Chapter 12: Lucerne & Central Switzerland

Lucerne (Lucerne in German) and its lake lie in the heart of Switzerland, where the tops of the mountains are covered with eternal snow and their sides flanked with glaciers. We’re in William Tell country now, where the seeds that led to the Swiss Confederation were sown. It was near Brunnen, in the meadow of Rutli, that the Everlasting League of 1315 was created.

Despite the presence of many small resorts in the neighborhood, Lucerne, with a population of 60,000, is the district’s largest and busiest city. The lake that nurtures it is the fourth largest in Switzerland, 39km (24 miles) long and (at its broadest) 3km (2 miles) wide. Geologists refer to it as the terminal basin for the nearby glaciers. The lake is known in German as Vierwaldstättersee and in French as the Lac des Quatre Cantons. Either way, it’s the lake of the four cantons: Lucerne, Uri, Unterwalden, and Schwyz (from which Switzerland derives its name).

Lucerne and its lake are among the most popular tourist destinations in all of Europe, attracting more than a million overnight visitors every year, plus countless more who stop by only for the day. Paddle steamers service the many cable cars and lidos (beaches) set at the edge of the water, providing sweeping views of mountains with names like Pilatus and Rigi along the way. The region is rich in panoramas, folklore, and sports such as tobogganing, skiing, hill climbing, ice-skating, and curling. The irregular geography of the brusquely vertical limestone and granite outcroppings makes the shoreline one of the most beautiful and romantic sites in Switzerland.

Lucerne ★★★

50km (31 miles) S of Zurich; 90km (56 miles) E of Bern

Lucerne is a tourist favorite partly because it embodies the storybook image of a Swiss town. Located at the north end of the Lake Lucerne and not far from Zurich and Bern, the city abounds in narrow cobblestone streets, slender spires and turrets, covered bridges, frescoed houses, and fountains. Its residents are quick to remind you you’re “never very far from the snow.” It’s a fact you can’t deny, when Mount Rigi and Mount Pilatus form the southern gate to the city, as the snowcapped Alps loom in the distance.

Essentials

Getting There Lucerne lies at the junction of four major rail lines, which connect it by fast train with every other major city in Switzerland. Travel time from Bern on one of the many express trains is 65 minutes, and from Zurich, 50 minutes. Call 0900/300-300 (www.sbb.ch) for rail schedules.

If you’re driving from Bern, take Route 10 north and east. From Zurich head south and west along E41, turning southwest and following the signs at the junction with N14.

Visitor Information The Lucerne Tourist Office is at Zentralstrasse 5 ( 041/227-17-17; www.Lucerne.org). It’s open May to October, Monday to Friday 8:30am to 6:30pm, and Saturday and Sunday 9am to 6:30pm. During November to April, hours are Monday to Friday 8:30am to 5:30pm, Saturday 9am to 5pm, and Sunday 9am to 1pm.

City Layout

Most arrivals are at the railroad station, on Bahnhofplatz, where trains pull in from Zurich and other parts of Switzerland. This train depot is on the left (south) bank of the Reuss River.

If you cross a bridge from the station square, you’ll be on the right (north) bank of the river at Schwanenplatz (Swan Square), which is the center of Lucerne. Also on the north bank of the Reuss is Altstadt (Old Town), containing many burghers’ houses with oriel windows and old squares with fountains. The only way to explore this neighborhood is on foot.

Kapellgasse is a major shopping street that leads to the Kornmarkt (Corn Market), where you’ll find the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall), dating from 1602. To the west of the Kornmarkt is the Weinmarkt (Wine Market), a lovely old square with a much-photographed fountain.

The Grand Casino Lucerne, a casino-and-restaurant complex, stands at Kurplatz on Nationalquai, the major quay of Lucerne facing the lake.

From Kurplatz, Löwenstrasse leads to Löwenplatz, site of the Panorama, a famed canvas depicting the retreat of the French army during the Franco-Prussian War (1870–71). Nearby stands the even more famous Löwendenkmal (Lion Monument). Carved directly into the rocky face of a low cliff in the heart of town, it’s Lucerne’s second-most famous attraction, surpassed in visibility only by the Kapellbrücke, the geranium-fringed covered wooden footbridge.

Getting Around

Lucerne has an efficient network of local buses, one ride on which costs from 2F to 6F, depending on the distance you ride. Buy your tickets at automatic vending machines before you board. A 24-hour ticket costs 30F. For more information about bus routes within Lucerne, call 041/369-65-65.

Bikes can be rented at the railway station for 28F per day June to September between 7am and 7:45pm daily; October to May, hours are Monday to Saturday 7am to 7:45pm, and Sunday 9:30am to 7pm. A bike trip along the north shore of Lake Lucerne can be one of the scenic highlights of a visit to central Switzerland. This trip can easily absorb a whole day (take along a picnic lunch). The tourist office will provide a map, and you can set off from the Lucerne train station heading for St. Niklausen and Kastanienbaum in the direction of Tribschen. If you have time, visit the Richard Wagner Museum. The most beautiful stretch is along the lake to Winkel-Horw beach, where you can go for a brisk lake swim if the temperature is right. The duration of this 13km (8-mile) ride, including the return to Lucerne, should take about 1 1/2 hours.

Nightlife and Entertainment

Beer lovers should seek out Rathaus Bräuerei, a tavern that brews its own refreshingly light Pilsner and a rich and malty Bockbier on-site. Or take in a show featuring folkloric Swiss entertainment like alphorns, cowbells, national costumes, and yodeling at the wood-lined Stadtkeller. Both are located in the Altstadt (Old Town). For more sophisticated entertainment, head for the Kultur und Kongress Zentrum (KKL), Lucerne’s postmodern performing arts center, known for state-of-the-art acoustics that rank among the best in the world.

Restaurants and Dining

One of the most photogenic buildings in Lucerne, the half-timbered Old Swiss House near Löwenplatz is a prime spot for traditional fare such as veal in cream sauce served over grated and fried rösti potatoes. For belly-warming dishes, the Fondue House in the Altstadt offers several meat and cheese fondues (including one with vacherin, Gruyère and garlic), as well as raclette—melted cheese over boiled potatoes, served with pickled onions and cucumbers.

Active Pursuits

In summer, head east of the city center to the Lido for a refreshing dip in Lake Lucerne. The most rewarding activity, year-round, is the walk along the Museggmauer (old city wall), running along the north side of the Altstadt. As you stroll along the walkways between the Museggtürme (its nine ancient watchtowers), you’re awarded with panoramic views of Lucerne’s rooftops, the lake, and the surrounding Alps.

Attractions

Amble across the Kapellbrücke, a charming covered footbridge over the Reuss River and the symbol of Lucerne. Admire the triangular 17th-century paintings lining its ceiling—several remain empty, a reminder of fire that destroyed part of the bridge in 1993. Next, head toward the Löwenplatz area to the Löwendenkmal (Lion Monument), a sandstone relief of a dying lion that’s an homage to Swiss soldiers who died during the French revolution.

The best panoramas are the views from any of Lucerne’s nine lookout towers, which are clustered in an orderly row within a 5-minute walk uphill and north from the center of town. Part of the old fortifications erected along the north side of the medieval sector, they were all built in a different style between 1350 and 1408. At twilight, they stand in dramatic silhouette against the sky. The nine towers are known collectively as the Museggtürme; you can climb only three of them. Admission is free, and they’re open from May until the beginning of October from noon to 8pm daily. You can also take a short walk on the old outer wall of the city.

Although our only walking tour (see below) is for the independent traveler, guided walking tours are also available; contact the tourist office (see “Visitor Information,” above) for more details. These tours cost around 18F. In summer, tours depart daily at 9:45am; in winter, tours are conducted only Wednesday and Saturday at 9:45am.

Special Events

The Lucerne Festival of Music is held from the second week of August to the second week of September. For more information, contact the Festival of Music, which also sponsors the Festival Easter Lucerne, another popular event ( 041/226-44-00; www.lucernefestival.ch). There’s also the Lucerne Piano Festival, which focuses more on classical piano music, conducted every year during a weeklong period in November.

Walking Tour Lucerne

Start: Schwanenplatz.

Finish: Kurplatz.

Time: 2 1/2 hours.

Best Times: Any sunny day.

Worst Times: Rush hours, Monday to Friday from 8 to 9am and 5 to 6pm.

The best way to see Lucerne is on foot, going along its lakeside quays, across its old squares, and through the streets of its Old Town.

Walking Tour: Lucerne

Start in the heart of Lucerne at:

1 Schwanenplatz

Translated as Swan Square, it lies on the north bank of the Reuss River and is reached by crossing the bridge, the Seebrücke, from Bahnhofplatz on the south bank, site of the train station.

Adjoining the square on the west is:

2 Kapellplatz

This is the site of St. Peter’s Church. The church, the oldest in Lucerne, was built in 1178. In the center of the square is a fountain commemorating Carnival revelry in Lucerne.

From here, continue west along a major shopping street, Kapellgasse, until you reach the:

3 Kornmarkt

This is the old Grain Exchange or Corn Market, which is today the site of the:

4 Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall)

A Renaissance building from 1602, the town hall has impressive masonry, a tremendous roof, and a tall rectangular tower. The tower is a good vantage point from which to survey the crowded market scene on Tuesday and Saturday mornings.

To the left of the town hall is the:

5 Rosengart Haus

This 17th-century building houses some Picassos from the Rosengart collection (described below). The town house is entered at Furrengasse 21.

After leaving the museum, follow Rathausquai east toward Schwanenplatz again, but only to cross the:

6 Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge)

The symbol of Lucerne, this covered wooden footbridge crosses the Reuss River, leading to the south bank. Built in 1333, the bridge is 170m (558 ft.) long and crosses the river diagonally. It’s one of the best-preserved wooden bridges in Switzerland, used originally for defense. There’s also an octagonal Wasserturm (Water Tower), used variously as a prison, a torture chamber, and an archive. The bridge was always known for its 122 paintings that hung from its arched roof. Some of them were done in 1599 by Heinrich Wagmann, illustrating the daily activities and dress of the people. The bridge was damaged in a fire in 1993 and two-thirds of the original paintings were destroyed or severely damaged. Lucerne city officials directed that copies be made. After a $2.1-million reconstruction, this landmark bridge was reopened in the spring of 1994.

You emerge onto Bahnhofstrasse; you can continue right (west) until you see the next covered bridge across the Reuss, the:

7 Spreuerbrücke (Mills Bridge)

Built in 1407 and restored in the 19th century, this wooden bridge spans an arm of the Reuss. Its gables are painted with the Dance of Death, a mural by Kaspar Meglinger dating from the 17th century. The mural commemorates a plague that swept through the city.

Cross the bridge and take a sharp right to reach:

8 Mühlenplatz (Mills Square)

This square dates from the 16th century. This was the old site of Lucerne markets.

From Mühlenplatz, walk down Kramgasse (to the east) to reach the:

9 Weinmarkt (Wine Market)

Here you’ll find a lovely old square with a fountain, west of Kornmarkt. Long ago the mystery play Confraternity of the Crown of Thorns was performed here. Among the colorful old dwellings on the square is the Müllersche Apotheke, a “drugstore” from 1530.

Directly northeast of the Weinmarkt lies:

10 Hirschenplatz (Stag Square)

Another landmark square of Lucerne, it’s filled with restored buildings, many of them with painted facades and wrought-iron signs. In 1779, Goethe stayed at the Goldener Adler, which is located here.

From Hirschenplatz, head east along Weggisgasse, which opens eventually onto Falkenplatz. From Falkenplatz, continue east along Hertensteinstrasse until you come to Löwenplatz. This is the site of:

11 Panorama

Panorama is one of the largest canvases in Europe, covering 1,009 sq. m (10,861 sq. ft.) and curving in a circle around a central platform. Painted in 1889 by Edouard Castres and contained in a round building that was designed especially for it, it depicts the bloody retreat of the French army into Switzerland during the Franco-Prussian War.

The next stop on this tour is not immediately visible from Löwenplatz, but requires a brief detour north along Denkmalstrasse. Within about a block of Löwenplatz, high above your head, you’ll see one of the most famous statues in Switzerland, the:

12 Löwendenkmal (Lion Monument)

Carved in deep relief into the sandstone cliff above the town, the monument is an allegorical reference to the bravery of the Swiss Guards who died in the Tuileries of Paris in 1792 trying to save the life and honor of Marie Antoinette. During his grand tour of Europe, Mark Twain called the “Dying Lion” of Lucerne “the saddest and most poignant piece of rock in the world.” Designed by the great Danish sculptor Bertel Thorvaldsen, the statue was dedicated in 1821.

Retrace your steps back to Löwenplatz, then head south along Löwenstrasse all the way to the lake and Kurplatz, a few steps east of Schwanenplatz, the site of the:

13 Kursaal

This spot is a casino-and-restaurant complex on Kurplatz on Nationalquai.

Above Nationalquai, view the twin towers of the Catholic:

14 Hofkirche (Collegiate Church of St. Leodegar)

Named after the patron saint of Lucerne, this is the most important church in the city. There was once a monastery at this site, but the present Gothic-Renaissance building dates from the 17th century. The interior has rich wrought-iron work, carvings, and a famous organ from 1640, with 4,950 pipes. Concerts are presented in the summer. The church also has a beautiful courtyard with arcades.

A good way to end the tour, you are now standing at:

15 Kurplatz

From here, you can take in the best view of the lake from its northern rim. You can also take steamers from this area to visit various resorts along the lake. The view from here encompasses not only the lake, but also the Alps from Rigi to Pilatus. The quays are lined with trees, hotels, and shops, ideal for exploring on foot. At the end of the promenade is the lido, called Lucerne’s “Riviera.”

Other Attractions

The Bourbaki Panorama This is the world’s best replica of a 19th-century blood bath that reinforced Switzerland’s role as a neutral (nonaligned) power, and that provided the first testing ground for the then-fledgling Red Cross. It commemorates an incident in the Franco-Prussian War (1870–71) when the defeated French forces of General Charles Bourbaki (1816–97) fled out of France into Switzerland to avoid annihilation by the Germans. In Switzerland, the starving, diseased, and disorganized French forces were disarmed by the Swiss army, then welcomed into homes throughout Switzerland for rest and recuperation from the brutal winter. Today, the event is hailed as one of the finest acts of humanitarian courage in Swiss history, and celebrated in the form of this circular painting, completed in 1881, of the bloody battlefield. Originally conceived as a Barnum & Bailey–style tourist attraction in the 19th century, the site was converted into an auto repair shop in 1925, and the painting was “shortened” in two separate incidents that ultimately removed about 3.6m (12 ft.) of gray sky from the top of the wraparound panorama. Between 1996 and 2003, the site was rebuilt, the painting cleaned, and the museum opened, with recorded narration, as a celebration of a genuinely bizarre but evocative interlude in European history. Be prepared for the recorded sounds of gunshots and cannons, dying men and horses, and a mournful but stirring account of wartime follies and heroism.

Löwenplatz 11. 041/412-30-30. www.bourbakipanorama.ch. Admission 8F adults, 7F seniors and students, 5F children 6–16, free for children 5 and under. Daily 9am–6pm. Tram: 1.

Gletschergarten (Glacier Garden) This so-called glacier garden has 32 “potholes” that were worn into the sandstone bed of an Iron Age glacier, during the era when ice covered the surface of Lake Lucerne. Discovered and cleared of their debris in 1872, the holes measure up to 9m (30 ft.) wide, and almost as deep. A museum at the site contains a famous 18th-century relief map of the Alps, prehistoric remains of plant and animal life, and a Swiss homeland museum. A 12-minute film is also shown to visitors.

Denkmalstrasse 4. 041/410-43-40. www.gletschergarten.ch. Admission 12F adults, 7F children, free for children 5 and under. Apr–Oct daily 9am–6pm; Nov–Mar daily 10am–5pm. Bus: 1.

Historisches Museum Lucerne (Museum of Swiss History) Originally conceived as an arsenal for the storage of weapons in the 1560s, this building was reconfigured as a showplace for medieval and Renaissance art and sculptures in 1983. Adjacent to the surging river that flows through the center of town, this museum celebrates the arts and crafts that emerged from central Switzerland between 1600 and 1900. One of the museum’s centerpieces is the Gothic-style stone monument that once dominated the Wienerplatz, in the town center. (What you’ll see there today is a copy.) Thanks to the solid wooden staircase that spirals its way around it, you’ll get a close-up view of the stone-carved knights and cherubs that grace its pinnacle—a view that previously was visible only to birds. Other exhibits trace the development of Lucerne beginning around 1300. The top floor of the museum is reserved for special (temporary) exhibits, such as an overview of the way 20th-century Swiss cartoons treat medieval and mystical themes.

Pfistergasse 24. 041/228-54-24. www.hmLucerne.ch. Free admission; special exhibitions 10F adults, 8F seniors, free for children 15 and under. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm. Bus: 2.

Kunstmuseum ★★ The Kunstmuseum (Fine Arts Museum) and the Neues Kunstmuseum (Modern Art Museum) have fused into a single museum of art. The fine arts collection consists primarily of Swiss art from the Renaissance to the present, with an exceptional collection of paintings from the early and high baroque periods. Highlights of the baroque collection include works by Kaspar Meglinger and Franz Ludwig Raufft. There are also remarkable portraits by 18th-century artists such as Felix Maria Diogg and Josef Reinhard. The collection is strong in 19th-century landscape painting, including works by Alexandre Calamle, Robert Zünd, and Ferdinand Hodler. More modern and more controversial works focus on the “Zurich Concrete Artists” who flourished in the 1980s and 1990s.

The modern art collection, of course, focuses on more contemporary works, most of them avant-garde. But there is also a permanent collection of works, which are rotated. Some of these go back to the 15th century.

Europaplatz 1. 041/226-78-00. www.kunstmuseumLucerne.ch. Admission 16F adults, 12F seniors, 4F–7F children 6–16. Tues–Wed 10am-8pm, Thurs–Sun 10am–5pm. Bus: 2.

Richard Wagner Museum Wagner lived here from 1866 to 1872 and composed several works, including Die Meistersinger. Located about 3km (2 miles) southeast from the city in the suburb of Tribschen, the museum contains some original scores and memorabilia, including letters and pictures. There’s an exhibit of antique musical instruments in the summer. During clement weather, some hardy souls opt to walk to this museum from the center of Lucerne, following the walkways that border the edge of the lake.

Wagnerweg 27, Tribschen. 041/360-23-70. www.richard-wagner-museum.ch. Admission 8F or free ages 15 and under. Tues–Sun 10am–noon and 2–5pm. Closed Dec to mid-Mar. In summer motorboats leave every hour from in front of the railroad station (rail passes are valid for this trip). Bus: 6, 7, or 8 to Wartegg.

Sammlung Rosengart (the Rosengart Collection) and the Picasso Museum ★★ Set within what functioned since 1924 as a regional headquarters for the Swiss National Bank, this museum combines the artworks amassed by the father-daughter art collectors Siegfried and Angela Rosengart, who presented the city of Lucerne with eight masterpieces by Picasso on its 800th anniversary (one for each century). Outstanding works include Woman and Dog Playing (1953), Woman Dressing Her Hair (1954), The Studio (1955), Rembrandtesque Figure and Cupid (1969), and a sculpture, Woman with a Hat (1961). The collection comprises well over 200 works by 23 classic modernist artists. These include 125 pieces of Paul Klee and some 50 by Pablo Picasso. Other artists represented include Bonnard, Braque, Cézanne, Chagall, Dufy, Kandinsky, Laurens, Léger, Marini, Matisse, Miró, Modigliani, Monet, Pissarro, Renoir, Rouault, Seurat, Signac, Soutine, Utrillo, and Vuillard.

In addition, the museum also displays some 200 of the most memorable photographs of David Douglas Duncan, one of the world’s great photographers, who became famous for his combat photography of World War II for Life magazine. He also took countless photographs of Picasso.

Pilatusstrasse 10. 041/220-16-60. www.rosengart.ch. Admission 18F adults, 10F students, children 7–16. Nov–Mar daily 11am–5pm; Apr–Oct daily 10am–6pm. Bus: 1.

Verkehrshaus der Schweiz (Swiss Transport Museum) ★★★ This museum is the best of its kind in Europe and the most visited museum in Lucerne. It’s located beyond the Haldenstrasse cable-car station, lying more than a mile northeast of the center and accessible via bus. All forms of transportation, old and new, are on display, including railway cars, airplanes, automobiles, ships, and spaceships. Also on display is the oldest steamboat in the country, the Riga, built in 1847. The most popular exhibition is a scale model of a Swiss railway crossing the Gotthard Pass (a dozen trains move simultaneously). Children delight in an adventure ride called the Gotthard Tunnel Show.

The Longines Planetarium is at the eastern end of the complex. Here you can experience the constellations, a solar and lunar eclipse, and simulated space travel. Also attached to the transport museum is the Hans Erni House, containing artwork by this well-known native son. The museum has an IMAX theater as well.

Lidostrasse 5. 041/370-44-44. www.verkehrshaus.ch. Admission 28F adults, 14F children 7–16. IMAX/museum combo tickets 38F adults, 24F children. Apr–Oct daily 10am–6pm; Nov–Mar daily 10am–5pm. Bus: 6 or 8.

Nearby Attractions

There are dozens of half-day and full-day excursions from Lucerne—so many that we recommend you allow at least 5 days to see the city and its environs. There are several points of interest around Lake Lucerne. Most of them can be reached by paddle steamer along the lake. While en route, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the water and mountains. Lake Lucerne (Vierwaldstättersee) winds its way 39km (24 miles) into the alpine ranges of the heart of Switzerland. Many excursions can be combined with a trip to the top of a mountain by cable car or funicular. Summer is the peak season.

Schiffahrtsgesellschaft Vierwaldstättersee (Lake Lucerne Navigation Co.; 041/367-67-67; www.lakelucerne.ch) operates a flotilla of lake steamers that chug across the surface of Lake Lucerne, much to the delight of sightseers, who appreciate the steep mountains rising on all sides. Round-trip passage from Lucerne to the lake’s most distant point, Flüelen (4-hr. round-trip) costs 100F in first class or 67F in second class, and departs from the quays opposite the Hauptbahnhof in Lucerne. In midsummer, departures begin at 9:15am and continue every hour or so throughout the day. Wherever you decide to disembark en route, find out the departure time of the last boat back to Lucerne. Usually, the last boat from Flüelen departs before 4pm. All boats have a restaurant, or at least a cafeteria, onboard.

The William Tell Express offers an opportunity to see regions of German- and Italian-speaking Switzerland in one leisurely and scenery-stuffed full-day excursion. Between May and mid-October, it transports participants, as part of a 5-hour travel experience, twice a day from Lucerne, via Lugano, to Locarno. The rest of the year, there’s only one daily departure. Begin with a 3-hour boat ride from Lucerne to the lakeside hamlet of Flüelen. From there, you’ll hop aboard a specially designed train with panoramic windows and skylights for a continuation of the trip across some of the most jagged and precipitous mountain scenery in the world. Included in the package’s one-way price of 174F per person (Lucerne to Locarno) is a simple meal, served aboard the lake steamer during the first part of the journey. Some passengers opt for an upgraded package, priced at 214F per person, each way, which features a more elaborate three-course meal aboard the boat and some touristic trinkets and souvenirs which are included in the price. Reservations, preferably finalized several days in advance, are vital. To make them, and get more information, call 041/367-67-67 or visit the website at www.wilhelmtellexpress.ch.

Shopping

Few other cities in Switzerland rely as heavily on the tourist trade as Lucerne, so you’ll be faced with a barrage of mercantilism at virtually every street corner. Most obvious of the “heavy artillery” sales involves wristwatches and folk handicrafts. The biggest jeweler in town is Bucherer, Schwanenplatz 5 ( 041/369-77-00), whose sprawling displays of luxury goods are rivaled only by the showrooms of Gübelin, Schweizerhofquai ( 041/417-00-21; www.guebelin.ch). Less consciously upscale, and more folkloric in their orientation, is the town’s main outlet for handicrafts, Casa Grande, Grendelstrasse 6 ( 041/418-60-60). Embroideries and linens for dining rooms and bedrooms are the offerings at Sturzenneger, Buobenmatt 2 ( 041/410-19-58). Some of the pieces come from Switzerland’s embroidery center of St. Gallen, others from less evocative factories in the Far East, but many are of heirloom quality.

Souvenirs of your trip to Lucerne are a lot less expensive, and a lot more workaday, at the town’s mass-market department store, Nordmann & Co., Weggisgasse 5 ( 041/419-76-99). The outlet sells housewares, clothing, school supplies, and anything you’d need to run a home. The store also has a limited collection of Swiss souvenirs. More upscale, and more specifically geared to clothing for men, women, and children, is Globus, Pilatusstrasse 4 ( 041/227-07-07; www.globus.ch).

Hofstetter & Berney, Schweizerhofquai 6 ( 041/410-31-06), features a well-rounded collection of music boxes. The staff will tell you about the differences in tones and the complexities of sounds produced by the various instruments, all of which are made in Switzerland and which contain varying numbers of musical notes. Some of them might reproduce strains from Pachelbel’s Canon, others a replica of the Austrian National Anthem.

Confiserie H & M Kurmann, Bahnhofstrasse 7 ( 041/210-19-18; www.art-confiserie-kurmann.ch), is the most distinguished pastry-and-chocolate shop in Lucerne. Many of the residents of Lucerne remember this shop from their childhoods, when its pastries and chocolates were likely served as part of their birthday parties. Today, it’s one of the few deeply entrenched big-name pastry makers in Switzerland that hasn’t set up additional branches in other parts of the country. Everything is, as you’d expect, highly caloric and highly tempting.

The richly nuanced architecture of the city itself is the backdrop for the outdoor fruit and vegetable market, conducted during spring, summer, and autumn from both banks of the river every Tuesday and Saturday from 8am to around 1pm. Between May and October, Lucerne hosts a rowdy, somewhat disorganized flea market where the contents of estate sales and whatever anyone discovered in his or her grandmother’s attic is displayed along either side of Untere Burgerstrasse. And the first Saturday of every month throughout the year, during daylight hours, artisans and craftspeople from throughout the region congregate at the Weinmarkt to display and sell their wares.

Where to Stay

Lucerne is one of the most visited cities of Switzerland, with a wide range of hotels. But they’re mostly expensive and moderate; there’s a shortage of good budget hotels. Reservations are very important in the summer, when hordes of Europeans and North Americans pour into this town.

Very Expensive

Grand Hotel National ★★★ This is a monumental landmark and the former home base of Cesar Ritz. Although tourist officials rank it behind the Schweizerhof, we appreciate its lack of stiffness. Built “in the style of the French kings,” this legend among Swiss hotels has a huge facade of gray stone, with a mansard roof and dozens of gables. Constructed in 1870, when visitors were just beginning to discover Lake Lucerne, it looks like a wing of the château at Versailles. Guests have included monarchs and diplomats from all over Europe. Between 1977 and 1980, the owner reconstructed this grand palace and installed modern conveniences. The main lobby is stately and elegant, one of the grandest in Lucerne. The predictably varied bedrooms are among the most comfortable and luxurious in the city, with thick carpets and old-fashioned charm, often with a four-poster canopied bed. Many have private balconies with a view of the lake. The bathrooms are opulent in white marble.

Haldenstrasse 4, CH-6002 Lucerne. www.national-luzern.ch. 041/419-09-09. Fax 041/419-09-10. 41 units. 370F–685F double; 710F–1,285F suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 35F. Bus: 6 or 8. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; babysitting; concierge; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Palace Hotel ★★★ For timeless opulence, this landmark hotel opened its doors in 1906, but has been sensitively modernized. The Belle Epoque pile overlooks the lake, maintaining a regal air and a formal welcome. Its architecture is characterized by two towers and a mansard roof, with the lobby decorated with high ceilings, massive chandelier, and Iconic columns. Most rooms open onto views of the lake. Each of the spacious guest rooms has an individual decor; those on the third floor are retro-modern, with a muted red-and-orange scheme that some guests have compared to a Miró painting. Deluxe fabrics, elegant materials, and warmly inviting colors are found in every bedroom, some of which are still in the classically elegant style. A Mediterranean cuisine of pungent flavors and fragrances greets diners in the hotel’s gourmet restaurant, jasper. A two-story spa features a private suite for couples who want to exfoliate together.

Haldenstrasse 10, CH-6006 Lucerne. www.palace-luzern.com. 041/416-16-16. 178 units. 580F–740F double, from 1,025F suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 2. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; concierge; exercise room; room service; spa. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Schweizerhof Lucerne ★ Although it has its admirers, this hotel is formal and opulent but a bit stiff. In our view, Grand Hotel National is just as elegant and a lot more appealing. Nonetheless, the Schweizerhof has remained a longtime favorite of many travelers ever since it opened in 1844. The Hauser family has owned this 19th-century palace since 1861 and reopened it again in 1999 following extensive remodeling and renovations. It has extended a welcome to such former guests as Napoleon III, Leo Tolstoy, Richard Wagner, and Mark Twain. It consists of three symmetrical white buildings connected by arched passageways lining the lake for at least 2 blocks; one of the buildings is rented as office space. The lobby has pink marble columns and pilasters and a cream-colored ceiling with plaster details. The Belle Epoque–style bedrooms are spacious and well furnished, and have well-maintained bathrooms. Try for a room, if possible, with a view of Lake Lucerne and the surrounding alpine range.

Schweizerhofquai 3, CH-6002 Lucerne. www.schweizerhof-luzern.ch. 041/410-04-10. Fax 041/410-29-71. 107 units. Apr–Oct 440F–600F double, 680F–880F suite; Nov–Mar 360F–520F double, 600F–800F suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 30F in garage. Bus: 1 or 24. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; exercise room; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (5F per 24 hr.).

Expensive

Art Deco Hotel Montana ★★ This is one of the best government-rated four-star hotels in central Switzerland. This neoclassical hotel was originally built in 1911 as a private villa high on a hillside overlooking the lake. In the 1960s, a modern extension was added with cozy bedrooms, most of which offer views. A private funicular, departing from a point near the edge of the lake, carries clients of the hotel or its restaurants uphill to the hotel’s entrance. The interior public rooms would please your Victorian great-great-grandmother, with their old-fashioned appeal of Oriental rugs, swag curtains, brocaded antique chairs and settees, and polished paneling, along with a good infusion of Art Deco styling. The bedrooms, however, are modernized, although with traditional styling, and are comfortable with firm beds and neatly kept bathrooms.

Adligenswilerstrasse 22, CH-6002 Lucerne. www.hotel-montana.ch. 0800/55-23-44 in the U.S., or 041/419-00-00. Fax 041/419-00-01. 62 units. 250F–560F double; from 680F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 6 or 8. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; bikes; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

The Hotel ★★★ In a panoramic setting in the center of the city, this is a small-scale but particularly luxurious and trend-conscious boutique hotel, the most exclusive of its kind in Lucerne. Famed French architect Jean Nouvel designed it. Although familiar to London, this type of urban boutique hotel is new to Switzerland. Called simply “the Hotel,” it is luxury personified, yet there is an artful simplicity to it. From the custom-designed furnishings in wood and steel to the luscious, avant-garde cinema scenes on the guest-room ceilings, every aspect of the hotel reflects Nouvel’s unique touch. Some two dozen studios and suites are spread across the seven-story building. Preferred are five corner junior suites with park views on both sides. Other options include garden and park luxe suites with patios, and luxe studios with park views. Nouvele achieves his dream of “combining spirituality with elegance into a timeless design—not a matter of decor but of lifestyle.”

Sempacherstrasse 14, CH-6002 Lucerne. www.the-hotel.ch. 041/226-86-86. Fax 041/226-86-90. 25 units. 370F–430F double; from 490F suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 35F. Bus: 1 or 2. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; room service. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Des Balances ★ This tranquil government-rated “four-star superior” hotel, directly on the Reuss River, also faces the most colorful square in town, an 8-minute walk from the rail station. The elaborate gray-stone building has lots of curlicue wrought-iron balconies; the interior has high ceilings and Oriental rugs. Following massive renovations to both its interior and its facade, the hotel has emerged as one of the finest in its price range in Lucerne, and frankly, as one of our favorites. Your room, likely to be decorated in high-tech Italian-derived modern style following a major renovation, with a freshly tiled bathroom, will open either onto a picture-postcard view of the river or (if in the rear) the historic Weinmarkt. If you’re seeking a room in Altstadt, make it the Balances. Guests are permitted to drive to the hotel even though it lies in a pedestrian zone.

Weinmarkt, CH-6000 Lucerne. www.balances.ch. 041/418-28-28. Fax 041/418-28-38. 57 units. Apr–Oct 430F double, 630F suite; off season 350F double, 490F suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 27F. Bus: 1, 6, or 8. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Hermitage ★ In 1990, a run-down older hotel was demolished and in its place arose this modern lakeside building with its own private beach, some 4km (2 1/2 miles) east of the center of town. The Hermitage’s pink-painted walls contain spacious doubles and junior suites. Each unit has a lakefront view, a private balcony, and a tastefully modern design featuring rattan furniture, a minimalist decor, and parquet floors. The hotel (rated four stars by the Swiss government) has a cafe-terrace beside the water.

Seeburgstrasse 72, CH-6006 Lucerne-Seeburg. www.hotel-hermitage.ch. 041/375-81-81. Fax 041/375-81-82. 50 units. May–Sept 390F–430F double, 460F junior suite; Oct–Apr 280F–310F double, 330F junior suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Bus: 24. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; bikes; exercise room; room service; sauna; outdoor tennis court (lit). In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Krone Despite the lushly baroque facade of this middle-bracket hotel, its bedrooms are simple, well organized, and contemporary looking. This is the result of a radical renovation in the early 1990s that ripped apart the interior of the five-story building. The Hotel Krone is solidly positioned on one of the Old Town’s most charming medieval squares, in a neighborhood that shows off antique Lucerne’s architectural personality. Bedrooms in back are slightly bigger than those overlooking the Weinmarkt in front, which have better views and a more intense sense of history. Each unit comes with a neatly kept private bathroom; the third floor is for nonsmoking guests. Don’t expect a deeply entrenched sense of luxury, or even a particularly large or opulent-looking lobby: In this case, the space was devoted instead to accommodations.

Weinmarkt 12, CH-6004 Lucerne. www.bestwestern.ch/kroneluzern. 800/528-1234 in the U.S., or 041/419-44-00. Fax 041/419-44-90. 25 units. 320F–480F double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 27F. Bus: 1 or 2. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Monopol ★ Built in 1898, this grand hotel has a carved limestone facade, wrought-iron balconies, half columns, and elaborately detailed windows. Its central location is convenient for the rail station or the lake. The midsize rooms are individually furnished; some are modern and others have paneling, alcove beds, and chalet chairs. All come equipped with tidy bathrooms.

Pilatusstrasse 1, CH-6002 Lucerne. www.monopolluzern.ch. 041/226-43-43. Fax 041/226-43-44. 73 units. Apr–Oct 360F double; Nov–Mar 290F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 1. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Radisson BLU ★ One of the better members of this chain has opened on a back street near the railroad yards. Spacious and stylish, it has done much to relieve the hotel shortage that often occurs in summer. Rooms are the latest in design and comfort—cool, contemporary, and inviting, many with views over Lake Lucerne. If your room doesn’t have a view of the lake, it will overlook distant mountain instead.

Accommodations come in three different designs, labeled “urban,” “resort,” or “lifestyle.” If the hotel isn’t full, you can view pictures of the rooms and make a choice. The hotel is filled with lots of modern touches such as flatscreen TVs and sleek, streamlined furnishings. The breakfast buffet is one of the most generous in town. You can dine at the light, airy Luce, a gourmet restaurant with a pan-Mediterranean cuisine. In summer, diners can eat alfresco on the patio.

Inseliquai 12, CH-6005 Lucerne. www.radissonsas.com. 041/369-90-00. Fax 041/369-90-01. 189 units. 230F–350F double, 400F business class double. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 2. Amenities: Restaurant; wine lounge; bar; concierge; exercise room; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate

Flora ★ Lying within a short walk of the Kapllebrücke, this hotel is ideally situated near the lake. It receives both business travelers and vacationers with equal efficiency, presenting a series of comfortably furnished and well-kept bedrooms. Sometimes it’s the little extras that count here, including an optional child’s bed, windows that can be open to take in the bracing air, cosmetic mirrors, or both cable or pay TV. Of the bedrooms, 16 are rated deluxe. Families who need to overflow into another bedroom can sometimes rent a connecting room.

Seidenhofstrasse 5, CH-6002 Lucerne. www.flora-hotel.ch. 041/227-66-66. Fax 041/227-66-77. 161 units. 240F–410F double. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 1 or 2. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; bikes; concierge; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Grand Hotel Europe A neoclassical pediment graces the white facade of this 19th-century, government-rated four-star hotel lying 1.5km (1 mile) east of the center, on a hillside above the north shore of the lake. There’s a row of awnings sheltering the public rooms, which face a garden. The salons contain large tapestries, Oriental rugs, and comfortable couches and chairs. Most of the rooms are spacious and well furnished, each with a firm bed and well-maintained plumbing.

Haldenstrasse 59, CH-6002 Lucerne. www.europe-luzern.ch. 041/370-00-11. Fax 041/370-10-31. 180 units. 300F–450F double; 450F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Closed Nov–Mar. Bus: 2. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (5F per 30 min.).

Hotel Astoria ★ This first-class modern hotel boasts prominent horizontal rows of windows and a desirable location in the center of Lucerne, a 5-minute walk from the lake. The hotel is often patronized by business travelers and groups drawn to its modern, streamlined, and no-nonsense atmosphere. Well maintained and well respected, this hotel was built in three separate phases: Its main core dates from 1957, and two separate enlargements were added to the hotel’s (quieter and calmer) back side in the mid-1970s and again in 1998. On-site is a hugely popular and trendy club and disco on the upper floor called the Penthouse. The subdued interior of the hotel is decorated with furniture and accessories evocative of Thailand. Each of the well-furnished rooms has a firm bed and a well-maintained bathroom.

Pilatusstrasse 29, CH-6003 Lucerne. www.astoria-luzern.ch. 041/226-88-88. Fax 041/226-88-90. 180 units. 270F–400F double; 460F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 35F. Bus: 1. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; babysitting; exercise room; room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel des Alpes Set in Lucerne’s historic core, this unpretentious, government-rated three-star hotel lies in the pedestrian zone. It was originally built around 1740 as an inn for travelers. Today, behind a tall and narrow facade with restrained baroque detailing, it continues to welcome visitors into its premises. Although the public rooms retain their old-fashioned charm, most of the midsize bedrooms have been streamlined and filled with vinyl and laminated pieces in the roadside-motel tradition. Rooms in the rear open onto Altstadt, and those on the upper floors sometimes have views over the low skyline of Lucerne.

Though parking is not available on the premises, guests can leave their cars across the river at the railway station, a 5-minute walk from the hotel.

Furrengasse 3, CH-6004 Lucerne. www.desalpes-luzern.ch. 041/417-20-60. Fax 041/417-20-66. 45 units. 205F–254F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 1, 2, 6, 7, or 8. Amenities: 2 restaurants; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Zum Rebstock ★ This is a historic landmark with many loyal fans. The foundations of this hotel date from the 12th century, when the site, west of the Hofkirche and south of the Panorama, was the setting for a monastery. Surrounded by vineyards, the half-timbered building has green shutters with a brown-tile roof. In 1443, it was the headquarters of the winegrowers’ guild; later it was used as a recruitment center for the Swiss mercenaries who came from this region. The rooms are small but cozily comfortable, each outfitted in a different color and decorative motif. The inn offers two restaurants serving both Swiss regional dishes and international platters.

Sankt Leodegarstrasse 3, CH-6006 Lucerne. www.hereweare.ch. 041/417-18-19. Fax 041/410-39-17. 30 units. 229F–310F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 18F. Bus: 1, 2, or 7. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Magic Hotel Centrally located in Lucerne, but with a venue that requires a check-in at the reception desk of the nearby Hotel Krone (see above), this hotel offers unique and often amusingly decorated bedrooms. Each room and suite is individually decorated so that no two rooms are alike and you can choose one that fits your personality and taste. The Angel Suite has a Victorian-era elegance, while the Lotus Room utilizes Asian influences and art. Some of the rooms go a little over the top with the decor, such as the tacky Egyptian Suite, which has a large mural of a pharaoh and his two servants over the bed. The Pirate Suite is over the top in a fun way, with the bed in the shape of a ship and a statue of a pirate. Kids would enjoy both rooms but adults might find them a bit garish and tawdry. Rooms with a more tasteful decor are the Swiss Chalet and the Lion-Heart Suite.

Brandgässli 1. CH-6004 Lucerne. www.magic-hotel.ch. 041/417-12-20. Fax 041/417-12-21. 13 units. 230F–320F double; 450F–470F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking nearby 27F. Bus: 1 or 2. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Renaissance Lucerne Hotel ★ Although it’s surrounded by other antique buildings near the railway station, this Marriott chain member stands out with its 19th-century details and colorful awnings above the entrance. It’s favored by business travelers who want to be in the commercial center of town, close to the railway station. This hotel offers tastefully furnished rooms decorated in a contemporary style with warm tones and ornamental ceiling decorations. Each midsize room in this comfortable hotel is different; the most modern are on the fifth and sixth floors, while the more traditional fill the lower levels. The front rooms can be noisy at times. Many nonresidents patronize the hotel’s drinking and eating facilities.

Pilatusstrasse 15, CH-6002 Lucerne. www.marriott.com. 041/226-87-87. Fax 041/227-87-90. 86 units. 325F–460F double, from 515F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 1. Parking 30F. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; exercise room. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, MP3 docking station, Wi-Fi (25F daily).

Romantik Hotel Wilden Mann ★★ This is the best choice for the nostalgia buff. Around 1900, a local entrepreneur, operating from the core of an early-16th-century tavern in the heart of the Old Town, began slowly but systematically buying up the historic real estate around him. The result you’ll see today incorporates seven antique houses—the oldest dating from 1517—into a well-orchestrated whole. Inside, a confusing but charming labyrinth of hallways, many accented with exposed stone and beams, and, in some cases, with artfully old-fashioned paneling, lead to the cozy bedrooms. Here, warm colors and a sense of yesteryear combine with modern extras for winning four-star comforts.

Even if you don’t stay here, consider a meal in the artfully rustic dining room (see Wilden Mann Stübe/Burgerstübe, below).

Bahnhofstrasse 30, CH-6007 Lucerne. www.wilden-mann.ch. 041/210-16-66. Fax 041/210-16-29. 50 units. 270F–425F double; 360F–490F junior suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 2. Amenities: 2 restaurants; babysitting; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (10F per hr.).

Inexpensive

Hotel Alpha This severe-looking, white-fronted building is a 10-minute walk from the city center and rail station, near Pilatusplatz. Renovated many times since its original construction, it’s one of the simplest hotels in town, offering well-scrubbed but small bedrooms with few extras and modest furnishings, although the mattresses are firm. Those units containing private bathrooms are in most cases equipped with tub/shower combinations. On the premises are two lounges, each with a TV set and a collection of newspapers.

Zähringerstrasse 24, CH-6003 Lucerne. www.hotelalpha.ch. 041/240-42-80. Fax 041/240-91-31. 45 units, 10 with bathroom. 102F–110F double without bathroom, 135F–150F with bathroom; 145F–160F triple without bathroom. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Bus: 1 or 2 to Pilatusplatz. Parking 10F. Amenities: Bikes. In room: Wi-Fi (10F per 24 hr.).

Pension Villa Maria ★ Set in a charming garden near the north shore of the lake, this family-run villa was built in 1955 and is today owned by members of the Winkler family. Part of the experience is the welcome they offer in this chalet-inspired private home with comfortably cluttered public rooms decorated in shades of red, gold, and pink. The rooms—all doubles—are clean, spacious, and comfortable with excellent beds. The establishment is located about half a mile from the center of Lucerne.

Haldenstrasse 36, CH-6002 Lucerne. /fax 041/370-21-19. 14 units, 10 with bathroom. 135F–170F double without bathroom, 165F with bathroom. Additional bed in room 35F extra. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Closed Nov–Feb. Bus: 6. Amenities: Babysitting; room service. In room: Hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Tourist Hotel This budget hotel with a sage-green facade stands beside the river, a 10-minute walk from the train station. The hotel attracts young people and families to its rooms. Nine conventional units can accommodate up to four beds, and communal dormitory-style rooms are also available that contain between 4 and 10 beds each, usually stacked as bunk beds. The furnishings are in a basic, functional modern style. Many of the rooms open onto a view of the river and the faraway mountains of Pilatus and Titlis. Rooms with private bathrooms have clean quarters and mostly contain tub/shower combinations. All units have hot and cold running water. There’s a dining room as well as a lounge on the premises. Because the hotel lies in a pedestrian zone, it’s hard to find parking.

St. Karliquai 12, CH-6004 Lucerne. www.touristhotel.ch. 041/410-24-74. Fax 041/410-84-14. 40 units, 8 with bathroom; 28 dormitory beds. 88F–120F double without bathroom, 110F–220F with bathroom; 129F–144F triple without bathroom, 150F–232F with bathroom; 172F–190F quad without bathroom, 200F–274F with bathroom; 38F–45F per person dorm bed. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V. Bus: 9. Parking 15F. Amenities: Wi-Fi (free, in lobby). In room: TV, hair dryer, no phone.

Where to Eat

Lucerne has some of the finest restaurants in Switzerland, in a wide range of prices, so don’t confine yourself to your hotel at mealtime.

Expensive

China Restaurant Li-Tai-Pe ★ CHINESE This long-standing Chinese restaurant was founded in 1965 by “grande dame” Margaret Chi Tsun, whose late husband was once an aide to General Chiang Kai-shek. After Chi Tsun’s death in 2002, the restaurant is now run by her daughter, Greta Chi. Although fickle fame has passed on, the restaurant is still here and serving many of the same excellent dishes it always did. Located on a narrow street in the Old Town, the restaurant has two levels and is decorated with Asian artifacts and somber lighting. Many sweet-and-sour dishes are offered, such as codfish, pork, or crispy chicken. Two especially good dishes are chicken Kung Bao (made with peanuts and chili) and stewed beef with crispy rice. Boaling are dumplings with different fillings, a choice appetizer. You may also begin with egg-blossom soup, to be followed by beef with tomatoes or chicken with green peppers.

Furrengasse 14. 041/410-10-23. www.litaipe.ch. Reservations recommended. Main courses 28F–49F; fixed-price lunch 20F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2pm and 6–11pm. Bus: 1 or 2.

Des Balances ★★ SWISS/INTERNATIONAL At this also-recommended hotel in Altstadt, opening onto the historic Weinmarkt, is one of the city’s exceptional restaurants. The building housing it was the town jail back in 1369, but it was converted into a restaurant in 1519. Its terrace, with a view of the river Reuss, is one of the most hotly contested seats in town on a balmy summer night.

The decor is a stylish combination of medieval masonry, 19th-century wrought iron, and postmodern, high-tech lighting. The menu is divided into conservative and modern cuisine, both of them very successful. Modern dishes include grilled filet of salmon with a basil and lime sauce served with chili pepper; fresh basil-studded ravioli with black olives, Parmesan, and pepperoni; and braised filet of zander with coconut-and-chili sauce, Asian vegetables, and roasted sesame. More conservative and traditional dishes include calves’ liver with balsamic vinegar and rösti, grilled filets of veal with an herb-flavored cream sauce, and freshwater crabs grilled with feta cheese and marinated herbs.

In the Hotel des Balances, Weinmarkt. 041/418-28-28. Reservations required. Main courses 32F–63F; fixed-price dinner 105F–135F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7–11pm. Bus: 1 or 2.

Jasper ★★★ INTERNATIONAL/SWISS In the Hotel Palace, the most refined cuisine in Lucerne is created. Against a backdrop of service and a luxurious ambience, exquisite platters arrive at your table. Market-fresh ingredients are selected with pride by the chef, who proceeds to concoct them into sublime dishes. The cuisine is sensitively prepared and imaginative, beginning with such starters as a tomato mousse with eggplant (aubergine) caviar or a tuna carpaccio marinated with poppy seeds and served with sautéed scallops. For a main, expect such light but full-flavored dishes as slightly smoked sea bass filet with eggplant gnocchi; or filet of Pata Negra pork with portobello mushrooms and a Parmesan gnocchi.

In the Hotel Palace, Holdenstrasse 10. 041/416-16-16. www.palace-luzern.ch. Reservations required. Main courses 42F–59F. AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Mon noon–2pm and 7–10pm. Bus: 1 or 2.

Old Swiss House ★ SWISS/FRENCH This half-timbered building near the Lion Monument is one of the most photographed attractions in the area. This crowd pleaser—often filled with groups—is a mandatory stopover on a dining tour of Lucerne and has been since it started attracting a horde of British visitors in 1859. To its credit, it has endured and outlasted everything else, with the food remaining good. The restaurant is decorated in 17th-century style, with porcelain and antique glass, hand-carved oak doors, wooden stairways, leaded- and stained-glass windows with heraldic panes from 1575, antique silver, and old pewter. The house has a long bar near the entry and a dining room downstairs. In fair weather, you can have lunch on the terrace.

One of the dishes this place does best is an elegant version of Wiener schnitzel—a bestseller here for more than 40 years—that’s pan-fried aboard a trolley that’s wheeled alongside your table. Freshwater fish (fera, omble chevalier, pikeperch) from the nearby lake are excellent too, as well as turbot meunière, filet of beef stroganoff, calves’ liver, roasted rack of baby lamb from Scotland, and sliced veal in cream sauce.

Löwenplatz 4. 041/410-61-71. www.oldswisshouse.ch. Reservations recommended. Main courses 22F–55F lunch, 35F–66F dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–12:30am. Closed 3 weeks in Feb. Bus: 1.

Moderate

Fondue House SWISS It’s paneled, it’s cozy, and the smells of melted cheese that waft onto the pavement outside are its best advertisement. Come here for raclettes, served in individual portions with a mixture of Gruyère and vacherin cheese, with garlic; and at least three different kinds of meat or cheese fondues, all served amidst flickering candles and a cozy kind of high-alpine claustrophobia. You’ll find it on a narrow street in the heart of the Old Town, with scorch marks on some of the walls from earlier fondue parties, presumably gone bad.

Eisengasse 15. 041/412-37-37. www.fondue-house.ch. Main courses 17F–76F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm. Bus: 1 or 2.

Hofstube ★ SWISS/FRENCH This flourishing restaurant is in the Hotel Zum Rebstock, next to a building used as a guildhall for Lucerne winegrowers in the Middle Ages. The 1920s-style entrance hall is filled with valuable Art Deco pieces. This is a historic Swiss-style restaurant, with two dining rooms, both folkloric and charming. The older is the Hofstube; the slightly newer dining area is the Hofegge, which is the site of an elaborate Sunday brunch from 7am to 3pm. Beyond the dining area is a large, illuminated courtyard, where additional tables are set up on warm summer nights. The menu, a classic blend of Swiss and French traditions, usually includes an impressive array of terrines, delicious lake trout, suckling veal with spinach, filet of pork and beef in a cognac sauce, and veal and sultanas in puff pastry.

In the Hotel Zum Rebstock, Sankt-Leodegar-Platz 3. 041/410-35-81. Reservations recommended. Main courses 19F–49F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–midnight. Bus: 1, 2, 5, or 7.

La Bonne Cave SWISS/ITALIAN At least some of the charm of this place involves its emphasis on wine, rather than on beer, as is the case with many of its nearby competitors. Set under the medieval stone vaulting of a building in the Old Town, directly beside the river, it offers more than 140 vintages of wine—many of them Swiss, French, or Italian, displayed on wooden racks above a cobble-covered floor. You can always select a bottle from the wine shop here, which will be uncorked in the restaurant and served without any supplemental fees, at prices less than you might expect. But if you want a broad-based exposure to as many wines as possible, consider several glasses of different vintages. Wine is king, but the kitchen also turns out plates of good food. Menu items include platters of either Italian antipasti or an assortment of Swiss cheese, shrimp marinated in olive oil, beefsteak tartare, and platters of air-dried alpine beef.

Rathausquai 1. 041/410-45-16. Reservations not necessary. Salads 15F–22F; main courses 20F–35F; wines 8F–12F per glass. AE, MC, V. Bar and wine shop daily 10am–midnight; food daily 10am–10:30pm. Bus: 1 or 2.

Restaurant Fritschi SWISS/INTERNATIONAL There’s absolutely nothing pretentious about this beer hall/brasserie, where clients have been soaking up suds and enjoying filling platters of traditional food since 1602. The building that contains it has an outrageously colorful replica of a medieval fresco on its facade, and an interior pair of dining rooms, one of which contains a bar, and both of which are sheathed in richly intricate marquetry. Menu items—all familiar to your Swiss great-grandmother—include four kinds of pork schnitzel; entrecôte of beef; sliced veal with a mushroom-flavored cream sauce; sliced veal with morels; and ostrich steak. There is also a selection of fondues, any of which seem to taste better during cold weather.

Sternenplatz 5. 041/410-16-15. Reservations recommended. Main courses 25F–49F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm. Bus: 1 or 2.

Wilden Mann Stübe/Burgerstübe ★ SWISS/CONTINENTAL The Burgerstübe, the older of the two dining rooms, dates from at least 1517. Set on the ground floor of the Romantik Hotel, both dining rooms have carefully maintained paneling and antique touches that include coffered ceilings painted with the coats of arms of each of Lucerne’s leading families. The restaurant is smoke-free. The food items are rich and succulent, often inspired by the tastes of old Switzerland. Examples include Wildermann pastete, crafted from filet of beef cooked in its own juices and encased in puff pastry; Küglipastete, a shank of veal in a cream sauce with mushrooms in a puff-pastry cone with peas and carrots; hashed Zurich-style veal served with rösti; and breast of veal cooked Lucerne style, with a cream-based kidney sauce. More conventional menu items include chateaubriands, steaks, and roast rack of lamb with rosemary sauce. In midsummer, seating expands onto a flowering outdoor terrace overlooking one of the Old Town’s historic squares.

In the Romantik Hotel Wilden Mann, Bahnhofstrasse 30. 041/210-16-66. Reservations recommended. Main courses 24F–41F; 4-course fixed-price menu 82F, 5 courses 96F, 6 courses 110F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2pm and 6–9:30pm. Closed 2 weeks in July. Bus: 2.

Inexpensive

Rathaus Brauerei Restaurant SWISS This is one of the few establishments in Lucerne that brews its beer on-site. They usually include at least four, whose individual characteristics vary according to the season, but which will usually feature the most popular brand, Rathaus Bier, a blond lager that’s available year-round; a wheat beer; a dark beer known as dunkel; and the heaviest, darkest, and strongest of all, bok. It’s located under the arcades of the riverfront promenade, close to the northern terminus of the city’s well-known covered bridge, immediately beneath the exhibitions of the Picasso Museum. You can dine in the open air, or head inside to a series of medieval vaults that shelter the polished copper of the fermentation vats. Menu items reflect the savory, hearty dishes that seem to go well with beer, including schnitzels, lamb steak, Swiss sausage (of veal or pork), and grilled chicken breast filets, as well as deep-fried pikeperch.

Unter den Egg 2. 041/410-52-57. www.rathausbrauerei.ch. Reservations not necessary. Main courses 16F–45F; beer 4F–8F. AE, DC, MC, V. May–Sept daily 9am–12:30am; Oct–Apr daily 11:30am–12:30am. Bus: 1 or 2.

Schiffrestaurant Wilhelm Tell SWISS Built in 1908, this lake cruiser (Schiff is German for “ship”) sailed boatloads of happy passengers from one end of Lake Lucerne to the other. After it was replaced by newer ships in the late 1960s, it was transformed into a floating restaurant in 1972. Now permanently moored at one of the quays, it’s usually ringed with a colony of swans, which feed off the scraps thrown overboard. Drinks and snacks are served on outdoor cafe tables in the bow area, where you can have a beer or coffee throughout the day. A formal restaurant is found under the low ceiling of the aft section, where fine food is served with alert attention. The ship’s engine, brightly polished and set behind glass, is on display as a work of industrial art. The well-chosen menu may include excellently prepared filets of perch or sole prepared seaman’s style, chopped chicken breast with smoked ham and bits of apple in a Calvados sauce with rösti, and flavorful grills of succulent veal and beef.

Landungsbrücke 9. 041/410-23-30. www.schiffrestaurant.ch. Reservations recommended. Main courses 17F–42F. AE, MC, V. Sept–Apr Tues–Sun 11am–midnight; May–Aug daily 11am–midnight. Bus: 2.

Vinotek Opus CONTINENTAL/MEDITERRANEAN Set within a pair of interconnected medieval buildings, one side of which opens onto views of the river, this wine bar rocks and rolls in one of the most irreverent formats in town. It’s understood that you’ll come here for at least one glass (and perhaps several) of the Swiss and foreign wines served. You can also order platters of Serrano-style smoked ham, Italian soft cheese marinated in olive oil with garlic, vitello tonnato, a tartare of smoked salmon, and gazpacho studded with smoked mussels. There are even some experimental dishes such as Asian lasagna Shanghai (with Asian vegetables, shiitake mushrooms, snow peas, tofu, and soy sprouts), or red snapper in red curry sauce, as well as more mainstream platters such as fried perch filets or roulades of rabbit filet. The cellar contains more than 650 types of wine. Sprawling and convivial, it has seating in two dining rooms, at tables beside two different bars, and on a wide terrace beside the river overlooking the Old Town.

Bahnhofstrasse 16. 041/226-41-41. www.restaurant-opus.ch. Reservations not necessary. Platters 24F–44F; wine 8F–16F per glass. AE, MC, V. Bars daily 8:30am–midnight; kitchen Sun–Thurs 11:30am–11:30pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am–12:30am. Bus: 1 or 2.

Lucerne After Dark

Flashy lights and spinning wheels of fortune are found at the Grand Casino (also known as Casineum), Haldenstrasse 6 ( 041/418-56-56; www.grandcasinoluzern.ch). You can try your luck at 140 slot machines. Poker, roulette, and blackjack are also available.

On a more cultural note, if you speak German, you can enjoy performances at the Stadttheater, Theaterstrasse 2 ( 041/228-14-14; www.luzernertheater.ch). Directly on the lake on the rail station side of town, it’s the home of Lucerne’s major theater group. Operas in their original language are also staged here. The Allgemeine Musikgesellschaft Lucerne is the local resident orchestra, presenting performances at the KKL Congress Center from October to June, or at the Kultur und Kongress Zentrum (see below). For more information, call 041/210-50-50.

In the late 1990s, the city of Lucerne inaugurated one of the most dramatically modern, large-scale buildings in central Switzerland, the Kultur und Kongress Zentrum (KKL), Europaplatz 1 ( 041/226-77-77; www.kkl-luzern.ch), as a glittering showcase to corporate conventions and the performing arts. Poised beside the railway station in starkly modern contrast to the spires and alpine architecture of the rest of Lucerne, its controversial shape may remind newcomers of an enchanted “music box” that glitters with acres of glass and metal panels in shades of forest green, dark blue, and red. It was designed with a spectacular copper-sheathed roof by noted Parisian architect Jean Nouvele. Its auditoriums have some of the best acoustics in the world, thanks to rotating panels behind the stage. Expect heavy use of this site for classical, rock, and heavy-metal concerts. (For information about the concerts that will be presented here, check out the posters in front of the building, or call the concert hall itself at 0848/800-800 or 0900/552-225.) A snack bar and cafe are also on the premises.

The Altstadt (Old Town) always brims with pubs and cafes. Mr. Pickwick’s Pub, Rathausquai 6 ( 041/410-59-27; www.pickwick.ch), is the most authentic looking and the most popular British pub in Lucerne, with a sudsy, woodsy-looking decor that’s awash with Brits, beer, and anyone else who simply wants to toss back a pint or two from a riverfront location near the northern end of the Old Town’s covered bridge. It generally stays open nightly until 1am, which is very late by the standards of Lucerne.

Many hotels have more subdued bars, especially the National, Haldenstrasse 4 ( 041/419-09-09), which has a glossy American-type bar, and the Palace Hotel, Haldenstrasse 10 ( 041/416-16-16), which also has one American-style bar. The most ultracool place in Lucerne is the Lounge Bar of the Hotel, Sempacherstrasse 14 ( 041/226-86-86).

Suite Lounge, on the top floor of the Hotel Monopol, Pilatusstrasse 1 ( 041/220-13-15), is our favorite nightclub in Lucerne. We say that partly because it’s crowded with the kinds of hip and available people you can talk to, and partly because it boasts one of the most dramatic physical settings of any nightclub in Switzerland. To reach it, you’ll wait in line on the lobby level of the hotel, a Belle Epoque beauty that sits across the plaza from the railway station. An attendant will funnel clients, in elevator-size blocks, into a lift that will haul you to a point beneath the hotel’s ornate copper-sheathed cupola. Here, recently released dance music, three bars, and a pair of outdoor terraces combine to create an instant party ambience that virtually everyone finds invigorating. By all means, climb to the club’s highest point for open-air views of Lucerne that are among the best in the city. Incidentally, this nightclub’s name (P-1) derives from a simplification of its address (Pilatusstrasse 1).

The Loft, Haldenstrasse 2 ( 041/410-92-44; www.theloft.ch), is a serious contender for the title of the most hip and with-it nightclub in a town that’s loaded with worthy competition. Music is a sophisticated blend of whatever you might have expected in London or Los Angeles, and the crowd is young and beautiful. The decor includes at least two bar areas and a balcony that overlooks a high-tech dance floor ringed with free-standing candelabrum, whose candles seem to flicker in rhythm to the music. There is a cover charge of 10F to 15F.

The terrace of the Penthouse Bar at the Hotel Astoria, Pilatusstrasse 29 ( 041/226-88-88), offers a panoramic view over the rooftops of the city and the dramatic mountainscape beyond. Large sofas are an invitation to linger. On weekends, DJs keep everybody in a party mood. BLUE is a lounge bar at the also-recommended Renaissance Lucerne Hotel, Pilatusstrasse 15 ( 041/266-87-87), featuring the most exotic cocktails in town. Blue is the dominant theme here, but the style of the bar ranges from Asian to mock Louis XVI.

Easy Excursions from Lucerne

Lake Lucerne is known for its scenery and the many old-world villages along its shores. Many poets have praised the area’s beauty. You may be lucky enough to stay in a hotel room that commands a view of the lake.

Lake steamers and mountain railways can get you to most points of interest around Lake Lucerne. Boat cruises are free if you have the Swiss Card, or a Eurailpass or InterRail pass. Mountain railways can whisk you to elevations of 3,000m (9,840 ft.) or more in a very short time. Our first adventure will be a major mountain excursion to Mount Pilatus, a 2,100m (6,888-ft.) summit overlooking Lucerne.

Mount Pilatus ★★★

Pilatus-Kulm is located 15km (9 miles) south of Lucerne. Its German name derives from an old legend: During medieval times, it’s said, the city fathers of Lucerne banned travel up the mountain because they thought that its slopes were haunted by the ghost of Pontius Pilate; they feared that Pilate would be angered by intrusive visitors and cause violent storms. For many years after the ban was finally lifted, only a few souls were brave enough to climb the mountain. Queen Victoria made the trip in 1868. Today, the ascent to Pilatus is one of the most popular excursions in Switzerland.

Between May and November, weather permitting, the cog railway—the world’s steepest—operates between Alpnachstad, at the edge of the lake, and the very top of Mount Pilatus. From the quays of Lucerne, take a lake steamer for a scenic 90-minute boat ride to Alpnachstad. If you have a rail pass, remember that it will be valid on this steamer.

At Alpnachstad, transfer to the electric cog railway, which runs at a 48-degree gradient—the steepest cogwheel railway in the world. Departures are every 45 minutes daily from 8:50am to 4:30pm May to September only. At Pilatus-Kulm, you can get out and enjoy the view. There are two mountain hotels and a belvedere offering views of Lake Lucerne and many of the mountains around it. For the descent from Mount Pilatus, some visitors prefer to take a pair of cable cars—first a large cabin-style téléphérique, then a small gondola. The cable cars end at Kriens, a suburb of Lucerne. Here you can take bus no. 1, which will carry you into the heart of Lucerne. The round-trip fare on the cog railway and cable car is 94F, 50% off for children 15 and under.

A similar excursion to Pilatus is possible in the winter, but because the cog railway is buried in snow, you must alter your plans. You’ll have to ascend and descend by cable car, which many visitors find exhilarating. From the center of Lucerne, take bus no. 1 from the Bahnhof to the outlying suburb of Kriens. At Kriens, transfer to a cable car that glides over meadows and forests to the village of Fräkmüntegg, 1,380m (4,526 ft.) above sea level. The trip takes half an hour. At Fräkmüntegg, switch to another cable car, this one much more steeply inclined than the first. A stunning feat of advanced engineering, it swings above gorges and cliffs to the very peak of Mount Pilatus (Pilatus-Kulm). Unlike the cog railways, these cable cars operate year-round. The round-trip ride by cable car from Kriens to Fräkmüntegg costs 42F. Insider tip: Visit Pilatus early in the day. Clouds and fog sometimes move in after the noon hour and mask the magnificent view from the top of this mountain peak. You can be fooled by a clear view at the bottom of Pilatus, only to reach the top later to be engulfed in the clouds.

For information, consult the staff at the city’s tourist office or call 041/329-11-11. They’re well informed about these excursions, as are the desk personnel at most of Lucerne’s hotels.

Rigi ★★★

For another panoramic view from a hilltop belvedere, go to Rigi, 24km (15 miles) east of Lucerne. The view from Rigi is different from that atop Mount Pilatus, so if you see both, you won’t be replicating your experience. Pilatus offers the more panoramic vista, but the view from Rigi is more beautiful. By most accounts, Rigi (1,680m/5,510 ft.) is the most famous mountain view in the country. However, you may be disappointed if the weather’s not clear. Rigi is called the “island mountain” because it appears to be surrounded by the waters of lakes Lucerne, Zug, and Lauerz. It’s accessible by two cog railways and a cableway.

Adventurous visitors making the “grand tour” in the 19th century spent the night at Rigi-Kulm to see the sun rise over the Alps. Victor Hugo called it “an incredible horizon . . . that chaos of absurd exaggerations and scary diminutions.” Later, Mark Twain also climbed to the top to see the sun rise across the Alps. But he was so exhausted, as he relates in A Tramp Abroad, that he collapsed into sleep, from which he didn’t wake until sunset. Not realizing that he had slept all day, he at first recoiled in horror, believing that the sun had switched its direction and was actually rising in the west. This experience continues to be one of nature’s loveliest offerings in all of Europe. For those wanting to partake of the tradition, many hotels are perched on the mountainside.

You can travel to the mountain by taking a 55-minute trip by lake steamer from Lucerne to Vitznau, a small resort on the northern shore of the lake. The rack railway from Vitznau to Rigi-Kulm was the first cog railway in Europe, built in 1871. You can also approach the mountain from Arth-Goldau, which is on the southern shore of Zug Lake. The Arth-Goldau cog railway to Rigi-Kulm opened in 1876. The maximum gradient is 21%. Both cog railways cost 65F for the round-trip. It’s possible to go up one way and come down the other if you want to see both sides of the mountain. The trip from Vitznau takes 40 minutes and the trip from Arth-Goldau lasts 35 minutes. There are a dozen departures a day in season. An alternative ascent is strongly advocated by the local tourist office: Begin at the quays in Lucerne, and take a lake steamer to Vitznau. From here, after a stroll through the town, go to the top of Rigi-Kulm by cog railway and admire the view from the top. Then descend halfway down the mountain via the same cog railway, getting off midway at Rigi Kaltbad. Here you’ll switch to the Rigi Seilbahn cable car, which will carry you the rest of the way downhill, a 15-minute downhill walk from the hamlet of Weggis. You can begin this trip daily between 8am and around 2pm, which is the last reasonable departure time, if you want to see the sights and return to Lucerne before dark. The tourist office or a staff member at the phone number listed below will recite the available times of departures. Many visitors, however, find that the most convenient departure time from Lucerne is at 8:32am and again at 10:32am. For more information about anything to do with ascents of Mount Rigi, call the Lucerne Tourist office at 041/227-17-17. The ascents described in this section are possible only from March to October.

Bürgenstock

The chic resort of Bürgenstock, lying 16km (10 miles) southeast of Lucerne, has become a virtual ghost town, except for construction crews. Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren, and other celebrities who used to vacation or live here temporarily are long gone, as is the resort’s international reputation for glamour. That’s the bad news. The good news is that the trio of hotels here have shut down for major renovations, not to reopen until 2014. Upon their return, predictions are that they will be among the most elegant and luxurious hotels in all of Switzerland.

Gütsch

One sweeping panorama of the region that rises immediately above the center of Lucerne (and doesn’t involve a full day’s excursion) is the panoramic plateau of Gütsch, 514m (1,686 ft.) above sea level. At the top is a belvedere platform that’s the site of the Hotel Château Gütsch. Views from the belvedere are breathtaking. To reach this panoramic site, board bus no. 12 from the train station on Bahnhofplatz.

Where to Eat

Restaurant Petit Palais ★★ SWISS/INTERNATIONAL Dining in the Hotel Château Gütsch, a castle set on a hilltop overlooking Lake Lucerne, is almost like a celebration. You can sample marvelous dishes such as poached pole-caught codfish with Italian spinach, red-wine scallions, and a porcini risotto; crispy sautéed pikeperch filet with young leeks; or small angler fish sautéed in olive oil and served with a Mediterranean potato ragout and a sweet-pepper cream sauce. Starters are prepared fresh daily, and the desserts are luscious.

Currently, this property is undergoing a conversion into a luxury boutique hotel set to open in the first half of 2012. It will contain 20 bedrooms of luxurious furnishings and exceptionally large space. Next to the castle, a modern building will accommodate another 40 bedrooms and suites, plus a spa.

In the Château Gütsch, Kanonenstrasse. 041/248-98-98. www.chateau-guetsch.ch. Reservations required. Main courses 62F–68F. AE, MC, V. Tues–Sat 11:30am–11pm; Sun 11:30am–5pm.

Impressions

We were soon tramping leisurely up the leafy mulepath, and then the talk began to flow, as usual. It was twelve o’clock noon, and a breezy, cloudless day; the ascent was gradual, and the glimpses from under the curtaining boughs, of blue water, and tiny sail boats, and beetling cliffs, were as charming as glimpses of dreamland.

—Mark Twain, on “Climbing the Rigi”

Mount Titlis ★★

Mount Titlis, which is visited as an excursion from the little resort of Engelberg, is the highest point from which you can get a view over central Switzerland. The summit is always covered by snow and ice; there’s an “ice cave,” in addition to a glacier trail. The view from the belvedere, at 2,970m (9,742 ft.), takes in the Jungfrau and the Matterhorn, as well as Zurich and Basel on a clear day. There’s a summer ski run with a ski lift. There are also two restaurants: the Panorama Restaurant Titlis at 3,000m (9,840 ft.), and the Gletscher–Restaurant Stand at 2,412m (7,911 ft.). They have the same phone number: 041/639-50-80.

To get to the summit, you take a funicular and three cable cars. The last stage of the cable-car trip is the most spectacular, as you’re taken right over the glacier. Visitors with respiratory problems may want to forgo this trip because of the thinness of the air at such elevations. The terminal at the summit (which is referred to in some timetables as Kleintitlis, or Little Titlis) has an observation lounge and a large sun terrace.

To get to Titlis from Lucerne’s Bahnhof, drive or take a train to Engelberg; the round-trip costs 57F in first class, 34F in second class. Then, to reach the summit, take the cable cars that run daily beginning at 8:30am, with the last one back at 5pm. In winter, skiers use this connection to get to the higher slopes. For more information and schedules, call 041/639-50-50 or 041/639-50-61.

Weggis ★★

30km (19 miles) E of Lucerne

The lakeside resort of Weggis is on the sunny side of Mount Rigi, one of three holiday centers (Vitznau and Gersau are the others) that offer the kind of mild climate found in favored parts of Italy. Weggis and the other resorts are about an hour’s walk or a 5-minute drive apart. Well-tended garden promenades stretch for several miles along the lakeshore. Mark Twain stayed here in 1897.

Of the three resorts, Weggis is preferred by most. It’s usually the first port of call for steamers from Lucerne and is also easily accessible from the international St. Gotthard railway line, although it’s not on the main traffic route.

Many excursions are possible from early spring to late autumn. You can take the aerial cableway up to Rigi-Kaltbad (1,427m/4,681 ft.), a mountain health resort behind Weggis. This is great walking country, not only on the promenade quays, but also on the slopes of the Rigi, which are planted with vines. Even some almost tropical species of vegetation grow here. In addition, mountain transport links Weggis with the Rigi Railways.

Essentials

Getting There Several lake steamers ( 041/367-67-67) depart from the quays of Lucerne for Weggis every day, requiring about 45 minutes for the transfer. Once you reach Weggis, a local bus run by the village transports you (in the summertime only) from the lakefront to the upper reaches of the town.

Though Weggis is not directly accessible by rail, the railway junction of Kussnacht lies 9.6km (6 miles) from Weggis. From Kussnacht, buses depart for the 10- to 13-minute ride to Weggis.

If you’re driving from Lucerne, drive east on Route 2, along the northern rim of Lake Lucerne, cutting south on Route 2b at the signposted turnoff to Weggis.

Visitor Information The Weggis Tourist Office, Seestrasse 5 ( 041/227-18-00; www.wvrt.ch), is open May to September Monday to Friday 8:30am to 6pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am to 4pm; October to April Monday to Friday 8:30am to noon and 1 to 5:30pm, Saturday and Sunday 9:30am to 1:30pm. If you’d like to go biking along the banks of Lake Lucerne, you can stop in here and rent a bike for the day for 28F.

Where to Stay & Eat

Hotel Albana ★ This hotel is outclassed only by the Beau-Rivage (see below). The Hotel Albana was built in the Art Nouveau style in 1896 and has been run by the Wolf family since 1910. One of the public rooms, with a grand piano and a 3m (10-ft.) Meissen ceramic stove, looks almost baronial. Heavy brass chandeliers hang from the frescoed ceiling, and large rococo mirrors reflect the wood paneling. The midsize bedrooms are modernized with excellent beds. Many have good views of the nearby lake. The best food at the resort is served in the Panorama Restaurant, which has large windows and a terrace above the lake. The decor of the hotel’s Jazz Bar was inspired by Matisse; on some nights it offers live music.

CH-6353 Weggis. www.albana-weggis.ch. 041/390-21-41. Fax 041/390-29-59. 56 units. 250F–360F double. Half board 48F–58F. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed mid-Dec to mid-Jan. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; bikes; exercise room; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Hotel Beau-Rivage ★★ One of the attractions of this 1908 hotel is its expansive, manicured lawn, which reaches down to the lake near the boat landing. The view of the mountains from here is exhilarating. The symmetrical hotel has a series of wrought-iron balconies, and the traditional and spacious rooms are comfortably furnished with wood, brass, and pastel shades. Comfortable bedrooms open onto panoramic lake and mountain views.

CH-6353 Weggis. www.beaurivage-weggis.ch. 041/392-79-00. Fax 041/390-19-81. 41 units. 228F–460F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15F. Closed Nov–Apr. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Jacuzzi; outdoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (15F per 24 hr.).

Hotel Central am See This old-fashioned resort hotel, built with six large gables and many smaller ones, stands on a shady peninsula with a swimming pool near the lake. Constructed in 1912, it offers an interior with traditional furniture and an elevator carrying clients to the well-maintained, rather stark bedrooms, most of which offer a view of the lake and mountains. The hotel has a greenhouse-style restaurant, the Winter Garden, overlooking the lake.

CH-6353 Weggis. www.central-am-see.ch. 041/392-09-09. Fax 041/392-09-00. 35 units. Oct to mid-May 190F–270F double; mid-May to Sept 210F–290F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V. Parking 20F. Closed mid-Nov to mid-Jan. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; bikes; outdoor heated pool; room service. In room: TV, CD player, hair dryer, minibar (in some), Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Rössli Completely renovated, this century-old hotel with elaborate shingles occupies the most desirable lakefront position at the center of the resort town, facing a tranquil square with flowers, statues, and a fountain. The hotel has ornate wood balustrades and russet-colored shutters. The interior is modern, with a decor of wrought iron, wicker chairs, and hanging lamps. The Nölly family offers pleasant midsize rooms with attractive furniture and neatly kept bathrooms. You’ll also find a sidewalk cafe in front.

CH-6353 Weggis. www.wellness-roessli.ch. 041/392-27-27. Fax 041/390-27-26. 65 units. 220F–330F double. Half board 40F. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 6F. Amenities: Restaurant; outdoor pool; spa. In room: TV, DVD (in some), hair dryer.

Vitznau ★

26km (16 miles) E of Lucerne; 4km (2 1/2 miles) SE of Weggis

Vitznau is located on a different bay of Lake Lucerne, at the foot of the Rigi. At 439m (1,440 ft.), it offers an alpine panorama that’s mirrored in the lake. It’s an hour’s drive from Zurich.

Sports vacations are especially popular in Vitznau from April to October. Facilities include swimming in the lake, indoor and outdoor pools, and tennis courts. There are also many inviting hiking trails—ideal for long walks—in the meadows, woodlands, and mountains.

The Vitznau-Rigi railway starts at Vitznau along the shores of Lake Lucerne, on the south side of Mount Rigi. The railway terminates at Kulm peak, after passing through the mountain stations of Rigi-Kaltbad-First, Rigi Staffelhöehe, and Rigi Staffel. In the summer, old-fashioned steam trains travel on this stretch of electric rack-and-pinion railway. Pause to enjoy the beauty of the resort before heading up to the mountain. Departures are every 30 minutes.

Essentials

Getting There The only rail line servicing Vitznau is a local alpine train connecting it to such panoramic points as Rigi-Kulm and Rigi-Kaltbad. Call 0900/300-300 for rail schedules.

Buses depart for Vitznau from the Küssnacht railway station, which is reached from Lucerne by train every hour, requiring about 45 minutes, including a stopover in Weggis. Some of the buses continue to Gersau, where there’s a connection to Brunne. For bus schedules and information, call 041/367-67-67.

Ferries depart for Vitznau from the quays of Lucerne every hour in summer and about every 2 hours in winter. The trip takes about 1 hour. Call 041/367-67-67 for more information.

If you’re driving, the resort is reached by first passing through Weggis (see section 2, above), then continuing along Route 2b south to Vitznau, a very short drive along the lake.

Visitor Information The Vitznau Tourist Board, in the town center ( 041/227-18-00; www.vitznau.ch), is open all year-round Monday to Friday 8:30am to noon and 1 to 5:30pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am to 1pm.

Exploring the Area

If you’d like to enjoy the pleasures of the lake itself, both paddleboats and motorboats are available for rent at Anker Travel, Zihlstrasse ( 041/397-17-07). It’s also possible to swim in the bay here, although the temperatures are a mite chilly for those from sunnier climes.

If you’re biking down from Vitznau, you can tour the entire right bank of the lake by Route 2, which runs all the way to Altdorf (see section 5, below).

An Idyllic Swimming Hole

To escape from the crowds along Lake Lucerne, we’ll let you in on a secret: At the very southeastern tip of Lake Lucerne is the narrow and splendid inlet lake, the Urnersee, which attracts fewer visitors than the resorts along Lake Lucerne even though it’s no less majestic or beautiful. In fact, this is the most remote, wildest, and loveliest part of the whole of Lake Lucerne. A natural rock obelisk, called Schillerstein, rises some 25m (82 ft.) out of the Urnersee, and is dedicated to Friedrich von Schiller, the author of Wilhelm Tell.

Where to Stay & Eat

Hotel Rigi Although the service from the staff may leave you as cold as an alpine lake, this is a clean and decent place that can be recommended for its economy. About a block from the boat-landing dock, the hotel is a century-old monument within the town center, although rooms have been kept fairly up-to-date. Units come in a variety of shapes and sizes and are comfortable, with firm beds and good maintenance. If available, opt for one of the corner bedrooms that open onto their own private balconies and a view of the lake. Don’t expect many in-room amenities outside of a telephone and private bathroom.

Seestrasse, CH-6354 Vitznau. www.rigi-vitznau.ch. 041/399-85-85. Fax 041/399-85-86. 35 units. 120F–200F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; Internet (free, in lobby); room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar (in some).

Brunnen ★★

45km (28 miles) SE of Lucerne

Brunnen is a popular vacation resort in the canton of Schwyz. It’s located at the foot of Fronalpstock, in a beautiful inlet at the southern end of Lake Lucerne, where you find the Urnersee (or Lake Uri), one of the most beautiful lake sites in Switzerland. There’s a fine view of the two lakes and the Alps from the quays. The resort is about an hour’s drive from Zurich’s Kloten International Airport.

Essentials

Getting There Some of the local trains running between Zurich and Lugano or Locarno in Switzerland’s deep south stop in Brunnen, although others require changes in such towns as Goschenen. Call 0900/300-300 (www.sbb.ch) for rail schedules.

A mini-armada of buses commutes dozens of times every day from Schwyz to both the waterfront and the railroad station at Brunnen, requiring only about 12 minutes for the one-way passage. Other buses travel from Brunnen to the beginning of the cable car that ascends to Morschach. For bus schedules and information, call 041/390-11-33.

Several lake steamers depart from the quays of Lucerne for Brunnen throughout the day, with more frequent service scheduled during midsummer. Travel time from Lucerne to Brunnen ranges from 2 to 2 1/2 hours. For more information, call 041/367-67-67.

From Lucerne, drive to the resorts of Weggis and Vitznau (see sections 2 and 3), then continue southeast along Route 2b until you reach Brunnen.

Visitor Information The Brunnen Tourist Office, Bahnhofstrasse 15 ( 041/825-00-40; www.brunnentourismus.ch), is open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 6pm and Saturday and Sunday 9am to 1pm.

Exploring the Area

What you do here is walk along the shady lakeside quays ★★, among the country’s most scenic parts, taking in views of the wild and remote lake, the Urnersee. The views of the lake from the quays are stunning, taking in the awesome Uri-Rotstock, twin peaks with a small glacier.

The area around Brunnen—so beloved by Hans Christian Andersen—is the cradle of the Confederation and abounds in reminders of the country’s history, including archives in Schwyz where the Confederation documents are displayed, and the Federal Chapel in Brunnen.

This is also William Tell country. Around the year 1250, several families left Raron in the Valais and crossed the Alps to establish new homes in desolate Schächental/Uri. Records confirm that the Tell family helped found the settlement. According to folk legend, William Tell was the hero of a decisive battle in 1315 and reportedly died in 1350. Historians, however, have no proof of these events.

Nevertheless, the Swiss honor the man who shot an apple off the head of his brave young son with a bow and arrow in a test of prowess. Many visitors travel to Sisikon, just south of Brunnen, to see the Tell Chapel, which was restored in 1881. The chapel contains records from the early 16th century and paintings by Stückelberg.

Nearby Attractions Brunnen is the starting point of Axenstrasse, the stunning panoramic road—a masterpiece of engineering—leading south to the St. Gotthard Pass. It goes along the rim of Lake Uri, in and out of subterranean passageways and galleries carved out of the mountain. Brunnen is also a base for excursions by ship, mountain railway, bus, and train to points around Lake Lucerne.

The Legend of william tell

One of the most famous names in Swiss history, linked with the country’s struggle for liberty, concerned a William Tell, who may never have existed. But to the Swiss he’s very real, the father who, with his crossbow, hit the apple that the tyrannical Austrian bailiff of Uri, Gessler, had placed on the head of his son.

When Gessler allegedly asked Tell why he had brought a second arrow, Tell told him he intended it for Gessler if he had hit his son instead of the apple. Furious, Gessler had Tell dragged to his boat at the northwestern shore of Lake Lucerne. A storm came up and Gessler released Tell from his fetters, hoping that his strong arms could save the boat party. Tell escaped and waited on the shore near Gessler’s castle. When Gessler arrived, Tell hit him with an arrow straight through the heart. Or so the story goes.

First found in a ballad, the tale dates from at least before 1474. Over the years, various authors have smoothed away inconsistencies and rounded out the tale. But it was Schiller’s play in 1804 that gave the tale worldwide renown.

Alleged proof of the actual existence of a William Tell break down hopelessly upon scholarly examination. For example, entries in the parish registers are forgeries. One document that alleged that 114 men in 1338 had been “personally acquainted” with Tell didn’t surface until 1759—no doubt a fake.

Tellskapelle (the Tell Chapel) stands today as a monument to the legend, lying at the Lake of the Four Cantons between Sisikon and Flüelen.

Where to Stay & Eat

Seehotel Waldstätterhof ★★ One of the few government-rated five-star hotels opening onto the lake, the Waldstätterhof offers old-style comfort. The symmetrical white building has a mansard roof and a series of balconies overlooking the lake. Plenty of modern comforts have been installed since the hotel opened in 1870. The public rooms are grand and the dining room has fanciful chandeliers. The grounds are well kept and free of traffic and include a private beach on the lake. There’s also a terrace restaurant, a less formal dining room, and a rotisserie. The Lake Lucerne steamers stop nearby, and the Schiller Memorial Stone can be seen on the opposite shore of the lake. The hotel is open year-round.

Waldstätterquai 6, CH-6440 Brunnen. www.waldstaetterhof.ch. 041/825-06-06. Fax 041/825-06-00. 104 units. 270F–430F double; 590F–710F suite. Half board 60F. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking outside, 20F garage. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; exercise room; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (10F per hr.).

Altdorf

54km (34 miles) SE of Lucerne

Altdorf is the town where the William Tell legend is said to have taken place. A statue of the Swiss national hero stands in the main square. The key to the St. Gotthard Pass, Altdorf is north of the Alps and 3km (2 miles) south of where the Reuss River flows into the Urnersee. It’s the capital of the canton of Uri and the starting point of the road over the Klausen Pass. The most scenic way to get to Altdorf from Lucerne is to ride a lake steamer to Flüelen and transfer to a bus. The total trip takes about 3 hours. Call the tourist office (see below) for more information.

Essentials

Getting There Several daily trains make the 27-minute trip to Altdorf from the region’s biggest railway junction, Arth-Goldau, on their way south to Chiasso and eventually Milan. Call 0900/300-300 for rail schedules.

The bus routes coming into Altdorf connect the town with mountain hamlets, which usually have no railway junctions of their own. In summer, a handful of buses connect it with Zurich’s Hauptbahnhof, sometimes with a transfer in Flüelen. Travel time from Zurich is about 1 1/2 hours. For bus schedules and information, call 0900/300-300.

If you’re driving from Brunnen on Lake Lucerne, continue south along N4.

Visitor Information The Altdorf Tourist Office ( 041/874-80-00; www.altdorftourismus.ch) is open Monday to Friday 9 to 11:30am and 1 to 5:30pm, Saturday 9 to 11:30am.

Attractions

The famous William Tell statue is in front of the early-19th-century town hall and a tower dating from the Middle Ages. The monument was created by Richard Kissling in 1895; it was this image, engraved on a postage stamp, which became familiar to people all over the globe.

Altdorf is set in a scenic area of central Switzerland that makes for good biking. You can rent a bike at the train station ( 0900/300-300). Armed with a good map from the tourist office, set out on your adventure.

Nearby Attractions The road to the Klausen Pass leads to Bürglen, one of the oldest hamlets in Uri. Snowdrifts block the pass from October to May. Bürglen, according to legend, was the birthplace of William Tell. The Tell Museum, Postplatz ( 041/870-41-55; www.tellmuseum.ch), contains documents and mementos relating to the early history of Switzerland. The museum is in a Romanesque tower adjacent to the parish church. It’s open April to June and September to October daily from 10 to 11:30am and 1:30 to 5pm; in July and August, daily hours are 10am to 5pm. Admission is 5.50F for adults, 1.50F for children 16 and under.

Where to Stay & Eat

Goldener Schlüssel The best of the lot is this five-story, government-rated three-star hotel in the center of town. A historic inn dating from the 19th century, it faces a tiny medieval plaza and is distinguished by a wrought-iron sign bearing a golden key (goldener Schlüssel). The hotel’s accessories include a handful of original paintings. The bedrooms are cozy and comfortably furnished.

The hotel’s well-reputed restaurant serves a cuisine based on all-Swiss recipes and local ingredients.

Schützengasse 9, CH-6460 Altdorf. www.hotelschluessel.ch. 041/871-20-02. Fax 041/870-11-67. 18 units. 180F–220F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; exercise room; Jacuzzi; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Andermatt ★

50km (31 miles) SE of Lucerne

At the crossroads of the Alps, Andermatt is a sports center known for its long, sunny days in winter. It’s in the Urseren Valley, at the junction of two alpine roads—the St. Gotthard highway and the road to Oberalp and Furka. Visitors flock here for the valley’s scenic grandeur, best absorbed by hiking in summer or cross-country skiing in winter.

Essentials

Getting There Andermatt lies directly on a secondary rail line connecting Chur with Lucerne, where further connections can be made on express trains to the rest of Switzerland. Travel time from Lucerne is about 1 3/4 hours. Call 0900/300-300 for rail schedules. There is no bus service.

Three or four buses travel daily from the bus junction of Airolo to Andermatt. To Airolo, buses funnel in every day from Basel, Lucerne, Zurich, and Lugano, with connections to such other resorts as Brig and Oberwald. For bus schedules and information, call 0848/88-88-88.

If you’re driving from Amsteg, continue south along N2.

Visitor Information The Andermatt Tourist Office, Gotthardstrasse 2 ( 041/888-71-00; www.andermatt.ch), is open Monday to Saturday from 9am to noon and 2 to 5:30pm.

Exploring the Area

Andermatt is a good base for hikes across the mountain passes, including the St. Gotthard Pass and the Furka Pass. In winter, skiers flock to Gemsstock, Natschen, Oberalp, and Winterhorn. Also in winter the town offers 10 lifts, 5 cable cars, 21km (13 miles) of cross-country trails open November to May, and 56km (35 miles) of downhill runs. Intermediate to advanced skiers are attracted to the resort. Safety devices help protect against snowdrifts and avalanches. Other sporting facilities include a Swiss Ski School, an ice-skating and curling rink, an indoor swimming pool, and squash courts. Sleigh rides are also offered.

South of Andermatt, the St. Gotthard Pass ★, at 2,109m (6,918 ft.), provides a link between the Grisons and the Valais Alps. It’s one of the most stunning and scenic passes in Switzerland, used by merchants and messengers as far back as the early Middle Ages. The road through the pass was built in the 18th and 19th centuries atop a much older footpath; it’s still the shortest route between the two watersheds that fall away on either side. A 15km (9-mile) railway tunnel burrows under the peak of the St. Gotthard massif; nearby, the St. Gotthard road tunnel, opened in 1980, is the longest one in the world. There’s no toll along the 16km (10-mile) route, which is open year-round. (The road high above it closes during heavy snowfalls.)

If you don’t have a car, you can take the postal bus over the pass or the train through the tunnel. The postal bus leaves from Andermatt and goes to Airolo daily between mid-April and mid-September. Departures from Andermatt are at 9:35am and 12:30pm. The last bus back leaves Airolo at 5pm. In winter, the pass is closed and postal buses can’t get through, but you could take the train to Göschenen and from there continue by train to Airolo. Trains run through the tunnel frequently, the only way for trains to cross this mountain-pass area. For train information and schedules, call 0900/300-300.

The 32km (20-mile) Furka Pass Road ★★★ going from Gletsch to Andermatt takes about 2 1/2 hours and is one of the most scenic rides in Europe. Begin the trip at Gletsch at 174m (571 ft.). As you drive along, you’ll have panoramic views of the Rhône Glacier, and both the Bernese and Valais Alps. The pass, at 2,392m (7,846 ft.), is the highest shelf of the towering longitudinal furrow, dividing the Swiss Alps from the rail junction at Martigny to the town of Chur. In 1982, a railway tunnel, a stunning feat of modern engineering, opened the pass between the villages of Oberwald and Realp. Going through the barren valley of Garschen and bordering the foothills of Galenstock, a mountain peak, the road comes to the severe Urseren Valley before passing through the villages of Realp, Hospental, and finally Andermatt, where you might want to spend the night.

Where to Stay & Eat

Hotel Aurora Although this hotel presents a modern and unassuming facade to the world outside, the pleasant and warmly decorated interior and the hands-on management of its owners (the Christen family) make a stay here worthwhile. Built in 1969, it’s a well-managed, government-rated three-star hotel, lying at the southern edge of the village, within a 5-minute walk of the town center. Each small room has touches of pine paneling and a neatly kept bathroom.

CH-6490 Andermatt. www.aurora-andermatt.ch. 041/887-16-61. Fax 041/887-00-86. 26 units. 190F–210F double; 240F triple. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, MC, V. Parking 10F. Closed May and Nov. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Drei Könige und Post ★ This old and fabled inn still puts up wayfarers. There has been a series of inns at this site since 1234, and Goethe spent the night at one of them in 1775. This family-run hotel has been rebuilt or renovated many times since. There’s a cafe terrace in front of this white-walled chalet with buttressed eaves and brown shutters. Regional Swiss dishes are served in the hotel restaurant. The Renner family offers well-furnished paneled rooms, 10 of which have balconies. Rooms range from small to midsize, and each is comfortable with traditional furnishings.

Gotthardstrasse 69, CH-6490 Andermatt. www.3koenige.ch. 041/887-00-01. Fax 041/887-16-66. 21 units. 180F–300F double. Half board 45F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Free outdoor parking, 12F garage. Amenities: Restaurant; babysitting; exercise room; Jacuzzi; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.