Chapter 12: Capitol Reef National Park

Capitol Reef National Park is one of those undiscovered gems, its rangers quietly going about their business while visitors flock to its more famous neighbors, Bryce Canyon and Zion.

But when people do stumble across this park, they are often amazed. Capitol Reef not only offers spectacular southern Utah scenery with lots of fascinating rock formations, but it also has a unique twist and a personality all its own.

What Makes Capitol Reef So Special?

Capitol Reef is a place to let your imagination run wild. You’ll see the appropriately named Hamburger Rocks, sitting atop a white sandstone table; the tall, rust-red Chimney Rock; the silent and eerie Temple of the Moon; and the commanding Castle. The colors of Capitol Reef’s canyon walls draw from a spectacular palette, which is why Navajos called the area “the Land of the Sleeping Rainbow.”

But unlike some of southern Utah’s other parks, Capitol Reef is more than just brilliant rocks and barren desert. The Fremont River has helped create a lush oasis in an otherwise unforgiving land, with cottonwoods and willows along its banks. In fact, 19th-century pioneers found the land so inviting and the soil so fertile that they established the community of Fruita, planting orchards that have been preserved by the Park Service.

Because of differences in geologic strata, elevation, and availability of water in various sections of the park, an assortment of ecosystems and terrains, as well as a variety of activities, coexist. There are hiking trails, mountain-biking trails, and four-wheel-drive touring roads; a lush fruit orchard; desert wildflowers and rich, green forests; an abundance of songbirds; and a surprising amount of wildlife—from lizards and snakes to the bashful ringtail cat (a member of the raccoon family). Throughout the park, you’ll find thousand-year-old petroglyphs, and traces of the more recent Ute and Southern Paiute, Wild West outlaws, and industrious Mormon pioneers (in the one-room Fruita Schoolhouse, their children learned the three Rs and studied the Bible and Book of Mormon).

The name Capitol Reef, which conjures up an image of a tropical shoreline, seems odd for a park composed of cliffs and canyons and situated in landlocked Utah. But many of the pioneers who settled the West were former seafaring men, and they extended the traditional meaning of the word reef to include these seemingly impassable rock barriers. The huge round white domes of sandstone reminded them of the domes of capitol buildings, and so this area became known as Capitol Reef.

A more accurate name for the park might be “the Big Fold.” When the earth’s crust lifted some 60 million years ago, creating the Rocky Mountains and the Colorado Plateau, most of the lifting was relatively even. But here, through one of those fascinating quirks of nature, the crust wrinkled into a huge fold. Running for 100 miles, almost all within the national park, it’s known as the Waterpocket Fold.

Just the Facts

Getting There Capitol Reef National Park is 120 miles northeast of Bryce Canyon National Park, 204 miles northeast of Zion National Park, 224 miles south of Salt Lake City, and 366 miles northeast of Las Vegas, Nevada. The park straddles Utah 24, which connects with I-70 both to the northeast and northwest.

Those coming from Bryce Canyon National Park (see chapter 11) can follow Utah 12 northeast to its intersection with Utah 24, and follow that east into Capitol Reef. If you’re approaching the park from Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and the Four Corners region, follow Utah 276 and/or Utah 95 north to the intersection with Utah 24, where you then head west into the park.

The closest major airport is Grand Junction Regional Airport, about 200 miles east in Grand Junction, Colorado ( 970/244-9100; www.gjairport.com). It has direct flights or connections from most major cities on Allegiant, American/American Eagle, Continental, Delta, United, and US Airways. Car rentals are available at the airport from Alamo ( 970/243-3097; www.alamo.com), Avis ( 970/244-9170; www.avis.com), Budget ( 970/244-9170; www.budget.com), Enterprise ( 970/254-1700; www.enterprise.com), Hertz ( 970/243-0747; www.hertz.com), and National ( 970/243-6626; www.nationalcar.com).

Information/Visitor Center For advance information, contact Capitol Reef National Park, HC 70 Box 15, Torrey, UT 84775 ( 435/425-3791, ext. 4111; www.nps.gov/care).

The visitor center is located on the park access road at its intersection with Utah 24. A path alongside the access road connects the visitor center with the campground, passing the historic Fruita blacksmith shop, the orchards, and a lovely shaded picnic ground. The visitor center, open daily from 8am to 6pm in summer (shorter hours at other times), has exhibits on the area’s geology and history as well as a 10-minute introductory slide show on the park. You can ask the rangers questions, get backcountry permits, pick up free brochures, and purchase books, maps, videos, postcards, and posters. The Ripple Rock Nature Center, located about 3⁄4 mile south of the visitor center along the Scenic Drive, offers exhibits and activities especially for children. It’s open from Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day weekend only. Check at the visitor center for its current hours.

Books and maps are available from the nonprofit Capitol Reef Natural History Association, Capitol Reef National Park, HC 70 Box 15, Torrey, UT 84775 ( 435/425-4106; www.capitolreefnha.org).

Fees, Regulations & Backcountry Permits Entry to the park is free, although it costs $5 per vehicle (including motorcycles) or $3 per person on foot or bicycle to access the scenic drive beyond the main campground (pass valid for up to 7 days). Free backcountry permits (available at the visitor center) are required for all overnight hikes.

Bicycles are prohibited in the backcountry and on all hiking trails. Feeding or otherwise disturbing wildlife is forbidden, as is vandalizing or upsetting any natural, cultural, or historic feature of the park. Because park wildlife refuse to follow park rules regarding wildlife diet, campers should be especially careful of where they store food and should dispose of garbage promptly. Dogs, which must be leashed at all times, are prohibited on all trails, more than 100 feet from any road, and in public buildings.

Capitol Reef National Park

Seasons/Avoiding the Crowds Although Capitol Reef receives fewer than 700,000 visitors annually—not many compared to big name parks like Grand Canyon and Yellowstone—it can still be busy, especially during the peak summer season. For this reason, the best time to visit is fall, particularly October and November, when temperatures remain warm enough for comfortable hiking and camping, but are not so hot that they’ll send you constantly in search of shade. You also don’t have to be as cautious about flash floods through the narrow canyons as you do during the July-through-September thunderstorm season.

Safety Hikers should carry plenty of water, especially in summer, and watch out for rattlesnakes, which have been seen in the rocks of the Grand Wash and around Fruita. Afternoon thunderstorms in July, August, and September can bring flash floods, which fill narrow canyons without warning. Steep-walled Grand Wash can be particularly hazardous—avoid it whenever storms are threatening.

Ranger Programs Rangers present a variety of free programs and activities from spring through fall. Campfire programs take place most evenings at the outdoor amphitheater next to Fruita Campground. Topics vary, but could include animals and plants, geology, and human history in and of the area. Rangers also lead hikes and walks and give short talks on history at the pioneer Fruita Schoolhouse. Schedules are posted on bulletin boards at the visitor center and campground.

Kids can become Junior Rangers or Junior Geologists—they’ll learn to map ancient earthquakes, inspect water bugs, and so on. Get details at the visitor center.

Seeing the Highlights by Car

As with most national parks, it would be easy to spend a week or more here, hiking the trails, admiring the views, and loafing about the campground. However, those with a limited amount of time, and those who prefer the comfort of a car to the demands of the hiking trail, will still find Capitol Reef relatively easy to explore.

Start at the visitor center and watch a short slide show explaining the park’s geology and early history. From the center, the paved 25-mile round-trip Scenic Drive leads south into the park, offering good views of dramatic canyons and rock formations. Pick up a copy of the Scenic Drive brochure ($2 at the visitor center) and set out, stopping at viewpoints to admire the colorful cliffs, monoliths, and commanding rock formations.

If the weather’s dry, drive down the gravel Capitol Gorge Road (5 miles round-trip) at the end of the paved Scenic Drive for a look at what many consider the best backcountry scenery in the park. If you’re up for a short walk, the relatively flat 2-mile (round-trip) Capitol Gorge Trail, which starts at the end of Capitol Gorge Road, takes you to the historic Pioneer Register, a rock wall where traveling pioneers “signed in.”

Another dry-weather driving option is the Grand Wash Road, a maintained dirt road that’s subject to flash floods, but in good weather offers an easy route into spectacular backcountry. Along the 2-mile round-trip, you reach Cassidy Arch; famed outlaw Butch Cassidy is said to have hidden out nearby.

Utah 24, which crosses Capitol Reef from east to west, also has several viewpoints offering good looks at the park’s features, such as monumental Capitol Dome, which resembles the dome of a capitol building; the aptly named Castle formation; the historic Fruita Schoolhouse; and some roadside petroglyphs left by the prehistoric Fremont people.

Butch Cassidy: Utah’s Most Infamous Son

Robert LeRoy Parker was born into a hardworking Mormon family, in the little Southwestern Utah town of Beaver, on April 13, 1866. The oldest of 13 children, Robert was said to be a great help to his mother, and worked on the small ranch his parents bought near Circleville, about 50 miles north of Bryce Canyon.

It was in Circleville where the problems began. Teenager Robert fell in with some rather unsavory characters, including one Mike Cassidy, the ne’er-do-well role model who reportedly gave the youth his first gun, and presumably from whom young Robert took the alias “Cassidy.” The boy made his way to Telluride, Colorado, worked for one of the mines there for a while, and then wandered up to Wyoming. He made his way back to Telluride—and, strangely enough, the Telluride bank was robbed. Butch Cassidy had officially begun his life of crime.

In the following years, Butch—who gained the nickname after a short stint working in a butcher shop—became an expert at rustling cattle, robbing banks, and, his ultimate glory, robbing trains. Butch wanted to call his gang the Train Robbers Syndicate, but they raised such hell in celebration of their economic successes that saloonkeepers in Vernal and other Utah towns began calling them “that wild bunch,” and the name stuck. The Wild Bunch would travel through Utah, hiding out in the desolate badlands that were to become Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef, and Canyonlands national parks. Capitol Reef’s Cassidy Arch was named after Butch; this area was supposedly one of his favorite hiding places.

If you’ve seen the 1969 movie Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, with Paul Newman and Robert Redford, you can’t forget the spectacular scene in which Butch and his cohorts blow the door off a railroad car. Then they use way too much dynamite to open the safe, sending bills flying into the air. Apparently, the story is basically true, having taken place on June 2, 1899, near Wilcox, Wyoming. According to reports of the day, they got away with $30,000.

The Union Pacific Railroad took exception to Butch’s antics. When the posse started getting a bit too close, Butch, Sundance, and Sundance’s lady friend, Etta Place (Katharine Ross in the film), took off for South America, where it’s said they continued a life of crime for a half dozen or so years. There are also some stories—unconfirmed—that it was in South America that Butch first killed anyone.

According to some historians (as well as the movie), Butch and Sundance were shot dead in a gun battle with army troops in Bolivia in 1908. But some believe that Butch returned to the United States, visited friends and family in Utah and Wyoming, and eventually settled in Spokane, Washington, where he lived a peaceful life under the name William T. Phillips until he died of cancer in 1937.

Petroglyphs to Pioneers: Capitol Reef’s Historic Sites

Throughout the park is scattered evidence of man’s presence through the centuries. The Fremont people lived along the river as early as a.d. 700, staying until about a.d. 1300. Primarily hunters and gatherers, the Fremont also grew corn, beans, and squash to supplement their diet; when they abandoned the area, they left little behind. They lived in pit houses, so called because they were dug into the ground—the remains of one can be seen from the Hickman Bridge Trail. Many of the Fremont people’s petroglyphs (images carved into rock) and some pictographs (images painted on rock) are still visible on the canyon walls. If you could read them, they might even say why these early Americans left the area—a puzzle that continues to baffle historians and archaeologists.

Fast-forwarding to the 19th century, prospectors and other travelers passed through the Capitol Gorge section of the park in the late 1800s, leaving their names on a wall of rock that came to be known as the Pioneer Register. You can reach it via a 2-mile loop.

Mormon pioneers established the appropriately named community of Fruita when it was discovered that this was a good locale for growing fruit. The tiny 1896 Fruita Schoolhouse served as a church, social hall, and community-meeting hall, in addition to functioning as a one-room schoolhouse. The school closed in 1941, but it was carefully restored by the National Park Service in 1984 and is authentically furnished with old wood and wrought-iron desks, a woodstove, a chalkboard, and textbooks. The hand bell used to call students to class still rests on the corner of the teacher’s desk. Nearby, the orchards planted by the Mormon settlers continue to flourish, tended by park workers who invite you to sample the “fruits” of their labors.

The historic Gifford Farmhouse, built in 1908, is a typical early-20th-century Utah farmhouse. Located about a mile south of the visitor center, the authentically renovated and furnished farmhouse is open daily from mid-April through September. In addition to displays of period objects, there are often demonstrations of early homemaking skills and crafts, such as quilting and rug making. Park across the road at the picnic area; a short path leads to the farmhouse.

Outdoor Pursuits

Among the last areas in the continental United States to be explored, many parts of Capitol Reef National Park are still practically unknown, perfect for those who want to see this rugged country in its natural state. Several local companies offer guide services, both in the national park and nearby. Hondoo Rivers and Trails, 90 E. Main St., Torrey ( 800/332-2696 or 435/425-3519; www.hondoo.com), offers multiday horseback trail rides plus half- and full-day hiking and four-wheel-drive tours, including special tours for photographers and expeditions to rock art sites, plus shuttle services for hikers and mountain bikers. Backcountry Outfitters, 677 E. Utah 12, Torrey ( 866/747-3972 or 435/425-2010; www.ridethereef.com), offers a variety of guided trips, including hiking, canyoneering, biking, fishing, horseback riding, and four-wheel-drive excursions.

Four-Wheel Touring & Mountain Biking

As in most national parks, bikes and four-wheel-drive vehicles are restricted to established roads, but Capitol Reef has several so-called roads—actually little more than dirt trails—that provide exciting opportunities for those using 4×4s or pedal power. Use of ATVs is not permitted in the park.

The only route appropriate for road bikes is the 25-mile round-trip Scenic Drive, described above. However, both the Grand Wash and Capitol Gorge roads ( for descriptions of these roads), plus three much longer dirt roads, are open to mountain bikes as well as four-wheel-drive vehicles. Note that rain can make the roads impassable, so check on current conditions with park rangers before setting out.

The Cathedral Valley Loop is recommended for mountain bikers and four-wheel-drivers. This road covers 60 miles on a variety of surfaces, including dirt, sand, and rock, and requires the fording of the Fremont River, where water is usually 1 to 1 1/2 feet deep. You are rewarded with beautiful, unspoiled scenery, including bizarre sandstone monoliths and majestic cliffs, in one of the park’s most remote areas. A small, primitive campground is located in Cathedral Valley. Access to the loop is from Utah 24, just outside the park, 12 miles east of the visitor center at the river ford; or 19 miles east of the visitor center on the Caineville Wash Road, though it’s best to begin at the river ford to be sure you can make the crossing.

Hondoo Rivers and Trails and Backcountry Outfitters (see above) offer full-day four-wheel-drive tours, including lunch, into the national park and surrounding areas, at rates from $125 to $150 per person. Early-morning starting times are available for photographers who want to catch the light at sunrise, and specialized tours, including trips to rock art sites, are also available. Backcountry Outfitters, whose motto is “Get Out and Stay Out!,” also rents mountain bikes at $32 to $42 for a half-day and $38 to $48 for a full day. Those wanting to go four-wheel-drive touring on their own can rent a 4WD vehicle for $95 to $125 per day, including 150 miles, at Thousand Lakes RV Park & Campground (see “Camping” below).

Hiking

Trails through the national park offer sweeping panoramas of colorful cliffs and soaring spires, eerie journeys through desolate steep-walled canyons, and cool oases along the tree-shaded Fremont River. Watch carefully for petroglyphs and other reminders of this area’s first inhabitants. Little has changed from the way cowboys, bank robbers, settlers, and gold miners found it in the late 1800s. In fact, one of the best things about hiking here is experiencing the unique combination of scenic beauty, American Indian art, and Western history.

Park rangers can help you choose trails best suited to the time of year, weather conditions, and your personal physical condition; those planning serious backpacking treks will want to buy topographic maps, available at the visitor center. The summer sun is wicked, so hats and sunscreen are mandatory, and a gallon of water per person is recommended.

Among the best short hikes at Capitol Reef is the 2.5-mile round-trip Capitol Gorge Trail. It’s easy, mostly level walking along the bottom of a narrow canyon. Starting at the end of the dirt Capitol Gorge Road, the hiking trail leads past the Pioneer Register, where prospectors and other early travelers carved their names. The earliest legible signatures were made in 1871 by J. A. Call and “Wal” Bateman.

An easy hike that’s best at sunset is the aptly named Sunset Point Trail. The hike is less than a half-mile but affords panoramic views of cliffs and domes at their most dramatic, at sunset. The trail head is at Panorama Point turnoff, on Utah 24, 3 miles west of the visitor center, then 1 mile on a gravel access road.

Another short hike, but quite a bit more strenuous, is the 3.5-mile round-trip Cassidy Arch Trail. This route offers spectacular views as it climbs steeply from the floor of Grand Wash to high cliffs overlooking the park. The trail provides several perspectives of Cassidy Arch, a natural stone arch named for outlaw Butch Cassidy, who is believed to have occasionally used the Grand Wash as a hide-out. The trail, which has an elevation change of 1,150 feet, is off the Grand Wash dirt road, which branches off the east side of the highway about halfway down the park’s Scenic Drive.

Capitol Reef offers a variety of backpacking opportunities, including the 15-mile round-trip Upper Muley Twist Canyon route, which follows a canyon through the Waterpocket Fold and offers views of arches and narrows, as well as panoramic vistas from the top of the fold; and the 22-mile round-trip Halls Creek Narrows, which follows Halls Creek through a beautiful slot canyon (where you may have to wade or swim). Free backcountry permits (available at the visitor center) are required for all overnight hikes. Discuss any plans with park rangers first, as these routes are prone to flash floods.

Guided hikes in the park and in other nearby locations are available from Hondoo Rivers and Trails and Backcountry Outfitters (see above). Prices vary, but as an example, half-day guided hiking trips cost about $90 per person, and full-day guided hikes, including lunch, cost about $125.

Horseback Riding

Horses are welcome in some areas of the park but prohibited in others; check at the visitor center for details. Multiday guided trail rides that include the national park or other areas are offered by Hondoo Rivers and Trails (see above), at rates of about $1,500 per person for a 6-day trip, including all food and equipment; Hondoo also leads custom trips. Backcountry Outfitters (see above) also provides multiday trail rides, and, in addition, offers kids’ pony rides (5 and younger) for $20, plus 1-hour horseback rides for $35, 2-hour rides for $60, half-day rides for $120, and full-day rides, with lunch, for $160.

Wildlife-Watching

Although summer temperatures are hot and there’s always the threat of a thunderstorm, this is a good season for wildlife viewing. Many species of lizards reside in the park; you might spy one warming itself on a rock. The western whiptail, eastern fence, and side-blotched lizards are the most common, but the loveliest is the collared lizard, dark in color but with light speckles that allow it to blend easily with lava rocks and become almost invisible to its foes. Watch for deer throughout the park, especially along the path between the visitor center and Fruita Campground. This area is also where you’re likely to see chipmunks and antelope ground squirrels.

If you keep your eyes to the sky, you may spot a golden eagle, Cooper’s hawk, raven, and numerous songbirds that pass through each year. Although they’re somewhat shy and only emerge from their dens at night, the ringtail cat, a member of the raccoon family, also makes the park his home, as do the seldom-seen bobcat, cougar, fox, marmot, and coyote.

Camping

In the Park

The 71-site Fruita Campground ★★ offers a delightful forest camping experience, with large, well-spaced sites and trees and wildlife galore. Open year-round, it offers modern restrooms, drinking water, picnic tables, fire grills, and an RV dump station (in summer only), but no showers or RV hookups. It’s located along the main park road, 1 mile south of the visitor center. Camping costs $10; reservations are not accepted.

The park also has two primitive campgrounds, free and open year-round on a first-come, first-served basis. Both have tables, fire grills, and pit toilets, but no water. Check road conditions before going; unpaved roads may be impassable in wet weather. Cedar Mesa Campground, with five sites, is located in the southern part of the park, about 23 miles down Notom-Bullfrog Road (paved for only the first 10 miles), which heads south off Utah 24 just outside the eastern entrance to the park. Cathedral Valley Campground, with six sites, is located in the northern part of the park. From the visitor center, head east on Utah 24 about 12 miles to the Fremont River ford, cross the river, and turn north on unpaved Hartnet Road for about 25 miles. A high-clearance or four-wheel-drive vehicle is necessary.

Backcountry camping is permitted in much of the park with a free permit, available at the visitor center. Fires are forbidden in the backcountry.

Impressions

The colors are such as no pigments can portray. They are deep, rich, and variegated; and so luminous are they, that light seems to flow or shine out of the rock.

—Geologist C. E. Dutton, 1880

Nearby

Sandcreek RV Park The open, grassy area in this pleasant park affords great views in all directions, and there are numerous trees. Facilities include a large, clean bathhouse; horseshoe pits; a gift shop with handmade stone and antler jewelry; a dump station; and pay laundry. There are 24 sites plus two attractive cabins that share the campground bathhouse ($30 double). There is also horse boarding ($5 per horse per night).

540 Utah 24, 5 miles west of the park entrance (P.O. Box 750276), Torrey, UT 84775. www.sandcreekrv.com. 435/425-3577. 24 sites, 12 tent and 12 RV. $15 tent site; $21–$24 RV site. MC, V. Closed mid-Oct to Mar.

Single Tree Campground ★ Located in a forest of tall pines at an elevation of 8,200 feet, this campground features nicely spaced paved sites. Some sites are situated in the more open center area; others are set among trees along the edge of the campground. There are also sites that can accommodate large RVs. Most popular are those sites offering distant panoramic views of the national park. Facilities include a picnic table, grill, and fire ring at each site; restrooms with flush toilets but no sinks or showers; water hydrants scattered about; an RV dump station; and a horseshoe pit and volleyball court. There are no RV hookups. Note: The campground is part of the Dixie National Forest but is managed by the Fishlake National Forest.

Utah 12, about 16 miles south of Torrey. Fremont Ranger District, Fishlake National Forest, 138 S. Main St. (P.O. Box 129), Loa, UT 84747. www.fs.fed.us/r4. 435/836-2800. Reservations 877/444-6777; www.recreation.gov. 26 sites. $10. No credit cards on-site. Closed Nov to mid-May.

Thousand Lakes RV Park & Campground Good views of surrounding rock formations are one of the perks of staying at this well-maintained campground, which also has some shade trees. RV sites are gravel; tent sites are grass. Facilities include the usual bathhouse, plus a gift-and-convenience store, a coin-op laundry, a dump station, a heated outdoor swimming pool, horseshoes, barbecues, and Wi-Fi. Eight cabins ($35–$95 double) range from basic with a shared bathhouse to complete with shower and toilet, plus several upscale units. One unit sleeps six and has a kitchen and bathroom. In addition, Western dinners are offered Monday through Friday and some Saturdays ($15–$23 adults, $7.95–$9.95 children 12 and younger), and 4×4 rentals are available at $95 to $125 per day.

Utah 24, 6 miles west of Capitol Reef National Park (P.O. Box 750070), Torrey, UT 84775. www.thousandlakesrvpark.com. 800/355-8995 for reservations, or 435/425-3500. Fax 435/425-3510. 67 sites. $18 tent site; $28–$29 RV site. DISC, MC, V. Closed late Oct to late Mar.

Wonderland RV Park ★★ The closest full-service RV park and campground to the national park, Wonderland offers great views, immaculately maintained grounds and bathhouses, plus shade trees, grass, big rig sites, and croquet, horseshoes, volleyball, and basketball. Wi-Fi, cable TV, and use of gas barbecue grills are included in the rates. There are fire pits and a dump station. Also on the grounds and sharing the bathhouse are two basic camping cabins and two “mountain cabins,” with two queen beds, color TVs, microwave, and fridge. There’s also a cute sheep wagon ($48 double).

Junction of Utah 12 and 24 (P.O. Box 67), Torrey, UT 84775. www.capitolreefrvpark.com. 877/854-0184 or 435/425-3665. Fax 435/425-3346. 43 sites, 10 tent and 33 RV. $24 tent site; $28–$31 RV site; $28–$48 cabins. DISC, MC, V. Closed Nov–Mar.

Where to Stay

The park itself has no lodging or dining facilities, but the town of Torrey, just west of the park entrance, can take care of most needs. Room tax adds 10.25% to lodging bills.

In addition to the properties discussed below, Torrey has a Days Inn, 825 E. Utah 24 ( 888/425-3113 or 435/425-3111), with rates of $79 to $94 double and $94 to $129 suite. Also see the information on cabins at Sandcreek RV Park, Thousand Lakes RV Park & Campground, and Wonderland RV Park under “Camping,” above.

For additional information on area lodging, dining, and activities, contact the Wayne County Travel Council, P.O. Box 7, Teasdale, UT 84773 ( 800/858-7951 or 435/425-3365; www.capitolreef.travel), which operates a visitor center at the junction of Utah highways 12 and 24, from April through October, Sunday through Thursday 9am to 5pm and Friday and Saturday 8am to 7pm.

Austin’s Chuck Wagon Motel This attractive family-owned-and-operated motel offers a wide range of options. The well-maintained property includes modern motel rooms, which have Southwestern decor, phones, and two queen-size beds, and a family suite with a large living room, fully equipped kitchen, and three bedrooms that sleep six. The best choice here, however, is one of the plush (but still Western-style) cabins. Measuring 576 square feet, each cabin has two bedrooms (each with a queen-size bed), a living room with a queen-size sofa bed, a complete kitchen, a full bathroom, a covered porch, and a small yard with a barbecue grill and a picnic table. The grounds are attractively landscaped, with a lawn and large trees; also on the property is a grocery store/bakery with a well-stocked deli. All rooms are nonsmoking.

12 W. Main St. (P.O. Box 750180), Torrey, UT 84775. www.austinschuckwagonmotel.com. 800/863-3288 or 435/425-3335. Fax 435/425-3434. 24 units. Motel rooms $75 double; cabins $135 for up to 4; family suite $150 for up to 4. AE, DISC, MC, V. Closed Dec–Feb. Amenities: Deli; Jacuzzi; outdoor heated pool. In room: A/C, TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Best Western Capitol Reef Resort Located a mile west of the national park entrance, this attractive Best Western is one of the closest lodgings to the park. Try to get a room on the back side of the motel, where the windows look out onto fantastic views of the area’s red-rock formations. Standard units have either one king-size or two queen-size beds; minisuites have a king-size bed and a queen-size sofa sleeper, plus a refrigerator, microwave, and wet bar; full suites add a separate sitting room for the sofa sleeper, a second TV and telephone, a jetted tub, and patio. The sun deck and pool are situated out back, away from road noise, with glass wind barriers and spectacular views.

2600 E. Utah 24, Torrey, UT 84775. 888/610-9600 or 435/425-3761. Fax 435/425-3300. 97 units. June–Sept $110–$130 double, $140–$150 minisuite and suite; Oct–May $90–$109 double, $119–$129 minisuite and suite. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted in designated pet rooms. Amenities: Restaurant; Jacuzzi; outdoor heated pool; tennis court. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Boulder View Inn This attractive, well-maintained, modern motel is perfect for those who just want a good night’s sleep without a lot of frills. Guest rooms are large and comfortable, with queen-size or king-size beds, tables with chairs, and a Southwestern motif. Smoking is not permitted.

385 W. Main St. (Utah 24), Torrey, UT 84775. www.boulderviewinn.com. 800/444-3980 or 435/425-3800. 11 units. Apr–Nov $75 double; Nov–Mar $40 double. Rates include continental breakfast. DISC, MC, V. In room: A/C, TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Capitol Reef Inn & Cafe This older, Western-style motel—small, nicely landscaped, and adequately maintained—offers guest rooms that are both homey and comfortable. The furnishings are handmade of solid wood. Facilities include a lovely desert garden and kiva. Adjacent, under the same ownership, is a good restaurant as well as a gift shop that sells American Indian crafts, guidebooks, and maps.

360 W. Main St. (Utah 24), Torrey, UT 84775. www.capitolreefinn.com. 435/425-3271. 10 units. $53 double. Children 2 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DISC, MC, V. Closed late Oct to mid-Mar. Amenities: Restaurant (see review); large Jacuzzi. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.

Sandstone Inn ★★ If you want panoramic views in all directions and an attractive, comfortable room at a very good price, this is the place. Perched high on a hill set back from the highway, the well-maintained property is peaceful and quiet. Standard motel rooms have two queen-size beds or one king, along with typical modern motel decor and some genuine wood touches. Deluxe rooms add refrigerators and microwaves, and suites have king-size beds, large whirlpool tubs, and private balconies.

955 E. Utah 24, at the junction of Utah 24 and 12 (P.O. Box 750208), Torrey, UT 84775. www.sandstonecapitolreef.com. 800/458-0216 or 435/425-3775. Fax 435/425-3212. 50 units. Apr–Oct $78–$98 double, $125 suite; Nov–Mar $58–$78 double, $80 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted, $10 per night nonrefundable fee. Amenities: Restaurant (see review); Jacuzzi; indoor heated pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Torrey Schoolhouse Bed and Breakfast ★★ This excellent inn offers a charming alternative to the standard motel. The imposing three-story red sandstone building served as the community’s school from 1917 until 1954; during its early days, it also hosted plays, boxing matches, and dances. Beautifully restored, it now houses a bed-and-breakfast inn that maintains the schoolhouse theme on the first and second floors, with furnishings such as an antique writing desk and musical instruments, while third-floor rooms have a pioneer theme. Units are spacious, with light-colored walls and high ceilings, which make them feel even bigger. The inn offers a good mix of historical ambience and modern conveniences, including top-of-the-line beds and massage recliners. The organic breakfasts, often from locally grown ingredients, might include a breakfast quiche, Belgian waffles with fruit topping, or a breakfast burrito, along with homemade muffins and breakfast meats. All units are nonsmoking.

150 N. Center St. (P.O. Box 750337), Torrey, UT 84775. www.torreyschoolhouse.com. 435/633-4643. 10 units. Apr–Oct $110–$160 double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Closed Nov–Mar. Children 12 and older welcome. In room: A/C, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat

In addition to the restaurants discussed below, you’ll find a very good deli and bakery at Austin’s Chuck Wagon Motel, 12 W. Main St., Torrey ( 800/863-3288 or 435/425-3335; www.austinschuckwagonmotel.com), open daily with varying hours from mid-March through October (closed the rest of the year). It offers a good choice of hot and cold sandwiches, wraps, and Mexican items such as burritos and enchiladas, at prices from $3 to $7. Although primarily for takeout, the deli does have several small tables. In the same building is a grocery store.

Cafe Diablo ★★★ SOUTHWESTERN Looks are deceiving. What appears to be a simple, Western cafe is in fact a very fine restaurant—among Utah’s best—offering innovative beef, pork, chicken, seafood, and vegetarian selections, many with a Southwestern flair. The rack of glazed pork ribs, slow roasted in chipotle, molasses, and rum glaze, is spectacular. Other noteworthy dishes include pumpkinseed-crusted red trout served with cilantro-lime sauce and wild rice pancakes, and Mayan tamales—eggplant, poblano peppers, roasted tomatoes, masa, and Casera cheese steamed in a banana leaf. The pastries—at least eight different ones are prepared daily—and homemade ice creams are wonderful. In addition to the dining room there is a heated patio. Beer, wine, and cocktails are served.

599 W. Main St., Torrey. 435/425-3070. www.cafediablo.net. Main lunch courses $10–$13, main dinner courses $22–$30. AE, MC, V. Daily 5–10pm. Closed late Oct to early Apr.

Capitol Reef Inn & Cafe AMERICAN This popular restaurant offers a good selection of fresh, healthy foods, although the service can be a bit slow, especially at dinner. Known for its locally raised trout (available at every meal), the cafe is equally famous for its 10-vegetable salad. Vegetables are grown locally, and vegetarian dishes include spaghetti and mushroom lasagna. There are several steaks, including an excellent tenderloin, plus chicken. The atmosphere is casual, with comfortable seating, American Indian crafts, and large windows. The restaurant offers beer and wine.

At the Capitol Reef Inn & Cafe, 360 W. Main St. 435/425-3271. www.capitolreefinn.com. Main courses $6–$11 breakfast and lunch, $10–$20 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7am–9pm. Closed late Oct to mid-Mar.

Rim Rock Restaurant ★★ AMERICAN A local favorite for special occasions, this fine-dining restaurant is an excellent choice for beef—try the grilled tenderloin with cranberry demi-sauce or the blackened top sirloin with caramelized onions and button mushrooms. The smoked pork barbecue ribs are recommended, as is the smoked trout appetizer. The menu also includes a pasta of the day, pan-seared Utah trout, several chicken dishes, a few vegetarian items, and homemade pies. The casual dining room has a Western look, with lots of windows providing stupendous views and a raised outdoor dining area. Full liquor service is available.

2523 E. Utah 24. 435/425-3388. www.therimrock.net. Main courses $15–$30. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5–9:30pm. Closed Nov to late Mar.

Sandstone Restaurant ★ AMERICAN Perched on a hill back from the highway, the Sandstone offers tremendous views of the area’s famed red-rock formations plus good food at reasonable prices. The Sandstone does an especially good job with barbecue—try the tender pork ribs—and beef, including a prime rib special most Fridays and Saturdays. It also has pasta and chicken dinners, a salad bar, and excellent desserts, such as the four-layer chocolate cake and the huge brownie sundae. Breakfasts offer the usual American standards, and lunch may be served in summer (call for hours). Beer and wine are available.

In the Sandstone Inn, 955 E. Utah 24, at the junction of Utah 24 and 12. 435/425-3775. www.sandstonecapitolreef.com. Main dinner courses $12–$23. AE, DISC, MC, V. Apr–Nov daily 7am–noon and 5–9pm. Call for summer lunch hours if available, and all hours Dec–Mar.

Slacker’s Burger Joint BURGERS/SANDWICHES This nonfranchise fast-food restaurant serves good burgers—about a dozen varieties including one topped with pastrami!—plus sandwiches, fries, fish and chips; for those who insist on eating healthy, several salads and a garden burger are offered. A small dining room is decked out in ’50s memorabilia, and a lawn is set with picnic and patio tables. A wide variety of ice-cream cones and thick milkshakes are also available; no alcohol is served.

165 E. Main St., Torrey. 435/425-3710. All items $2–$9. MC, V. May–Aug daily 11am–9pm, closes at 8pm Sept–Oct and mid-Mar to Apr. Closed Nov to mid-Mar.