Chapter 8: The Bernese Oberland

The Bernese Oberland is one of the greatest tourist attractions in the world, mainly because it’s one of the best areas for winter sports. The region sprawls between the Reuss River and Lake Geneva, with the Rhône forming its southern border. The area contains two lakes, the Thun and the Brienz, and takes in a portion of the Alps (culminating in the Finsteraarhorn at 4,207m/13,799 ft.). The canton of Bern, which encompasses most of the area, is the second largest in Switzerland and contains about 160 sq. km (62 sq. miles) of glaciers.

The best center for exploring the Bernese Oberland is Interlaken, most popular as a summer resort. Other cities in the region, such as Gstaad, Grindelwald, Kandersteg, and Mürren, are both summer and winter playgrounds. You can ski the mountains during winter and swim, sail, and water-ski on Lake Thun in the summer.

The Bernese Oberland

Exploring the Bernese Oberland

To compensate for the region’s almost impossible geography, Swiss engineers have crisscrossed the Oberland with cogwheel railways (some of them still driven by steam), aerial cableways, and sinuous mountain roads. Though often a confusing experience, getting to a particular resort can be part of the fun. The region’s busiest railroad junction, and the point where most travelers change trains for local railways, is Interlaken.

You can buy a transportation pass for the Bernese Oberland from the Swiss Rail System. The train ticket is valid for 7 days and costs 234F in second class and 283F in first class. Another pass, valid for 15 days, costs 293F in second class and 350F in first class. With the 7-day pass, you’ll travel free for 3 days and pay a reduced fare for the final 4 days. With a 15-day pass, you’ll travel free for 5 days and pay reduced fares for the rest of the time. Children travel at half-price. The pass is valid on most railroads; all mountain trains, cable cars, chairlifts, and steamers on Lakes Thun and Brienz; and most postal-bus lines in the area. The ticket also qualifies you for a 25% reduction on the Kleine Scheidegg-Eigergletscher-Jungfraujoch railway, the Mürren-Schilthorn aerial cable line, and the bus to Grosse Scheidegg and Bussalp. You must purchase the pass at least 1 week before you arrive. For information about the pass, call 058/327-32-71 or visit www.myswissalps.com.

Since Interlaken is the focal point of one of the most complicated networks of ski lifts in the world, most visitors opt to buy a comprehensive pass that allows unlimited access to the cog railways, buses, cable cars, chairlifts, and gondolas (incorporating every mechanical lift in and around Interlaken, Wengen, Grindelwald, and Mürren). Sold at the Interlaken tourist office (see “Interlaken,” below) and tourist offices at the other leading resorts, it’s called the Jungfrau Top Ski Region Pass. You can buy the 2-day pass for 129F, the 5-day pass for 275F, or the 7-day pass for 348F. Discounts of 10% are offered to seniors 62 and older, discounts of 20% to youths ages 16 to 20, and discounts of 50% to children 6 to 15. Kids 5 and under travel for only 10% of the above rates. This pass also incorporates access to 44 ski lifts, 204km (127 miles) of well-groomed downhill runs, 99km (60 miles) of prepared walking and cross-country ski paths, and 50km (31 miles) of tobogganing runs. It covers the region around Grindelwald, Wengen, and Mürren.

Other passes include the following:

• First Region Ski Pass is a small-scale cluster of ski lifts, favored by beginners and intermediates, that includes six lifts and a gondola. It’s available only for the region immediately around Grindelwald and does not include Wengen. A 1-day pass costs 62F, a 2-day pass 112F.

• Kleine Männlichen and Scheidegg Pass offer the same scale of difficulty as the First Region Ski Pass, as well as the same price (1- and 2-day passes are the only offerings).

By Mountain Bike Hundreds of miles of cycling paths riddle the Bernese Oberland, and most of them begin in Interlaken. Separate from the network of hiking paths, the bike routes are signposted and marked on rental maps distributed at bike-rental agencies; it’s the law to use only specially signposted routes and not destroy plant and animal life or ride across private fields. Hikers, incidentally, are given the right of way over bikers. To make arrangements to rent a bike, call 033/823-15-34. Rates usually begin at 45F per day, going up.

On Foot The Bernese Oberland is ideal for walkers and hikers. The natural terrain here will satisfy everyone from the most ambitious mountain hiker to the casual stroller.

Trails designed for walkers branch out from almost every junction. Most are paved and signposted, showing distances and estimated walking times. Tourist offices can suggest itineraries for walkers.

For the more athletic, itineraries include long hikes far afield in the mountains, with suggestions for overnight accommodations en route.

Even if you don’t feel up to scaling alpine peaks, you can still go on walks. Take one of the Swiss postal-bus rides uphill to a village, then stroll back down to Interlaken, for example. Be warned, however, that walking downhill in Switzerland can still strain your calf muscles.

Interlaken ★★★

54km (34 miles) SE of Bern; 130km (81 miles) SW of Zurich

Interlaken is the tourist capital of the Bernese Oberland. Cableways and cog railways designed for steeply inclined mountains connect it with most of the region’s villages and dazzling sights, including the snowy heights of the Jungfrau, which rises a short distance to the south. Excursion possibilities from Interlaken are both numerous and dazzling.

This “town between the lakes” (Thun and Brienz) has been a vacation resort for more than 300 years. Although it began as a summer resort, it developed into a year-round playground, altering its allure as the seasons change. During the winter, skiers take advantage of the town’s low prices. Interlaken charges low-season prices in January and February, when smaller resorts at higher altitudes are charging their highest rates of the year. The most expensive time to visit Interlaken is during midsummer, when high-altitude and snowless ski resorts often charge their lowest rates.

An Augustinian monastery was founded in Interlaken in 1130 but was later closed during the Reformation; the ruins can still be seen in a park in the center of town. Tourism to the area is said to have begun in 1690, when Margrave Frederic Albert of Brandenburg journeyed into the snow-covered rocks of the Jungfrau massif. However, tourism as we know it today dawned at the beginning of the 19th century, when artists and writers—many of them British—were drawn to the town by its scenery. As the country’s railroad and steamer services improved, a steady stream of visitors followed, including such notables as Mark Twain, Goethe (who seems to have lived everywhere), Wagner, Mendelssohn, and representatives of European royal families.

Essentials

Getting There There are several trains daily between Zurich and Interlaken (2 hr.) and between Bern and Interlaken (40 min.). Frequent train service also connects Geneva with Interlaken (2 1/2 hr.). For additional rail information, call 0900/300-300.

Note: Although the town has two different railway stations, Interlaken East and Interlaken West, West is more convenient to the city’s center.

If you’re driving from Bern, head south on N6 to Spiez, then continue east on N8 to Interlaken.

Getting AROUND Train arrivals are at either Interlaken East or Interlaken West. If you’re loaded with luggage, you’ll want to grab a taxi. However, after you’ve been deposited at one of the local hotels (nearly all of which are in the city center), you’ll rarely need a taxi—the town is closely knit and best explored on foot. Buses are convenient for connections to the satellite towns and villages or heading to the outskirts. The bus station is at Areckstrasse 6. There is no number to call for bus information.

Visitor Information The Tourism Organization Interlaken is in the Hotel Metropole at Höheweg 37 ( 033/826-53-00; www.interlaken.ch). Hours are July and August Monday to Friday 8am to 7pm, Saturday 8am to 5pm, and Sunday 10am to noon and 5 to 7pm. In September, hours are Monday to Friday 8am to 6pm, and Saturday 9am to 1pm. From October to April, hours are Monday to Friday 8am to noon and 1:30 to 6pm, Saturday 9am to noon. May and June hours are Monday to Friday 8am to 6pm, and Saturday 8am to 4pm.

A visitor’s card is granted to persons registered at local hotels and confers certain discounts to some of the local attractions.

Exploring the Area

It’s simple: The best way to see everything in Interlaken is to walk. You can either randomly stroll around, enjoying the panoramic views in all directions, or follow a more structured walking tour. If you’d like some guidance, go to the tourist office (see above) and ask for a copy of What a Wonderful World, providing maps and listing hotels and local attractions.

The Höheweg ★★ covers 14 hectares (35 acres) in the middle of town between the two train stations. Once the property of Augustinian monks, it was acquired in the mid–19th century by the hotel keepers of Interlaken, who turned it into a park. As you stroll along Höhenpromenade, admire the famous view of the Jungfrau mountain. Another beautiful sight is the flower clock at the Casino Kursaal. You’re also sure to see some fiacres (horse-drawn cabs). The promenade is lined with hotels, cafes, and gardens.

Cross over the Aare River to Unterseen, built in 1280 by Berthold von Eschenbach. Here you can visit the parish church, with its late-Gothic tower dating from 1471. This is one of the most photographed sights in the Bernese Oberland. The Mönch appears to the left of the tower, the Jungfrau on the right.

Back in Interlaken, visit the Touristik-Museum der Jungfrau-Region, am Stadthausplatz, Obere Gasse 28 ( 033/822-98-39), the first regional tourism museum in the country. Exhibitions show the growth of tourism in the region throughout the past 2 centuries. The museum is open from May to mid-October Tuesday to Sunday from 2 to 5pm. Admission is 5F, or 4F with a visitor’s card. Children are charged 2F.

To see the sights of Interlaken, Matten, and Unterseen by fiacre, line up at the Interlaken West train station. The half-hour round-trip tour costs 40F for one or two, plus 12F for each additional person; children 7 to 16 are charged half fare, and those 6 and under ride free.

Other attractions in the area include animal parks, afternoon concerts, and steamers across lakes Brienz and Thun. During the summer, visitors can sit in covered grandstands and watch Schiller’s version of the William Tell story and the formation of the Swiss Confederation. We also recommend the delectable pastries sold in the local cafes.

The great mysteries of the world are revealed at Jungfrau Park ( 033/827-57-57), a theme park outside Interlaken. It can be reached by taking the Jungfrau Park Express electro-shuttle at the Höhenweg Station in the center of town. The park has been called a venue for “UFO-ologists, New Age mystics, and conspiracy theorists.” Its owners claim they question “sacred cows and explore alternate theories about ancient cultures, solving such questions as to who constructed the Pyramids or Stonehenge in the West Country of England.” Multi-media presentations explore these mysteries and others.

The park was designed by Erich von Däniken, amd consists of seven pavilions, each of which explores one of the great mysteries of the world. Von Däniken believes that aliens played a great influence on Earth, as all the attractions demonstrate. However, the Academia Suisse des Sciences Techniques has labeled the mystery park a “cultural Chernobyl.”

It is open April 22 to October 30 daily 10am to 6pm. Admission is 38F for adults, 26F for students, and 20F for ages 6 to 16. Free for kids 5 and under.

Outdoor Activities

If you’re feeling energetic, or just looking to work off an excess of fondue dipping, Interlaken offers many opportunities for sports—sailing, windsurfing, rowing, fishing, golf, tennis, mountain trekking, and glider flying. There’s also a swimming pool in town. More information is available at the tourist office.

Golf You can play at the Interlaken-Unterseen course ( 033/823-60-16; www.interlakengolf.ch) from April to October. The cost is 100F Monday to Friday and 120F Saturday and Sunday. With a visitor’s card, the cost is reduced to 90F on weekdays and 110F on weekends.

Horseback Riding There are several bridle paths between Lake Thun and Lake Brienz. The Voegeli Riding School, Scheidgasse 66, in Unterseen ( 033/822-74-16; www.reitschulevoegeli.ch), offers 1-hour riding lessons for 55F.

Swimming There’s a public indoor pool and a public open-air pool, Bödeli ( 033/827-90-90; www.boedelibad.ch), behind the Kursaal. The indoor pool has a sauna and a solarium as well as a fitness room. This pool is open year-round Monday 2 to 9pm, Tuesday to Friday 9am to 9:45pm, and Saturday and Sunday 9am to 6pm. Entrance is 9F for adults, 5F for children 6 to 16, and free for children 5 and under. The outdoor pool, with its changing cabins and 9.9m (32-ft.) diving board, is open mid-May through September daily from 9am to 7pm. Keep in mind, though, that even July and August might be too chilly for you. Entrance is 6.60F for adults and 3.50F for children.

Tennis Use of a court at the Höhematte costs 25F per hour for visitors. If you’re alone and willing to be matched up with another person, it will cost you half the court fee. For reservations, phone 033/822-14-72. The courts are open from mid-April to mid-October daily from 8am to 8 or 9pm.

Shopping

True to its role as the nerve center of the entire Oberland region, Interlaken stocks an ample supply of souvenirs and sports equipment. You’ll find all the handicrafts and art objects you could possibly need beside the resort’s main street, Höheweg, and around the Interlaken West railway station. One of the best shops, which has been a fixture for tourists since the turn of the 20th century, is Heimatwerk Interlaken, Höheweg 115 ( 033/822-16-53). It stocks only goods manufactured in Switzerland, including a wholesome and comprehensive roster of woodcarved children’s toys, tablecloths and linens, cutting boards and cheese boards, ceramics, and glass. Since Interlaken has higher-altitude ski and hill-climbing resorts stretching upward on virtually all sides, you won’t lack for purveyors of sporting-goods equipment. Two of the best are Intersport, Postgasse 16 ( 033/822-06-61), and Score Sport, Bahnhofstrasse 25 ( 033/822-73-22).

Where to Stay

Very Expensive

Lindner Grand Hotel Beau-Rivage ★★★ This government-rated five-star and reconstructed Belle Epoque–style hotel between Höheweg and the Aare River is one of Interlaken’s grand hotels. Only Victoria-Jungfrau is better. The Beau-Rivage sells luxury on a smaller, more intimate scale than its competitors, and is located in a very tranquil spot. It’s only a short distance from the Interlaken East rail station, which makes it a good center for excursions in all directions. The central tower has an ascending series of covered loggias decorated with carvings and flowers, a triangular pediment, and a mansard roof. There are two wings with gables and wrought-iron balconies. The renovated rooms are conservatively modern with excellent beds and nicely kept bathrooms. The front rooms open onto the Jungfrau, and the rooms in the rear are not only quieter, but also face the river.

Höheweg 211, CH-3800 Interlaken. www.lindner.de. 033/826-70-07. Fax 033/823-28-47. 101 units. 359F–419F double; 539F–1,199F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking outdoors. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; bikes; concierge; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: A/C (in some), TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (30F per 24 hr.).

Victoria-Jungfrau Grand Hotel & Spa ★★★ Since 1865, this grand hotel has reigned as one of the most important resort properties in Switzerland. The owner of the Victoria Hotel, Edouard Ruchti, united it with the Jungfrau Hotel in 1895, and the landmark property has stood ever since. Everyone from the emperor of Brazil to the king of Siam to Mark Twain has passed through its corridors. During World War II, the hotel served as headquarters of the Swiss commander in chief, General Henri Guisan. Designed in a richly ornate Victorian style, it sits right in the town center at the foot of rigidly symmetrical gardens. The hotel boasts valuable antiques and one of the best-trained staff in Interlaken. The most expensive rooms open onto views of the Jungfrau. The midsize to spacious accommodations are luxurious.

Höheweg 41, CH-3800 Interlaken. www.victoria-jungfrau.ch. 800/223-6800 in the U.S., or 033/828-28-28. Fax 033/828-28-80. 212 units. 606F–796F double; from 1,056F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking outside, 35F in garage. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; children’s center; concierge; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; spa; 5 tennis courts (lit). In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (30F per 24 hr.).

Expensive

Hotel Interlaken ★ This is the resort’s oldest hotel, receiving overnight guests since 1323, first as a hospital, later as a cloister, and, beginning in the early 1400s, as a tavern and inn. Guests have included Byron and Felix Mendelssohn. The hotel, directly east of the casino, has been gutted and rebuilt since, with a salmon-colored facade sporting baroque touches. The most expensive rooms have a few 19th-century antiques; the rest have conservative, modern furnishings with excellent beds and well-maintained bathrooms.

Höheweg 74, CH-3800 Interlaken. www.interlakenhotel.ch. 033/826-68-68. Fax 033/826-68-69. 60 units. 176F–360F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Half board 45F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (25F per 24 hr.).

Hotel Metropole ★★ Americans often prefer this sleek, modern hotel in the city center (the only skyscraper in the Bernese Oberland), to the aging palaces of Interlaken. The 18-story building was built in 1976 and has since been stylishly renovated. It’s the most up-to-date and best-managed hotel in town. The small, standardized rooms have plush carpeting, modern furniture, and balconies. All units have neatly kept bathrooms. Those facing south have a panoramic view of Interlaken and the towering mountains. Try to steer clear of the 18 units in the annex, as they are a bit lackluster and have no views.

Höheweg 37, CH-3800 Interlaken. www.metropole-interlaken.ch. 800/223-5652 in the U.S., or 033/828-66-66. Fax 033/828-66-33. 95 units. 109F–363F double; 366F–593F suite. Half board 55F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 8F outside, 14F in garage. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (29F per 24 hr.).

Moderate

Alpenblick ★ Instead of staying in Interlaken itself, consider a retreat to the neighboring village of Wilderswil, 4km (2 1/2 miles) from the center, to this small inn with the area’s most outstanding restaurant, Gourmetstübli (see below). Bedrooms are cozy, comfortable, and well furnished, and housekeeping is first-rate, as is the welcome from the friendly owners. There is a rustic air about the place, and an escape to this alpine retreat allows motorists to avoid the congestion of Interlaken.

Oberdorfstrasse 3, CH-3812 Wilderswil. www.hotel-alpenblick.ch. 033/828-35-50. Fax 033/828-35-51. 37 units. 190F–250F double; 237F–310F suite. MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (16F for 1 hr.).

Hotel Weisses Kreuz This safe and tranquil hotel is located on the famous Höheweg, right in the center of Interlaken. The interior is pleasantly decorated yet simple, and the bedrooms are newly renovated. Each has a well-maintained bathroom. Owned and managed by the Bieri family since 1911, the hotel offers a brasserie-style restaurant with Italian/Swiss cuisine. In summer, guests gravitate to its boulevard terrace for people-watching, drinks, and pastries.

Höheweg (at Jungfraustrasse), CH-3800 Interlaken. www.weisseskreuz.ch. 033/826-03-50. Fax 033/823-35-55. 56 units. 85F–110F per person double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 10F (nearby). Amenities: Restaurant; Internet (free, in lobby). In room: TV, hair dryer.

Park-Hotel Mattenhof ★ This large, old-fashioned, government-rated four-star hotel is in a secluded area at the edge of a forest 2km (1 1/4 miles) south of the town center; you can reach it by heading away from the center toward Wilderswil. The exterior looks like a private castle, with its high, pointed roof, tower, loggias, and balconies. It was originally built as a simple and sedate pension in 1897, but adopted most of its mock-medieval form after a massive enlargement in 1906. During World War II, it functioned as a hospital for injured soldiers, but for the past 30 years it has been managed by Peter Bühler and his family. They offer a calm retreat with terraces, manicured lawns, and panoramic views of the Alps. The salons are warmly decorated and sunny, and some of the small, well-furnished bedrooms have a view of the Jungfrau and the Niederhorn. All have well-kept bathrooms, and several also are equipped with a balcony.

Hauptstrasse 36, Matten, CH-3800 Interlaken. www.park-mattenhof.ch. 033/828-12-81. Fax 033/822-28-88. 63 units. May–Sept 200F–260F double; off season 140F–170F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; outdoor pool; Wi-Fi (free, in lobby). In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Royal St. Georges ★ Built in 1907, this oft-restored hotel is a historical landmark structure. In spite of several renovations, it has retained its traditional character. In contrast to the old-style architecture, the bedrooms are up-to-date, ranging in size from small to exceedingly spacious. Some of the suites are in the Victorian style. Bathrooms are generous in size and often stylized, such as a special Art Nouveau bathroom. The hotel is divided into two parts, the Royal Wing and the St. Georges Wing, linked to each other through a gangway. Unlike most peas-in-a-pod hotel rooms, this government-rated four-star choice offers individualized bedrooms—you’d be hard-pressed to find two rooms that are identical.

Höheweg 139, CH-3800 Interlaken. www.royal-stgeorges.ch. 033/822-75-75. Fax 033/823-30-75. 95 units. 190F–330F double; 300F–480F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Jacuzzi; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (30F per 24 hr.).

Inexpensive

Hotel Alphorn ★ This bed-and-breakfast oozes charm the old-fashioned way. From the flower boxes that adorn the ground-floor windows to the vibrant colors of the breakfast room, this place has an inviting ambience. The rooms are small but have a private bathroom with shower and toilet, as well as cable TV—which the host is proud to tell you includes CNN. There is a bar where patrons go after a long day, but don’t expect a rowdy crowd; this is a family-oriented and family-operated type of place.

Rothornstrasse 29a, CH-3800 Interlaken. www.hotel-alphorn.ch. 033/822-30-51. Fax 033/823-30-69. 10 units. 130F–180F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Bar. In room: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Lötschberg ★ A hotel that’s sure to transmit an old-fashioned sense of Swiss charm, this sprawling villa-style building rises from the city’s commercial core, a 3-minute walk from the railway station. Originally built in 1906 as a cost-conscious pension, and painted a striking shade of blue, it has been frequently improved, repaired, and renovated. All but three of the units have a TV, and the three that don’t are located within a simple, century-old guesthouse a short walk away. Rooms come in a wide variety of sizes, ranging from small units to medium-size ones (two to three guests), and even very spacious rooms, each comfortable enough for four persons. Breakfast is the only meal served within this hotel, but on the premises, under separate management, is an Asian restaurant that serves lunch and dinner. You can rent mountain bikes from the Hutmachers or even check your e-mail for a small fee. Rates in the apartments do not include breakfast.

Général Guisanstrasse 31, CH-3800 Interlaken. www.lotschberg.ch. 033/822-25-45. Fax 033/822-25-79. 19 units. 148F–220F double;120F–140F apt. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Closed Jan. Amenities: Restaurant; bikes. In room: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

The Swiss Inn This small Edwardian inn with balconies and gables offers good value. Mrs. Vreny Müller Lohner rents tasteful, simply decorated one- to three-room apartments equipped with comfortable beds and well-kept bathrooms. They accommodate two to six guests, and children’s beds or cots are available. The inn has a lounge, a sitting area with a fireplace, and a grill for barbecues in the garden.

Général Guisanstrasse 23, CH-3800 Interlaken. www.swiss-inn.com. 033/822-36-26. Fax 033/823-23-03. 9 units. 100F–160F double; 140F–200F apt for 2; 230F–250F apt for 4. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Internet (free, in lobby). In room: A/C (in some), TV, kitchenette (in some).

Where to Eat

Most guests dine at their hotels, which partially explains why such a world-famous resort as Interlaken has so few independent restaurants worth noting.

Expensive

Gourmetstübli ★★★ SWISS/INTERNATIONAL In the village of Wilderswil, at the Alpenblick hotel (see above), is the region’s most outstanding restaurant. At this gourmet citadel, the chefs marry traditional cooking with modern flair. Menus are sometimes composed and dedicated to a season, as in the case of a Summer Symphony: Start with a mousse of eggplant (aubergine), fresh tomato, and whitefish, and follow with such sublime dishes as tartar and filet of beef in an olive sauce and another sauce composed of radishes, or else whitefish filet with couscous and a cucumber curry sauce. Sorbets and homemade ice creams top the dessert menu, or else you can make a selection from the cheese wagon, featuring lots of Swiss alpine choices. A fine wine list enhances the experience.

In the Hotel Alpenblick, Oberdorfstrasse 3. 033/828-35-50. Main courses 60F–65F; fixed-price menus 120F for 4 courses, 180F for 7 courses. AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Sun noon–2pm and 5:30–9pm.

Moderate

Gasthof Hirschen SWISS This hotel restaurant serves some of the best and most reasonably priced meals in town. The menu is varied; the potato soup with mountain cheese is the finest we’ve ever tasted. Another tasty appetizer is the ravioli filled with salmon. For a main dish, we recommend sautéed calves’ liver, filet of beef bordelaise, beef goulash, broiled trout, or chateaubriand. The Hirschen also operates its own farm, which supplies Bio-Angus beef, veal, cheese, fresh vegetables, and herbs. Fresh berries and honey are also brought in from the farm during summer.

Hauptstrasse 11, Matten. 033/822-15-45. www.hirschen-interlaken.ch. Reservations recommended. Main courses 23F–42F. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 11am–1:30pm and 4:30–11pm; Sun 9am–11pm.

Il Bellini ★★ INTERNATIONAL This is one of the finest restaurants in the Bernese Oberland. Established in 1994, it sits one floor above the lobby in the tallest hotel in Interlaken, the Metropole, and is outfitted in a graceful 19th-century rendition of pale pinks and greens. The fresh, good-tasting food is served with a discreet panache you might expect in Italy, and includes an assortment of antipasti. You can order individual selections of hors d’oeuvres, including prosciutto with melon or smoked salmon and carpaccio. The soups, especially the homemade minestrone, are tasty, and the main courses include such delectable specialties as tender beefsteak Florentine, saltimbocca, and chicken breast grilled with tomatoes and mozzarella. The fish selections are limited but well chosen.

In the Hotel Metropole, Höheweg 37. 033/828-66-66. www.metropole-interlaken.ch. Reservations recommended Fri–Sun. Main courses 33F–62F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6:30–11pm.

Schuh SWISS/CHINESE/THAI This attractive restaurant and tearoom in the center of town has been known for its pastries since 1885. They are still the town’s finest. The alpine building has a thick roof arched over the fourth-floor windows and, in back, a sunny terrace with a view of the Jungfrau and a well-kept lawn. The dining room has large windows and a Viennese ambience. A pianist provides music. The menu changes with the season, but Swiss regional dishes are a feature, along with several Asian dishes, notably from Thailand and China. Some especially good-tasting choices are anglerfish roasted with hazelnuts, or Irish rack of lamb marinated with horseradish and served with a sage-flavored potato gnocchi. Another specialty is grilled chicken with cashew nuts.

Höheweg 56. 033/888-80-50. www.schuh-interlaken.ch. Main courses 25F–46F. AE, DC, MC, V. Apr–Sept Sun–Thurs 9am–11:30pm, Fri–Sat 9am–12:30am; Oct–Mar Sun–Thurs 9am–10pm, Fri–Sat 9am–11pm.

Spice India ★ INDIAN The Mathur family waited a long time for a restaurant of their own, and when they got it, they didn’t disappoint. Ideally located in between the Hotel Metropole and the City Hotel Oberland, this is a place where anyone who likes Indian food can enjoy a good meal served by people who are passionate about their restaurant. Among the top menu options are the Barrah kabobs (oven-grilled lamb marinated in yogurt with garlic and ginger paste), fish curry, filets of chicken, and basmati rice. There is also a vegetarian section from the menu and from that we recommend the baingan ka bharta (chargrilled eggplant with yogurt and cheese) and the aloo ghobi, a potato-and-cauliflower dish. The decor is a little bland for an exotic restaurant, but the food makes up for it.

Postgasse 6. 033/821-00-91. www.spice-india.net. Reservations required for large groups only. Main courses 24F–38F. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–2:30pm; daily 6–10:30pm.

Sternen da Mario PIZZA/ITALIAN This is the best pizzeria in town, lying in a district of shops in an all-pedestrian section of Interlaken. You’ll also find a complete menu of savory Italian dishes, including a tasty array of antipasti, ranging from shrimp cocktail to carpaccio. The salads are fresh and crisp, and the homemade soups, including a delectable minestrone, are made fresh daily. The pastas are also exceptional, especially the fusilli alla Sorrentina, inspired by recipes along the Amalfi Drive in Italy. A select array of fish and meat dishes, including scaloppini, is also served daily. Pizza margherita, based on a recipe created in Naples in 1889, is a specialty.

Jungfraustrasse 27. 033/822-34-25. www.sternen-interlaken.ch. Reservations not needed. Pizza 15F–23F; main courses 20F–39F. MC, V. Daily 11am–midnight.

Zum Bären SWISS Set within a richly folkloric setting whose origins go back to 1674, this is a worthwhile excursion for clients who want to escape the restrictions of their in-house dining plan for a view of old-fashioned alpine folklore. Expect lots of weathered and congenially battered paneling, dented wooden tables, chairs that have borne the weight of thousands of previous diners, and a standardized, mostly Swiss menu that’s redolent with rösti, schnitzels of both pork and veal, grilled filet of beef with peppercorn or béarnaise sauce, and minced veal in cream sauce, Zurich style. It all goes well with beer that’s served here in foaming mugfuls.

Seestrasse 2, Unterseen. 033/822-75-26. www.baeren-unterseen.ch. Reservations recommended. Main courses 28F–46F. MC, V. Oct–Apr Tues–Sun 8:30pm–midnight; May–Sept daily 8:30pm–midnight.

Interlaken After Dark

Merchants in Interlaken have always known how to inject their town with enough razzle-dazzle to keep visitors coming back. As such, Interlaken boasts one of the highest per-capita rates of nightclubs of any town its size in Switzerland. The town’s business is so transient—composed mostly of short-term visitors on their way to somewhere else—the clientele of any particular bar or club is likely to change virtually every week. Keeping that in mind, here’s a roster of those that, at this writing, were the most animated and/or fun.

You’ll usually find a drinking buddy in the folksy, amiably kitschy Victoria Bar in the town’s stateliest hotel, the Victoria-Jungfrau, Höheweg 41 ( 033/828-28-28). Buddy’s Pub, in the Hotel Splendid, Höheweg 33 ( 033/822-76-12; www.splendid.ch), provides a cozy, richly paneled setting that evokes an upscale version of a smoke-stained pub in Ireland.

If you want to combine drinking with dancing, head to Johnny Carlton’s Club, in the Hotel Carlton, Höheweg 94 ( 033/826-01-60; www.johnnys-interlaken.ch). Although the dance floor is comically small, the music is danceable. Because there are never enough banquettes and chairs for the crowd, everyone seems to mingle extra freely. Metro Bar, in the Hotel Metropole, Höheweg 37 ( 033/828-66-66), draws a crowd in their 30s and 40s who mingle happily together.

Access to virtually every disco in Interlaken costs 7F on Friday and Saturday nights, and is free other nights. Things begin happening a bit earlier than you might expect—many are rocking by 11pm.

A major nighttime venue is the Casino Kursaal, Höheweg at Strandbadstrasse ( 033/827-61-00; www.casino-kursaal.ch). The on-site restaurant serves a fixed-price menu for 50F. Admission to the casino is another 5F. Hours are Sunday to Thursday noon to 2am, Friday and Saturday noon to 3am.

Interlaken’s most intense doses of folk schmaltz take the form of the tellfreilichtspiele, a secular version of a Teutonic morality play that’s presented in an open-air amphitheater in Interlaken’s suburb of Matten, a village en route to Grindelwald, reached after a brisk 15-minute walk from Interlaken’s center. A sweeping cast of as many as 250 presents Schiller’s pageant play William Tell, complete with galloping horses, flaming torches, flower-draped cows, apple-shooting scenes, and an all-German text delivered in the lilting diphthongs of the Schwyzerdeutsch accent. Tickets for the 2 1/2-hour show cost 35F to 58F, and are available from Tellbüro, Bahnhofstrasse 5 ( 033/822-37-22). The play is presented at 8pm every Thursday and Saturday between mid-June and early September. Bring a jacket or sweater, or rent one of the blankets from an on-site kiosk, as the alpine chill seems to enhance this epic tale of the struggle for Swiss independence from the tyranny of neighboring Austria.

Easy Excursions from Interlaken

By making the mountains of the Bernese Oberland accessible by train and cable car, Swiss engineers paved the way for visitors to this popular region to explore some of the most scenic and enjoyable spots in the country. There are many organized excursions, as adventurous as they are varied, and Interlaken is the most sensible starting point.

Jungfraujoch ★★★

A train trip to Jungfraujoch, at 3,400m (11,152 ft.), is often considered a trip highlight by visitors. For more than a century, it’s been the highest railway station in Europe. It’s also one of the most expensive: A round-trip tour costs 198F in first class, 186F in second class. However, families can fill out a Junior Card form, available at the railway station, which allows children 16 and under to ride free. Departures are usually daily at 8am from the east station in Interlaken; expect to return around 4pm. To check times, contact the sales office of Jungfrau Railways, Höheweg 37 ( 033/828-72-33; www.jungfraubahn.ch).

With luck, you’ll get good weather for your day trip; you should always consult the tourist office in Interlaken before boarding the train. The trip is comfortable, safe, and packed with adventure. First you’ll take the Wengernalp railway (WAB), a rack railway that opened in 1893. It will take you to Lauterbrunnen, at 784m (2,572 ft.), where you’ll change to a train heading for the Kleine Scheidegg station, at 2,029m (6,655 ft.)—welcome to avalanche country. The view includes the Mönch, the Eiger Wall, and the Jungfrau, which was named for the white-clad Augustinian nuns of medieval Interlaken (jungfrau means “virgin”).

At Kleine Scheidegg you’ll change to the highest rack railway in Europe, the Jungfraubahn. You have 9.6km (6 miles) to go; 6.4km (4 miles) of that will be spent in a tunnel carved into the mountain. You’ll stop briefly twice, at Eigerwand and Eismeer, where you can view the sea of ice from windows in the rock (the Eigerwand is at 2,830m/9,282 ft., and Eismeer is at 3,110m/10,201 ft.). When the train emerges from the tunnel, the daylight is momentarily blinding, so bring a pair of sunglasses to help your eyes adjust. Notorious among mountain climbers, the Eigernordwand (“north wall”) is incredibly steep.

Once at the Jungfraujoch terminus, you may feel a little giddy until you get used to the air. There’s much to do in this eerie world high up Jungfrau, but take it slow—your body’s metabolism will be affected and you may tire quickly.

Behind the post office is an elevator that will take you to a corridor leading to the famed Eispalast (Ice Palace) ★. Here you’ll be walking inside “eternal ice” in caverns hewn out of the slowest-moving section of the glacier. Cut 19m (62 ft.) below the glacier’s surface, these caverns were begun in 1934 by a Swiss guide and subsequently enlarged and embellished with additional sculptures by others. Everything in here is made of ice, including full-size replicas of vintage automobiles and local chaplains.

After returning to the station, you can take the Sphinx Tunnel to another elevator. This one takes you up 107m (351 ft.) to an observation deck called the Sphinx Terraces, overlooking the saddle between the Mönch and Jungfrau peaks. You can also see the Aletsch Glacier, a 23km (14-mile) river of ice—the longest in Europe. The snow melts into Lake Geneva and eventually flows into the Mediterranean.

Astronomical and meteorological research is conducted at a scientific station here. There’s a research exhibition that explains weather conditions, and a video presentation.

There are five restaurants from which to choose. The traditional choice is Jungfraujoch Glacier Restaurant. Top of Europe, opened in 1987, offers several different dining possibilities, and there’s also a self-service cafeteria. As a final adventure, you can take a sleigh ride, pulled by stout huskies.

On your way back down the mountain, you’ll return to Kleine Scheidegg station, but you can vary your route by going through Grindelwald, which offers panoramic views of the treacherous north wall.

Harder Kulm ★★

For a somewhat less ambitious excursion, set out from Interlaken East for this belvedere at 1,301m (4,267 ft.). The funicular ride takes 15 minutes and costs 27F round-trip for adults and 14F for children. From the lookout, you can see Interlaken, the Bernese Alps, and the two lakes, Thun and Brienz, that give Interlaken its name. Departures are every half-hour daily from May until the end of October. The first funicular departs at 9:10am, the last one back leaving at 6pm (6:30pm Apr–Oct). There’s a mountain restaurant at Harder Kulm, with observation terraces. For details, call 033/828-72-03.

Wilderswil/Schynige Platte ★★★

Less than 3km (2 miles) south of Interlaken, Wilderswil stands on a plain between lakes Brienz and Thun, at the foot of the Jungfrau Mountains. It’s both a summer resort and a winter resort, as well as the starting point for many excursions. The resort has 16 levels of accommodations, ranging from hotels to guesthouses, but most tourists stay in Interlaken and visit Wilderswil to take the excursion to Schynige Platte ( 033/822-34-31; www.schynigeplatte.ch). To get to Wilderswil, take the 6-minute train ride from the Interlaken East station. Switch to a cogwheel train for the harrowing, steep ascent to the Schynige Platte, at 1,936m (6,350 ft.). The rack railway, which opened in 1893, climbs the 7km (4 1/2-mile) slope in less than an hour, with gradients of up to 25%. There are more than a dozen trips a day in season, June to October, costing 69F round-trip.

There’s an alpine garden in Schynige Platte, containing some 600 species of plants; admission is 5F. From a nearby belvedere, visitors command a splendid view of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. The resort’s restaurant serves good food and drink.

Lake Thun ★★

Occupying an ancient terminal basin of a glacier, Lake Thun (Thunersee) was once connected to Lake Brienz (Brienzersee). The Lutschine River deposited so much sediment at Interlaken that the one body of water eventually became two. Lake Thun, once beloved by Brahms, is 21km (13 miles) long and 3km (2 miles) wide. The lake is 27km (17 miles) south of Bern and there is frequent rail service, which continues east to Interlaken.

Because of its mild climate, Lake Thun is known as the Riviera of the Bernese Oberland. Popular lake sports include water-skiing, yachting, and windsurfing. Onshore are excellent swimming pools (indoor and outdoor), windsurfing schools, golf courses, tennis courts, horse stables, and caves.

The lake’s major resort is Thun, a small city that was founded on an island where the Aare River flows out of Lake Thun. The city has since expanded onto the banks of the river to become the political and administrative center of the Bernese Oberland and the gateway to the Bernese mountains.

The most interesting part of the city is on the Aare’s right bank. The busy main street, Hauptgasse, has walkways built above the arcaded shops. There’s a 17th-century town hall on Rathausplatz, where you can climb a covered staircase up to the formidable Schloss Thun (Castle Kyburg) ★. The castle is now a historical museum ( 033/223-20-01; www.schlossthun.ch). It was built by the dukes of Zähringen at the end of the 12th century. Later it was the home of the counts of Kyburg, as well as the Bernese bailiffs. The massive residential tower has a large Knights’ Hall, which contains a Gobelin tapestry from the time of Charles the Bold and a fine collection of halberds and other weapons. Other rooms have important archaeological finds, an exhibit of military uniforms, period furniture, and toys. From the turrets, there’s a panoramic view of the surrounding area. The museum is open daily April to October from 10am to 5pm and November to March from 1 to 4pm. Admission is 8F for adults, 2F for children.

Lake Tours

A fleet of ships with a total capacity of 6,720 passengers operates on Lake Thun daily from April to October. A 4-hour voyage from Interlaken West to Beatenbucht, Spiez, Overhofen, Thun, and back costs 109F in first class, 66F in second class.

Boat trips on Lake Brienz are also available daily from June to September. There are five motor ships and one steamship, with a total capacity of 3,160 passengers. A 3-hour voyage from Interlaken East to Iseltwald, Giessbach, Brienz, and back costs 78F in first class and 46F in second class. For details, call B.L.S. ( 058/327-48-11; www.bls.ch).

Meiringen ★

This resort lies about 13km (8 miles) from Brienz and can be easily visited on a day trip from Interlaken. Several trains headed to Meiringen stop at Interlaken’s two railway stations every day. Travel time each way is about 50 minutes.

Strategically centered between three alpine passes (the Grimsel, the Brunig, and the Susten), this old town is a suitable base from which you can explore the eastern sections of the Bernese Oberland and the wild upper reaches of the Aare River. Classified as the major town in the Haslital district and set above the waters of Lake Brienz, Meiringen is famous throughout Europe for its meringue, a dessert that was supposedly invented here.

Rich in scenery and wildlife, the district attracts mountaineers, rock climbers, and hikers. Surrounding the town, you’ll find around 300km (186 miles) of marked hiking trails through unspoiled natural settings, with a complicated network of lifts to reach panoramic vantage points. Destinations for excursions include the Aare Gorge, the Rosenlaui Glacier, and the Reichenbach Falls. The district also has a folklore museum, a crystal grotto, an antique water mill, and a pathway across a glacier. Almost everyone visits the parish church in the upper part of the village. Its crypt was built during the 11th century.

From Meiringen, you can set out for Grindelwald, a distance of some 27km (17 miles) and one of the great walks in the Jungfrau region. Along the way you can absorb the stunning panoramas of the massif, the Eiger, with its massive gray rock walls. Soaring summits and white glaciers form your backdrop as you walk along. If you get tired along the way, there are bus stops where you can board public transportation to take you into Grindelwald. This is also an option should the weather turn bad. Otherwise, depending on your stamina, the walk takes from 6 1/2 to 9 hours.

If you’re in the mood for meringue, you can buy one or two at a local bakery. According to legend, the dessert was created when Napoleon visited the town and the local chef in charge of the welcoming banquet had a lot of leftover egg whites. Inspired, he created the puffy mounds and served them in a saucer brimming with sweet mountain cream, much to the general’s delight.

Aare Gorge ★★ is full of recesses, grottoes, precipices, and arches—all fashioned by the Aare’s waters over centuries. The cleft is 1,400m (4,500 ft.) long and 195m (640 ft.) deep, carved in the Kirchet, a craggy barrier left over from the ice age. In some places the towering rock walls of the gorge are so close together that only a few rays of sunshine can penetrate, just before noon. A unique natural wonder of the Swiss Alps, the gorge can be reached only by car, via the Grimsel-Susten road along the Kirchet. Admission is 9F for adults and 5F for children. The gorge is open May to October daily from 10am to 5pm; in July and August its extended hours are from 8am to 6pm.

If you’re a fan of Sherlock Holmes, you’ll enjoy an excursion to Reichenbach Falls ★, where the rivers of the Rosenlaui Valley meet. The impressive beauty of the falls has lured many visitors, beginning with the British in the 19th century. One visitor, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, creator of Holmes, was so impressed with the place that he used it as the setting for the scene in The Final Problem in which the villain, Professor Moriarty, struggles with the detective and tosses Holmes into the falls. You can see a Sherlock Holmes commemorative plaque near the upper station of the funicular. The falls can be visited from mid-May to mid-September. The funicular takes you to a point at 834m (2,735 ft.) near terraces overlooking the water. Handrails provide safety. Departures are every 10 minutes daily from 9 to 11:45am and 1:15 to 5:45pm. The cost of admission is 10F for adults and 8F for children. The price includes the cost of the funicular. It’s a 10-minute walk from Meiringen to the base of the funicular. If you’re driving from Meiringen, take the road to Grimsel and turn right toward Reichenbach Falls and Mervenklinik. For more information, call 033/972-90-10.

After admiring the cascade, you can hike through the river valley. The footpath through the Rosenlaui Valley is marked. After 90 minutes you’ll arrive at the entrance to Rosenlaui Gorge. The surfaces of the sheer rock faces echo the sounds of the many small waterfalls within. The glacier gorges ★, which have been hollowed out by the waters from the melting ice of the Rosenlaui Glacier, are a spectacular sight. You can walk from one end of this gorge to the other in about 30 minutes. A small hotel and seasonal restaurant are near the entrance. Most visitors turn around at the uppermost reaches of the gorge and make the 2-hour trek back to Reichenbach Falls to pick up the funicular back to Meiringen. The gorge can be visited May to October daily from 9am to 5pm. The cost is 7F for adults and 3.50F for children.

The murder of Sherlock Holmes

In 1891, the English writer Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, creator of the most famous detective in all fiction, Sherlock Holmes, acted too hastily in killing off his fictional hero. In a story entitled The Final Problem, after a battle with Professor Moriarty (called “the Napoleon of Crime”), Holmes and the fiendish villain were sent plunging to their deaths into Reichenbach Falls at Meiringen.

Although the Sherlock Holmes stories had proven successful, Conan Doyle apparently decided that he’d had enough of Sherlock’s sleuthing. His rather outraged public disagreed, so Conan Doyle was forced to virtually call back Sherlock Holmes from the dead, and the detective went on to solve at least 60 more crimes.

The wonder of the falls is reason enough to visit the site, but Holmes devotees wanted more, so in May 1991 the town leaders opened a Sherlock Holmes Museum, Bahnhofstrasse 26 ( 033/971-41-41), in an old Anglican church at Meiringen. There, you can visit a recreation of Sherlock Holmes’s sitting room at 221B Baker St. in London, with exhibits donated by fans from around the world. The museum is open May through September Tuesday to Sunday from 1:30 to 6pm, and October to April Wednesday and Sunday 4:30 to 6pm. Admission costs 4F for adults and 3F for children.

Mürren ★★

11km (7 miles) S of Lauterbrunnen; 30km (19 miles) S of Interlaken

This village has a stunning location, high above the Lauterbrunnen Valley. At 1,624m (5,327 ft.), Mürren is the highest year-round inhabited village in the Bernese Oberland. It’s an exciting excursion from Interlaken in the summer and a major ski resort in the winter. Downhill and slalom skiing were developed here in the 1920s. Mürren is also the birthplace of modern alpine racing.

Essentials

Getting There Take the mountain railway from the Interlaken East rail station to Lauterbrunnen (trip time: 1 hr.). Once at Lauterbrunnen, you can take a cogwheel train the rest of the way to Mürren. Departures from Lauterbrunnen are every half-hour from 6:10am to 7:30pm daily, costing 15F one-way.

A regular postal-bus service goes once an hour from Lauterbrunnen to Stechelberg; the rest of the way you must travel by cable car, costing 9F round-trip. Departures are every half-hour, and the trip takes about 10 minutes.

Mürren is not accessible to traffic. You can drive as far as Stechelberg, the last town on the Lauterbrunnen Valley road, and switch to the cable car discussed above.

Visitor Information The Mürren Tourist Information Bureau is at the Sportzentrum ( 033/856-86-86). There is no street plan—follow the clearly indicated signs to the various hotels and commercial establishments. The office is open Monday to Friday 9am to noon and 2 to 7pm, Saturday and Sunday 2 to 6:30pm.

On the trail of James Bond

The Schilthorn, with its aerial cableway and steep snow slopes, was the setting for the most exciting scenes in the film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, one of the classic Bond thrillers. The incomparable location, the dramatic view of ice-covered peaks, and the fact that the imposing summit house is accessible only by aerial cableway convinced United Artists to select the Schilthorn as the film site.

Between October 1968 and April 1969, an army of volunteers transformed the Schilthorn into the film’s “Piz Gloria.” A landing pad for helicopters was constructed that was also used as a curling rink in the film and now serves as a sun terrace. The film was the breakthrough that made Schilthorn the world-famous attraction it has become. Today the imitation-blood trails have long been washed away, the fake bodies carted off, and the revolving restaurant never really exploded. A James Bond video in the Touristorama reminds visitors of this spectacular scenic film adventure.

Outdoor Fun

In Town

There are miles of downhill runs in the area. Mürren, one of the finest ski resorts of Switzerland, provides access to the Schilthorn at 2,923m (9,587 ft.), the start of a 15km (9-mile) run that drops all the way to Lauterbrunnen. It also has one funicular railway, seven lifts, and two cable cars. A 1-day ski pass that includes the area around Schilthorn costs 62F, while a 6-day pass goes for 266F. For cross-country skiers, there’s a 12km (7 1/2-mile) track in the Lauterbrunnen Valley, 10 minutes by railway from Mürren.

The alpine Sportzentrum (Sports Center), in the middle of Mürren ( 033/856-86-86), is one of the finest in the Bernese Oberland. The modern building has an indoor pool, a lounge, a snack bar, an outdoor skating rink, a tourist information office, and a children’s playroom and library. There are facilities for squash, tennis, and curling. Hotel owners subsidize the operation, tacking the charges onto your hotel bill. Supplemental charges include 35F per 45 minutes for tennis, 28F per 45-minute session for squash, 20F per 2 hours use of the sauna. The facility is usually open Monday to Friday from 9am to noon and 1 to 6:45pm, and from Christmas to April and July to mid-September also on Saturday from 1 to 6:30pm and Sunday from 1 to 5:30pm; but check locally as these times can vary.

Nearby

The famous Mürren-Allmendhubel Cableway leaves from the northwestern edge of Mürren. From the destination, there’s a panoramic view of the Lauterbrunnen Valley as far as Wengen and Kleine Scheidegg. Between mid-June and late August, the alpine meadows are covered with wildflowers. A walk in this hilly region could easily be a highlight of your trip to Switzerland. The cable car operates daily throughout the year from 9am to 5pm. However, there are annual closings for maintenance in May and November. It costs 12F per person round-trip. For information, call 033/855-20-42.

The most popular excursion from Mürren is a cable-car ride to the Schilthorn ★★★, famous for its 360-degree view. The panorama extends from the Jura to the Black Forest, including the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau. The Schilthorn is also called “Piz Gloria” after the James Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service (the most dramatic scenes in the movie were filmed here). Today, Piz Gloria is the name of the revolving restaurant on-site. The summit is the start of the world’s longest downhill ski race. The cable car to Schilthorn leaves every 30 minutes, and the round-trip costs 95F. The journey to the top takes 20 minutes. For details, call 033/856-21-41.

Shopping

Commercial real estate in Mürren is expensive, particularly since the terrain is so inhospitable and supplies have to be hauled up by cable car or helicopter. Consequently, many of the resort’s store owners make it a point to cram as much as possible into their shops, hoping to catch impulse buyers during shopping sprees. Therefore, the rule is, don’t make any assumptions that shops here won’t have what you want, as they’re deceptively all-encompassing. Two of the resort’s most interesting shops combine displays loaded with both sporting equipment and handicrafts. These are Sporthaus Abegglen ( 033/855-12-45) and Sporthaus Stäger ( 033/855-23-55).

Where to Stay

Expensive

Hotel Bellevue This is one of the earliest hotels to be built in Mürren, dating from the first part of the 20th century when it attracted mainly British visitors. On the outside, its buttercup yellow-and-brown facade is not particularly distinctive, but once inside, its much-renovated decor is more welcoming, as it’s in the rustic alpine “farmer’s style.” The owners pride themselves on having one of the best views of the major peaks in the area, including Jungfrau. The bedrooms are warmly decorated, well maintained, and comfortable. The on-site restaurant focuses on game dishes, including venison and quail, often trapped by or shot by the owners themselves.

Obere Dorfstrasse, CH-3825 Mürren. www.muerren.ch/bellevue. 033/855-14-01. Fax 033/855-14-90. 19 units. 170F–230F double; 225F triple; 350F junior suite. Breakfast and dinner 40F extra. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: Hair dryer.

Hotel Eiger ★ Founded in the 1920s, this chalet is the longest-established hotel in Mürren. The public rooms are warmly decorated, and many of the windows have panoramic views. The bedrooms are small, cozy, and comfortable and decorated in a typical alpine style. The hotel, managed by the Stähli family, lies across the street from the terminus of the cable car from Lauterbrunnen.

Bahnhofplatz, CH-3825 Mürren. www.hoteleiger.com. 033/856-54-54. Fax 033/856-54-56. 44 units. 220F–335F double; 400F–540F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Easter to early June and mid-Sept to mid-Dec. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; Jacuzzi; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate

Hotel Alpenruh Set in the most congested yet charming section of the village, the Alpenruh possesses an interior that’s plusher than its chalet-style facade implies. The old building was upgraded in 1986 to government-rated three-star status without sacrificing any of its charm. The small rooms have pine paneling and a mix of antique and contemporary furniture, and most of them open onto a view of the Jungfrau. The hotel is owned by the company that operates the aerial cable cars to the Schilthorn’s Piz Gloria, and you can get a voucher to have breakfast there.

CH-3825 Mürren. www.alpenruh-muerren.ch. 033/856-88-00. Fax 033/856-88-88. 26 units. 170F–280F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Half board 40F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; sauna; Wi-Fi (free, in lobby). In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Hotel Jungfrau/Haus Mönch This government-rated three-star, 19th-century building, located a 3-minute walk from the Mürrenbahn, lies under gables behind green shutters, stucco, and brick walls. A comfortable annex was constructed in 1965; both buildings have an inviting, modern decor with open fireplaces, clusters of armchairs, and a shared dining room. The small bedrooms are bright and appealing. Twenty of the rooms are in the Hotel Jungfrau and 29 are across the street in the lodge. Units are equal in comfort.

Im Gruebi, CH-3825 Mürren. www.hoteljungfrau.ch. 033/856-64-64. Fax 033/856-64-65. 49 units. 160F–250F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed mid-Apr to late May and mid-Oct to mid-Dec. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi (free, in lobby). In room: TV.

Where to Eat

Eiger Stübli ★ SWISS The best food in Mürren is served here in a festive ambience. The Eiger Stübli’s cuisine includes fondue and an international range of hearty and well-prepared specialties well suited to the alpine heights and chill. Main dishes include a delectable roast lamb shoulder with lentils, a whole sole from the grill, beef Stroganoff, a savory cheese fondue, a perfectly prepared roast breast of duck with orange sauce, or poached filet of trout. All main dishes may be ordered with rösti (Swiss hash browns). Dessert specialties include vodka sherbet and iced soufflé Grand Marnier.

In the Hotel Eiger. 033/856-54-54. Reservations recommended. Main courses 25F–53F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2pm and 6–9pm. Closed Easter to mid-June and mid-Sept to mid-Dec.

Hotel Alpenruh ★ FRENCH This small hotel contains one of the finest restaurants in Mürren, offering a large and varied menu. The place is always a reliable bet for lunch or dinner, even during the rainy months of April and May and again in November when many of the other restaurants and hotels in Mürren are closed. Both its dining rooms have attractive alpine themes and wide terraces with panoramic views of the surrounding mountains. Appetizers include dried tomato strips with sage butter and tortellini with ricotta. You can dive enthusiastically into such dishes as veal steak with a Dijon mustard sauce or lamb cutlet with a garlic-herb sauce. The steaks are delectable. The fish courses may include sole Colbert and anglerfish medallions with jumbo shrimp. For dessert, try the fresh pineapple with caramel mousse or a gratiné of kiwi and oranges.

In the Hotel Alpenruh. 033/856-88-00. Reservations recommended in winter. Main courses 20F–45F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7am–11pm.

Restaurant im Gruebi SWISS This popular restaurant offers a sunny outdoor terrace on the lobby level of the Hotel Jungfrau. The large hexagonal dining room has views of the mountains and ski slopes. You get authentic Swiss flavor and first-rate ingredients here. Some specialties are prepared for two, including chateaubriand, New York steak, rack of lamb flavored with herbs, and veal filets with fruit in a cognac sauce. It also offers the classic fondue bourguignon. Ten different types of rösti are served, including the classic Jungfrau version—ham, tomatoes, and raclette cheese. The chef also features what he calls “week-hits,” a different specialty every night. One night may feature a salad and an all-you-can-eat array of meat fondues. Another night may be pasta night, grill night, and so on. There’s even a cheese night, featuring raclette, fondues, and various types of Swiss cheese preparations.

In the Hotel Jungfrau im Gruebi. 033/856-64-64. Reservations recommended in midwinter. Main courses 25F–43F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7:30am–9:15pm. Closed mid-Apr to mid-June and mid-Oct to mid-Dec.

Restaurant Piz Gloria ★ SWISS Piz Gloria is the most dramatically located restaurant in Europe, with a setting so inhospitable and an architecture so futuristic that it was used as the setting for the James Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Designed like a big-windowed flying saucer and anchored solidly to the alpine bedrock, it was built at staggering expense in one of Switzerland’s highest locations, the Schilthorn. Closed during blizzards, the restaurant has a terrace where newcomers should beware of becoming seriously sunburned by the rays of the high-altitude, unfiltered sunlight. You’ll dine inside at long wooden tables, each with a wraparound view. The menu includes hearty dishes suited to the climate. There are both weekly and daily specials, ranging from chicken cordon bleu to filet of codfish with rice and vegetables. One spaghetti dish is named for James Bond; it’s made with peppers, mushrooms, bacon, and Italian veal sausages. Another dish often served is puff pastry filled with veal and served with a white sauce. The 007 dessert is a bowl of five different scoops of ice cream topped with fruit.

Schilthorn. 033/856-21-40. Main courses 20F–42F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily from the 1st cable car’s arrival until the last cable car’s afternoon departure. The first departure from Stechelberg is at 7:25am in summer and at 7:55am in winter. The cable car’s last departure from Schilthorn’s summit is at 6pm in summer and 5pm in winter. Closed mid-Nov to early Dec and 1 week after Easter. The only access is via the Schilthorn cable car, which departs from town of Stechelberg and stops at 3 way stations, the most prominent of which is Mürren. Round-trip fare from Stechelberg 95F, round-trip fare from Mürren 74F.

Mürren After Dark

Every hotel in Mürren contains a bar offering maximum amounts of alpine coziness. One that deserves special mention, however, is the Bliemlichäller, a sudsy, popular, and sometimes raucous disco in the Hotel Blumental ( 033/855-18-26). More correctly perceived as a pub for après-skiing or après–hill climbing is the winter-only Tächibar in the Hotel Eiger ( 033/856-54-54).

Wengen ★★★

26km (16 miles) S of Interlaken; 5km (3 miles) NE of Mürren

The Mönch, Jungfrau, and Eiger loom above this sunny resort town built on a sheltered terrace high above the Lauterbrunnen Valley, at about 1,250m (4,100 ft.). Wengen (pronounced Ven-ghen) is one of the more chic and better-equipped ski and mountain resorts in the Bernese Oberland. It has 30 hotels in all price categories, as well as 500 apartments and chalets for rent.

In the 1830s, the International Lauberhorn Ski Race was established here. At that time Wengen was a farm community. The British were the first to popularize the resort, after World War I. Today, parts of the area retain their rural charm. The main street, however, is filled with cafes, shops, and restaurants welcoming tourists. Robert Redford is a frequent visitor. No cars are allowed in Wengen, but the streets are still bustling with service vehicles and electric luggage carts.

Essentials

Getting There Take the train from Interlaken West to Wengen with a change of train at Lauterbrunne. Departures are every 45 minutes from 6:30am to 11pm, costing 16F one-way. After a stopover at Wengen, the train goes on to Kleine Scheidegg and Jungfraujoch. For rail information, call 0900/300-300.

If you’re driving, head south from Interlaken toward Wilderswil, following the minor signposted road to Lauterbrunnen, where you’ll find garages and open-air spaces for parking. You cannot drive to Wengen—you must take the train. You can park in one of the garages at Lauterbrunnen for 12F to 18F a day. Trains from Lauterbrunnen to Wengen leave at the rate of one every 15 minutes from 6am to midnight, costing 7F one-way.

Visitor Information There are no street names; hotels, restaurants, and other major establishments are signposted with directional signs, which make them relatively easy to find. The Wengen Tourist Information Office ( 033/856-85-85; www.mywengen.ch) is in the center of the resort. It’s open mid-June to mid-September and mid-December to Easter only, Monday to Saturday 9am to noon and 2 to 5pm.

Exploring the Area

The ski area around Wengen is highly developed, with ski trails carved into the sides of Männlichen, Kleine Scheidegg, Lauberhorn, and Eigergletscher. A triumph of alpine engineering, the town and its region contain three mountain railways, two aerial cableways, one gondola, 31 lifts, and 250km (155 miles) of downhill runs. You’ll also find a branch of the Swiss Ski School, more than 11km (7 miles) of trails for cross-country skiing, a curling hall, an indoor swimming pool, and a day nursery.

During the summer the district attracts hill climbers from all over Europe. The hiking trails are well maintained and carefully marked, with dozens of unusual detours to hidden lakes and panoramas. Wengen also has five public tennis courts available through the tourist office (see above), a natural skating rink (natureisbahn), and a partially sheltered indoor rink (kunsteisbahn). The hours these rinks keep are subject to change, so check with the tourist office for details.

Nearby Attractions

From Wengen and Grindelwald, a number of excursions take you up and down the Lauterbrunnen Valley. You can visit Trümmelbach Falls ★★★, which plunges in five powerful cascades through a gorge. You can take an elevator built through the rock to a series of galleries (bring a raincoat). The last stop is at a wall where the upper fall descends. The falls can be visited from the end of May through June and in September and October daily from 9am to 5pm; in July and August daily from 8:30am to 6pm. They’re closed during other months. Admission is 11F for adults, 4F for children 6 to 16, and free for children 5 and under. It takes about 45 minutes to reach the falls on foot. For information, call 033/855-32-32. A postal bus from Lauterbrunnen (only 15 min. from Wengen by train) stops at Trümmelbach Falls. It costs only 5F for adults, 4F for children, and departs once an hour from Lauterbrunnen. For information, call 033/828-70-38.

You might also want to visit the base of the Staubbach Waterfall ★★, which plunges nearly 300m (984 ft.) in a sheer drop over a rock wall in the valley above Lauterbrunnen. Lord Byron compared this waterfall to the “tail of the pale horse ridden by Death in the Apocalypse.” Staubbach can be reached from the resort village of Lauterbrunnen, which lies only 15 minutes from Wengen by train (see “Essentials,” above). From the center of Lauterbrunnen, follow the signposts along a walkway running along a creek and then be prepared for some steep stairs to reach the viewing point for the falls.

Shopping

Despite its proximity to the wide-open spaces of the big-sky Alps, don’t be disappointed by the distinctly nonalpine-looking shops here. The well-recommended Swiss Made Shop, Dorfstrasse ( 033/855-26-27), offers fragile and exquisite cutlery, porcelain, and flatware. Two of the town’s most successful shops for ski and other sports equipment are Alpia Sport, Dorfstrasse ( 033/855-26-26), and Central Sport, Chalet Lauberhorn ( 033/855-23-23). If you’re interested in capturing the scenery that unfolds on all sides, head for Foto-Haus, Dorfstrasse ( 033/855-11-54). In addition to film and cameras, it also sells one of the town’s widest rosters of handcrafted souvenirs to commemorate your stay in the Oberland.

Where to Stay

All the hotels in Wengen are mobbed most of the winter, so make reservations well in advance if you plan to arrive during ski season.

Caprice ★★★ Rising above the Lauterbrunnen Valley, this Swiss alpine lodge is perhaps the most tranquil at the resort. From the balconies of the hotel, panoramic vistas open onto alpine scenery dominated by the Jungfrau along with the Monch and Eiger. Many guests start their day on one of these balconies, taking in the bracing alpine air. Bedrooms are attractively furnished with style and taste, and each one is spacious with large picture windows framing that view. The most luxurious of the units here can be quite expensive, especially in the peak winter season. On site is a gourmet French restaurant, with both a daily set menu and an a la carte. The chef usually offers a five-course “surprise menu” as well. The hotel is also a great stopping off point for après-ski drinks and snacks.

CH-3823 Wengen. www.caprice-wengen.ch. 033/856-06-06. 18 units. 200F-680F double. AE, MC, V. Closed Apr 9–May 28 and Sept 25–Dec 22. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; room service. In room: TV/DVD, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Alpenrose ★★ A longtime favorite of ours, this hotel is invitingly traditional, with a family atmosphere. Most of the cozy, well-furnished bedrooms have views over the Lauterbrunnen Valley, lots of light, and plenty of pine paneling. Accommodations facing south are more desirable because they get more sunlight and so they’re slightly higher in price. The hotel is efficiently run and filled with cozy public rooms and a large formal dining area where, if you’ve been gathering wildflowers that day, you’ll probably find them in a vase at your supper. In ski season, fans of this hotel, all sports lovers, fill up the rooms. Staying on-site for your meals is hardly a hardship, as the food is well prepared with fresh ingredients whenever possible. Old favorites pepper the menu, including fondue bourguignon, trout with almonds, and terrine maison.

CH-3823 Wengen. www.alpenrose.ch. 033/855-32-16. Fax 033/855-15-18. 50 units. Winter 272F–428F double; summer 238F–368F double. Rates include half board. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi (free, in lobby). In room: TV.

Hotel Regina ★★ Wengen’s most time-honored hotel lies in an embellished Victorian elephant of a building with balconies and lots of charm. Guido Meyer has been known to arrange unusual concerts for his guests (once, during our stay, a group of Oklahoma high school students gave a concert on the front lawn). One of the public rooms has a baronial carved-stone fireplace. The midsize to spacious bedrooms are comfortable and cozy, each well furnished and immaculately maintained. Maintenance is high, as is the level of service.

CH-3823 Wengen. www.hotelregina.ch. 033/856-58-58. Fax 033/856-58-50. 90 units. Winter 300F–460F double, 400F–500F junior suite; summer 260F–360F double, 340F–400F junior suite. Rates include half board. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed mid-Oct to mid-Dec. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; bikes; exercise room; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (5F per hr.).

Hotel Silberhorn ★ Famous for the cluster of restaurants and nightclubs located on its first two floors, this first-class family-owned hotel also offers comfortable modern rooms filled with pine and chintz, many with wooden balconies, and a few with kitchenettes. The simple Victorian building has been modernly equipped. The most spacious, most comfortable, and most attractive rooms are in the older wing. The restaurants located here shine in midwinter. Apartment rates include breakfast, and a minimum of 7 nights is required in winter.

CH-3823 Wengen. www.silberhorn.ch. 033/856-69-69. Fax 033/856-69-70. 71 units. Winter 246F–580F double, 460F–580F apt for 3, 550F–750F apt for 4; summer 204F–420F double, 400F–450F apt for 3, 450F–490F apt for 4. Children 5 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar (in winter only); babysitting; bikes; room service; spa. In room: TV, hair dryer, kitchenette (in some), minibar.

Sunstar Hotel Originally constructed in 1910 as the Metropole Hotel, the present incarnation has been around since the mid-1970s. Today it’s a government-rated four-star hotel in the heart of the village, with wraparound balconies and a modern design inspired by traditional alpine architecture. The Kirche family are the helpful hosts. The nice-size rooms are well furnished and comfortable, many opening onto balconies with panoramic views of the Alps. Guests can relax in the spacious lounge with a fireplace or retreat to the hotel’s cozy bar.

CH-3823 Wengen. www.sunstar.ch. 033/856-52-00. Fax 033/856-53-00. 76 units. Winter 250F–450F double, from 370F junior suite; summer 298F–326F double, from 354F junior suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Easter to end of May and mid-Oct to mid-Dec. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (25F per 24 hr.).

Zum Bären Looking for comfortable lodging and good views near the city center of Wengen? This cozy chalet inn, popular with families and backpackers alike, fits the bill. There are no fancy amenities here, but the accommodations are clean, and most look out over the Swiss mountains. A buffet-style breakfast is served before guests depart to ski or take in the sights.

CH-3823 Wengen. www.baeren-wengen.ch. 033/855-14-19. Fax 033/855-15-25. 14 units. Winter 90F–120F per person double; summer 75F–95F per person double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed mid-Oct to mid-Dec. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: No phone, Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat

Hotel Bernerhof Restaurant SWISS/ITALIAN The Schweizers run this old family favorite. There’s an alpine-themed bar, which fills up in the early evening with beer drinkers returning from the slopes. Hearty alpine food, including raclette and fondue, is served in the dining room. Several savory Italian dishes are also featured. Favorite dishes include grilled trout with horseradish sauce, Burgundy-style snails, and a delectable fondue bourguignon.

CH-3823 Wengen. 033/855-27-21. Reservations recommended (and sometimes required). Main courses 19F–47F. MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2pm and 6–9:30pm.

Hotel Hirschen Restaurant SWISS This quiet retreat at the foot of the slopes has true alpine flavor. The rear dining room is decorated with hunting trophies, pewter, and wine racks. Johannes Abplanalp and his family offer a dinner special called Galgenspiess—filet of beef, veal, and pork flambéed at your table. Other dishes include filet of breaded pork, rump steak Café de Paris, and fondue Bacchus (in white-wine sauce), bourguignon (hot oil), or chinoise (hot bouillon). A hearty lunch is Winzerrösti, consisting of country ham, cheese, and a fried egg with homemade rösti.

CH-3823 Wengen. 033/855-15-44. Reservations recommended. Main courses 14F–47F. MC, V. Wed–Mon 6:30–11pm. Closed May–Oct.

Wengen After Dark

More reliable and prevalent than fly-by-night discos in Wengen are the resort’s hard-drinking bars and sudsy pubs. The two wildest are the Tanne Bar, Hauptstrasse ( 033/855-12-44), across the street from the Sunstar Hotel; and Sina’s Pub, Dorfstrasse ( 033/855-31-72), where karaoke mics and monitors are pulled out from storage whenever things begin to look dull.

Grindelwald ★★★

22km (14 miles) S of Interlaken; 192km (120 miles) SW of Zurich

The “glacier village” of Grindelwald, at 1,033m (3,388 ft.), is set against a backdrop of the Wetterhorn and the towering north face of the Eiger. It’s both a winter and a summer resort.

Unlike Wengen and Mürren, it’s the only major resort in the Jungfrau region that can be reached by car. Because of its accessibility, Grindelwald is often crowded with visitors, many of whom come just for the day.

Grindelwald is surrounded by folkloric hamlets, swift streams, and as much alpine beauty as you’re likely to find anywhere in Switzerland. Although at first the hiking options and cable-car networks might seem baffling, the tourist office will provide maps of the local peaks and valleys and help clear up any confusion.

Essentials

Getting There The Bernese Oberland Railway (BOB) leaves from the Interlaken East station. The trip takes 35 minutes. Call 0900/300-300 for information.

If you’re driving, take the Wilderswil road south from Interlaken and follow the signs all the way to Grindelwald.

Visitor Information The resort doesn’t use street names or numbers; instead of street names, hotel direction signs are used to locate places. If you’re booked into a hotel or tourist home in Grindelwald, request a pass at your hotel that will entitle you to many discounts, especially on mountain rides.

The tourist office is on Dorfstrasse 110 ( 033/854-12-12; www.grindelwald.ch). It’s open Monday to Friday 8am to noon and 1:30 to 6pm, and Saturday and Sunday 8am to noon and 1:30 to 5pm.

The Great Outdoors

For details about the tours below, including seasonal changes, consult the tourist office (see above).

Glacier Tours The town maintains a sheltered observation gallery, adjacent to the base of the Lower Grindelwald Glacier (Untere Gletscher), which offers a close look at the glacier’s ravine. The half-mile gallery stretches past the deeply striated rocks, which include formations of colored marble worn smooth by the glacier’s powers of erosion. The gallery is easy to reach on foot or by car. Round-trip bus service is available from Grindelwald for 19F, and a parking lot and restaurant are nearby.

Hiking & Mountain Climbing If you’ve come to Switzerland to see the Alps, Grindelwald and its surroundings offer dozens of challenging paths and mountain trails that are well marked and carefully maintained. Outdoor adventures range from an exhilarating ramble across the gentle incline of an alpine valley to a dangerous trek with ropes and pitons along the north face of Mount Eiger. The choice depends on your inclination and your skills. A map showing the region’s paths and trails is available at the town’s tourist office.

If you’re adventurous enough to be tempted by peaks 3,900m (12,792 ft.) high or higher, or if you’d like to learn the proper way to climb rocks and ice, contact the Bergsteigerzentrum ( 033/853-52-00; www.jungfrauregion.com/grindelw), which lies adjacent to the Sunstar Hotel in Grindelwald. The Bergsteigerzentrum can also provide information on a modest 1-day hiking tour suitable for anyone capable of hiking in boots for 2 or 3 hours. After a scenic mountain train ride from Grindelwald to Eigergletscher, you’ll be led by a local mountain guide to the Bergsteigerzentrum Grindelwald, a husky-breeding center. Then you’ll hike along the foot of the north face of Mount Eiger. Along the way, your guide will narrate the history of this famous wall, providing interesting stories. Back down in Alpiglen, you can rest and enjoy a lunch of toasted cheese sandwiches. The train will transport you back to Grindelwald. Try to make reservations 2 to 3 days in advance.

Faulhorn, at 2,639m (8,656 ft.), is a historic vantage point from which you can view a panorama of untouched alpine beauty. Near the summit is the mountain hotel Faulhorn Hotel ( 033/853-27-13), which has been here for over 150 years and can be reached in a 7-hour hike from Grindelwald. Less committed hikers usually opt for cable-car or bus transfers to Bussalp, to First, or to Schynige Platte, and then continue their hike on to Faulhorn from any of those three points. Hikes to Faulhorn from Bussalp take 2 3/4 hours; from First, 2 1/2 hours; and from Schynige Platte, 4 hours.

A 30-minute ride on a six-passenger gondola (“bubble car”) will take you to First Mountain ★★, at 2,134m (7,000 ft.). You can stop at the intermediate stations of Bort and Grindd as you cross the alpine meadows to the First Mountain terminal and sun terrace. You’ll have many hiking possibilities into the neighboring Bussalp or Grosse Scheidegg area, and you can return by bus. An hour’s brisk hike will take you to idyllic Lake Bachalp. Besides the 2 1/2-hour trek to Faulhorn, you can trek on foot to the Schynige Platte in 6 hours. A round-trip gondola ride between Grindelwald and First costs 68F. There’s a large restaurant at First, Bergrestaurant First ( 033/484-16-66; www.bergrestaurant-first.ch), where you can order lunch.

Grosse Scheidegg ★, at 1,930m (6,330 ft.), is a famous pass between the Grindelwald and Rosenlaui valleys. You can hike here in 3 hours from Grindelwald, or take the bus for 40 minutes. Our preference is usually to take a bus to Grosse Scheidegg and then begin our hill walking away from the village traffic and crowds. Round-trip bus passage from Grindelwald to Grosse Scheidegg is 47F per person.

If you want to climb in the upper regions of the Oberland, you might consider this itinerary: Take a bus from Grindelwald to Grosse Scheidegg. Walk for 2 1/2 hours from Grosse Scheidegg to Schwartzwaldalp. The peaks of the First and Wetterhorn will loom on either side of you. After a panoramic respite in Schwartzwaldalp, you can take a bus, which will retrace your steps back to Grindelwald via Grosse Scheidegg. This excursion is only possible in the summer; the total bus fare is 53F per person. Also only in the summer, a short aerial cable-car ride will take you to Pfingstegg, at 1,369m (4,490 ft.), from which you can hike to the Lower and Upper Grindelwald glaciers. The round-trip cost is 18F. A hike to Baregg-Stieregg (1 hr.) is highly recommended as a 1-day journey, as is the trek to Banisegg (2 hr.). You’ll get a view of the Eismeer and the Fiescherwand, and they’re both worth the hike.

From Grindelwald, it’s also easy to visit Kleine Scheidegg ★★, which is the departure point for the final ascent to Jungfraujoch by train. The rack-and-pinion railway from Grindelwald to Kleine Scheidegg costs 54F round-trip or 32F each way. For information on this and all trains departing from Grindelwald, call the Grindelwald railway station ( 033/828-75-40).

Skiing In winter Grindelwald is one of the major ski resorts of Europe, perfect as a base for skiing in the Jungfrau ski region. It has 22 lifts, 8 funiculars, a trio of cable cars, and more than 160km (100 miles) of downhill runs. Snowboarders and novice skiers are also welcome. It’s a ski circus for all ages and various skills.

In the winter, skiers take the cableway to Männlichen, at 2,200m (7,216 ft.), which opens onto a panoramic vista of the treacherous Eiger. From here there is no direct run back to Wengen; however, skiers can enjoy an uninterrupted ski trail stretching 7.2km (4 1/2 miles) to Grindelwald. The cost of the Männlichen cable car (Grindelwald-Grund to Männlichen) is 37F each way, or 62F round-trip. For information, call the departure point for the Männlichen Bahn in Grindelwald ( 033/854-80-80).

Shopping

There are a lot more shops in Grindelwald than the seasonal local economy can sometimes support (many shops, hastily opened to capitalize on the influx of tourists, last for only one season). Most of them line the crowded edges of the resort’s main thoroughfare, a sometimes traffic-clogged highway. A half-dozen of these shops specialize in sporting goods and ski equipment, many stockpiling inventory from prestigious, high-tech manufacturers from around Europe and North America. The best of them include Buri-Sport, Hauptstrasse ( 033/853-14-27), and Bernet Sport, Hauptstrasse ( 033/853-13-09; www.bernet-sport.ch). If you’re in the market for a timepiece, Casa Grande, Beim Bahnhof ( 033/853-50-15), has a wide inventory of all kinds of Swiss watches and—to a much lesser extent—simple jewelry.

Where to Stay

Very Expensive

Belvedere ★ This is a vastly renovated government-rated four-star superior hotel dating from 1907. It once declined the offer of a higher rating from the Swiss government so that it could keep its prices within reason. It has the most spectacular view in Grindelwald, and its luxurious public rooms include a fireplace and comfortable armchairs. There’s also a lounge for nonsmokers decorated in the antique Louis Philippe style with well-preserved old pieces and Bohemian crystal chandeliers. The attractive and spacious bedrooms all have balconies and private bathrooms. Twenty-two of the double rooms are classified as luxury twins or junior suites. The hotel is a 5-minute walk from the center of the resort and easily accessible by the mountain railway systems.

CH-3818 Grindelwald. www.belvedere-grindelwald.ch. 033/854-57-57. Fax 033/853-53-23. 55 units. 350F–630F double; 520F–770F junior suite. Rates include breakfast and 6-course dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; exercise room; Jacuzzi; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: TV, DVD player (in some), hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Grand Hotel Regina ★★★ Across from the Grindelwald train station, this hotel is part rustic and part urban slick and dates from the turn of the 20th century. It became a hotel in 1953 and still evokes the glamour of that era. The facade of the oldest part has an imposing set of turrets with red-tile roofs. One of the salons has Victorian chairs clustered around bridge tables, with sculpture in wall niches. The collection of art includes etchings, gouaches, and oil paintings. The large bedrooms, done in various styles, are comfortable and contain well-maintained bathrooms. These elegantly furnished rooms are your finest choice for a vacation here in either summer or winter. Most bedrooms enjoy panoramic views.

CH-3818 Grindelwald. www.grandregina.ch. 800/223-6800 in the U.S., or 033/854-86-00. Fax 033/854-86-88. 90 units. 630F–740F double; 760F–2,690F suite. AE, MC, V. Free parking outside, 20F in garage. Closed mid-Oct to mid-Dec. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; exercise room; 2 pools (1 heated indoor); room service; spa. In room: TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (5F per 30 min.).

Romantik Hotel Schweizerhof ★★ Originally built in 1912 on the former site an ironmonger’s and blacksmith’s shop, this spacious and gracious hotel sits on the main street of Grindelwald, close to the railway station, behind a facade of very dark wood that resembles an oft-expanded chalet. The public areas are comfortably outfitted with deep upholstered wing chairs and sofas, and bedrooms have tile-sheathed bathrooms, carved-pine panels, comfortable furniture, and lots of folkloric charm. Staff is helpful and friendly.

CH-3818 Grindelwald. www.hotel-schweizerhof.com. 033/854-58-58. Fax 033/854-58-59. 52 units. 360F–550F double; 470F–1,142F suite. Rates include half board. AE, DC, V. Closed Oct to mid-Dec and Apr 6 to late May. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; spa; Wi-Fi (free, in lobby). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Moderate

Central Hotel Wolter It’s more modern and boxy than the other hotels in town, but its central location just a few steps from several more expensive hotels makes it a solid and reliable choice. On the ground floor, there’s a popular outdoor cafe and a substantial restaurant. Upstairs are the reception area and a salon that resembles a room in a private home. It has armchairs, a few antiques, and a compact bar. The small bedrooms are simply decorated, all with comfortable beds and well-kept bathrooms.

CH-3818 Grindelwald. www.central-wolter.ch. 033/854-33-33. Fax 033/854-33-39. 35 units. 170F–240F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Half board 30F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 5F. Closed mid-Nov to mid-Dec. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; free entrance to nearby sports center. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Derby Peter and Christiane Märkle carry on the century-old family tradition at this large and modernized mountain chalet, which is rated three stars by the government. The present building, with a twin-peaked roof and several irregularly shaped balconies, dates from 1973. The pine-paneled bedrooms are brightly furnished and comfortable, if a bit small. The Derby offers some of the best restaurant and bar options in town.

CH-3818 Grindelwald. www.derby-grindelwald.ch. 033/854-54-61. Fax 033/853-24-26. 70 units. 226F–276F double; 266F–316F junior suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. Half board 38F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (5F per hr.).

Hotel Eiger This hotel looks like a collection of interconnected balconies from the outside, each on a different plane and built of contrasting shades of white stucco and natural wood. The interior is attractive, simple, and unpretentious, with lots of warmly tinted wood, hanging lamps, and contrasting lights. The small to midsize bedrooms are comfortable, well furnished, and alpine cozy. Maintenance is high, and the hotel staff is extremely inviting and hospitable.

CH-3818 Grindelwald. www.eiger-grindelwald.ch. 033/854-31-31. Fax 033/854-31-30. 50 units. 250F–420F double; 300F–520F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. Half board 40F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking outdoors, 6F–12F in garage. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; exercise room; spa; Wi-Fi (free). In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Hotel Gletschergarten ★ One of the oldest and most evocative hotels in town is this family-run (by the Breitensteins) hotel that originally opened in 1899 as a cafe and restaurant, and which by 1906 had become a full-fledged, full-service hotel. Ongoing renovations since then have kept the place looking spiffy. It sits at the eastern edge of the main street of Grindelwald, nearly adjacent to the town’s church, behind a time-blackened wooden facade with lots of folkloric detailing. Bedrooms are tasteful and cozy, with views over the mountains and their permanent snowfields. Those on the corners of the building tend to be a bit larger than the others. Each has access to a balcony, which in midsummer is likely to be festooned with flowering plants. Expect goodly doses of cozy comfort at this place, as well as a gracious welcome. The food is very good and reasonably priced.

CH-3818 Grindelwald. www.hotel-gletschergarten.ch. 033/853-17-21. Fax 033/853-29-57. 26 units. 200F–300F double. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Apr to late May and early Oct to mid-Dec. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant and bar (open to hotel guests only); sauna; Wi-Fi (free, in lobby). In room: TV, hair dryer.

Hotel Kreuz & Post ★ This angular, modern hotel is ideally located on the main square of town, across from the Sports Center. The Konzett family takes advantage of the location by setting up an outdoor cafe on the sidewalk in front. The interior is decorated in part with 18th-century antiques and engravings. Many of the rooms have balconies. Ranging from small to midsize, the tidy units are traditionally furnished and equipped with neatly kept bathrooms. The welcome here is warm in any season. There’s a sun terrace on the roof with a panoramic view of the mountains.

CH-3818 Grindelwald. www.kreuz-post.ch. 033/854-54-92. Fax 033/854-54-99. 42 units. Winter 160F–215F per person double, 180F–300F per person suite; summer 120F–175F per person double, 155F–300F per person suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. Half board 45F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; children’s center; exercise room; Jacuzzi; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (12F per hr.).

Inexpensive

Hotel Hirschen In the government-rated three-star Hirschen, the Bleuer family offers one of the best values in town. The hotel, which has an attractive modern facade, is both comfortable and affordable with rooms in a variety of styles. Each is well furnished with good beds and equipped with neatly kept bathrooms.

CH-3818 Grindelwald. www.hirschen-grindelwald.ch. 033/854-84-84. Fax 033/854-84-80. 28 units. 150F–280F double. Rates include continental breakfast. Half board 33F. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking outside, 8F in garage. Closed Nov to mid-Dec. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: TV, Wi-Fi (in most units; free).

Hotel Jungfrau Swiss Mountain Lodge This establishment consists of two hotels, the Jungfrau (with 18 rooms, built in 1903) and the Crystal (with 29 rooms, built in 1972), located across the street from one another at the edge of the village, a 3-minute walk from the railway station. Both the reception area and the dining room, called “Mr. Chicken,” are in the Jungfrau, but both hotels offer clean, comfortable rooms at favorable prices. The lounge has a view of the fierce north face of the Eiger, and it expands onto an outdoor terrace during warm weather. The bedrooms were recently renovated in a Canadian mountain-lodge style.

CH-3818 Grindelwald. www.jungfraulodge.ch. 033/854-41-41. Fax 033/854-41-42. 47 units. Summer 120F–200F double; winter 130F–230F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Closed Nov. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: TV.

Hotel Restaurant Steinbock Mentioned as a tavern for the first time in chronicles in 1798, the rebuilt Steinbock basks in tradition. It’s a cozy, chalet-style, government-rated three-star hotel, just opposite the Sunstar Hotel and lying near the bottom of the gondola leading to the First skiing area in winter or a hiking Valhalla in summer. The ski bus stop for Klein Scheidegg/Männlichen areas is located just next to the Steinbock. Completely rebuilt in 1992, the hotel is run by the Ponzio family, who also operate the on-site Pizzeria da Salvi, where the best pies in town emerge piping hot from a woodstove. Bedrooms are small but handsomely and comfortably furnished in a modern alpine style. The hotel’s Grappa Bar offers 100 different kinds of grappas.

CH-3818 Grindelwald. www.steinbock-grindelwald.ch. 033/853-89-89. Fax 033/853-89-98. 22 units. 110F–145F per person double. Rates include buffet breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi (free, in lobby). In room: TV, hair dryer.

Parkhotel Schoenegg This hotel, established by the Stettler family in 1890, has become a modern expansive property. The bedrooms are cozy and comfortable, some with private balconies. Each is furnished in an alpine decor, and beds are excellent, as is the housekeeping. The hotel’s dining room serves French cuisine. Various local ski runs terminate at the hotel; a lift to the ski school is close to the front door.

CH-3818 Grindelwald. www.parkhotelschoenegg.ch. 033/854-18-18. Fax 033/854-18-19. 50 units. 160F–210F per person double. Rates include half board. AE, MC, V. Parking 8F–14F. Closed Apr to mid-June and late Oct to mid-Dec. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; exercise room; Jacuzzi; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: Hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat

Expensive

La Pendule d’Or/Jägerstube ★ SWISS/FRENCH Some of the best cuisine in Grindelwald is served in these two dining rooms. Men must wear jackets and ties in La Pendule d’Or, but not in Jägerstube, an elegant version of a hunter’s retreat, and our preferred choice. Some special dishes include crayfish tails in puff pastry with a green asparagus salad with stuffed morels, or medallions of ox gratinated with tomatoes and mozzarella. The cooking, if not always sublime, is exceedingly professional. Flavors are balanced and ingredients are first-rate. Both restaurants serve the same menu, but fondue is offered only in the Jägerstube. Service is formal.

In the Grand Hotel Regina. 033/854-86-00. Reservations recommended. Main courses 53F–68F. AE, DC, MC, V. La Pendule d’Or daily noon–2pm and 7–10pm. Jägerstube daily 7–10pm. Closed mid-Oct to mid-Dec.

Restaurant Français ★★ INTERNATIONAL This is the best restaurant in Grindelwald. The owner, Urs Hauser, is always in the dining room during meal hours to aid and advise diners. Special buffets are a feature of the restaurant. As you listen to the soothing sounds of a live pianist, you can study the menu, which changes frequently. Just to give you an idea, you may be served an appetizer of game terrine, Grindelwald air-dried meat, or thinly sliced lamb carpaccio. Fish dishes may include poached filet of turbot served on zucchini and potato rounds with a yellow-red pepper sauce, or fried filet of salmon with a truffle-butter sauce. Main dishes are likely to include lamb entrecôte in a coating of peppercorns, or breast of guinea fowl with red wine and prunes. The cuisine intelligently blends flavors with imagination and zest. The cooks in the kitchen really know their stuff, and the wine list is among the finest in the area.

In the Hotel Belvedere. 033/854-54-54. Reservations recommended. Main courses 36F–43F; 6-course gourmet menu 72F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–1pm and 6:45–9pm.

Moderate

Il Mercato ITALIAN/SWISS The decor is elegant and alpine, with Italian touches you might expect in the Ticino. The dining room’s visual centerpiece is a large window with a sweeping view over the mountains. During warm weather, tables are set out on a flower-dotted terrace. Menu items include virtually everything from the Italian repertoire, with an emphasis on cold-weather dishes from the Val d’Aosta (northern Italy’s milk and cheese district). There’s a tempting array of salads, pizzas, pastas, risottos, and grilled veal, beef, and chicken dishes, always with fresh ingredients.

In the Hotel Spinne. 033/854-88-88. www.spinne.ch. Reservations recommended. Main courses 22F–60F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2pm and 6–9:30pm. Closed Oct to mid-Dec.

Restaurant Alte Post ★ SWISS Often fully booked at least a day in advance, this Swiss, pine-paneled charmer serves traditional specialties, often to local residents of Grindelwald, with efficient service. Typical dishes include a terrine of morels, smoked filet of trout, asparagus with air-dried ham, filet steak with green peppers, scallop of veal cordon bleu, and beef Stroganoff. Because of the first-rate cooking and the quality ingredients, this is one of the most satisfying choices in town.

CH-3818 Grindelwald. 033/853-42-42. Reservations required. Main courses 19F–50F. AE, MC, V. Thurs–Tues 11:30am–2pm and 6:30–9pm. Closed end of Oct to mid-Dec.

Restaurant Kreuz & Post SWISS/INTERNATIONAL Explore this alpine restaurant before choosing a table. Tucked away in the corner is an attractive room, the Challi-Stube; the ceiling and paneling are especially well crafted. Everything in here is made of wood from a farmhouse that was torn down in 1748. The menu is in English, and hearty alpine flavor and first-class ingredients characterize the cuisine. Typical appetizers are smoked salmon and oxtail soup. For a main course, steak, pork, and fish are offered, including blue trout sautéed in butter. For a traditional Swiss dish, try sliced veal Zurich style with rösti, or veal steak with a morel-cream sauce. The chef specializes in the two classic fondues, chinoise and bourguignon, served for two.

In the Hotel Kreuz & Post. 033/854-54-92. Reservations recommended. Main courses 18F–56F. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–2pm and 6:30–8:45pm. Closed mid-Apr to mid-May.

Restaurant Sportzentrum SWISS This rustic, timbered dining room in the modern Sports Center is in the middle of the resort. Windows look down over an indoor swimming pool on one side and an enormous ice-hockey rink on the other. It opens early in the morning and serves snacks and drinks until late. The menu offers many Swiss specialties, including cheese fondue, beef bourguignon, and Wiener schnitzel. Come here for typically soul-satisfying Swiss food, each dish well prepared and reasonably in priced.

CH-3818 Grindelwald. 033/853-32-77. Reservations not accepted. Main courses 20F–47F. MC, V. Daily 7:30am–11:30pm.

Inexpensive

Onkel Tom’s Hütte PIZZAS/SALADS Set within a rustic-looking A-frame house whose indestructible furniture and plank floors have seen thousands of snow-and-mud-covered boots tramping across its surface, this is Grindelwald’s most visible and popular pizza place. There’s a wide selection of beer and wine available, and a multilingual staff member will bring any of the three sizes of pizza to your amiably scarred and battered table. Varieties of pizza include the Onkel Tom (tomatoes, cheese, pepperoni, and assorted vegetables), the Rustica (tomatoes, cheese, broccoli, and garlic), and an Al Capone (tomatoes, cheese, braised leeks, bacon, and onion).

At the top of Hauptstrasse, near the Firstbahn cable-car station. 033/853-52-39. Reservations not accepted. Pizzas 15F–33F; salads 8F–17F. MC, V. Thurs 6–10:30pm; Fri–Tues noon–2pm and 4–10:30pm. Closed Nov and June.

Grindelwald After Dark

After sundown, Grindelwald transforms itself into one of the liveliest towns in the Bernese Oberland. In addition to the following choices, many of the hotels sponsor get-together parties at least once a week for residents, and each contains at least one bar. Bars that aggressively seek the patronage of nonresidents include the Cava Bar, in the Derby Hotel ( 033/854-54-61), which is located near the railway station and throws in the occasional live band, and the Challi Bar, in the Hotel Kreuz & Post ( 033/854-54-92), which does a roaring business—mostly from drinkers, less so from dancers—inside what looks like the re-creation of an alpine barnyard lined with roughly textured planks. Both bars are only open in the winter.

Don’t be fooled by the name of the Espresso Bar, in the Hotel Spinne ( 033/854-88-88), a cramped, hot, and crowded venue with the inner walls of a log cabin and a penchant for suds and schnapps. Only a handful of its clients actually opt for coffee. The same hotel is the site of everybody’s favorite ethnic hideaway, the Disco Mescalero. Here, tacos, tortillas, and refried beans are served until around 10pm, after which lots of very danceable music is unleashed. Over the summer, the Mexican restaurant is closed; the disco, however, still opens 3 days a week. Offhandedly elegant are Regina Bar, the entertainment focal point of the Grand Hotel Regina ( 033/854-86-00), and Le Plaza-Club, a prosperous-looking disco favored by prosperous-looking people in the Hotel Sunstar ( 033/854-77-77). Finally, the Gepsi-Bar, in the Hotel Eiger ( 033/844-31-31), is appealingly conducive to dialogue and flirtation. There’s no dancing here, but musicians sometimes arrive to perk things up a bit.

Gstaad ★★

61km (38 miles) SW of Thun; 42km (26 miles) SE of Bulle

Against a backdrop of glaciers and mountain lakes, Gstaad is a haven for the rich and famous. Frequent visitors have included King Juan Carlos II of Spain, the late Elizabeth Taylor, and Julie Andrews.

Built at the junction of four quiet valleys near the southern tip of the Bernese Oberland, Gstaad was once only a place to change horses during the grueling voyage through the Oberland. But as the railroad lines developed, it grew into a resort. After the opening of the deluxe Alpina Grand Hotel, wealthy Russian and Hungarian families started coming, bringing their entourages of valets, nannies, and translators. In 1912, 2 years before the outbreak of World War I, a hotel that was to become one of the most legendary in Switzerland, the Palace, opened, promising the ultimate in luxury. In 1916, Le Rosey school (listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as “the most expensive prep school in the world”) opened its doors in the satellite town of Tolle. The school contributed to the fame of Gstaad, as prestigious visitors, including King Leopold of Belgium, came to see their children.

The town, by far the most chic in the Bernese Oberland, retains much of its turn-of-the-20th-century charm. Some first-time visitors, however, say that the resort is a bore if you can’t afford to stay at the Gstaad Palace or mingle with the stars in their private chalets. Yet the town has many moderately priced hotels, taverns, and guesthouses with an allure of their own. Many of the bistros and cafes close from late April to mid-June and from October to mid-December.

Essentials

Getting There Gstaad is on the local train line connecting Interlaken with Montreux and several smaller towns in central-southwest Switzerland. About a dozen trains come into Gstaad every day from both of those cities, each of which is a railway junction with good connections to the rest of Switzerland. Travel time from Montreux can be as little as an hour and 20 minutes; from Interlaken, about 30 minutes, sometimes with a change of train at the hamlet of Zweisimmen. Call 0900/300-300 or visit www.sbb.ch for rail schedules and information.

If you’re driving from Spiez, head southwest on Route 11; from Bulle, head south and then east on Route 11.

Visitor Information Some streets have names; others are placed outside street plans, but there are directional signs to lead you to hotels and restaurants. The Gstaad-Saanenland Tourist Association, CH-3780 Gstaad ( 033/748-81-81; www.gstaad.ch), is a useful source of information, open July and August Monday to Friday from 8:30am to 6:30pm, Saturday 9am to 6pm, and Sunday 10am to 5pm; September to June, hours are Monday to Friday 8:30am to noon and 1:30 to 6pm, and Saturday 10am to noon and 1:30 to 5pm.

Fun in the Outdoors

Gstaad is a resort rich in entertainment and sports facilities. Many skiers stay in Gstaad by night and venture to one of the nearby ski resorts during the day. Cable cars take passengers to altitudes of 1,500m and 3,000m (4,920 ft. and 9,840 ft.)—at the higher altitudes, there’s skiing even in the summer. Other facilities include tennis courts, heated indoor and outdoor swimming pools, and about 320km (200 miles) of hiking trails. Many of these scenic trails are possible to walk or hike year-round (the tourist office will advise). The Gstaad International Tennis Tournament, beginning the first Saturday in July, is the most important tennis event in Switzerland.

Skiers setting off from Gstaad have access to 70 lifts, mountain railroads, and gondolas. The altitude of Gstaad’s highest skiable mountain is 1,965m (6,445 ft.), with a vertical drop of 1,066m (3,496 ft.). Most beginner and intermediate runs are east of the village in Eggli, a ski area reached by cable car. Eggli has a sunny, southern exposure. Wispellan-Sanetch is favored for afternoon skiing, with lots of runs down to the village. At its summit is the Glacier des Diablerets, at a height of 2,970m (9,741 ft.). Wasserngrat, reached from the south side of the resort, is yet another skiing area. Advanced skiers prize Wasserngrat for its powder skiing on steep slopes.

Swiss Ski School at Gstaad ( 033/744-18-65; www.gstaadsnowsports.ch) has first-class teachers and qualified mountain and touring guides, with special classes available for children. Some 100 private instructors are available. It receives stiff competition from the Schweizer Schi Schule (Swiss Ski School; 033/744-36-65; www.snow-sports.ch) in the nearby satellite resort of Schönried.

Gstaad has several satellite resorts, which many visitors prefer. Saanen and Schönried are both summer and winter resorts, with excellent accommodations. Saanen, at 1,051m (3,447 ft.), is east of Gstaad; some of its wooden chalets date from the 1500s. The Menuhin Festival draws an international music-loving crowd from late July to mid-September. The resort can be reached easily by car or by the Montreux-Oberland railway; there’s also a small airfield at Saanen for visitors who fly in. Schönried, some 4km (2 1/2 miles) northeast of Gstaad, is appreciated for its arguably better snowfall and accommodations, notably the Alpenrose Hotel.

Whichever resort you choose—Gstaad, Saanen, or Schönried—you’ll be surrounded by dramatic glaciers and bucolic alpine pastures. This part of the country, called Saanenland, is one of the most beautiful parts of Switzerland.

The funiculars and chairlifts around Gstaad are configured into a system that services the slopes of at least six other resorts scattered over four valleys of the Bernese Oberland. In addition to Gstaad, the region’s star, the resorts include Saanen, Saanen-Möser, Schönreid, and Sankt Stephan.

An all-inclusive ski pass—known locally as the Ski Gstaad Pass ( 033/748-81-81; www.gstaad.ch)—is sold at the departure point of any of the region’s funicular stations, and allows access to 250km (155 miles) of downhill slopes and 70 chairlifts and gondolas. The all-inclusive passes may vary depending on what point in the season you buy them, but generally cost 123F for 2 days or 280F for 5 days, with a complicated set of discounts for children, depending on their age and to what degree they’re traveling as part of a family unit.

If you’re in Gstaad for only 1 day, it’s probably smarter to buy a limited pass for access to just a few slopes and chairlifts. The less comprehensive pass (known as a pass for Eggli-La Vide Manette) is sold only in 1-day increments for a price of 62F. Frankly, for anyone planning on 2 or more days of skiing, it’s a lot more appealing, and not that much more expensive, to go for the more comprehensive pass.

Shopping

Stores along Gstaad’s main shopping street, Hauptstrasse, seem more upscale, more lavish, and more aggressively tuned to the big-city affluence of Paris, London, and Munich than in virtually any other ski resort in Switzerland. Most of the shops that sell sporting goods in Gstaad inventory other sorts of casual and formal clothing as well, allowing buyers one-stop shopping for the layered look that keeps you warmer on the slopes. Two worthy outlets are Brand, Palace Strasse ( 033/744-17-75; www.brandsport.ch), and Vertex Sports, Viktoriastrasse 2 ( 033/744-15-47; www.vertex-sports.ch). If you want to check out the kinds of jewelry bought by the resort’s most glamorous clients, consider a visit to Villiger, Promenade ( 033/744-11-22). Barring that, you can always visit any of the aggressively upscale, relentlessly chic luxury boutiques in the Palace Hotel.

Von Siebenthal, Promenade ( 033/744-12-81), is a three-story housewares emporium filled with high-performance Swiss-made gadgets, ranging from wooden molds for making anise cookies to fondue sets.

The best bookstore for reading on a cold alpine night is Media Treff Gstaad, Lauenenstrasse ( 033/744-39-90; www.mediatreff.ch).

Where to Stay

Gstaad is not known for its inexpensive hotels. Prices soar in the winter. When business is slow, many of the hotels close; the dates of these closings can vary from year to year.

Very Expensive

Grand Hotel Park ★★★ This landmark hotel lives again. In 1990, one of the Oberland’s most venerable hotels was demolished and rebuilt in a style that reflects the 1910 original. Associated with, and partially owned by, investors in the Palace Hotel, it sits astride a hill overlooking the center of the town and across from the Palace. Its design, including the bedrooms, evokes a mixture of the Edwardian age with a posh ski resort you might find in Vail, Colorado. Standard rooms measure a generous 35 sq. m (377 sq. ft.), and the more expensive rooms facing south open onto views of the Wispile, Eggli, and Glacier des Diablerets. Each room comes with an immaculately kept bathroom. Although some of the original turn-of-the-20th-century furniture was incorporated into the new design, much of the interior is sleekly modern and richly accessorized with decorative and structural bands of chiseled granite, polished marble, and burnished pine. It’s also home to the first Louis Vuitton boutique in a European hotel.

Wispilenstrasse, CH-3780 Gstaad. www.grandhotelpark.ch. 033/748-98-00. Fax 033/748-98-08. 99 units. Winter 710F–990F double, from 1,810F suite; summer 490F–920F double, from 1,420F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 20F in winter, free in summer. Closed mid-Mar to mid-June and mid-Sept to mid-Dec. Amenities: 5 restaurants; 3 bars; babysitting; bikes; children’s center; concierge; exercise room; 2 pools (1 indoor heated saltwater); room service; spa. In room: TV/DVD, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Olden ★★ This is one of the most low-key and gracefully unpretentious hotels in Gstaad, a sort of Victorian country inn set amid a sometimes chillingly glamorous landscape—or at least a chillingly expensive landscape. The Olden has a facade painted with regional floral designs and pithy bits of folk wisdom. Embellishments are carved or painted into the stone lintels around many of the doors. The small to midsize rooms are generally furnished in a typical alpine style, although the bathrooms have been modernized. Some guests are housed in the adjacent chalet wing (the comfort level and amenities are the same).

Hauptstrasse, CH-3780 Gstaad. www.hotelolden.ch. 033/748-49-50. Fax 033/748-49-59. 16 units. Winter 500F–680F double, 680F–850F junior suite, 780F–1,680F suite; summer 350F–550F double, 550F–690F junior suite, 650F–1,500F suite. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 20F. Closed late Apr to early June. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Palace Hotel Gstaad ★★★ This other landmark hotel on a wooded hill overlooks the center of Gstaad. Opened in 1912, the Palace has mock-fortified corner towers and a neomedieval facade. Fashion designer Valentino called the architecture a “brutal Sleeping Beauty castle.” It’s one of the most sought-after luxury hideaways in the world, attracting corporation heads, movie stars, and fashionable aristocrats, many of whom return every winter and stay a long time, earning the Palace the reputation as “Switzerland’s largest family boardinghouse.” Manager Andrea Scherz’s motto is: “Every king is a client, and every client is a king.” It’s true—if you can afford it.

The nerve center of this chic citadel is an elegantly paneled main salon, with an “eternal flame” burning in the baronial stone fireplace (though this flame isn’t so eternal—it burns only in winter). Radiating hallways lead to superb restaurants, bars, discos, and sports facilities. The plush, spacious rooms are tastefully furnished and very distinguished.

Palacestrasse 1, CH-3780 Gstaad. www.palace.ch. 800/223-6800 in the U.S., or 033/748-50-00. Fax 033/748-50-01. 104 units. Winter 1,020F–1,890F double, 2,190F–2,540F junior suite, 2,900F–13,900F suite; summer 650F–1,210F double, 1,340F–1,540F junior suite, 2,060F–9,700F suite. Rates include half board. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking outside, 20F in garage. Closed end of Mar to mid-June and late Sept to shortly before Christmas (dates vary). Amenities: 5 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; bikes; children’s center; concierge; exercise room; health club and spa; 2 pools (1 heated indoor); room service; 4 outdoor tennis courts (lit). In room: TV/DVD, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Expensive

Grand Hotel Bellevue ★ A venerable favorite still holding its own, this hotel opened in 1912. It stands in a serene park with tall, old trees in the midst of the town. The rooms are spacious and well lit, in a calming color palette. The furnishings are traditional and exceedingly comfortable, as reflected by the deluxe beds and the well-maintained bathrooms. When you check in, you get government-rated five-star luxury in the standard doubles, junior suites, or deluxe suites. The Michelin-star rated restaurant Coelho serves acclaimed cuisine in its dining room and on a sunny terrace. For entertainment, the hotel bar has its own pianist, and in the basement is a private cinema surrounded by a wine cellar. The on-site spa is one of the best in the area, many of its bath facilities inspired by Japan.

Hauptstrasse, CH-3780 Gstaad. www.bellevue-gstaad.ch. 033/748-00-00. Fax 033/748-00-01. 52 units. 390F–890F double; 790F–1,190F junior suite; 890F–2,500F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking outside. Closed mid-Oct to mid-Dec. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; concierge; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; spa. In room: TV/DVD, CD player, fax, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hostellerie Alpenrose ★★★ For those who seek the charm of a small inn, this is the preferred choice in the area—it’s the only Relais & Châteaux listing within 48km (30 miles). The pine-paneled rooms are exquisitely decorated with rustic furnishings, and the small bedrooms are comfortable and tastefully appointed. Its kindly host, Michel von Siebenthal, is a memorable fellow, setting the fashionable tone of the chalet, which is famous for its restaurant (see below).

Saanenmöserstrasse, CH-3778 Schönried-Gstaad. www.hotelalpenrose.ch. 033/748-91-91. Fax 033/748-91-92. 19 units. 300F–660F double; 590F–1,080F suite. Rates include half board. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Closed mid-Oct to mid-Dec. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; bikes; Jacuzzi; room service; sauna. In room: TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Bernerhof ★ This hotel lies in the center of the resort town, about half a block from the rail station. Built on the site of a hotel dating from 1904, it offers modern comforts and attracts a loyal clientele that keeps in touch via a hotel newsletter. Wooden balconies extend across the front. Thomas and Claudia Frei offer well-furnished rooms with neatly kept bathrooms. Children are catered to at the hotel, and many activities are planned for them. The restaurant is recommended below. The Stöckli Bar is a popular place for drinks.

Bernerhofplatz, CH-3780 Gstaad. www.bernerhof-gstaad.ch. 033/748-88-44. Fax 033/748-88-40. 47 units. 276F–526F double; 326F–560F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. Half board 45F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking outside, 15F in garage. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; babysitting; bikes; children’s playground; exercise room; Jacuzzi; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: TV, CD player, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Le Grand Chalet ★★ Tucked away near the mountains in Gstaad is this cozy and distinctly Swiss family-run hotel. The rooms use light-wood furniture and moldings, white walls and linens, and strategically placed lights to make the accommodations elegant and seemingly spacious. Every room has a desk and a plethora of closet space. The double rooms here are much nicer than the suites, which tend to be on the gaudy and dim side. However, the views from their balconies are panoramic, so it’s a trade-off.

Le Grand Chalet, CH-3780 Gstaad. www.grandchalet.ch. 033/748-76-76. Fax 033/748-76-77. 25 units. 140F–320F per person double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Apr, May, and Nov. Amenities: 2 restaurants; exercise room; room service; sauna. In room: TV, kitchenette (in some), hair dryer, minibar.

Wellness & Spa Hotel Ermitage-Golf ★★ This is a government-rated five-star hotel designed and built in 1958. Its developers intended for a golf course to surround it on all sides. Although the building permit for the golf course was eventually refused by the city, the name remained in place. There’s a 9-hole golf course about 3km (2 miles) away, however. Today, this is a large and comfortable hotel, with a helpful staff and lots of alpine warmth. In the winter, it’s a toasty, cozy retreat; in the summer, it’s a pleasure chalet, as red geraniums bloom on its balconies and chaise longues are set up on its lawns. Heiner Lutz and Laurenz Schmid offer paneled bedrooms, each individually furnished. Some have Oriental rugs and offer grand comfort.

Hauptstrasse, CH-3778 Schönried-Gstaad. www.ermitagegolf.ch. 033/748-60-60. Fax 033/748-60-67. 69 units. 400F–680F double; 520F–780F junior suite; from 650F suite. Rates include half board with a minimum stay of 3 nights. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 12F–18F. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; exercise room; Jacuzzi; 2 pools (1 heated indoor); room service; sauna; 2 outdoor tennis courts (lit). In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Life in an Igloo

Being cold is the “hot” new trend in Switzerland. Igloo Village, Rotzbergstrasse 15, CH-6362 Stansstad, Gstaad (www.iglu-dor.com 041/61-22-728; www.iglu-dor.com), caters to Eskimo wannabes who can overnight here in this ice box. Igloos suitable for 2 to 6 guests are rented. Of course, to live in igloo you should show up prepared, with warm clothing, soft boots or moonboots, long underwear, even swimming gear and flip-flops for the sauna or Jacuzzi. If you like to make love in the cold, there is a romantic suite, including a private whirlpool bath. The charge is 100F to 120F per adult or 80F to 95F per person for ages up to 20. This rate includes dinner in the adjoining hotel bar, which is adjacent to the Igloo Bar, plus breakfast. If you stay here, it is almost guaranteed that you will be the first on the piste in the morning.

Moderate

Hotel Alphorn Located at the base of the Wispile cable car, this intimate chalet is a small, relatively unpublicized hotel owned by the Bruriswill family. The hotel, built in 1970 and enlarged and upgraded in 1992, has a ski shop on the premises. The small rooms are comfortable and snug, each fitted with a well-kept private bathroom.

Steigstrasse, CH-3780 Gstaad. www.gstaad-alphorn.ch. 033/748-45-45. Fax 033/748-45-46. 30 units. 170F–270F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Half board 35F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; babysitting; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (7F per 24 hr.).

Posthotel Rössli The Rössli is an authentic and traditional chalet in the center of Gstaad. Often attracting a young crowd, it’s well heated and furnished with modern conveniences in its small but cozy and comfortable bedrooms. All are equipped with neatly kept bathrooms. Every week, Ruedi Widmer, mountain guide, ski teacher, and owner of the hotel, organizes walks and grill parties in summer or skiing days in winter. Guests are invited to participate at no extra charge. Locals mix with guests in the bierstube (beer tavern), the Stübli.

Promenade, CH-3780 Gstaad. www.posthotelroessli.ch. 033/748-42-42. Fax 033/748-42-43. 36 units. 196F–352F double. Half board 36F per person. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free outdoor parking, 10F in garage. Amenities: Restaurant; bikes. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat

Most visitors dine at their hotel, so there are few independent restaurants in Gstaad. The following choices include some worth venturing out for, as well as others in previously recommended hotels.

Very Expensive

Hostellerie Alpenrose ★★ SWISS/FRENCH During the summer, the paneled dining rooms are full of local residents and guests from the surrounding chalets. Michel von Siebenthal is your chef; his father built the first ski lift in the region in 1935. He has elevated a modest pension into a culinary citadel known throughout Switzerland for its cuisine. The varied menu changes every 3 weeks. Lobster is almost always on the menu, but look for marinated salmon, which remains a delectable house specialty. Begin with the duck-liver terrine or a velvety-smooth imaginative soup made of nettles. One savory dish is a cassoulet of mushrooms. The grilled turbot is prepared with several different sauces, including an unusual carrot sauce, and you can also order a superb wild duck in a juniper-berry sauce. Consider having an after-dinner drink in the nightclub, Sammy’s.

Saanenmöserstrasse. 033/748-91-91. Reservations recommended. Main courses 46F–75F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6:30–10pm; Wed–Thurs noon–2pm; Fri–Sun noon–2:30pm. Closed mid-Nov to mid-Dec.

Olden Restaurant ★★ MEDITERRANEAN/FRENCH This is the most formal restaurant of the several dining choices available in the Hotel Olden. On the street level, it attracts the latest visiting celebrity with its country charm. Meals are formally served in the pine-paneled dining room. The always-tempting menu might include smoked salmon, fresh gooseliver terrine, shrimp bisque with green peppercorns, house-style tagliatelle, raclette, veal cutlet Milanese, Scottish lamb, or sea bass with olives, potatoes, tomatoes, and onions. Although there are grander restaurants in Gstaad, as well as dining rooms serving a more haute cuisine, the Olden remains our most satisfying choice year after year.

In the Hotel Olden, Hauptstrasse. 033/744-34-44. Reservations recommended. Main courses 65F–93F. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–2:30pm and 6:30–10:30pm. Closed mid-Apr to mid-May and 2 weeks in Nov.

The Restaurant ★★★ FRENCH/INTERNATIONAL The Palace Hotel opens up to three different dining rooms, each elegantly paneled and boasting impeccable service and the finest haute cuisine. Some of the finest chefs in the Bernese Oberland create dishes here for an extremely demanding clientele. Formal attire is essential—men without ties or jackets will be asked to dine in the Sans-Cravatte.

For an appetizer, caviar and foie gras abound, but there are also superb hors d’oeuvres, including beefsteak tartare, and delicate soups and consommés. Some especially delectable dishes include crisp rack of Scottish lamb with eggplant lasagna, grilled sole flavored with oregano, crispy duck for two, and chicken Taj Mahal with curry and many side condiments. This wide repertoire includes imaginative interpretations of old favorites. Most desserts are elaborate, but if you wish, you can order a simple sorbet.

In the Palace Hotel. 033/748-50-00. Reservations required. Main courses 39F–72F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–3pm and 7:30–11pm. Closed end of Mar to mid-June and mid-Sept to shortly before Christmas.

Restaurant Chesery ★★★ FRENCH/SWISS At an elevation of 1,097m (3,598 ft.), this is one of the 10 best restaurants in Switzerland. The floors are pink marble and the walls are polished pine. The menu changes daily, based on the freshest ingredients available. The chef is a perfectionist and shops far and wide for only the finest of produce with which to dazzle his clients—grouse from Scotland, Charolais beef from France, truffles from Umbria. You may sample his salt-crusted sea bass with wild rice, chicken Houban (a very special breed from France), Scottish lamb with a crust of fresh herbs, or rack of venison with whortleberries. In the basement bar, Casino, a piano player entertains nightly, and the bar is open from 6pm to 3am, when the last ski bunny departs.

Lauenenstrasse. 033/744-24-51. www.chesery.ch. Reservations required. Main courses 37F–68F. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 11:30am–2:30pm and 7pm–midnight. Closed mid-Oct to mid-Dec, Easter to mid-June, and in winter (Tues–Fri) for lunch.

Ristorante Rialto ITALIAN One of the finest Italian restaurants in the Bernese Oberland, the Rialto lies in the heart of Gstaad. The proprietors use only the freshest ingredients, and the menu changes with the season. You may begin with a selection of always-tempting antipasti, followed by the luscious salmon carpaccio with a truffle-cream sauce or one of the pasta dishes, including pappardelle. The flavor-filled risotto with fresh asparagus and the chef’s sea bass Mediterranean style are both excellent.

Promenade. 033/744-34-74. www.rialto-gstaad.ch. Reservations recommended. Main courses 39F–75F. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–2:30pm and 6–10:30pm; Sun noon–2pm (light dishes, drinks, and salads through the day). Closed Mon May–June and Nov.

Moderate

Posthotel Rössli SWISS Set within a 150-year-old chalet in the heart of town, nearly adjacent to the Stadtkirche, with a paneled interior, small windows, and agrarian artifacts scattered throughout, this restaurant welcomes many generations of diners. Menu items—most of which are on the lower end of the price scale—are hearty, alpine inspired, and served in generous portions. Examples include pork and veal schnitzels, tender beefsteaks in a mushroom-flavored cream sauce, velvety fondues, chicken roulades layered with ham and cheese, and several variations on Italian pastas. Salads are fresh, and the beer is cold.

Promenade 10. 033/748-42-42. Reservations not accepted. Main courses 18F–48F. AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 4:30–10pm.

Restaurant Stafel INTERNATIONAL This tavern-style restaurant at the also-recommended Hotel Bernerhof attracts plenty of discerning devotees. A longtime family favorite, it serves a menu so wide-ranging there’s something to please just about anyone. Along with the standard international dishes, it also offers a selection of excellent Swiss regional specialties, including a fondue with veal liver. Asian culinary delicacies are featured in the blun-chi section, and every day a large variety of succulent fresh pasta dishes are prepared. The hotel also houses the popular après-ski Stöckli Bar.

In the Hotel Bernerhof. 033/748-88-44. Reservations recommended. Main courses 30F–46F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 6:30–10:30pm.

Gstaad After Dark

Much more than its competitors, Gstaad has been accused of attracting rich folks who care more about the resort’s social scene than they do about skiing. As such, the resort supports a healthy roster of nightspots that range from boozy to glamorous. In midwinter, your options include alpine coziness in at least two mountain huts accessible only by cable car, the Berghaus Eggli, on the Eggli ski slopes ( 033/748-96-12), and the Berghaus Wispile, on the Wispile ski slopes ( 033/748-96-32). Access to either requires an 8-minute ascent on the Eggli (south of the center) and Wispile (north of the center) cable cars (Gondelbahns). Both are infused with the odors of simmering raclette and fondues, are open only during the height of the winter season, and encourage guests to ski home after a night of alpine Gemütlichkeit (a Swiss term for cozy, good times shared with sympathetic souls). Don’t even think of riding the cable car uphill for a meal or drink at either of these places after dark without a reservation, as their scheduling and priorities are as haphazard as anything at the resort.

More conventional evening diversions include the Palace Hotel ( 033/748-50-00), which contains a supremely upscale bar adjacent to the pine-sheathed lobby where the comings and goings could fill any Robin Leach production. The hotel also contains the most exclusive—and occasionally stuffy—disco in Gstaad, the Green Go Disco, where pinpricks of light illuminate a mysterious semipsychedelic decor of orange, green, and black. The disco is open in winter daily from 11pm; in summer, it’s open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday from 11pm. Closing times vary, depending on how late patrons want to party.

In the heart of Gstaad, there’s a bar, the Hostellerie Chesery, Lauenenstrasse ( 033/744-24-51), that hosts both piano music and dance music (later in the evening). Its main focus, its restaurant, is separately recommended above. An appealingly battered hangout reminiscent of England is Richi’s Pub, Hauptstrasse ( 033/744-57-87). Nobody dances here, but the place is a town favorite. A few steps away is a worthy and much more elegant competitor, the Rialto Bar, in the Ristorante Rialto, Promenade ( 033/744-34-74). There is a large terrace in the summer, and in the winter there’s sometimes live music in the restaurant.