Chapter 10: Zion National Park

Early Mormon settler Isaac Behunin is credited with naming his homestead “Little Zion” because it seemed to be a bit of heaven on earth. Today, some 150 years later, Zion National Park ★★ still casts a spell over visitors who gaze upon its sheer multicolored walls of sandstone, explore its narrow canyons, hunt for hanging gardens of wildflowers, and listen to the roar of the churning, tumbling Virgin River.

It’s easy to conjure up a single defining image of the Grand Canyon or the delicately sculpted rock hoodoos of Bryce, but pinning down Zion is more difficult. It’s not simply the towering Great White Throne, deep Narrows Canyon, or cascading waterfalls and emerald green pools. You’ll discover an entire smorgasbord of sights, sounds, and even smells here. Take time to discover Zion’s trails, visiting viewpoints at different times of the day to see the changing light, and let the park and nature work its magic.

Because of its extreme range of elevations (3,666–8,726 ft.) and weather (with temperatures soaring over 100°F/38°C in summer and a landscape carpeted by snow in winter), Zion harbors a vast array of plants and animals. Over 900 native species of plants have been found: cactus, yucca, and mesquite in the hot, dry desert areas; ponderosa pines on the high plateaus; and cottonwoods and box elders along the rivers and streams. Of the 14 varieties of cactus that grow in the park, keep an eye out for the red claret cup, which blooms spectacularly in spring. Wildflowers common to the park include manzanita, with tiny pink blossoms; buttercups; and the bright red hummingbird trumpet. You’ll also see the sacred datura—dubbed the “Zion Lily” because of its abundance in the park—with its large funnel-shaped white flowers that open in the cool of night and often close by noon.

While exploring Zion, be sure to watch for “spring lines,” areas where water seeps out of rock, and for the “hanging gardens” that accompany them. Because sandstone is porous, water can percolate down through the rock until it’s stopped by a layer of harder rock. Then the water changes direction, moving horizontally to the rock face, where it seeps out, forming the “spring line” that provides nutrients to whatever seeds the wind delivers, which sprout into “hanging gardens”—plants and flowers you can see clinging to the sides of cliffs.

Aside from the variety of vegetation, Zion is a veritable zoo, with mammals ranging from pocket gophers to mountain lions, hundreds of birds (including golden eagles), lizards of all shapes and sizes, and a dozen species of snakes (only the Great Basin rattlesnake is poisonous, and it usually slithers away from you faster than you can run from it). Mule deer are common, and although seldom seen, there are also a few shy elk and bighorn sheep, plus foxes, coyotes, ringtail cats, beavers, porcupines, skunks, and plenty of squirrels and bats. Practically every summer visitor sees lizards, often the colorful collared and whiptail varieties, and it’s easy to hear the song of the canyon wren and the call of the piñon jay.

Zion National Park

How Nature Painted Zion’s Landscape

Zion National Park is many things to many people: a day hike down a narrow canyon, a rough climb up the face of a massive stone monument, a moment of quiet appreciation as the sun sets with a red glow over majestic peaks. At least to some degree, each of these experiences is possible only because of rocks—their formation, uplifting, shifting, breaking, and eroding. Of Zion’s nine rock layers, the most important in creating the park’s colorful formations is Navajo sandstone—at up to 2,200 feet, the thickest rock layer in the park. This formation was created some 200 million years ago during the Jurassic period, when North America was hot and dry. Movements in the earth’s crust caused a shallow sea to rise up and cover sand dunes. Minerals from the water, including lime from the shells of sea creatures, glued sand particles together, eventually forming sandstone. Later crust movements caused the land to lift, draining away the sea but leaving rivers that gradually carved the relatively soft sandstone into the spectacular shapes seen today.

So where do the colors come from? Essentially, from plain old rust. Most of the rocks at Zion are stained by iron or hematite (iron oxide), either contained in the original stone or carried into the rocks by groundwater. Although iron often creates red and pink hues, seen on many of Zion’s sandstone faces, it can also result in shades of brown, yellow, black, and even green. Sometimes the iron seeps into the rock, coloring it through, but it can also stain just the surface, often in vertical streaks. Deposits of salt left by evaporating water frequently cause white streaks, and rocks are also colored by bacteria that live on their surfaces. These bacteria ingest dust and expel iron, manganese, and other minerals, which stick to the rock and produce a shiny black, brown, or reddish surface called desert varnish.

Just the Facts

Located in southwest Utah, at elevations ranging from 3,666 feet to 8,726 feet, Zion National Park has several sections: Zion Canyon, the main part of the park, where everyone goes, and the less-visited Kolob Terrace and Kolob Canyons areas.

Getting There/Access Points St. George and Cedar City (see chapter 9) are the closest towns with airport service. From either airport, it’s easy to rent a car and drive to Zion. Utah 9 connects with Zion National Park, giving the main section of the park two entry gates—south and east. The drive into Zion Canyon (the main part of the park) from I-15 on the park’s western side, following Utah 9 or Utah 17, and then Utah 9 to the south entrance at Springdale, is by far the more popular, with two-thirds of park visitors arriving there. Most area lodgings and restaurants are found in Springdale, and the park’s two campgrounds and the Zion Canyon Visitor Center are located just inside the south entrance. This approach has the added advantage of avoiding possible delays at the Zion–Mt. Carmel Tunnel. However, this approach is much less scenic than the eastern approach.

From the east, it’s a spectacularly scenic 24-mile drive from Mt. Carmel on Utah 9, reached from either the north or south via U.S. 89. However, be aware that this route into the park drops over 2,500 feet in elevation, passes through the mile-long Zion–Mt. Carmel Tunnel, and winds down six steep switchbacks. The tunnel is too small for two-way traffic for any vehicles larger than standard passenger cars and pickup trucks. Buses, large trucks, and most recreational vehicles must be driven down the center of the tunnel, and therefore, all oncoming traffic must be stopped. This applies to all vehicles over 7 feet 10 inches wide (including mirrors) or 11 feet 4 inches tall (including luggage racks, and so on). Information is available at park entrances or by calling park headquarters ( 435/772-3256). Affected vehicles must pay a $15 fee before entering the tunnel, good for two trips through the tunnel for that vehicle during a 7-day period. All vehicles over 13 feet 1 inch tall and certain other particularly large vehicles are prohibited from driving anywhere on the park road between the east entrance and Zion Canyon.

Kolob Terrace Road, with additional viewpoints and trail heads, heads north off Utah 9 from the village of Virgin, about 15 miles west of the park’s southern entrance. This road is closed in the winter.

The Kolob Canyons section, in the park’s northwest corner, can be reached via the short Kolob Canyons Road off I-15 exit 40.

Some helpful distances: The park is 83 miles southwest of Bryce Canyon National Park; 120 miles northwest of the north rim of Grand Canyon National Park, in northern Arizona; 309 miles south of Salt Lake City; and 158 miles northeast of Las Vegas, Nevada.

Information/Visitor Centers Contact Zion National Park, Springdale, UT 84767 ( 435/772-3256; www.nps.gov/zion). Officials will mail you information (they request that you write rather than call, at least a month before your planned visit), but you will find everything they will send you and more at the park website. You can purchase books, posters, maps, DVDs, and CDs related to the park from the nonprofit Zion Natural History Association, Zion National Park, Springdale, UT 84767 ( 800/635-3959 or 435/772-3265; www.zionpark.org). Some publications are available in foreign languages. Those wanting to help the nonprofit association can join ($45 single or $60 family annually) and get a 20% discount on purchases, a 20% discount on most Zion Canyon Field Institute classes, and discounts at most other nonprofit bookstores at national parks, monuments, historic sites, and recreation areas.

The park has two visitor centers. The Zion Canyon Visitor Center, near the south entrance to the park, has a wide variety of outdoor exhibits. Rangers answer questions and provide backcountry permits; free brochures are available; and books, maps, videos, postcards, and posters are sold. In summer, it is open daily from 8am to 7:30pm, with shorter hours the rest of the year. The Kolob Canyons Visitor Center, in the northwest corner of the park, right off I-15, provides information, permits, books, and maps. It is open from 8am to 6pm in summer, with shorter hours the rest of the year.

The Zion Human History Museum, located about 1 mile inside the south entrance, offers museum exhibits, park information, and an orientation program, plus a bookstore. It’s open daily in summer from 9am to 7pm, with shorter hours at other times.

Both visitor centers and the museum are closed on Christmas Day.

Fees, Backcountry Permits & Regulations Entry into the park (for up to 7 days), which includes unlimited use of the shuttle bus, costs $25 per private car, pickup truck, van, or RV, or $12 per individual 16 or older on motorcycle, bicycle, or foot (maximum charge of $25 per family). America the Beautiful National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Passes are honored. Oversize vehicles are charged $15 for use of the Zion–Mt. Carmel Tunnel on the east side of the park (see “Getting There/Access Points,” above).

Backcountry permits, available at either visitor center, are required for all overnight hikes in the park as well as for any slot canyon hikes. Permits cost $10 for 1 or 2 persons, $15 for 3 to 7, and $20 for 8 to 12 people. Camping costs $16 per night for basic campsites and $18 to $20 per night for sites with electric hookups (located in Watchman Campground).

Bicycles are prohibited in the Zion–Mt. Carmel Tunnel, the backcountry, and on trails, except the Pa’rus Trail. Feeding or disturbing wildlife is forbidden, as are vandalism and disturbing any natural feature of the park. Pets, which must be leashed at all times, are prohibited on all trails (except the Pa’rus Trail, where leashed pets are permitted), in the backcountry, and in public buildings.

Seasons/Avoiding the Crowds The park is open year-round (though visitor centers are closed Christmas Day), 24 hours a day, although weather conditions may limit some activities at certain times. For instance, avoid long hikes in midsummer, when the park bakes under temperatures that can exceed an unbearable 110°F (43°C), or during and immediately after winter storms, when ice and snow at higher elevations can make trails dangerous.

If possible, try to avoid the peak months of June, July, and August, when Zion receives almost half of its annual visitors. The quietest months are December, January, and February, but, of course, it’s cold then; you may have to contend with some snow and ice. A good compromise is to visit in spring or fall, when the weather is usually good and the park is less crowded.

The best way to avoid crowds is to simply walk away from them, either taking the longer and more strenuous hiking trails or hiking into the backcountry. It’s sad but true—most visitors never bother to venture far from the road, and their loss can be your gain. If you’re willing to expend a little energy, you can enjoy a wonderful solitary experience. You can also avoid hordes of tourists by spending time in spectacular Kolob Canyons, in the far northwest section of the park; it receives surprisingly little use, at least compared to Zion Canyon.

Ranger & Educational Programs Rangers present a variety of free programs and activities. Evening programs, which last about 45 minutes, take place most evenings from April through September at the Watchman Campground Amphitheater and Zion Lodge Auditorium. They usually include a slide show, and cover topics such as the animals or plants of the park, geology, the night sky, mankind’s role in the park, or some unique aspect of Zion, like slot canyons. Rangers also give short talks on similar subjects during the day at various locations, including the Zion Lodge auditorium and the Zion Human History Museum. Ranger-guided hikes and walks, which may require reservations, might take you to little-visited areas of the park, on a trek to see wildflowers, or on a night hike under a full moon. These range from easy to very difficult. Rangers also lead shuttle tours during summer. The 2-hour “Ride with a Ranger” trip offers an opportunity to see the scenic drive and learn about Zion Canyon from a park ranger’s perspective. Schedules of the various activities are posted on bulletin boards at the visitor centers, campgrounds, and other locations.

Children up to 12 years old can join the Junior Rangers/Explorers ★★ and participate in a variety of hands-on activities, earning certificates, pins, and patches. Morning and afternoon sessions, each lasting 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours, take place daily from Memorial Day through Labor Day, with children meeting at the Zion Nature Center, near the entrance to South Campground.

The Zion Canyon Field Institute, operated by the nonprofit Zion Natural History Association, Zion National Park, Springdale, UT 84767 ( 800/635-3959, 435/772-3265, or 435/772-3264 for the Field Institute; www.zionpark.org), offers a variety of single and multiday outdoor workshops and classes, including the highly recommended photo workshops, which are led by institute director Michael Plyler. Fees for most of the 1-day programs start at $35, and multiday programs cost from $100 to $300.

Seeing the Highlights

The best way to see Zion is to spend a week here, starting by exploring the visitor center displays and programs, and then riding the shuttle bus to the various viewpoints (or driving in the off season). Gradually work up from short hikes and walks to full-day and overnight treks into the backcountry. That’s the ideal, but for most visitors, time and finances dictate a shorter visit.

If you have only a day or two at the park, head first to the Zion Canyon Visitor Center for the orientation video and exhibits, and then talk with a ranger about the amount of time you have, your abilities, and interests. A brief visit to the Zion Human History Museum will give you a little more insight into humanity’s role—historically and currently—in Zion. Because Zion offers such a variety of landscapes and activities, you can easily create your own itinerary. If your goal is to see as much of the park as possible in 1 full day, consider the following:

After a quick stop at the visitor center, hop on the free shuttle bus, which runs during the high season and takes you to the major roadside viewpoints. You can get off, look at the formations, take a short walk if you like, and then catch the next shuttle for a ride to the next stop.

You can get off the shuttle at the Temple of Sinawava and take the easy 2-mile round-trip Riverside Walk, which follows the Virgin River through a narrow canyon past hanging gardens. Then take the shuttle back to Zion Lodge (total time: 2–4 hr.). At the lodge, stop by the gift shop and perhaps have lunch in the excellent restaurant.

Near the lodge is the trail head for the Emerald Pools ★. Especially pleasant on hot days, this easy walk through a forest of oak, maple, fir, and cottonwood trees leads to a waterfall, hanging garden, and the shimmering lower pool. This part of the walk should take about an hour round-trip, but those with a bit more time may want to add another hour and another mile to the loop by taking the moderately strenuous hike on a rocky, steeper trail to the upper pool. If you still have time and energy, head back to the south park entrance and stop at Watchman (east of Watchman Campground), for the 2-mile, 2-hour round-trip, moderately strenuous hike to a plateau with beautiful views of several rock formations and the town of Springdale. In the evening, try to take in a campground amphitheater program.

Wildlife Viewing

The earlier in the day you get out on the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, the better chance you’ll have of seeing wildlife.

Exploring Zion by Shuttle or Car

If you enter Zion from the east, along the steep Zion–Mt. Carmel Highway, you’ll travel 13 miles through the park to the Zion Canyon Visitor Center, passing Checkerboard Mesa, a massive sandstone rock formation covered with horizontal and vertical lines that make it look like a huge fishing net. Continuing on, a fairyland of fantastically shaped rocks of red, orange, tan, and white, as well as the Great Arch of Zion, carved high in a stone cliff, will come into view.

A shuttle-bus system has been implemented in the main section of the park to reduce traffic congestion and the resultant problems of pollution, noise, and damage to park resources. The shuttle system consists of two loops: one in the town of Springdale and the other along Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, with the loops connecting at the visitor center. From April through October, access to the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive (above Utah 9) is limited to shuttle buses, hikers, and bikers. The only exception: overnight Zion Lodge guests and tour buses connected with the lodge, which have access as far as the lodge. Shuttles run frequently—about every 6 minutes at peak times—and have room for packs, coolers, strollers, and two bicycles. In winter, when the fewest number of visitors are here, you are permitted to drive the full length of Zion Canyon Scenic Drive in your own vehicle.

Those driving into the park at the northwest corner will find a short scenic drive open year-round. The Kolob Canyons Road (about 45 min. from Zion Canyon Visitor Center at I-15, exit 40) runs 5 miles among spectacular red and orange rocks, ending at a high vista. Allow about 45 minutes round-trip, and get a copy of the Kolob Canyons Road Guide at the Kolob Visitor Center. Here’s what you’ll pass along the way:

Leaving Kolob Canyons Visitor Center, drive along the Hurricane Fault to Hurricane Cliffs, a series of tall, gray cliffs composed of limestone, and onward to Taylor Creek, where a piñon-juniper forest clings to the rocky hillside, providing a home to the bright blue scrub jay. Your next stop is Horse Ranch Mountain, which, at 8,726 feet, is the national park’s highest point. Passing a series of colorful rock layers, where you might be lucky enough to spot a golden eagle, your next stop is Box Canyon, along the south fork of Taylor Creek, with sheer rock walls soaring over 1,500 feet high. Next you’ll see a multicolored layer of rock, pushed upward by tremendous forces from within the earth.

Continue until you reach a canyon, which exposes a rock wall that likely began as a sand dune before being covered by an early sea and cemented into stone. Next stop is a side canyon, with large, arched alcoves crowned with delicate curved ceilings. Head on to a view of Timber Top Mountain, which has a sagebrush-blanketed desert at its base but is covered with stately fir and ponderosa pine at its peak. Watch for mule deer on the brushy hillsides, especially between October and March, when they might be spotted just after sunrise or before sunset.

From here, continue to Rockfall Overlook; a large scar on the mountainside marks the spot where a 1,000-foot chunk of stone crashed to the earth in July 1983, the victim of erosion. And finally, stop to see the canyon walls themselves, colored orange-red by iron oxide and striped black by mineral-laden water running down the cliff faces.

Impressions

Nothing can exceed the wondrous beauty of Zion . . . in the nobility and beauty of the sculptures, there is no comparison.

—Geologist Clarence Dutton, 1880

Outdoor Pursuits

Guided hiking, rock climbing, and biking trips in the park and surrounding area are offered by several reliable local companies, including Zion Adventure Company, 36 Lion Blvd., at the corner of Lion Boulevard and Zion Park Boulevard, Springdale ( 435/772-1001; www.zionadventures.com), and Zion Rock & Mountain Guides, 1458 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale ( 435/772-3303; www.zionrockguides.com). Zion Cycles, 868 Zion Park Blvd., behind Zion Pizza & Noodle, Springdale ( 435/772-0400; www.zioncycles.com), rents, repairs, and advises about mountain and road bikes. In the park, the free shuttle offers the best way to reach trail heads.

Biking & Mountain Biking

Although bikes are prohibited on all trails and forbidden to travel cross-country within the national park boundaries, two developments have helped Zion become one of America’s few bike-friendly national parks.

The Pa’rus Trail runs 2 miles along the Virgin River from the South Campground entrance to Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, near its intersection with the Zion–Mt. Carmel Highway. Along the way, the trail crosses the North Fork of the Virgin River and several creeks, and provides good views of Watchman, West Temple, the Sentinel, and other lower canyon formations. The paved trail is open to bicyclists, pedestrians, and those with strollers or wheelchairs, but is closed to motor vehicles.

Bikes are permitted on the park’s established roads at any time, except in the Zion–Mt. Carmel tunnel, where they are always prohibited. From April through October, Zion Canyon Scenic Drive north of the Zion–Mt. Carmel Highway is open only to shuttle buses, bicyclists, and hikers, plus tour buses and motorists going to Zion Lodge. The rest of the year, the road is open to private motor vehicles, and the shuttle buses don’t run. Bicyclists should stay to the right to allow shuttle buses to pass.

On Bureau of Land Management and state-owned property just outside the park, mountain bikers will find numerous rugged jeep trails that are great for mountain biking, plus more than 70 miles of slickrock cross-country trails and single-track trails. Gooseberry Mesa, above the community of Springdale, is generally considered the best mountain-biking destination in the area, but good trails can be found on nearby Wire and Grafton mesas.

Talk with the knowledgeable staff at Zion Cycles (above) about the best trails for your interests and abilities. This full-service bike shop offers maps, a full range of bikes and accessories, repairs, and rentals ($38–$55 for a full day, $28–$45 for a half-day).

For guided mountain or road bike trips, contact Zion Adventure Company (above). A guided hike and road bike trip into the park costs $139 for a half-day and $179 for a full day, per person for two people, with lower per-person rates for larger groups. Zion Rock & Mountain Guides (above) also offers guided mountain bike excursions outside the national park at similar rates.

Hiking

Zion offers a wide variety of hiking trails, ranging from easy half-hour walks on paved paths to grueling overnight hikes over rocky terrain. Hikers with a fear of heights should be especially careful when choosing trails; many include steep, dizzying drop-offs. Below are a variety of hiking suggestions.

The Weeping Rock Trail, among the park’s shortest trails, is a .4-mile round-trip walk from the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive to a rock alcove with a spring and hanging gardens of ferns and wildflowers. Although paved, the trail is steep and not suitable for wheelchairs.

Another short hike is the Lower Emerald Pools Trail ★★, an easy 1-hour walk. If you want to extend your trip to a moderately strenuous 2-hour hike, you can continue along the loop. A .6-mile paved path from the Emerald Pools parking area through a forest of oak, maple, fir, and cottonwood leads to a waterfall, a hanging garden, and the Lower Emerald Pool, and is suitable for those in wheelchairs, with assistance. From here, a steeper, rocky trail (not appropriate for wheelchairs) continues past cactus, yucca, and juniper another .5 mile to Upper Emerald Pool, with another waterfall. A third pool, just above Lower Emerald Pool, offers impressive reflections of the cliffs. The pools are named for the green color of the water, which is caused by algae.

A particularly scenic hike is the Hidden Canyon Trail, a 2.4-mile moderately strenuous round-trip hike that takes about 3 hours. Starting at the Weeping Rock parking area, the trail climbs 850 feet through a narrow water-carved canyon, with a small natural arch upstream from the mouth of the canyon. Hidden Canyon Trail includes long drop-offs and is not recommended for anyone with a fear of heights.

Another moderately strenuous but relatively short hike is the Watchman Trail, which starts near the transit/visitor center. This 2.7-mile round-trip hike gets surprisingly little use, possibly because it can be very hot in midday. Climbing to a plateau near the base of the formation called the Watchman, it offers splendid views of lower Zion Canyon, the Towers of the Virgin, and West Temple formations.

For a strenuous 4-hour, 5.4-mile round-trip hike—one that’s definitely not for anyone with even a mild fear of heights—take the Angels Landing Trail to a summit that offers spectacular views into Zion Canyon, with the Virgin River gently bending around three sides at the bottom of the canyon, the Great White Throne and Red Arch Mountain to the southeast, and the entrance to the Narrows beyond the Temple of Sinawava to the north. But be prepared: The final .5 mile follows a narrow, knife-edge trail along a steep ridge, where footing can be slippery even under the best of circumstances. Support chains have been set along parts of the trail. Shortly before reaching the head of the canyon, a series of 21 switchbacks has been built into a cleft in the wall; these are regarded as one of the engineering marvels of the park.

Hiking the Narrows ★★ is not really hiking a trail at all, but involves walking or wading along the bottom of the Virgin River, through a stunning 1,000-foot-deep chasm that, at a mere 20 feet wide, definitely lives up to its name. Passing fancifully sculptured sandstone arches, hanging gardens, and waterfalls, this moderately strenuous 16-mile one-way hike can be completed in less than a day or in several days, depending on how quickly you want to go.

Warning: The Narrows is not an easy hike by any means. The Narrows is subject to flash flooding and can be very treacherous. Park service officials remind hikers that they are responsible for their own safety and should always check on current water conditions and weather forecasts before heading out. This hike is not recommended when rain is forecast. Hikers should wear sturdy boots or shoes with good ankle support that they won’t mind getting wet, be prepared for cold temperatures with a sweater or jacket, and put everything in waterproof containers. Experienced Narrows hikers also recommend that you take a walking stick to help steady yourself against the strong currents. Sticks are sometimes available near the end of the Riverside Walk, but you’re better off taking your own—hikers are prohibited from cutting tree branches to make walking sticks. Finally, because of the strong currents, park officials recommend that kids under 4' 8" tall not hike in the river. Permits are required for full-day and overnight hikes (check with rangers for details), but are not needed for easy, short day hikes, which you can access from just beyond the end of the Riverside Walk, a 2.2-mile round-trip trail that starts at the Temple of Sinawava parking area.

Horseback Riding

Guided rides in the park are available March through October from Canyon Trail Rides ( 435/679-8665; www.canyonrides.com), with ticket sales and information near Zion Lodge. A 1-hour ride along the Virgin River costs $40; a half-day ride on the Sand Beach Trail costs $75. Riders must weigh no more than 220 pounds, and children must be at least 7 years old for the 1-hour ride and 10 years old for the half-day ride. Reservations are advised.

Rock Climbing

Technical rock climbers like the sandstone cliffs in Zion Canyon, although rangers warn that much of the rock is loose, or “rotten,” and climbing equipment and techniques suitable for granite are often less effective on sandstone. Permits ($10 for 1 or 2 persons, $15 for 3 to 7, and $20 for 8 to 12 people) are required for overnight climbs, and because some routes may be closed at times, climbers should check at the Zion Canyon Visitor Center before setting out. Zion Adventure Company and Zion Rock & Mountain Guides (above) offer a variety of guided rock climbing trips, as well as instruction. Typical per-person rates are $125 for a half-day and $160 for a full day for two people, with lower per-person rates for larger groups. Zion Rock & Mountain Guides also offers equipment rentals and sales.

Swimming

Hikers in the Narrows soon find that they are participating in a watersport, as they wade along the “trail” at the bottom of the Virgin River. Swimming and wading are prohibited in the Emerald Pools. Swimming is permitted south of South Campground amphitheater; check with the visitor center about other areas that would be safe for swimming during your visit. You can also go tubing in the river; Zion Adventure Company (above) rents tubes for $15.

Wildlife Viewing & Bird-Watching

It’s a rare visitor to Zion who doesn’t spot a critter of some sort, from mule deer to the numerous varieties of lizards, including the park’s largest, the chuckwalla, which can grow to 20 inches. The ringtail cat, a relative of the raccoon, prowls Zion Canyon at night and is not above helping itself to your camping supplies. Along the Virgin River, you’ll see bank beavers, so named because they live in burrows dug into riverbanks instead of building dams.

If you’re interested in spotting birds, you’re in luck here. The peregrine falcon, among the world’s fastest birds, sometimes nests in the Weeping Rock area, where you’re also likely to see the dipper, winter wren, and white-throated swift. Also in the park are golden eagles, several species of hummingbirds, ravens, and piñon jays.

Snakes include the poisonous Great Basin rattler, found below 8,000 feet elevation, as well as nonpoisonous kingsnakes and gopher snakes. Tarantulas are often seen in the late summer and fall. Contrary to popular belief, the tarantula’s bite is not deadly, although it can be somewhat painful.

Remember, it’s illegal to feed the wildlife.

Impressions

You can’t see anything from your car. You’ve got to get out of the damn thing and walk!

–Author Edward Abbey

Camping

The best places to camp are at one of the national park campgrounds ★★★ just inside the park’s south entrance. Both of Zion’s main campgrounds have paved roads, well-spaced sites, and lots of trees. Facilities include restrooms with flush toilets but no showers, a dump station, a public telephone, and sites for those with disabilities. The fee is $16 per night for basic sites, or $18 to $20 per night for sites with electric hookups.

South Campground has 127 sites (no hookups) and is usually open from early March through October only. Reservations are not accepted and the campground often fills by noon in summer. Some campers stay at nearby commercial campgrounds their first night in the area, then hurry into the park the next morning, circling like vultures until a site becomes available.

Watchman Campground ( 877/444-6777 or www.recreation.gov for reservations) has 164 sites. Of those, 95 have electric hookups and 69 are available only to those camping in tents. Watchman is open year-round (reservations available spring through fall only).

Lava Point, with only six sites, is located on the Kolob Terrace. It has fire grates, tables, and toilets, but no water and no fee. Vehicles are limited to 19 feet, and it’s usually open from June through mid-October.

Outside the Park

Just outside the east and south park entrances are commercial campgrounds with hot showers and RV hookups. Note that the park’s visitor center, campgrounds, and most of its attractions are closer to the south entrance.

East Zion Riverside RV Park is located in the Best Western East Zion Thunderbird Lodge complex in Mt. Carmel Junction, about 13 miles east of the east entrance to the national park (at the junction of Utah 9 and U.S. 89; 435/648-2203; www.zionnational-park.com). Especially good for self-contained RVs, the park sits along the banks of the Virgin River in the shade of cottonwood trees, and offers campers use of the pool, hot tub, and other amenities at the adjacent Thunderbird Lodge. It has 12 sites, all with hookups, and a dump station. It’s open year-round. The fee is $15 per night.

Zion Canyon Campground ★ is at 479 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, a half-mile south of the park’s south entrance ( 435/772-3237; www.zioncamp.com). It’s open year-round and offers 200 tent and RV sites, many of which are shaded. Although it gets quite crowded in summer, the campground is clean and well maintained. There are some especially large sites for big RVs, and it has a dump station, a swimming pool, a game room, a playground, and a store. Rates range from $30 to $35 for two people.

Where to Stay

The only lodging actually in Zion National Park is Zion Lodge. The other properties listed here are all in Springdale, a village at Zion’s south entrance. Pets are not accepted unless otherwise noted. Room tax adds 10.2% in the park and 12.8% outside the park. For additional information about lodging, dining, and other services in the area, contact the Zion Canyon Visitors Bureau, P.O. Box 331, Springdale, UT 84767 ( 888/518-7070; www.zionpark.com).

In the Park

Zion Lodge ★★★ This handsome lodge is a wonderful place to stay, but the main draw is its location. Built in 1925 by the Union Pacific Railroad, the lodge was destroyed by fire in 1966, then rebuilt and restored to its historic appearance. It’s the only lodging inside the park, and it sits in a valley with spectacular views of the park’s rock cliffs. The charming and genuinely historic cabins are our first choice here. Each has a private porch, stone (gas-burning) fireplace, two queen-size or double beds, and pine walls. The comfortable modern motel units have two queen-size beds and a private porch or balcony. The plush motel suites are spacious, with one king-size bed, a separate sitting room with a queen-size hide-a-bed, and a refrigerator. Ranger programs are presented in the lodge auditorium in summer. All units are nonsmoking.

Zion National Park, UT. www.zionlodge.com. 435/772-7700. Information and reservations: Xanterra Parks & Resorts, Central Reservations, 6312 S. Fiddlers Green Circle, Ste. 600N, Greenwood Village, CO 80111. 888/297-2757 or 303/297-2757. Fax 303/297-3175. 121 units. Mid-Mar to Nov motel rooms $170 double; cabins $180 double; suites $186 double. Discounts (sometimes up to 50% off) and packages available at other times. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants, the Red Rock Grill and Castle Dome Cafe (see reviews). In room: A/C.

Nearby

Best Western East Zion Thunderbird Lodge ★ A well-maintained two-story motel with Southwest decor, the Thunderbird offers quiet, spacious, comfortable rooms, with king- or queen-size beds, wood furnishings, photos or artwork depicting area scenery, and a private balcony or patio. The lodging has a gas station and a convenience store on the premises. All rooms are nonsmoking. Also under the same management, with the same contact information, is a nearby house with two bedrooms, each with their own bathroom, a living room with a fireplace and vaulted ceiling, and a large fully equipped kitchen for $295 for up to six people (minimum 2-day rental). The complex also includes a campground, the East Zion Riverside RV Park. (See “Camping,” above.)

At the junction of Utah 9 and U.S. 89 (P.O. Box 5536), Mt. Carmel Junction, UT 84755. www.zionnational-park.com. 888/848-6358 or 435/648-2203. Fax 435/648-2239. 61 units. May–Oct $114–$129 double; Nov–Apr $73–$83. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant, Thunderbird Restaurant (see review); 9-hole golf course; Jacuzzi; large outdoor heated pool (Apr–Oct only). In room: A/C, TV, fridge (in some), hair dryer, free Wi-Fi.

Best Western Zion Park Inn ★ This is a good choice for those who are seeking an upscale, reliable chain motel. Rooms in the handsome two-story complex, located 1 1/2 miles from the park, are tastefully appointed in Southwest style, with two queen- or one king-size bed, artwork depicting the area, and solid wood furnishings. Especially appealing are the units with pitched, high ceilings, with windows that capture the views of the colorful rock formations outside.

1215 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, UT 84767. www.zionparkinn.com. 800/934-7275 or 435/772-3200. Fax 435/772-2449. 120 units. Mar–Oct $115–$135 double, $140–$180 suite or family unit; Nov–Feb $68–$85 double, $90–$130 suite or family unit. Children 17 and younger stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. 1 pet accepted, for an extra fee of $25. Amenities: Restaurant; sports bar; putting green; Jacuzzi; heated outdoor pool (Mar–Oct only). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.

Canyon Ranch Motel Consisting of a series of two- and four-unit cottages set back from the highway, this motel’s buildings simply ooze charm, with the look of 1930s-style cabins on the outside and modern motel rooms inside. Rooms are either new or newly remodeled, and options include one queen- or king-size bed, two queen-size beds, or one queen-size and one double. Some rooms have showers only, while others have tub/shower combos. Room no. 13, with two queen-size beds, offers spectacular views of the Zion National Park rock formations; views from most other rooms are almost as good. The units surround a lawn with trees and picnic tables. All units are nonsmoking.

668 Zion Park Blvd. (P.O. Box 175), Springdale, UT 84767. www.canyonranchmotel.com. 866/946-6276 or 435/772-3357. 22 units. Apr–Oct $99–$119 double, $139 kitchenette; Nov–Mar $69–$89 double, $109 kitchenette. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted in some units, only 1 or 2 dogs per unit ($24 fee 1st night, $12 2nd night, $6 3rd night). Amenities: Jacuzzi; outdoor pool (Apr–Oct only). In room: A/C, TV, kitchenette (some units), Wi-Fi (free).

Cliffrose Lodge & Gardens ★ With delightful river frontage and 5 acres of lawns, shade trees, and flower gardens, the Cliffrose offers a beautiful setting just outside the entrance to Zion National Park. The architecture is Southwestern adobe style, with redwood balconies, and the outdoor rock waterfall whirlpool tub is a delight, especially in the evening. Modern, well-kept rooms have all the standard motel appointments, and unusually large bathrooms. We especially like the four very luxurious Canyon View Suites, which sleep up to six guests each. On the lawns, you’ll find comfortable seating, a playground, and a lawn swing. All units are nonsmoking.

281 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, UT 84767. www.cliffroselodge.com. 800/243-8824 or 435/772-3234. 50 units. Apr–Oct and holidays $149–$199 per unit; rates lower at other times. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Jacuzzi; large outdoor heated pool (Apr–Oct only). In room: A/C, TV, fridge, Wi-Fi (free).

Desert Pearl Inn ★ This riverside property offers luxurious and comfortable accommodations with beautiful views of the area’s scenery from private terraces or balconies. Spacious rooms are decorated in modern Southwest style, with either two queen- or one king-size bed, and each room also has a queen-size sofa sleeper. Bathrooms are two rooms: One has a tub/shower combo, toilet, and bidet; the other has a closet, vanity, and sink. There are also luxurious suites. The grounds are nicely landscaped. All units are nonsmoking.

707 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, UT 84767. www.desertpearl.com. 888/828-0898 or 435/772-8888. Fax 435/772-8889. 61 units. Summer $158–$188 double, $298 suite; winter $98–$118 double, $198 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Jacuzzi; huge outdoor heated pool (Apr–Oct only). In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Driftwood Lodge Beautiful lawns and gardens enhance this attractive, well-kept motel—a quiet, lush complex perfect for sitting back and admiring the spectacular rock formations that practically surround the town. The spacious rooms have wood-grain furnishings plus patios or balconies. Most standard rooms have two queen-size beds; others have one king-size. Two family suites each have one king-size and two queen-size beds, and the handsome king suites have a separate sitting room, king-size bed, and a microwave. The restaurant has a delightful outdoor patio with splendid views.

1515 Zion Park Blvd. (P.O. Box 447), Springdale, UT 84767. www.driftwoodlodge.net. 888/801-8811 or 435/772-3262. Fax 435/772-3702. 53 units. Apr–Nov $129–$149 double, $169–$209 family unit and suite; Dec–Mar $59–$79 double, $89–$129 family unit and suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted at management’s discretion, $25 fee. Amenities: Restaurant; Jacuzzi; outdoor heated pool (Apr–Oct only). In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Flanigan’s Inn ★★ A mountain-lodge atmosphere suffuses this very attractive complex of natural wood and rock set among trees, lawns, and flowers, just outside the entrance to Zion National Park. This is a place where you will actually want to spend time relaxing. The rooms are artfully decorated in a spalike atmosphere, with top-of-the-line amenities. Most units have decks or patios and large windows overlooking a natural courtyard, including a koi pond, heated pool, and hot tub. Suites have microwaves in addition to small refrigerators, and the two completely furnished villas are beautifully decorated upscale homes separate from the main inn. A nature trail leads to a hilltop labyrinth and spectacular vistas. There is a full-service spa, including a salon and yoga exercise room, and bicycles are available for guests’ use. The inn is 50% wind powered and entirely nonsmoking.

450 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, UT 84767. www.flanigans.com. 800/765-7787 or 435/772-3244. Fax 435/772-3396. 36 units. Mid-Mar through Nov and holidays $129–$169 double, $249–$359 suite and villa; lower rates at other times. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant, Spotted Dog Café (see review); outdoor Jacuzzi; outdoor heated pool (Apr–Oct only); full-service spa. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Harvest House Bed & Breakfast at Zion ★★ Personal touches and yummy breakfasts make this B&B a fine alternative to a standard motel. Built in 1989, the house is Utah territorial-style (similar to Victorian), with a garden sitting area with a koi pond and spectacular views of the national park’s rock formations. Rooms are charming, comfortable, and quiet, with king- or queen-size beds and private bathrooms. The units are furnished with an eclectic mix of contemporary items, and original art dots the walls. One upstairs room faces west and has grand sunset views, while the other two have private decks facing the impressive formations of Zion.

There’s a big-screen TV in the living room with access to some 40 movie channels; and the gourmet breakfasts are sumptuous, with fresh-baked breads, fresh-squeezed orange juice, granola, fruit, yogurt, and a hot main course. All units are nonsmoking.

29 Canyon View Dr., Springdale, UT 84767. www.harvesthouse.net. 800/719-7493 or 435/772-3880. 4 units. $100–$135 double. Rates include full breakfast. DISC, MC, V. Children 7 and older welcome. Amenities: Outdoor Jacuzzi. In room: A/C, no phone, Wi-Fi (free).

Historic Pioneer Lodge and Restaurant ★ Old West ambience and style with modern amenities and comfortable beds are what you’ll find at the Historic Pioneer Lodge. Standard rooms have a homey feel with one king- or two queen-size beds and some of the quietest heating/air conditioning units around (and heating and cooling are remote control). There are 40 rooms and three suites, and all units have rustic log furnishings, good lighting, full carpeting, and granite counters. On the premises is a gift shop selling the work of Southern Utah artists, an Internet cafe, and a reasonably priced restaurant where lodge guests receive a 10% discount during their stay. All units are nonsmoking.

838 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, UT 84767. www.pioneerlodge.com. 888/772-3233 or 435/772-3233. 43 units. Summer $164–$186 double, $208–$329 suite; lower rates the rest of the year. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; Jacuzzi; outdoor heated pool (Apr–Oct only). In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Majestic View Lodge ★★ This place truly lives up to its name: virtually every room at this sprawling complex offers spectacular glimpses of the surrounding scenery. It’s a lovely place to start the day, or to wrap up a long afternoon of hiking, with the added bonus of being very close to the park entrance. The lodge is actually a series of two-story stucco and log buildings, and each unit has its own balcony or patio (perfect for watching the sunset light up the rock formations). The spotless rooms are furnished with rustic aspen decor, including either a king bed or two queen beds, and the deluxe suites have kitchenettes. Spend some time at the restaurant or saloon—both sharing the excellent views—or visit the lodge’s sprawling trading post and wildlife museum. There’s free shuttle service to the park.

2400 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale, UT 84767. www.majesticviewlodge.com. 866/772-0665 or 435/772-0665. 69 units. Apr–Oct $159–$169 double; Nov–Mar $89 double. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; brewpub; Jacuzzi; heated outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, Wi-Fi (free).

Under the Eaves Inn ★★ This romantic 1931 home, located in the heart of Springdale, offers handsomely decorated historic rooms, beautiful gardens and shade trees, and spectacular views from what innkeepers Joe Pitti and Mark Chambers call “the best front porch in Utah.” The units range from the basic Hiker’s Room to a luxurious suite—covering 1,200 square feet, it has a vaulted ceiling, a wood-burning stove, a kitchenette, and a claw-foot tub plus separate shower. The cute Garden Cottage, built in 1928, was moved here from inside the national park. It contains two small but comfortable rooms on the main floor, and the more rustic, lower level Hiker’s Room. Breakfast is off the menu at nearby Oscar’s Cafe, served from 7 to 11am. All units are nonsmoking.

980 Zion Park Blvd. (P.O. Box 29), Springdale, UT 84767. www.undertheeaves.com. 866/261-2655 or 435/772-3457. 6 units. $85–$150 double; $185 suite. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Children allowed at management’s discretion. In room: A/C, no phone, Wi-Fi (free).

Zion Park Motel This economical motel is a good choice for travelers on a budget, offering comfortable, attractively furnished rooms with showers or tub/shower combos. Standard rooms are a bit small, especially with the refrigerator and microwave they all have, but the light-colored wood furnishings and walls help make them feel bigger. The one king- or two queen-size beds have colorful spreads, and art depicting the region decorates the walls. The family units sleep six. All units are nonsmoking.

865 Zion Park Blvd. (P.O. Box 365), Springdale, UT 84767. www.zionparkmotel.com. 435/772-3251. 21 units. $84 double; $104–$149 family unit and suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Outdoor heated pool (Apr–Oct only). In room: A/C, TV, fridge, full kitchen (in 2 units), Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat

With the exception of the Castle Dome Cafe and the Red Rock Grill, these restaurants are all located on the main road to the park through Springdale.

In the Park

Castle Dome Cafe SNACK BAR Located at the north end of Zion Lodge, this simple fast food restaurant offers an outdoor dining patio serving cinnamon buns, burgers, sandwiches, hot dogs, pizza, ice cream, frozen yogurt, and similar fare. No alcoholic beverages are served.

Zion Lodge, Zion National Park. 435/772-3213. Menu items $3.75–$9.95. No credit cards. Summer daily 7am–9pm; shorter hours the rest of the year.

Red Rock Grill ★★ AMERICAN Try to have at least one meal here during your national park vacation. The restaurant’s mountain lodge decor competes for your attention with the spectacular rock formations, visible through the dining room’s large windows; for an even better view, dine on the outside patio. The menu changes periodically, but breakfasts usually offer all the usuals, including a good buffet. At lunch, you’ll likely find a buffet or two, plus items such as chicken salad and grilled salmon or beef burgers. Specialties at dinner might include the excellent Santa Fe flatiron steak (grilled and topped with pico de gallo and fried onions), a bison rib-eye steak with a potato medley, grilled pork loin with prickly pear sauce, slow-cooked baby back ribs, plus seafood and pasta. We heartily recommend the lodge’s specialty desserts, such as the bourbon pecan pie or turtle Bundt cake. There is full liquor service.

Zion Lodge, Zion National Park. 435/772-7760. www.zionlodge.com. Dinner reservations required in summer. Main courses $4–$10 breakfast, $8–$12 lunch, $14–$29 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6:30–10:30am, 11:30am–3pm, and 5–10pm.

Nearby

Bit & Spur Restaurant & Saloon ★★ MEXICAN/SOUTHWESTERN Rough wood-and-stone walls and an exposed-beam ceiling give this restaurant the look of an Old West saloon. It’s actually much more than that, with a family dining room, patio dining, and original art decorating the walls. The food here is also a lot better than you’ll find in the average saloon, closer to what we expect in an upscale Santa Fe restaurant. The menu changes seasonally, but usually includes Mexican standards such as burritos, flautas, chiles rellenos, and a traditional green-chili stew with pork and rice. You’ll also often find seafood, such as grilled salmon, and our personal favorite, grilled chili-rubbed rib-eye steak with a port wine and blue cheese demiglace. The Bit & Spur has full liquor service—try the fresh fruit margaritas—an extensive wine list, and an excellent variety of microbrewed beers.

1212 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale. 435/772-3498. www.bitandspur.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $12–$25. AE, DISC, MC, V. Spring–fall daily 5–10pm; call for winter hours.

Spotted Dog Café ★★ AMERICAN/REGIONAL This restaurant’s art-filled interior makes the most of the scenery, with large windows for inside diners plus a Euro-style outdoor patio with spectacular views of Zion Canyon. Selections vary by season and may include Rocky Mountain trout, lamb, free-range poultry, hormone-free beef, environmentally farmed fish, hearty pastas, fresh summer salads, plus local specialties. There is also a surprisingly healthy children’s menu. It offers an express breakfast buffet daily at 7am featuring country potatoes, bacon, link sausage, plus selections of eggs, cereals, pastries, yogurt, fresh fruit, French toast, waffles, and freshly baked specialties. The Spotted Dog has an excellent wine cellar, microbrewed draft beers, and complete liquor service.

At Flanigan’s Inn, 428 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale. 435/772-0700. Reservations recommended. Main courses $12–$26. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7–11am and 5–9pm; reduced hours in winter.

Zion Park Gift & Deli ★ DELI Want a top quality sandwich at an economical price? This is the place. You can eat at one of the cafe-style tables inside or on the patio outside, or you can carry your sandwich off on a hike or to a national park picnic ground. All baked goods, including the excellent sandwich breads and sub rolls, are made in-house. In typical deli style, you order at the counter and wait as your sandwich is prepared with your choice of bread, meats, cheeses, and condiments. This is also a good breakfast stop for those who enjoy fresh-baked cinnamon rolls, muffins, banana nut bread, and similar goodies, with a cup of espresso. Locally made candy, including 14 flavors of excellent fudge, and 24 flavors of ice cream and frozen yogurt are offered. No alcohol is served.

866 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale. 435/772-3843. All items $4.95–$10. DISC, MC, V. Summer Mon–Sat 8:30am–9:30pm; reduced hours in winter.

Zion Pizza & Noodle ★ PIZZA/PASTA A local favorite, this busy cafe offers good pizza and pasta in a funky atmosphere—a former Mormon church with a turquoise steeple. The dining room has small, closely spaced tables and black-and-white photos on the walls. You find your own table, place your order at the counter, and a server delivers it. The pizzas, with lots of chewy crust, are baked in a slate stone oven. Choose one of the house favorites, such as the Southwest burrito pizza or barbecue chicken pizza, or create your own by adding any of the more than 20 extra toppings, from pepperoni to green chilies to pineapple. The menu also offers pastas, calzones, and stromboli. Beer is served inside and in the delightful year-round beer garden.

868 Zion Park Blvd., Springdale. 435/772-3815. www.zionpizzanoodle.com. Reservations not accepted. Entrees $11–$16. No credit cards. Summer daily from 4pm; call for winter hours.

What to See & Do in Nearby Springdale

Just outside the south entrance to Zion National Park, in Springdale, are two worthwhile attractions.

The Tanner Twilight Concert Series presents a varied performing arts program in the stunning, 2,000-seat outdoor Tanner Amphitheater, just off Zion Park Boulevard. Performances range from symphony orchestra concerts and dance performances to rock, jazz, and gospel concerts. Shows begin at 8pm many Saturdays throughout the summer, and cost $10 for adults and $5 for youths (18 and younger). For information, contact Dixie State College, in St. George ( 435/652-7994; www.dixie.edu/tanner/index.html).

The Zion Canyon Theatre, 145 Zion Park Blvd. ( 888/256-3456 or 435/772-2400; www.zioncanyontheatre.com), boasts a huge screen—some 60 feet high by 82 feet across. Here you can see the dramatic film Zion Canyon: Treasure of the Gods, with thrilling scenes of the Zion National Park area, including a hair-raising flash flood through Zion Canyon’s Narrows and some dizzying bird’s-eye views. The theater also shows a variety of other Hollywood and large-format films. Admission is $8 adults and $6 children under 12. The theater is open daily from 11am in summer; call for winter hours. The theater complex also contains a tourist information center, an ATM, a picnic area, gift and souvenir shops, restaurants, and a grocery store.