Chapter 3: Suggested Switzerland Itineraries
If you have unlimited time, one of Europe’s greatest pleasures is getting lost in the Swiss Alps, wandering about at random, making new discoveries off the beaten path, and finding untrampled villages deep in the mountains.
But few of us have such a generous amount of time in the speeded-up 21st century. Vacations are getting shorter, and a “lean-and-mean” schedule is called for if you want to experience the best of any country in a short amount of time.
If you’re pressed for time, the first two itineraries in this chapter (“Switzerland in 1 Week” and “Switzerland in 2 Weeks”) may be most helpful for skimming the highlights. If you’ve been to Switzerland before—exploring such well-trodden tourist meccas as Zurich, Bern, Geneva, and Lucerne—you may want to discover a different area of the country this time. Consider our itinerary for “The Grisons, the Engadine & Ticino.” We also suggest an itinerary for families.
If you stick to the main highways, Switzerland offers some of the best-maintained roads in Europe. But when you wander off the main roads—in particular, heading up to the mountains—you’ll find your driving skills tested. And though Switzerland is one alpine-high country, it also has miles upon miles of rolling meadowland, often filled with grazing cows.
Switzerland is blessed with one of the world’s most efficient rail systems. Zurich and Geneva are the main hubs, and you can get to nearly anywhere from either one. The itineraries here take you to major attractions such as Bern and Lausanne, but also direct you to more secluded beauty spots and lesser known resorts such as Silvaplana and Morcote.
The pace may be a bit breathless for some visitors, so skip a town or sight occasionally to have some chill-out time—after all, you’re on a holiday.
The Regions in Brief
The Swiss landscape was shaped by glaciers, which hollowed out the valleys and led to the creation of a multitude of magnificent lakes, a large part of Switzerland’s beautiful scenery.
The Swiss plateau, set between the Jura and Alps mountain chains and extending from Lake Geneva in the southwest to Lake Constance in the northeast, represents about 30% of the country’s surface area. The main cities and industries are concentrated on this plateau, making Switzerland one of the world’s most densely populated countries. Most of the Swiss live in this zone, with half the population based in the urban areas of Geneva, Lausanne, Basel, Bern, Olten, Aarau, Zurich, and Baden. The plateau is also the country’s center of agricultural production.
Within its borders Switzerland has nearly every variety of landscape, vegetation, and climatic condition known in Europe. Only a few dozen miles, as the crow flies, separate the lowest point in Switzerland, the shores of Lake Maggiore (where palm trees thrive in a Mediterranean climate), from the highest, the Dufourspitze (where the climate is one of eternal snow and ice).
Of course, the Alps are the main tourist attraction of Switzerland, with about 100 peaks above 3,600m (12,000 ft.). Some 1,800 glaciers offer the sight of an awesome and sometimes-savage nature. The view south from the Jungfraujoch, the highest rail station in Europe, is one of wind-swept rock and ice, majestic and dramatic.
The Swiss Alps form the centerpiece of Europe’s alpine range. They’re broken by the great valleys of the Rhône in the canton of the Valais and the Rhine in the canton of the Graubünden, as well as by many lateral valleys. (A canton is a division similar to a U.S. state.) To the north, the chain ends in the Bernese Alps (Finsteraarhorn); to the south in the Valais Alps (the Monte Rosa range); and to the east, the Alps end at Piz Bernina. In the canton of Ticino, which on the map looks like a triangular section of northern Italy, Switzerland possesses part of the southern face of the Alps.
Switzerland & Liechtenstein
Zurich Close to the northern border of Switzerland, Zurich is not only the country’s largest city, but also one of the most scenic capitals of the world, famous for its lakeside promenades set against a backdrop of towering mountains. The lakeside quays lead to the Alstadt, or Old Town, presided over by the city’s two most historic churches, Fraumünster and Grossmünster. For a view of the Alps, visitors head for Uetliberg. Two of Europe’s greatest museums call Zurich home: the Rietberg with its magnificent non-European art collection, and the Bührle with its array of modern art.
The Bernese Oberland Switzerland’s best-known alpine region is named after its largest city, Bern, the Swiss capital. Known for the beauty of its mountains, it includes many famous resorts, the largest of which is Interlaken, popular mainly in the summer. At its higher altitudes, where the snowfall is more consistent, are such chic ski resorts as Gstaad, Grindelwald, Kandersteg, Mürren, and Wengen.
Northeastern Switzerland Relatively neglected by tourists, this region is separated from southern Germany and Austria by the waters of the Rhine and Lake Constance. Its highlights include St. Gallen, a lace-making center and the economic center of the region, certain sections of the Rhine valley, and the Rhine Falls, near Neuhausen.
Basel & the Jura In northwestern Switzerland, Basel, the capital of the region, is an ancient university town and trading center on the Rhine, set midway between French Alsace and the Jura canton in Switzerland. The Jura is a range of “folded” limestone ridges between two great rivers, the Rhône and the Rhine.
The Valais This rugged valley of the upper Rhône offers such geographic attractions as the Matterhorn and the Great St. Bernard Pass. Equally divided between French- and German-speaking residents, it’s rich in alpine folklore. Its most frequented ski resort is Zermatt.
Lausanne & the Shores of Lake Geneva Called Lac Léman by the Swiss, Lake Geneva is the largest freshwater body in central Europe, covering some 583 sq. km (225 sq. miles). It’s partially fed by the alpine waters of the Rhône and is emptied by a continuation of the same river, which eventually pours into the Mediterranean. Lausanne, the cultural center of the area, is the second-largest city on Lake Geneva and the fifth largest in Switzerland.
Geneva Geneva, Switzerland’s second-largest city, is distinctly different from the rest of Switzerland and culturally more attuned to France. It’s built on the Rhône, at the lower end of Lake Geneva, and is bordered on three sides by French territory. This center of world banking and commerce—and the site of many world organizations, such as the Red Cross—is celebrated for its prosperity, elegance, and sophistication.
Lucerne & Central Switzerland The heartland of Switzerland, this region takes in four different cantons: Lucerne, Uri, Unterwalden, and Schwyz, from which the country’s name is derived. The region’s only major city is Lucerne, a medieval town made famous as a resort in the 19th century. It sits at the northern edge of the lake that bears its name. Despite Switzerland’s wealth of attractions, Lucerne is the Swiss city that most North Americans prefer to visit.
The Grisons & the Engadine This area is the largest and most easterly of the cantons of Switzerland. It’s also one of the least populated, taking in about 363 sq. km (140 sq. miles) of glaciers and legions of jagged, wind-swept mountain peaks. Its capital is Chur, the oldest town in Switzerland, but most visitors bypass it en route to the ski resorts of Arosa, Klosters, and Davos. The Engadine stretches for 97km (60 miles), from the Maloja Plateau to Finstermünz. The region’s chief attraction is the glamorous winter resort of St. Moritz.
The Ticino The Italian-speaking part of Switzerland, the Ticino is the most southerly—and warmest—region of the country. Not surprisingly, it’s the retirement dream for many residents in the northern cantons. The region includes the major cities of Lugano and Locarno, which share, respectively, the lakes of Lugano and Maggiore with Italy. The Italian influence is most strongly felt in the region’s relaxed tempo.
Switzerland in 1 Week
The very title of this tour is a misnomer. No one can see all of Switzerland in 1 week—it’s time enough merely for a few of its highlights. But you can have a memorable vacation in Switzerland in 1 week if you budget your time carefully. Because of its great highways and rail connections, you can virtually cross the country from one end to another in 1 day. Of course, that wouldn’t leave much time for sightseeing.
One week, however, provides just enough time, although barely, to introduce yourself to the most visited cities in the country, which include Zurich, Lucerne (our favorite), Bern (next on our list), Lausanne, and Geneva. If you’re on an even more rushed schedule, and you have to choose between Geneva and Zurich, make it Geneva, which is far more scenic and grand.
Switzerland in 1 Week
Days 1 & 2: Zurich: Gateway to Switzerland ★★★
Because of its superior transportation connections, chances are you’ll arrive in Zurich, especially if you’re winding your way across the Alps. If you can, hit the town as early in the morning as possible to get in a full round of the city’s attractions. After checking into a hotel, take our walking tour of Bahnhofstrasse, which is lined with some of the world’s most elegant shops. Even if you can’t afford to purchase anything, it’s fun to just look at the luxury merchandise, especially the Swiss watches and jewelry. Follow this with a boat trip along Lake Zurich, departing from the lake end of Bahnhofstrasse. Depending on your time, tours last from 1 1/2 to 4 hours. In the afternoon, take the city’s best walk by promenading along the quays of Zurich, such as the finest and most famous, Limmatquai. As the afternoon fades, check out the stained-glass windows at the church, Fraumünster. That night, dine at Zurich’s most famous beer hall, Bierhalle Kropf, or at the Zeughauskeller, a formal arsenal dating from 1487.
Begin Day 2 with a walking tour of Zurich’s Altstadt (Old Town; ). Check out the Romanesque and Gothic cathedral of Grossmünster as you continue the walk. Before lunch, head for Landesmuseum (Swiss National Museum; ), which is a virtual case history of the culture of the Swiss people. After lunch, head in the afternoon to the Kunsthaus Zürich (fine art museum; ), with one of the greatest art collections in Europe. With time remaining in the afternoon, take another tour, this one by boat and aerial cableway to Felsenegg at 795m (2,608 ft.; ). You can view one of the greatest panoramas in this part of Switzerland here: a fit ending for your last day of Zurich sightseeing.
Days 3 & 4: Lucerne: Mountain Magic ★★★
Either by rented car or train, head 50km (31 miles) south of Zurich to the city most favored by American visitors, lying on the western edge of Lake Lucerne. Check in to a hotel for 2 nights. In the late morning, take our walking tour of Lucerne, which will not only be a beautiful experience, but will also give you an orientation of the area. After lunch, visit the Verkehrshaus der Schweiz (Swiss Transport Museum; ), one of the finest museums of its kind in the world. With time remaining, you can take in one or two of the minor sites that interest you, such as the Picasso Museum, the Gletschergarten (Glacier Garden; ), or the Neues Kunstmuseum (Modern Art Museum; ). For atmosphere and good food, dine that night at the Old Swiss House.
While based in Lucerne, Day 4 can be devoted to two mountain excursions, each among the most important attractions in all of Switzerland. First, head to Mount Pilatus, 15km (9 miles) south of Lucerne. The best way to go is to take a steamer from Lucerne to Alpnachstad, where you transfer to a cog railway. With careful planning, you can also visit Rigi, 24km (15 miles) east of Lucerne. Rigi (1,680m/5,510 ft.) is the most famous mountain view in Switzerland. Even Mark Twain climbed it. Return to Lucerne for a final night.
Day 5: Bern: The Great Medieval Capital ★★★
On Day 5, leave Lucerne early and travel by train or car 111km (69 miles) west to Bern, the capital of Switzerland. Trains leave every 30 minutes during the day, and the trip takes 1 1/2 hours. Check in to a hotel for the night and set out to discover a city declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983 because of its medieval architecture. To see the highlights, take our 2-hour walking tour of the historic Altstadt (Old Town; ), finishing at the Swiss Parliament (Bundeshaus). Sample a typical lunch like bratwurst and rösti ( for dining options), then head for Mount Gurten at 844m (2,768 ft.), for the grandest panoramic vista in the area. In the afternoon, visit the Kunstmuseum (Fine Arts Museum; ) to see the capital’s largest collection of paintings by European masters. No visit to Bern is complete without a stop at the famous Bärengraben (Bear Pits; ). Spend the better part of the evening enjoying the regional food and plenty of wine at Klötzlikeller, the oldest wine tavern in Bern.
Day 6: Lausanne: Gateway to Lake Geneva ★★★
From Bern, travel 101km (63 miles) southwest to the lakeside city of Lausanne, where you can enjoy boat trips and also wander the medieval labyrinth of its Vieille Ville (Old Town). Enjoying a great heyday under the Romans, the town has long been a favorite of expats and a choice watering hole for literati—everybody from Dickens to Thackeray; T. S. Eliot even wrote The Wasteland here. After checking in to a hotel in the morning, wander for 2 hours or so around Haute Ville, the Upper Town, visiting the Cathedral of Lausanne and other sights before lunch. Spend the afternoon exploring Ouchy, the port and resort area of Lausanne, opening onto Lake Geneva. You can enjoy 2 or 3 leisurely hours exploring the quay-side flower gardens, which stretch for half a mile. The lakeside promenades of quai de Belgique and quai d’Ouchy are of particular interest. You can also rent pédolas (pedal boats) for fun in the lake itself.
Day 7: Geneva: A Summer Garden ★★★
Just 60km (37 miles) away, reachable by car or train in as little as 50 minutes, Geneva is very different from Lausanne. Straddling the Rhône River as it opens onto Lac Léman (Lake Geneva), the city itself will easily fill up one very busy day of sightseeing, so arrive as early in the day as you can. Spend the morning exploring Vieille Ville (Old Town); the highlight is the Cathédrale de St. Pierre. For a fast preview, take our 2-hour walking tour of Geneva’s quays and Old Town, viewing the famous fountain, Jet d’Eau, and the Flower Clock in the Jardin Anglais. At some point before the afternoon fades, consider one of the boat tours of Lac Léman. Stay overnight in Geneva, which is one of the major transportation hubs of Switzerland. In Geneva you can usually link up by train or plane to where you’re going next in Europe. It can also be a link in your journey homeward.
Switzerland in 2 Weeks
With 2 weeks to explore Switzerland, you have a bit more breathing time, and you can take in some of the more esoteric destinations, such as Gruyères (of cheese fame) and Appenzell (capital of folkloric religion). The second week will also allow you to visit not only the cities previewed above, but also less touristy centers such as Basel.
Switzerland in 2 Weeks
Days 1 & 2: Geneva: Your Entry into Switzerland ★★★
On this trip, we enter Switzerland from its French-speaking western frontier, the international city of Geneva. If you arrive early enough, take our morning walking tour, which will allow you to see the highlights of the quays and the Old Town, including such attractions as the famous fountain, Jet d’Eau, trademark of the city. You can also explore Old Town landmarks like Place di Bourge-de-Four. In the afternoon visit Musée Ariana, one of Europe’s top pottery and glass museums (allow less than an hour), and the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire (Museum of Art and History; ), with a fabulous collection covering everything from Swiss timepieces to Picasso. Allow an hour for a visit here. If time allows, duck into the Palais des Nations, former seat of the League of Nations. Overnight in Geneva.
On Day 2, while still based in Geneva, take a full-day tour of Lac Léman (Lake Geneva; for full details). Departures are at 9am daily, with a return at 8:45pm. You’ll be back in Geneva in time for a late dinner.
Day 3: Montreux: Chief Resort of the Swiss Riviera ★★
It’s best to rent a car when you leave Geneva for this exploration of Switzerland. Drive 100km (62 miles) east from Geneva and you’ll arrive at this chic resort on Lac Léman. Expect a balmy climate as you explore Château of Chillon, which Lord Byron wrote about in The Prisoner of Chillon. The château will be the man-made highlight of your visit. After lunch head for Rochers-de-Naye, at 2,042m (6,698 ft.), reached by cogwheel train from Montreux. One of the greatest vistas in all of western Switzerland unfolds at the top. That night, if you’re a gambler, you can descend on Casino de Montreux.
Days 4 & 5: Vevey ★ & Lausanne ★★
In the morning, drive 6km (4 miles) northwest of Montreux, arriving in Vevey, the home of Nestlé chocolate. Many famous artists have lived here, and Charlie Chaplin chose it as his final residence. Start your exploration at Grand-Place, the large market square and town nerve center. All the museums are minor, but if you have time for one, make it Musée historique de Vevey, viewing its section on winemaker relics. Have lunch at Café de La Clef, where Jean Jacques Rousseau stayed in 1730, before continuing to Lausanne, which lies 18km (11 miles) to the west. Check in to a hotel in Lausanne for 2 nights.
In the afternoon explore Ouchy, the port area along the lakefront, especially the promenades, Quai de Belgique and Quai d’Ouchy. Filled with tropical plants, these gardens stretch for half a mile.
On the morning of Day 5, explore Lausanne’s Haute Ville, or Upper Town. Allow 45 minutes for a visit. You will still have time for a visit to the Château de Beaulieu et Musée de l’Art Brut, a château from 1756 with a museum of paintings by the criminally insane. For a change of pace, take one of the lake steamers leaving every hour in summer, heading for Evian-les-Bains, one of the leading resorts of Lake Geneva (which lies across the French border). Along the way you can take in the beauty of the lake (Lac Léman is French). Once at Evian, you can walk its fashionable lakeside promenade before returning to your hotel in Lausanne for the night.
Day 6: Gruyères ★★ & Fribourg ★★
Leave Lausanne in the morning and head 56km (35 miles) northeast to the small town of Gruyères, seat of the counts of Gruyères and known for its château and its famous cheese. The highlight of a visit here is the Château Gruyères, which is filled with art and antiques. Allow 1 hour for a visit. Allow another hour to visit the Fromagerie de Démonstration, a model dairy where the famed cheese is made. If you find yourself in Gruyères for lunch, and you’re into cheese, order raclette. This traditional Swiss specialty is served all over town.
After lunch, continue on to Fribourg for the night, 35km (22 miles) north of Gruyères. You can stroll around this university city, set between lakes and mountains, and visit its major attraction, St. Nicholas’s Cathedral. Allow 30 minutes. If time remains, duck into its Eglise des Cordeliers, a historic Franciscan church. Overnight in Fribourg.
Days 7 & 8: Murten ★★ & Bern ★★★
Leave Fribourg in the morning and drive 18km (11 miles) north to Murten. Allow an hour for a walk along its medieval ramparts, plus another 40 minutes to stroll its main street, Hauptgasse. You can also pay a 45-minute visit to the Musée Historique, installed in an 8th-century mill.
Remain in Murten for lunch then set out for Bern, the capital of Switzerland. Check in to a hotel for 2 nights. With the time remaining in the afternoon, visit the famous Bärengraben (Bear Pits; ), and the Cathedral of St. Vincent, with its celebrated tympanum over the main portal.
On the morning of Day 8, spend at least 1 1/2 hours in the Kunstmuseum (Fine Arts Museum), with its exceptional collection of world art dating from the 1300s. Before the morning ends, take our 2-hour walking tour of Altstadt. After lunch spend about an hour visiting the Historisches Museum Bern (Bern Historic Museum; ), followed by a tour of the Bundeshaus, a Renaissance palace housing the Swiss Parliament. To cap your visit, take the cable train to Mount Gurten at 844m (2,768 ft.) for one of the grandest panoramas in the area. Spend your final night in Bern by going to a famous old wine tavern, the Klötzlikeller.
Day 9: Solothurn ★ & Basel ★★★
Leave Bern in the morning and drive 43km (27 miles) north to Solothurn. At the foot of the Jura mountains, Solothurn offers a rewarding 3 hours of exploration, as you visit its Old Town on the left bank of the Aare River, taking in its Cathedral of St. Ursus. With time remaining, call at the Kunstmuseum Solothurn (Municipal Fine Arts Museum), taking in such paintings as the Madonna of Solothurn by Holbein the Younger.
After lunch continue to drive north into Basel, a distance of 69km (43 miles). Try to visit Basel’s two main attractions, the Zoologischer Garten Basel, one of the greatest zoos in the world, and Fondation Beyeler, one of Switzerland’s finest museums of modern art. Overnight in Basel.
Days 10 & 11: Lucerne: Lake Tours & Mountain Vistas ★★★
From Basel, drive 96km (60 miles) southeast to the city of Lucerne. After checking in to a hotel for 2 nights, set out to conquer this lakeside town by spending 2 1/2 hours taking our walking tour, which covers the scenic highlights. In the afternoon, head to the Swiss Transport Museum, one of the finest museums of its kind in the world. If time remains, visit Neues Kunstmuseum (Modern Art Museum; ), with both a permanent collection and temporary exhibitions.
Spend all of Day 11 taking two of Switzerland’s most popular mountain excursions: one to Mount Pilatus in the morning, the other to Rigi in the afternoon. These are described above under “Switzerland in 1 Week,” Day 4.
Day 12: Appenzell: Strong on Folklore ★
From Lucerne, drive 129km (80 miles) to Appenzell, the most folkloric town of northeastern Switzerland. Take about 2 hours to explore the town, doing some shopping along its Hauptgasse for regional handicrafts. Have lunch at Hof, before heading out in the afternoon to visit Ebenalp, a distance of 6km (4 miles). This jagged promontory at 1,620m (5,314 ft.) offers one of the most stunning panoramas of the Appenzell district. For an even grander look, visit Mount Säntis, the highest peak at 2,463m (8,079 ft.), for the single most spectacular view of eastern Switzerland. It’s 14km (9 miles) west of Appenzell. Return to Appenzell for the night.
Days 13 & 14: Zurich ★★★
For your final look at Switzerland, head west from Appenzell for 99km (62 miles) to Zurich, the country’s largest city. For general orientation, follow our two walking tours, which will take you into the Altstadt and along the historic quays by the Limmat River.
In the afternoon, pay a visit to one of the city’s greatest attractions, the Landesmuseum (Swiss National Museum; ). This is your best introduction to the history and culture of the Swiss people.
On Day 14, your final day in Switzerland, see the stained-glass windows of the Fraumünster, admire the Romanesque and Gothic cathedral of Grossmünster, and spend some time at the Kunsthaus Zürich (Fine Arts Museum; ) viewing its treasure-trove of art.
After lunch, take in the Botanischer Garten, filled with works of the Impressionists. If enough time remains, take the mountain railway to Uetliberg for one of the great panoramic views of the area. Return to the city center for the night, perhaps spending it at Bierhalle Kropf, the city’s most famous beer hall, serving hearty regional cuisine.
The next morning you’ll find that Zurich has the best rail and air connections of any city in Switzerland, whether you’re returning home or going somewhere else in Europe.
Switzerland for Families
Many of Switzerland’s pleasures and pastimes, such as alpine skiing and mountain trekking, are strictly adult-oriented. Nonetheless, it’s one of the great outdoor countries in Europe, and all its major cities, such as Geneva and Zurich, offer activities that the entire family can enjoy.
If you’re on a rushed weeklong schedule, our suggestion is to spend only 1 night in the two main cities, Geneva and Zurich, but 2 nights each in the more kid-friendly cities of Interlaken and Lucerne, because of all the thrilling mountain excursions possible from these two resorts.
Switzerland for Families
Day 1: Zurich: Your Arrival Point ★★★
On Day 1 arrive as early as you can to crowd in as much sightseeing as possible, since you have only a day. The best and quickest way to see the city is to walk about the famous quays of Zurich, which are riverside promenades along the Limmat. Many of these quays open onto beautiful gardens where the entire family can rest their feet. The town’s major attraction is the Landesmuseum (Swiss National Museum; ), which has something for all ages, such as antique dollhouses built over various periods for the very young. Older boys will be fascinated by the display of weapons and armor, and there are always special exhibitions. After lunch, families can head for the Botanischer Garten, which features some 15,000 living specimens. If you’ve gotten through the day with time to spare, you can visit either the Zürcher Spielzeugmuseum (Zurich Toy Museum; ) or one of the best zoos in Europe, Zoologischer Garten. You can also pick up a map listing 80 different playgrounds at the tourist office.
Days 2 & 3: Lucerne: Mountains & Lakes ★★★
On Day 2 leave Zurich and head 50km (31 miles) south to Lake Lucerne and its “queen,” the city of Lucerne itself. Check in to a hotel for 2 nights, and take the whole family on our walking tour, which will take you by the big attractions. The major sight of Lucerne is something the whole family can enjoy: the Verkehrshaus der Schweiz (Swiss Transport Museum; ). There’s everything from spaceships to an adventure ride called the Gotthard Tunnel Show here. There’s even the Longies planetarium where space travel is simulated. In the afternoon, take the kids to the Bourbaki Panorama, a replica of the famous 19th-century battle, followed by an excursion on one of the flotilla of lake steamers plying across Lake Lucerne. Some summer boat excursions last 4 hours, and there is a cafeteria onboard. (Ships are operated by Lake Lucerne Navigation Co.)
On Day 3, while still based in Lucerne, take your family on two of the most famous mountain excursions in Switzerland, Mount Pilatus and Rigi (see Day 4 under “Switzerland in 1 Week,” earlier in this chapter). Because of public transportation, such as a cog railway, getting there is part of the fun.
Day 4: Bern: Capital of Switzerland ★★★
On Day 4, leave Lucerne heading for the capital city of Bern, 111km (69 miles) to the west. Swiss politics will hold little interest for children, but the Bärengraben (Bear Pits; ) is a surefire winner. These pampered bears are the best fed in Europe, carrots being their favorite food. Families may also enjoy the Zytgloggeturm (Clock Tower; ), which, 4 minutes before the hour, stages the oldest and biggest horological puppet show, with mechanical bears and the like. Another popular attraction is the Dählhölzli Tierpark, one of the best zoos in Switzerland, with everything from exotic reptiles to musk oxen. Later, an excursion to Mount Gurten at 844m (2,768 ft.) is in order. Not only do you get a panoramic view, but there’s also a children’s fairyland on-site. After a final stroll along Marktgasse, the main street of Old Town, you can call it a day.
Days 5 & 6: Interlaken: The Bernese Oberland ★★★
On Day 5, drive 54km (34 miles) southeast of Bern to reach Interlaken, the tourist capital of the Bernese Oberland. This will be your launchpad for exploring the mighty Jungfraujoch at 3,400m (11,152 ft.), reached by traveling to the highest railway station in Europe.
Arriving in the morning in Interlaken, check in to a hotel for 2 nights and spend the rest of the morning exploring parklike Höheweg, covering 14 hectares (35 acres) in the center of town. All ages can admire the view of Jungfrau mountain and the famous flower clock. In the afternoon, take an excursion to the Wilderswil/Schynige Platte at 1,936m (6,350 ft.), where you’ll find an alpine garden. If time remains, try to fit in an excursion to Giessbach Falls, accessible by funicular, allowing about 2 hours for the excursion. Return to Interlaken for the night.
On the morning of Day 6, set out by Jungfrau Railways for a day’s excursion to the aforementioned Jungfraujoch. Families can purchase a Family Card for the whole brood. Attractions at the top include the famous Eispalast (Ice Palace), and there are lofty alpine restaurants as well. Later you can take the family on a sleigh ride pulled by huskies. Departures from Interlaken are daily at 8am, with a return at 4pm. Overnight once again in Interlaken.
Day 7: Geneva ★★★
On your final day in Switzerland, Day 7, leave Interlaken in the morning and drive 218km (135 miles) southwest across some of the most beautiful scenery in the country, both lake and mountain, until you come to Geneva. After checking in to a hotel, set out to discover one of Europe’s most regal cities. Kids delight in seeing the famous fountain, Jet d’Eau, and the Flower Clock in the Jardin Anglais. A walk through the Old Town, or Vieille Ville, can be a highlight of the trip. Wind down in the Parc Mon-Repos, perhaps securing the makings of a picnic. Later you can visit the Jardin Botanique (Botanical Garden; ), with its alpine garden and little zoo. Older children are often interested in the adventure movie and exhibitions at the Musée International de la Croix-Rouge et du Croissant-Rouge, devoted to the Red Cross. Overnight in Geneva.
The Grisons, the Engadine & Ticino
Graubünden (the Swiss name for the Grisons) is crowned by St. Moritz but also shelters such fabled resorts as Klosters and Davos. The province covers more than one-sixth of Switzerland and many—certainly the local residents—consider it the most beautiful part of the entire country. Its geographic landscape has staggering statistics: 615 lakes, 150 valleys, and 937 mountain peaks.
Bordering it is the dramatically different Ticino, centering around Locarno and Lugano. This is Switzerland with an Italian accent, and the look of the resorts, with their date palms and manicured gardens, is Mediterranean. In its heart, the Ticino belongs to sunny Italy, but German-speaking Switzerland dominates the district politically. However, their culture and language are strictly Italian.
The Grisons, the Engadine & Ticino
Day 1: Klosters: Prince Charles & Movie People ★★
Begin your trip to the Grisons in the Prattigau Valley resort of Klosters, a favorite retreat for Prince Charles and his sons today, and, in the past, literary figures such as Robert Louis Stevenson, who wrote Treasure Island here. If you’re driving here from Zurich, your gateway city can be Chur, which is 122km (76 miles) southeast of Zurich. Once at Chur, you still have a 29km (18-mile) drive east to arrive at Klosters. If you visit in winter, you’ve come to ski. But most visitors making these driving tours do so in the summer. In that case, you can spend the rest of the afternoon taking in the mountain beauty of the resort. Both the Madrisa and the Gotschna-Parsenn cable cars will take you to the most scenic points in the mountains, where you can hike through woods and alpine meadows along well-marked trails. Allow at least 4 hours for these treks. Overnight in Klosters.
Days 2 & 3: St. Moritz: The Ne Plus Ultra ★★★
On the morning of Day 2, leave early to get some sightseeing time in at Klosters’s rival resort, Davos, 11km (7 miles) south of Klosters (many expat writers and artists have preferred Davos to Klosters). Take the cableway to Weissflühgipfel at a height of 2,778m (9,112 ft.) for the best panorama in this part of eastern Switzerland. Transit time is only half an hour.
After returning to your car, continue the drive 80km (50 miles) south of Davos to St. Moritz, where you can check in to a hotel for 2 nights. Although St. Moritz is at its ritzy best in winter, it also attracts summer visitors to the mountain beauty of the Engadine (you’ve left the Grisons at this point). After lunch in St. Moritz, you can visit the Engadine Museum to view artifacts of the history of the region. Part of the fun of a summer visit is selecting from an array of summer sports that include windsurfing on the lakes, golfing, tennis, hiking, and even fishing. Plan an activity that fits your interest or just spend the day walking around the streets of this posh resort window-shopping (or shopping-shopping, if your budget allows).
If you’re into panoramas, you can go to Piz Nair, the highest skiable mountain at 3,251m (10,663 ft.). The trip up takes 30 minutes by funicular to Corviglia. You go the rest of the way by cable car and on foot. Your reward from the terrace of the upper cable-car station is to look down on the Upper Engadine and its lakes, a vast panorama embracing the Bernina Alps.
On the morning of Day 3, while still based in St. Moritz, set out to explore some of the mountain scenery and the satellite towns of Engadine. One of the great drives in the area is to head southwest from St. Moritz, going through the resorts of Silvaplana and Sils-Maria until you reach Maloja Pass at 1,786m (5,858 ft.). Hikers come to Maloja to begin one of the great walks in the Engadine—or all of Switzerland, for that matter—going for 14km (8.5 miles) to the resort of Silvaplana, taking about 3 to 3 1/2 hours for this alpine trek. If you’d like something less strenuous, take the 2-hour drive to the Bernina Pass, going 55km (34 miles) between St. Moritz and Tirano in Italy. This is one of the great drives in Europe, possible from June to September. Return to St. Moritz for a final night.
Days 4 & 5: Bellinzona & Locarno ★★
Leave St. Moritz on the morning of Day 4 via the Julierpass, cutting across a broad stretch of southeastern Switzerland’s great mountain scenery on your way. Follow the signs to the Passo del S. Bernardino, which you can take south into the Ticino, that Italian-speaking part of southern Switzerland. Your first stop can be in the town of Bellinzona, 152km (94 miles) southwest of St. Moritz. The town has three medieval fortifications. The best views are possible from Schwyz Castle.
After a lunch stopover, press on to the southwest to Locarno, a distance of 22km (14 miles) from Bellinzona. Plan to stay 2 nights in Locarno, a vacation resort opening onto Lake Maggiore. You’ll probably arrive too late in the day for much sightseeing, but you can at least explore the main square, piazza Grande, and take a lakeside promenade.
On the morning of Day 5, visit the Santuario della Madonna del Sasso, lying on a wooden crag above the resort in Orselina, where you’ll be rewarded with a panoramic view. For a dramatic drive, explore the Gambarogno Riviera, with its evocative Ticinese villages spread across a distance of 11km (6 1/2 miles) stretching to the Italian border. While still based in Locarno, and as part of the same day’s activities, drive southwest to the resort of Ascona, a distance of only 4km (2 1/2 miles). You can spend at least 2 hours visiting its Old Town and wandering its narrow streets, checking out the botanical garden on the Isole di Brissago. If time remains, head for the little village of Ronco, lying along the corniche, a distance of 18km (11 miles). A Mediterranean-style village, it’s one of the most evocative in the Ticino. Return to Locarno for the night.
Days 6 & 7: Lugano ★★★ & Morcote ★★
On the morning of Day 6, drive 39km (24 miles) southeast of Locarno to the even larger and more famous waterfront resort of Lugano, which tops even Locarno for natural beauty and architecture. Check in to a hotel for 2 nights. Before lunch, walk around the city park, Parco Civico, which opens onto Lake Lugano. There may even be time to duck into Chiesa di Santa Maria degli Angeli to see its famous frescoes by Bernardino Luini.
In the afternoon, we suggest renting a bike (perhaps from your hotel) and getting a map from the tourist office. Set out to explore the nature reserve of Origlio Lake and the villages of Tesserete and Colla. In all, the 4-hour trips goes for 37km (23 miles) and will give you some real atmosphere of the Ticino landscape. Then return to Locarno.
On the morning of Day 7, drive to the town of Morcote, 11km (7 miles) south of Lugano. We consider this the most idyllic in the Ticino. You can also reach it by a summer boat. Spend at least 2 hours exploring this village and plan on an early lunch at one of its fine restaurants. In the afternoon, head back to Lugano where you can go shopping for Ticino crafts or participate in one of a dozen or so summer activities—golf, tennis, boating, sailing, swimming, water-skiing, or windsurfing. See “The Active Vacation Planner” for suggestions. From Lugano you can make connections the following morning for a long trip back home or else another destination in Switzerland or Europe.