roast, and shrimp and andouille sausage jambalaya.

250 Main St. 435/649-0900. www.wasatchbeers.com. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $8–$13 lunch, $10–$18 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–10pm; kitchen closes at 9:30pm Sun–Thurs spring–fall. Bar open later. Main St. Trolley.

Zoom ★★ CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN Robert Redford owns this classic Park City joint, complete with rough-hewn floors, rustic antique chandeliers, and gorgeous black-and-white photos of Hollywood luminaries from the Sundance Film Festival over the years. The menu offers something for all pocketbooks, from salads and delicious burgers to pasta, seafood, and ribs. The offerings change seasonally—you might find pumpkinseed-crusted trout or buffalo filet mignon—but the Double R Ranch ribs are the true standby, served with poppy-seed slaw and corn bread. Full liquor service is available.

660 Main St. 435/649-9108. www.zoomparkcity.com. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $7–$30 lunch, $11–$36 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–9pm. Main St. Trolley.

Movies, Music & More in the Mountains: Sundance & the Performing Arts

For 10 days every January, the Hollywood glitterati and the paparazzi who follow them descend on Park City in droves for the star-studded Sundance Film Festival ★★★ ( 435/776-7878; www.sundance.org/festival). The slate includes cutting-edge indies as well as blockbuster premieres, and the event has grown into the top festival of its kind in the country; there are screenings in Park City as well as Sundance Resort, Kimball Junction, and Salt Lake City. (It’s also a great time to hit the slopes, as everyone else is jammed like sardines into the theaters!) Unlike the film festival in Cannes, getting tickets is neither particularly difficult nor prohibitively exclusive, though it does require advance planning. Tickets go on sale (and sell out) during a slim window of time at the end of October, although a handful of tickets are made available the day of a screening, and more comprehensive packages go on sale in September. Go online or call the film festival for details.

Throughout the summer, concerts are presented at a variety of venues. Past Sundance films are also screened for free in City Park on summer Thursday nights. The Park City Film Series (www.parkcityfilmseries.com) screens independent movies at the Park City Library for $6 to $12; there are also free screenings.

The Deer Valley Music Festival ★★ ( 801/533-66833; www.deervalleymusicfestival.org) takes place in July and August. The program includes classical masterpieces like Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture, plus jazz and popular works by composers such as Gilbert and Sullivan and John Philip Sousa. There are also concerts by pop acts of all stripes. The stage faces the mountainside; bring a chair or blanket and relax under the stars. Call the box office for schedule and ticket information.

The Park City & SLC International Music Festival ( 435/649-5309; www.pcmusicfestival.com) presents classical performances in the summer and fall. Classical musicians from around the world attend, and programs feature soloists, chamber music, and full orchestras.

The 1,300-seat Eccles Center for the Performing Arts, 1750 Kearns Blvd., and the outdoor Snow Park Amphitheatre at Deer Valley ( 435/655-3114; www.ecclescenter.org), present a wide variety of top national performing arts companies. Recent productions and concerts have included Willie Nelson, Joss Stone, and Trisha Yearwood.

The Historic Egyptian Theatre, 328 Main St. ( 435/649-9371; www.egyptiantheatrecompany.org), was built in 1926 in the popular Egyptian Revival style. Originally used for vaudeville and silent films, this was the first theater in Park City to offer the “new talking pictures.” Today, the Egyptian is the home of the Egyptian Theatre Company, which presents a variety of dramas, comedies, musicals, and other productions throughout the year.

Park City After Dark: The Club Scene

Known as Utah’s “Sin City,” Park City probably has the best nightlife in the state. And with the 2009 normalization of liquor laws, you no longer have to “join a private club” (more like paying a cover charge) to drink legally in bars and nightclubs. The following are busiest during ski season, and generally have fewer nights of live music at other times.

The Spur, 350 1/2 Main St. ( 435/615-1618; www.thespurbarandgrill.com), is a contemporary Western joint that has regular live music. Cisero’s, downstairs at 306 Main St. ( 435/649-6800; www.ciseros.com), with a large dance floor, hosts good bands. O’Shucks, 427 Main St. ( 435/645-3999), is one of those low-key places where beers are available in 32-ounce schooners and you can chuck your peanut shells on the floor. The burgers are pretty good, too. “Helping people forget their name since 1903,” No Name Saloon, 447 Main St. ( 435/649-6667; www.nonamesaloon.net), is another fun place to drink, an old redbrick with lots of TVs, a constant crowd, and a nice rooftop patio. More Hollywood than Utah, Sky Blue ( 435/658-2500) at the Sky Lodge is a great place to people-watch—or be seen.

Heber Valley Historic Railroad, Strawberry Reservoir & Some Great State Parks

The southern Wasatch Front isn’t just about skiing. The wonderful lakes and parks near Park City are still some of Utah’s best-kept secrets, but they’re getting more and more popular by the year. To the northeast is Rockport State Park, a man-made lake that attracts watersports enthusiasts, from swimmers to ice-fishermen, year-round. Not far from Park City is Jordanelle State Park, which is a great boating lake, and Wasatch Mountain State Park, which is Utah’s second-largest state park and a major golf destination. Heading southeast from Park City, you’ll reach Heber City, whose main claim to fame is its historic steam train. A bit farther afield along U.S. 40 is pristine Strawberry Reservoir, a favorite water playground.

Heber Valley Railroad

Those who love old trains, who want to see firsthand some of the history of the American West, or who simply enjoy beautiful scenery, should go for a ride on the Heber Valley Railroad ★★. This 100-year-old excursion train provides an exciting step back into the past, while also offering a fun ride through a delightful diversity of landscapes. Excursions ranging from 1 1/2 to 3 hours are offered on both steam and vintage diesel trains, and a number of special-event trips are scheduled, including murder mysteries, sunset excursions, and the “Polar Express” Christmas trip. Train cars have restrooms, snack bars, and souvenir shops.

The views along the shores of Deer Creek Lake and through beautiful Provo Canyon are wonderful at any time, but fall is one of the prettiest seasons to ride the train, when the mountainsides are decorated with the rich hues of changing leaves.

The train depot is in Heber City, 20 miles south of Park City via Utah 248 and U.S. 40. Round-trip tickets cost $24 to $30 for adults, $16 to $20 for children 3 to 12, and $19 to $25 for seniors 60 and older. Rates are higher for special events and meal and entertainment excursions; one-way tickets are also available (call for rates). There are also combination rafting and horseback riding train expeditions ($89) and a trip that ends with a zipline ride ($99). The ticket office is open daily from 9am to 5pm. For information, contact Heber Valley Railroad, 450 S. 600 West, Heber City ( 800/888-8499, 435/654-5601, or 801/581-9980 from Salt Lake City; www.hebervalleyrailroad.org).

Rockport State Park

Rockport, one of the Utah State Park system’s man-made lakes, is a great destination offering a full range of outdoor activities, from windsurfing to wildlife-watching. In the winter, add ice-fishing and cross-country skiing. Facilities at the half-mile-wide, 3-mile-long lake include a marina, a boat ramp and courtesy docks, a picnic area, and camping spots in a variety of settings. The Wanship Dam, at the north end of the lake, is an important water-storage and flood-control dam on the Weber River, which has its headwaters high in the Uinta Mountains.

Essentials

Getting There From Park City, head east on I-80 for about 11 miles to exit 156, then go 5 miles south on Utah 32 along the western bank of Rockport Lake to the access road. The park entrance is at the lake’s southern tip. Turn east to the park entrance, and then follow the road around to the north along the eastern bank.

Information, Fees & Regulations Contact Rockport State Park, 9040 N. Utah 302, Peoa, UT 84061-9702 ( 435/336-2241; www.stateparks.utah.gov). Open year-round, the park has a day-use fee of $9 per vehicle. Pets are allowed, but must be confined or leashed.

Outdoor Pursuits

Cross-Country Skiing Groomed cross-country ski trails run through the open sagebrush, and these offer a better chance of seeing wildlife than the more forested areas in the surrounding national forest.

Hiking & Wildlife-Watching A 4-mile round-trip hike takes off from Juniper Campground. This easy, relatively flat walk among juniper and sagebrush offers an opportunity to glimpse mule deer, yellow-belly marmots, badgers, raccoons, weasels, skunks, and ground squirrels. Less visible are elk, moose, coyotes, bobcats, and cougars. Birds abound, and sometimes you can spot Western grebes, Canada geese, whistling swans, great blue herons, and golden and bald eagles. More frequently seen are ducks, red-tailed hawks, magpies, scrub jays, and hummingbirds.

Water Activities The day-use area, located about 3 1/2 miles north of the park entrance, offers the best swimming. The lake is also popular for boating, windsurfing, water-skiing, sailing, kayaking, and fishing. Both the lake and river are home to rainbow and brown trout, yellow perch, and smallmouth bass. Unfortunately, there are no equipment outfitters nearby.

Camping

A number of RV and tent campsites are located in five areas around the lake. The first campground is to the right of the access road, along the Weber River rather than the lake. Sites are shady and provide easy access to a trail along the river, handy for fishermen. The remainder of the sites lies between the road and the lake, along its eastern bank, and most have vault toilets only. One campground, Juniper, has sites with water and electric hookups, a dump station, and modern restrooms. Sites cost $10 to $20; yurts are $60. The park generally fills on weekends, but reservations can be made by calling 800/322-3770, or through the state parks website (www.stateparks.utah.gov).

Jordanelle State Park ★★

Two recreation areas provide access to Jordanelle Reservoir in the beautiful Wasatch Mountains. Both areas are great for boating, fishing, picnicking, and camping. The reservoir is shaped rather like a boomerang, with the dam at the elbow. The Perimeter Trail connects the highly developed Hailstone Recreation Site to the more primitive Rock Cliff Recreation Site. Hailstone is on the terraced peninsula poking into the upper arm just above the dam; Rock Cliff is at the southeastern tip of the lower arm of the reservoir. Hailstone’s camping and picnicking areas face the widest part of the reservoir, which is perfect for speedboats, water-skiing, and personal watercraft. The narrow arm reaching down to Rock Cliff is designated for low-speed water use. Trails—27 miles of them—circle the reservoir and connect to other area trails. They’re open to hikers, mountain bikers, horseback riders, and cross-country skiers.

Essentials

Getting There For Hailstone, from Park City, head east on Kearns Boulevard (Utah 248) for about 3 3/4 miles; at U.S. 40, go southeast 4 miles to exit 8 and follow the entrance road east into Hailstone. From Heber City, take U.S. 40 northwest about 6 miles.

For Rock Cliff, from Park City, continue southeast on U.S. 40 past Hailstone for about 2 miles to Utah 32, then east about 6 miles to the entrance. From Heber City, follow U.S. 40 northwest for about 4 miles, then head east onto Utah 32 for about 6 miles to the entrance.

Information, Fees & Regulations Contact Jordanelle State Park, Utah 319, No. 515, Box 4, Heber City, UT 84032 ( 435/649-9540 for Hailstone or 435/782-3030 for Rock Cliff; www.stateparks.utah.gov). Stop at the visitor center at Hailstone or the Nature Center at Rock Cliff, a nature-oriented visitor center, for information and trail maps. The exhibit room in the visitor center at Hailstone presents an overview of human history in the area.

The park is open year-round at Hailstone, and May through September at Rock Cliff. Day-use hours in summer are 7am to 10pm; from October through March, they are 8am to 5pm. The visitor centers are open April through September from 9am to 6pm. The day-use fee is $10 per vehicle (or $7 for Rock Cliff only).

In order to protect the abundance of wildlife, particularly birds, pets are not allowed at Rock Cliff. They’re welcome at Hailstone, but must be confined or leashed. Bicycling is permitted on established public roads, in parking areas, and on the Perimeter Trail.

Hailstone Recreation Site

At Hailstone are three camping areas and a group pavilion, along with a swimming beach and a picnic area available for day use. The 76-slip marina offers camping, picnicking supplies, boat rentals, a small restaurant, an amphitheater, boat ramps, a wheelchair-accessible fishing deck, and a fish-cleaning station.

Outdoor Pursuits A concessionaire at Jordanelle Marina ( 435/655-9919; www.jordanellemarina.com) rents ski boats, jet skis, and fishing boats.

Camping Hailstone’s three camping areas have walk-in tent sites, RV/tent sites without hookups, and RV sites with water and electric hookups. Facilities include modern restrooms, showers, a small coin-op laundry, and a playground. Cost is $16 to $20. For reservations, call 800/322-3770, or log on to the Utah State Parks’ website (www.stateparks.utah.gov).

Rock Cliff Recreation Site

Rock Cliff contains three walk-in camping areas; picnic tables; the Nature Center, which offers maps, environmental programs, and exhibits on the various habitats of the area and how man’s activities impact them; and the Jordanelle Discovery Trail, a boardwalk interpretive trail that winds through the Provo River riparian terrain.

Birding Rock Cliff offers great opportunities for birding ★, with more than 160 species either living here or passing through, and eagles and other raptors nesting in the area. Situated as it is among numerous riparian wetlands, Rock Cliff is designed to protect these sensitive habitats. Trails and boardwalks traverse the area, and bridges cross the waterways at four points, enabling you to get quite close to a variety of wetland life without inadvertently doing any harm to their habitats.

Camping The recreation area has three walk-in campgrounds with a total of 50 sites and two modern restrooms with showers. These sites are more nature-oriented than those at Hailstone and are scattered over 100 acres, providing great privacy. Cost is $16. The site doesn’t have any areas for RVs. For reservations, call 800/322-3770, or log on to the Utah State Parks’ website, www.stateparks.utah.gov.

Wasatch Mountain State Park

The second-largest of Utah’s state parks (after Antelope Island), at 21,592 acres, Wasatch Mountain State Park is also Utah’s most developed state park, and among its most popular. This year-round destination is well maintained, well serviced, and easy to enjoy, and it just keeps getting better. This is a terrific golf and camping destination, and trails are continually being expanded to meet the demands of hikers and mountain bikers. In winter, a network of groomed cross-country skiing and snowmobiling trails lead from the park into the surrounding forest, and both cross-country-ski and snowmobile rentals are available. Wasatch Mountain’s rangers offer a variety of instructive and interpretive programs. Fall is the best time to visit: The incomparable juxtaposition of rich reds, ochers, and deep evergreens will exceed your expectations.

Essentials

Getting There It’s about 5 1/2 miles from Heber City to the park: From downtown, turn west on Utah 113 (100 South) to Midway; following signs for the state park, jog north on 200 West, then west on 200 North, and finally north again on Homestead Drive. The visitor center is located on Homestead Drive (where it becomes Snake Creek Rd.), in the park.

Information/Visitor Center For advance information, contact Wasatch Mountain State Park, P.O. Box 10, Midway, UT 84049-0010 ( 435/654-1791; www.stateparks.utah.gov). The visitor center, on Homestead Drive (where it becomes Snake Creek Rd.), also serves as a lounge for golfers. It’s open daily from 8am to 5pm and includes a large mountain-lodge-style room with comfortable seating. Rangers are on hand to discuss park activities and provide trail maps and other information.

Fees & Regulations The day-use fee is $5 per vehicle. Pets are welcome in the park, but must be confined or leashed.

Ranger Programs Interpretive programs take place most Friday and Saturday summer nights at the amphitheater, and a junior ranger program is offered Saturday mornings. The stocked pond adjacent to the visitor center provides fishing fun for children 15 and under in summer; call for details.

Outdoor Pursuits

Cross-Country Skiing A 7 1/2-mile Nordic ski track, with both diagonal stride and skating lanes, is laid out on the golf course. Neither dogs nor snowmobiles are allowed on the track, which is open from 8am to 5pm. At the southern end of the park, Soldier Hollow ( 435/654-2002; www.soldierhollow.com) was the 2002 Olympics site for biathlon and cross-country-skiing competitions, and is available for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, tubing, and other nonmotorized winter sports; in summer, mountain biking and horseback riding are popular. Day passes are $18 for adults and $9 for kids 7 to 17. Cross-country skis are available for rent at the golf course pro shop.

Golf With the USGA-sanctioned 36-hole, par-143 Lake and Mountain courses, golfing is the most popular pastime here. Ten lakes are scattered throughout the tree-lined fairways, and the views of the lovely Heber Valley are grand. Another 36 holes, at the Soldier Hollow Golf Course at the southern end of the park, opened in summer 2004. Facilities include a full-service pro shop, driving range, practice greens, and a cafe. Fees for adults are $15 for 9 holes, $29 for 18 holes. For juniors and seniors, the fees for 18 holes are $22 and $24, respectively, and $29 on weekends. Carts are available for an additional $13. Tee times may be reserved ( 435/654-0532) a week in advance.

Hiking & Wildlife-Watching Pine Creek Nature Trail is just over a mile in length and encompasses three smaller loops. Many songbirds make their homes in the trees along the trail, so watch for Steller’s jays, chickadees, wrens, robins, and Western tanagers. You might also see the tracks of mule deer along the creek, where they come to forage. From the large parking area in Pine Creek campground, follow the half-mile trail to the Pine Creek trail head, which lies just north of the Oak Hollow loop. The trail begins at an elevation of 6,100 feet and climbs 220 feet, crossing Pine Creek four times and traversing several boulder ridges. The trail guide describes some of the plants you’ll see on this hike. Don’t attempt the trail after a rain, as it becomes quite muddy and slick. No bikes or motorized vehicles are allowed. Be sure to take water, a sun hat, and binoculars. Literature describing the plant and animal life of the park is available at the camp manager’s office near the entrance to the campground and at the visitor center.

Mountain Biking An 18-mile loop affords great fun for mountain bikes. The road leaves the visitor center and heads west, winding through magnificent wooded country and offering occasional breathtaking views of the valley.

Snowmobiling The park’s 90 miles of groomed trails, very popular among snowmobilers, take you into Pine Creek, Snake Creek, and American Fork canyons. Warming stations are located at the clubhouse and visitor center.

Camping

Four camping loops in the Pine Creek Campground provide a total of 139 sites, including about 80 that are off-limits to tenters. All have modern restrooms, and all except Little Deer Creek, the smallest loop, have showers. Some sites are nestled among trees and are quite shady; others are more open. All except Little Deer Creek have paved parking pads, water, electricity, picnic tables, and barbecue grills; some also have sewer hookups. A dump station is located near the entrance to the campground. Camping fees are $13 at Little Deer Creek and $20 to $25 in the other three loops. Reservations are advised and can be made by calling 800/322-3770, or through the state parks website (www.stateparks.utah.gov).

Strawberry Reservoir ★★

Located along U.S. 40 in the eastern portion of the Uinta National Forest, the jewel-like Strawberry Reservoir is a terrific water playground offering amazing fishing, as well as boating, hiking, and mountain biking. It’s also great for cross-country skiing, ice-fishing, and snowmobiling in winter.

Utah’s premier trout fishery—indeed, one of the premier trout fisheries in the West—Strawberry Reservoir is home to huge cutthroat and rainbow trout and kokanee salmon, so it’s no surprise that fishing is the number-one draw. Fishing boats with outboard motors are available at Strawberry Bay Marina ( 435/548-2261; www.strawberrybay.com); call for current rates.

Strawberry Reservoir has four marinas, with the largest at Strawberry Bay. This is the only one that provides year-round services, including a restaurant and lodging at Strawberry Bay Lodge ( 435/548-2500; www.strawberrybay.com), with rooms for $65 for one full-size bed to $220 for a suite with four queens; the others offer limited services.

Campgrounds are located at each of the four marinas on the reservoir. Sites in the Strawberry Bay campgrounds have hookups; Soldier Creek, Aspen Grove, and Renegade do not. The fee is $17 per vehicle. Boat ramps and fish-cleaning facilities are located adjacent to each campground. Reservations can be made for a limited number of designated campsites in summer by contacting the National Recreation Reservation Service ( 877/444-6777; www.recreation.gov).

To get to Strawberry Reservoir from Heber City, drive 22 miles southeast on U.S. 40 and turn south onto the access road. After about a half-mile, you’ll come to the USFS visitor center for Strawberry Reservoir.

For information, contact the Heber-Kamas Ranger District, 2460 S. U.S. 40, P.O. Box 190, Heber City, UT 84032 ( 435/654-0470; www.fs.fed.us/r4/uwc), or stop by the Strawberry Visitor Center ( 435/548-2321). Day use is free in some parts of the complex, but there’s a $5 fee in most areas.

Where to Stay & Eat

Heber City has a number of motels and inns, including Holiday Inn Express, 1268 S. Main St. ( 435/654-9990; www.hiexpress.com), with rates from $89 to $129 for two people. The Swiss-themed Zermatt Resort & Spa, 784 W. Resort Dr., Midway ( 866/643-2015; www.zermattresort.com), targets the convention crowd but has terrific facilities for weekend visitors. Rates start around $169 for a double room and go north of $1,000 a night for three-bedroom suites. The Homestead Resort, 700 N. Homestead Dr., Midway ( 888/327-7220; www.homesteadresort.com), has a wide variety of options (double rooms are typically $129–$199 and suites, condos, and cottages are $250 and up) in myriad buildings on a golf course, as well as the 55-foot volcanic Homestead Crater, its interior developed for soaking, diving, or snorkeling in the 90°F (32°C) water.

In downtown Midway, the Café Galleria, 101 W. Main St. ( 435/657-2002; www.cafegalleriapizza.com), serves wood-fired pizza, bagel sandwiches, and salads. Home to a terrific model railway, the Dairy Keen, 199 S. Main St., Heber City ( 435/654-5336), is a good bet for families, focusing on juicy burgers and thick milkshakes.

Blue Boar Inn ★★★ Winner of the prestigious Utah’s “Best of State” award in the B&B category every year it’s been given, the Blue Boar Inn is tucked into an upscale neighborhood under the beautiful mountain vista of Wasatch Mountain State Park. Owned by Adobe Systems founder John Warnock, this is a special property, with a dozen attractive and plush guest rooms named for poets and authors. All of the rooms have their own unique charms, from the elephant-embroidered pillows in the Rudyard Kipling room to the leather sleigh bed in the Charles Dickens to the rugged motif in the Robert Frost; the William Shakespeare room is very European with a rococo hand-carved king-size bed from Italy. Each room has a fireplace and a jetted tub. Named for a watering hole in Robin Hood lore, the Blue Boar Inn is also home to one of the region’s best restaurants, with contemporary chef Eric May’s Continental menu heavy on fresh seafood and a superlative 3,000-bottle wine cellar. Main courses are typically $30 to $40. Through the entire property, every detail, from the fascinating antiques (including 600-year-old crossbows) to the impeccable landscaping, hits the mark.

1235 Warm Springs Rd., Midway, UT 84049. www.theblueboarinn.com. 888/654-1400 or 435/654-1400. Fax 435/654-6459. 12 units. $175–$295 double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: A/C, TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Sundance Resort

14 miles NE of Provo, 50 miles SE of Salt Lake City

Situated in beautiful Provo Canyon, at the base of 12,000-foot Mt. Timpanogos, Sundance is a year-round resort that emphasizes its arts programs as much as its skiing and outdoor activities. That should come as no surprise—it’s owned by actor/director Robert Redford, who bought the property in 1969 and named it after his character in the classic film Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. You might recognize the area: Redford and director Sydney Pollack set their 1972 film Jeremiah Johnson here.

The goal for Sundance was to create a place where the outdoors and the arts could come together in a truly unique mountain community, and it seems to be a success. The rustic yet elegant, environmentally friendly retreat is a full-service ski resort in winter. During the summer, you can explore great hiking trails and participate in other warm-weather outdoor activities.

Essentials

Getting There Sundance is less than an hour’s drive from Salt Lake City via I-15. From Park City, take U.S. 189 south to Sundance. From Provo, take I-15 to exit 272, go east on Utah 52 for 5 1/2 miles, turn north on U.S. 189 up Provo Canyon for 7 miles, and turn north on Utah 92 for about 2 miles to Sundance. In winter, the road beyond Sundance is often closed by snow.

A van shuttle service connects Sundance with both Salt Lake International Airport and Provo Airport. Call Sundance Resort (see below) for information and to arrange for pickup.

Visitor Information For information on all facilities and activities, plus lodging reservations, contact Sundance Resort, R.R. 3, Box A-1, Sundance, UT 84604 ( 800/892-1600 or 801/225-4100; www.sundanceresort.com).

So You Wanna Be in Pictures: The Sundance Film Festival

Forget Cannes; forget Hollywood. If you want to be (or at least be up on) the next art-house cinema sensation, go to Utah.

Tired of waiting for the next Great American Novel, many people have traded their reading glasses for tubs of popcorn, and are packing the movie houses to catch the latest work of the new creative hero: the American independent filmmaker. These next Tarantinos have to start somewhere—and that somewhere is, more often than not, the Sundance Film Festival.

For more than 20 years, the hottest independent films have been discovered at this 10-day January event, hosted by Robert Redford’s Sundance Institute. The festival doesn’t actually take place at Sundance; it’s held 30 miles away, in Park City, covered earlier in this chapter. There are screenings here during the festival, however, as well as lodging packages and shuttles that take guests back and forth.

The festival has seen the rise to glory of many pictures, including sex, lies, and videotape; Reservoir Dogs; Slacker; Like Water for Chocolate; Hoop Dreams; The Station Agent; The Aristocrats; and Napoleon Dynamite—and that’s just the short list.

Hosting the nation’s premier annual film festival is only part of the Sundance Institute’s role in the world of American cinema. Since Robert Redford founded the Institute, it has brought some of the finest and most well-respected directors, actors, and producers to Utah to serve as advisors while students rehearse, shoot, and edit their works.

Admission to the festival—as a filmmaker or as an audience member—is nonexclusive; that means you and I can rub shoulders with the rich and famous and up-and-coming. To receive a free guide, or to learn how to purchase tickets, contact the Sundance Institute ( 435/658-3456 or 435/776-7878; www.sundance.or).

Skiing Sundance

Sundance is known for its quiet, intimate setting and lack of lift lines. It offers runs for all levels—some quite challenging—including several delightfully long cruising trails for novices. The area is gaining a reputation as a good place to learn to ski or snowboard. The two levels of skiing are pretty well separated from each other: The beginner areas and some of the intermediate terrain are on the front mountain, whereas the prime blue runs and all of the expert slopes are on the back mountain. The expert crowd will be pleased with the steep glades, precipitous bump runs (due to the general lack of traffic, the mountain never really bumps up too high, though), and untracked snow on the back mountain, where you’ll have to work at it to run into another skier.

The terrain is rated 20% beginner, 40% intermediate, and 40% advanced, with a total of 41 runs over 450 skiable acres. One quad and two triple chairlifts, plus a handle tow, serve the mountain, which has a vertical drop of 2,150 feet, from a base elevation of 6,100 feet to the top at 8,250 feet. Sundance is usually open from mid-December to early April, and has state-of-the-art snow-making equipment on the entire front mountain. Lifts operate daily from 9am to 4:30pm and on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday nights from 4:30 to 9pm.

Bearclaw’s Cabin, the only mountaintop day lodge in Utah, offers snacks and hot drinks, as well as stupendous views. Creekside day lodge, at the base of the ski area, serves excellent quick lunches during ski season. Equipment rental and sales are available.

Lift Tickets Adult all-day lift tickets cost $49, children 6 to 12 are $27, 5 and under ski free, and seniors 65 and over pay $15. Night skiing is $25 for adults and $18 for children. If you’re staying at the resort, the lift ticket is included in your room rate.

Lessons & Programs The ski school ( 801/225-4140) offers private and group lessons daily, as well as specialized workshops. Three-hour private lessons start at $240; group lessons start at $67 for 2 hours.

Sundance Kids ski school offers several programs, including group lessons and all-day programs that include supervision, lunch, and instruction. The resort has no day-care facility.

Cross-Country Skiing & Snowshoeing Sundance’s excellent Cross Country Center ★★★ is 1 1/2 miles north of the main Sundance entrance. It has about 21 miles of groomed Nordic and snowshoe trails. Classic, skating, and telemark rentals and lessons are available. Trail passes for adults cost $16 for a full day, or $12 after 2pm. Children 12 and under and seniors 65 and over ski free.

Warm-Weather Fun

An abundance of warm-weather activities and spectacular scenery make Sundance just as popular a destination in the summer as during the winter. A quad ski lift operates in warm weather (usually from late May through late Oct), carrying hikers and bikers to upper trails, and offering scenic rides to anyone. Lift rides cost $11, $9 for kids 6 to 12, $8 for seniors 65 and older, and are free for children 5 and under accompanied by an adult.

Fly-Fishing The Provo River provides great fly-fishing just 10 minutes away for rainbow, cutthroat, and German brown trout. Licenses and information are available at the Sundance General Store. Sundance offers guided fishing trips, including equipment rentals. Rates start at $160 for group, $240 for private, half-day fly-fishing trips.

Hiking & Mountain Biking Sundance is home to a terrific network of close to a dozen trails, some of which connect to the Uinta National Forest, 88 W. 100 North, Provo ( 801/342-5100; http://fs.usda.gov/uwcnf). The resort’s trails range from hour-long nature walks to all-day affairs, and include three routes to the summit of Mt. Timpanogos.

The Sundance Nature Trail, a 1- to 1 1/2-hour round-trip hike, winds through groves of spruce, oak, and maple and across alpine meadows before reaching a cascading waterfall. The Great Western Trail, one of the Wasatch Front’s most spectacular trails, climbs nearly 4,000 feet to some amazing scenic vistas. It starts at the base of Aspen Grove, winds to the crest of North Fork and American Fork canyons, and ends at the top of Alta ski area. This is an 8- to 10-hour round-trip hike.

Mountain bikers will find the mountain trails at Sundance fun and challenging. Bikers can minimize some of the work by taking their bikes up the lift and pedaling down. The mountain biker’s trail-use fee is $12, which includes one lift ride; a full-day pass, including unlimited use of the lift, costs $20.

Contact the resort for a comprehensive trail guide.

Horseback Riding The Sundance Stables offer guided mountain rides of 1 hour and up, starting at $59 per person. Call the main number at Sundance for information.

Shopping

The General Store ( 801/223-4250) in the Sundance Resort was the inspiration for the Sundance Catalog; it may have come to you in the mail at some time or another. If so, you may recognize the American Indian art and jewelry, local crafts, and high-end Southwest-style clothing and outdoor wear that line the shelves. You can also browse through hiking and fishing apparel and gear (including licenses and rentals) in warm weather, ski accessories in winter, and fresh-baked goodies year-round. At Sundance Mountain Outfitters ( 801/223-4121), you can also browse through hiking and fishing apparel and gear (including licenses and rentals) in warm weather, ski accessories in winter.

Where to Stay

Sundance offers standard rooms, studios, and cottage suites that range from $279 to $600 per night, as well as larger mountain suites and several luxury mountain homes that cost from $350 to over $1,000 per night. Each suite is outfitted with well-crafted handmade furnishings that match the rustic luxury of the entire resort, as well as American Indian crafts, stone fireplaces, and outdoor decks; most have fully equipped kitchens. Contact the Sundance Resort, R.R. 3, Box A-1, Sundance, UT 84604 ( 800/892-1600 or 801/225-4100; www.sundanceresort.com), for information and reservations.

Where to Eat

The Sundance restaurants’ culinary approach stresses the use of natural, seasonal ingredients, and dishes are often prepared with such locally raised products as lamb, fresh trout or chicken, and lots of seasonal fruit and vegetables. Dinner reservations are recommended, particularly in season. Full liquor service is available.

The Tree Room ★★ ( 801/223-4200 for reservations), the resort’s most elegant dining room for over 25 years, is the place for relaxing, romantic dinners with wine and candlelight in a room decorated with American Indian art and artifacts from Redford’s private collection. Seasonal menus might include wild Alaskan salmon with collard greens and roasted beets, grilled buffalo tenderloin with wild mushroom au gratin, and a signature pepper steak with buttermilk mashed potatoes and mango chutney. It’s open daily from 5pm, with dinner entree prices from $24 to $47.

The Foundry Grill ( 801/223-4220), a less formal eatery offering seasonal ranch-style cuisine, serves three meals Monday through Saturday and brunch and dinner on Sunday. Wood is the predominant feature in both decor and food—a wood oven and wood-fired grill and rotisserie are the main cooking methods. Lunch main courses range from $10 to $17; dinner entrees run $12 to $35.

The Owl Bar ( 801/223-4222) is just next door. This is the same 1890s bar frequented by Butch Cassidy’s Hole-in-the-Wall Gang, moved here from Wyoming, stripped of shag, and refinished—but now locals and resort guests belly up to the Victorian rosewood bar to order their favorite tipple. A limited grill menu is available ($14–$35); it’s open from 5pm weekdays and noon weekends.

Provo & Environs

45 miles S of Salt Lake City, 258 miles NE of St. George

The second-largest metropolitan area in Utah, Provo (elevation 4,500 ft.) and its adjacent communities have a population of over 500,000. The main draw here is Brigham Young University, with its museums, cultural events, and spectator sports. Provo also makes a good base for exploring the nearby mountains, Timpanogos Cave National Monument, and the quite spectacular gardens and other attractions at Thanksgiving Point, in nearby Lehi. The Ute Indian tribe reigned here until Mormon leader Brigham Young sent 30 families south from Salt Lake City in March 1849 to colonize the area. Today, the city remains primarily Mormon; many restaurants, stores, and attractions are closed Sundays.

South of Provo lies Springville, a town of about 30,000 that likes to refer to itself as “Utah’s Art City.” Although not a major tourist destination, it is home to one of the state’s finest art museums. Orem, which abuts Provo on the northwest, is a tech industry hub. Utah Lake State Park, just west of downtown Provo, is great for boating, and the surrounding Wasatch Mountains abound with natural beauty and recreational opportunities.

Essentials

Getting There Provo and Orem are easily accessible from the north or south by I-15. If you’re driving in from the east on I-70, take exit 156 at Green River and follow U.S. 6 northwest to I-15 north.

Amtrak ( 800/872-7245; www.amtrak.com) offers passenger service to Provo on the Chicago-to-Emeryville California Zephyr line. The train station is located at 600 South and 300 West.

The Utah Transit Authority runs about a dozen bus routes in and around the Provo area, with connections to Salt Lake City, Lehi, and Springville. For schedule information, call 801/743-3882 or check the Web, www.rideuta.com. Route maps and schedules are also available at the visitor center in the county courthouse. The FrontRunner train will run south to here from Salt Lake City by 2015.

Visitor Information The Utah Valley Convention and Visitors Bureau runs a visitor center at 111 S. University Ave., Provo, UT 84601 ( 800/222-8824 or 801/851-2100; www.utahvalley.org/cvb). The visitor center is open 8:30am to 5pm Monday through Friday and 9am to 3pm on Saturday.

Where to Stay & Eat in Downtown Provo

For information on the surrounding national forest, contact the Uinta National Forest, 88 W. 100 North, Provo, UT 84601 ( 801/342-5100; http://fs.usda.gov/uwcnf).

Getting Around The easiest way to get around is by car. The streets are organized in a numbered grid pattern, beginning at the intersection of Center Street and University Avenue in Provo. From here, the blocks increase by 100 in all four directions, such as 100 South, 200 West, 700 North, and so forth. University Parkway cuts diagonally northwest across the grid from Brigham Young University to connect with 1300 South (I-15 exit 269) in Orem. The center of Orem is the intersection of Center Street (I-15 exit 271) and Main Street. State Street (U.S. 89) crosses the city diagonally.

Major car-rental agencies include Avis ( 800/238-4898 or 801/494-1529; www.avis.com) and Enterprise ( 800/261-7331 or 801/375-7755; www.enterprise.com).

Fast Facts The main hospital in Provo is Utah Valley Regional Medical Center, 1034 N. 500 West ( 801/357-7850), with a 24-hour emergency room. The main post office is at 95 W. 100 South ( 800/275-8777; www.usps.com). The local newspaper is the Daily Herald (www.heraldextra.com). The sales tax totals 6.25%.

Exploring Brigham Young University

Founded in 1875 by Brigham Young, Brigham Young University is the nation’s largest church-owned private university, sponsored by the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints. Home to more than 30,000 students, the beautiful 638-acre campus is located on the east side of Provo at the base of the Wasatch Mountains.

For information, contact Brigham Young University, Public Affairs and Guest Relations, Provo, UT 84602 ( 801/422-4678; www.byu.edu). To get to the university from I-15 north, take exit 269, University Parkway, and travel east through Orem into Provo to the northwest entrance of the campus.

Free 40-minute tours of the campus, beginning at the visitor center, are offered Monday through Friday on the hour from 9am to 4pm. Allow at least 1 hour. Admission to campus museums is free unless otherwise noted; allow 1 to 2 hours for each of the BYU museums.

The 112-foot-tall Spencer W. Kimball Tower, a campus landmark, houses 52 bells that toll at intervals throughout the day.

The Monte L. Bean Life Science Museum, 645 E. 1430 North, just east of the Marriott Center ( 801/422-5051; http://mlbean.byu.edu), houses extensive collections of insects, plants, reptiles, fish, shells, mammals, and birds from around the world, with an emphasis on Utah’s wildlife. It’s open Monday through Friday from 10am to 9pm and Saturday from 10am to 5pm. Admission is free.

The BYU Museum of Paleontology, 1683 N. Provo Canyon Rd., west of LaVell Edwards Football Stadium ( 801/422-3680), houses one of Utah’s largest collections of dinosaur bones from the Jurassic period. Guided tours are available by appointment. Hours are Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm and there is no admission charge.

The Harris Fine Arts Center, Campus Drive ( 801/422-2881 or 801/422-4322 for the ticket office), houses galleries featuring American and European artists. The B. F. Larsen Gallery and Gallery 303 feature student and faculty exhibitions. The center also hosts theatrical and musical performances in its five theaters; call for the schedule and ticket prices.

The state-of-the-art BYU Museum of Art ★★, north of the Fine Arts Center at 492 E. Campus Dr. ( 801/422-8287; http://moa.byu.edu), is one of the largest museums in the West. Its 17,000-plus-piece collection includes something for everyone, from ceramics to sculpture, paintings to pottery. The galleries hold everything from etchings by Rembrandt and Monet to jade and ivory from Asia. The museum also contains a gift shop and a cafe that serves lunch. Hours are Monday through Saturday from 10am to 6pm (until 9pm Thurs–Fri). Admission is charged for special exhibitions only.

The Museum of Peoples and Cultures, in Allen Hall, 100 E. 700 North ( 801/422-0020; http://mpc.byu.edu), focuses on the cultures of the Western Hemisphere, but also looks at Colombian, Egyptian, Israeli, Polynesian, and Syrian societies. It’s open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm (until 7pm Tues and Thurs) and admission is free.

The Harold B. Lee Library ( 801/422-2927; http://lib.byu.edu) is the largest library in Utah, with more than three million bound volumes. Library hours are Monday through Friday from 7am to midnight and Saturday from 8am to midnight. The second floor houses one of the world’s largest genealogical libraries ( 801/422-6200), with free services to all.

More to See & Do in the Provo Area

Here in Provo, home of Brigham Young University, are a number of stately homes that once belonged to well-to-do church officials, as well as commercial buildings constructed to serve the growing community. Stop at the visitor center for a booklet describing the city’s dozens of historic buildings. Nearby, the Utah County Courthouse is well worth a visit. This magnificent structure was built of Manti limestone in the 1920s. Notice the marble floors and detailing, the fine collection of artwork displayed on the walls, and the overall feeling of grandeur emanating from the classical balance of the design.

The Provo Town Square, at the intersection of University Avenue and Center Street, contains the core of Provo’s business community, which began to develop and grow in the 1890s. Here you’ll see the 1900 Knight Block, a big red building with a large clock; the Gates & Snow Furniture Co., to the east of the Knight Block, with one of Utah’s best pressed-tin fronts; and the Zion Bank, at the northwest corner, situated in what was originally the Bank of Commerce building. West along Center Street sits a row of period storefronts, with the newer businesses now occupying them.

An interesting historic home is the Thomas N. Taylor House, 342 N. 500 West. “T.N.T.,” as he was known, was manager of the Taylor Brothers Store and served as mayor of Provo and president of the Utah Stake of the LDS Church. His home, built in the first decade of the 20th century, exemplifies the kind of house most second-generation Utahns aspired to have. Nearby is the Clark-Taylor House, 310 N. 500 West, thought to be the oldest home in Utah Valley still standing on its original site. The adobe structure was built in 1854, with later additions of the two-story front, the trim around the windows, and the gables. Neither of these houses is open for tours.

Heading out of town, a turnout on U.S. 189, about 4 miles north and east of Provo, affords awe-inspiring views of Bridal Veil Falls, a double cataract waterfall that drops 607 feet to the Provo River. This is also a good spot to begin hikes into Provo Canyon.

Hutchings Museum Born in 1889, John Hutchings had an insatiable curiosity about the world around him. He collected and studied numerous objects, discussing his observations with friends and family. His collections are the core of this museum, which houses mineral displays and rare specimens of variscite and crystal aluminum, and describes their links to mining districts of the region. Also on display are dinosaur bones, flamingo tracks from Spanish Fork Canyon, a piece of tusk from a woolly mammoth, tools and pottery from early man, and artifacts from Utah’s early residents, including a shotgun owned by famed outlaw Butch Cassidy. Allow 45 minutes.

55 N. Center St., Lehi. 801/768-7180. www.hutchingsmuseum.org. Admission $4 adults; $3 seniors, students, and children 3–12; free for children 2 and under; $12 family. Tues–Sat 11am–5pm. From I-15 exit 279, take Main St. west to Center St. and turn right.

Provo Beach Resort ★ Featuring a mind-boggling array of diversions (indoor surfing to outdoor beach cruiser bicycles, not to mention Pinewood Derby, minigolf, and a boardwalk complete with a carousel), this attraction is located at an upscale mall on the north side of Provo proper. Allow at least 1 hour for your visit.

4801 N. University Ave., Provo. 801/224-5001. www.provobeachresort.com. Admission varies by activity; cruisers are $6–$8 an hour, surfing $20 an hour, carousel rides $1. Mon–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri 11am–11pm; Sat 10am–11pm. Closed Sun and legal holidays.

Springville Museum of Art ★★ The art of Utah is the cornerstone of this fine museum, housed in part in a 1937 Spanish Colonial Revival–style building. The museum contains one of the finest displays of Utah art available, arranged in chronological order to illustrate the development of art in the state. Of its nine galleries, four are reserved for changing exhibits of historical and contemporary art of Utah. The museum also has an excellent (and little-known) collection of Russian and Soviet Socialist Realism. The museum contains a research library and bookstore, and offers a series of lectures. Allow about 1 hour for your visit.

126 E. 400 South, Springville. 801/489-2727. www.sma.nebo.edu. Free admission; donations accepted. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm (Wed to 9pm); Sun 3–6pm. Closed Mon and legal holidays. From I-15 exit 260, go east to Springville, entering town on 400 South.

Thanksgiving Point ★★ This huge complex, developed by the cofounders of WordPerfect software as an expression of gratitude to their community, includes a splendid dinosaur museum—the Museum of Ancient Life. Billed as the largest dinosaur museum in the world, it houses some of the longest and tallest dinosaur replicas ever put on display, plus fossils and related exhibits on paleontology. The museum contains a children’s discovery room, a fossil lab where you can see paleontologists at work, a widescreen theater, and a museum store selling practically everything dinosaur related. Allow 2 hours.

Elsewhere at Thanksgiving Point are the delightful Thanksgiving Point Gardens—55 acres of themed gardens, including topiary, butterfly, fragrance, herb, and English rose gardens, plus an unusual waterfall garden, all connected by some 2 miles of landscaped brick pathways. The Children’s Discovery Garden, designed to encourage children’s imaginations, contains a large Noah’s Ark, an underground exhibit area, and a hedge maze. Allow 2 hours. Kids will also enjoy Farm Country, with an animal park and exhibits on the farming life (allow 1–2 hr.). Other attractions include an amphitheater, a golf course, numerous shops, and several restaurants. Wagon and carriage rides are also offered.

3003 N. Thanksgiving Way, Lehi. 888/672-6040 or 801/768-2300. www.thanksgivingpoint.com. Admission to museum $10 adults, $8 children 3–12 and seniors 65 and over, free for children 2 and under. Call for fees for gardens and other sites and activities. Grounds Mon–Sat; call for hours for specific venues. Closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas. From I-15 exit 284, go west to Thanksgiving Way.

Sports & Outdoor Pursuits

One of the top spots for fishing, boating, and swimming in this area is Utah Lake State Park ★★, 4400 W. Center St. ( 801/375-0731; www.stateparks.utah.gov), Utah’s largest freshwater lake. The 96,600-acre lake is especially popular with owners of speedboats, personal watercraft, and sailboats, although the occasional canoe or kayak can be seen gliding by. Mountains dominate the view in all directions, and at night, the lights of the city illuminate the panorama to the east. Anglers catch channel catfish, walleye, white bass, black bass, and several species of panfish. While there are boat-launching ramps, there are no boat rentals. Although the park itself has no hiking or biking trails, the Provo River Parkway Trail leads from the edge of the park into Provo Canyon (see below).

The park’s 54-site campground is open April through October only; the park is open for day use year-round. The campground has no RV hookups, but it does have a dump station as well as modern restrooms with showers. Day-use hours are 6am to 10pm in summer, 8am to 5pm in winter. Day use costs $9 per vehicle. Camping costs $20; reservations can be made by calling 800/322-3770, or through the state parks website (www.stateparks.utah.gov). Take I-15 exit 268, Center Street west; it’s about 3 miles to the park.

Outdoor recreation enthusiasts also head into the Uinta National Forest, which practically surrounds Provo and offers hundreds of miles of hiking, mountain biking, and horseback riding trails. Check with the Forest Supervisor’s office, 88 W. 100 North ( 801/377-5780; http://fs.usda.gov/uwcnf), for maps and tips on where to go.

Right in town, the 15-mile Provo River Parkway Trail winds from Utah Lake to Provo Canyon, following the Provo River part of the way. This slag trail (slag is the rock left over when a metal is mined) is open to both bikers and hikers.

Among the public golf courses in the area are Thanksgiving Point Golf Club in Lehi (; 801/768-7400), an 18-hole, par-72 championship course designed by golf pro Johnny Miller, with greens fees of $29 to $85 for 18 holes, cart included; Cascade Golf Course, 1313 E. 800 North, Orem ( 801/225-6677; www.cascadegolfcenter.com), which has a driving range and 9 holes and is par-35, with greens fees of $12 to $13, plus $7 per person for a cart; and East Bay Golf Course, 1860 S. Eastbay Blvd. ( 801/373-6262), on the south side of the city, which is an 18-hole, par-71 course with greens fees of $11 to $13 for 9 holes ($14 for a cart) and $27 for 18 holes, cart included.

Lehi is home to a huge (150,000-sq.-ft.!) Cabela’s, 2502 W. Grand Terrace Pkwy. ( 801/766-2500; www.cabelas.com), selling every kind of outdoor gear imaginable. They’ve even got a restaurant, horse corrals, and an indoor archery range.

Water & Ice Fun

Seven Peaks Water Park This is the place for a wide variety of water fun: Dozens of heated water attractions on 26 acres are set against the mountains. The facilities include a large wave pool, winding slides, children’s pools, an activity pool, large pavilions and shaded cabanas, plenty of grass, a gift shop, and food vendors. Tubes are available for rent. The adjacent Peaks Ice Arena ( 801/852-7465), built for the 2002 Olympics, contains two Olympic-size ice-skating rinks that are open to the public. Skate rental is available. The arena is open year-round; call for the current rates and schedule.

1330 E. 300 North. 801/377-4386. www.sevenpeaks.com. All-day admission to the Water Park $25 adults, $20 children under 48 in. tall, free for seniors 65 and older and toddlers 3 and under; half-day (after 4pm) $16 ages 4–64. Water Park late May to early Sept Mon–Sat 11am–8pm. From I-15 exit 265, head east on Center St.

Spectator Sports

Brigham Young University is part of the Mountain West Conference. The Cougars football team plays at the 65,000-seat LaVell Edwards Football Stadium; tickets are hard to come by, so call as far in advance as possible. The basketball team plays in the 23,000-seat Marriott Center; you usually won’t have too much trouble getting tickets, especially now that Jimmer Fredette has moved on to the NBA. For general information on all BYU sports teams, call 801/422-2096, or check the athletic department’s website at www.byucougars.com. For tickets, call 800/322-2981 or 801/422-2981, or buy online at www.byutickets.com.

Where to Stay

In addition to the following listings, affordable chain and franchise motels in Provo include Best Western Plus Cottontree Inn, 2230 N. University Pkwy. ( 800/662-6886 or 801/373-7044; www.bestwestern.com), Days Inn, 1675 W 200 North ( 800/329-7466 or 801/375-8600; www.daysinn.com), Econo Lodge, 1625 W. Center St. ( 800/553-2666 or 801/373-0099; www.choicehotels.com), La Quinta Inn, 1460 S. University Ave. ( 800/753-3757 or 801/374-9750; www.lq.com), and Sleep Inn, 1505 S. 40 East ( 800/753-3746 or 801/377-6597; www.choicehotels.com). Rates are typically $60 to $120 for a double at these properties.

Rates are highest in summer, lowest in late winter and early spring. Rates are often significantly higher during Brigham Young University special events, and rooms can be very scarce at graduation time. Tax added to lodging bills is 11%. Pets are not allowed unless otherwise noted.

Hines Mansion Bed & Breakfast ★★ Built in 1895 for pharmacist and mining magnate Russell Spencer Hines, this Victorian-style mansion is a true gem. It makes a wonderful spot to celebrate a special occasion or to simply relax and soak up some historical charm. Innkeepers Sandy and John Rowe have retained the mansion’s historical ambience and integrity while adding numerous modern touches. Every room is unique, but each has a queen- or king-size bed, robes, and a two-person whirlpool tub plus a separate private bathroom. The penthouse, which occupies the entire top floor of the mansion, boasts a king-size bed, a 46-inch TV with a DVD player, and spectacular views of the city and nearby mountains from the tub. Fresh-baked cookies and fresh fruit are served each evening. Breakfasts feature fruit, yogurt, and a hot dish such as baked egg puffs or pecan pancakes. Smoking is not permitted.

383 W. 100 South, Provo, UT 84601. www.hinesmansion.com. 800/428-5636 or 801/374-8400. Fax 801/374-0823. 9 units. $129–$235 double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, MC, V. Not recommended for children. In room: A/C, TV/VCR or DVD, movie library, Wi-Fi (free).

Provo Marriott This well-regarded high-rise hotel in downtown Provo provides comfortable—even luxurious—accommodations with splendid views (especially from the upper floors) and all the amenities you could want, including coffeemakers, irons and ironing boards, hair dryers, and wireless high-speed Internet access in the rooms. Public areas and bedrooms are handsomely appointed, decorated primarily in light earth tones. Some in-room fridges are available, and some units have whirlpool tubs. Allie’s American Grille serves three meals daily.

101 W. 100 North, Provo, UT 84601. www.provomarriott.com. 888/825-3162 or 801/377-4700. Fax 801/377-4708. 330 units, including 6 suites. $89–$149 double; $299–$500 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; concierge-level rooms; fitness center; Jacuzzi; 2 heated pools (indoor and outdoor); room service; sauna; Wi-Fi (free). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi ($10 per day).

Camping

Lakeside RV Campground Situated along the Provo River, this campground offers the best of both worlds—it’s close to the attractions and restaurants of Provo, and it offers a quiet camping experience with trees, flowers, grassy areas, ducks, and geese. In addition to the usual bathhouse, dump station, and RV hookups, the campground has a self-serve laundry, free Wi-Fi access, heated pool, nature walk, horseshoe pits, volleyball area, playground, and game room. A store sells groceries, and propane is available. You can fish in the Provo River, or head to Utah Lake, just a quarter-mile away.

4000 W. Center St., Provo, UT 84601. www.lakesidervcampground.com. 801/373-5267. Fax 801/373-8624. 130 sites (all RV sites, most with full hookups). $20–$30 for 2 people. DISC, MC, V. From I-15 exit 265B, go west 3 miles. Pets welcome.

Where to Eat

Provo is a conservative, family-oriented city; many restaurants do not serve alcohol, and a number are closed on Sundays. In addition to the restaurants discussed below, try the recommended Tree Room, at the nearby Sundance Resort and Sammy’s Cafe, 27 N. 100 West ( 801/805-9208; http://sammyscafe.blogspot.com), an old-school burger joint that stays open later than every place else in town—midnight most nights and 2am on Friday and Saturday. Burgers are $5 to $7.

Porter’s Place ★★ STEAK/AMERICAN One of Utah’s more colorful and controversial characters, Porter Rockwell served as a bodyguard for LDS church leaders Joseph Smith and Brigham Young; was accused but acquitted of attempting to assassinate the lieutenant governor of Missouri; and was blamed for, but not charged with, other murders. Named in Rockwell’s honor, Porter’s Place is an Old West–style restaurant with a large regional following. Housed in a 1915 building, the restaurant has the look of an old saloon, with redbrick walls, heavy wood tables, and old photos. The counter (actually a bar from an 1883 Montana saloon) has tractor seats for stools.

Porter’s specializes in thick steaks and fresh fish. The lunch menu features a variety of sandwiches and burgers, including a buffalo burger and a huge 1-pound beef burger. Especially popular at dinner are the top sirloin steaks, ranging from 5 to 24 ounces, and the buffalo steaks. Portions are generally large, but the dinner menu also offers 10 “lite dinners” with smaller portions. A local bakery provides the breads and pastries; fountain treats such as old-fashioned sodas, malts, and banana splits are available as well. Despite the saloonlike appearance and handsome old bar, no alcohol is served.

24 W. Main St., Lehi. 801/768-8348. www.porterrockwellutah.com. Main courses $7–$10 lunch, $9–$35 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 10am–10pm; Fri–Sat 10am–11pm. From I-15 exit 279, go west on Main St.

Ruby River Steakhouse ★ STEAK If a thick, juicy, sizzling steak is your idea of the perfect meal, then Ruby River is for you. Decor is strictly Western, with a large painting of galloping wild horses, a rock fireplace, and a bar with tall tables and buckets of peanuts. Beef is USDA Choice, aged 21 days, hand-cut, seasoned, and double-broiled at 1,600°F (871°C). Choices range from the New York cut (voted Utah’s best steak in various polls) to tender filet mignon, rib-eye, T-bone, and porterhouse. The very tasty prime rib is slow-roasted and served with fresh-grated horseradish and sour cream. The restaurant also does an admirable job with slow-roasted baby back ribs in Louisiana-style barbecue sauce, and several chicken and seafood dishes. Side dishes include a baked potato that’s deep-fried in garlic batter and a baked yam that’s deep-fried in cinnamon batter. There is a full bar, a rarity in these parts.

1454 S. University Ave. (in the La Quinta Inn). 801/371-0648. www.rubyriver.com. Reservations not accepted, but you can call ahead to get on the waiting list. Main courses $7–$18 lunch, $12–$35 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–10pm; Fri–Sat 11am–11pm; Sun 1–9pm. Just north of I-15 exit 269.

Sensuous Sandwich SANDWICHES At this speedy, kitsch- and Polaroid-laden sandwich shop, you can eat at one of the tables, clad in cartoons and unusual news clippings, or you can take your selection to go. All sandwiches come with the usual condiments, including spicy brown mustard and lettuce, as well as extras such as horseradish, olives, avocado, green pepper, and cheese. Top of the line is, of course, the Sensuous Sandwich, with ham, turkey, roast beef, and jack cheese. Also available are veggie, pastrami, crab, chicken breast, and tuna, as well as salads. No alcohol is served. This downtown spot is especially busy; a second location is at 378 E. University Pkwy., Orem ( 801/225-9475).

163 W. Center St. 801/377-9244. www.sensuoussandwich.com. Sandwiches by the inch: $2.70–$12 (4–24 in.). MC, V. Mon–Sat 10:30am–8pm. From I-15 exit 265A, follow Center St. east.

Provo After Dark

The Brigham Young University Theatre, on the BYU campus ( 801/422-4322; www.byuarts.com), presents more than a dozen theatrical productions each year.

From summer through early fall, you can see live musicals and concerts under the stars at the SCERA Shell Theatre, 699 S. State St., in SCERA Park, Orem ( 801/225-2569; www.scera.org). The season usually includes several locally produced Broadway musicals, plus a variety of concerts, from pop to country to classical.

There is a downtown bar and rock venue, A. Beuford Gifford’s Libation Emporium, 190 W. Center St. ( 801/373-1200; www.abgsbar.com).

Timpanogos Cave National Monument

20 miles N of Provo, 35 miles S of Salt Lake City

This national monument is actually composed of three caves—Hansen, Middle, and Timpanogos—that are linked together by man-made tunnels. Martin Hansen discovered the first cavern in 1887 while tracking a mountain lion. The other two were reported in the early 1910s, and the connecting tunnels were constructed in the 1930s. The caves are filled with 47 kinds of formations, from stalactites and stalagmites to draperies and helictites. The caves aren’t easy to reach, but their beauty and variety make them worth the rough 1 1/2-hour trek to the mouth.

Essentials

The caves are accessible only on guided tours from early May to mid-October, daily from 7:30am to 4:30pm (8am–3:30pm after Labor Day). The caves close in winter because snow and ice make the access trail too hazardous. The steep trail is not navigable by wheelchair or stroller.

Getting There/Access Points From Provo, head north on I-15 to exit 284, then east on Utah 92 to the visitor center, which is on the south side of the road. For a beautiful but slow drive, when you leave the caves, continue east and then south on Utah 92 through American Fork Canyon, which is narrow and winding, and turn west on U.S. 189 back to Provo. From Salt Lake City, take I-15 south to exit 287, and proceed as above.

Information/Visitor Center Contact Timpanogos Cave National Monument at R.R. 3, Box 200, American Fork, UT 84003 ( 801/756-5238 or 801/756-5239 in winter; www.nps.gov/tica). The visitor center is on the south side of Utah 92. It is open May to Labor Day daily from 7am to 5:30pm, and Labor Day to mid-October daily from 8am to 5pm.

Note that parking at the visitor center is limited for large vehicles, such as motor homes over 20 feet. Although small, the visitor center offers a short film about the caves, a few explanatory displays and booklets, and postcards for sale. A snack bar and gift shop are next to the center, as well as two picnic areas located along the shady banks of the American Fork River. One is across from the visitor center; a larger one, with fire grills and restrooms, is about a quarter-mile west.

Fees & Regulations One-hour cave tours cost $7 for adults, $5 for children 6 to 15, $3 for children 3 to 5, and free for children 2 and under; 90-minute “Introduction to Caving” tours, available only to those 14 and older, cost $15 per person. The U.S. Forest Service also charges a $6 per vehicle fee to enter American Fork Canyon, where the national monument is located. Pets are not allowed on the trail or in the caves.

Exploring the Monument

The only way to see the caves is on a ranger-guided tour. Allow about 3 hours total for the basic cave tour—1 1/2 hours hiking up, an hour in the caves, and 30 to 45 minutes hiking back down. The tours are limited to 20 persons and often fill up early in the morning, so it’s best to call ahead and reserve your space with a credit card. The “Introduction to Caving” tours are about a half-hour longer and are limited to five people. Reservations are required. The temperature inside the caves is around 45°F (7°C; about the same as a refrigerator), so take a jacket or sweatshirt.

The Hike to the Caves The change in elevation between the visitor center (at about 5,600 ft.) and the cave entrance is 1,065 feet, and the steep, albeit paved, trail is 1.5 miles long; it’s a physically demanding walk, but quite rewarding. The trail should not be attempted by anyone with breathing, heart, or walking difficulties. Wear good walking shoes and carry water and perhaps a snack.

This is a self-guided hike, so you can travel at your own pace, stopping at the benches along the way to rest and enjoy the views of the canyon, the Wasatch Range, and Utah Valley. A trail guide, available at the visitor center, will help you identify the wildflowers growing amid the Douglas fir, white fir, maple, and oak trees. You’ll also spot chipmunks, ground squirrels, lizards, and myriad birds along the way. Restrooms are available at the cave entrance, but not inside the cave or along the trail.

Touring the Caves The basic ranger-guided cave tour is along a surfaced, well-lit, and fairly level route. You enter at the natural entrance to Hansen Cave and continue through Hansen, Middle, and Timpanogos Caves. Nature decorated the limestone chambers with delicately colored stalactites, stalagmites, draperies, graceful flowstone, and helictites (curvy formations for which the caves are famous), all in soft greens, reds, yellows, and white. The huge cave formation of linked stalactites at the Great Heart of Timpanogos is quite impressive, and the profusion of bizarre, brilliant white helictites in the Chimes Chamber of Timpanogos is stunning. Mirrorlike cave pools reflect the formations. The “Introduction to Caving” tours ($15 per person) take you to less developed sections, and require some crawling through tight places.

Bring high-speed film or a flash if you’re taking photos; tripods are not allowed. Remember that the formations are fragile and easily damaged, even by a light touch of your hand. Also note that the oils from your skin will change the chemical makeup of the formations.