Chapter 15: The Four Corners Area

The Four Corners area—where the borders of Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, and Utah meet—is a major U.S. archaeological center (see the map of Southeast Utah). A vast complex of ancient villages dominated this region a thousand years ago. Among the red-brown rocks, abandoned canyons, and flat mesas lies another world, once ruled by the Ancestral Puebloans (also known as the Anasazi) and today largely the domain of the Navajo.

Wander among the scenic splendors of Monument Valley, where Navajo people tend sheep and weave rugs, and trace the history of a civilization that vanished more than 7 centuries ago, leaving behind more questions than answers. Those particularly interested in the ancient and modern Native American tribes of the region will want to continue their travels into Arizona, New Mexico, and Colorado. Frommer’s guidebooks to those states can provide additional information.

The southeast corner of Utah is sparsely populated—downright desolate and deserted, some might say—and you’re not going to find your favorite chain motel, fast-food restaurant, or brand of gasoline right around every corner. That’s assuming you can even find a corner. So, many travelers discover a place they like, rent a room or campsite for a few days, and take day trips. This chapter is laid out using the village of Bluff as a base—a series of excursions rings the tiny town. First, head southwest to Monument Valley and then northwest to Natural Bridges National Monument. Then head east, to Hovenweep National Monument and Four Corners Monument. Finally, this chapter takes you into Colorado, to visit Mesa Verde National Park, site of the most impressive cliff dwellings in the United States.

A Base Camp in Bluff

100 miles S of Moab, 338 miles SE of Salt Lake City

The tiny and very friendly village of Bluff sits near the intersection of U.S. 191 and U.S. 163, with roads leading off toward all the attractions of the Four Corners. With a population of about 300, Bluff (elevation 4,320 ft.) is one of those comfortable little places with most basic services, but not a lot more. Founded by Mormon pioneers in 1880, the town had already been the site of both Ancestral Puebloan and Navajo occupations. Local businesses distribute a free walking- and biking-tour guide that shows where ancient rock art and archaeological sites are located, and points out the locations of some of Bluff’s handsome stone homes and other historic sites from the late 19th century.

For more information on Bluff, check out the website of the Business Owners of Bluff (www.bluffutah.org). You can also get information on Bluff and the other southeast Utah communities of Blanding, Monticello, Mexican Hat, and Monument Valley from Utah’s Canyon Country, 117 S. Main St. (P.O. Box 490), Monticello, UT 84535 ( 800/574-4386 or 435/587-3235, ext. 4139; www.utahscanyoncountry.com). There is no visitor center in Bluff.

White-Water Rafting & Other Organized Tours

Situated along the San Juan River, Bluff is a center for river rafting. Wild Rivers Expeditions, 101 S. Main St., Bluff ( 800/422-7654 or 435/672-2244; www.riversandruins.com), offers river trips on the San Juan that are both fun and educational. Led by archaeology and geology professionals, the expeditions take boaters past dozens of Native American sites along the river, such as the spectacular Butler Wash Petroglyph Panel—a 250-yard-long wall of petroglyphs—plus fascinating rock formations. Trips, offered from March through October, range from a full day to more than a week, with rates starting at $165 per adult and $123 per child 12 or younger, including lunch.

Guided tours to scenic areas and archaeological sites such as Cedar Mesa and Comb Ridge are offered by Far Out Expeditions, 7th East Street and Mulberry Avenue, Bluff ( 435/672-2294; www.faroutexpeditions.com). The company also offers custom guided backpacking trips. Day trips run $195 per person for groups of two people; backpacking trips are $225 per person per day for groups of two or three people. Far Out Expeditions also offers lodging.

Note that both of the above companies also collect per-person user fees charged by the Bureau of Land Management.

More to See & Do

In town, check out the remains of Historic Fort Bluff and the Chacoan Ruin sites, both worthy of a quick stop or detour.

About 2 1/4 miles west of town is Sand Island Recreation Site, operated by the BLM. Located along the San Juan River among cottonwoods, Russian olives, and salt cedar, this area offers boating and fishing. Boaters must obtain river permits in advance, and because there are usually more people wanting permits than there are permits available, a lottery is held in January to determine who gets the permits. Fees are charged, based on the time of year, section of river, and number of people in your party. As early as possible, preferably in December for the following summer, contact the Bureau of Land Management, 365 N. Main St., Monticello, UT 84535 ( 435/587-1500, or 435/587-1544 8am–noon Mon–Fri for permits and applications; www.blm.gov/ut). Nestled between the river and a high rock bluff are picnic tables, vault toilets, and graveled campsites; camping is $10 per night and drinking water is available. Head west from the boat launch to see a number of petroglyphs, some of which can be seen easily on foot; others require a boat to see. Unfortunately, you must have your own boat with you, as there are no nearby places to rent boats.

Goosenecks State Park, set on a rim high above the San Juan, offers spectacular views out over the twisting, turning river some 1,000 feet below. It’s named for the sharp turns in the river, which meanders more than 5 miles to progress just 1 linear mile and provides a look straight down through 300 million years of geologic history. (The park also has some Hollywood history: It served as the location for the climactic scene in Thelma & Louise.) A gravelly open area at the end of the paved road has picnic tables, trash cans, vault toilets, and an observation shelter, but no drinking water. The park is open around the clock and admission is free; primitive camping is permitted at no charge. The park is about 24 miles from Bluff, just off the route to Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. Head west on U.S. 163 for about 20 miles, turn north (right) on Utah 261 for about a mile, and then west (left) on Utah 316 for 2 1/2 miles. For information, contact Goosenecks State Park, 660 W. 400 North, Blanding, UT 84511 ( 435/678-2238; www.stateparks.utah.gov).

Another worthwhile area attraction is Valley of the Gods, a 16-mile driving loop south of Bluff proper, featuring a stunning landscape of isolated red mesas on a flat valley floor below sheer cliffs. It is located 8 miles northwest of Mexican Hat off U.S. 163; there are several hiking trails.

Where to Stay

In addition to the choices below, about 25 miles southwest of Bluff near Mexican Hat, the San Juan Inn, U.S. 163 ( 800/447-2022; www.sanjuaninn.net), is a fairly nondescript roadside motel in a location that’s anything but: perched above the San Juan River. Doubles are $88 summer and $68 winter. The complex includes a trading post and restaurant.

Campgrounds include Cadillac Ranch RV Park, 640 E. U.S. 191, Bluff ( 800/538-6195 or 435/672-2262), a down-home sort of place on the east side of town with sites around a small pond. It has 20 RV sites—all large pull-throughs—and 10 tent sites plus free Wi-Fi and restrooms with showers. The campground is open year-round, but water is turned off in winter. The cost per site is $16 for tents and $25 for RVs. Showers are $5.

Lodging tax adds about 10% to room bills in Bluff.

Desert Rose Inn ★★ Built in 1999, this imposing lodge-style building houses 30 attractively decorated motel rooms, all with coffeemakers and queen-size or king-size beds. The attractive suite has a wraparound porch, king-size bed, and separate living room. In addition there are five pleasant cabins, a bit more rustic in appearance, each with a large walk-in shower (no tubs), one king bed and a sofa sleeper, refrigerator and microwave, knotty pine walls and ceilings, porch, and cathedral ceiling with exposed beams. Smoking is not permitted.

701 W. U.S. 191 (P.O. Box 148), Bluff, UT 84512. www.desertroseinn.com. 888/475-7673 or 435/672-2303. Fax 435/672-2217. 35 units. Apr–Oct $100–$125 double, $119–$149 cabin, $169–$189 suite; Nov–Mar $80 double, $105 cabin, $159 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. In room: A/C, TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Far Out Guest House This restored historic home has two bedrooms, decorated in Southwestern style, with artwork and photos depicting scenes of the area. Each room has six bunk beds and a private bathroom. Both share a comfortable living room, screened porch, and fully equipped kitchen. Smoking is not permitted. The house is operated by Far Out Expeditions, which offers guided day tours and backcountry trips.

7th East St. and Mulberry Ave. (P.O. Box 307), Bluff, UT 84512. www.faroutexpeditions.com. 435/672-2294. 2 units. $90 for 1 or 2 people; $100 for 3 or 4 people; $110 for 5 or 6 people; $200 for the entire house. MC, V.

Recapture Lodge ★ This well-kept motel, located on the main street near the center of town, has an attractive Western decor and a nature trail that follows the San Juan River along the back of the property. Quiet, clean, attractive rooms contain evaporative cooling; several budget units, each with one double bed, are also available.

220 E. U.S. 191 (P.O. Box 309), Bluff, UT 84512. www.recapturelodge.com. 435/672-2281. 26 units. $70 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted (no fee). Amenities: Jacuzzi; pool. In room: TV, no phone.

Where to Eat

Cottonwood Steakhouse ★★ This is an Old West–style restaurant—lots of wood and a handsome stone fireplace—that knows what to do with beef and buffalo (not to mention homemade pie). The solid fare includes a lean rib-eye buffalo steak plus T-bone and rib-eye beefsteaks, barbecued chicken or ribs, shrimp, and catfish, accompanied by large salads, Western-grilled potatoes, and beans. In warm weather, diners can sit at picnic tables outside under cottonwood trees. Beer is available.

U.S. 191 on the west side of town (Main and 4th St. E). 435/672-2282. www.cottonwoodsteakhouse.com. Main courses $13–$25. MC, V. Apr–Oct daily 5:30–9:30pm. Closed in winter.

Twin Rocks Cafe In the shadow of the prominent Twin Rocks formation, the cafe has an open, airy dining room with large windows offering views of the surrounding red-rock walls. The American and Southwest selections range from half-pound burgers to barbecue plates to vegetarian specialties. You can also choose from a variety of sandwiches, New York strip steak, and grilled lemon herb chicken. But the most popular items by far are the regional dishes—the sheepherder’s sandwich, Navajo taco, and beef stew with Navajo fry bread, a thick, deep-fried bread. You can also mix your cultures with a Navajo pizza—a variety of toppings served on Navajo fry bread. Breakfast items include the standard pancakes and egg dishes, plus granola and a spicy breakfast burrito. Microbrews and other beers are available with meals. While you’re there, be sure to check out the museum-quality American Indian arts and crafts at Twin Rocks Trading Post, under the same management, next door.

913 E. Navajo Twins Dr. (off U.S. 191, on the east end of town). 435/672-2341. www.twinrockscafe.com. Breakfast entrees $4–$10, lunch and dinner entrees $9–$22. AE, DISC, MC, V. Summer daily 7am–9pm; slightly reduced hours in winter.

Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park ★★

50 miles SW of Bluff; 150 miles S of Moab; 395 miles S of Salt Lake City; 160 miles W of Cortez, Colorado

You’ve seen Monument Valley’s majestic stone towers, delicately carved arches, lonely wind-swept buttes, forbidding cliffs, and mesas covered in sagebrush. Perhaps you didn’t know you were looking at Monument Valley, instead believing it to be Tombstone, Arizona; or Dodge City, Kansas; or New Mexico; or Colorado. And possibly you couldn’t fully appreciate the deep reddish-brown colors of the rocks or the incredible blue of the sky, which lost a bit of their brilliance in black and white.

For most of us, Monument Valley is the Old West. You’ve seen it dozens of times in movie theaters, on television, and in magazine and billboard advertisements. This all started in 1938, when Harry Goulding, who had been operating a trading post for local Navajo for about 15 years, convinced Hollywood director John Ford that Ford’s current project, Stagecoach, should be shot in Monument Valley. Released the following year, Stagecoach not only put Monument Valley on the map, but also launched the career of a little-known actor by the name of John Wayne.

Ford and other Hollywood directors were attracted to Monument Valley by the same elements that draw visitors today. This is the genuine, untamed American West, with a simple, unspoiled beauty of carved stone, blowing sand, and rich colors, all compliments of nature. The same erosive forces of wind and water carved the surrounding scenic wonders of the Grand Canyon, Glen Canyon, and the rest of the spectacular red-rock country of southern Utah and northern Arizona. But here the result is different: Colors seem deeper, natural rock bridges are almost perfect circles, and the vast emptiness of the land around them gives the towering stone monoliths an unequaled sense of drama.

Essentials

Operated as a tribal park by the Navajo Nation (the country’s largest tribe), Monument Valley (elevation 5,200 ft.) straddles the border of southeast Utah and northeast Arizona. U.S. 163 goes through the valley from north to south, and a tribal park access road runs east to west.

Getting There From Moab, Monticello, and most points in eastern Utah, take U.S. 191 south to Bluff, turn west (right), and follow U.S. 163 to Monument Valley. An alternative is to turn off Utah 95 south onto Utah 261 just east of Natural Bridges National Monument, follow Utah 261 to U.S. 163, turn southwest, and follow U.S. 163 to Monument Valley. This latter route is quite scenic, but because of switchbacks and steep grades it is not recommended for motor homes or vehicles with trailers. Those coming from Arizona can take east-west U.S. 160 to U.S. 163, turn north, and follow it into Monument Valley.

Information/Visitor Center Contact Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, P.O. Box 360289, Monument Valley, UT 84536 ( 435/727-5874 or 727-5870), or the Navajo Nation Parks and Recreation Department, P.O. Box 2520, Window Rock, AZ 86515 ( 928/871-6647; www.navajonationparks.org).

The visitor center/museum is located about 4 miles east of U.S. 163 on the Monument Valley access road. It contains a viewing deck, exhibits on the geology and human history of the valley, restrooms, drinking water, a gift shop, and a restaurant that serves Navajo and American dishes for all three meals daily.

Hours, Fees & Regulations The tribal park is open daily, May through September from 6am to 8pm and October through April from 8am to 5pm (closed Christmas and New Year’s Day; half-day on Thanksgiving).

Admission is $5, free for children 9 and under. The park is operated by the Navajo Nation and not the U.S. government, so federal interagency passes are not accepted.

Because the park is part of the Navajo Nation, laws here differ somewhat from those in Utah, in Arizona, or on public lands. All alcoholic beverages are prohibited within the boundaries of the Navajo reservation. Visitors must stay on the self-guided Valley Drive unless accompanied by an approved guide, and rock climbing and cross-country hiking are prohibited. Although photography for personal use is permitted, permission is required to photograph Navajo residents and their property, and you will usually need to pay them.

Both Utah and Arizona are on Mountain Time, and although the state of Arizona does not recognize daylight saving time, the Navajo Nation does.

Exploring Monument Valley by Car

Driving the 17-mile self-guided loop lets you see most of the major scenic attractions of Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park at your own pace, and at the lowest cost. The dirt road is a bit rough—not recommended for low-slung sports cars or vehicles longer than 24 feet, although it is passable for smaller motor homes. The road’s first half-mile is the worst, and you have to drive it both at the beginning and end of the loop. There are no restrooms, drinking water, or other facilities along the route, and motorists should watch for livestock. Allow about 2 hours.

A brochure (free) and a more detailed booklet (fee) provide rough maps and information on 11 numbered sites, such as the Mittens—rock formations that resemble (you guessed it) a pair of mittens—and the aptly named Elephant and Camel buttes, Totem Pole, and the Thumb. You’ll also see Yei Bi Chei, a rock formation that resembles a Navajo holy man, and John Ford Point, one of famed Hollywood director John Ford’s favorite filming locations, where he shot scenes from Stagecoach, The Searchers, and Cheyenne Autumn. It’s still popular with producers—watch for crews working on feature films, TV shows, or commercials.

Guided Tours

Guided tours are the best way to see Monument Valley—without a guide, visitors are restricted to the 17-mile scenic drive, but Navajo guides ★ can take you into lesser-visited areas of the tribal park, give you their personal perspectives, and often arrange weaving demonstrations and other activities. Inquire at the visitor center for the types of tours (including the possibility of a sunset tour) currently available.

Tours are also available from Goulding’s (see below), with rates of $40 for a 2 1/2-hour tour, $50 for a 3 1/2-hour tour, and $90 for a full-day tour that includes lunch. Discounts apply for children 8 and under. These prices include the park admission fee.

You can also see Monument Valley by horseback with Navajo-owned-and-operated Black’s Monument Valley Tours ( 928/309-8834 or 435/739-4205; www.blacksmonumentvalleytours.com). Prices are about $60 per person for a 90-minute trail ride and $160 per person for a 6-hour ride; riders also have to pay the monument entrance fee.

More to See & Do

There is one hike you can take without a guide, the 3.2-mile Wildcat Trail around West Mitten Butte. Bring water and expect the hike to take about 2 hours.

Goulding’s Trading Post Museum, at Goulding’s Lodge (see “Where to Stay & Eat,” below), is the original Monument Valley trading post opened by Harry and Leona (Mike) Goulding in 1924; it served as their home as well as a trading post for many years. Furnished much as it was in the 1920s and 1930s, the museum contains exhibits of Goulding family memorabilia, old photos of the area, Navajo and Ancestral Puebloan artifacts and crafts, and posters and other items from movies that were filmed at the trading post and in Monument Valley. It’s open year-round (call the lodge for hours); a $2 donation is requested, which goes toward scholarships for local children. Allow a half-hour. Nearby, a more modern trading post sells souvenirs, books, videos, and top-quality American Indian arts and crafts.

The Earth Spirit Multimedia Show, in Harry and Mike’s Theater, next to Goulding’s Lodge, is a 20-minute show on the valley’s history and geology, utilizing magnificent photos of the area. It’s shown several times nightly year-round and costs $2 (free for those who also take a Monument Valley tour with Goulding’s).

Camping

Primitive camping in the park (meaning no running water, only portable restrooms), operated by the tribal park administration, is available for $5 per person per night.

Goulding’s Monument Valley Campground, on the Monument Valley access road about 3 miles west of its intersection with U.S. 163 ( 435/727-3231; www.gouldings.com), offers splendid views, plus full RV hookups including cable TV, an indoor heated swimming pool, modern restrooms with showers, a playground, a self-serve laundry, and a large convenience store. The campground is open year-round, but with limited services from November to mid-March. Tent sites cost $25, RV sites are $44, and cabins are $75, with discounts in winter.

Where to Stay & Eat

New in 2008, the attractive, contemporary View Hotel ( 435/727-5555; www.monumentvalleyview.com), is perched on the bluff next to the park’s visitor center and nicely blends into the red-rock country. Every room has a private balcony with a drop-dead view of the Mittens and other valley landmarks. Rooms are modern, with flatscreen TVs, fridges, and other amenities. The property features an upscale restaurant that serves three meals a day, in-house guide service, and a trading post stocked with Navajo blankets and jewelry. Double rooms are $199 to $319 in summer, $149 to $199 in fall and spring, and $99 in winter.

Goulding’s Lodge ( 800/874-0902 or 435/727-3231; www.gouldings.com), on the Monument Valley access road about 2 miles west of its intersection with U.S. 163, has 62 modern motel rooms, each with Southwestern decor, cable TV and VCR (John Wayne and other Western movies are available for rent), air-conditioning, hair dryer, iron and board, coffeemaker, and private patio or balcony. It has a small indoor heated pool and a restaurant serving three meals daily—American cuisine plus traditional Navajo dishes, with dinner prices in the $10-to-$30 range. Room rates for two are $190 to $230 from April to mid-October, and $80 to $100 the rest of the year. Taxes of about 12% are added to your bill.

Natural Bridges National Monument

60 miles NW of Bluff, 360 miles S of Salt Lake City

Utah’s first National Park Service area, Natural Bridges was designated primarily to show off and protect its three outstanding natural rock bridges, carved by streams and other forms of erosion beginning some 10,000 to 15,000 years ago. You can see the bridges from roadside viewpoints, take individual hikes to each one, or hike a loop trail that connects all three.

Giant Sipapu Bridge is considered a “mature” bridge. It’s 220 feet high, with a span of 268 feet, and is believed to be the second-largest natural bridge in the world, after Rainbow Bridge in nearby Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. Owachomo Bridge, which appears to be on the brink of collapse (then again, it could stand for centuries more), is the smallest of the three at 106 feet high, with a span of 180 feet. Kachina Bridge, 210 feet high with a span of 204 feet, is the thickest of the monument’s bridges at 93 feet. All three bridges were given Hopi names: Sipapu means the “gateway to the spirit world” in Hopi legend; Owachomo is Hopi for “rock mound,” so called for a rounded sandstone formation atop one side of the bridge; and Kachina was named as such because rock art on the bridge resembles decorations found on traditional Hopi kachina dolls.

Essentials

Natural Bridges National Monument is about 40 miles west of Blanding, 60 miles northwest of Bluff, 43 miles north of Mexican Hat, and about 50 miles east of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area’s Hite or Halls Crossing marinas.

Getting There The national monument is located in southeast Utah, off scenic Utah 95 via Utah 275. From Monument Valley, follow U.S. 163 north to Utah 261 (just past Mexican Hat); at Utah 95, go west to Utah 275 and the Monument. Beware, though: Utah 261, although a very pretty drive, has 10% grades and numerous steep switchbacks. It’s not recommended for motor homes, those towing trailers, or anyone who’s afraid of heights. The less adventurous and RV-bound should stick to approaching from the east, via Utah 95.

Make sure you have enough fuel for the trip to Natural Bridges; the closest gas stations are at least 40 miles away in Mexican Hat or Blanding. In fact, no services of any kind can be found within 40 miles of the monument.

Information/Visitor Center For a park brochure and other information, contact Natural Bridges National Monument, HC 60 Box 1, Lake Powell, UT 84533-0101 ( 435/692-1234, ext. 16; www.nps.gov/nabr).

A visitor center at the park entrance, open daily from 8am to 6pm May to October and 8am to 5pm the rest of the year, has exhibits and a video program on bridge formation, the human history of the area, and the monument’s plants and wildlife. Rangers are available to advise you about hiking trails and scheduled activities. The visitor center is the only place in the monument where you can get drinking water.

Fees & Regulations Entry to the monument is $6 per vehicle or $3 per person on foot, bicycle, or motorcycle. Regulations are similar to those in most areas administered by the National Park Service, with an emphasis on protecting the natural resources. Be especially careful not to damage any of the fragile archaeological sites in the monument; climbing on the natural bridges is prohibited. Overnight backpacking is not permitted within the monument, and vehicles may not be left unattended overnight. Because parking at the overlooks and trail heads is limited, anyone towing trailers or extra vehicles is asked to leave them at the visitor center parking lot. Pets must be leashed and are not allowed on trails or in buildings.

Seasons/Avoiding the Crowds Although the monument is open year-round, winters can be a bit harsh at this 6,500-foot elevation; the weather is best between late April and October. Because trail-head parking is limited and most people visit in June, July, and August, the best months to see the park, if your schedule permits, are May, September, and October.

Ranger Programs Guided hikes and walks, evening campground programs, and talks at the visitor center patio are presented from spring through fall. Schedules are posted at the visitor center.

Seeing the Highlights

Natural Bridges National Monument probably won’t be your major vacation destination, but you can easily spend a half- or full day, or even 2 days, here. For those who want to take a quick look, stop at the visitor center for a brief introduction, and then take the 9-mile loop drive to the various natural bridge overlooks. Those with the time and the inclination might also take an easy hike down to Owachomo Bridge; it’s just a half-hour walk.

Outdoor Pursuits

Hiking is the number-one activity here. From the trail heads, you can hike separately to each of the bridges, or start at one and do a loop hike to all three. Be prepared for summer afternoon thunderstorms that can cause flash flooding. Although the possibility of encountering a rattlesnake is very small, you should still watch carefully. During the hot summers, all hikers should wear hats and other protective clothing, use sunscreen, and carry a gallon of water per person for all but the shortest walks.

The easiest hike—more of a walk—leads to Owachomo Bridge (.5 mile round-trip), with an elevation gain of 180 feet. Look toward the eastern horizon to see the twin buttes named Bear’s Ears. Allow a half-hour.

The Sipapu and Kachina Bridge trails are both considered moderately strenuous—allocate about 1 hour for each. The trek to Sipapu Bridge has a 500-foot elevation change, climbing two flights of stairs with three ladders and handrails on a 1.2-mile round-trip trail. This is the steepest trail in the park, and it ends with a splendid view of the bridge about halfway down. The hike takes about 1 hour.

The 1.5-mile round-trip hike to massive Kachina Bridge has a 400-foot elevation change, descending steep slickrock with handrails. Under the bridge is a pile of rocks that fell in June 1992, slightly enlarging the bridge opening. Allow about 1 hour.

Those planning to hike the loop to all three bridges can start at any of the trail heads, although rangers recommend starting at Owachomo. The round-trip, including your walk back across the mesa, is about 9 miles. Although the trails from the rim to the canyon bottom can be steep, the walk along the bottom is easy.

Camping

A primitive 13-site campground has pit toilets, tables, tent pads, and fire grates, but no drinking water, showers, or other facilities. It’s limited to vehicles no more than 26 feet long, and only one vehicle is allowed per site. Cost is $10; sites are allotted on a first-come, first-served basis.

Hovenweep National Monument

35 miles NE of Bluff; 122 miles S of Moab; 366 miles SE of Salt Lake City; 42 miles W of Cortez, Colorado

Located along the Colorado-Utah border, Hovenweep contains six separate sites with some of the most striking (and most isolated) archaeological sites ★★ in the Four Corners area. These include castlelike towers, cliff dwellings, a kiva (a circular underground ceremonial chamber), stone rooms, walls, and petroglyphs. Hovenweep is the Ute/Paiute word for “deserted valley,” appropriate because its inhabitants apparently left around 1300.

Essentials

No lodging, food, gasoline, supplies, or even public phones are available in the national monument; there are bathrooms with running water. The closest motels and restaurants are in Bluff and Blanding, Utah, or Cortez, Colorado.

Getting There/Access Points You can get to Hovenweep’s Square Tower Site, where the visitor center is located, via paved roads from either Colorado or Utah. From Utah, follow U.S. 191, southeastern Utah’s major north-south route, to Utah 262, between the towns of Blanding and Bluff. Head east on Utah 262 to Hatch Trading Post; then, watching for signs, follow paved roads to the monument. One option is to take Utah 163 east from Bluff toward the village of Aneth, turn north (left) onto an unnamed paved road, and follow signs to the monument.

From Cortez, Colorado, follow U.S. 491 (formerly U.S. 666) north to the community of Pleasant View and turn west (left) onto newly paved road, following signs to the monument.

Visitor Information For advance information or questions about current road conditions, contact Hovenweep National Monument, McElmo Route, Cortez, CO 81321 ( 970/562-4282; www.nps.gov/hove).

Fees, Hours, Regulations & Safety Entry to the national monument is $6 per vehicle or $3 per person. The monument is open 24 hours a day, but trails are open from sunrise to sunset only. The visitor center, with exhibits, restrooms, and drinking water, is open daily from 8am to 6pm in spring and summer and 8am to 5pm fall and winter.

Regulations are much the same here as at most National Park Service properties, with an emphasis on taking care not to damage archaeological sites. Summer temperatures can reach 100°F (38°C) and water supplies are limited; bring your own and carry a canteen, even on short walks. In late spring, gnats can be a real nuisance, so take insect repellent. Leashed dogs are permitted on trails.

Exploring the Monument

Hovenweep is noted for its mysterious and impressive 20-foot-tall sandstone towers, some of them square, others oval, circular, or D-shaped. Built by the Ancestral Puebloans (also known as Anasazi), the solid towers have small windows up and down the masonry sides. Archaeologists have suggested myriad possible uses for these structures—their guesses range from guard towers to celestial observatories, ceremonial structures to water towers or granaries. In addition to the towers, the monument contains the remains of cliff dwellings and a kiva, petroglyphs, stone rooms, walls, and a reconstructed dam.

Your walk among the 700-year-old buildings will take you through yucca, cactus, saltbush, juniper, and even some cottonwood trees. Watch for lizards, snakes, rabbits, hawks, ravens, and an occasional deer or fox.

The Square Tower Site, where the visitor center is located, should be your first stop. The other five sites are difficult to find, and you’ll need to get detailed driving directions and check on current road conditions before setting out. (Ask about the Cajon site, a great place to snap sunset photos.)

At the Square Tower Site, the 2-mile Square Tower self-guided trail is a loop, the first part of which is paved and suitable for wheelchairs with assistance. The trail winds past the remains of ancient Puebloan buildings, including the impressive Hovenweep Castle, probably built around a.d. 1200. Once home to several families, this site contains two D-shaped towers plus additional rooms. A trail guide, based at the visitor center, discusses the ruins and identifies desert plants used for food, clothing, and medicine. Allow about 2 hours.

Camping

The 30-site Hovenweep Campground, at the Square Tower Site, is open year-round. It has restrooms, drinking water, picnic tables, and fire grills, but no showers or RV hookups. Most sites will accommodate short trailers and motor homes under 36 feet in length. Cost is $10 per night; reservations are not accepted, but the campground rarely fills, even during the peak summer season.

Four Corners Monument

Operated as a Navajo Tribal Park (with the Colorado section owned by the Ute Mountain Tribe), a flat monument marks the spot where Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona meet—or were thought to have met, until a 2009 survey found the marker to be up to 2 1/2 miles away from the true intersection of the four states—on which visitors can pose for photos. Official seals of the four states are displayed, along with the motto four states here meet in freedom under god. Surrounding the monument are the flags of the four states, the Navajo Nation and Ute tribes, and the United States. Despite its inaccurate location, which it owes to an 1868 survey, it’s still legally recognized as the intersection of the four states (so says the Supreme Court), and makes for a good photo opportunity.

There are often crafts demonstrations here, and jewelry, pottery, sand paintings, and other crafts are for sale, along with T-shirts and other souvenirs. In addition, traditional Navajo food, such as fry bread, is available, and a small visitor center offers information on visiting the Navajo Nation.

A half-mile northwest of U.S. 160, the monument is open daily from 7am to 8pm from May through September and 8am to 5pm the rest of the year. It’s closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. Entry costs $3 per person. For information, contact the Navajo Nation Parks and Recreation Department, P.O. Box 2520, Window Rock, AZ 86515 ( 928/871-6647; www.navajonationparks.org). Allow a half-hour.

East to Colorado & an Additional Archaeological Site

The Four Corners region was once a bustling metropolis, the home of the Ancestral Puebloan people (also called Anasazi). The single best place to explore this ancient culture is Mesa Verde National Park.

Mesa Verde National Park

Mesa Verde ★★★ is the largest archaeological preserve in the United States, with more than 5,000 known sites dating from a.d. 600 to 1300, including the most impressive cliff dwellings in the Southwest.

The earliest-known inhabitants of Mesa Verde (Spanish for “green table”) built subterranean pit houses on the mesa tops. During the 13th century, they moved into shallow alcoves and constructed complex cliff dwellings. These homes were obviously a massive construction project, yet the residents occupied them for only about a century, leaving in about 1300 for reasons as yet undetermined.

The area was little known until ranchers Charlie Mason and Richard Wetherill chanced upon it in 1888. Looting of artifacts followed their discovery until a Denver newspaper reporter’s stories aroused national interest in protecting the site. The 52,000-acre site was declared a national park in 1906—it’s the only U.S. national park devoted entirely to the works of humans.

A series of lightning-sparked fires has blackened over 50% of the park since 2000, closing it for several weeks one summer. Officials said that although the park’s piñon-juniper forests were severely burned, none of the major archaeological sites were damaged. In fact, the fires uncovered some sites that officials were not aware existed.

Essentials

The entrance to Mesa Verde National Park is about 10 miles east of Cortez, Colorado; 56 miles east of Hovenweep National Monument; 125 miles east of Bluff; and 390 miles southeast of Salt Lake City. Admission to the park for up to 1 week for private vehicles costs $15 from Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day weekend and $10 the rest of the year; rates for motorcyclists, bicyclists, and individuals on foot are $8 and $5, respectively.

For information, contact Mesa Verde National Park, P.O. Box 8, Mesa Verde, CO 81330-0008 ( 970/529-4465; www.nps.gov/meve).

The Far View Visitor Center, site of the lodge (described below), restaurant, gift shop, and other facilities, is 15 miles off U.S. 160; it’s open from early April to mid-October only, from 8am to 7pm daily at the height of summer and closing at 5pm at the beginning and end of the season. Chapin Mesa, site of the park headquarters, a museum, and a post office, is 21 miles south of the park entrance on U.S. 160. The Chapin Mesa Museum, open daily year-round (8am–6:30pm from early Apr to mid-Oct, until 5pm the rest of the year), houses artifacts and specimens related to the history of the area, including objects from other nearby sites.

The cliff dwellings can be viewed daily, and, in summer, rangers give evening programs at Morefield Campground and Far View Lodge. In winter, the Mesa Top Loop Road, Spruce Tree House, and museum remain open, but many other facilities are closed. Food, gas, and lodging are generally available in the park from mid-April to mid-October only; full interpretive services are available from Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day weekend.

Seeing the Highlights

Balcony House, Cliff Palace, and Long House can be seen up close only on ranger-led tours, which are offered only during the warmer months; tickets ($3) are available at the park visitor center and the Colorado Welcome Center at Cortez (see below). The Cliff Palace, the park’s largest and best-known site, is a four-story apartment complex with stepped-back roofs forming porches for the dwellings above. Its towers, walls, and kivas are all set back beneath the rim of a cliff. Climbing a 32-foot ladder permits exploration of Balcony House, while Long House, on Wetherill Mesa, is the second-largest cliff dwelling at Mesa Verde.

From late spring through early fall, rangers lead bus tours that include a few short hikes to archeological sites along Mesa Top Loop Road and a hiking tour of Cliff Palace. The 4-hour 700 Years Tour is a morning trip that costs $45 for adults and $34 for children under 12. The Classic Pueblo Tour is a 3t-hour afternoon tour that costs $35 for adults and $18 for children under 12. Tour tickets are available at Far View Lodge, Far View Terrace, Morefield Campground Store, and online at www.visitmesaverde.com.

Rangers lead free tours to Spruce Tree House, another of the major cliff-dwelling complexes, only in winter, when other park facilities are closed. Visitors can also explore Spruce Tree House on their own at any time.

Although the draw here is ancient cliff dwellings rather than outdoor recreation, you will have to hike and climb to reach the sites. None of the trails are strenuous, but the 7,000-foot elevation can make the treks tiring for visitors who aren’t accustomed to the altitude. For those who want to avoid hiking and climbing, the 12-mile Mesa Top Loop Road makes a number of pit houses and cliff-side overlooks easily accessible by car. If you’d really like to stretch your legs and get away from the crowds, however, take one of the longer hikes into scenic Spruce Canyon; you must register at the ranger’s office before setting out.

Where to Stay & Eat

Only one lodging facility is actually in the park, Far View Lodge (see below), which has two restaurants and a bar. The company that runs the lodge also operates two other restaurants in the park—one near the campground and another near Chapin Mesa Museum. Numerous lodging and dining possibilities are in nearby Cortez. Stop at the Colorado Welcome Center at Cortez, Cortez City Park, 928 E. Main St. ( 970/565-3414), open daily from 8am to 6pm in summer, with shorter hours the rest of the year and closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year’s Day, and Easter. You can also contact the Mesa Verde Country Visitor Information Bureau, P.O. Box HH, Cortez, CO 81321 ( 800/253-1616 or 970/565-8227; www.mesaverdecountry.com), or the Cortez Area Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 968, Cortez, CO 81321 ( 970/565-3414; www.cortezchamber.org). See Frommer’s Colorado (Wiley Publishing, Inc.) for lodging and dining choices in the Cortez area.

Far View Lodge Right in the heart of Mesa Verde National Park, Far View Lodge offers not only the most convenient location for visiting the park, but also the best views of any accommodations in the area. The facility lodges guests in 17 separate buildings spread across a hilltop. Rooms aren’t fancy, and some are a bit on the small side, but all are well maintained and more than adequate, with Southwestern decor. The upscale Kiva rooms boast handcrafted furniture, one king-size or two double beds, CD players, and other amenities. Most standard rooms have one queen-size bed or two doubles, although a variety of bed combinations are available. Couples and singles may prefer the rooms with one bed—they seem less cramped than rooms with two beds. There are no TVs, but each unit has a private balcony and the views are magnificent in all directions. All rooms are nonsmoking.

The lodge restaurants serve three meals daily; from mid-May through late September, guided tours of the park are scheduled ($25 adults, $13 children under 12).

Mesa Verde National Park (P.O. Box 277), Mancos, CO 81328. www.visitmesaverde.com. 800/449-2288. Fax 970/564-4311. 150 units. $120–$152 double. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Closed late Oct to mid-Apr. Pets accepted only in standard rooms with two double beds with $50 deposit and $10 nonrefundable fee per pet per night. Amenities: 2 restaurants; Wi-Fi (in lobby only). In room: A/C (Kiva rooms only), CD player (Kiva rooms only), fridge, hair dryer.

Camping

Morefield Village, is site of Mesa Verde’s campground, Morefield Campground ( 800/449-2288; www.visitmesaverde.com) has 365 sites, including 15 with full RV hookups. It’s about 4 miles south of the park entrance station on the main park road (Colo. 10) and is open from mid-May to mid-October. The campground is set in rolling hills in a grassy area with scrub oak and brush. The attractive sites are fairly well spaced and mostly separated by trees and other foliage. Facilities include picnic tables and grills, modern restrooms, coin-operated showers and laundry (not within easy walking distance of most campsites), a convenience store, and an RV dump station. Basic sites (no hookups) cost $23 per night, and full hookup sites cost $33 per night. Reservations are accepted.