Chapter 9: Utah’s Dixie & the Colorful Southwest Corner

Small lakes and big rocks, golf courses and ski areas, Shakespeare and the latest special effects—you’ll find it all in the southwest corner of Utah, dubbed “Color Country” by the locals for its numerous and colorful rock formations. In addition to the attractions, another reason to visit is the warm winter weather: The region’s largest city, St. George, and its immediate surroundings are known as “Utah’s Dixie” for the mild climate as well as the area’s previous life as a Civil War–era cotton-growing region. Color Country is a terrific winter playground; there’s no need to ever put away the golf clubs or swimsuits in this neighborhood.

The range of elevations here means you can often lounge around the pool in the morning and build a snowman that same afternoon. From the scorching desert at St. George, it’s only 74 miles—and almost 7,500 feet up—to the cool mountain forest at Cedar Breaks National Monument. Home to a variety of scenic and recreation areas (including a ski resort), a surprising number of historic attractions, and excellent performing arts events (such as the Utah Shakespearean Festival in Cedar City), this region also serves as the gateway to several of the area’s spectacular national parks.

Here, you can step back more than a hundred years at Mormon leader Brigham Young’s winter home or cheer on the Dixie State College Red Storm football team. Of course, the favorite stops are all outdoors: the rugged red-rock cliffs at Snow Canyon State Park, the ruddy sands of Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park, and the panoramic views from Cedar Breaks National Monument. This area is also a good base for those visiting the area’s national parks, including Grand Canyon (pick up a copy of Frommer’s Grand Canyon [Wiley Publishing, Inc.]), Great Basin, and Zion (see chapter 10).

In recent years, St. George has been booming, with Washington County’s population jumping over 50% from 2000 to 2010; it’s now home to about 140,000 people. More than a few Californians have retired here after falling in love with the climate—and the real estate prices. But the growth hasn’t changed everything: The space is still wide open, the winters still mild, and the surroundings still starkly beautiful.

Getting Outdoors in Utah’s Color Country

The Southwest Corner

This is Utah’s playground, a year-round mecca for hikers, mountain bikers, golfers, boaters, anglers, and anybody else who just wants to get outdoors. Among the top spots for experiencing nature at its best are Cedar Breaks National Monument, a high-mountain oasis of towering pines and firs, with wildflowers galore, and state parks such as Snow Canyon, Coral Pink Sand Dunes, and Quail Creek.

The best seasons for outdoor activities here are based on elevation. In St. George and other lowlands, spring and fall are best, winter’s okay, and summer is worst, because temperatures soar well over 100°F (38°C). However, not everyone says no to St. George in summer: Its desert climate makes it the golfing capital of Utah. The Sunbrook is considered one of the state’s best courses, with a challenging layout and spectacular views of the White Hills, but you can stay a week in St. George and play a different course each day. On the other side of the seasonal coin, don’t try to drive up the mountains to Cedar Breaks until June at the earliest or mid-October at the latest; the roads will be closed by snow.

A good way to see this part of Utah is on foot. Hiking trails abound throughout the Dixie and Fishlake national forests north of St. George. Several of the best trails are in state parks, particularly Snow Canyon State Park near St. George, and in the nearby national parks.

Biking here generally means mountain biking. Even when riding in the city, you never know when you’re going to discover a great little trail turning off into the red-rock desert or up into alpine meadows. The best mountain biking is at Brian Head Resort. Both road and mountain bikes can take you to beautiful areas in and around Snow Canyon State Park near St. George.

For an area with so much desert, there’s a lot of boating here: Utahns have created reservoirs to provide the desert and its residents with drinking and irrigation water. The best boating is at Quail Creek State Park near St. George; for a bit more solitude try the relatively undeveloped Gunlock State Park, also near St. George, or Minersville State Park, west of Beaver. The top fishing hole in these parts is Quail Creek State Park, but there are plenty of smaller lakes and hidden streams in the national forests.

Off-road vehicles can simply be a means to get to an isolated fishing stream or hiking trail, or the adventure itself. The old mining and logging roads in the national forests are great for four-wheel exploring. Visitors with dune buggies will want to challenge the shifting dunes at Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park, just outside Kanab.

An abundance of wildlife makes its home in this part of the state. Sure, you’ll encounter deer, squirrels, chipmunks, and other furry creatures at Cedar Breaks National Monument and the area’s national parks, but there’s also animal life in the desert, including everyone’s favorites: the luminescent scorpions at Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park and the Gila monster at Snow Canyon State Park, also home to numerous songbirds.

It may be hot down in the desert, but plenty of snow is perched up on those mountaintops, and the skiing is great at Brian Head Resort and newly reopened Eagle Point. In winter, cross-country skiers and snowshoers will want to head to nearby Cedar Breaks National Monument after the snow closes the roads to cars.

St. George: Gateway to the Wonders of the South

120 miles NE of Las Vegas, Nevada; 305 miles SW of Salt Lake City

In the fall of 1861, Brigham Young sent 309 families to establish a cotton-growing community in the semiarid Virgin River Valley. Today, St. George has more than 70,000 inhabitants. Life in St. George, known as one of Utah’s more conservative communities, is still strongly influenced by the Mormon church. At an elevation of 2,800 feet, the town is also a winter home to many snowbirds—not the feathered variety, but humans who annually flee the cold of more northern climes for this region’s gentle winters. Despite the climate, this desert city appears quite green, with tree-lined streets and lovely grassy areas. St. George also has more than a half-dozen golf courses, along with recreational and cultural facilities to suit most every taste.

St. George is also the gateway to some of the most spectacular scenery in the West. Zion, Bryce, and Grand Canyon national parks are within relatively easy driving distance, as are Cedar Breaks and Pipe Springs national monuments and Snow Canyon, Gunlock, and Quail Creek state parks. Depending on your itinerary, St. George may be the largest town that you stop in en route to Lake Powell and Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Capitol Reef National Park, and the prehistoric Indian sites in the Four Corners area.

Essentials

Getting There The closest major airport is McCarran International Airport, in Las Vegas, Nevada ( 702/261-5211; www.mccarran.com). Most major airlines fly into McCarran, where you can rent a car from most major car-rental companies and drive the 120 miles northeast on I-15 to St. George.

The St. George Shuttle ( 800/933-8320 or 435/628-8320; www.stgshuttle.com) provides daily van service to and from the Las Vegas airport ($30 each way or $50 round-trip), and also offers transportation between St. George and Salt Lake City ($55 one-way, $100 round-trip; reservations are required).

The new-in-2011 St. George Municipal Airport, 4550 S. Airport Pkwy., south of the city ( 435/627-4080; www.sgcity.org/airport), is served by United to Los Angeles and Delta to Salt Lake City. Both routes are operated by SkyWest Airlines. Airline websites are listed in chapter 16.

St. George is on I-15. Take exit 2 (Airport Pkwy.).

St. George & Environs

Visitor Information Before your trip, contact the St. George Area Chamber of Commerce ( 435/628-1658; www.stgeorgechamber.com) for a visitor’s guide. When you get into town, stop in at the information center operated by the chamber in the historic Pioneer Courthouse, 97 E. St. George Blvd. It’s open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm.

For information on the state and national parks in the area, as well as Dixie National Forest and land administered by the National Park Service and the Bureau of Land Management, stop by the Interagency Office and Visitor Center, 345 E. Riverside Dr. ( 435/688-3246; www.fs.fed.us/r4; www.nps.gov; www.ut.blm.gov). This is a good place to ask questions about the area’s public lands, get trail recommendations, and pick up backcountry permits for the Grand Canyon. A variety of free brochures are available, and maps, books, posters, and videos are for sale. To get there, take I-15 exit 6 and turn east. The center is open Monday through Friday 7:45am to 5pm and Saturday 10am to 3pm; it’s closed Sundays.

Getting Around The street grid system is centered on the point at which Tabernacle Street (running east-west) crosses Main Street (running north-south), with numbered streets increasing in each direction by hundreds. St. George Boulevard takes the place of 100 North, Bluff Street runs along a bluff at the western edge of the city, I-15 cuts through in a northeast direction (from exit 6 at the south end of Bluff St. to exit 8 at the east end of St. George Blvd.), and River Road lies at the eastern edge, becoming Red Cliffs Road north of St. George Boulevard. Other than that, the system stays true to the grid.

Car-rental agencies with offices in St. George include Avis ( 435/627-2002; www.avis.com), Budget ( 435/673-6825; www.budget.com), and Hertz ( 435/652-9941; www.hertz.com), all at St. George Municipal Airport, and Enterprise, 289 E. St. George Blvd. ( 435/634-1556; www.enterprise.com).

Free on-street parking is available in much of the city, and many streets are tree-lined and shady.

For a taxi, call AAA Quality Cab ( 435/656-5222) or Taxi USA ( 435/656-1500).

Fast Facts One of the larger hospitals in this part of the state is Dixie Regional Medical Center, 1380 E. Medical Center Dr. ( 435/251-1000; www.intermountainhealthcare.org), which provides 24-hour emergency care. The post office is located at 180 N. Main St. ( 800/275-8777 for hours and other information; www.usps.com). The regional newspaper is the Spectrum (www.thespectrum.com).

What to See & Do

Most visitors head to St. George for rest and relaxation at the spas, golf courses, and area parks, but there’s also a good deal of history in these parts, not to mention prehistory: The St. George Dinosaur Discovery Site at Johnson Farm, 2180 E. Riverside Dr. ( 435/574-3466; www.dinotrax.com), showcases 2,000 fossilized tracks left by dinosaurs of all kinds when the area sat on the edge of a vast lake. It’s open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 6pm; admission is $6 adults, $3 kids, and those 3 and under are free. In Kayenta, outside Ivins north of St. George, is the Desert Rose Labyrinth and Sculpture Garden ( 435/634-0510), featuring a labyrinth made of local red rock and intriguing outdoor art. Admission is free; it is open dawn to dusk.

Discovering Mormon History In & Around St. George

Because the LDS Church was the primary driving force in the settlement of St. George, it should come as no surprise that most of the sightseeing in town is church-related. At the town’s historic buildings, staffed by knowledgeable church members, you’ll learn about the church as well as the specific sites; expect a little sales pitch on the benefits of Christianity in general and the Mormon faith in particular.

Brigham Young Winter Home Historical Site Church leader Brigham Young was one of St. George’s first snowbirds. He escaped the Salt Lake City cold during the last few winters of his life by coming south to this house. In addition to its obvious religious importance, this home is a handsome example of how the well-to-do of the late 19th century lived. Allow about a half-hour for the guided tour.

67 W. 200 North. 435/673-5181. www.stgeorgetemplevisitorscenter.org. Free guided tours. Summer daily 10am–7pm; rest of year daily 10am–5pm. Last tour at 6:30pm summer and 4:30pm winter. From I-15 exit 8, head west on St. George Blvd., turn right (north) onto Main St., and turn left (west) onto 200 North.

Daughters of Utah Pioneers Museum This museum contains an eclectic collection of items that belonged to the pioneers—including a bed used by Brigham Young, plus spinning wheels, an 1894 loom, guns, tools, musical instruments, and other relics from bygone days. Vintage photos, mostly of pioneer families, are on display, and copies are available for purchase. Guided tours are given by volunteers from the Daughters of Utah Pioneers. Allow at least a half-hour.

145 N. 100 East. 435/628-7274. www.dupstgeorge.org. Free admission; donations accepted. Fall and spring Mon–Tues and Thurs–Sat 10am–5pm; shorter hours rest of year. Closed Wed, Sun, and all of Dec. From I-15 exit 8, head west on St. George Blvd. and turn right (north) at 100 East.

Jacob Hamblin Home ★ This stone-and-pine house, built in 1862, is closer to what you’d think of as a pioneer home than most of the refined houses of St. George, and it’s typical of pioneer homes throughout the West—except for one aspect that is definitively Mormon: It has two identical bedrooms, one for each of Hamblin’s wives. Note also that the dining table is set in typical Mormon fashion, with plates upside down and chairs facing away from the table to facilitate kneeling for before-meal prayers. The guided tour lasts about a half-hour.

3325 Hamblin Dr., Santa Clara. 435/673-5181. www.stgeorgetemplevisitorscenter.org. Free guided tours. Summer daily 10am–7pm; rest of year daily 10am–5pm. Last tour at 6:30pm summer and 4:30pm winter. From St. George, go 3 miles west on Sunset Blvd. to the community of Santa Clara; watch for sign.

Pine Valley Chapel This handsome white chapel was built in 1868 by Ebenezer Bryce (for whom Bryce Canyon National Park was named) and Lorenzo and Erastus Snow (for whom Snow Canyon State Park was named). The settlers of the Pine Valley logging and saw-milling community wanted to build a church that would also function as a school and community building. Bryce was approached to design it, and because of his experience as a shipbuilder, he laid out the structure as an upside-down boat. Each of the walls was constructed flat on the ground, then lifted up and tied at the corners with strips of rawhide. The chapel was constructed of local pine and ponderosa and set on a foundation of granite and red limestone. Today it is the oldest LDS chapel in continuous use.

50 W. Main St., Pine Valley. 435/574-3202. www.lds.org. Free guided tours. Memorial Day to Labor Day daily 11am–5pm. Closed rest of year. From St. George, go north on Utah 18 to Central and head east on Forest Rd. 035.

St. George Tabernacle ★ This is the most beautiful building in St. George—an excellent example of fine old-world craftsmanship, from the hand-quarried red stone walls to the intricate interior woodwork. Its craftsmen finished pine, which was all they had, to look like exotic hardwoods and even marble. Completed in 1876 after 13 years of work, the Tabernacle served as a house of worship and town meeting hall. During the 1880s, when a nearby silver strike brought many Catholics to the area, the Tabernacle was used for a Roman Catholic High Mass led by a Roman Catholic priest, but with music from the liturgy sung by the local Mormon choir—in Latin. Today, the Tabernacle functions as a community center, presenting free weekly concerts and other cultural events (see “St. George After Dark,” later in this chapter). The guided tour takes about half an hour.

18 S. Main St. at Tabernacle St. 435/673-5181. www.stgeorgetemplevisitorscenter.org. Free guided tours. Daily 10am–5pm. Last tour at 4:30pm. From I-15 exit 8, head west on St. George Blvd. and turn left at Main St.

St. George Temple Completed in 1877, St. George Temple was the first Mormon temple in Utah, and is the world’s oldest still in use today. The majestic white temple is not open to the general public, but you can walk among the beautiful gardens and stop at the visitor center south of the temple for a tour of the center’s exhibits and a multimedia program on the beliefs of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.

490 S. 300 East. 435/673-5181. www.stgeorgetemplevisitorscenter.org. Temple not open to the public; free guided tours of visitor center exhibits. Daily 9am–9pm. From I-15 exit 8, head west on St. George Blvd. to 200 East, turn left (south) and go about 6 blocks.

Snow Canyon State Park ★★★

Among Utah’s most scenic state parks, Snow Canyon offers an abundance of opportunities for photography and hiking. The park is surrounded by rock cliffs and walls of Navajo sandstone in shades of red, layered with white and black from ancient lava flows. Hike the trails and discover shifting sand dunes, mysterious lava caves, colorful desert plants, and a variety of rock formations. You can also hike to an attractive cactus garden and several ancient petroglyphs (ask park rangers for directions).

Because the summers here are hot—well over 100°F (38°C)—the best time to visit is any other time. Winters are mild, but nights can be chilly. Spring and fall are usually perfect weather-wise, and therefore the busiest. By the way, don’t come looking for snow—Snow Canyon was named for pioneers Lorenzo and Erastus Snow, who discovered the canyon.

Essentials

Getting There The park is 11 miles northwest of St. George, off Utah 18.

Information, Fees & Regulations For a copy of the park’s brochure, contact Snow Canyon State Park, 1002 Snow Canyon Dr., Ivins, UT 84738 ( 435/628-2255; www.stateparks.utah.gov). Day-use fee is $6. As in most state parks, dogs are welcome, even on trails, but must be leashed. The park is open from 6am to 10pm.

Outdoor Pursuits

Hiking The best way to see Snow Canyon is on foot. Several short trails make for easy full- or half-day hikes. The Hidden Piñon Trail ★ is a 1.5-mile round-trip self-guided nature trail that wanders among lava rocks, through several canyons, and onto rocky flatlands, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. The trail begins across the highway from the park’s campground; you can pick up a brochure at the park office/entrance station. The walk is fairly easy, but allow at least an hour, especially if you’re planning to keep an eye out for local vegetation such as Mormon tea, cliffrose, prickly pear cactus, and banana yucca.

An easy 2-mile round-trip is Johnson Canyon Trail. It begins just south of the campground, passes the popular rock-climbing wall (see below) and some low sand dunes, and then leads into Johnson Canyon and a view of Johnson Arch (both named after pioneer wife Maude Johnson), spanning 200 feet high above.

The Lava Flow Overlook Trail, a 1.5-mile round-trip, starts just north of the campground. Caves can be found for about a half-mile along the trail, but watch carefully—it’s easy to miss them. The caves were formed from liquid lava, and Native American tribes, at times, have occupied the large rooms. Another quarter-mile past the caves is the West Canyon Overlook, with a breathtaking view into West Canyon.

Several longer and steeper trails lead to spectacular views of the canyons and distant vistas; check with park rangers for details.

Mountain Biking Bicycling is only allowed on the 7-mile round-trip Whiptail Trail and the unpaved West Canyon Road. The latter 8-mile round-trip road lies just west of the park; ask park rangers for directions. You can rent bikes at Bicycles Unlimited.

Rock Climbing Climbers love the tall wall of rock on the east side of the road just south of the campground. Check with the park office for information.

Wildlife-Watching You’re likely to see cottontail rabbits, ground squirrels, and songbirds; luckier visitors may also spot desert mule deer, bobcats, coyotes, kit foxes, eagles, and owls. Although it’s unlikely, you may see a desert tortoise (a federally listed threatened species) or a Gila monster. Snow Canyon is also home to some rattlesnakes.

Camping

The 36-site campground is one of the best in the state. One section has rather closely spaced sites with electric hookups; those not needing electricity can set up camp in delightful little side canyons, surrounded by colorful red rocks and Utah juniper. The views are spectacular no matter where you choose to set up. Facilities include hot showers, modern restrooms, and an RV dump station. Campsites with water and electricity cost $20, while those without are $16. Reservations are recommended from February through May and September through November; call 800/322-3770, or visit www.stateparks.utah.gov.

More Outdoor Pursuits in the St. George Area

In addition to the outdoor opportunities that Snow Canyon State Park offers, great hiking, biking, and fishing can be enjoyed in the Dixie National Forest and on nearby lands administered by the Bureau of Land Management. For information, contact the Interagency Office.

Fishing Quail Creek and Gunlock state parks are the local fishing holes. For equipment, licenses, and tips on where they’re biting, visit Hurst Ace Hardware & Sports Center, 160 N. Bluff St. ( 435/673-6141; www.hurststores.com).

Golfing Utah’s golf capital attracts golfers from around the country to a variety of public courses, known for their challenging designs, well-maintained fairways and greens, and spectacularly scenic settings. Rates given below are for winter; summer rates are usually lower. The area’s best course, encompassing three 9-hole, par-36 courses, is the 27-hole Sunbrook Golf Course, 2366 W. Sunbrook Dr. ( 435/627-4400; www.sgcity.org/golf), tops in both design and magnificent scenery. Greens fees are $26 summer and $51 to $56 fall to spring for 18 holes, cart included. Also highly rated, and considered by many to be the area’s second-best course, is Green Spring Golf Course, 588 N. Green Spring Dr., Washington ( 435/673-7888; www.golfgreenspring.com), several miles northeast of St. George. Challenging Green Spring is an 18-hole, par-72 course, with fees of $40 to $64 for 18 holes, cart included, likewise with the lowest fees in the summer.

Other 18-hole courses include the par-73 St. George Golf Club, 2190 S. 1400 East ( 435/627-4404), and the par-70 Southgate Golf Course, 1975 S. Tonaquint Dr. ( 435/627-4440). Fees at these city-owned courses are $19 to $33 for 18 holes, cart included. The par-34, 9-hole Dixie Red Hills Golf Course, 645 W. 1200 North ( 435/627-4444), charges $13 to $21 for 9 holes.

You can play the renowned private Entrada at Snow Canyon Country Club, 2537 Entrada Trail ( 435/986-2200; www.golfentrada.com), if you stay at the Inn at Entrada (see “Where to Stay,” later in this chapter). Rates run $75 to $175 a night per person, including an 18-hole round of golf on the Johnny Miller–designed course.

A marketing cooperative dubbed the Red Rock Golf Trail ( 888/345-5551; www.redrockgolftrail.com) offers golfers a number of packages that start at about $70 per day for 18 holes and a room in an area hotel, based on double occupancy.

Hiking Some of the best hiking in the area is at Snow Canyon State Park and in the Dixie National Forest to the north, which has some 200 miles of trails. Check with forest rangers for current trail conditions and be sure to carry detailed maps on any long hikes, especially if you’re venturing into the Pine Valley Wilderness Area. Stop at the Interagency Office and Visitor Center for maps and details.

Mountain Biking & Road Biking With hundreds of miles of trails in the St. George area, mountain biking has been rapidly gaining in popularity. For information on the best mountain-biking areas, plus maps, mountain-biking trail guides, bike repairs, bike accessories, and rentals, stop at Bicycles Unlimited, 90 S. 100 East ( 888/673-4492 or 435/673-4492; www.bicyclesunlimited.com); it’s open Monday through Saturday 8am to 7pm. Top-quality road and mountain bikes rent for $55 to $74 per day; ask about multiday rates.

A popular road-biking trip is the scenic 24-mile loop from St. George through Santa Clara, Ivins, and Snow Canyon State Park. The route follows paved roads with narrow shoulders but generally little traffic. Allow 2 to 3 hours. Head north out of St. George on Bluff Street (Utah 18) and follow it to its intersection with U.S. 91. Turn west (left) and go about 6 miles to the village of Santa Clara, where you can visit the Jacob Hamblin Home. From Santa Clara, continue west about a mile before turning north (right); follow the signs to Ivins and the Tuacahn Amphitheater. At Ivins, turn east (right) onto the Snow Canyon Road, following signs for Snow Canyon State Park, where you can easily spend from several hours to several days exploring the red-rock formations, lava pools, and sand dunes. From the park, continue east to Utah 18, turn south (right), and pedal back into St. George.

Getting in Shape with The Biggest Loser

You can make your vacation count in terms of calories at the Biggest Loser Resort at Fitness Ridge, 260 S. 200 West, Ivins ( 435/673-3330; www.biggestloserresort.com). Named for the television program, the resort offers structured programs that combine indoor and outdoor activities with healthy meals. These “fitness getaways” are fairly intensive: Your day starts with a hike around 6:30am and doesn’t end until dinner at 5:45pm. In between are several cardiovascular workouts, lectures on healthy living, kickboxing, swimming, and much more. Meals top out at 1,200 calories a day and cooking demos round out the curriculum. Programs last at least a week and start around $2,000 if you stay on-site or $1,200 if you do not.

Spectator Sports

The Dixie State College Red Storm are the ones to root for in St. George. The football, women’s volleyball, women’s soccer, men’s and women’s basketball, men’s baseball, men’s golf, and women’s softball teams at this community college are often nationally ranked. You’re not likely to have any trouble getting tickets to join the 5,000 students in Hansen Stadium or Burns Arena. Tickets are available at the Athletic Department offices ( 877/546-7327 or 435/879-4295; www.dixieathletics.com).

Where to Stay

St. George has a good selection of lodgings. Most are on St. George Boulevard and Bluff Street, within easy walking distance of restaurants and attractions. Summer is the slow season here—people tend to head to the mountains when the temperature hits 115°F (46°C)—so prices are lowest then. High seasons are spring and fall. Golfers should ask about special golf packages.

Reliable chain properties in the area, almost all clustered around exits 6 and 8 off Hwy. 15, include a pair of top-notch Best Westerns: the Best Western Plus Abbey Inn, 1129 S. Bluff St. ( 888/222-3946 or 435/652-1234; www.bwabbeyinn.com), with rates of $89 to $119 double and $109 to $139 suite, and the Best Western Coral Hills, 125 E. St. George Blvd. ( 800/542-7733 or 435/673-4844; www.coralhills.com), with rates of $69 to $119 double.

Also in town near I-15 is Crystal Inn, 1450 S. Hilton Dr. ( 877/688-7177 or 435/688-7477; www.crystalinnstgeorge.com), with rates of $65 to $135 double. There are numerous inexpensive chain properties, including Motel 6, 205 N. 1000 East ( 800/466-8356 or 435/628-7979; www.motel6.com), and Quality Inn, 1165 S. Bluff St. ( 877/424-6423 or 435/628-4481; www.qualityinn.com). Rooms at these properties typically run $40 to $65 double, higher during special events.

Room tax adds about 12% to your lodging bill. Pets are generally not accepted unless otherwise noted.

Expensive & Moderate

Green Gate Village Historic Bed & Breakfast ★★ One of the most delightful lodgings in St. George, this bed-and-breakfast inn is actually 10 separate buildings—all restored pioneer homes from the late 1800s, sitting in their own flower-filled little “village” across the street from Town Square. Each has a different floor plan (most have one king bed); breakfast is served in the central 1876 Bentley House. Outside are the green gates of the establishment’s name. It seems Brigham Young ordered white paint for the St. George Temple in 1877, but got a shipment of green instead. He couldn’t send it back, so Young gave the green stuff to locals for their gates and fences. Only one original green gate remains: It’s on display in the inn’s garden.

76 W. Tabernacle St., St. George, UT 84770. www.greengatevillageinn.com. 800/350-6999 or 435/628-6999. Fax 435/628-6989. 15 units. $99–$259 double. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. From I-15 exit 8, head west to Main St., turn left (south) 1 block to Tabernacle St., and turn right (west) to Green Gate Village. Amenities: Outdoor Jacuzzi; small outdoor heated pool. In room: A/C, TV/VCR or DVD, movie library, Wi-Fi (free).

The Inn at Entrada ★★ Located on an exclusive golf course north of downtown St. George, the Inn at Entrada offers a place to get away from it all right in the thick of an upscale residential development. The high-tech units feature automatic shades and touch-control lighting as well as plenty of Southwestern-inspired style. The recreational facilities make the place: Besides access to the Entrada at Snow Canyon Country Club with purchase of a golf package (lodging and 18 holes for $75–$175 per night), guests have the run of a rec center with a full gym, pools, and sand volleyball courts. All units have kitchens; all but the studios have washers and dryers.

2588 Sinagua Trail, St. George, UT 84770. www.innatentrada.com. 435/634-7100. 23 units. $79–$129 double. Rates include access to gym, pool, and golf course. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; exercise room; 18-hole golf course; 1 indoor and 1 outdoor Jacuzzi; 1 indoor and 1 outdoor heated pool; tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, kitchen, Wi-Fi (free).

Red Mountain Resort ★★ One of the largest destination spa resorts in the country, Red Mountain is also among the best, and it serves as an excellent base for all sorts of adventures in southwestern Utah. Guests can stay in either stylishly chic hotel-style rooms or condolike villas, all done in earth tones with a contemporary style. Located in a concrete geodesic dome, the centerpiece is the spa, with a sublime view of adjacent Snow Canyon State Park and a terrific staff. Other on-site activities include fitness classes, special events, indoor and outdoor pools, guided hikes on nearby trails, and a terrific restaurant focused on healthy cuisine.

1275 E. Red Mountain Circle, Ivins, UT 84738. www.redmountainresort.com. 435/673-4905. Fax 435/673-1363. 106 units, including 24 villas. $230–$619 per person per night. Rates include all meals and numerous activities. Room only $175–$445 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. Located about 7 miles north of St. George via Utah 18 and Utah 8. Amenities: Restaurant; bike rentals; exercise room; Jacuzzi; indoor and outdoor pools; spa. In room: A/C, TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Seven Wives Inn Bed & Breakfast ★ While no polygamists are hiding in the attic of Seven Wives Inn anymore—as there were in the 1880s after polygamy was outlawed—it’s fascinating to imagine what things must have been like in those days. Decorated with antiques, mostly Victorian and Eastlake, the inn consists of two historic abodes: the main house, built in 1873, where the polygamists hid, and the president’s house next door, a four-square Victorian built 10 years later that played host to many of the LDS Church’s early presidents. Each room has a deck or balcony, and private bathroom; most units have DVD players, four have a functioning fireplace, and four have two-person whirlpool tubs—one is installed in a Model T Ford! A separate wheelchair-accessible cottage furnished with replica pioneer furniture, an extra-large shower, a two-person whirlpool, a king-size bed, a kitchenette, and a gas fireplace is also available. Tours are offered by appointment; smoking is not permitted.

217 N. 100 West, St. George, UT 84770. www.sevenwivesinn.com. 800/600-3737 or 435/628-3737. Fax 435/628-5646. 13 units, including 2 suites. $99–$150 double; $185–$195 suite. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

Dixie Palm Motel Travelers on tight budgets should head to the Dixie Palm for basic lodging at bargain-basement rates. Located right in the center of town, within walking distance of several restaurants and attractions, this motel is clean and well maintained—and the price is right. All rooms have fridges and microwaves, some units have full kitchens, and some are “family suites” with plenty of room and up to three beds.

185 E. St. George Blvd., St. George, UT 84770. www.dixiepalmmotel.com. 866/651-3997 or 435/673-3531. 15 units. $35–$55 double; $55–$70 family suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen, Wi-Fi (free).

Camping

Snow Canyon, Quail Creek, and Gunlock state parks also have campgrounds.

McArthur’s Temple View RV Resort This large RV park is right in town and has an attractive outdoor pool and hot tub, as well as an exercise room, a shuffleboard court, Wi-Fi near the clubhouse, and a putting/chipping green.

975 S. Main St., St. George, UT 84770. www.templeviewrv.com. 800/776-6410 or 435/673-6400. 260 sites. $38–$42. AE, DISC, MC, V. Just off I-15 exit 6.

Where to Eat

In addition to the restaurants discussed below, the Bear Paw Coffee Company, 75 N. Main St. ( 435/634-0126; www.bearpawcafe.com), serves great breakfasts ranging from steak and eggs to French toast. Also don’t miss Judd’s General Store, a century-old business at Green Gate Village (see “Where to Stay,” earlier in this chapter), with sandwiches and soups for lunch as well as ice cream, candy, and one of the widest selections of bottled soft drinks in the state.

Painted Pony ★★ STEAK/SEAFOOD From a lively contemporary space overlooking Ancestor Square, Randall Richards’s excellent eatery is easily the best restaurant in St. George, and probably the best between Vegas and Salt Lake. Infused with a sensibility that’s more California than Utah, Richards’s creative menu includes familiar dishes with fresh preparations, seafood (seared ahi with wasabi aioli is particularly good), expertly grilled steaks (you could slice the tenderloin with a spoon), and an excellent bacon-wrapped duck with apple stuffing and purée of celery root. The room, with a curving bar and a colorful equine motif, nicely complements the menu. Lunch offerings include gourmet sandwiches and salads. Full liquor service is available.

The Tower at Ancestor Square, 1 W. St. George Blvd., No. 22. 435/634-1700. www.painted-pony.com. Main courses $9–$11 lunch, $26–$34 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–10pm; Sun 4–9pm.

Xetava Gardens Cafe ★ NEW AMERICAN Located amid the galleries at Coyote Gulch Art Village, Xetava Gardens Cafe serves creative fare in a chic space with a terrific courtyard north of St. George. The cafe morphs from counter-service coffee shop for breakfast and lunch into an upscale restaurant for dinner 3 nights a week. The menu includes waffles, parfaits, and egg sandwiches for breakfast, then salads and bagel and ciabatta sandwiches for lunch. Dinner is more refined, with chili-garlic rack of lamb, spicy shrimp, and steaks. There are also vegetarian selections for every meal.

815 Coyote Gulch Court, Ivins. 435/656-0165. www.xetava.com. Main courses $7–$14 lunch, $12–$32 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 8am–5pm; Thurs–Sat 5:30–9pm. Located 7 miles west of St. George via Sunset Blvd.

St. George After Dark

St. George, with its large nondrinking Mormon population, isn’t one of the West’s hot spots as far as bar scenes go. Locals going out on the town will often attend a performing arts event, and perhaps stop in for a nightcap at one of the local restaurants that serve alcohol or a hotel restaurant. Keep in mind that you’ll have to buy something to eat in order to purchase a drink.

Dixie State College’s Avenna Center, 425 S. 700 East (ticket office 435/652-7800; http://tickets.dixie.edu), is St. George’s primary performing arts venue. The four-building complex hosts a wide range of performances, from country and rock concerts to symphony, ballet, and opera performances—and even sports games.

Dixie State College, 225 S. 700 East ( 435/652-7500; www.dixie.edu), offers a variety of events throughout the school year. The Celebrity Concert Series, running from October through April, has developed a strong following for its programs of music, ballet, modern dance, and performing arts presented by national and international performers. Tickets are typically $20. Recent offerings have included performances by the Osmonds–Second Generation and the Red Star Red Army Band and Chorus.

Not to be outdone, the college’s music and drama departments offer numerous performances, including student recitals; band, chamber singer, and jazz ensemble concerts; and theater that runs the gamut from musicals to dramas—and maybe even a Greek tragedy. Admission usually costs between $8 and $12 per person; most performances are presented at Cox Auditorium. Call the box office ( 435/652-7800; http://tickets.dixie.edu) to find out what’s scheduled during your visit.

Music lovers will enjoy St. George’s own Southwest Symphonic Chorale and Southwest Symphony, the only full symphony orchestra between Provo and Las Vegas. Its repertoire includes classical, opera, and popular music. Get tickets early for the annual Christmas production of Handel’s Messiah—it usually sells out. Concerts are usually scheduled from October to May ( 435/688-8183; www.southwestsymphony.org).

Broadway musicals and plays are presented in a September-through-April season by St. George Musical Theater, 735 E. Tabernacle ( 435/628-8755; www.sgmt.org). Recent productions have included Annie Get Your Gun and Singing in the Rain; tickets cost $10 to $15.

The St. George Tabernacle presents free concerts (including half-hour organ recitals) on Saturday at 12:15pm and Wednesday at 7pm. For information on these and other programs, call 435/673-5181.

Not far from St. George, at 1100 Tuacahn Dr., in Ivins, is the Tuacahn Amphitheatre and Center for the Arts ( 800/746-9882 or 435/652-3300; www.tuacahn.org). Surrounded by towering red-rock cliffs, this 2,000-seat state-of-the-art outdoor theater presents original and Broadway productions from June through September, and at other times is the venue for big-name music acts, such as Kenny Rogers. It also hosts the annual Christmas Festival of Lights, during which Christmas lights illuminate the buildings and grounds at Tuacahn. Reservations are recommended. Tickets for the musicals vary, but are generally in the range of $20 to $60 for adults and $20 to $40 for children 11 and under. Dutch-oven dinners are served before the productions ($13 for adults and $9.50 for children).

Those looking for more lowbrow nightlife should check out Jazzy’s Rock ’n’ Roll Grill, 285 N. Bluff St. ( 435/674-1678; www.jazzysrocknrollgrill.com), offering beers, burgers, and live music of all kinds.

Cedar Breaks National Monument

Cedar City: 53 miles NE of St. George, 251 miles SW of Salt Lake City; Cedar Breaks National Monument: 21 miles E of Cedar City

This great little area is home to some unheralded—and uncrowded—natural gems. Cedar Breaks National Monument is like a miniature Bryce Canyon—a stunning multicolored amphitheater of stone, with hiking trails, camping, and a plateau ablaze with wildflowers in summer. Brian Head is Utah’s southernmost ski resort, but because it has the highest base elevation of any of the state’s ski areas, it gets about 450 inches of powder each winter. Where else but southern Utah can you be on the links in the morning and on the slopes by the afternoon? And because Brian Head Resort is off the average skier’s beaten track, lift lines are usually nonexistent.

But this area is more than an outdoor play land—with Frontier Homestead State Park Museum and the nationally renowned Utah Shakespearean Festival, Cedar City happens to be a great place to experience a little history as well as some great theater. Even if neither of these attractions appeals to you, you’ll probably end up in Cedar City anyway—it’s home to most of the area’s accommodations and restaurants.

Basing Yourself in Cedar City

The community of Cedar City (elevation 5,800 ft.) is a good base for those exploring this area, especially because Cedar Breaks National Monument has no lodging or dining facilities. If you’re here to ski and you’d like to save money on accommodations, Cedar City also offers an economical alternative to Brian Head’s more expensive condos, and it’s only 28 miles from Brian Head’s slopes (but beware: it can be a mean 28 miles when the weather’s bad). In addition to the facilities mentioned below, a good selection of motels, restaurants, campgrounds, gas stations, grocery stores, and other services is strung along I-15 at exits 57, 59, and 62.

Essentials

Getting There Delta flies into Cedar City Regional Airport ( 435/867-9408; www.cedarcity.org) from Salt Lake City; car-rental agencies include Avis ( 435/867-9898; www.avis.com), Hertz ( 435/586-9806; www.hertz.com), and Enterprise ( 435/865-7636; www.enterprise.com).

Visitor Information Contact the Cedar City-Brian Head Tourism Bureau, 581 N. Main St., Cedar City, UT 84720 ( 800/354-4849 or 435/586-5124; www.scenicsouthernutah.com). The visitor center is open Monday through Friday 8am to 5pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 9am to 5pm.

Fast Facts This area is served by Cedar City’s Valley View Medical Center, 1303 N. Main St. ( 435/868-5000). The post office is located at 333 N. Main St. ( 800/275-8777 for hours and other information; www.usps.com).

Where to Stay & Eat

Lodging possibilities in Cedar City include the Abbey Inn, 940 W. 200 North ( 800/325-5411 or 435/586-9966; www.abbeyinncedar.com), Best Western El Rey Inn, 80 S. Main St. ( 800/688-6518 or 435/586-6518; www.bwelrey.com), Best Western Town & Country, 189 N. Main St. ( 800/493-0062 or 435/586-9900; www.bwtowncountry.com), Days Inn, 1204 S. Main St. ( 800/329-7466 or 435/867-8877; www.daysinn.com), Motel 6, 1620 W. 200 North ( 800/466-8356 or 435/586-9200; www.motel6.com), Quality Inn, 250 N. 1100 West ( 800/627-0374 or 435/586-2082; www.qualityinncedarcity.com), and Super 8, 145 N. 1550 West ( 800/800-8000 or 435/586-8880; www.super8.com). All of the above charge less than $100 for doubles in winter; rates are slightly higher in summer. Room tax adds about 10% to lodging bills.

Cedar City KOA Campground, 1121 N. Main St., Cedar City ( 800/562-9873 or 435/586-9872) is open year-round and charges $25 to $50 per site.

The local favorite since 1956, Milt’s Stage Stop, 5 miles east of town on Utah 14 ( 435/586-9344; www.miltsstagestop.com), offers steak and seafood for dinner only, from $15 to $50, with complete liquor service. For lighter fare, try the Pastry Pub, 86 W. Center St. ( 435/867-1400; www.cedarcitypastrypub.com), a cafe offering sandwiches, tostadas, egg dishes, and baked goods in a Shakespearean-themed space.

Those planning trips into the nearby mountains—perhaps for a few days at Cedar Breaks National Monument, described below—can pick up supplies in Cedar City at Albertson’s Food & Drug, 905 S. Main St. ( 435/586-4433; www.albertsons.com), or Smith’s Food & Drug Center, 633 S. Main St. ( 435/586-1203; www.smithsfoodanddrug.com).

A Brief Look at Cedar City’s Pioneer Past

Frontier Homestead State Park Museum Horse-drawn wagons are the main focus at this state park and museum, the site of the original Mormon iron works in Utah, with several dozen on display. In addition to the usual buckboards, a bullet-scarred Old West stagecoach, and some elaborate, for-the-very-very-rich-only coaches, you’ll see an original Studebaker White Top Wagon (predecessor of the present-day station wagon) and several hearses, as well as the only artifact dating back to the original foundry, the town bell.

Also on exhibit are Native American and pioneer artifacts from the region, as well as a diorama depicting the 1850s iron furnace and equipment for which the park is named. Demonstrations of pioneer crafts, such as weaving, spinning, candle making, cooking, and toy making, are held periodically. Changing exhibits feature the work of local artists. Allow about an hour.

The museum also manages Old Iron Town, an 1860s-to-1870s iron foundry west of Cedar City. Ask at the desk for information and directions.

635 N. Main St., downtown Cedar City. 435/586-9290. www.stateparks.utah.gov. Admission $3, free for children 5 and under. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day.

Renaissance Delights on the Colorado Plateau: The Utah Shakespearean Festival

Cedar City hosts Utah’s premier theater event—the highly acclaimed Utah Shakespearean Festival ★★★, which has been presenting professionally staged works by Shakespeare and others since 1962.

The season, which runs from late June through October, includes eight plays—usually three by Shakespeare and five by others—in which top actors perform in true Elizabethan style in an open-air replica of the original Globe Theatre and in a modern enclosed theater. Productions scheduled for 2012 include Shakespeare’s The Merry Wives of Windsor, Titus Andronicus, and Hamlet, plus Stones in His Pockets by Marie Jones and To Kill a Mockingbird by Christopher Sergel, based on the novel by Harper Lee.

You can also take a backstage tour for $8 per person in the summer. A variety of other programs and special events are scheduled.

The festival is held on the Southern Utah University campus, 351 W. Center St., Cedar City. Ticket prices range from $22 to $71. For tickets and information, call 800/752-9849 or 435/586-7878; or check out the festival’s website, www.bard.org.

Cedar Breaks National Monument ★★

A delightful little park, Cedar Breaks is a wonderful place to spend a few hours or even several days, gazing down from the rim into the spectacular natural amphitheater, hiking the trails, and camping among the spruce, fir, and wildflowers that blanket the plateau in summer.

This natural coliseum, reminiscent of Bryce Canyon, is more than 2,000 feet deep and over 3 miles across; it’s filled with stone spires, arches, and columns shaped by the forces of erosion and painted in ever-changing reds, purples, oranges, and ochers. But why “Cedar Breaks”? Well, the pioneers who came here called such badlands “breaks,” and they mistook the juniper trees along the cliff bases for cedars.

Essentials

At more than 10,000 feet elevation, it’s always pleasantly cool at Cedar Breaks. It actually gets downright cold at night, so bring a jacket or sweater, even if the temperature is scorching just down the road in St. George. The monument opens for its short summer season only after the snow melts, usually in late May, and closes in mid-October—unless you happen to have a snowmobile or a pair of cross-country skis or snowshoes, in which case you can visit year-round.

Getting There Cedar Breaks National Monument is 21 miles east of Cedar City, 56 miles west of Bryce Canyon National Park, and 247 miles south of Salt Lake City.

From I-15, drive east of Cedar City on Utah 14 to Utah 148, turn north (left), and follow Utah 148 into the monument. If you’re coming from Bryce Canyon or other points east, the park is accessible from the town of Panguitch via Utah 143. From the north, take the Parowan exit off I-15 and head south on Utah 143. It’s a steep climb from whichever direction you choose, and vehicles prone to vapor lock or loss of power on hills (such as motor homes) may have some problems.

Information/Visitor Center For advance information, contact the Superintendent, Cedar Breaks National Monument, 2390 W. Utah 56, Ste. 11, Cedar City, UT 84720-4151 ( 435/586-9451; www.nps.gov/cebr).

A mile from the south entrance gate is the visitor center, open 9am to 6pm daily from late May to mid-October, with exhibits on the geology, flora, and fauna of Cedar Breaks. You can purchase books and maps here, and rangers can help plan your visit.

Fees & Regulations Admission is $4 per person per week for those 16 and older (charged only in summer). Regulations are similar to those at most national parks: Leave everything as you find it. Mountain bikes are not allowed on hiking trails. Dogs, which must be leashed at all times, are prohibited on all trails, in the backcountry, and in public buildings.

Health & Safety The high elevation—10,350 feet at the visitor center—is likely to cause shortness of breath and tiredness, and those with heart or respiratory conditions should consult their doctors before going. Avoid overlooks and other high, exposed areas during thunderstorms; they’re often targets for lightning.

Ranger Programs During the monument’s short summer season, rangers offer campfire talks at the Point Supreme campground several nights a week, daily talks on geology and other subjects, and several guided hikes. There are also special programs on the monument’s wildflowers, and, in recent years, stargazing programs have become especially popular. All ranger programs are free. A complete schedule is posted at the visitor center and the campground.

Exploring Cedar Breaks by Car

The 5-mile road through Cedar Breaks National Monument offers easy access to the monument’s scenic overlooks and trail heads. Allow 30 to 45 minutes to make the drive. Start at the visitor center and nearby Point Supreme for a panoramic view of the amphitheater. Then drive north, past the campground and picnic ground turnoff, to Sunset View for a closer view of the amphitheater and its colorful canyons. From each of these overlooks, you can see out across Cedar Valley, over the Antelope and Black mountains, into the Escalante Desert.

Continue north to Chessman Ridge Overlook, so named because the hoodoos directly below look like massive stone chess pieces. Watch for swallows and swifts soaring among the rock formations. Then head north to Alpine Pond, a trail head for a self-guided nature trail (see “Hiking,” below) with an abundance of wildflowers. Finally, you’ll reach North View, which offers the best look into the amphitheater. The view here is reminiscent of Bryce Canyon’s Queen’s Garden, with its stately statues frozen in time.

Outdoor Pursuits

Hiking No trails connect the rim to the bottom of the amphitheater, but the monument does have two high-country trails. The fairly easy 2-mile Alpine Pond Trail loop leads through woodlands of bristlecone pines to a picturesque forest glade and pond surrounded by wildflowers, offering panoramic views of the amphitheater along the way. A printed trail guide is available for purchase at the trail head.

A somewhat more challenging hike, the 4-mile round-trip Spectra Point/Ramparts Overlook Trail follows the rim more closely than the Alpine Pond Trail, offering changing views of the colorful rock formations. It also takes you through fields of wildflowers and by bristlecone pines that are more than 1,600 years old. Be especially careful of your footing along the exposed cliff edges, and allow yourself some time to rest—there are lots of ups and downs along the way.

The 1-mile round-trip Campground Trail connects the campground with the visitor center, providing views of the amphitheater along the way. It is the only trail in the monument where pets are permitted.

There are no trails from the rim to the bottom of the amphitheater completely within the monument, but there are trails just outside the monument that go into the amphitheater. Check with the visitor center for details and directions.

Late-Summer Bonanza: The Cedar Breaks Wildflowers

During its brief summer season, Cedar Breaks makes the most of the warmth and moisture in the air with a spectacular wildflower show. The rim comes alive in a blaze of color—truly a sight to behold. The dazzling display begins practically as soon as the snow melts and reaches its peak in mid-July. The annual 2-week Wildflower Festival, which celebrates the colorful display, starts the weekend closest to Independence Day. Watch for mountain bluebells, spring beauty, beard tongue, and fleabane early in the season; those beauties then make way for columbine, larkspur, Indian paintbrush, wild roses, and other flowers.

Wildlife-Watching Because of its relative remoteness, Cedar Breaks is a good place for spotting wildlife. You’re likely to see mule deer grazing in the meadows along the road early and late in the day. Marmots make their dens near the rim and are often seen along the Spectra Point Trail. Ground squirrels, red squirrels, and chipmunks are everywhere. Pikas, which are related to rabbits, are here, too, but it’s unlikely you’ll see one because they prefer the high, rocky slopes.

In the campground, birders should have no trouble spotting the Clark’s nutcracker, with its gray torso and black-and-white wings and tail. The monument is also home to swallows, swifts, blue grouse, and golden eagles.

Winter Fun The monument’s facilities are shut down from mid-October to late May due to the blanket of snow that covers the area. The snow-blocked roads keep cars out, but they’re perfect for snowmobilers, snowshoers, and cross-country skiers, who usually come over from the Brian Head ski area nearby. Snowshoers and cross-country skiers have several different trails to choose from, but snowmobiles are restricted to the main 5-mile road through the monument, which is groomed and marked.

Camping

The 28-site campground, Point Supreme, just north of the visitor center, is open from June to mid-September, with sites available on a first-come, first-served basis. It’s a beautiful high-mountain setting, among tall spruce and fir. Facilities include restrooms, drinking water, picnic tables, grills, and an amphitheater for the ranger’s evening campfire programs. No showers or RV hookups are available. The camping fee is $14 per night. Keep in mind that even in midsummer, temperatures can drop into the 30s (single digits Celsius) at night at this elevation, so bring cool-weather gear.

Brian Head Resort

Like the ski areas in the Ogden and Logan areas, the reasons to visit Brian Head Resort are terrain and snow; the wide range of amenities found in Park City, Deer Valley, and Snowbird just don’t exist here. In summer, mountain bikers and hikers converge on Brian Head.

Brian Head has the distinction of being Utah’s southernmost ski resort, just a short drive from the year-round short-sleeve warmth of St. George. Its location makes it particularly popular with skiers from the Las Vegas area and Southern California. But with the highest base elevation of any of the state’s ski areas (9,600 ft.), it receives over 400 inches of powdery snow each winter. Another plus is the scenery: The only ski resort in Utah’s famed red-rock country, Brian Head Resort offers stunning views.

On Giant Steps Mountain, you’ll find challenging intermediate, advanced, and expert-only runs and terrain parks for a family’s more advanced skiers and boarders. Giant Steps sits just below 11,307-foot Brian Head Peak, where expert-level skiers and snowboarders enjoy hike-accessed, backcountry bowls. Intermediates will enjoy fine cruising runs a little farther down the mountain, and beginners can ski Navajo Mountain, dedicated solely to children and beginning skiers and snowboarders. The terrain is rated 40% beginner, 40% intermediate, and 20% advanced on 65 runs. One double chair and seven triples service 650 skiable acres. The vertical drop is 1,320 feet, 1,548 feet if you hike a little. There are snow-making capabilities on 170 acres. The ski season generally runs from mid-November to mid-April, with lifts operating daily from 10am to 4:30pm. On weekends and holidays, night skiing and tubing is available until 9pm.

Snowboarders are welcome, with four terrain parks of varying ability levels, plenty of free riding terrain, and a half pipe, conditions permitting. The resort also has a snow tubing park.

For information, contact Brian Head Resort, 329 S. Utah 143, P.O. Box 190008, Brian Head, UT 84719 ( 435/677-2035; www.brianhead.com), or Brian Head Chamber of Commerce & Visitor Services, P.O. Box 190325, Brian Head, UT 84719 ( 888/677-2810 or 435/677-2810; www.brianheadchamber.com).

From Cedar City, it’s 28 miles to Brian Head; take I-15 to exit 75 and head south on the very steep Utah 143 about 12 miles.

Serious Mountain Biking & Other Summer Fun

After the snow melts, bikers and hikers claim the mountain. With elevations of 9,600 to 11,307 feet, Brian Head is stunningly beautiful and always cool and crisp. For those who want to see the mountains without the sweat, chairlift rides are offered in summer Friday to Sunday ($10 adults, $6 children 4–12, free for kids 3 and under). Evenings are busy, too, with live musical entertainment ranging from jazz and country to bluegrass and classical.

Brian Head is fast becoming a major destination for serious and dedicated mountain bikers. This is a wonderful place for mountain biking ★, with endless trails, superb scenery, and about the freshest air you’re going to find. What’s more, mountain biking here can be oh-so-very easy: A chairlift hauls you and your bike up the mountain ($24 for a full-day pass), or you can take a shuttle to and from several locations ($17)—leaving only the fun parts to pedal. Bike rentals start at $35 to $54 per day for adults, $20 for kids 11 and under, and helmets are $5. Contact the Brian Head Resort Mountain Bike Park ( 866/930-1010, ext. 212), Brianhead Sports ( 435/677-2014; www.brianheadsports.com), or George’s Bike Shop ( 435/677-2013; www.georgsskishop.com) for details.

Other summer on-mountain activities including mountain biking, hiking, disc golf, and the new self-guided “Brian Head Family Adventure,” earth-science- and natural-history-focused activities ranging from orienteering to learning about petroglyphs.

All of these activities are offered on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays through Labor Day and then Saturdays and Sundays through September. Hours are 9:30am to 4:30pm (weather conditions permitting) and can be accessed via the Giant Steps chairlift.

Lift Tickets An adult all-day lift ticket is $49 regular season and an all-day child’s (ages 6–12) or senior’s (ages 65 and over) ticket is $35 regular season; half-day tickets are $40 and $29, respectively. Kids 5 and under ski free with a paying adult. Night skiing or snowboarding costs $15. Snow tubing is $15 for 2 hours, including tube rental.

Lessons & Programs The ski school offers private and group lessons, as well as clinics, snowboard classes, and children’s ski instruction. Day care is available for children and infants; also available are packages combining day care and ski lessons. Call 435/677-2049 for current rates.

Cross-Country Skiing There are numerous cross-country options in Cedar Breaks National Monument. Lessons and rentals are available at Brianhead Sports ( 435/677-2014; www.brianheadsports.com); there’s no charge for trail use.

Where To Stay & Dine The Brian Head area offers a variety of lodging possibilities, with winter rates ranging from about $150 to $300 per night (higher at Christmas; lower in summer). Contact the Brian Head Chamber of Commerce ( 888/677-2810; www.brianheadchamber.com) or Brian Head Reservation Center ( 800/845-9781 or 435/677-2042; www.brianheadtown.com/bhrc). Room tax is about 10%. You can also stay in Cedar City, 28 miles away (see “Basing Yourself in Cedar City,” earlier in this chapter).

Cedar Breaks Lodge & Spa ★, 2223 Hunter Ridge Rd., Brian Head ( 888/282-3327 or 435/677-3000; www.cedarbreakslodge.com), near the base of Navajo Mountain, recently underwent an extensive multimillion-dollar renovation. It offers more than 100 studio, parlor, and master “villas” ranging from $95 to $480 in winter, $80 to $205 in summer. All rooms have whirlpool tubs, wet bars, refrigerators, microwaves, coffeemakers, and hair dryers; some also have fireplaces. Facilities include a 24-hour front desk, two restaurants, a lounge, an indoor pool, a fireside Jacuzzi, a fitness center, a sauna, and a steam room. Boasting one of Utah’s top spas, the lodge has several massage therapists available, offering Swedish full-body massage, deep tissue massage, sports massage, reflexology, aromatherapy baths, hydrating facials, salt glows, and herbal wraps. New in 2009, the Grand Lodge at Brian Head ★, 314 Hunter Ridge Rd. ( 435/677-9000; www.grandlodgebrianhead.com), is another posh spot to hang your hat at the resort, offering rooms and suites with earth tones and subtle contemporary furnishings. Facilities include a restaurant, bar, fitness center, concierge, game room, and spa.

Quick breakfasts and lunches are served at several places at Brian Head, including the Giant Steps and Navajo Lodge grills, with meals from $5 to $10. The Double Black Diamond Steak House at Cedar Breaks Lodge & Spa (see above) offers fine dining daily in winter, with steaks, prime rib, and several seafood and pasta dishes in the $15-to-$30 range. Reservations are recommended ( 435/677-4242). Also at Cedar Breaks Lodge & Spa, the Cedar Breaks Café serves a breakfast buffet plus a la carte menu each morning, and offers casual dinners each evening. Prices range from $8 to $18. The Cedar Breaks Bar & Grill is a local gathering place, with a full bar and the option of ordering from the Cedar Breaks Café menu. The Grand Lodge at Brian Head (see above) has Leany’s Steakhouse (breakfast and dinner) and the hip Lift Bar & Patio.

Eagle Point: Two Resorts Reborn as One

Skiers and snowboarders take note: Southern Utah now has another ski area in Eagle Point, located 18 miles east of Beaver, via exit 109 or 112 on I-15 ( 855/324-5378 or 435/438-3700; www.skieaglepoint.com). Nestled in the scenic Tushar Mountains, the resort is not exactly new (it’s comprised of the former Elk Meadows and Mount Holly ski areas) but the freshly minted ownership has breathed plenty of new life into the place, which gets a full 450 inches of snow annually on its 625 acres. There are 42 runs here with a 1,500-foot vertical rise served by one quad chair, one triple, two doubles, and a platter. There are plenty of steeps (45% expert) to complement the beginner (20%) and intermediate (35%) terrains. There is also a pair of terrain parks and a tubing area. Lift tickets are a bargain at $50 for adults for a full day, $35 for kids 7 to 17 and seniors 65 and up. There are condos available on the mountain starting at $150 nightly, as well as a restaurant serving three meals daily in winter.

Kanab: Cinema, Sand Dunes & Grand Canyon Gateway

82 miles E of St. George, 303 miles S of Salt Lake City, 79 miles N of the Grand Canyon

Another southern Utah town founded by Mormon pioneers sent by Brigham Young in the 1870s, Kanab is best known for its starring role in the movies and on TV. This is the Wild West many of us recognize from old TV shows like Gunsmoke, The Lone Ranger, Death Valley Days, and F Troop, and from the big screen in Buffalo Bill, Sergeants 3, Bandolero!, and The Outlaw Josey Wales.

But Kanab (4,925 ft. elevation) lives on more than just memories of the Old West: It’s also a stopping point for travelers on their way to southern Utah’s major sights. Visitors coming from Arizona are likely to pass through on their way to Zion and Bryce Canyon national parks. And with the Grand Canyon’s north rim directly to the south, Kanab is a good choice for a home base. True, none of these natural wonders are all that close to Kanab, but in Utah terms, they’re “just around the corner.”

Essentials

Getting There Kanab is 82 miles east of St. George, 80 miles south of Bryce Canyon National Park, 42 miles east of Zion National Park, 68 miles west of Lake Powell and Glen Canyon Recreation Area, 79 miles north of the Grand Canyon, and 303 miles south of Salt Lake City. The town is located on U.S. 89 at the junction of U.S. 89A, which crosses into Arizona just 7 miles south of town.

Visitor Information Contact the Kane County Visitors Center, 78 S. 100 East (U.S. 89), Kanab, UT 84741 ( 800/733-5263 or 435/644-5033; www.kaneutah.com), which is open April through November Monday to Friday 9am to 7pm and Saturdays 9am to 6pm, with shorter hours in the winter.

Getting Around Kanab is laid out on a grid, with the heart of town at the intersection of Center and Main streets. U.S. 89 enters from the north on 300 West Street, turns east onto Center Street, south on 100 East Street, and finally east again on 300 South. U.S. 89A follows 100 East Street south to the airport and into Arizona.

Fast Facts The Kane County Hospital is at 355 N. Main St. in Kanab ( 435/644-5811; www.kanecountyhospital.net). The post office is at 39 S. Main St. ( 800/275-8777 for hours and other information; www.usps.com).

Best Friends Animal Sanctuary

If you’re an animal lover, one of the highlights of a trip to this part of Utah is a stop at the Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, near Kanab. Whether you volunteer, or just stop for a look, you won’t soon forget a visit to this 5,000-acre spread, home to more than 2,000 cats, dogs, rabbits, horses, birds, and other animals. Founded in the 1980s, the Best Friends Animal Society’s mission is simple: to bring the number of pets being euthanized to “essentially zero.”

You can see the group’s deep commitment to animals at the sanctuary, set amid the red rock of Angel Canyon. The staff works tirelessly to get these often abused or abandoned animals ready for adoption. Their efforts have been chronicled on National Geographic Channel’s show Dog Town. At Best Friends, every animal has a home for life.

Free guided tours are available daily; call ahead for a reservation. Many people come and stay for a week or more, and you can rent cottages ($95–$120 double per night), smaller cabins ($60–$75 per night), and RV sites ($45 per night) on the property. You don’t need to volunteer in order to stay—some people simply take advantage of the amazing setting, with its network of hiking trails.

Volunteers sign up to help with everything from walking dogs to socializing cats to feeding birds; you can pick which critters you’d like to work with. Volunteers must be at least 6 years of age, and those 17 and under must be accompanied at all times by an adult. You must make arrangements to volunteer before your visit. Specialized workshops on animal-related topics are also available.

The entrance to Best Friends is about 5 miles north of Kanab on the east side of U.S. 89. The Welcome Center is open daily from 8am to 5pm. Call 435/644-2001 or visit www.bestfriends.org for more information.

Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park

Long a favorite of dune-buggy enthusiasts (off-road-vehicle users lobbied hard to have this designated a state park), Coral Pink Sand Dunes has recently been attracting an increasing number of campers, hikers, photographers, and all-around nature lovers. While big boys—and some big girls—play with their expensive motorized toys, others hike; hunt for wildflowers, glow-in-the-dark scorpions, and lizards; or just wiggle their toes in the smooth, cool sand. The colors are especially rich at sunrise and sunset. Early-morning visitors will find the tracks of yesterday’s dune buggies gone, replaced by the tracks of lizards, kangaroo rats, snakes, and the rest of the park’s animal kingdom, who venture out in the coolness of night, after all the people have departed.

Essentials

Getting There From downtown Kanab, go about 8 miles north on U.S. 89, then southwest (left) on Hancock Road for about 12 miles to the park.

Information/Visitor Center For copies of the park brochure and off-highway-vehicle regulations, contact the park office at P.O. Box 95, Kanab, UT 84741-0095 ( 435/648-2800; www.stateparks.utah.gov). At the park entry station, there’s a small display area with sand from around the world, local fossils, and live scorpions, lizards, and tadpoles.

Fees & Regulations The day-use fee is $6 per vehicle. The standard state park regulations apply, with the addition of a few extra rules due to the park’s popularity for off-roading: Quiet hours are from 10pm to 9am, later in the morning than in most parks. Dunes are open to motor vehicles between 9am and 10pm and to hikers at any time. Vehicles going onto the dunes must have safety flags, available at the entry station; while on the dunes, they must stay at least 10 feet from vegetation and at least 100 feet from hikers. Dogs are permitted on the dunes but must be leashed.

Outdoor Pursuits

Four-Wheeling This giant 3,700-acre sandbox offers plenty of space for off-road-vehicle enthusiasts, who race up and down the dunes, stopping to perch on a crest to watch the setting sun. Because the sand here is quite fine, extra-wide flotation tires are needed; lightweight dune buggies are usually the vehicle of choice. Adjacent to the park on Bureau of Land Management property are hundreds of miles of trails and roads for off-highway vehicles.

Hiking The best time for hiking the dunes is early morning. It’s cooler then, the lighting at and just after sunrise produces beautiful shadows and colors, and there are no noisy dune buggies until after 9am. Sunset is also very pretty, but you’ll be sharing the dunes with off-road vehicles. Keep in mind that hiking through fine sand can be very tiring, especially for those who go barefoot. A self-guided .5-mile loop nature trail has numbered signs through some of the dunes; allow half an hour.

Several other hikes of various lengths are possible within and just outside the park, but because there are few signs—and because landmarks change with the shifting sands—it’s best to check with park rangers before setting out. Those spending more than a few hours in the dunes will discover that even their own tracks disappear in the wind, leaving few clues to the route back to park headquarters.

Camping

The spacious and mostly shady 22-site campground, open year-round, offers hot showers, modern restrooms, and an RV dump station, but no hookups. Camping costs $16. Call 800/322-3770 or visit www.stateparks.utah.gov for reservations.

More to See & Do in the Kanab Area

Frontier Movie Town Hollywood’s vision of the Wild West lives on, with a jail, bunkhouse, bank, ranch house, and numerous other set creations for movies filmed in the Kanab area (once nicknamed “Little Hollywood”) over the years. On display are buildings from the sets of Disney’s 1973 comedy-drama One Little Indian, starring James Garner and Vera Miles; the 1948 classic Western Black Bart, with Yvonne De Carlo and Dan Duryea; the 1994 Western Maverick, with Mel Gibson, Jodie Foster, and James Garner; and Clint Eastwood’s 1976 hit The Outlaw Josey Wales, among others.

On the grounds is a large gift/souvenir shop, offering a wide variety of Native American arts and crafts, cowboy hats, coonskin caps, and the like. Call to see if a chuck-wagon dinner is scheduled during your visit. Allow about an hour to tour the whole town.

297 W. Center St. 435/644-5337. www.frontiermovietown.com. Free admission. Summer daily 8:30am–9pm; shorter hours rest of year.

Heritage House Of the 16 historic houses in the downtown area of Kanab, this is the only one open to the public. Built in 1894, this handsome Victorian was purchased by Thomas H. Chamberlain in 1897, and by the city in 1975. The house has been restored to its original appearance and contains household items from the late 1800s, some belonging to the original owners. Allow about 45 minutes.

At 100 South and Main sts. 435/644-3966. www.kanabheritage.com. Admission by donation. June–Sept Mon–Fri 1–5pm. A block south of the intersection of Center and Main sts.

Moqui Cave American Indians known as the Moqui are believed to have used this cave to store food 800 to 900 years ago. Times have changed since then, and so has the cave—the ancient Moqui would be amazed by what they’d find here today. The Chamberlain family, descendants of Thomas and Mary Chamberlain (see Heritage House, above), bought the cave in 1951, and the following year opened a tavern and dance hall in it. Although you can’t order a drink today, the unique bar is still here, along with a huge collection of objects and artifacts that ranges from authentic dinosaur tracks (more than 140 million years old) to a beautiful fluorescent mineral display. You’ll also see Native American pottery, spear points, and other art and artifacts. A large gift shop specializes in Native American arts and crafts.

1508 S. Kanab Creek Dr., on the east side of U.S. 89, about 5 1/2 miles north of Kanab. 435/644-8525. www.moquicave.com. Admission $5 adults, $4.50 seniors 61 and over, $3.50 ages 13–17, $3 children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. Memorial Day to Labor Day Mon–Sat 9am–7pm; winter Mon–Sat 10am–4pm, but check on possible closures.

Where to Stay

In addition to the properties described below, you might consider the moderately priced Best Western Red Hills, 125 W. Center St. ( 800/780-7234 or 435/644-2675; www.bestwesternredhills.com), with rates of $70 to $130 double; the Holiday Inn Express & Suites, 217 S. 100 East ( 888/465-4329 or 435/644-3100; www.hiexpress.com), with rates of $89 to $149 double; or the Rodeway Inn, 70 S. 200 West ( 877/424-6423 or 435/644-5500; www.rodewayinn.com), with rates of $99 to $109 double.

Room tax adds 12%. Pets are not accepted unless otherwise noted.

Parry Lodge ★ Now on the National Register of Historic Places, this is where the stars stayed—Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, John Wayne, Roddy McDowall, James Garner, and Anne Bancroft, to name just a few—while filming in Kanab. In 1931, Chauncey Parry decided to open a motel for the film people who were regularly coming to town. Two chandeliers from Paris hang in the lobby, while about 200 autographed photos of movie stars are scattered about the public areas of the colonial-feel lodge. Doors to the original guest rooms, which make up about a third of all rooms, are each adorned with the name of an actor who stayed here. The newer rooms are larger, but lack the charm of the older, smaller rooms. In summer, free movies that were filmed in Kanab are screened in the lodge’s theater.

89 E. Center St. (U.S. 89), Kanab, UT 84741. www.parrylodge.com. 800/748-4104 or 435/644-2601. Fax 435/644-2605. 89 units, including 3 family units. Summer $72–$95 double, $105–$120 family unit or kitchen apt; winter $49 double, $69 family unit or kitchen apt. Rates include discounted breakfast buffet in summer and continental breakfast in winter. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($10 per night). Amenities: Restaurant; outdoor heated pool; room service; Wi-Fi (free). In room: A/C, TV, kitchen.

Quail Park Lodge ★ This vintage motel is something of a blast from the past (built in 1963)—with the exception of the slick modern rooms and their understated contemporary vibe. A 2010 renovation returned the place to its 1960s splendor, from the dinky pool out front to the landscaping to the unmistakable vintage sign. Rooms feature one or two queens with premium bedding and plush robes; suites have electric fireplaces in the bedrooms. The amenity list is long and cutting-edge and free cruiser bicycles are available for guests.

125 N. 300 West, Kanab, UT 84741. www.quailparklodge.com. 435/215-1447. 13 units, including 2 suites. Summer $79–$119 double, $139 suite; winter $69–$79 double, $99 suite. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Complimentary bikes; small heated outdoor pool (seasonal). In room: A/C, TV/DVD, DVD library, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi (free).

Camping

Kanab RV Corral Open summer only, this well-kept RV park makes a good base camp for exploring the region. The sites—half back-in and half pull-through—are a bit close together, and you do get some highway noise; however, the bathhouses are exceptionally nice (with extra-large shower stalls), the coin-operated laundry is kept spotless, and the small, kidney-shaped pool is pleasant. Additional extras include free Wi-Fi access, a dog run, and horseshoe pits.

483 S. 100 East, U.S. 89A, Kanab, UT 84741. www.kanabrvcorral.com. 435/644-5330. 41 sites. $30. MC, V. Closed Nov to mid-Mar.

Where to Eat

Nedra’s Too MEXICAN Southwest home-style cooking in a friendly, casual atmosphere is what Nedra’s is known for. Choose from tables in the dining room, decorated in Southwestern style, and booths in the adjacent coffee shop. The original Nedra’s opened in 1957 in Fredonia, Arizona (7 miles south of Kanab), and this restaurant, which opened in 1990, carries on the legacy with the first location now closed. The delightful breakfasts, served all day, include the usual ham and eggs, omelets, and pancakes, but there’s also an eye-opening chorizo and eggs, which is made with Mexican sausage, and a delicious huevos rancheros. Lunch and dinner menus offer a variety of charbroiled burgers, such as the Philly (with Swiss cheese, grilled red and green peppers, and Bermuda onions) and several sandwiches. Other options include steaks and seafood, fried chicken, and a wide choice of Mexican dishes, from burritos to enchiladas to fajitas. The house-made salsa is excellent; beer and wine coolers are available with meals.

300 S. 100 East. 435/644-2030. www.nedrascafe.com. Main courses $7–$13 breakfast, $7–$20 lunch and dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Summer daily 7am–10pm; rest of year daily 8am–9pm.

Rewind Diner AMERICAN This diner—bedecked in sparkly red vinyl and plenty of 1950s nostalgia—is the best family restaurant in the vicinity, offering up a nice selection of salads, sandwiches, and pasta dishes for lunch. Dinners include a spicy Cajun rib-eye, chicken dishes, salmon, and barbecue ribs; there are also a few vegetarian options. Beer and wine are served.

18 E. Center St. 435/644-3200. Main courses $5–$11 lunch, $15–$22 dinner. AE, MC, V. Tues–Fri 11am–9pm; Sat 5:30–9pm.

Rocking V Cafe ★★ NEW AMERICAN After 25 years in the television industry, Vicky and Victor Cooper switched gears, bought the old 1892 mercantile in downtown Kanab, and opened this delightfully artsy eatery. The “slow food” prepared in the Rocking V’s kitchen is loaded with fresh ingredients, with an emphasis on great produce—vegan dishes are available. Dinner entrees, such as Thai curry, red trout crusted with cornmeal and pumpkinseeds, and deep-dish enchiladas topped with chili-tomatillo sauce, give you an idea of the breadth of influences driving the menu. Meat-eaters, don’t be discouraged—try the buffalo tenderloin. Everything is made in-house, from the breads to the soups to the mouthwatering desserts. (Top pick: the Key lime pie.) The Coopers’ place is a feast for the eyes as well as the taste buds: Original art hangs on the walls and in the second-story Rafters Gallery, showcasing regional talent.

97 W. Center St. 435/644-8001. www.rockingvcafe.com. Main courses $15–$38. MC, V. Late Mar to late Apr Thurs–Mon 5–9pm; late Apr to Oct daily 5–10pm. Usually closed Nov to late Mar; check the website for current hours.