Chapter 9: The Valais

The Valais is a region in southern Switzerland that borders on Italy and consists mostly of the valley around the upper Rhône River. The valley was called Vallis Poenina by the Romans, and the Germans refer to it as Wallis. The main attractions here include the Matterhorn, the Great St. Bernard Pass, and Zermatt. The area offers excellent skiing and other winter sports.

The Valais is surrounded by the Alps, with more than 50 major mountain peaks, but the Matterhorn, at 4,410m (14,465 ft.), is by far the most majestic. The Valais contains the largest glacier in Switzerland as well as several others that send tributaries to feed the Rhône, which flows northwest to Lake Geneva, then on through France to the Mediterranean. The Valais also contains about 8 sq. km (3 sq. miles) of lakes.

Often called the hiking capital of Switzerland, the Valais is laced with well-maintained and well-marked mountain paths. Some of these former alpine mule paths are called Roman roads, because in ancient times the Simplon and Great St. Bernard passes were the gateways to the Valais from Italy. Walks along irrigation channels—called bisses—are among the most intriguing for nature lovers.

For centuries the Rhône Valley has been a major route through the Alps. The Celts used the Great St. Bernard Pass and Simplon Pass, and then the Gauls held the territory for 500 years. Hannibal and Napoleon both passed through on their way to conquest. Today, wide highways and tunnels provide a direct route to Italy.

Protected by mountains, the Valais enjoys a sunny, stable climate, with weather comparable to that of northwestern Spain and France’s Provence. The vineyards are second only to those of the Vaud, and the local wine is known for its fruity bouquet and delicate flavor. Dairy farming is widespread. Just outside most of the regional towns, you’ll see mazots or raccards (small, elevated grain-storage barns).

Most residents in the western part of the Valais, from Lake Geneva to Sierre, speak French, while those living to the east speak a German dialect. Many people speak both languages as well as some English. Most residents of the Valais are Roman Catholic, evident in the number of churches, abbeys, and monasteries.

The Valais is an increasingly popular year-round travel destination, but not to worry: The growth of resorts and recreation facilities has not disturbed the natural splendor and tranquillity of the alpine countryside.

Chances are if you’re visiting the Valais by train you’ll land at the major rail terminus of Martigny, which attracts visitors heading across the Great St. Bernard Pass. Visitors going to the ski resort of Verbier also pass through here. Frequent trains arrive in Martigny from Lausanne every hour, taking 30 minutes; from Montreux, every half-hour, taking 30 minutes; and from Sion, every 15 minutes, and taking 30 minutes.

If you’d like to take one of the most scenic bike trips in the Valais, rent a bike at the kiosk at the Martigny train station ( 0900/300-300), for about 28F per day. From there you can cycle through a beautiful region of the lower Valais, heading across the Rhône River to the villages of Fully, Chataigner, Mazembroz, and Saillon. The Rhône Valley route cuts through some of the most magnificent mountain scenery in all of Switzerland. You pass the promenades of Lake Geneva, which, surprisingly, are lined with palm trees and go along miles of Lavaux vineyards. The Alpine pastures in the Urserental are filled with meadows that burst into spring bloom. Always in the distance you can view snow-capped alpine peaks.

Verbier ★

128km (80 miles) E of Geneva; 40km (25 miles) N of Great St. Bernard Tunnel; 29km (18 miles) E of Martigny; 58km (36 miles) SW of Sion

Verbier sits on a vast, sunny plateau in the Bagnes Valley in Switzerland’s southernmost Alps. It looks toward the Combin and Mont Blanc mountains, which are covered with snow year-round, even when the town is bursting with leafy trees and flowers. At 1,500m (4,920 ft.), Verbier was a pastureland before developing into an outstanding sports center. The area is protected from harsh winds by the surrounding mountains. The predominant language of the resort is French.

Verbier doesn’t have the architectural distinction of Zermatt. Everything is modern, from souvenir shops to the fast-food joints to the chalets. But you don’t concentrate on the man-made architecture—the draw is the panoramic site of the resort itself, as its buildings are scattered over a slope of the Bagnes Valley surrounded by snow-covered mountains.

The Valais

Essentials

Getting There From the railway junction of Martigny, take the train along a secondary spur route to Le Châble. Call 0900/300-300 or see www.sbb.ch for train schedules. At Le Châble, you can transfer to a postal bus. Le Châble is also the departure point for an aerial cableway leading directly to Verbier. The cost of one-way transport on the cable car is 10F per person.

During the peak of the ski season, a consortium of hotels operates a shuttle bus that travels directly from Martigny to Verbier that’s timed to coincide with the arrival of important trains into Martigny. The one-way cost is 19F. Regrettably, it operates only during winter, and only on Friday afternoon (one bus) and on Saturday (three buses). For shuttle bus information and reservations, call 0900/300-300.

If you’re driving, take N9 as far as Martigny on the Great St. Bernard route. Turn left for Verbier at Sembrancher.

Visitor Information Some areas have no street names, so many establishments are signposted. The Verbier Tourist Office, Carrefour Central 2 ( 027/775-38-88; www.verbier.ch), dispenses information. It’s open July to August daily 8:30am to 7pm. In May and June and from September to mid-December, hours are Monday to Friday 8am to noon and 2 to 6:30pm, Saturday 9am to noon and 4 to 6:30pm, and Sunday 9am to noon. Winter hours are Monday to Friday 8am to 12:30pm and 2 to 6:30pm, Saturday 8:30am to 7pm, and Sunday 9am to noon and 3 to 6:30pm.

Skiing & Other Sports

Skiing tops the list of attractions. The area offers 306km (190 miles) of ski runs, serviced by 47 lifts. Téléverbier, a company founded in 1950, oversees one of the biggest conveyance systems in all of Switzerland. A recent addition, a heavy-duty cable car (“Le Jumbo”), whose cables are strung between the region of La Chaux and the Col des Gentianes, is the largest lift in the country.

In cooperation with neighboring regions, visitors can use their Téléverbier passes on more than 98 additional lifts in the area known as Les 4 Vallées (valleys) and L’Entremont. From Verbier, a single lift ticket can take skiers as high as 3,300m (10,824 ft.). The permit also authorizes cross-country skiing, and several circuits are possible. One goes from Verbier to Mont-Gelé, Mont-Fort, and La Chaux, and then back to Verbier. Another circuit goes from Verbier to Tortin, Mont-Fort, and La Chaux. For information on skiing in the Téléverbier network, contact Téléverbier S.A., CP 419, CH-1936 Verbier ( 027/775-25-11; www.televerbier.ch).

Throughout the winter, comprehensive passes that entitle skiers to access on all the ski lifts and slopes in the 4 Vallées region cost 134F for 2 days, 318F for 5 days, and 397F for a full week. Children ages 6 to 16 and seniors 63 or older pay only 60% of these rates. See www.esecure.ch/verbier for information on pass purchases.

The Swiss Ski School (Schweizer Schi Schule; 027/775-33-63) has 170 instructors and in winter offers group lessons daily from 9:15 to 11:45am and more individualized lessons every day in winter from 2:10 to 4:30pm. Private lessons can be arranged as well.

The inauguration of Le Centre Sportif (Verbier Polysports Center; 027/771-66-01) has greatly expanded sports offerings in all seasons. Facilities include a covered swimming pool, 10 indoor curling lanes, an indoor ice rink, 9 tennis courts, squash courts, saunas, whirlpools, a solarium, and a games area. The center, open daily 10am to 9pm, also contains a simple restaurant.

Besides sports, Verbier abounds in alpine beauty. The Haut Val de Bagnes Nature Reserve (Haut Val de Bagnes Réserve Naturelle) ★★, whose terrain can be safely visited only between mid-May and early October, has a rich variety of flora and fauna, including some rare species of plants. Botanical walks are organized in the summer; inquire at the tourist office. There’s a sweeping view of the Bagnes Valley from the Combe des Violettes. In the distance, you can see Mont-Pleureur, with Italy in the blue mist on the horizon.

There are about 21km (13 miles) of footpaths in and around Verbier that are open for hiking in summer and hiking or cross-country skiing in winter. These are carefully maintained and signposted by the municipality. A bit farther afield from Verbier, you’ll find almost 402km (250 miles) of hiking trails of varying degrees of difficulty. Maps are available (see the tourist office, under “Essentials,” above). There are usually signs posted to indicate the estimated time it takes the average hiker to reach each destination.

If you’d prefer to participate in more strenuous activities, you can try one of several alpine adventures. Trained mountain guides lead jaunts in rock climbing, mountaineering, and cliff climbing, often on excursions of 3 days or more. Call the Bureau des Guides de Verbier, a branch of the above-recommended ski school ( 027/775-33-70; www.guide-verbier.ch), or one of its competitors, La Fantastique ( 027/771-41-41; www.lafantastique.com), for more information about hiring a mountain guide.

Golf Club de Verbier ( 027/771-53-14) is an 18-hole course open from June to October. It is one of the finest in the Valais, set against a scenic alpine backdrop, at an altitude of 1,574m (5,163 ft.). In July and August, greens fees are 90F daily; otherwise, they are 65F Monday to Friday, rising to 75F Saturday and Sunday. Every hole provides stunning views of such mountain ranges as Combin, Rogneux, and even Mont-Blanc.

Shopping

Much of the merchandising that keeps Verbier’s economy pumping involves alpine sports, summer or winter, and as such, you’ll find half a dozen sporting-goods stores in town. Three of the best are Philippe Roux Sport, place Centrale ( 027/771-47-12; www.philippe-roux.ch); its nearby competitor, Médran-Sport, route de Verbier ( 027/771-60-48; www.medransports.ch); and, located close to the departure point for most of the cable cars and ski lifts, La boit’askis, rue de Médran 25 ( 027/771-34-87; www.boitaskis.com).

Where to Stay

In the peak of the winter season, hotels often require Saturday-to-Saturday bookings.

Expensive

Hôtel Les 4 Vallées ★★ The hotel stands near the main square and the Médran lift station, and was built in the early 1980s in a contemporary chalet style. Each of its often sunny rooms has pine paneling, plush carpeting, and a balcony (many of which look southward toward the mountains). A copious breakfast buffet is served in a room with large windows and paneling.

Rue de Médran, CH-1936 Verbier. www.les4vallees.com. 027/775-33-44. Fax 027/775-33-45. 20 units. Winter 295F–610F double; summer 270F–470F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 25F. Closed May–June and Sept–Nov. Amenities: Bar; free use of nearby indoor pool; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hôtel Rosalp ★★★ This is the plushest resort here, and it underwent a top-to-bottom renovation in 2007. Roger and Anita Pierroz built the Rosalp in 1945, and Anita’s cooking brought early fame to the place. But their son, Roland, put it on Europe’s gastronomic map. Today, first-class rooms and refined cuisine are available, the suites are excellent, and the small public salon is a tranquil retreat. The bedrooms are decorated with flair and filled with modern comforts. Many have dark paneling and some contain a sun deck. Suites for four contain two rooms, two bathrooms, and a private salon. The hotel has the area’s premier restaurant, Le Restaurant Pierroz (see below).

Rue de Médran, CH-1936 Verbier. 027/771-63-23. Fax 027/771-10-59. 18 units. Winter 500F–680F double, 1,200F suite for 4; summer 410F–450F double, 960F suite for 4. Rates include continental breakfast. Half board 75F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking free outside, 15F in garage. Closed May–June and Oct–Nov. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; exercise room; Jacuzzi; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hôtel Vanessa ★ One of the biggest hotels in Verbier is also one of the resort’s finest. This government-rated four-star, six-floor hotel dating from 1980 has comfortable and modern midsize rooms; most resemble suites and offer bright upholstery and balconies. The beds are exceedingly comfortable, and the maintenance is among the finest in town. Each unit is fitted with a well-maintained bathroom.

Place Centrale, CH-1936 Verbier. www.hotelvanessa.ch. 027/775-28-00. Fax 027/775-28-88. 56 units. Winter 380F–425F double, 390F–480F duplex, 490F–910F suite; summer 280F double, 315F–345F duplex, 450F–560F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. Half board 65F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15F. Closed Apr to mid-July and Sept to mid-Dec. Amenities: Restaurant; babysitting; exercise room; Jacuzzi; room service; sauna. In room: TV/DVD, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Le Chalet d’Adrien ★★★ Brigitte and Eric Cachart operate one of the most spectacular and elegant resorts in the Valais. They took an old chalet and modernized it with sensitivity. The chalet lies only 30m (98 ft.) from a lift that hauls skiers to the top of the Savoleyres pistes. Each guest has a personal changing room with heated boot benches and exclusive ski lockers. The hotel stands on a promontory overlooking the resort, and most bedrooms have a private terrace with a panoramic view of the Alps. Each luxurious room is individually decorated, but all of them have wood paneling, coordinated fabrics, and period furnishings. In the suites, a wood fire crackles in winter. With an old oven and copper cauldrons in the fireplace, the chefs turn out a superb cuisine, including hot stews, fondues (with truffles), and old-fashioned pies and tarts.

Chemin des Creux, CH-1936 Verbier. www.chalet-adrien.com. 027/771-62-00. Fax 027/771-62-24. 20 units. 510F–960F double; from 815F suite. Half board 92F per person. AE, MC, V. Closed Oct–Nov and May–June. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; room service; spa. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

The Lodge ★ An idyllic place for a holiday with family or friends, this luxury hotel is the personal statement of Sir Richard Branson of Virgin Airlines. It lies on a tranquil road just 250 meters from the Medran elevator station. A stay here is like a visit to a private chalet, complete with housekeeper, concierge, chef, and chauffeur. The Lodge operates as a conventional all-inclusive hotel from May to mid-October. Otherwise it becomes a venue for house parties the rest of the year.

The small boutique hotel can accommodate up to 18 adults, plus 6 children in a bunkroom. Rooms are beautifully decorated, even luxuriously so, and there are also two elegant suites opening onto panoramic views of the mountains. Various activities for children are available, everything from toys, books, games, even treasure hunts in the evening. Tennis, biking, swimming, and other activities can be arranged.

The on-site restaurant serves a first-rate blend of Swiss and international dishes, a full four-course gourmet meal served at night, with lighter options for children. Picnic lunches can also be packed for those exploring the mountains during the day. It’s a perfect place to unwind with Jacuzzis, a steam room, a gym, and even a treatment room.

All food and drink is included in the price, but not lift tickets or ski rentals. Bookings are only in British pounds, not Swiss francs.

Chemin de Plenadzeu 3, CH-1936 Verbier. www.thelodge.virgin.com. 027/775-22-44. 9 units. May to mid-Oct 789F (£560) double. Rates are all-inclusive. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; children’s activities; concierge; exercise room; pool (indoor); room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate

Ermitage Next to the tourist office, in the heart of the resort, this is a durable choice with comfortable beds and a welcoming family atmosphere. Rooms are midsize and tastefully furnished in a chalet style, each with private bathroom with tub or shower. The most desirable rooms open to the south with the Combins mountains in the distance; rooms on the north are less desirable, fronting the heavy traffic along the main street. Most of the rooms have twin beds, and there’s only a handful of singles. Guests gather in the lobby, where there is an Internet hookup. On the ground floor is the separately recommended Restaurant l’Ecurie (see below).

18, Carrefour Central, CH-1936 Verbier. www.ermitage-verbier.ch. 027/771-64-67. Fax 027/771-52-64. 25 units. 180F–370F double; 320F–670F family unit. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Closed mid-Sept to mid-Oct and mid-Apr to mid-May. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Wi-Fi (free, in lobby). In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Hôtel de la Poste This red-shuttered chalet on the main street near the central square has long been a family favorite. Despite its lack of special facilities or programming for children, this family-owned and -run resort stands out against the other more upscale, hotels in the market as a great spot for families. Constructed in 1955, it was rebuilt in 1962 and then drastically altered in 1980, which accounts for its present look. The small rooms are snug and comfortable with a modern alpine decor, and each comes with an adequate tiled bathroom. The hotel restaurant, La Tana, serves typical Swiss alpine cuisine.

Rue de Médran, CH-1936 Verbier. www.hotelposteverbier.ch. 027/771-66-81. Fax 027/771-34-01. 30 units. Winter 270F–454F double; summer 88F–164F per person double. Rates include half board. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Closed mid-Apr to mid-June and mid-Sept to mid-Dec. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; indoor heated pool. In room: TV, minibar.

Where to Eat

Verbier has several excellent restaurants, many serving traditional Swiss dishes and Continental cuisine. Most of the best restaurants are connected with hotels.

Expensive

Le Restaurant Pierroz ★★★ FRENCH The finest food in the Valais is served at this Relais & Châteaux selection. Roland Pierroz is one of the great chefs of Switzerland; gourmets drive across national borders to sample his cuisine. The menu changes frequently but could include roulades of carpaccio of sea bream with tomatoes en confit; fried foie gras in a beet-and-onion “cage”; red-mullet soup studded with shellfish; a divine poached chicken with truffles and baby vegetables; and tournedos of lamb with a mousseline of local potatoes (rattes), garlic, and crispy sauerkraut. The cheese trolley emerges with at least 35 selections, followed by desserts such as a crisp and tasty apple tart with ice cream that is celestial. The finest meal we’ve ever had in Switzerland was had here.

In the Hôtel Rosalp, rue de Médran. 027/771-63-23. Reservations required at least a day ahead. Main courses 45F–75F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2pm and 7–9:30pm. Closed May–June and Oct–Nov.

Moderate

Au Vieux Verbier SWISS One of the few restaurants in Verbier not affiliated with any hotel, the Old Verbier is on a hillside a few paces from the town’s ski slopes. It’s set in a building that functions as the nerve center for the surrounding hillside cable cars. Its decor features brightly polished brassware, ceiling beams, and stone. The kitchen defines its cuisine as bonne cuisine bourgeoise, which is rich, traditional, and filling, exemplified by such dishes as La Potence—a grilled steak flambéed at your table with a red-wine sauce. Grilled fish and roasted rack of lamb are among the more delectable items to order. The specialty of the house is pigs’ feet in Madeira with rösti, but it’s only served in autumn.

Gare de Médran. 027/771-16-68. Reservations required for dinner. Main courses 25F–55F; fixed-price menus (summer only) 45F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–3pm and 6:30pm–midnight. Closed early May to mid-July and Mon in summer and fall.

La Pinte ★ SWISS This is master chef Roland Pierroz’s second, more reasonably priced restaurant, on the ground floor of the Hôtel Rosalp. The 19th-century paneling is decorated with painted flowers; in the back a snug room displays hunting trophies. The cuisine features simmered and grilled specialties. A typical meal includes a to-die-for tart made with leeks or Gruyère cheese. Meats, ranging from a brochette of lamb to tournedos, are grilled over an open fire. Several regional dishes are available, including a savory sausage with lentils. Specials change daily.

In the Hôtel Rosalp, rue de Médran. 027/771-63-23. Reservations required. Main courses 34F–60F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2pm and 7–9:30pm. Closed May to mid-Dec.

Le Sonalon ★ SWISS/CONTINENTAL Some 4km (2 1/2 miles) northwest of Verbier’s center, this discovery lies near the edge of one of Verbier’s less frequently used ski slopes (la piste de Savolère). This wood-sided chalet was built in the mid-1980s and has been known as a warm, comfortable dining spot ever since. You can reach it by car, following the directions listed below, or take the cable car to the Savolère station, then trek downhill on a steeply inclined 10-minute walk. In a dining room sheathed in light-colored wood paneling, or on an outdoor terrace with panoramic views encompassing the entire village of Verbier, you’ll enjoy well-prepared meals whose gusto seems enhanced by the high altitudes. Menu items include raclette (at dinner only), several kinds of fondue, grilled lamb chops with aromatic herbs, filets of beef prepared with pepper sauce or mushrooms, and such palate-pleasing fish as pikeperch, filet of sole, and salmon. Desserts include crème brûlée, tiramisu, or a particularly succulent version of pears marinated in red wine and spices, served with cinnamon-flavored ice cream.

Rte. de la Marlenaz. 027/771-72-71. Reservations recommended. Main courses 24F–65F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2pm and 7–10pm. Closed Mon–Tues May–June and Oct–Nov. From place Centrale in Verbier, follow the signs to Savolère and Carrefour, then branch off on a dirt road signposted le sonalon.

Restaurant l’Ecurie ★ SWISS/FRENCH On the ground floor of the Ermitage (see above), this restaurant appeals to hikers in summer, skiers in winter, and expats occupying the nearby chalet clusters year-round. They come for the mountain specialties, the rustic atmosphere, the affordable regional wines, and the grilled meats done to perfection on the wood-fired grill. The cozy ambience here is especially heartwarming on a cold winter night. Many diners like the country-style section of the restaurant, with its rough wooden tables and chairs, although there is another section with more formal service at candlelit tables covered in white starched linen. The homemade pastas and Italian-inspired risottos are specialties. Fish is grilled as you like it, and scampi appears in a range of dishes along with other seafood. Another specialty is roast chicken served with crisp fries. The owners run the restaurant, with Lisette out front welcoming you, and her husband Jean-Marc (nicknamed Babouin), in the back doing the superb cooking.

Place Centrale. 027/771-27-60. Reservations recommended. Main courses 29F–58F. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 10:30am–4pm and 5:30–10pm.

Inexpensive

La Marmotte SWISS Outside Verbier in the tiny hamlet of Planards, this mountain restaurant at 1,930 meters serves one of the most authentic Swiss cuisines in the area. Rustically decorated, it is a choice of skiers in winter or mountain climbers in summer. From its terrace panoramic views open onto the Valley of the Bagnes and the Massif of Combin. The terrace is built to face the south, granting diners the longest period of sunshine. Among the classics are fondues, röstis, and even a savory platter of spaghetti.

Les Planards 6, Planards. 027/771-68-34. www.lamarmotte-verbier.com. Reservations required for dinner. Main courses 15F–32F. MC, V. Daily noon–10pm. Closed Apr–May.

Verbier After Dark

Even if you arrive during the off season when the discos are closed, you can always drink in any of the dozen or so bars and pubs. The most English of the lot is the neo-Victorian Nelson Pub, rue de Verbier ( 027/771-31-51). Look for cheeseburgers, croque-monsieur, and platters of air-dried alpine beef, along with at least 40 brands of beer from virtually everywhere. A less theme-ish, less aggressively Olde English venue is Le Crok, route des Creux ( 027/771-69-34), with tiny tables, leather-upholstered banquettes, and a modern decor. The place offers stiff drinks and frequent live music. The Bar New Club, rue de la Poste ( 027/771-22-67), re-creates the glossy, comfortable living room of an affluent bachelor, with couches perfect for conversation and comfortable drinking. Bar L’Auin, in the Hotel Rosalp, rue de Médran ( 027/771-63-23), is the most conservative, discreet, elegant, and comfortable bar in town. The fireplace here gives a warm glow.

Great St. Bernard Pass ★★★: An Easy Excursion from Verbier

Because of the danger of avalanches and road blockage, most winter drivers headed between the Valais and northern Italy travel through the 6km (4-mile) Great St. Bernard Tunnel instead of negotiating overland roads that are treacherous or impassable. In the summer, however, many visitors make the pilgrimage over the St. Bernard Pass instead, often to conclude that the drive is one of the highlights of their trip. The overland road is usually open only from mid-June to early October; its highest point lies about an hour’s drive from Martigny, 40km (25 miles) away. If you’re staying in Verbier and you’d like to visit the pass, you can drive east from Verbier along a winding road until you come to the village of Sembranchen. From here, E21 leads directly south to this historic pass. Follow the signs pointing uphill to Hospice St-Bernard. Travel time by car from Verbier is about 1 1/4 hours.

St. Bernard dogs used to be bred by Augustinian monks in one of the oldest monasteries in Europe, the Great St. Bernard Hospice, Le Grand-St-Bernard, 1946 Bourg-Saint-Pierre ( 027/787-12-36; www.gsbernard.net). Set on the Swiss side of the vertiginous Swiss-Italian border, it was founded in 1050 and was mostly rebuilt of somber-looking gray stone in the 1600s. Year-round, the hospice houses only four or five Franciscan monks, many native to the Valais, as well as monks from other parts of Europe who stay for short-term bouts of meditation and prayer. Visitors can arrive by car only between June 15 and early October; the rest of the year, all roads are snowbound and transit is possible only via special skis. (See below for details.)

The monastery shelters a treasury of religious artifacts, a museum showcasing the often-tragic history of the pass, and historic kennels that used to be devoted to the perpetuation of the bloodlines of the St. Bernard breed of dog (thanks to such modern technology as helicopters and heat sensors rendering them obsolete for search and rescue missions, the dogs are no longer kept here). During the winter, visitors are forced to make a strenuous 6km (4-mile) uphill trek, on specially accessorized skis, from a parking lot near the Swiss entrance to the St. Bernard Tunnel. Don’t even think of trying this without warning the monastery of your plans in advance, as the brothers will discourage you in the event of impending storms or avalanches. Proper equipment is required, including sealskin sheathing for your skis for traction during the uphill trek. In the event of an emergency, midwinter guests must be evacuated by snowmobile or helicopter.

In June and September, hours are daily 9am to noon and 1 to 6pm; July and August hours are daily 9am to 7pm. Admission to the public areas of the monastery and its chapel is free; admission to the museum and the former kennels costs 10F per person. The rest of the year, visits can be made only by special arrangement.

During limited warm-weather periods, you can stay in the wood-sheathed interior of the Hôtel de l’Hospice du Grand-St-Bernard, Le Grand-St-Bernard, 1946 Bourg-Saint-Pierre ( 027/787-12-36; www.hotelhospice.ch). The four-story, gray-stone building was built in 1899. It’s owned by the monastery, leased to a private entrepreneur, and contains 33 rooms. None has a TV or phone, and furnishings are simple and vaguely monastic. But views sweep out over both the Swiss and Italian Alps, and the food in the in-house restaurant is plentiful and reasonably priced. The hotel is open from early June to mid-October, when it welcomes hill climbers, nature lovers, and members of religious organizations. The rest of the year it’s locked tight, and the intrepid visitors who make the uphill trek on skis are housed, space and circumstances permitting, in the monastery itself. Per-person rates are 75F, single or double occupancy, with breakfast and dinner included. MasterCard and Visa are accepted.

Where to Stay & eat

Auberge du Vieux-Moulin This is a remote oasis. Part of a rocky hill was blasted away to make room for this small roadside inn in the hamlet of Bourg-Saint-Pierre, which lies on the way to the monastery (see above). Built in 1964 and completely renovated since, the small rooms are streamlined and comfortable, with good beds. Guests in a room without private bathroom will find clean corridor facilities. Private bathrooms are small but neat.

CH-1946 Bourg-Saint-Pierre. 027/787-11-69. Fax 027/787-11-92. 19 units, 9 with bathroom. 64F double without bathroom, 98F with bathroom. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: No phone.

Sion ★★

27km (17 miles) E of Martigny; 53km (33 miles) W of Visp

The capital of the Valais, the ancient city of Sion is known for its glorious springs and autumns and for its ancient status as a trading post on the trails between France and Italy. Dating from Roman times, the town is dominated by the silhouettes of the castles of Valère and Tourbillon. The majority of its population speaks French.

Most of the towns of the Valais are sports oriented, but Sion is one of the exceptions. Come here if you want to see a beautifully preserved old Swiss town with a lot of history and plenty of impressive walks in all directions. It’s not as tourist oriented as such cities as Verbier, and even though it’s a capital, it’s still off the beaten path for most visitors. The stone streets of the Vieille Ville (Old Town) are flanked with cafes and restaurants.

Essentials

Getting There Sion lies on the major rail lines that connect Milan and Turin (via the Simplon Tunnel) with Geneva and Paris. Trains arrive from both directions every day. Call 0900/300-300 or visit www.sbb.ch for rail schedules. If you’re driving, head east from Martigny, and from Visp go west, on E2.

Visitor Information The Sion Tourist Information Office is on place de la Planta ( 027/327-77-27; www.siontourism.ch). It’s open mid-July to mid-August Monday to Friday 8:30am to 6pm, Saturday 10am to 4pm, Sunday 9am to noon; off season, hours are Monday to Friday 8:30am to noon and 2 to 5:30pm, Saturday 9am to noon.

Attractions

Château de Tourbillon ( 027/606-47-45) is perched on a steep rock on a hill overlooking the northern periphery of the town. It’s the broodingly impressive ruin of a medieval stronghold built by a 13th-century bishop to defend Sion against the House of Savoy. Destroyed by a fire in 1788, it has never been reconstructed, but you can still make out the remains of a keep, watchtower, and chapel. There’s a panoramic view ★ of the Rhône Valley from its base, which sits at an elevation of 645m (2,116 ft.). Admission is free.

Atop the town’s other steep hill are the deeply weathered walls of an unusual Gothic church, the Eglise-Fortresse de Valère ★ (also known as the Château de Valère), whose foundations were built as a fortress by the ancient Romans. In much better shape than the previously mentioned castle, the three-aisle basilica dates from the 12th and 13th centuries. It contains 17th-century choir stalls and what has been called “the oldest playable organ in the world,” dating from the 14th century.

Valère Museum ★, in the Eglise-Fortresse de Valère ( 027/606-47-10), is in the former residence of the cathedral chapter and is now the cantonal museum of history and ethnography. It contains fine works of medieval religious art, ancient arms and armor, uniforms, Roman and Gothic chests, and interesting ethnological collections. Both the museum and the fortified church that contains it are open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to noon and 2 to 6pm (to 5pm Oct–Apr). Admission to both the church and museum costs 7F for adults and 5.50F for children 12 and under. A family pass costs 16F. Note: There’s a steep uphill climb between the parking lot and the church.

Back in town, the Hôtel de Ville (town hall), rue du Grand-Pont, whose inner chambers cannot be visited, has a facade embellished with 17th-century doors and columns. The foundations were laid by the ancient Romans in a.d. 377. On Sion’s main street, rue du Grand-Pont, is an astronomical clock.

Northeast of the Hôtel de Ville is the Cathédrale Notre-Dame-du-Glarier, 13, rue de la Cathédrale ( 027/322-80-66). It was reconstructed in the 15th century, although the original Romanesque belfry ★ remains, dating from the 11th and 13th centuries. Inside, look for the triptych in gilded wood, called The Tree of Jesse.

Although Sion has the monuments mentioned above, you can connect more intimately with regional life by taking an organized wine-tasting excursion (the tourist office—see “Visitor Information,” above—will provide details). A long marked footpath, the most impressive walk in the area, is called le chemin du vignoble, and it passes through vineyards on the outskirts of the city. Our favorite vintner is the Varone Vineyard, a centre de dégustation at 61, rue de la Blancherie ( 027/203-56-83; www.varone.ch), across the river. It is open Monday from 2 to 6:30pm, Tuesday to Friday 10am to noon and 2 to 6:30pm, and Saturday 10am to noon and 2 to 5pm. Before beginning your hike, pick up the makings of a picnic at Co-op City, place du Midi, right off avenue de la Gare.

Where to Stay

Hôtel Castel Modern and boxy, this government-rated three-star hotel is at the edge of the road to Simplon at the northeast edge of town. Built in 1968, it was recently renovated. The small rooms have modern furniture and soundproof windows, and each comes with a good bed and tidy bathroom. Many units have views of the jagged cliffs that support the medieval château.

36, rue du Scex, CH-1950 Sion. www.hotel-castel.ch. 027/322-91-71. Fax 027/322-57-24. 30 units. 130F–170F double; 175F–195F triple. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV, minibar.

Hôtel du Rhône This cinder-block hotel allows you to escape the traffic congestion of the Old City, lying at its outer border. The small rooms are furnished with angular contemporary furniture and full bathrooms. In spite of its no-frills atmosphere, the hotel is the best place to stay in town.

10, rue du Scex, CH-1950 Sion. www.bestwestern.ch/durhonesion. 800/780-7234 in the U.S., or 027/322-82-91. Fax 027/323-11-88. 45 units. 180F–210F double. Children 12 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15F. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (5F per 24 hr.).

Where to Eat

Caves de Touts-Vents SWISS/FRENCH This restaurant occupies several levels of a 13th-century cellar, whose vaultings were originally built to store wine. You descend a steep flight of stairs to reach the first room, much of which is devoted to a well-stocked bar. Claustrophobics may elect to go no farther. The lack of windows, the ancient stones, the flickering candles, and the effect of the wine work together to make the room cozy. The specialties—and good-tasting ones at that—include tagliatelle with salmon, mushrooms in puff pastry, calves’ liver with shallots, and, of course, fondue and raclette.

16, rue des Châteaux. www.cave-tous-vents.ch. 027/322-46-84. Reservations recommended. Main courses 25F–42F. AE, MC, V. Restaurant daily 7–10:30pm. Cafe and bar Tues–Sat 5pm–midnight. Closed mid-July to Aug.

La Sitterie ★ FRENCH In this restaurant with its elegant table appointments, you dine on a refined French cuisine, inspired by that country right beyond the border. Jacques Bovier is an inspired chef, turning out creative dishes based on market-fresh ingredients. Start, perhaps, with his chervil soup with hard-boiled eggs and lardoons, or else a rabbit pâté. You might follow with a spring meadow alpine lamb with fresh herbs served with an organic polenta Ticino style. Desserts are rich and luscious here, including homemade vanilla ice cream with leaves of chocolate, with a side of kirsch-laced cherries, perhaps a crème brûlée with fried strawberries.

Rue du Rawil 41. 027/203-22-12. www.lasitterie.ch. Reservations required. Main courses 24F–48F. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 11am–3pm and 6pm–midnight.

L’enclos de Valère ★★ FRENCH It’s sometimes unnerving to drive a car up the steep and narrow street leading to this restaurant, but once you reach it, you’ll find a site loaded with charm and one of the best-regarded restaurants in Sion. Located near the edge of the gardens that surround the Eglise-Fortresse de Valère, the restaurant is small and intimate, with an outdoor dining area. The dining room has a regional decor, with flagstone floors and a beamed ceiling. The menu changes monthly and may include lamb with garlic and thyme; crawfish salad; filets of perch with white-butter sauce; magret of duckling with raspberry-vinegar sauce; and an assiette Clos de Valèrie loaded with dried meats, pâtés, shredded duck meat, and salads. Dessert may include a slice of lemon tart or a crème brûlée.

18, rue des Châteaux. 027/323-32-30. www.enclosdevalere.ch. Reservations recommended. Main courses 32F–48F. DC, MC, V. Year-round Tues–Sat 9am–midnight and Sun 9am–5pm. Closed Jan–Feb 15 and Mon in Sept–Oct.

Crans-Montana ★★

14km (9 miles) N of Sierre; 21km (13 miles) E of Sion; 158km (98 miles) E of Geneva

Crans and Montana-Vermala, at 1,494m (4,900 ft.), are twin ski resorts; both are modern and fashionable and long associated with an upscale Italian clientele. Set on a handsome plateau where the air is said to be “lighter than champagne,” they enjoy excellent snowfall and views as far as the Rhône Valley. Crans, whose hotel construction began in 1912, is composed for the most part of colonies of apartments and hotels, many in the half-timbered mountain style. Montana, clustered around the shores of Lac Grenon, is the older section, begun in 1892. Connected to them both, at a slightly lower altitude, is Aminona, still an infant resort but rising rapidly.

Note that the lack of street names in many cases is confusing, although restaurants and hotels often have directional signs. It seems that all the residents want to erase the distinctions between Crans and Montana, as the resort has become virtually one over the years.

Essentials

Getting There From Geneva, take a direct train to Sierre; call 0900/300-300 for rail information. At Sierre, change to a funicular or bus, each of which charges around 13F per person each way to Crans-Montana. Call the Crans-Montana Service des Buses et Funiculaires ( 027/481-33-55; www.cie-smc.ch) for departure times.

A postal bus from Sion makes the run up the mountain to Crans-Montana.

If you’re driving, the resorts are accessible by good roads from Sion or the market town of Sierre. From Sion, take E2 east to Sierre; from here, follow the signs up the winding mountain road until you reach Crans-Montana.

Visitor Information Not all thoroughfares have street names; to find establishments that lie off the street plans, you should look for directional signs. The Tourist Information Office is at Immeuble Scandia, in Crans. In Montana, an equivalent organization is on avenue de la Gare. Both offices have the same phone number: 027/485-04-04 (www.crans-montana.ch). Hours are Monday to Friday from 8:30am to noon and 2 to 5:30pm, and Saturday from 9am to noon. During high season, it’s open till 6:30pm Monday to Friday, Saturday 9:30am to noon and 2 to 4pm, and Sunday 9am to noon.

Fun in the Outdoors

Neither resort limits its allure to wintertime diversions. During the summer, Montana tends to focus on spa cures and general health and well-being, and Crans transforms itself into a golf center. Nearby facilities include the 18-hole Plan-Bramois course, on the western outskirts of town, and the 9-hole Jack Nicklaus (formerly known as the Xires) course, on the resort’s southern perimeter. For golf information, call 027/485-97-97. The Omega European Masters, held at Crans each year in September, draws top golfers from all over the world. Tennis, hiking, and mountain climbing are the main summer sports at Crans-Montana; others include horseback riding, hiking, and fishing. Winter sports include skating, ski-bobbing, and ice-hockey matches. Skiing is available year-round.

There’s a spectacular ascent to Point Plaine-Morte ★★, at nearly 3,000m (9,840 ft.); but even at such a great height, there are still runs suitable for novice skiers. To get here, take the gondola from Montana-Barzettes to the east of Montana, stopping at Les Violettes first. There’s a restaurant at Plaine-Morte.

Cry d’Err, which looms north of the resort, rises to 2,264m (7,426 ft.) and has a large restaurant and a sunbathing terrace. To get here, take the Grand Signal gondola from Montana or the Crans-Cry d’Err gondola from Crans.

Piste Nationale is known for its steep, narrow runs, which attract many skiers. Mount Tubang, especially its La Toula run, is another slope only for the advanced skier.

All-inclusive ski passes that provide access to all the cable cars and chairlifts in the Crans-Montana district cost 139F for 2 days and 290F for 5 days. Children between the ages of 6 and 15 are charged 92F for 2 days and 182F for 5 days. A passport-size photo is required for anyone who wants to buy a ski pass. For pass information, call 027/485-89-10 or visit www.crans-montana.ch.

Shopping

The crisp air and the dozens of outdoor diversions here might inspire purchases of sporting equipment rather than kitschy souvenirs. The accessories and paraphernalia you’ll need to do anything in the Alps will jump out at you from virtually every local shop. Two of the best, however, are Alex Sports, rue du Prado, in Crans ( 027/481-40-61; www.alexsports.ch), and Ski Rinaldo, route de Rawyl, in Montana ( 027/481-89-17; www.ski-rinaldo.ch).

Where to Stay

Very Expensive

Grand Hôtel du Golf ★★★ This elegant retreat attracts the celebrity crowd and others, especially golfers, who demand the very best. Altered and rebuilt many times, it dates from 1906 when Sir Arnold Lunen first introduced golf here, attracting English visitors. In time the hotel attracted many royal families, including those from the Netherlands, Portugal, and Belgium. Today, instead of kings, you get CEOs and the like. The spacious bedrooms are elegantly furnished, tasteful, comfortable, and traditional. Each of the rooms opens onto panoramic views and contains state-of-the-art bathrooms. Soft music and an intimate atmosphere attract patrons to the Green Bar before they head for the restaurant-grill, Le Relais, offering a classical Continental cuisine, with many Swiss specialties. The hotel also has the finest recreational facilities at the resort.

CH-3963 Crans. www.grand-hotel-du-golf.ch. 027/485-42-42. Fax 027/485-42-43. 88 units. 400F–800F double, from 1,000F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Closed Apr 15–May and end of Sept to mid-Dec. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; exercise room; golf course; indoor heated pool; room service; spa. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Expensive

Aïda-Castel ★★ Known for its Valaisian decor, this government-rated four-star hotel is composed of two separate chalet-style buildings united during a series of massive renovations in the early 1990s. They lie on either side of the hotel’s driveway, connected by a quiet passageway that passes above the underground piano bar. Set midway between Montana and Crans, near the flashier Hôtel Crans-Ambassador, it offers spacious bedrooms with lots of exposed wood and small seating areas that give the fleeting impression that the rooms are equivalent to small suites. Most accommodations have private balconies, and each comes with a bathroom. This is one of the few hotels of Crans-Montana that remains open the entire year.

CH-3962 Crans-Montana. www.aida-castel.ch. 027/485-41-11. Fax 027/481-70-62. 61 units. Winter 350F–500F double; summer 270F–360F double. Rates include half board. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; outdoor pool; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (30F per 24 hr.).

Hôtel Alpina & Savoy ★ This is the oldest hotel in Crans, built in 1912. Owned by three generations of the Mudry family, it has been frequently modernized and expanded. The hotel remains consciously unfashionable but venerable, lying a short walk from the departure point for the Cry d’Err gondola. The bedrooms come in different shapes and sizes, but each is exceedingly comfortable with alpine decor, excellent plumbing, and a tidy bathroom.

Rte. touristique de Crans, CH-3963 Crans. www.alpina-savoy.ch. 027/485-09-00. Fax 027/485-09-99. 45 units. Winter 340F–450F double, 550F–850F suite; summer 200F–460F double, 400F–560F suite. Rates include half board. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 20F. Closed mid-Apr to mid-June and mid-Sept to mid-Dec. Amenities: Restaurant; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (30F per 24 hr.).

Moderate

Hôtel de la Forêt This is one of the better bargains in the area. A hotel of one kind or another has stood on this site, about half a mile east of Montana’s center, since the turn of the 20th century. Skiers appreciate the hotel’s proximity to the slopes—only 180m (590 ft.) from the cable car of Les Violettes-Plaine Morte. Alain and Serge Morard throw weekly raclette parties for their guests. The midsize bedrooms facing south have balconies and some barely perceptible noise from the road; those rooms facing north don’t have balconies and get less sun but are quiet and offer views of the forest. Each unit comes with an efficiently organized bathroom.

CH-3962 Montana. www.delaforet.ch. 027/480-21-31. Fax 027/481-31-20. 60 units. Winter 90F–200F per person double; summer 78F–175F per person double. Rates include half board. MC, V. Parking 15F. Closed mid-Apr to May and mid-Oct to mid-Dec. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer.

Le Mont-Paisible ★ In a rustic setting with panoramic views in all directions, this chalet offers private viewing balconies from all its accommodations. The rooms facing south have panoramas of the Valaisan Alps from the Simplon to Mont Blanc. Each midsize bedroom is furnished in a traditional Swiss style, with comfortable beds and private bathrooms with tub or shower. An elegant French cuisine is served in the restaurant, its windows opening onto views of the mountains. In winter, guests gather in the lounge with an open fireplace.

Rte. d’Aminona, CH-3963 Crans-Montana. www.montpaisible.ch. 027/480-21-61. Fax 027/481-77-92. 40 units. 130F–200F double. DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; outdoor tennis court (lit); Wi-Fi (free, in lobby). In room: TV.

Where to Eat

Expensive

Hostellerie du Pas de l’Ours ★★★ SWISS/FRENCH Go here for the finest cuisine served in Crans-Montana. The talented chef, Franck Reynaud, betrays his Provençal roots in many of his dishes, each based on the best shopping in any season. His foie gras is homemade, and he makes savory soups the way his grandmother did—that is, with truffles. In inland Crans, he manages to get fresh seafood and lobster, which he concocts into tempting dishes. He has a certain magic with sea bream and red mullet.

The stone in the lobby dates from the 16th century. In the lobby, you’ll also find a cozy arrangement, perhaps a table near the fireplace, which blazes in winter. The hostellerie also rents 14 well-furnished bedrooms, costing two persons 400F to 810F nightly.

14, rue du Pas de l’Ours. 027/485-93-33. www.pasdelours.ch. Dinner main courses 70F–80F; fixed-price 3-course lunch 48F–68F; fixed-price dinners 82F–125F for 5 courses, 86F–138F for 6 courses, 102F–160F for 7 courses, 112F–180F for 8 courses. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat noon–1:30pm and 7–9:30pm. Closed May–June and Nov.

Le Cervin/La Bergerie ★ SWISS/FRENCH Set in a meadow above the twin resorts, this red-shuttered, barnlike restaurant offers two different sections, both simply decorated. The more formal Le Cervin, on the street level, is a well-upholstered maison bourgeoise with lots of emphasis on the nuances of gastronomy. Here the French and Swiss specialties are likely to include salmon steak with fresh mushrooms, tournedos with onions, and salads studded with quail eggs and foie gras. La Bergerie, in the building’s basement, features la cuisine valaisanne and platters of raclettes, fondues, grilled steaks, salads, and brochettes. The daily buffet in the brasserie is especially appealing.

Quartier Vermala, Crans. 027/481-21-80. Reservations required in the evening. Le Cervin main courses 35F–65F. La Bergerie platters 32F–43F. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily noon–2:30pm and 7:30–10pm. Closed mid-Oct to mid-Dec.

Moderate

Auberge de la Diligence REGIONAL/LEBANESE This relatively inexpensive alpine tavern is on the highway beside the road leading in from Sierre. It specializes in flavor-filled combinations of cuisine from both the Valais and faraway Lebanon, whose spices and succulent flavors are much appreciated in the cold alpine air. The outdoor terrace is popular on fine days, and there’s ample parking nearby. Dishes include couscous and fondues, grilled fish and steaks, well-spiced kabobs of chicken and lamb, and a succulent platter of Lebanese appetizers.

The hotel housing the tavern maintains nine bedrooms upstairs, five with a bathroom and all with TV and phone. Each has a balcony and, although they’re larger than you might have expected, they come with almost no amenities or extra services. That fact contributes to their reasonable value at 150F for a room with a bathroom, and 110F for a room with shared facilities. Rates include buffet breakfast. Both the hotel and its restaurant are open year-round.

Quartier La Combaz, CH-3963 Crans-Montana. 027/485-99-85. Fax 027/485-99-88. www.ladiligence.ch. Reservations recommended in the evening. Main courses 22F–65F. AE, DC, MC, V. Restaurant daily 11:30am–2pm and 7–9:30pm. Cafe daily 8am–11:30pm.

Le Pavillon ★ SWISS Graced with a delightful lakeside locale—a verdant setting near the Migros grocery store in the lowlands of “downtown” Montana—and an expansive terrace, Le Pavillon is popular in both winter and summer. You can drop in for snacks and drinks at any time; at mealtimes, the chef presents a cuisine du marché, featuring fresh ingredients from the marketplace. Perfectly prepared menu items are likely to include grilled filet of lamb with Provençal sauce, magret of duckling with orange sauce, filet of beef with green peppercorns, a savory version of fondue chinoise, and trout and perch from nearby lakes. Dessert includes a sorbet valaisan, flavored with apricots and locally distilled apricot liqueur.

Montana. 027/481-24-69. Reservations recommended. Main courses 30F–55F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2pm and 7–10pm. Closed Mon–Tues in Apr–May and Oct, and 2–3 weeks in Nov.

Le Thai Restaurant ★ THAI Chef Nitaya Faust arrived in Switzerland nearly 2 decades ago, and she learned to accommodate her native cooking to European tastes. And she has succeeded brilliantly. Her food is also influenced by Chinese recipes, especially stir fries, and Indian, especially curries. Her cuisine uses fresh herbs and spices instead of dried ingredients. The array of appetizers is among the tastiest at the resort, ranging from fried shrimp wraps to a vegetable–lemon grass salad. Chicken is a special treat here, especially the red chicken curry or the chili-jam chicken. Magret duck with Thai spices is another specialty. Fish can be fried crispy Thai style, or else you can enjoy one of several beef dishes. All dishes are served with a jasmine-perfumed rice.

12, rte. du Rawyl. 027/481-82-82. www.le-thai.ch. Reservations required. Main courses 26F–47F. AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Sat noon–2:30pm and 6–10pm; Sun 6–10pm.

Crans-Montana After Dark

Here’s how the night scene works in the twin playgrounds of Montana and Crans: Head for a pub both before and after dinner. A suitably rowdy choice with a bit of flair and humor is Amadeus Pub, rue Centrale, in Crans-Montana ( 027/481-24-95). After your obligatory pints of beer, which cost around 6F each, head off to any of the resort’s discos, preferably after midnight. The best of them is Xellent Club, rue Centrale, in Crans ( 027/481-65-96). The cover is around 20F, which includes the first drink, and both mingle—in ways that can be a lot of fun—electronic dance music with bouts of folkloric evergreen.

Zermatt ★★★ & the Matterhorn ★★★

66km (41 miles) SE of Sierre; 48km (30 miles) SW of Brig; 242km (151 miles) E of Geneva

Zermatt, 1,594m (5,228 ft.) above sea level, is a small village at the base of the Matterhorn. It made its debut as a hiking and hill-climbing resort more than 150 years ago when it was discovered by English tourists. World attention was turned on the Matterhorn in the 1860s, when Edward Whymper, the English explorer and mountaineer, made a series of attempts to ascend it. Approaching the Matterhorn from the Italian side, he tried six times to climb it and failed. Then, on July 14, 1865, after changing his strategy and approaching the mountain from the Swiss side (using Zermatt as his departure point), he succeeded, and—accompanied by two of his guides—became the first person to reach the summit of the Matterhorn. During the process, however, four climbers in his team had fallen to their deaths.

Three days later, an Italian guide, Jean-Antoine Carrel, spurred on by the acclaim of Whymper’s feat, successfully made the climb from the Italian side. Since then, the Matterhorn (known as Mont Cervin to the French-speaking Swiss) still lures mountain climbers, although only a few of them attempt to reach its summit. Two of the most memorable hikes are the climb up to the Mettelhorn (3,300m/10,824 ft.) and the hike up to the Matterhorn Hut, a few thousand feet below the wind-blasted cliffs that surround the summit.

Zermatt is a world-renowned resort with many luxurious accommodations and dozens of fashionable boutiques. You can walk from one end of the town to the other in about 15 minutes, which is handy because no cars are allowed on the local streets. The town does, however, have one of the best networks of alpine cable cars, gondolas, and cog railways in Switzerland—36 of them operating in the winter and 21 in the summer. In the peak season, it’s mobbed with hundreds of tourists.

Because more snow falls on Zermatt than on many other winter resorts in Europe, high-altitude skiing—especially at the Théodul Pass—continues throughout the spring and early summer. As for winter skiing, skiers can choose between wide, gentle slopes and difficult runs only for world-class champion skiers. Zermatt’s ski school ( 027/966-24-66) offers certified instruction and mountain guides.

From Zermatt, you can take one of the grandest and most scenic train rides in Europe. The Glacier Express (www.glacierexpress.ch) might be the slowest express train in the world, taking 7 1/2 hours to pass through southeastern Switzerland, but it’s the most panoramic. A stunning feat of mountain engineering, the train begins its daily run in Zermatt, heading for the resort of St. Moritz in the Engadine. Along the way, it crosses 291 bridges and goes through 91 tunnels. Windows on the train are designed to take in these stunning mountain panoramas. There’s also a dining car on board. Make advance reservations by calling Rail Europe at 800/622-86-00, or see their website at www.raileurope.com.

Essentials

Getting There Take a train to Visp or Brig, where you can transfer to a narrow-gauge train to Zermatt. Departures are every 20 minutes daily between 6am and 11:30pm. It’s about a 4-hour trip from Geneva. For Swiss rail information, call 0900/300-300 or visit www.sbb.ch.

In addition, buses run from Visp and Brig to Täsch hourly, which is the departure point for the cog railway that ascends frequently to Zermatt. Call the tourist office (see below) for more information.

If you’re driving, head to Täsch, 4.8km (3 miles) from Zermatt, and park your car in an open lot or a garage. A rail shuttle in the center of the village will then take you to the resort for 18F per person round-trip.

Visitor Information The Zermatt Tourist Office is on Bahnhofplatz ( 027/966-81-00; www.zermatt.ch) and is open mid-June to September Monday to Saturday 8:30am to 6pm, and Sunday 8:30am to noon and 1:30 to 6pm. The rest of the year hours are Monday to Saturday 8:30am to noon and 1:30 to 6pm, and Sunday 9:30am to noon and 4 to 6pm.

Only a few of Zermatt’s streets, notably Bahnhofstrasse, have names—most don’t. To find your way around, you can rely on the dozens of signs pointing the way to the various hotels and restaurants at the resort.

Attractions

There are many diversions in Zermatt, including a popular curling center, with eight rinks, each equipped with precision-crafted curling stones. There are also two natural ice-skating rinks, unusual shops, and a variety of bars and restaurants.

Skiing & Hiking

There are a number of ski-lift passes sold in various combinations, but there isn’t much savings regardless of the plan you select. A 2-day pass covering all the lifts in the Zermatt area costs 155F, while day passes cost 80F. The one break that ski-pass holders get is free rides on the ski bus linking all ski areas. To purchase tickets, visit the tourist office (see above).

Gornergrat ★★★ Gornergrat is perched at a lofty altitude of 3,099m (10,165 ft.). To get here, take a cogwheel train, the highest open-air railway in Europe, to its terminus. En route, you’ll stop at Riffelberg, which offers a panoramic view of both the Matterhorn and Mount Rosa. The complete ride from Zermatt to Gornergrat is 76F round-trip in summer, 80F round-trip in winter. At Gornergrat, an observatory looks out on the bleak expanses of the Gorner glacier and over the heights of the Dom, which, at nearly 4,572m (14,996 ft.), is the highest mountain entirely within Switzerland.

At Gornergrat, you can take a cable car to other elevations. A two-stage cable car reaches a point near the top of the Stockhorn, at 3,407m (11,175 ft.); the cost is an additional 30F round-trip from Gornergrat.

Blauherd–Unter Rothhorn ★★ To get to Blauherd–Unter Rothorn, take a cog railway through a tunnel from Zermatt to the alpine meadows of Sunegga, and then transfer to a cable car. After changing cable cars at Blauherd (which offers many hiking and skiing options of its own), you’ll continue by cable car to the flat, rocky summit of the Unter Rothorn, where possibilities for alpine rambles or ski descents abound.

Schwarzsee-Theodul To reach Zermatt’s third major ski area, take a cable car from Zermatt to Furi-Schweigmatten (usually abbreviated to Furi). Here you’ll find a variety of cross-country skiing and hiking trails, and downhill skiing even in midsummer across the Théodul Pass and the border into Italy. In the winter, you can continue downhill on skis to the Italian ski resort of Breuil-Cervinia for lunch, on the opposite side of the Matterhorn from Zermatt. At Furi, a cable car carries you downhill to the calm waters of Schwarzsee (Black Lake) at 2,584m (8,476 ft.). Here the Schwarzseehotel ( 027/967-22-63) offers vistas plus a terrace for lunch or a drink. Some skiers depart from Schwarzsee for another series of lonely but spectacular downhill runs. The round-trip excursion from Zermatt via Furi to Schwarzsee costs 48F.

Klein Matterhorn ★★★ To reach the “Little Matterhorn” from Furi, you must take two additional cable cars (the first of which will transfer at an alpine junction named Trockenersteg) before reaching an elevator that will carry you up to one of the highest mountain terraces in the world (3,760m/12,333 ft.). If the sky is clear, you’ll be able to see both the French and the Italian Alps and breathe a rarefied air usually reserved for the hardiest of alpine climbers. The excursion to Klein Matterhorn from Zermatt costs 100F round-trip.

Shopping

Zermatt’s critics accuse it of combining a hard-nosed commercialism, shrewdly calculating the value of every snowflake, with a less harsh obsession with Swiss folklore. Consequently, the town’s main shopping thoroughfare, Bahnhofstrasse, contains branches of stores you might have expected only in much larger cities, with an emphasis on luxury goods, alpine souvenirs, and sporting goods. Ski and mountaineering equipment here tends to be state of the art. Stores selling the stuff appear virtually everywhere, but one worthwhile example is Slalom Sport, Kirchstrasse 17 ( 027/966-23-66; www.slalom-sport.ch), close to the village church. Well-recommended competitors, both on Bahnhofstrasse near the Gornergrat cable car, include Glacier Sport ( 027/967-27-19) and Bayard Sport ( 027/966-49-50; www.bayardzermatt.ch).

Local souvenirs in Zermatt include everything from the genuinely artful to the hopelessly kitschy. One outlet is WEGA, on Bahnhofplatz ( 027/967-21-66; www.wega-zermatt.ch).

Snow and ice aren’t the only things that sparkle in Zermatt, so if you’re susceptible to impulse purchases of jewelry, one of the best places to browse is Bijouterie Schindler, Bahnhofstrasse 5 ( 027/967-11-18), which stockpiles both Swiss watches and gemstones.

Where to Stay

Zermatt has something for most budgets. It contains more than 120 hotels and guesthouses, plus a growing array of private apartments and condominiums. Some hotels make arrangements to meet clients at the cog-railway station if you inform them in advance of your arrival.

Very Expensive

Grand Hotel Zermatterhof ★★★ This white-walled 1879 hotel, Zermatt’s grandest resort, pointedly refuses to imitate a chalet. Rated five stars by the Swiss government, it’s more plush and comfortable than anything in town. The bedrooms are paneled and well upholstered, with vivid colors. Alpine-style furnishings add a warm, cozy ambience, and each room is equipped with deluxe beds, plus marble and tile bathrooms boasting dual basins, robes, and heated towel racks. In summer, a carriage awaits guests at the rail station at Täsch.

Bahnhofstrasse, CH-3920 Zermatt. www.zermatt.ch/zermatterhof. 027/966-66-00. Fax 027/967-66-99. 84 units. Winter 765F–900F double, 1,340F–2,505F suite; off season 635F–720F double, 1,050F–2,085F suite. Rates include half board. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; children’s center; concierge; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor pool; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Mont Cervin Palace ★★★ This has remained one of Zermatt’s leading hotels since it was established in 1872. The rooms are often sunny and spacious, with fine craftsmanship. Units in the old quarter are more old-fashioned and still preferred by traditionalists. Accommodations in the newest wing have a restrained classic decor, and some are decorated in regional stucco along with hand-carved blond-wood pieces. You and your bags will be picked up at the rail station by a horse-drawn sleigh in the winter or by an old-fashioned horse-drawn carriage in the summer.

Bahnhofstrasse 31, CH-3920 Zermatt. www.seiler-hotels.ch. 800/223-6800 in the U.S. and Canada, or 027/966-88-88. Fax 027/966-88-99. 165 units. Winter 620F–1,000F double, from 1,050F suite; summer 415F–695F double, from 705F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed mid-Apr to mid-June and mid-Oct to end of Nov. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; exercise room; 2 heated pools (1 indoor, 1 outdoor); room service; spa. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Omnia ★★ This boutique hotel takes its name from the Latin word meaning everything. It doesn’t quite have that, but is a modern interpretation of a Swiss mountain lodge. A New York architect, Ali Tayar, blended two cultures—the architectural tradition of the Valais with furnishings inspired by handcrafted modernism. The main entrance, atop a rock in the center of the resort, is 5,411 feet above sea level. Passing through a tunnel, guests come to an elevator rising up through the rock, delivering them to the lobby.

All the accommodations, including a dozen luxurious suites, are beautifully appointed. No room is identical to the one beside it, each unit individually decorated with style. All accommodations have a balcony, most of them providing a panoramic view of the famed alpine mountains such as the Stockhorn or the Matterhorn. Special features include Turkish bath or a Finnish sauna; massages, even yoga, are also featured. There’s also a sun terrace, plus a first-class restaurant noted for its creative cuisine that pays special attention to regional dishes.

Auf dem Fels, CH-3920 Zermatt. www.the-omnia.com. 027/96671-71. 30 units. Summer: 350F–550F double, from 630F suite; winter 640F–850F double, from 930F suite. AE, MC, V. Closed in May. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; exercise room; pool (both indoor and outdoor); room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Riffelalp Resort 2222 ★★ Set within a 20-minute cog-railway ride north of Zermatt, this resort sits on sloping terrain midway up the mountain, in the midst of some of the region’s most venerated skiing. It originated in 1884, when ancestors of the present owners (the Seiler family) erected a Victorian-style summer-only hotel, which was eventually damaged in a disastrous fire in 1961. Since then, the original building (the “Nostalgia wing”) has been repaired and enlarged with a modern annex (“the Chalet”). This government-rated five-star resort offers quick access to the region’s spectacular hiking, skiing, and views. The Gornergrat cable car will carry you even higher into the Alps (all the way to the Stockhorn) if you want more altitude, or down into Zermatt if you’re looking for a rowdy good time in the town’s bars, discos, or restaurants.

Riffelalp, 3920 Zermatt. www.riffelalp.com. 027/966-05-55. Fax 027/966-05-50. 72 units. Winter 665F–1,195F double, 935F–2,560F suite; summer 425F–635F double, 710F–1,335F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast in summer, half board in winter. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed mid-Oct to mid-Dec and mid-Apr to mid-June. From Zermatt, take the Gornergrat cable car to its halfway point, Riffelalp. Amenities: 2 restaurants (1 w/outdoor terrace); bar; exercise room; Jacuzzi; 2 heated pools (1 indoor, 1 outdoor); room service; sauna. In room: TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Expensive

Hotel Butterfly This Best Western hotel lies under a peaked roof, with large windows and flower boxes. The Alps loom in the distance. The interior is warm and cozy, with arched windows, Oriental rugs, and knotty-pine furniture. Mrs. Gunda Woischnig offers small to midsize rooms with balconies facing south, all of them renovated in the late 1990s. The well-stocked hotel bar serves as an intimate rendezvous point, and a buffet breakfast is served.

CH-3920 Zermatt. www.hotelbutterflyzermatt.com. 027/966-41-66. Fax 027/966-41-65. 61 units. 190F–350F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Half board 35F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed mid-Oct to mid-Dec. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; exercise room; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Riffelberg Set in an alpine meadow 2,460m (8,069 ft.) above sea level, a 90-minute trek or a 30-minute cog-railway ride from Zermatt, this isolated hotel sits amid natural splendor in the shadow of the Matterhorn. Built in 1853 by a local clergyman and purchased by the city of Zermatt in 1873, it has served as a well-maintained hotel and restaurant ever since, with the kind of views that restore health to bodies and minds. Because of its altitude, the area gets 8 full hours of sunlight in December, and even more in midsummer. Skiing between December and April, thanks to the nearby Gornergrat cableway, is excellent. Despite several recent renovations, the Riffelberg retains a simple alpine decor in its comfortable but small bedrooms. Round-trip transit from Zermatt on the cog railway costs 80F per person, and the last train from Zermatt departs at 6pm. The Riffelsee is not far from the train stop; an ibex colony lives nearby as well.

CH-3920 Zermatt-Umgebung. www.matterhorn-group.ch. 027/966-65-00. Fax 027/966-65-05. 29 units. Winter 350F–400F double, 540F–580F quad; summer 350F double, 370F quad. Rates include half board. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed mid-Oct to mid-Dec. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; exercise room; Jacuzzi; room service; sauna; Wi-Fi (free, in lobby). In room: TV, minibar.

Hotel Walliserhof ★★ Originally a Valaisian farmhouse, this hotel is one of the most successful conversions in town. It enjoys much German patronage, ever since the German newspaper Bunte named it “Swiss Hotel of the Year” a few years back. Renovations have made it worthy of a four-star government rating. In the center of town, with its red shutters and balconies, it’s easy to spot. It offers a large terrace out front, and inside you’ll find stone fireplaces, thick walls, masonry columns, and flagstone floors. The midsize carpeted bedrooms have wooden furniture and good beds, plus neat bathrooms.

Bahnhofstrasse, CH-3920 Zermatt. www.reconline.ch/walliserhof. 027/966-65-55. Fax 027/967-65-50. 30 units. 260F–400F double; 310F–450F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; exercise room; Jacuzzi; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Romantik Hotel Julen ★★ Across the river from Zermatt’s historic cemetery, this hotel (ca. 1937), with its weathered balconies, is Zermatt’s most romantic. The midsize bedrooms are furnished in mountain-resort style with carved pine beds and ceramic-tile bathrooms. Try for one on the south side—they have balconies with views of the Matterhorn. The main dining room features French cuisine and has an ornate ceiling and paneled walls, while the publike Schäferstübli offers more informal fare in a setting of pine wood, ceiling beams, and the inevitable cowbells. The hotel has installed an entire spa, and on the third floor is a “dreamshower” (you select what you want, from warm tropical to ice-cold glacier).

CH-3920 Zermatt. www.zermatt.ch/julen. 027/966-76-00. Fax 027/966-76-76. 32 units. 177F–307F per person double; 207F–403F per person suite. Rates include half board. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; spa. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Schlosshotel Tenne ★ The chiseled stonework and baroque-style stepped roofs, coupled with the Art Nouveau decor of its bedrooms and public rooms, make this hotel a welcome change from the many chalet-style hotels that surround it. Comfort and service are key here, and you live well in alpine surroundings, with stunning views in most directions. Beds are exceedingly comfortable, and the private tiled bathrooms are of a good size. Each of its junior suites contains a whirlpool bathtub and a separate sitting room with fireplace. All south-facing rooms have private balconies.

Bahnhofplatz 18, CH-3920 Zermatt. www.schlosshotel-tenne.ch. 027/966-44-00. Fax 027/966-44-05. 38 units. Winter 320F–400F double, 440F–480F junior suite for 2; summer 230F–340F double, 340F–380F junior suite for 2. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed May and Oct–Nov. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; exercise room; Jacuzzi; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer.

Seiler Hotel Monte Rosa ★ According to Edward Whymper, the Englishman who conquered the Matterhorn, this is the best hotel at Zermatt. Of course, he made that pronouncement back in 1865. Monte Rosa has long since lost that position but still holds its own as one of the most welcoming and traditional hotels in the Valais. Located on the main street, the Monte Rosa has stone posts, lintels, and red shutters around its windows. The lounges have parquet floors, thick rugs, and crackling fireplaces; the antique armchairs are beautifully upholstered in stripes and patterns. The midsize to spacious bedrooms, decorated with Victorian prints and cabinetry, are among the most comfortable in Zermatt. Rooms facing south are the most desirable, the most expensive, and the hardest to come by. Each unit comes with a good-size, immaculately kept private bathroom.

Bahnhofstrasse 80, CH-3920 Zermatt. www.seiler-hotels.ch. 800/223-6800 in the U.S., or 027/966-03-33. Fax 027/966-03-30. 47 units. Winter 410F–850F double, 900F–2,500F suite; summer 300F–560F double, 640F–1,600F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast in summer, half board in winter. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed mid-Sept to mid-Dec. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate

Hotel Post ★ Built in 1880, and extensively rebuilt in the 1950s when American-born Karl Ivarsson and his family acquired it, this hotel is better known for its sprawling restaurant and nightlife facilities than for its bedrooms. There’s a definite Anglo influence here, not only from the Americans attracted to the place but the increasing numbers of Brits as well. The small to midsize bedrooms have unusual floor plans, deliberately mismatched pieces of antique furniture, modern plumbing, and in some cases a TV. By no means should you assume that the Hotel Post falls into the predictable mold of the typical Swiss hotel. Its clients tend to be the most iconoclastic in Zermatt, and have included many of the great names in British rock ’n’ roll, including David Bowie. Fittingly, the Post’s labyrinth of nightlife facilities are the loudest, the most irreverent, and the most fun in Zermatt.

Bahnhofstrasse, CH-3920 Zermatt. www.hotelpost.ch. 027/967-19-32. Fax 027/967-41-14. 21 units. Winter 206F–292F double, 328F–360F deluxe double; summer 199F–299F double, 299F–399F deluxe double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 5 bars; babysitting; room service; spa. In room: TV/DVD, CD player, hair dryer, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

Hotel Alphubel Located near the train station, this is a large chalet with a solid stone foundation and curved stairs leading to the entrance. The Julen family named it after a local mountaintop. The small rooms are decorated in a functional, modern style with well-maintained bathrooms. The restaurant is open for half-board guests only and serves good, moderately priced dishes.

CH-3920 Zermatt. www.zermatt.ch/alphubel. 027/967-30-03. Fax 027/967-66-84. 30 units. 148F–248F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V. Closed mid-Oct to mid-Nov. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer.

Hotel Antika ★ Set behind an attractive chalet facade, each of the bedrooms of this hotel opens onto its own covered loggia with flower boxes and wooden trim. Making use of wood furnishings, rooms have an alpine charm and cozy comfort, with excellent beds. Most offer mountain views. The interior is accented with Oriental carpets and a partial sheathing of weathered planks. A large garden behind the hotel is great for quiet contemplation of the Matterhorn.

CH-3920 Zermatt. www.antika.ch. 027/967-21-51. Fax 027/967-57-83. 28 units. Winter 127F–245F double; summer 115F–190F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed May and mid-Oct to mid-Nov. Amenities: Restaurant; Jacuzzi; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Darioli ★ This five-story, balconied hotel is on the main street near the train station. Built in 1964, the hotel was completely overhauled in 1979 and has been renovated often since. It’s one of the few hotels in Zermatt to remain open all year, although its restaurant closes in November. This is one of the best government-rated three-star hotels in town; many guests prefer it to some hotels with higher ratings. The reception area is upstairs. The hotel has Oriental rugs and an attractive wooden bar. The Darioli family offers comfortable midsize rooms with regional furniture, usually painted in vivid colors with stenciled floral patterns. Most of the rooms have private bathrooms. One of the most consistently popular restaurants in Zermatt, Le Gitan (see below), is on this hotel’s street level.

Bahnhofstrasse, CH-3920 Zermatt. www.darioli.ch. 027/967-27-48. Fax 027/967-12-37. 12 units, 8 with bathroom. 100F–210F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; room service. In room: TV (in some).

Hotel Tannenhof The hotel is located in the center of the village, just a 3-minute walk from the train station and lying just off the Bahnhofstrasse (follow the signposts onto a pathway). The atmosphere is rustic and the rooms are simple and a bit small, but the place fills up quickly in winter. The hotel has simple alpine furnishings, including good beds, along with thick, cozy rugs.

Bahnhofstrasse, CH-3920 Zermatt. www.rhone.ch/tannenhof. 027/967-31-88. Fax 027/967-21-73. 23 units, 14 with bathroom. 90F–120F double without bathroom, 110F–160F with bathroom. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Oct to mid-Dec.

Hotel Weisshorn Convenient for frugal travelers arriving at the train station, this is a bargain in this otherwise high-priced resort area. However, if you’re planning a winter visit, make reservations as far in advance as possible, as the hotel fills up quickly. You don’t get luxury here, but you’re provided with alpine comfort in a setting of low-paneled ceilings and winding staircases. The place is snug and cozy as the blizzards rage outside. The bedrooms are small but adequate, with plush comforters and, in some cases, small balconies.

Am Bach 6, CH-3920 Zermatt. www.holidaynet.ch/weisshorn. 027/967-11-12. Fax 027/967-38-39. 16 units, 7 with bathroom. 128F–166F double with bathroom, 102F–124F without bathroom. Rates include buffet breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV.

Where to Eat

Expensive

Alex Grill ★ SWISS This stylish basement restaurant is decorated with carved paneling, leaded windows, flagstone floors, bright upholstery, and rich accessories. The chefs concoct appetizing dishes based on regional and Swiss recipes prepared with market-fresh ingredients. As an appetizer, try a platter of three kinds of smoked fish or fresh Atlantic oysters. The main courses include grilled lobster, grilled salmon scallop, and giant shrimp with a chive-flavored cream sauce. The meat dishes include veal kidneys in mustard sauce, grilled rack of lamb, chicken breast filled with a salmon-and-herb mousse, and a variety of game in season.

In the Hotel Alex, Bodmenstrasse. 027/966-70-70. Reservations recommended. Main courses 42F–68F. AE, MC, V. Daily noon–2pm and 7–9:30pm. Closed May to mid-June and mid-Oct to mid-Nov.

The Grill Room/The Stübli ★ ITALIAN/SWISS In what was originally built as a farmhouse, in the heart of town, these restaurants—unlike many of their competitors—remain open every day throughout the year. The Grill Room is the more elegant of the two, serving French, German, and Italian fare. There’s an especially elegant collection of hors d’oeuvres, including smoked salmon, and main courses, such as veal cutlets and brook trout with almonds or veal piccata with risotto. The commendable regional dishes are filled with rich, subtle flavors. The less formal Stübli serves basically the same menu but concentrates on alpine Swiss specialties, such as fondues, raclettes, and grilled meats, in a cozy setting.

In the Hotel Walliserhof, Bahnhofstrasse. 027/966-65-55. Reservations recommended. Main courses 32F–53F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–2pm and 7–11pm.

Le Gitan ★ SWISS This is neither the most formal restaurant in town nor the most glamorous. Despite that, reservations during the winter ski season are sometimes booked a week in advance, and virtually everyone in town seems to pick Le Gitan as his or her favorite restaurant. Set on the street level of a well-managed three-star hotel, the interior is very cozy, with an open fireplace and room for no more than 50 diners. With a wide selection of Swiss and regional specialties available, the array of grilled meats is the house specialty. The grilled beef, veal, game, and pork dishes are all richly garnished and impressively presented. Of special note is an excellent gigot d’agneau (lamb) with garlic, and a selection of savory fondues served in the bistro in front of the restaurant.

In the Hotel Darioli, Bahnhofstrasse. 027/968-19-40. www.darioli.ch. Reservations required. Main courses 20F–48F. AE, MC, V. Daily 6:30–10pm.

Schlosshotel Tenne ★ SWISS/INTERNATIONAL In the lobby level of the previously recommended hotel of the same name, this duplex restaurant includes an upper wraparound gallery and a ceiling fresco covered with a representation of the zodiac. The kitchen continues to steer a steady course between rich, regional specialties and the subtler flavors of an international repertoire. Ingredients are first-rate, and the restaurant is known for its grill specialties. The menu may include herb-flavored shrimp soup, whole-meal noodles, roast salmon in a white-wine sauce, or rack of lamb from the grill. For dessert, try cherries flambé with a honey parfait.

In the Schlosshotel Tenne. 027/966-44-00. Reservations required in winter. Main courses 26F–63F. AE, MC, V. Daily 7–9:30pm. Closed mid-Oct to mid-Dec.

Moderate

Arvenstube SWISS/INTERNATIONAL A tempting variety of international and Swiss dishes is served in this paneled dining room with a corner bar. The chefs here continue to please visitors year after year with their skill. As an appetizer, try the assiette valaisanne, a plate of air-dried meats from the Grisons. Other specialties include riz Casimir (a curry rice dish), tournedos in a savory-mustard sauce, and sliced veal in a mushroom-cream sauce. These dishes are often served with rösti (Swiss hash browns). Trout with almonds is another favorite.

In the Hotel Pollux, Bahnhofstrasse. 027/966-40-00. Reservations recommended. Main courses 25F–68F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2pm and 6–9pm. Closed 2 or 3 weeks in Nov.

Findlerhof ★★ SWISS/ITALIAN The Findlerhof is the best mountain restaurant near Zermatt. Despite its remote location—in the small hamlet of Findeln, on a steep mountainside—the place is very popular. It has a sun terrace and a roof terrace facing the Matterhorn. Your hosts are Franz and Heidi Schwery, who offer such delights as meat and salmon carpaccio, salads laced with salmon and scampi, and excellent pasta dishes.

Findeln. 027/967-25-88. www.findlerhof.ch. Reservations required. Main courses 39F–57F. MC, V. Daily 11am–6pm. Take the Sunnegga chairlift to the 1st stop, then hike across the fields and head down the steep, winding pathway, past the plastic palm trees.

Portofino Grill INTERNATIONAL Decorated in tones of marine blue with lots of highly varnished wood, this is the most elegant of the several dining choices in the Hotel Post. A fresh antipasto buffet is laid out in what used to be a boat, and the cuisine—which some visitors consider a welcome change from a constant diet of Swiss alpine food—features seafood and Italian choices. Menu items include a selection of homemade pastas with savory sauces, and freshly prepared veal, poultry, and meat dishes. Many diners opt for a before- or after-dinner drink in the Boathouse Bar. Crafted from the cabin of a once-glamorous three-masted schooner, it seats only a dozen drinkers in cozy, knee-rubbing proximity. The spillover from the main bar moves into what’s affectionately known as “the Disaster Room,” where photos of the 20th century’s greatest marine disasters are prominently displayed.

In the Hotel Post. 027/967-19-32. Reservations recommended. Main courses 23F–48F. AE, DC, MC, V. Dec–Apr daily 7–11pm. Closed Easter–Nov.

Schäferstübli SWISS This moderately priced restaurant offers atmospheric dining amid plank-covered walls, heavy beams, flickering candles, and leaded-glass windows. If you’re not already a convert of Swiss cuisine, you may easily become one after a meal here. The house specialty is lamb, served in a variety of styles. You can also order grilled veal and beef dishes, traditionally prepared. The restaurant is part of the Romantik Hotel Julen but has its own separate entrance.

In the Romantik Hotel Julen. 027/966-76-00. Reservations required. Main courses 21F–45F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6–9:30pm. Closed May and 2 weeks in Nov.

Walliserkanne SWISS/ITALIAN This rustic family restaurant is 2 minutes from the Zermatt train station. Walliserkanne is divided into three main dining rooms and a second restaurant in the basement. The elegant rooms are large and feature paintings by local artists on the walls. The restaurant offers a delectable menu of Italian dishes such as antipasto misto della casa (variety of Italian starters), carpaccio d’agnello con rucola e parmigiano (thin slices of raw lamb served with arugula and Parmesan), or vitello tonnato (slices of roast veal with tuna fish sauce). Pizzas and pastas round out the succulent fare. The menu also offers a wide choice of desserts.

Bahnhofstrasse 32. 027/966-46-10. www.walliserkanne.ch. Reservations recommended. Main courses 23F–38F. AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2pm and 6–10pm.

Zermatt After Dark

Zermatt is known for its après-ski activities, which include tea dances, restaurants, bars, nightclubs, and discos. It has more nightclubs than any other resort in the Valais.

An Entertainment Complex

Hotel Post ( 027/967-19-31; www.hotelpost.ch; see review above), where everybody shows up after recovering from Elsie’s Irish coffee (see below), has a virtual monopoly on nightlife in Zermatt. The owner, Karl Ivarsson, an American, has gradually expanded it into one of the most complete entertainment complexes in Zermatt, with a number of restaurants and nightspots under one roof. Photographs of former guests, including famous athletes and models, are displayed under glass at the reception desk. On the way to the restaurant, in the basement, you’ll pass a series of murals telling the story of a lonely tourist looking for love in Zermatt.

Take your pick of the various venues, including the Pink Live Music Bar, open December to Easter and 1 month in summer. In winter, they import a different band every year, although there’s only a piano player in summer. The Broken Bar, located in the basement, is where the most hardened ski bums listen to hard-rock music at very high volumes, drink heavily, and generally raise hell. For hunger pangs, head for the Brown Cow at street level, a rustic room with 19th-century farm implements hanging from the ceiling. The menu includes hamburgers, goulash soup, sandwiches, and salads.

The Bar Scene

Elsie’s Bar, at Kirchplatz ( 027/967-24-31), is a small house, dating from 1879, that packs in a large crowd around 6pm. It’s comfortable, sedate, and bourgeois. Skiers show up for hot chocolate or Elsie’s famous Irish coffee. The house is on the main street, near the Zermatterhof Hotel. During the day the menu includes ham and eggs, hot dogs, and even escargots. They also serve caviar and oysters (a special luxury in this area). The cafe is open in the winter daily from 11am to 2am and in the summer daily from 4pm to 2am.

One of the most animated and energetic bars is Grampy’s Pub, Bahnhofstrasse ( 027/967-77-88), across from the Hotel Post, a pub and disco favored by the resort’s army of off-duty waiters, bartenders, chambermaids, and ski instructors. A roughly equivalent competitor is the Papperla Pub ( 027/967-40-40; www.papperlapub.ch), near the Hotel Julen, where live music produced by Swiss folk and North American country-and-western bands gets your blood pumping.

Hotels that contain relatively animated pubs include the Hotel Bristol, the Schlosshotel Tenne, and the Hotel Excelsior. The least pretentious of the lot is the Kegelstube (“Bowling Alley Bar”) in the Hotel Bristol ( 027/966-33-80), where the resort’s only bowling alley adds visual distraction to the large bar area. Upstairs, the more formal Bristol Bar has a dance floor, a fireplace, and a view of the attached restaurant. The Schlosshotel Tenne’s most appealing after-dark spot is the Bar Tenne ( 027/966-44-00), whose Art Nouveau decor is a welcome change from the relentless emphasis on Swiss chalets everywhere else. Here, near a bar that resembles an ambulatory in a monastery, and a DJ booth that might have been a church pulpit, you can relax on comfortable sofas or dance beneath the klieg lights of a circular dance floor. In the Hotel Excelsior ( 027/966-35-00), you can head for the sometimes rowdy and garrulous Ex-Bar, or seek refuge in the somewhat calmer, somewhat more upscale, winter-only Luna Bar, which is shielded from the noise nearby by thick doors and masonry walls.