Chapter 8: Dinosaurs & Natural Wonders in Utah’s Northeast Corner

Utah has more than its share of natural treasures, with Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks and the other wonderful red-rock areas of southern Utah springing to mind first. But tucked away in the state’s far northeastern corner, more rugged and less accessible, lies a playground of great scenic beauty, filled with fascinating historic (and prehistoric) sites. And you won’t have to fight throngs of tourists here: This land where the dinosaurs once roamed is still relatively undiscovered and unspoiled.

Vernal: Gateway to Dinosaur national monument

175 miles E of Salt Lake City

A perfect base for exploring Dinosaur National Monument—just 20 miles from town—and Ashley National Forest, Vernal (at 5,280 ft. in elevation) is the largest community in the region. You’ll find all the services you might need, as well as a few attractions that serve as a good introduction to the compelling geologic and natural history of the area. It’s also emerging as a mountain-biking destination for those who have ridden southern Utah’s slickrock and are looking for new terrain to pedal.

The Northeast Corner

Essentials

Getting There From Heber City, U.S. 40 leads east, past Strawberry Reservoir (there’s world-class fishing here if you have time to stop; ) and through Duchesne and Roosevelt, each of which has a few motels, restaurants, and services, before reaching Vernal (158 miles from Heber City).

From I-70, take exit 157 west of Green River and follow U.S. 6/191 north 68 miles through Price and Helper, branching northeast above Helper to follow U.S. 191 for 44 beautiful, mountainous miles to Duchesne. Then take U.S. 40 east for 58 miles to Vernal.

The Vernal Regional Airport ( 435/789-3400) is located about 1 1/2 miles southeast of the center of town, with flights to and from Denver year-round on Great Lakes Airlines ( 800/554-5111 or 307/433-2899; www.greatlakesav.com).

Visitor Information Information on area lodging, dining, and recreational facilities can be obtained from Northeastern Utah’s Dinosaurland Travel Board, 134 W. Main St., Ste. 101, Vernal, UT 84078 ( 800/477-5558 or 435/781-6765; www.dinoland.com), open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm. You can also get information at the Utah Welcome Center in Jensen, about 13 miles southeast of Vernal on U.S. 40 ( 435/789-6932), which is open in summer daily from 8am to 8pm and in winter daily from 9am to 5pm.

Getting Around Car rentals are available at the airport from Enterprise ( 800/261-7331 or 435/781-3008) and All Save ( 435/789-4777; www.allsavecarrental.com). Local transportation is available 24 hours a day from Vernal City Cab ( 435/790-1212).

Outdoor Pursuits

In addition to the outdoor recreation areas discussed here, see the sections “Dinosaur National Monument” and “Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area,” later in this chapter. Basin Sports, 511 W. Main St., in Vernal ( 435/789-2199), is a good place to stock up on gear.

Ashley National Forest

This vast forest encompasses more than a million acres of beautiful mountain country, including Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area and the High Uintas Wilderness, which is home to Kings Peak, Utah’s tallest mountain, at 13,528 feet. Throughout the national forest are numerous opportunities for hiking, backpacking, fishing, camping, cross-country skiing, and other activities. The Forest Service also rents out its guard stations and yurts, which make an excellent base for exploring the mountains north of Vernal (see “Where to Stay,” below).

The two major access points are along U.S. 191 from Vernal and Utah 44 from Manila. Information is available from the Vernal Ranger District office, 355 N. Vernal Ave., Vernal, UT 84078 ( 435/789-1181; www.fs.fed.us/r4/ashley), open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm.

Ouray National Wildlife Refuge

Hundreds of species of migratory birds and waterfowl make their home in this 11,987-acre wetlands refuge, which lies south of Vernal along the Green River. A 12-mile car tour route begins at the visitor contact station, which also has hiking trails and an observation tower. In addition to a variety of birds, you’re likely to see mule deer.

To get here from Vernal, take U.S. 40 west about 14 miles and turn left (south) onto Utah 88 for about 14 miles to the refuge entrance. The visitor contact station is about a mile from the entrance. Entry is free. The refuge is open daily year-round, from an hour before sunrise to an hour after sunset; camping is not allowed in the refuge. Contact the refuge office, HC 69, Box 232, Randlett, UT 84063-2042 ( 435/545-2522; http://ouray.fws.gov), for more information.

Red Fleet State Park

Located 10 miles north of Vernal, at 4335 N. U.S. 191, this scenic park—which looks like a junior version of Lake Powell—offers fishing, boating, swimming, and camping, plus about 200 well-preserved dinosaur tracks. The 750-acre Red Fleet Reservoir was named for three large deep-red sandstone rock formations that resemble the hulls of ships. You’ll encounter sandy beaches, rock cliffs, and plenty of open water; wildlife such as rabbits, ground squirrels, mule deer, and the occasional bobcat; and good fishing for rainbow and brown trout, bluegill, and bass. On chilly mornings, golden eagles are sometimes spotted sunning themselves on rock outcroppings; other birds that frequent the park include hawks, vultures, owls, and bluebirds.

The dinosaur tracks, which are about 200 million years old, are found on a large slab of rock that slants down into the water and is located across the reservoir from the park’s boat ramp. The greatest number of tracks can be seen when the water level is low, from late summer through winter. You can reach the tracks by boat or by swimming (wear a life jacket so you can return easily), or via a 1.5-mile hike (one-way) from a Bureau of Land Management road. To reach the BLM road, continue north along U.S. 191 1 mile past the turnoff to Red Fleet. Turn right (east) just past mile marker 212, cross a cattle guard, and drive 2 1/3 miles on the paved road to the trail head, a small turnout with a sign at the trail; a stock tank sits across the road, partly hidden by bushes and trees. Allow about 2 hours for the moderate hike over low, sandy hills. In winter, when the reservoir is frozen, it’s a quick walk from the boat ramp across the ice to the tracks (provided it’s thick enough to cross—please use caution).

Park facilities include the boat ramp, fish-cleaning stations, an RV dump station, and a 29-site campground. Although the campground is essentially a parking lot, it does offer splendid panoramic views across the lake. There are also five sites with full hookups, grassy areas for tents, plus tables and fire pits, and modern restrooms but no showers. Camping costs $13 for tents or $25 for RV hookups; the day-use fee is $7 per vehicle. Gates are open daily from 6am to 10pm in summer, 8am to 5pm in winter. Call 435/789-4432 for information, 800/322-3770 for campsite reservations. The Utah State Parks website is www.stateparks.utah.gov.

The Drive Through the Ages

One of the most scenic drives in the state is the Flaming Gorge–Uintas Scenic Byway—U.S. 191 from Vernal up to Manila and Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area—one of the first designated national scenic byways in the United States. The 67-mile route climbs through foothills covered with pine and juniper trees into the Uinta Mountains; signs along the way explain the evolution of the intriguing geologic formations visible along the drive. Near Flaming Gorge, you pass the billion-year-old rock core of the Uinta Mountains. Stop at some of the many turnouts for scenic views, short walks, and wildlife viewing—watch for bighorn sheep, elk, mule deer, and moose, especially in spring.

Steinaker State Park

Steinaker offers a sandy swimming beach, good fishing for rainbow trout and largemouth bass, and an attractive campground, just 7 miles north of Vernal at 4335 N. U.S. 191. This reservoir, which covers 780 acres when full, is also popular with water-skiers and boaters. Unfortunately, no rental facilities are nearby.

Wildlife here includes mule deer, jackrabbits, cottontails, ground squirrels, porcupines, and an occasional elk or bobcat. Migratory waterfowl are often seen in spring and fall, and the park also attracts American robins, pheasants, and golden eagles. The landscape is composed primarily of juniper and sagebrush, with cottonwoods and aspen trees near the lake. Spring usually brings out an abundance of wildflowers, such as Indian paintbrush, larkspur, and sego lily. Several unmarked hiking trails—ask a ranger for directions—and additional hiking opportunities are nearby on property managed by the Bureau of Land Management.

Facilities include a boat ramp, fish-cleaning station, and RV dump station. The tree-shaded campground contains 31 sites (five with RV hookups) and modern restrooms with hot showers. Picnic tables, barbecue grills, and fire pits are available. Camping costs $13 for tents or $25 for a site with RV hookups; the day-use fee is $7. Gates are open daily from 6am to 10pm in summer, from 8am to 5pm in winter. Call 435/789-4432 for information, 800/322-3770 for campsite reservations. The Utah State Parks website is www.stateparks.utah.gov.

What to See & Do in Town

Daughters of Utah Pioneers Museum This small museum offers a display of pioneer relics and photos, and a history of the settling of the area from the mid-1800s. Allow half an hour.

186 S. 500 West. 435/789-0352. www.dupinternational.org. Donations requested. June–Aug Tues–Sat 10am–4pm. Closed rest of year.

Utah Field House of Natural History State Park Museum ★ Centered around a 22,000-sq.-foot museum with a theater, this park gives visitors a close-up look at a huge dinosaur skeleton and a number of exhibits on paleontology, geology, and the Fremont and Ute cultures. Kids will love the Dinosaur Garden ★★, with 18 life-size models of dinosaurs and other prehistoric creatures in a delightful garden that simulates the dinosaurs’ actual habitat. Start your visit at the theater for a short film about paleontologists at work in the field. The gift shop sells dinosaur-related souvenirs and books. Allow at least 1 hour.

496 E. Main St. 435/789-3799. www.stateparks.utah.gov. $6 adults, $3 children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day.

Western Heritage Museum ★ This well-organized and attractive museum is a good stop for those interested in the prehistoric Fremont Indians—in fact, it contains one of the country’s best collections of Fremont Indian objects. It also has 1880s Ute artifacts and displays of historic rifles, fossils, and rocks. Pioneer life is depicted in a country store; a blacksmith shop with tack and saddles; a one-room schoolhouse; a barbershop; and a bedroom, kitchen, and parlor. Clothing fashions from 1880 to 1930 are also on display. The museum features changing art exhibits, and early horse-drawn wagons and farm equipment are on display outside. Allow an hour.

Western Park, 328 E. 200 South. 435/789-7399. Free admission. Memorial Day to Labor Day Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 10am–4pm; rest of year Mon–Fri 9am–5pm, Sat 10am–2pm.

Where to Stay

The town of Vernal has more than a dozen motels, including chain and franchise properties such as Best Western Antlers, 423 W. Main St. ( 800/780-7234 or 435/789-1202; www.bestwestern.com), Best Western Dinosaur Inn, 251 E. Main St. ( 800/780-7234 or 435/789-2660; www.bestwestern.com), Holiday Inn Express, 1515 W. Main St. ( 800/718-8466 or 435/789-4654; www.hiexpress.com), and Super 8, 1624 W. Main St. ( 800/800-8000 or 435/789-4326; www.super8.com). Among the independents, the best option is the Weston Plaza Hotel, 1684 W. Main St. ( 435/789-9550; www.westonplazavernal.com). Rates for double rooms range from $70 to $150, with the highest rates in summer. A good budget option is the Sage Motel, 54 W. Main St. ( 800/760-1442 or 435/789-1442; www.vernalmotels.com), with double rates of $40 to $70. There is also a B&B, the Jensen Inn, 5056 S. 9500 East, Jensen ( 435/789-5905; www.thejenseninn.com), not far from the boundary to Dinosaur National Monument. Rooms start at $95 for two people (the suite runs $150 and up), breakfast included, and it also has a tepee and a campground. Room tax adds about 9%.

Another lodging option in this area is to stay at one of the U.S. Forest Service’s guard stations or yurts ★, located in spectacular forest settings north of Vernal in the Ashley National Forest. Rates range from $25 to $40 per night, and the facilities offer a range of amenities and sleeping capacities and are available year-round. For information, contact the Vernal Ranger District office ( 435/789-1181; www.fs.fed.us/r4/ashley); for reservations, call 877/444-6777 or visit www.recreation.gov.

Camping

Among the area campgrounds with full RV hookups and hot showers is Dinosaurland KOA, 930 N. Vernal Ave., Vernal ( 435/789-2148; www.dinokoa.com), which is open from April through October. It has 65 RV sites and 15 grassy tent sites, with rates from $25 for tent sites and $32 to $38 for RV sites. This KOA also has seven cabins for $60 double and two deluxe cottages for $130 double and up. Both Red Fleet State Park and Steinaker State Park also have camping.

Where to Dine

Bakeries and delicatessens can be found at Davis Jubilee, 575 W. Main St. ( 435/789-2001), and Smith’s, 1080 W. Main St. ( 435/789-7135).

Betty’s Cafe ★ AMERICAN This simple, down-home cafe is a local favorite, and it’s easy to see why. It serves well-prepared homemade food at reasonable prices. Breakfast, which includes all the usual offerings, is served all day. Lunch fare is sandwiches, half- and quarter-pound burgers, plus such choices as chicken-fried steak, liver and onions, catfish, and hamburger steak. No alcoholic beverages are served, but the pie selection is great.

416 W. Main St. 435/781-2728. Main courses $4–$13. MC, V. Mon–Fri 6am–2pm; Sat–Sun 6am–noon.

Dino Brew Haus AMERICAN A bare-bones beer joint with Salt Lake’s Squatters microbrew on tap, the Dino Brew Haus isn’t much to look at—with concrete walls, a pool table, and a slightly woodsy feel—but it serves reasonably good burgers and barbecue, as well as salads and sandwiches, including a portobello mushroom. It also has a patio out back and serves as the home base for a river-rafting company, Dinosaur Expeditions ( 800/345-7238; www.dinoadv.com).

550 E. Main St. 435/781-0717. Main courses $8–$17. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm.

7-11 Ranch Restaurant ★ AMERICAN A good family restaurant offering home-style food in a comfortable, Western-style setting, the 7-11 Ranch Restaurant had its beginnings in 1933, when Warren “Fat” Belcher sold a cow and bought a hot dog stand. Now owned by Belcher’s daughter Connie and her husband, Jerry Pope, the restaurant has changed a bit—you won’t even find hot dogs on the menu—but you can count on friendly service and a wide range of American favorites. Choose from a variety of burgers—including a huge 1-pound killer—plus hot and cold sandwiches, deep-fried and grilled halibut and other seafood, excellent chef’s salads, homemade chili, pork chops, and chicken in a variety of forms. There are also steaks, barbecued beef or pork ribs, and prime ribs on Fridays. Breakfasts consist of the usual American favorites. There is a large gift shop in the front with all sorts of dinosaur souvenirs.

77 E. Main St. 435/789-1170. Main courses $3–$8.50 breakfast, $6–$19 lunch and dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 6am–10pm.

Dinosaur National Monument

20 miles E of Vernal, 195 miles E of Salt Lake City

In some ways, this park is two separate experiences: a look at the lost world of dinosaurs on one hand, and a scenic wonderland of colorful rock, deep river canyons, and a forest of Douglas fir on the other.

About 150 million years ago, the region was a warm land of ferns, conifers, grasses, ponds, and rivers. This made it a suitable habitat for dinosaurs, including vegetarians such as diplodocus, apatosaurus, and stegosaurus; and sharp-toothed carnivores, such as allosaurus, that hunted their vegetarian cousins. When these huge creatures died, most of their skeletons decayed and disappeared, but in at least one spot, floodwaters washed dinosaur carcasses into the bottom of a river. Here they were preserved in sand and covered with sediment, creating the largest quarry of Jurassic-period dinosaur bones ever discovered.

But visitors who limit their trip to the Dinosaur Quarry, fascinating as it is, miss quite a bit. Encompassing 325 square miles of stark canyons at the confluence of two rivers, the monument also offers hiking trails, pioneer homesteads, thousand-year-old rock art, spectacular panoramic vistas, wildlife-watching opportunities, and the thrills of white-water rafting.

The Yampa, Green, and smaller rivers are responsible for the area’s fertility, creating microclimates that support hanging gardens of mosses and ferns, cottonwoods, and even an occasional Douglas fir—all just yards from the predominant landscape of sagebrush, cactus, and dwarfed piñon and juniper trees. Wildlife includes species that can survive the harsh extremes of the high desert climate—bighorn sheep, coyotes, rabbits, and snakes—as well as mule deer, beavers, and porcupines along the riverbanks. Birds that are occasionally spotted include peregrine falcons, sage grouse, and Canada geese.

Essentials

Getting There/Access Points/Visitor Centers Straddling the Utah-Colorado state line, Dinosaur National Monument is accessible via two main roads—one from each state—that don’t connect inside the monument.

The visitor center is 20 miles east of Vernal. To get here, take U.S. 40 to Jensen and head north on Utah 149 for 7 miles. The main visitor center at the Dinosaur Quarry closed in 2006 due to structural concerns and was replaced by a stunning new facility that opened in fall 2011. It is open daily from 9am to 5pm, with extended summer hours if staffing allows. It is closed New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving, and Christmas.

Administrative offices and a small visitor center are located about 2 miles east of the town of Dinosaur, Colorado, at the intersection of U.S. 40 and Harpers Corner Drive. This visitor center offers a short slide program; hours are daily 9am to 4pm in summer (closed in winter). The center is closed for federal holidays.

Several other monument entrances exist, all without visitor centers: At the far eastern edge of the monument off U.S. 40, an entry road leads to Deerlodge Park (open in summer only); at the northern tip, off Colo. 318, a road goes to the Gates of Lodore; just inside the Utah border at Jones Hole Fish Hatchery, a road leads into the park via the Jones Hole Road from Vernal; and at the Rainbow Park section, you’ll find a park entry road off Island Park Road (impassable when wet) from the monument’s western edge.

Information Contact Dinosaur National Monument, 4545 E. U.S. 40, Dinosaur, CO 81610-9724 ( 435/781-7700 or 970/374-3000; www.nps.gov/dino). In addition, the nonprofit Intermountain Natural History Association, 1291 E. U.S. 40, Vernal, UT 84078 ( 800/845-3466; www.inhaweb.com), offers numerous publications, maps, posters, and videos on the park and its geology, wildlife, history, and dinosaurs. Information on area lodging, dining, and recreational facilities can be obtained from the Dinosaurland Travel Board.

Fees, Backcountry Permits, Regulations & Safety The entry fee, charged only at the main Utah entrance, is $10 per vehicle or $5 per person for those on foot, motorcycle, or bicycle, for up to 1 week. Camping fees are additional (free–$12 a night); backcountry overnight camping permits, although free, are required and available from park rangers.

Regulations forbid damaging or taking anything, particularly fossils and other natural, historical, and archaeological items. Off-road driving is not permitted. Dogs must be leashed at all times. Pets are not allowed in buildings, on trails, more than 100 feet from developed roads, or on river trips.

Rangers warn that the rivers are not safe for swimming or wading; the water is icy cold, and the current is stronger than it appears.

Seasons/Avoiding the Crowds Summer is the busiest and hottest time of the year at Dinosaur National Monument, with daytime temperatures often soaring into the upper 90s (30s Celsius). Winters are a lot quieter but can be cold, with fog, snow, and temperatures below zero (–18°C). The best times to visit are spring, although you should be prepared for rain showers, and fall—perhaps the very best time—when the cottonwood trees turn a brilliant gold.

Ranger Programs Rangers present a variety of activities in summer, including evening campfire programs; check the schedules posted at either visitor center.

Seeing the Highlights

Those with only a short amount of time should make their first stop the shiny new Quarry Exhibit Hall, accessible via shuttles departing from the (likewise new) Quarry Visitor Center. This is the only place in the monument where you can see dinosaur bones. This area is believed to be one of the world’s most concentrated and accessible deposits of the fossilized remains of dinosaurs, crocodiles, turtles, and clams. The exhibit hall’s fossil wall—which looks like a long slab of frozen pudding with bones sticking out of it—contains some 1,500 fossils. Models show what paleontologists believe these dinosaurs looked like when they still had their skin, and other exhibits detail life in the Jurassic.

After spending about an hour in the quarry area, drive the Tour of the Tilted Rocks, which takes an hour or two. Then, if time remains, or if you’re heading east into Colorado anyway, take another few hours to drive the scenic Harpers Corner Drive (see the next section for descriptions of both drives).

Exploring by Car

Drives in both the Utah and Colorado sections of the park allow motorists to see spectacular scenery in relative solitude. Brochures for each of the following drives are available at the visitor centers.

From the quarry area on the Utah side of the park, the Tour of the Tilted Rocks along Cub Creek Road is a 26-mile round-trip drive that’s suitable for most passenger cars. This route takes you to 1,000-year-old rock art left by the Fremont people, a pioneer homestead, and views of nearby mountains and the Green River. Watch for prairie dogs both alongside and on the road. Although mostly paved, the last 2 miles of the road are dirt and narrow, and may be dusty or muddy. Allow 1 to 2 hours.

For the best scenic views, drive to Colorado and take the Harpers Corner Drive. This paved, 62-mile round-trip has several overlooks offering panoramic views into the gorges carved by the Yampa and Green rivers, a look at the derby-shaped Plug Hat Butte, and close-ups of a variety of other colorful rock formations. The drive also provides access to the easy .25-mile round-trip Plug Hat Nature Trail and the moderately difficult 2-mile round-trip Harpers Corner Trail. Allow about 2 hours for the drive, more if you plan to do some hiking.

Outdoor Pursuits

Boating To many people, the best way to see this beautiful, rugged country is from the river, where you can admire the scenery while crashing through thrilling white water and floating over smooth, silent stretches. About a dozen outfitters are authorized to run the Yampa and Green rivers ★ through the monument, offering trips ranging from 1 to 5 days, usually from mid-May to mid-September. Among companies providing river trips are Hatch River Expeditions ( 800/342-8243 or 435/789-4316; www.donhatchrivertrips.com) and Dinosaur River Expeditions ( 800/345-7238 or 435/781-0717; www.dinoadv.com). Prices start at about $80 for a 1-day trip. A complete list of authorized river-running companies is available from monument headquarters (see “Information,” under “Essentials,” ).

Fishing The catch is mostly catfish in the Green and Yampa rivers, although there are also some trout. Several endangered species of fish—including the razorback sucker and humpback chub—must be returned unharmed to the water if caught. Either a Utah or Colorado fishing license (or both) is required, depending on where you plan to fish.

Hiking Because most visitors spend their time at the quarry and along the scenic drives, hikers willing to exert a little effort can discover spectacular and dramatic views of the colorful canyons while enjoying an isolated and quiet wilderness experience. The best times for hiking are spring and fall, but even then, hikers should carry at least a gallon of water per person, per day.

In addition to several developed trails, experienced backcountry hikers with the appropriate maps can explore miles of unspoiled canyons and rock benches. Ask rangers about the numerous possibilities.

In the Utah section of the park, you can search out extreme solitude along the Sound of Silence Trail, a moderate-to-difficult 3-mile hike that leaves Cub Creek Road about 2 miles east of the Dinosaur Quarry. This trail is designed to help you learn how to find your own way in the desert, and is not always easy to follow.

The Desert Voices Nature Trail, a self-guided nature trail near the quarry, offers sweeping panoramic views and a section with signs created by kids for kids. This 1.5-mile (round-trip) hike is moderately difficult.

Visitors to the Colorado side of the park enjoy the Cold Desert Trail, which begins at the headquarters’ visitor center. This easy .5-mile round-trip trail offers a good introduction to the natural history of this arid environment.

Panoramic vistas await visitors on the Plug Hat Nature Trail, an easy .25-mile round-trip hike that introduces you to the interactions between plants and animals in the piñon juniper forest. It’s located along the Harpers Corner Scenic Drive.

The very popular Harpers Corner Trail ★ begins at the end of the Harpers Corner Scenic Drive. This 2-mile round-trip hike is moderately difficult but highly recommended for a magnificent view of the deep river canyons.

Camping

The Green River Campground, 5 miles east of the Dinosaur Quarry within park boundaries, has 80 RV and tent sites, modern restrooms, drinking water, tables, and fireplaces, but no showers or RV hookups. Park rangers often give campfire talks. Cost is $12 per night; it’s open mid-April into October and reservations are not available.

Several smaller campgrounds with limited facilities are also available in the monument, with fees ranging from nothing to $8; check with the visitor centers.

Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area ★★

41 miles N of Vernal, 210 miles E of Salt Lake City

Tucked away in the far northeast corner of Utah and stretching up into Wyoming is Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area, one of the region’s most scenic areas and a wonderful place for outdoor recreation. A dam was built on the Green River for flood control, water storage, and the generation of electricity, but a wonderful side effect was the creation of a huge and gorgeous lake—some 91 miles long, with more than 300 miles of shoreline—that has become one of the prime fishing and boating destinations of the region.

Here is some of the best fishing in the West, well over 100 miles of hiking and mountain-biking trails, and hundreds of camp and picnic sites. It’s a boater’s paradise, filled with everything from kayaks and canoes to ski and fishing boats to pontoons to gigantic houseboats with everything on board (including the kitchen sink).

Named by Major John Wesley Powell during his exploration of the Green and Colorado rivers in 1869, Flaming Gorge has a rugged, wild beauty that comes alive when the rising or setting sun paints the red rocks surrounding the lake in a fiery, brilliant palette. It’s a land of clear blue water, colorful rocks, tall cliffs, dark forests, hot summer sun, and cold winter wind. It’ll take more than a dam to tame Flaming Gorge.

Essentials

Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area lies in the northeast corner of Utah, crossing into the southwest corner of Wyoming. The dam and main visitor center, in the southeast section of the national recreation area, are 41 miles north of Vernal (210 miles east of Salt Lake City via U.S. 40).

Getting There From Vernal and other points south, take U.S. 191 north to its intersection with Utah 44 at the southern edge of the reservoir. U.S. 191 goes up the east side of the reservoir, leading to the dam and the community of Dutch John; Utah 44 goes around the reservoir on the west side, eventually ending at the village of Manila. Both of these towns offer accommodations, restaurants, fuel, and other services.

From I-80 in Wyoming, follow U.S. 191 south around the reservoir’s east side to the dam; or Wyo. 530 and Utah highways 43 and 44 to Manila and the west and south sides of the reservoir.

Information/Visitor Center The recreation area is administered by the Ashley National Forest. For information, contact the Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area, P.O. Box 279, Manila, UT 84046 ( 435/784-3445; www.fs.usda.gov/r4/ashley). The Intermountain Natural History Association, 1291 E. U.S. 40, Vernal, UT 84078 ( 800/845-3466; www.inhaweb.com), sells maps, books, and other publications.

The Flaming Gorge Dam Visitor Center ( 435/885-3135), along U.S. 191 on the east side of the recreation area, is open daily 8am to 6pm in summer, 9am to 5pm spring and fall, and is open weekends only November through March. You can get information on the geology, history, flora, and fauna of the area; the construction of the dam; and facilities and recreation possibilities. Free dam tours lasting 45 minutes to an hour are conducted from 9am to 3pm in summer only.

Fees & Regulations Entry to the recreation area is $5 for 1 day or $15 for up to 7 days. Administered by the U.S. Forest Service, regulations here are based mostly on common sense, and are aimed at preserving water quality and protecting the forest and historic sites. Utah and Wyoming fishing and boating regulations apply in those states’ sections of the recreation area, and the appropriate fishing licenses are required. Dogs are allowed on hiking trails but are not permitted in buildings and should be leashed at all times.

Seasons/Avoiding the Crowds As one would expect, summer is the busy season at this major boating destination, when both the air and water are at their warmest. This is the best time to come for watersports, and with elevations from 5,600 to over 8,000 feet, it never gets as hot here as it does in many other parts of Utah. Although summer is the busiest time of year, this remains a relatively undiscovered destination, and you will likely have no trouble finding campsites, lodging, or boat rentals. Hikers will enjoy the area in fall. During the cold, snowy winter, this is a popular snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, and ice-fishing destination.

Exploring Flaming Gorge by Car

Numerous viewpoints are situated along U.S. 191 and Utah 44 in the Utah section of Flaming Gorge; especially dramatic is the Red Canyon Overlook on the southern edge, where a rainbow of colors adorns 1,000-foot-tall cliffs. Another great overlook is Dowd Mountain. In Wyoming, highways are farther from the lake, offering few opportunities to see the river and its canyons.

Sheep Creek Canyon, south of Manila on the western side, has been designated a special geological area by the Forest Service because of its dramatically twisted and upturned rocks. A mostly paved 11-mile loop road cuts off from Utah 44, offering a half-hour tour of this beautiful, narrow canyon, with its lavish display of rocks that have eroded into intricate patterns, a process that began with the uplifting of the Uinta Mountains millions of years ago. This loop may be closed in winter; check at the visitor center before heading out.

Outdoor Pursuits

Biking A number of mountain-biking trails provide splendid views of the recreation area’s scenery, especially in the Utah section. Bikes are permitted in most of Flaming Gorge and adjacent Ashley National Forest, except in the High Uintas Wilderness, where all wheeled vehicles are prohibited. Bikes are also restricted from Memorial Day to Labor Day on a section of the Little Hole National Recreation Trail along the Green River below the dam, due to very heavy use by anglers and hikers. Keep in mind that mountain bikers here often share trails with hikers, horses, and four-wheelers. A free mountain-biking brochure is available at visitor centers.

For a scenic and fairly easy ride, try the 5-mile one-way Red Canyon Rim Trail. This single track follows the south rim of the canyon, providing terrific views of the lake 1,700 feet below. Deer and elk are frequently seen in the forested areas. Watch also for interpretive signs on area wildlife and the ecosystem. Trail heads and parking are located at Red Canyon Visitor Center, Red Canyon Lodge, and Greendale Overlook.

Death Valley Trail, a moderately difficult 15-mile round-trip ride, offers good views of the Uinta Mountains and ends with a fine view of the lake from the top of Sheep Creek Hill. The trail head is located along Utah 44, south of Manila, at milepost 16.5.

Rentals of full-suspension mountain bikes are available at Red Canyon Lodge, in Dutch John ( 435/889-3759; www.redcanyonlodge.com), at rates of $10 for 1 hour, $20 for a half-day, and $35 for a full day. The lodge also sponsors a mountain-bike festival each year in August. In Vernal, head to Altitude Cycle, 580 E. Main St. ( 435/781-2295; www.altitudecycle.com), for gear, service, and advice.

Impressions

The river enters the range by a flaring, brilliant red gorge, that may be seen from the north a score of miles away . . . We name it Flaming Gorge.

—Explorer Major John Wesley Powell, May 26, 1869

Boating & Houseboating Boaters get to enjoy a unique perspective of some memorable scenery, with magnificent fiery red canyons surrounding the lake in the Utah section, and the wide-open Wyoming badlands farther north.

Three marinas on Lake Flaming Gorge provide boat rentals, fuel, launching ramps, and boating and fishing supplies. Cedar Springs Marina ( 435/889-3795; www.cedarspringsmarina.com) is located 2 miles west of Flaming Gorge Dam; Lucerne Valley Marina ( 435/784-3483; www.flaminggorge.com) is on the west side of the lake, 7 miles east of Manila; and Buckboard Marina ( 307/875-6927; www.buckboardmarina.com) is also on the west side of the lake, off Wyo. 530, 22 miles north of Manila.

Nine boat ramps serve those who bring their own craft; boat and water-ski rentals are available at all three marinas. Although types of boats and costs vary, a 14-foot fishing boat with a small outboard motor usually costs about $130 per day, a 17- or 18-foot ski boat with a powerful outboard motor costs about $250 to $350 per day, and a 24-foot pontoon boat with a 50-horsepower outboard motor will cost about $225 to $250 per day. Partial-day rentals are also available. At Lucerne Valley Marina, a 36-foot houseboat costs about $1,000 for 3 nights during the summer, with discounts in spring and fall; a 52-footer is also available for about $2,000 for 3 nights in the summer. For all boat rentals, life jackets are included but fuel is extra.

Nonmotorized boating is permitted on a 20-acre private lake at Red Canyon Lodge, where you can rent canoes, rowboats, and paddle boats. Rates start at $10 an hour and range up to $50 for a day.

Dinosaur River Expeditions ( 800/345-7238 or 435/781-0717; www.dinoadv.com), in Vernal, offers a 1-day raft trip for $75 for adults and $54 for kids 7 to 12.

Fishing You might want to bring along a muscular friend if you plan to fish Lake Flaming Gorge, which is famous as a place to catch record-breaking trout, such as the 51-pound, 8-ounce lake (Mackinaw) trout caught in 1988; the 26-pound, 2-ounce rainbow caught in 1979; and the 33-pound, 10-ounce German brown caught in 1977. You’ll encounter other cold-water species such as smallmouth bass and kokanee salmon. Fishing is popular year-round, although ice-fishermen are warned to make sure the ice is strong enough to hold them.

Cedar Springs and Lucerne Valley marinas (see “Boating & Houseboating,” above) offer a variety of fishing guide services. Typical rates for one or two people in a guided trip aboard a sportfishing boat are $300 for a half-day, including fishing gear but not fishing licenses. Also providing guided fishing trips, in a 28-foot sportfishing boat with state-of-the-art fish-finding and GPS equipment, is Kyle Edwards of Conquest Expeditions ★★ ( 801/244-9948; www.conquestexpeditions.com). Rates for a 4-hour fishing trip, with all equipment (but not fishing licenses), are $275 for one or two people and $425 for three or four people. Rates for an 8-hour fishing trip are $550 for one or two people, $650 for three or four.

Trout fishing on the Green River below the dam is also outstanding. Flaming Gorge Recreation Services, based in Dutch John ( 435/885-3191; www.fglodge.com), offers guided fishing trips for one or two people, with rates of $350 for a half-day float trip, $425 for a full day. A complete list of guides is available at the Flaming Gorge Dam Visitor Center.

Two private stocked lakes are also at Red Canyon Lodge, one with a fully accessible fishing pier, and both open to catch-and-release fishing only. No state fishing license is needed, but a Red Canyon Lodge permit is required (free for guests, $5 for nonguests). A free kids’ fishing pond is in front of the lodge’s restaurant.

Wildlife in Abundance

Flaming Gorge is one of the best places in Utah to see a wide variety of wildlife. Boaters should watch for osprey, peregrine falcons, swifts, and swallows along the cliffs. Bighorn sheep are sometimes spotted clambering on the rocky cliffs on the north side of the lake in spring and early summer. On land, be on the lookout for pronghorn antelope year-round along the west side of the lake, particularly in Lucerne Valley and in the campground. Hikers on the Little Hole National Recreation Trail should keep their eyes peeled for a variety of birds, including bald eagles in winter.

Hiking Many of the trails here offer spectacular scenic views of the reservoir and its colorful canyons. Remember, though, that in most cases the trail is shared with mountain bikers and in some cases horses and four-wheel-drive vehicles as well.

The Red Canyon Rim Trail runs 5 miles (one-way) from the Red Canyon Visitor Center to the Greendale Rest Area, accessible from either of those points or at Green’s Lake or Canyon Rim campgrounds. The trail wanders through a forest of Douglas fir and pine, with stops along the canyon rim providing outstanding views of the lake far below (see also “Biking,” above).

For an easy 3-mile round-trip hike to an overlook offering a fine view of the lake, try the Bear Canyon Bootleg Trail, which starts just off U.S. 191 opposite Firefighters Memorial Campground, 3 miles south of the dam.

One trail popular with hikers is the Little Hole National Recreation Trail, which runs about 7 miles from the dam spillway downstream to Little Hole, with its fishing platforms and picnic areas. The trail is easy to moderate and offers splendid vistas of the Green River, which appears to be a mere ribbon of emerald when seen from the cliffs above. This is a good trail for birders, who may spot osprey in summer and bald eagles in winter.

Hikers can also use the mountain-biking trails listed above. A free hiking-trails brochure is available at the visitor centers.

Horseback Riding Many of the more than 100 miles of trails in Flaming Gorge are open to riders. Guided rides are available from Red Canyon Stables at Red Canyon Lodge, with prices starting at about $20 for a 1-hour ride and $70 for a half-day. Children must be at least 6 years old to go on rides.

Swimming Sometimes you’ve just got to dive right in, even though the water is pretty cold. Lake Flaming Gorge has two designated swimming areas: Sunny Cove, just north of the dam, and Lucerne Beach, a mile west of Lucerne Campground. Neither has a lifeguard.

Winter Sports Ice-fishing is popular, but check with rangers first for ice conditions. Also popular from mid-January until the snow melts are cross-country skiing, snowshoeing (an excellent way to see wildlife), and snowmobiling. At Red Canyon Lodge, you can rent snowshoes for $5 per hour, $10 per half-day, or $15 per day (poles are $2 extra), and Flaming Gorge Resort rents cross-country ski packages in winter. for the lodges’ contact information.

Man-Made Attractions

Flaming Gorge Dam & Power Plant

Completed in 1963 at a cost of $50 million for the dam and another $65 million for the power plant, Flaming Gorge is part of the Colorado River Storage Project, which also includes Glen Canyon Dam on the Colorado River along the Arizona-Utah border, Navajo Dam on the San Juan River in New Mexico, and a series of three dams on the Gunnison River in Colorado. At full capacity, the lake is 91 miles long and holds almost 4 million acre-feet of water. The dam, constructed in an arch shape for strength, is 1,285 feet long and stands some 450 feet tall; its three turbine generators can produce 152,000 kilowatts of electricity, enough to take care of the needs of 210,000 people.

The dam and power plant are open for free guided tours 9am to 4pm daily from mid-March to mid-October. The total round-trip walking distance is just under half a mile. Check at the visitor center for the hours and times of the hour-long guided tours. You’ll walk along the crest of the dam, and then take an elevator ride to the power plant below, where you get to see the inner workings of the hydroelectric plant, with its huge transformers, generators, and turbines.

Swett Ranch Historic Site

This homestead, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, was constructed by Oscar Swett starting in 1909, and contains two cabins, a five-room house, a meat house, a root cellar, sheds, a granary, and a barn, built and improved upon over a period of 58 years. Swett and his wife, Emma, raised nine children here, running the 397-acre ranch using only horse and human muscle power, before selling the property in 1968. From Utah 44, take U.S. 191 north for a half-mile and turn west (left) onto Forest Road 158, which you follow 1 1/2 miles to the ranch. The unpaved Forest Road is muddy when wet and not recommended for large RVs or trailers at any time. The ranch is open daily 10am to 5pm from Memorial Day to Labor Day; guided tours are available. Admission is free. Allow about an hour.

Where to Stay

In addition to the lodging suggestions below, see the “Where to Stay” section in “Vernal: Gateway to Dinosaur National Monument,” earlier in this chapter.

Flaming Gorge Resort A location close to everything you’ll want to do makes this well-maintained property a good choice for those seeking a modern motel room or a one-bedroom condominium. Motel rooms come with two queen-size beds and an optional rollaway; condo units contain one queen bed, a single, and a hide-a-bed, plus a fully equipped kitchen. There is also a “trailer suite” and a four-bedroom suite for those needing a little more room. Facilities include a restaurant that serves three meals daily, a gas station, a liquor and convenience store, and a fly and tackle shop. Guided fishing and rafting trips on the Green River are available, and the lodge offers nonmotorized watercraft rentals and mountain-bike rentals in the summer.

155 Greendale, U.S. 191 (4 miles south of Flaming Gorge Dam), Dutch John, UT 84023-9702. www.flaminggorgeresort.com. 877/348-7688 or 435/889-3773. Fax 435/889-3788. 48 units, including 27 suites. Apr–Oct $119–$159 double, $159–$249 condo or suite; Nov–Mar $99–$129 double, $129–$219 condo or suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bike rentals. In room: A/C, TV/DVD/VCR, kitchen in condos, Wi-Fi (free).

Red Canyon Lodge ★ Open since 1930, this secluded cabin resort offers a variety of delightful handcrafted log cabins. All have private bathrooms, two queen-size beds, a separate living room, minifridges, limited cooking facilities, vaulted ceilings, and covered porches. Some also have free-standing woodstoves (firewood provided), kitchenettes, and custom wood furniture. Lower-priced units have showers only; the more expensive rooms have tub/shower combos. The lodge offers two private lakes plus a kids’ fishing pond, boat and mountain-bike rentals, hiking and mountain-biking trails, horseback rides, a restaurant, and a gift shop.

2450 W. Red Canyon Lodge (turn off Utah 44 at milepost 3.5), Dutch John, UT 84023. www.redcanyonlodge.com. 435/889-3759. Fax 435/889-5106. 18 units. $110–$140 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. Dogs allowed (free). Amenities: Restaurant (see review below); bike rentals; Wi-Fi (free). In room: Fridge, hair dryer, kitchenette (in some), no phone.

Camping

U.S. Forest Service campgrounds are located throughout Flaming Gorge Recreation Area and range from primitive sites to modern facilities with showers (open in summer only) and flush toilets, but no RV hookups. Some are open year-round, others in summer only. Most sites cost $10 to $20. The more developed (and expensive) sites, including a favorite campground, Deer Run, include use of the showers (those camping in the cheap spots have to pay for a shower—bring quarters). Campsite reservations are available through the National Recreation Reservation Service ( 877/444-6777; www.recreation.gov). Dispersed forest camping (with no facilities) is free; check with forest service personnel for suggested locations. RV dump stations are located in several locations in the recreation area (check at the visitor center).

Commercial campgrounds with full RV hookups are located in Vernal (see section 1, earlier in this chapter). A KOA campground ( 800/562-3254 or 435/784-3184; www.utahidahokoa.com), located in Manila, is open from mid-April through mid-October, and charges about $22 to $27 for tent sites and $32 to $37 for RV sites. It also has cabins at $45 to $65 per night double.

Where to Eat

Red Canyon Lodge Dining Room AMERICAN For locals and visitors alike, this is a popular spot—especially the patio on nice summer days. The dining room maintains a classic mountain-lodge atmosphere, along with views of tall pines and a small lake. Top choices here include the buffalo rib-eye and the elk medallions with black cherry–burgundy sauce. The menu also features pastas, salads, steaks, chicken (try the mildly spicy Szechuan chicken pasta), fish, and slow-roasted prime rib. Nightly fine-dining specials include a broiled salmon filet with hollandaise sauce. You’ll also find standard American breakfasts, and burgers and sandwiches at lunch. Full liquor service is available.

In Red Canyon Lodge (see above), 2450 W. Red Canyon Lodge (turn off Utah 44 at milepost 3.5), Dutch John. 435/889-3759. Reservations accepted for large parties only. Main courses $4–$10 breakfast and lunch, $8–$25 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Apr to mid-Oct daily 8am–9pm; mid-Oct to Mar Fri 4–9pm, Sat 8am–9pm, Sun 8am–4pm.