Chapter 15: Lugano, Locarno & the Ticino

If you don’t normally think of palm trees in Switzerland, you haven’t seen the Ticino. Also called the Tessin, it’s the Swiss Riviera—the retirement fantasy of thousands of Swiss living in the northern cantons. Although Italian is the major language, German and French (as well as English) are also widely spoken.

A visitor could spend at least 2 weeks just touring the valleys of the Ticino. Officially, the canton begins at Airolo (the southern exit of the St. Gotthard Tunnel), but most visitors head for the district’s major resorts of Locarno, Lugano, and fast-rising Ascona. Lugano and Locarno share the shores of lakes Lugano and Maggiore with Italy. Relations between Switzerland and Italy, however, weren’t always peaceful. The Ticino was basically carved out of the Duchy of Milan by Swiss soldiers and staunchly defended in several bloody battles.

The name of the canton is taken from the Ticino River, a tributary of northern Italy’s Po River. The balmy climate produces subtropical vegetation, which thrives in gardens famous throughout Switzerland. The district’s weather is almost addictive between March and November, but the rest of the year can be cold and damp.

The proximity of Italy manifests itself in the Ticino’s architecture and cuisine. Many buildings are made of stone and are proportioned like structures in Lombardy or Tuscany. Also, in many cases, a trattoria will be owned by a Swiss-German husband and a Swiss-Italian wife, so their cuisine ends up being a concession to each other’s culinary traditions.

Sometimes getting to the Ticino is part of the fun. One of the most dramatic ways to arrive is over the Simplon Pass ★★, a journey that stretches from the German-speaking town of Brig in Switzerland and, after crossing the pass, descends to the Italian border town of Domodossola, a distance of some 64km (40 miles). The pass owes its origins to Napoleon, who demanded a low-altitude pass 1,950m (6,396 ft.) above sea level through which artillery could be transported. This pass is often closed between December and early May because of bad road conditions. At those times, automobiles are transported on flatbed trains, which are carried through one of the longest railway tunnels in the world, the Simplon Tunnel. The tunnel stretches for 20km (12 miles). When the pass is open, it affords one of the most panoramic mountain views in Europe.

Rail passengers can also arrive dramatically by taking the Bernina Express ★★★, a 4-hour trip that begins in Chur and ends in Tirano, Italy. As you near the town of Chur, you will be awed by the rugged peaks around you, but before the end of the journey, as you near the Italian border town of Tirano, you’ll see palm-lined lakefronts. This is the only express train that crosses the Alps with no tunnels, and, as such, it is one of the steepest railway lines in the world. At Tirano, the end of the rail run from Zurich, you can make easy bus connections on to Lugano. For more information about the Bernina Express, call Rail Europe at 800/622-86-00 or visit www.raileurope.com.

Bellinzona

22km (14 miles) E of Locarno; 35km (22 miles) N of Lugano; 192km (119 miles) S of Zurich; 416km (258 miles) W of Geneva

The opening of the St. Gotthard Tunnel made this once-remote Swiss town on Italy’s side of the Alps very accessible. Bellinzona is known for the beauty of its old city and the nearby hills, as well as for the hospitality of its inhabitants.

Because of its location astride the best of the ancient military and trade routes between Rome and its colonies in the north, the town is believed to be of Roman origin. It was later occupied, along with the rest of the Ticino, by both the Celts and the Ligurians. Records of the town date from a.d. 590. As the strategic key to the passes of St. Gotthard, San Bernardino, and Lucomagno, Bellinzona loomed large in the history of Lombardy. In the 8th century, it was owned outright by the bishop of Como, and ownership went back and forth between Como and Milan in the 13th and 14th centuries. By 1798, it had become the capital of its own canton, Bellinzona, in the Swiss Confederation. Five years later, it was incorporated into the newly formed canton of the Ticino, where it has remained ever since, serving as the canton’s capital.

Saturday morning is a good time to visit here to see the lively outdoor market, between 7am and noon. Peddlers, vendors, country people, artisans, and townsfolk converse in Italian over their wares.

Lugano, Locarno & the Ticino

Essentials

Getting There Bellinzona is the easiest destination to reach in the Ticino. Every train from the north of Switzerland stops here, as Bellinzona lies on the Brussels-Basel-Zurich-Milan international line. Indeed, every day regional and international trains stop here about once every 30 minutes. For rail information and schedules, call 0900/300-300 or visit www.sbb.ch.

The nearest airport is at Lugano-Agno, 30 minutes from Bellinzona by train.

If you’re driving from Zurich, continue along the N2 expressway through the St. Gotthard Tunnel into the Ticino. N2 continues southeast to Bellinzona.

Visitor Information The Bellinzona Tourist Bureau, Palazzo Civico at Piazza Nosetto ( 091/825-21-31; www.bellinzonaturismo.ch), is open Sunday to Friday 9am to 6pm and Saturday 9am to 1pm.

Exploring the Area

Bellinzona has three castles dating from the 13th to the 15th centuries: the Schwyz, the Unterwald, and the Uri.

Castle of Uri ★ (Castelgrande, or San Michele in Italian; 091/825-81-45), built in 1280, is the most ancient and the largest castle in town. To reach the castle, take an elevator from piazza del Sole in the town center. In addition to the elevator, there are sign-posted paths from Piazza Collegiata and Piazza Nosetto for those who’d like to take one of the most scenic walks in the area. The castle was restored in 1991 with a historical section and a small numismatic museum. The castle contains a restaurant (see the Castelgrande review below), a banquet room, and a congress hall. It’s open daily from 10am to 6pm. Admission is 5F for adults; 2.50F for children, students, and seniors 65 or over.

The most outstanding of the three medieval fortifications is the Schwyz Castle ★★ (Castello di Montebello; 091/825-13-42). It has a 13th-century château with a courtyard, as well as several 15th-century additions. Today, it’s a minor museum of history and archaeology. To get here by car, start from viale Stazione and follow the steep ramp up to this huge citadel. The opening hours are April to November daily 8am to 8pm. It’s closed from December to March. Admission is 5F for adults and 2.50F for children, students, and seniors 65 or over.

Castle of Unterwald ★ (Castello di Sasso Corbaro; 091/825-59-06) was built in 1479. It can be reached by the same road that goes up to the Schwyz (see above). The view from the terrace here is the finest in Bellinzona. You’ll see not only the lower valley of the Ticino, but Lake Maggiore as well. The castle hosts temporary exhibitions. Open only April to November daily from 10am to 6pm, the castle’s admission price is 5F for adults, and 2.50F for children, students, and seniors, depending on the exhibit.

Also worth visiting is the collegiate Church of Sts. Peter and Stephen, dating from the 16th century. It’s a fine Renaissance structure, with a richly embellished baroque interior. The location is across from Castelgrande.

Guided walking tours of Bellinzona, its Old Town, and its castles are available upon request at the tourist office (see “Essentials,” above).

Bellinzona Blues

In late July, hordes from throughout Switzerland gather in Bellinzona for the annual Blues Festival, where free concerts are staged in squares. Some of the biggest names in blues, such as Buddy Guy and Son Seals, have appeared here, and the tourist office (see “Essentials,” above) will supply the details, which change every year.

Shopping

Pick up a map from the tourist office in the center of the Old Town. A look at the map will direct you to Villa dei Cedri ( 091/821-85-20; www.villacedri.ch), Bellinzona’s municipally owned art gallery, founded in 1985. The gallery contains private art donated to the city but also mounts temporary exhibitions. In back is an enclosed garden and grounds where the townsfolk grow their own small crop of local merlot, bottles of which are offered for sale in the gallery. It’s open Tuesday to Friday from 2 to 6pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 11am to 6pm. Admission is 8F for adults, and 5.50F for students, children, and seniors 65 or over.

Where to Stay

Albergo Unione The best hotel in town is a plain-looking white building with a pink-marble extension with balconies. It’s surrounded by gardens, some with fountains. The government-rated three-star hotel offers modernized, midsize rooms with flowered carpets, tiles, firm beds, and up-to-date plumbing.

Via Général Guisan 1, CH-6500 Bellinzona. www.hotel-unione.ch. 091/825-55-77. Fax 091/825-94-60. 33 units. 220F–250F double; 260F-290F triple. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed mid-Dec to mid-Jan. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (10F per hr.).

Hotel Internazionale Grand, antique, and central, almost immediately adjacent to Bellinzona’s railway station, this pale pink monument of Liberty-style grandeur was built around 1900. In 2010, after a thorough renovation, it reopened with a stripped down and artfully minimalist interior in a stylish, Milan-inspired black, white, and gray theme.

Some of the doubles on the uppermost (fifth) floor are at the more expensive edge of the price spectrum noted below, thanks to sweeping views of the lake and the town. In its accommodations, the hotel successfully blends traditional with contemporary touches such as black-and-white modern pieces, which are in contrast to the old-fashioned wrought-iron staircase or the Belle Epoque stained-glass windows. Even the air-conditioning is eco-conscious, the cool water pumped from an underground source.

Viale Stazione 35, CH-6500 Bellinzona. www.hotel-internazionale.ch. 091/825-43-33. 60 units. 200F–260F double; 250F–340F suite. Rates include breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; exercise room. In room: TV, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat

Locanda Orico ★★★ ITALIAN/FRENCH This is one of the best restaurants in the Ticino, serving a refined cuisine based on market-fresh ingredients. The inn lies in a stately town house at the foot of Castelgrande in the center of Bellinzona. The chef, Lorenzo Albrici, was once a student of Frédy Girardet, hailed as one of the greatest chefs of Europe. The fixed-price lunch menu (45F) is the town’s great dining bargain. An array of warm and cold appetizers is there to tempt you, ranging from house-marinated salmon in a sweet-and-sour sauce to carpaccio of duck liver flavored with sea salt. Baked shrimp are also a starter, floating in an Andalusian gazpacho. Main courses, which are especially delightful, include filet of freshwater lake perch stuffed with green leafy vegetables and filet of roasted veal with rosemary-flavored butter.

Via Orico 13. 091/825-15-18. www.locandaorico.ch. Reservations recommended. Main courses 48F–54F; 6-course menu degustation 115F. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 11:30am–2pm and 7–11pm.

Locarno ★★

22km (14 miles) W of Bellinzona; 40km (25 miles) N of Lugano

This ancient town at the north end of Lake Maggiore ★★★ is a vacation resort known for its mild climate. The rich Mediterranean vegetation includes camellias, magnolias, mimosa, wisteria, azaleas, and oleander in the spring. Olives, figs, and pomegranates also flourish in this climate.

Locarno entered world history in 1925, when an international conference held here resulted in a series of agreements known collectively as the Locarno Pact. It was in Locarno that the former enemies of World War I, seeking to reorder the affairs of Europe, committed themselves to a peaceful coexistence. Locarno was chosen over Lucerne, reportedly, because the mistress of the French representative wanted the meeting to be held on Lake Maggiore. The “spirit of Locarno,” however, did not last long; within a decade the participants were again arming for war.

If you take the electric railway between Locarno and the Simplon Pass, you’ll pass through the Centovalli, named for the hundred valleys that slope toward the river. There are many charming villages on the banks of this river. At Carnedo, in Italy, the railway climbs up to the plateau of Santa Maria Maggiore, a wide, barren, and solitary district that stretches for about 10km (6 miles) at 840m (2,755 ft.) above sea level. A steep descent leads down to the railway junction of Domodossola. This international railway serves as a link between the Gotthard and the Simplon lines. The bridges are technological wonders.

Essentials

Getting There The nearest airport is at Lugano (see section 4, later in this chapter), 45 minutes away by train.

The Locarno-Domodossola electric railway links Locarno with the Italian town of Domodossola. From here, you can continue to Brig in the Rhône Valley, through the Simplon Tunnel. Railway lines connect Brig with Lake Geneva and Bern through the Lotschberg Tunnel. Direct trains from Lausanne or Bern take 4 hours to reach Locarno. From the other direction, through the St. Gotthard Tunnel, Locarno is 23km (14 miles) west of Bellinzona by rail. For rail information and schedules, call 0900/300-300 or see www.sbb.ch.

Locarno sits atop the bus routes that connect Ascona with Lugano, and they continue on to many different mountain villages to the northeast, eventually arriving at Chur. For more details about bus transportation, call the tourist bureau (see below).

After driving through the St. Gotthard Tunnel and reaching Bellinzona on the N2 expressway, take Route 13 west to reach Locarno.

Visitor Information The Locarno Tourist Bureau, on largo Zorzi 1 ( 091/791-00-91; www.maggiore.ch), is open March to October Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm, Saturday 10am to 6pm, and Sunday 10am to 1:30pm and 2:30 to 5pm; November to February, hours are Monday to Friday 9am to 12:30pm and 2 to 6pm.

Attractions

Start your walk around town at Piazza Grande, the main square. On the north side, the arcades are filled with shops. You can find antiques, art, Swiss and Italian handicrafts, and high fashion from Milan.

From piazza Grande, follow the curvy via Francesco Rusca to the Old Town. Along the way, you can visit the Castello Visconteo, Piazza Castello 2 ( 091/756-31-80). This structure is all that survives from a late-medieval castle in which the dukes of Milan lived. It was severely damaged in 1518. Today, the castle contains the Museum Civico, which displays many Roman artifacts excavated in the area. It’s open April to October, Tuesday to Sunday from 10am to 5pm. Admission is 7F.

The most important sight in Locarno is the Santuario della Madonna del Sasso ★ ( 091/743-62-65), on a wooded crag above the resort in the hamlet of Orselina. Hearty visitors and devout pilgrims can climb to the church, at an elevation of 350m (1,148 ft.). However, we recommend the funicular, which leaves every 15 minutes from 7am to 11pm. The round-trip fare is 7F for adults, 3.50F for children. The church was founded in 1480 after a friar, Bartolomeo da Ivrea, reportedly saw a vision of the Virgin. It was reconstructed in 1616. The basilica contains much artwork, including Bramantino’s Flight into Egypt (1520). In a museum next door to the basilica hang masterpieces by such artists as Raphael. Another masterpiece, painted in 1870, is Christ Carried to the Sepulcher, by Antonio Ciseri. This procession scene is most often described as “Caravaggiesque.” The stunning panoramic view ★ can be taken in from the loggia, opening onto the rooftops of Locarno with Lake Maggiore in the distance. The grounds are open March to October daily 7am to 6:45pm. Today, the general public is not admitted at will, but arrangements can be made with the friars by calling in advance and booking a reservation to visit.

One of our favorite pastimes is to go biking along the way. At the train station (Piazza Stazione; 091/743-65-64), you can rent bikes for 28F per day. Bikes can be rented daily 8am to 7pm.

Fleeing the city (not that you would want to), you can take a postal bus (no. 630) to the village of Sonogno in just 1 hour. At the end of the ride, you’ll be in the midst of towering peaks in one of the Ticino’s most scenic valleys, Val Verzasca. After getting off the bus, take the first left and let the yellow signs direct you to Lavertezzo, across shaded glens and riverbeds through perfect and bucolic valley scenery. Allow about 3 1/2 hours to go from Sonogno to Lavertezzo. Should you tire at any time, you can take one of the postal buses that run through the valley.

The Gambarogno Riviera ★★★

The Gambarogno Riviera, with its characteristic Ticinese villages, spreads along Lake Maggiore’s left shore for about 11km (6 1/2 miles) to the Italian border. It begins at Contone, at the foot of the Monte Ceneri, and includes part of the Piano di Magadino (plain of Magadino) as well as a wildlife refuge, Bolle di Magadino, in a delta formed by the Ticino River.

The lush vegetation, the green chestnut forests, and the iridescent colors of the lake—ranging from azure to emerald green—give uniqueness to this well-preserved region. Thanks to its Mediterranean climate, the annual temperatures average 59°F (15°C). In summer, the weather is ideal for all aquatic sports. The Riviera isn’t just a lakeshore, but also a steep mountain sloping up from the lake. On one side it’s crowned by Monte Tamaro, at 1,950m (6,396 ft.) above sea level, and on the other by Monte Gambarogno, at 1,710m (5,609 ft.). It’s this latter mountain that gives its name to the region. There’s a panorama of the Alps from Monte Rosa on the west to the chain of Ticinese Alps on the north.

The region is riddled with some 201km (125 miles) of footpaths. The Locarno Tourist Bureau (see “Essentials,” above) distributes a map indicating every trail; this map also outlines various itineraries with the time that it takes to cover them.

One path indicated on the map provides access to the whole area, from the mouth of the Ticino River to the village of Magadino, from which the biological cycles of local species can be observed. More than 300 different kinds of birds alone live and nest in this tangle of vegetation. Ente Turistico del Gambarogno, via Cantonale, CH-6574 Vira ( 091/795-18-66), arranges guided tours of the area in a rowboat, but only on Thursdays.

Shopping

Most of the merchandise that’s for sale in Locarno is practical instead of glittery. There’s a cluster of fashionable boutiques along Piazza Grande, the centerpiece of the town’s shopping district, but overall, shoppers are usually better off wandering through the sprawling spaces of the town’s three department stores. These are Globus, Largo Zorzi ( 058/578-65-65; www.globus.ch), where a worthy collection of local handicrafts and Swiss souvenirs is for sale; plus the somewhat less upscale but just as comprehensive Manor, Piazza Grande 2 ( 091/756-86-99; www.manor.ch).

Does your proximity to Italy make you thirsty for the fruit of the grape? Two family-run vineyards lie within 3km (2 miles) of Locarno, and both sell bottles of their products. They are Delea, signposted in the hamlet of Losone, a short drive north of Locarno ( 091/791-08-17; www.delea.ch), and Matasci, signposted in the hamlet of Tenero ( 091/735-60-11; www.matasci-vini.ch). Each produces both white and red wines, all of which are for sale.

Where to Stay

Locarno has many good hotels that accommodate travelers on their way to or from Italy. You can also spend a pleasant vacation along the lake here.

Expensive

Hotel Orselina ★★★ This leading hotel was undergoing major renovations in 2011 but should be open and better than ever at the time of your visit in 2012. Guests enjoy a dramatic view from this peaceful five-story oasis in a suburb north of town, accessible by funicular from Orselina. Situated on a hillside, it resembles a Spanish parador. Its sloping lawns, shaded loggias, and many-tiered subtropical gardens may cause you to linger for a month at this tranquil retreat. It’s got everything but a lakeside location (though the lake is visible in the distance). The midsize to spacious rooms are well furnished and comfortable, each with a firm French bed and a balcony facing south. Those in the newer wing are more up-to-date, although all the rooms have been restored.

Via Santuario 10, CH-6600 Orselina-Locarno. www.orselina.com. 091/735-73-50. Fax 091/735-73-51. 74 units. 400F–520F double; 600F–750F suite. Rates include half board. MC, V. Outdoor parking 10F, garage parking 12F. Closed Dec to mid-Feb. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; children’s center; exercise room; Jacuzzi; 2 heated pools (1 indoor); room service; sauna; outdoor tennis court (lit). In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Moderate

Hotel Belvedere ★★ Set on a steep hillside in the upper heights of Locarno, this ocher-colored neoclassical hotel is a beautifully landscaped retreat. It was built in 1910 on the foundations of a 300-year-old house. Reopened in 1990 after 4 years of total restoration, it offers modernized comforts and sweeping views of the lake from each of its streamlined and contemporary bedrooms. All but three of its bedrooms have a private balcony.

Via ai Monti della Trinità 44, CH-6600 Locarno. www.belvedere-locarno.ch. 091/751-03-63. Fax 091/751-52-39. 81 units. 260F–390F double; 370F–500F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 13F. Take Locarno’s only funicular, departing from via Ramogna near the lakefront, to its 2nd stop (Belvedere), a few steps from the hotel. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; exercise room; Jacuzzi; 2 pools (1 saltwater heated indoor); room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (10F per hr.).

Millennium Built at the turn of the 21st century, this hotel is named for the new millennium. Lying in Locarno’s Old Town, it’s a cozy nest of comfort and convenience and was planned from the start to take advantage of the technology of the new century. Each of the small to midsize bedrooms is tastefully decorated, coming with a small bathroom. The building was originally an old Customs house before its conversion to a hotel. Local artists and photographers have contributed some of their works to decorate the public areas. Bedrooms are soundproof and are equipped with such conveniences as a working desk and orthopedic mattresses.

Via Dogana Nuova 2, CH-6600 Locarno. www.millennium-hotel.ch. 091/759-67-67. Fax 091/759-67-68. 11 units. 140F–290F. AE, MC, V. Free parking. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Ramada La Palma au Lac ★ Dating from the mid-1950s (and looking it), this balconied hotel of six- and seven-story buildings faces the lake and is a particular favorite of clients who were young when Queen Elizabeth was. Sun chairs and chaise longues are set up on the terrace. The updated public rooms are decorated with oil paintings and tapestries and retain their 19th-century grace. The elegantly furnished and spacious bedrooms have an Italian flair, and units with private balconies overlook the lake.

Viale Verbano 29, CH-6600 Locarno-Muralto. www.ramada.com. 091/735-36-36. Fax 091/735-36-16. 68 units. 280F–420F double; 460F–520F suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking outside. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (25F per 24 hr.).

Remorino Hotel-Garni ★ In a secluded residential area a short walk from the center of town, this hotel lies only 2 minutes from the lakeside promenade. For almost 3 decades, it has been owned by the Kirchlechner-Qualizza family, which now personally directs the management. All the bedrooms have modern furnishings along with immaculately maintained bathrooms. Try for a bedroom facing the lake. The garden is especially inviting, with its Mediterranean plants such as camellia, magnolia, and olive and palm trees.

Via Verbano 29, CH-6648 Minusio-Locarno. www.remorino.ch. 091/743-10-33. Fax 091/743-74-29. 25 units. 185F–350F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, V. Free parking outdoors, 15F in garage. Closed Nov–Feb. Amenities: Bikes; outdoor heated pool. In room: A/C (in some), TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Rosa Seegarten For good value in Locarno, try this old-fashioned, cream-colored hotel on the lake, a 3-minute walk from the train station. Half board is encouraged. Meals are served on a lakeside terrace under a grape arbor. This is the largest terrace in town, capable of seating between 150 and 200 people. Rooms are comfortable but functionally furnished.

Viale Verbano 25, CH-6600 Locarno. www.rosa-seegarten.ch. 091/743-87-31. Fax 091/743-50-02. 37 units. 220F–330F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Half board 35F per person. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Closed Nov–Feb. Amenities: Restaurant; room service. In room: TV, minibar (in some), hair dryer (in some), minibar (in some), Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

Camelia Surrounded by a sumptuous garden, this hotel in the Muralto section of Locarno is family run and inviting. Its charm lies in its romantic architecture of the early 20th century. The modern bedrooms are comfortable and well maintained. The food is another good reason to stay here, especially if you like Italian specialties. The staff is also most helpful, arranging bungee jumping, rock climbing, canyoning, and other activities (such as helping you rent motorbikes). The hotel also shuttles guests to and from the local train station and the airport.

Via G.G. Nessi 9, CH-6600 Muralto-Locarno. www.camelia.ch. 091/743-00-21. Fax 091/743-00-22. 41 units. 91F–121F per person double. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Closed Nov–Feb. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bikes; Wi-Fi (free, in lobby). In room: TV, hair dryer.

Hotel dell’Angelo In the center of the action, this hotel at the end of piazza Grande is a winning choice even if you disregard its low rates. Reconstructed in 1976, it grew up over the ruins of a building from the late 17th century. Arches on the ground floor and balconies trimmed in iron grace its facade. As with many bargain rooms, the furnishings are sparse—with much use of Formica—but they’re clean and comfortable nevertheless. Freshly starched linens and immaculately scrubbed tile bathrooms complete with bidets make the rooms more appealing. In contrast to the bedrooms, some of the public lounges are more enticing, with paintings and antiques adding a grace note. The hotel’s terrace features views of the town.

Piazza Grande 1, CH-6600 Locarno. www.hotel-dell-angelo.ch. 091/751-81-75. Fax 091/751-82-56. 55 units. 110F–260F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 7F. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: TV, hair dryer.

Osteria Locanda Brack ★ This isolated former farmhouse, both a choice for bed and breakfast or else an out-of-town dining choice (see below), was once a farmhouse in 1919. Before that, there had been some building of some sort on this foundation for centuries. Marco Brack and his wife, Gesa, are your hosts, welcoming you to this much upgraded locanda, or inn. They offer seven cozily furnished bedrooms. Every unit opens onto a scenic view over the Ticino Valley. Bedroom furnishings, though comfortable, are relatively simple but all in good taste. This is one of the most tranquil inns in the area for those who want to escape the bustle of Locarno itself. The location lies midway between Bellinzona (10km) and Locarno (12km).

Viale delle Vigne, Gudo-Progero CH-6515. www.osteriabrack.ch. 091/859-12-54. 7 units. 170F–190F. Rates include breakfast. MC, V. Closed Dec–Feb. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Piccolo One of the town’s smallest hotels is also one of its most affordable. Lying only a 5-minute walk from the city center, it’s convenient for jaunts down to the lake and the train station. Rooms are small but comfortable and handsomely decorated with flowery draperies, duvets, and cane-backed chairs. Each room comes with a tiny but adequate private bathroom.

Via Buetti 11, CH-6600 Locarno-Muralto. www.piccolo-hotel.ch. 091/743-02-12. Fax 091/743-21-98. 21 units. 160F–200F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Nov to mid-Mar. Amenities: Bar. In room: TV, minibar.

Where to Eat

Expensive

Restaurant Cittadella ★ MEDITERRANEAN Located in the center of the Old Town, this restaurant complex is separated from the narrow cobblestone street by a granite arcade draped with vines. The downstairs trattoria has timbered ceilings, stucco walls, and an informal ambience. Upstairs is a chic enclave of cuisine moderne deftly and imaginatively prepared. Specialties include a gooseliver terrine and a salad of large shrimp with nuts and mango. A mixed grill with saltwater and freshwater fish is delicious.

If you don’t object to the often-noisy streets of the historic Old Town, you’ll find 10 simply furnished bedrooms upstairs renting for 150F to 180F for a double, including a buffet breakfast.

Via Cittadella 18. 091/751-58-85. Fax 091/751-77-59. www.cittadella.ch. Reservations required. Restaurant (upstairs) main courses 45F–80F; trattoria (downstairs) main courses 35F–50F, pizzas 15F–20F. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–2pm and 7–11pm.

Moderate

Osteria del Centenario ★★★ ITALIAN There is no finer dining in Locarno than that found here, not even in the restaurants of the most deluxe hotels. The dining room, with austere white walls and straight-back chairs, has a simplicity that contrasts with the colorful creations of Gérard Perriard. The menu is based on fresh ingredients from the market. Seasonal specialties—and delightful ones at that—include sea bass with fennel, foie gras of duck with salad, lobster salad in mango sauce, and stuffed lamb in asparagus sauce. For an unusual first course, ask for a cold consommé of quail eggs garnished with caviar.

Viale Verbano 17, Muralto. 091/743-82-22. www.osteriacentenario.ch. Reservations required. Main courses 20F–47F. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–2pm and 6:30–9:30pm. Closed 2 weeks in Feb and 2 weeks in Nov.

Osteria-Locanda Brack ★★ In this also-recommended inn, in the wine-producing hamlet of Gudo, one of your best farmhouse meals in the Locarno area is likely to be served. In summer, diners sit on a shady terrace perusing the wine list of the region. Mostly organic ingredients, often produce coming from the area, are served here. Freshly made pastas are a specialty, and on any given night you’re offered a choice of seven different kinds. The owner, Marco Brack, has created a pasta misto as his specialty. It is loaded with up to three types of ravioli—stuffed with meat, or else ricotta and spinach, or morels, plus tortellini with pine nuts. He also creates a wide range of risottos. A selection of meat and poultry dishes, plus sumptuous desserts, is also available. The location is between Bellinzona (10km) and Locarno (12km).

Viale delle Vigne, Gudo-Progero. 091/859-12-54. www.osteriabrack.ch. Reservations required. Main courses 28F–35F. MC, V. Thurs–Mon 7–9pm. Closed Sun–Wed and Dec–Feb.

Restaurant La Carbonara SWISS/ITALIAN There’s a well-stocked bar near the entrance of this restaurant, separated from the dining room by a glass partition. The stucco walls are decorated with original paintings and copper pots. Patrons are regaled with perfectly prepared, full-flavored dishes. Specialties include veal kidney with grappa and mushrooms, saltimbocca (veal with ham), and a large pasta menu, featuring macaroni with four different types of cheese. Other dishes include gnocchi in a Gorgonzola sauce and grilled filets of lamb with aromatic herbs, grilled shrimp, and 15 types of pizza.

Piazza Stazione. 091/743-67-14. Reservations not required. Main courses 22F–45F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–midnight.

Locarno After Dark

Nightlife in Locarno may not impress you, as it’s a lot quieter here than in larger, and more extroverted, Ticino cities such as Lugano. So either haul yourself off to Lugano for the night, or drag out your dinner and then have a nightcap in the bar at your hotel. If this idea doesn’t particularly appeal to you, you may opt for a stroll along the lakefront, stopping perhaps at the Café Debarcadero, Lungolago G. Motta ( 091/751-05-55), which stays open every night till midnight. Debarcadero also offers pizzas and pastas for 15F to 20F. Another option is the cozy bar in the Hotel Arcadia, Lungolago G. Motta ( 091/756-18-18), where potted palms, rattan furniture, and black-and-pink marble flooring evoke a Caribbean hideaway. Piano music sometimes accompanies the liquor.

There’s a congenial bar tucked away next to the dining room of the also-recommended Ristorante La Carbonara ( 091/743-67-14).

One of the best piano bars is the Palm’Arte at the Hotel La Palma au Lac, viale Verbano 29, Locarno-Muralto ( 091/735-36-36).

If you’re intrigued with gambling, you may decide to spin the small-stakes wheel of fortune at the town’s obscure and rather dull casino, the Kursaal Locarno, largo Zorzi ( 091/756-30-30; www.casinolocarno.ch). Open every day of the year but Christmas from noon to 3am Monday to Thursday and noon to 4am Friday to Sunday, it offers a small bar area, lots of noisy slot machines, and croupiers at blackjack and roulette tables.

Ascona ★

4km (2 1/2 miles) SW of Locarno; 42km (26 miles) NW of Lugano

Once a tiny fishing port, Ascona has swiftly developed into a resort to rival nearby Locarno. Located snugly on Lake Maggiore, it has long been a popular rendezvous point for painters, writers, and celebrities. Lenin found the place ideal, as did Isadora Duncan and Carl Jung. Rudolf Steiner, Hermann Hesse, and Paul Klee also lived here. Today, Ascona is one of the most popular destinations in the Ticino.

New developments have obscured much of the Old Town cherished by these famous people, but the heart of Ascona is still worth exploring—although you’ll use up a lot of shoe leather. It has colorful little shops, art galleries (some good, some of the souvenir variety), and antiques stores.

Because of its mild climate, Ascona has subtropical vegetation. Flowers bloom year-round. Facilities include a golf course, a lido (beach), and a Kursaal (casino).

Essentials

Getting There Ascona has no railway station of its own, so most train passengers disembark at nearby Locarno and transfer to a bus or taxi for the short ride to Ascona. Locarno has good connections to the region’s major railway junction of Bellinzona, which has frequent express train connections from Milan and Zurich. For rail information and schedules, call 0900/300-300 or visit www.sbb.ch.

A handful of buses connects Ascona with the railroad junction of Locarno, a short distance to the northeast. The bus ride takes 15 minutes, and departures are every 15 minutes and cost 3F one-way. For bus information, call Locarno’s tourist office (see “Essentials” in section 2, earlier in this chapter).

If you’re driving, continue west from Locarno along Route 13.

Visitor Information The Ascona Tourist Board, via B. Papio 5 ( 091/791-00-91; www.ascona-locarno.com), is open mid-March to late October, Monday to Friday 9am to 6pm, Saturday 10am to 6pm, and Sunday 2:30 to 5pm.

Attractions

Collegio Pontificio Papio, off via Cappelle, has one of the most beautiful Renaissance courtyards in Switzerland. Dating from 1584, the building has two-story Italianate loggias. The Chiesa Santa Maria della Misericordia is part of the cloisters of the Collegio Pontificio Papio. Built at the end of the 14th century, it contains one of the largest late-Gothic frescoes in Switzerland.

Casa Serodine (also called Casa Borrani), which lies off piazza G. Motta, was built in 1620 and has one of the most richly embellished facades of any secular structure in the country.

Museo Comunale d’Arte Moderna, via Borgo 34 ( 091/759-81-40; www.museoascona.ch), has both changing exhibitions of modern art and a permanent collection, the latter including works by Klee and Utrillo. It’s open March to December, Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to noon and 3 to 6pm, and Sunday 4 to 6pm, charging adults 7F and students, seniors, and children 5F.

Near the town, Isole di Brissago ★, off the shore of Lake Maggiore, contains a botanical garden of Mediterranean and subtropical flora. The gardens can be reached by boat from the center of Ascona as well as from other lakeside locales, including Locarno. Boats depart Ascona daily at 9:30am and run throughout the day, with the last departure from the island back to Ascona at 6pm. The ride takes 10 minutes and costs 3.80F. Admission to the botanical park is an additional 8F.

You can also visit the little village of Ronco ★★ along the corniche road west, an 18km (11-mile) trip. This very Mediterranean-type village is on a slope in one of the most charming settings in all of the Ticino. Erich Maria Remarque, the German author of All Quiet on the Western Front, lived here and is buried in the cemetery of the little church.

Shopping

Ascona doesn’t place much emphasis on the sale of cutesy souvenirs, so you’ll have to look hard for shops selling only handicrafts. You’ll find postcards and a limited array of smaller, less impressive items imported directly from Italy at newsstands and kiosks in the town’s pedestrian zone, which is centered around via Borgo and its offshoots. More prevalent, however, are stylish shops selling luxury goods, such as crystal at Baccarat, Carrà dei Nasi 22 ( 091/791-21-38). For upscale, Milan-inspired clothing for women, the best shop is Jiuditta, in Contrada Maggiore ( 091/791-20-19). More intriguing are any of the town’s roster of antiques dealers and art galleries. The town’s most appealing antiques store, Monna Lisa, via Collegio 6 ( 091/791-45-52), is managed by Hans-Peter Lehmann and his English/Irish wife, Liz. Inside, you’ll find a worthy collection of china, silver, paintings, and furniture.

Where to Stay

Bus no. 31 from Locarno services the hotels listed below.

Very Expensive

Albergo Casa Berno ★★ Built into a hillside on a forest road above the town, this deluxe hotel, with several balconied wings, is a gem of a retreat. Its good-size rooms are comfortably furnished—some of them with elegant Louis XVI–style chairs. Each room has a concrete balcony with a southern exposure, and all are equipped with beautifully maintained bathrooms. The view extends from Bellinzona (see section 1, earlier in this chapter) to the Islands of Brissago.

Via G. Madonna, CH-6612 Ascona. www.casaberno.ch. 091/791-32-32. Fax 091/792-11-14. 62 units. 420F–504F double; from 586F junior suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Closed late Oct–Mar. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; bikes; outdoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Castello del Sole ★★★ The grandest hotel in Ascona is surrounded by an 8-hectare (20-acre) park and green meadows. This peaceful haven is near the Maggia River, at the point where it flows into Lake Maggiore. It has the atmosphere of a private estate, 2km (1 1/2 miles) from the center of town. There’s an antique palazzo with many courtyards. The spacious public rooms have vaulted ceilings, granite columns, and marble terraces, with one room available for those with limited mobility. The rooms, which come in various shapes and sizes, have balconies and beautiful furniture, along with deluxe bathrooms. The suites are in a building east of the main hotel. Located nearby is the 18-hole golf course Locarno.

Via Muraccio 142, CH-6612 Ascona. www.castellodelsole.com. 091/791-02-02. Fax 091/792-11-18. 85 units. 660F–820F double; 910F–1,130F junior suite; 1,680F deluxe suite. Rates include continental breakfast. Half board 75F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 25F. Closed mid-Oct to Apr. Amenities: 2 restaurants; babysitting; children’s center; exercise room; 2 pools (1 heated indoor); room service; spa; 6 tennis courts (lit). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (30F per 24 hr.).

Hotel Eden Roc ★ This is a large concrete-block hotel with an angular facade and a roofline inspired by a Chinese pagoda. It’s ideally located in the center of town, in a park with flowers and sculpture. A portico by the entrance looks as if it was designed by Le Corbusier. Many of the spacious bedrooms have been upgraded and are fairly stylish, decorated with subtle pastels and rosewood pieces, while others linger in the stuffy, fussy mode. Each room, however, is comfortable, with rows of awning-shaded balconies opening onto views of the garden and the lake.

Via Albarelle 16, CH-6612 Ascona. www.edenroc.ch. 091/785-71-71. Fax 091/785-71-43. 79 units. 300F–790F double; 670F–1,400F suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 40F. Amenities: 4 restaurants; bar; bikes; children’s center; concierge; exercise room; 2 heated pools (1 indoor); room service; spa; limited watersports equipment/rental. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Relais & Châteaux Hotel Giardino ★★★ Although this atmospheric Mediterranean villa is one of four government-rated five-star hotels in Ascona, it’s the most romantically appealing. Set about .4km (1⁄4 mile) from the heart of town, connected by an antique shuttle bus that makes hourly runs back and forth, this glamorous, Mediterranean-style villa was built on a large plot of land in 1986. Today, its structure incorporates Portuguese and Italian tile work, Veronese marble, antique Swiss panels imported from very old Weinstubes in Zurich, and some of the most sophisticated interior decor in the region. The spacious bedrooms are cozy and plushly accessorized. Most alluring of all is the lavish garden (il giardino), whose illuminated lily pond is covered with a movable stage for the entertainment, which is sometimes provided after 8pm.

Via Segnale 10, CH-6612 Ascona. www.giardino.ch. 091/785-88-88. Fax 091/785-88-99. 77 units. 630F–930F double; 1,060F–1,290F suite. Rates include half board. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Closed Nov–Mar. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; spa. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (5F per 30 min.).

Expensive

Hotel Sasso Boretto ★ The entire balconied structure of this hotel seems to be set on top of concrete columns. Glass windows frame the ground floor, which is surrounded by redbrick terraces and Mediterranean trees. Most of the bedrooms (20 are nonsmoking) are decorated in warm, monochromatic tones of brown and beige. The larger ones show Italian flair; the smaller ones are less dramatic but cozy and comfortable nonetheless, with well-maintained bathrooms.

Viale Monte Verità 45, CH-6612 Ascona. www.sassoboretto.com. 091/786-99-99. Fax 091/786-99-00. 44 units. 220F–380F double. Rates include continental breakfast. Half board 50F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 18F. Closed mid-Dec to Feb. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: A/C (in some), TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (5F per 30 min.).

Seeschloss-Castello ★★ This gem will appeal to romantics. The tower was built in 1250 by a countess of Milan from the Ghiriglioni family. It served as the fortified dwelling of the family, which eventually controlled most of the navigation on the lake. Today, palms and palmettos surround the flagstone terrace leading to the stone entryway. Pull the wrought-iron bell handle for assistance. The lobby is filled with antiques, and the spacious rooms are well maintained and comfortable, with private bathrooms. The best rooms—certainly the most romantic—are those in the tower. These are ideal for both honeymooners and off-the-record weekenders.

Piazza G. Motta, CH-6612 Ascona. www.castello-seeschloss.ch. 091/791-01-61. Fax 091/791-18-04. 46 units. 248F–448F double; 528F–648F double in the tower. Rates include buffet breakfast. Half board 38F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking outdoors, 21F in garage. Closed Nov to mid-Mar. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor heated pool; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (5F per 30 min.).

Moderate

Albergo Elvezia au Lac This hotel lies in the heart of the resort town with a cobblestone terrace facing the lake and an indoor dining room just behind it. The upper-story terrace is ringed with vines. Each room, ranging from small to medium, is priced according to its panorama over the lake and whether it has a balcony or terrace looking inward to the city.

Piazza G. Motta 15, CH-6612 Ascona. www.hotel-elvezia.ch. 091/791-15-14. Fax 091/791-00-03. 20 units. 196F–266F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 12F. Closed Nov–Feb. Amenities: Restaurant; room service. In room: TV, minibar.

Hotel la Perla This white-walled hotel is located in a residential area away from the lake. Its small rooms have balconies with a good view of the mountains, and each comes with a private bathroom. Note that there are three extra double rooms separated from the hotel with private bathrooms, but without balconies, costing 320F.

Via Collina 14, CH-6612 Ascona. www.laperla.ch. 091/791-35-77. Fax 091/791-79-62. 50 units. 220F–260F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 8F. Amenities: Restaurant; bikes; outdoor heated pool; room service; sauna; Wi-Fi (free, in lobby). In room: TV, minibar.

Riposo ★ The most tranquil hotel in Ascona is a rather romantic and traditional structure standing in a quiet corner of the Old Town, a 3-minute walk to the lake. It’s in a part of Ascona filled with narrow alleys, art galleries, and fashion boutiques. Each bedroom is individually designed and furnished, each with its own color, art objects, and furnishings; most of them have a private terrace or balcony overlooking Old Town and the lake itself. Breakfast is served in the courtyard or on the roof terrace, and the serving table is filled with homemade jams, Swiss cheese from the Ticino, Italian salami, farm-raised ham, and a variety of freshly baked organic breads and Swiss muesli. The on-site restaurant is worth a visit even if you don’t stay here. It serves a creative regional cuisine with many other specialties from the Mediterranean kitchen. The roof terrace is the major allure of this hotel; it’s decorated with subtropical plants and has a heated pool surrounded by natural rocks.

Scalinata della Ruga 4, CH-6612, Ascona. www.hotelriposo.ch. 091/791-31-64. Fax 091/791-46-63. 32 units. 180F–350F double. Rates include buffet breakfast buffet. MC, V. Parking 17F. Closed mid-Oct to mid-Mar. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bikes; outdoor pool; room service. In room: TV.

Tamaro du Lac ★ A welcome is painted in Latin above the huge arch leading into the flagstone reception hall of the original core of this gracious lakefront hotel, which was formerly an abbey. Farther on is a sky-lit central courtyard, with vines growing over the massive vaults of the arcade surrounding it. In the early 1990s, a comfortable, very quiet annex was added a few steps from the main building. The owners have decorated the interior with antiques and some romantic artifacts. The bedrooms, although lacking great style, are comfortably furnished and well maintained.

Piazza G. Motta 35, CH-6612 Ascona. www.hotel-tamaro.ch. 091/785-48-48. Fax 091/791-29-28. 51 units, 41 with bathroom, in main building; 10 units, all with bathroom, in annex. 180F–290F double with bathroom, 130F–150F without bathroom. Rates include buffet breakfast. Half board 33F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 11F in private garage, 9F in private parking outside. Closed Dec–Mar. Amenities: Restaurant; bikes; room service; 1 outdoor tennis court (lit). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Where to Eat

The harbor of Ascona is lined with many restaurants. Most guests dine outside during the summer, by the lake. There are also many fine restaurants on the cobblestone streets of the Old Town.

Expensive

Al Pontile ITALIAN/FRENCH Many of the restaurants along the quays look alike and have similar menus, but the decor here, with a darkly rustic interior and hanging straw lamps, seems a little warmer and more intimate than elsewhere. The food is better, too. The menu might include quail with risotto, osso buco, and saltimbocca (veal with ham), in addition to a variety of good pasta dishes. Fish dishes include scampi, sole, and salmon. For dessert, we recommend one of the homemade pies.

Longalago G. Motta 31. 091/791-46-04. Reservations not required. Main courses 35F–50F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2:30pm and 6–9:30pm.

Aphrodite/ECCO ★★★ FRENCH/ITALIAN These two restaurants are in the most desirable deluxe hotel in Ascona, about .4km (1⁄4 mile) from the center of town. Aphrodite, the more elegant and formal, requests that men wear jackets and ties for meals served on a flowering terrace within view of a water garden and plenty of greenery. Menu specialties change every week, but include perfectly prepared modern choices such as tea-smoked duck breast, wild sea bass with a saffron tomato risotto, or marinated fresh uncooked tuna in lime oil with sautéed vegetables. The chef prepares 16 different fixed-price menus whose composition changes daily, based on the seasonal ingredients available.

ECCO is in a cozy environment reminiscent of a mountain hideaway, with old-fashioned menu items similar to what your Italian-Swiss grandmother might have prepared for you when you were a child. Portions are copious.

In the Relais & Châteaux Hotel Giardino, via Segnale. 091/785-88-88. Reservations recommended. Aphrodite main courses 65F–101F; ECCO main courses 22F–88F. AE, DC, MC, V. Aphrodite daily 12:30–2pm and 7–9:30pm. ECCO Wed–Sun 7–9:30pm. Closed mid-Nov to mid-Mar.

Moderate

Al Torchio ITALIAN The first room of this rambling restaurant offers a rustic decor, red candles, and designs painted on the plaster walls. On a warm night, you may continue past the American-style salad bar in the back and turn left into the vine-covered courtyard. The well-prepared menu may include rabbit with leeks in beer sauce, filet of lamb, a divine risotto with porcini mushrooms, a winter fondue, and a succulent spaghetti with clams. An especially delectable dish is homemade tagliolini stuffed with pulverized fish and shrimp and served with a tomato sauce flavored with olive oil and fresh herbs. For dessert, try the gelato misto (a mixed selection of ice cream) or a sorbet with vodka. There’s a garden-style piano bar in a summery courtyard.

Contrada Maggiore 1. 091/791-71-26. Reservations recommended. Main courses 20F–44F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2pm and 6–10pm. Closed Tues in winter.

Osteria Nostrana PIZZA/PASTA This is one of the most active harborfront restaurants in Ascona, with sidewalk tables overlooking the lake and its fashionable promenade. The rustically comfortable dining room serves the town’s best and most reasonably priced pastas and pizzas. They also feature daily specials, sometimes as many as 15 per day, depending on the season and what’s good at the market. The best pasta is the spaghetti alla carbonara (with meat sauce), although the linguine ai fruitti di mare (with shellfish) is a close runner-up, as is the fusilli with heavy cream and ham. For a superb pizza, opt for the Siciliana with anchovies and black olives or the prosciutto e funghi (ham and mushrooms).

Lungolago G. Motta. 091/791-51-58. www.osteria-nostrana.ch. Reservations not necessary. Pasta and pizzas 23F–28F; main courses 32F–39F. AE, DC, MC, V. Summer daily 9am–1am; winter daily 9am–midnight.

Ristorante Borromeo ★ SWISS/ITALIAN Dating from around 1350, this former monastery and Catholic school is one of the most popular restaurants in the region, noted for its outdoor terrace. Local residents flock to its three rustic rooms with high ceilings. The kitchen staff is versatile, knowing how to prepare the best of both the Italian and Swiss kitchens. They use very fresh ingredients and don’t oversauce. The menu may include risotto Milanese with saffron, a mixed grill, piccata Marsala, trout, scampi, and an especially good osso buco. On our recent rounds, we especially enjoyed saltimbocca (veal with ham), served with a potato gnocchi.

Via Collegio 16. 091/791-92-81. Reservations recommended. Main courses 29F–46F. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–2pm and 6–10pm. June–Aug Mon 6–10pm.

Ascona After Dark

Ascona is quiet and calm, with not nearly as energetic a night scene as, say, nearby Lugano. A likable bar favored by those seeking live music is Piper, via Aerodromo 3 ( 091/791-13-74). Finally, an establishment noted for its ability to provide feminine companionship for unaccompanied men is Happyville, via Borgo 42 ( 091/791-49-22), where a tiny dance floor is a lot less important than the seductively lit stage. Strip shows are usually presented nightly beginning around 11:30pm.

Lugano ★★★

32km (20 miles) S of Bellinzona; 229km (143 miles) S of Zurich

Lugano is a Swiss town with an Italian flavor. The Italian influence is evident in the city’s cafes, sunny piazzas, cobblestone streets, and arcades. It’s a city designed for walking. You can wander at leisure, exploring its historic old streets.

Lugano is built along the shore of Lake Lugano ★★★, which the Italians call Lake Ceresio. The peaks of San Salvatore and Monte Brè loom on opposite sides of town. The low mountains protect it from cold alpine winds, and the climate is ideal from March to November. As the cultural center of the Ticino, Lugano has attracted many artists and casual visitors.

Essentials

Getting There The airline Darwin Airline, Aeroporto Lugano ( 0848/177-177; www.darwinairline.com), provides air links between Lugano and Zurich. Taxis await visitors at the Lugano airport for the 10-minute ride to the center of Lugano.

Lugano is a major stop along the rail lines that connect Milan with Zurich. As such, trains from all parts of Switzerland arrive throughout the day and night. For rail information and schedules, visit www.sbb.ch or call 0900/300-300. Rail passengers arrive at the Lugano railroad station, Piazzale della Stazione, which is in the center of the city, west of piazza Indipendenza. If your luggage is light, you can walk to many of the hotels; if not, you can take one of the taxis waiting outside the station.

Lugano is linked by bus to dozens of hamlets in the Ticino that lack rail connections. There are also long-range trains that come from Italian cities: Como (trip time: 45 min.), Venice (trip time: 5 hr.), and Milan (trip time: 90 min.).

If you’re driving, pass through the St. Gotthard Tunnel and continue south along N2, via Bellinzona, all the way to Lugano.

Getting Around An explanation of fares and ticket machines can be found in a brochure distributed by the tourist office and the Public Transport Board, Trasporti Pubblici Luganesi, via Maraini 46 ( 058/866-72-42; www.tplsa.ch).

You must purchase a ticket before boarding a bus or a train. If you’re caught without one, you may have to pay a 55F fine. You can purchase a 1-day ticket from automatic ticket machines for 5F. This ticket allows you unlimited travel for 24 hours from the moment you purchase it. It includes the Funicular Lugano–Main Street SBBM, but not line 12, Lugano-Brè.

For taxi service, call 091/922-88-33.

The town of Lugano and the lakefront itself are ideal for bikers. You can rent a bike at the railway station in Lugano ( 051/221-56-42), at ticket window no. 1. Prices begin at 28F per day, depending on the type of bicycle.

Visitor Information The Lugano Tourist Office is at Riva Albertolli 5 ( 058/866-66-00; www.lugano-tourism.ch). From April to October, hours are Monday to Friday 9am to 7pm, Saturday 9am to 5:30pm, and Sunday 10am to 5pm. November to March, it’s open Monday to Friday 9am to noon and 2 to 5:30pm, and Saturday 10am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 5pm.

City Layout The center of town is piazza Riforma, dominated by a neoclassical city hall constructed in 1844. From here, you can explore the ancient streets of the Old Town on foot.

Lugano is built along several lakeside quays, of which Riva Albertolli, Riva Vincenzo Vela, and Riva Antonio Caccia are the most important. They are ideal for long, leisurely walks. They run from piazza Cassarate to piazza Paradiso.

Other major squares of Lugano, also by the lake, are Piazza Riziero Rezzonico and Piazza Alessandro Manzioni, the latter with gardens.

The biggest park of Lugano, also opening onto the lake, is the Parco Civico, site of the casino, the Palazzo dei Congressi, and the town’s large swimming pool.

Directly east of the center is Castagnola, a suburb and site of the Villa Favorita, with its celebrated collection of art.

Towering over Lugano are two hills, Monte San Salvatore, at 898m (2,945 ft.), and Monte Brè, at 918m (3,011 ft.). They’re ideal for full- or half-day excursions.

Attractions

The city tourist office (see “Essentials,” above) offers a walking tour with a guide on Mondays at 9:30am, April to October. These free tours depart from the Palazzo Civico at the Piazza Riforma.

In Town

Parco Civico ★★ is the city park along Lake Lugano. It contains the Palazzo dei Congressi (the convention center), the casino, and the Villa Ciani art museum. Outdoor concerts are presented in the summer.

Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (St. Lawrence), via Cattedrale, in the Old Town, was originally a Romanesque church. It was reconstructed in the 13th and 14th centuries and overhauled in the 17th and 18th centuries. It has three outstanding Renaissance doorways and a baroque interior. Look for the 16th-century tabernacle at the end of the south aisle; it was designed by the Rodari brothers of Maroggia.

The major church is the Chiesa di Santa Maria degli Angeli (Church of St. Mary of the Angels), Piazza Luini, located on the south side of the resort. This church was built at the end of the 15th century and is known throughout the Ticino for its frescoes ★★ by Bernardino Luini, the Lombard painter. His huge fresco The Crucifixion dates from 1529. Many critics have compared the beauty of his work to that of Leonardo da Vinci. Art critic John Ruskin found an “unstudied sweetness” in Luini’s work. The church was occupied by Franciscans until 1848.

Nearby Attractions

The best way to discover the small lakeside villages around Lugano is to rent a bike at the railway station (see above) and set off to explore. Arm yourself with a good map from the tourist office and head for the nature reserve of Origlio Lake, proceeding to Ponte Capriasca, where you can visit a parish church with a copy of Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper. From here, you can continue to the villages of Tesserete and Colla along the left valley side of Cassarate, going through the woods with a marked trail to Sonvico. On your way back to Lugano, you’ll pass through the idyllic villages of Dino, Ponte di Valle, and finally Lugano. In all, the trip takes in about 37km (23 miles) and can be done in about 4 hours.

Swiss Miniature Village Small replicas of the major buildings in Switzerland are displayed along a labyrinth of asphalt paths. There’s also a miniature of the twin castles in Sion. You can purchase an official guidebook for detailed explanations. This attraction is especially popular with children.

Via Cantonale, Melide-Lugano. 091/640-10-60. www.swissminiatur.ch. Admission 19F adults, 12F children 15 and under. Daily 9am–6pm. Closed Nov to mid-Mar. Take a train from Lugano Village.

Villa Heleneum Lying 4km (2 1/2 miles) northwest of Lugano, this landmark building is along the much-frequented walk to Gandria. It contains the Museum of Extra-European Cultures, which exhibits objects from Oceania, Indonesia, and Africa. The collection was donated by Serge Brignoni, an exponent of the surrealist movement. There’s also a center for ethnographic studies, as well as a library annexed to the museum.

Via Cortivo 24, Lugano-Castagnola. 058/866-69-60. Free admission. Tues–Sun 2–7pm. Bus: 1.

The Active Vacation Planner

Watersports are popular in Lugano; you can also bike or play golf and tennis.

Boating You can rent rowboats and motorboats along the lakefront.

Sailing Go to Circolo Velico, Lago di Lugano, Foce Cassarate ( 091/971-09-75; www.cvll.ch), which charges 15F to 20F per hour or 55F to 100F for a half-day, depending on the size of the boat.

Scuba Try Lugano-Sub, Riva Paradiso 23 ( 091/994-37-40; www.luganosub.ch).

Swimming The Lido ( 091/971-40-41) is a sandy stretch of beach along the lake. You can also relax on the lawn or eat at the cafeteria on the terrace. Admission to the Lido is 10F for adults, 5F for ages 9 to 20, and 3F for children 8 and under. Rental of a cabana costs another 20F, plus a 10F deposit. The beach is open in the summer daily from 9am to 7:30pm. In addition, many hotels have heated pools, some with salt water.

Water-skiing The Club Nautico-Lugano, via Calloni 9 ( 091/994-12-56), between Lugano and Melide, charges 150F per hour, instruction included.

Windsurfing You can windsurf on the lake at Club Nautico-Lugano, via Calloni 9 ( 091/994-12-56), between Lugano and Melide. The cost is 20F per hour.

Shopping

Its role as capital of Italian-speaking Switzerland almost guarantees that Lugano’s selection of merchandise will include a cosmopolitan blend of Teutonic and Mediterranean merchandise. Most of it can be viewed along either side of the resort’s main shopping street, via Nassa.

You’ll find five floors of department-store shopping at everybody’s favorite large store, Manor, Piazza Dante ( 091/912-76-99; www.manor.ch). A roughly equivalent department store, with some gift items and more of an emphasis on foodstuffs, groceries, hardware, and housewares, is Migros, via Pretorio 15 ( 091/913-72-13). If you’re looking for chocolates and pastries, head for a bakery that many locals remember from their childhood, Münger, via Luvini 4 ( 091/985-69-43; www.munger.ch).

Where to Stay

Lugano has hotels in all price categories. Many are located in the suburbs of Paradiso, Cassarate, and Castagnola.

Very Expensive

Hotel Splendide Royal ★★★ The splendor of the 19th century is evident in the elegant architecture of this mansard-roofed hotel. Built in 1888, the Splendide Royal has welcomed many famous people (and even a few infamous ones). Maria, queen of Romania; Vittorio Emanuele di Savoia; George H. W. Bush; and Sophia Loren have stayed here. The public rooms are decorated with columns, crystal-and-gilt chandeliers, Venetian furniture, and Oriental rugs. Guests have a choice of bedrooms, either in the flowery rooms of the original landmark wing, where some rooms contain ceiling frescoes, or in the 1983 modern wing, where the decoration is in soft colors and the furnishings in a streamlined beech. The swimming pool is shaped like an oyster, and there’s a rock garden.

Riva A. Caccia 7, CH-6900 Lugano. www.splendide.ch. 091/985-77-11. Fax 091/985-77-22. 96 units. Apr–Oct 460F–660F double, 1,330F suite; Nov–Mar 360F–510F double, 970F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. Half board 85F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking outdoors, 30F in garage. Bus: 1. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; babysitting; concierge; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (25F per 24 hr.).

Principe Leopoldo & Residence ★★★ This extravagant mansion lies on a panoramic hill site, Collina d’Oro (Golden Hill), in an exclusive neighborhood overlooking the lake. The villa was built in 1868 as the home of Prince Leopold, of Austria’s von Hohenzollerns. After World War I, it was sold to a Swiss industrialist. In 1986, the villa was transformed into the Ticino’s smallest luxury hotel, with an understated Italian style. Today, it’s our favorite hotel in Lugano. There’s a modern addition with a two-story atrium and a cascade of illuminated water. The suites have beige travertine trim, and each spacious room has a terrace overlooking the lake and the suburb of Paradiso. The hotel has more amenities and services than any other in the Ticino, including deluxe toiletries, well-lit vanity mirrors, pressing facilities, and even complimentary shoeshines. The hotel restaurant is one of the finest and most elegant in the Ticino (see below).

Via Montalbano 5, CH-6900 Lugano. www.leopoldohotel.com. 091/985-88-55. Fax 091/985-88-25. 77 units. 410F–790F double; from 1,350F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. Children 11 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 25F. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; airport transfers (free); babysitting; concierge; exercise room; 2 outdoor heated pools; room service; spa; 2 outdoor tennis courts (lit). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Expensive

Grand Hotel Villa Castagnola au Lac ★★★ The beauty of this ocher, Mediterranean-style villa across the street from the lake is enhanced by its exotic trees and plants—even banana trees, no less. The public rooms contain marble or parquet floors; some have large fireplaces in consonance with their baronial decor. Each spacious bedroom is uniquely and luxuriously furnished, decorated tastefully in Mediterranean styling. The manager has instructed his staff to pay attention to even the smallest detail to make guests feel at home. All rooms open onto views of the lake and the subtropical park.

Viale Castagnola 31, CH-6906 Lugano. www.villacastagnola.com. 091/973-25-55. Fax 091/973-25-50. 93 units. 400F–560F double; from 700F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. Half board 70F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking outdoors, 18F in garage. Bus: 1. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; exercise room; indoor heated pool; room service; spa; 2 outdoor tennis courts (lit); limited watersports rentals. In room: A/C (in most units), TV, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (10F per hr.).

Moderate

Delfino As modern as tomorrow, this hotel in the Paradiso section of town lies close to the lakeshore next to a pedestrian area that leads into the heart of town. Its rooms open onto balconies. Bedrooms are streamlined, sleekly furnished, and most comfortable. Most of the standard rooms offer twin beds but some have queen-size beds. The star attraction here is the swimming pool opening onto a wide sun terrace.

Via Casserinette 6, CH-6900 Lugano. www.delfinolugano.ch. 091/985-99-99. Fax 091/985-99-00. 49 units. 199F–290F double. Rates include buffet breakfast buffet. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15F. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; pool (outdoor); room service. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Internet (free), minibar.

Holiday Inn Lugano Centre This first-class chain hotel was built in 1975 out of concrete and glass and is today one of the finest hotels on the outskirts of Lugano. The seven-story high-rise is near the Lugano-Sud exit from the main highway. Many of the public rooms have red leather accents and wood trim. The showplace salon has French-style armchairs, Oriental rugs, and large windows with a view of the garden. The bedrooms are quite comfortable and well equipped.

Via Geretta 15, CH-6902 Lugano-Paradiso. www.holiday-inn.com/luganocentre. 091/986-38-38. Fax 091/986-38-39. 92 units. 155F–320F double. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking outdoors, 20F in garage. Bus: 1 or 9. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; exercise room; 2 heated pools (1 indoor); room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (12F per hr.).

Hotel du Lac Architecturally bandboxy and lacking style, this hotel nonetheless offers much comfort and value. Owned by the Kneschaurek family since 1920, it was reconstructed in the early 1960s. Renovated and improved over the years, it enjoys a lakefront location with its own private swimming area in front. All the midsize to spacious bedrooms have been updated with the installation of improved plumbing. All open onto lakeside vistas; the most desirable accommodations—and the most tranquil—are on the sixth floor.

Riva Paradiso 3, CH-6902 Lugano-Paradiso. www.dulac.ch. 091/986-47-47. Fax 091/986-47-48. 53 units. 246F–434F double; 500F–550F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 14F. Amenities: Restaurant; babysitting; bikes; exercise room; Jacuzzi; outdoor heated pool; room service; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Lugano Dante In the heart of town, only a short walk from the lake, this moderately priced hotel opens onto the Piazza Cioccaro in a pedestrian zone. It is one of the best and most well-run hotels in its category. Five different sets of accommodations are offered, ranging from standard doubles and executive rooms to junior suites and luxurious suites. Rooms are soundproof, and the hotel is especially proud of its deluxe mattresses. The breakfast buffet is one of the best in town.

Piazza Cioccaro 5, CH-6900 Lugano. www.hotel-luganodante.com. 091/910-57-00. Fax 091/910-57-77. 83 units. 300F–330F double; 370F executive room; 420F junior suite; 490F suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 33F. Amenities: Bar; babysitting; access to nearby gym. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, CD player, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

Pestalozzi An older hotel from the 1920s, it lies in the commercial core of Lugano, a 2-minute walk to the lakefront. Comfortable, with a sense of stripped-down efficiency, and a favorite with cost-conscious travelers including students, it follows a strict no-alcohol policy except for bottles which clients bring into their rooms. This is a four-story hotel, and the 20 bedrooms without private bath are on the second floor. Rooms are well maintained and simply furnished in a rather functional way. In certain days in summer, some of the upper rooms can get uncomfortably hot—there is no air-conditioning.

Piazza Indipendenza 9, CH-6901. www.pestalozzi-lugano.ch. 041/921-46-46. Fax 041/922-20-45. 54 units. 116F double without bathroom; 176F–186F double with bathroom. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: TV (in some), Wi-Fi (free).

San Carlo Garni Modern decor, fully renovated rooms, and low rates have made this a popular spot with visitors. Via Nassa is a great shopping street, located in the heart of the city, so it is easy to get to just about anywhere in Lugano from the hotel. The lakefront is only a block away. The rooms are very small, but they have all the basics and more. The staff is friendly and attentive, happily giving tips about the best places to see and go. There is a breakfast room, but there are only a few tables, so either get up early or have your meal delivered to your room.

Via Nassa 28, CH-6900 Lugano. www.hotelsancarlolugano.com. 091/922-71-07. Fax 091/922-80-22. 44 units. 150F double. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 25F. Amenities: Room service. In room: TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Zurigo Located near several points of interest, such as parks and the waterfront promenade, this value hotel has become a popular spot in Lugano. Midsize to spacious rooms are modern and brightly furnished. Refurbishing has upgraded the hotel to a new level in spite of the linoleum floors. If you’re going when the weather will be warm, know that the more spacious superior accommodations are the only ones equipped with air-conditioning. Any other part of the year, however, standard rooms are just as comfortable. For those looking for some rest and relaxation, the north-facing rooms are quieter most of the time.

Corso Pestalozzi 13, Old Town, CH-6900 Lugano. www.hotelzurigo.ch. 091/923-43-43. Fax 091/923-92-68. 40 units. 180F–210F double. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 15F. In room: A/C (in some), TV, minibar (in some), Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat

Expensive

Principe Leopoldo ★★★ INTERNATIONAL Excellent regional and international cuisine is combined with a luxury setting in three rooms to make award-winning meals. The chef creates memorable dishes here, especially his divine risottos, one made with Gorgonzola and pears, another a green risotto with lobster and fresh herbs. The chef will dazzle you with his steamed sea bass filet with fresh tomatoes or his roasted turbot with Mediterranean “perfumes.” We also like his beef sautéed with duck livers and morels. Some dishes, such as roasted Scottish lamb with fine herbs, are prepared only for two. Hors d’oeuvres are the finest at the resort, everything from a quail salad with peaches and walnuts to lobster medallions on a carpaccio of fennel and oranges. Although the menu is international, it is strongest on Ticinese and Mediterranean dishes. Each tantalizing course comes with superb wines in perfect condition.

In the Villa Principe Leopoldo & Residence, via Montalbano 5. 091/985-88-55. Reservations required. Main courses 29F–55F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2:30pm and 7–9:30pm.

Ristorante al Portone ★ SWISS/ITALIAN If you enjoy Italian-style modern cuisine, head for this sophisticated restaurant As with all cuisine moderne, many of the combinations sound bizarre, but the taste is usually sensational. Large scampi with curry and mango and the sole are veritable palate pleasers. If you order the most expensive fixed-price menu, you can lascia fare à Roberto—leave it up to Silvio Galizzi, the chef. You’ll rarely be disappointed: Roberto is known for putting his own culinary spin on even the most traditional of Italian dishes. The desserts are also exceptional.

Viale Cassarate 3. 091/923-55-11. www.ristorantealportone.ch. Reservations required. Main courses 46F–58F. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat noon–2pm and 7:30–9:30pm. Closed Jan 1–10 and mid-July to mid-Aug.

Ristorante Orologio ITALIAN/INTERNATIONAL The Orologio occupies the ground floor of a buff-colored building with restrained detailing and leaded-glass windows. The restaurant has 19th-century French Provincial chairs and an ice chest displaying salads and condiments. Amusing illustrations advertise the dishes—a mermaid draws your attention to the fish courses, although the menu features more meat courses. In September and October, there’s an emphasis on game and mushroom dishes, such as the filet of venison with porcini mushrooms or the platter of venison for two. Pheasant dishes are also well prepared. Of all the restaurants we’ve recommended in Lugano, this one draws the most mixed reaction. Some locals and foreign visitors swear by it while others swear to avoid it.

Via Nizzola 2. 091/923-23-38. www.ristorante-orologio.ch. Reservations recommended. Main courses 39F–58F. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–3pm and 7–10:30pm. Closed Aug. Bus: 1 or 2.

Ristorante Santabbondio ★ MEDITERRANEAN Its amiable, hardworking staff refers to the restaurant as a much-renovated, century-old grotto, but they’re using the word to describe a rustic farmhouse (ca. 1862) rather than a cave. It’s less than a mile south of Lugano, midway between the town center and the airport. Menu choices are based on a solid and well-intentioned respect for cuisine du marché, incorporating a roster of market-fresh specialties that changes every day. In a setting suitable for up to 50 diners at a time, outfitted in Tuscan-made terra-cotta tiles and tones of green and white, you’ll enjoy some of the most sophisticated cuisine in the district. Examples include tartare of salmon served with a parfait of tomatoes and shrimp, Scottish grouse roasted in aged balsamic vinegar, scallops in a ginger-flavored orange-and-basil sauce, grilled filets of turbot with capers, and medallions of goat with wine sauce. Martin Dalsass is the well-rehearsed chef.

Via Fomelino 10. 091/993-23-88. www.ristorante-santabbondio.ch. Reservations recommended. Main courses 42F–72F; fixed-price menus 138F–158F. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat noon–2:30pm and 7:30–10:30pm; Sat 7:30–11pm. Closed Jan–Feb.

Moderate

Note: The following restaurants can be expensive if you order the two or three highest-priced dishes, but most of the main courses are priced at the lower end of the scale.

Locanda del Boschetto ★ SWISS/ITALIAN The place doesn’t spend much money on decor, other than some rustic alpine wood, and no one puts on airs here. Service is direct in the sort of no-frills trattoria style. Guests can watch the chef cook beef and fish over the glowing coals. He produces a simple but flavor-filled cuisine, which includes a mixed grill of local fish, spaghetti with clam sauce, grilled calves’ liver, and several succulent beef dishes. The well-known restaurant is in a wooded area near the highway.

Via Boschetto 8. 091/994-24-93. Reservations recommended. Main courses 23F–56F. AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–2pm and 7–10pm. Closed 2 weeks in Aug. Bus: 1 or 2.

Osteria Calprino ★ SWISS/NORTHERN ITALIAN In the suburb of Paradiso, about 1.5km (1 mile) from the center of Lugano, this is one of the best trattorias in the area. Decorated in a rustic provincial style, the restaurant is unpretentious with wooden furniture and a terra-cotta floor. The typical regional cuisine uses market-fresh ingredients, as well as tried-and-true recipes from grandmother’s pantry. Start with the pumpkin soup or freshly made minestrone. An old-fashioned dish (not for modern dieters) is a savory bean stew with pork rinds. Try also the grilled shrimp with fresh vegetables or else grilled beefsteak with polenta. A house specialty is fresh porcini mushrooms stir-fried with garlic and parsley and served with polenta on the side. Yet another specialty is roast suckling pig.

Via Carona 18. 091/994-1480. www.osteriacalprino.ch. Reservations recommended. Main courses 20F–35F. MC, V. Thurs–Tues noon–2:30pm and 7–10:30pm. Closed Aug.

Inexpensive

La Tinera ★ SWISS/ITALIAN A familiar array of Italian specialties are served at budget prices in this basement trattoria in the center of the historic Old Town. No one bothers to dress up here, as families, often Italian, mingle with visitors for the day, each “tucking in” plenty of the regional fare served in generous portions. Fresh pasta dishes, risotto, and a robust selection of grilled meats are cooked the same as in grandmother’s day—and no one would want to change a thing. Regional wine is served in ceramic carafes.

Via dei Gorini 2 (off piazza Riforma). 091/923-52-19. Reservations not accepted. Main courses 19F–28F. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–3pm and 5:30–11pm. Closed last week of July and 1st 3 weeks of Aug. Bus: 1 or 2. Or walk down via Pessina.

Near LUGANO

Motto del Gallo ★★ MEDITERRANEAN For a visual treat, visit this baroque house practically bursting with atmosphere. There’s a collection of antiques and the tables are covered with lace. The restaurant is in a 15th-century hamlet that alone is worth the trip—13km (8 miles) from Lugano on the road to Bellinzona. The excellent menu features a selection of homemade pastas, including green tagliolini with scampi. Two types of risotto are offered, one of them cooked delectably in champagne. Fresh fish looms large on the menu, including a selection of gratinée with zabaglione. Main meat dishes are likely to include a veal mignon, veal kidneys cooked with sherry, a mixed medley of meats, or perhaps alpine-style lamb roasted aromatically with fresh herbs. Instead of dessert, such as one of the cold soufflés, many diners prefer to end their meal with a regional cheese of the Ticino. The wine list includes some 500 wines from all over the world.

If you’re looking for a romantic place to spend the night, there are three well-maintained suites here, which cost 280F for two, including breakfast.

CH-6807 Taverne. 091/945-28-71. Fax 091/945-27-23. www.mottodelgallo.ch. Reservations required. Main courses 29F–52F; menu dégustazione 75F; 8-course menu 150F. AE, DC, V. Tues–Sun noon–2pm and 7–10pm. Take the unnumbered bus or local train marked taverne.

Lugano After Dark

Lugano reigns as the center of the Ticino’s nightlife circuit, with options that attract local residents from quieter towns throughout the district. The most obvious options involve visits to either of the two casinos described below.

Casinos

Casino Lugano This casino features 350 slots, 26 table games, two elegant restaurants, and five bars. Games of chance include American roulette, blackjack, French roulette, Caribbean stud poker, punto banco, poker, and wheel of fortune. Entrance is free, but visitors must show a passport. It’s open Sunday to Thursday noon to 4am, and Friday and Saturday noon to 5am. Via Stauffacher 1. 091/973-71-11. www.casinolugano.ch.

Casino Municipale This casino lies on Italian soil, across the lake from Lugano, only 20 minutes away by ferry. The casino is a glittering establishment, filled with an international clientele and such games as blackjack and chemin de fer, along with the inevitable slot machines. Here, in Italy, gambling stakes are unlimited. Oddly, however, despite the casino’s location, the currency is Swiss. Patrons must show a passport, and men must have a jacket, tie, and shirt on—a policy that’s strictly enforced.

The casino is in the village of Campione, which, because of the vagaries of 19th- and 20th-century politics and because of the rugged terrain around it, is completely surrounded by Switzerland. Even its telephone area code is the same as Lugano’s. Long ago, the imperial fiefdom of Campione was presented to a Milanese monastery, and it has remained Italian ever since. The men of Campione were famous for their stonework, and many buildings in Milan are a testament to their skill. Take a moment to admire their handiwork in some of the local buildings. ID is required for admission. Hours are Sunday to Thursday 10:30pm to 5am, and Friday and Saturday 10:30pm to 6am. Piazzale Milano 1, Campione, Italy. 091/640-11-11. No cover. www.casinocampione.it.

Other Nightlife Offerings

Other than gambling, you’ll find a dense roster of bars and cafes, many of them lining the edges of the historic center’s most famous square, piazza Riforma. One of the most interesting is the Café Olimpia ( 091/922-74-88), an elegant stone building with hundreds of chairs set out in front and a focus on live music some evenings. A few steps away is the Café Tango ( 091/922-27-01; www.tango-ti.ch), more like a bar than a traditional cafe, where an Argentine motif (and recorded music) often attracts clients from everywhere in Europe.

If striptease artistes are your thing, consider Dancing Cécil, Via Guisan 3, in the nearby suburb of Lugarno-Paradiso ( 091/994-97-24). It’s open daily from 10pm.

Morcote ★★

11km (7 miles) S of Lugano; 40km (25 miles) S of Bellinzona

Morcote is one of the most idyllic villages of Switzerland. Its arcaded houses and old streets are built on the southern slopes of Monte Arbostora, at 826m (2,709 ft.). Cypresses and vineyards grow on the mountain.

Essentials

Getting There Several buses depart from Lugano every day for Morcote (trip time: 30 min.).

Throughout the summer about a dozen boats make the trip every day from Lugano to Morcote, with many intermediary stops along the way. Depending on the schedule, trip time is between 50 minutes and 2 hours. The round-trip boat fare is 34F. In winter, boats continue to run, but on a less frequent schedule.

For bus and boat schedules and information, contact the tourist office (see below).

If you’re driving from Lugano, head south along Route A4.

Visitor Information Morcote now has its own tourist information office in the center ( 058/866-49-60; www.promorcote.ch). Office hours are May to September Monday to Friday 8:30am to 12:30pm and 1:30 to 5:30pm; Saturday and Sunday 10am to noon and 1 to 5pm.

Attractions

Chiesa di Madonna del Sasso dates from the 15th century; it was reconstructed later, however, and given a baroque overlay. It has some memorable 16th-century frescoes. A staircase with more than 400 steps leads down to the village and the lake, and the cemetery contains the remains of many famous people.

Scherrer Park ( 091/996-21-25) contains typical Ticino trees and plants, as well as sculpture and architecture. Some of the sculpture is from the Far East. Admission is 7F for adults, 6F students and seniors, 2F children 16 and under. It’s open March to October daily from 10am to 5pm.

Where to Stay

Carina Carlton ★★ This hotel has an Italian-style facade, with pink-and-cream trim and lime-green shutters. Such lighthearted contrast of colors also marks the lobby, which is decorated with Oriental rugs. The hotel’s several terraces are filled with potted plants and small tables. A structure of whimsical design, it was once owned by the architect Gaspare Fossati (1809–83), a native of Morcote, who was known for his renovations of Saint Sophia in Constantinople (present-day Istanbul). Some of the awards he received from the Ottoman sultan are displayed in the lobby. The Carina Carlton offers midsize bedrooms filled with provincial furniture (some of it antique).

Riva da Sant Antoni, CH-6922 Morcote. www.carina-morcote.ch. 091/996-11-31. Fax 091/996-19-29. 23 units. 160F–310F double; 250F–340F suite. Rates include continental breakfast. Half board 50F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed mid-Oct to mid-Mar. Amenities: Restaurant; outdoor heated pool; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Swiss Diamond Hotel ★★★ The best and most elegant hotel lies outside Morcote in the village of Vico, 4km (2 1/2 miles) to the northeast on the shores of Lake Lugano. This hotel is elegantly modern and very deluxe, among the finest in all the Ticino. A personalized welcome awaits you, along with a sublime decor that takes in crystal chandeliers, marble floors, and columns in Sicilian travertine. Bedrooms are beautifully furnished and equipped with modern technology, and each comes with a cozy sitting area. The most desirable units face south with sliding windows overlooking the lake and the village. From the goose-feather duvets to the oversized bath towels, everything here focuses on la dolce vita.

One of the reasons to stay here is the cuisine, which is classic and international but also lighter in sections for more modern tastes. For a romantic evening near the lake, the Lago Restaurant, with its Mediterranean specialties, is recommended. More formal dining can be found at the Panorama, with its seasonally adjusted menu. A private boat takes guests on a tour of the lake. The Wellness Centre, an elegant spa decorated like an ancient Roman thermal bath, is one of the finest in the Ticino.

Riva Lago Olivella, CH-6921 Vico-Morcote. www.swissdiamondhotel.com. 091/735-00-00. Fax 091/735-00-99. 86 units. 295F–565F double; 500F–650F junior suite, from 805F suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; babysitting; bikes; exercise room; 2 pools (1 heated indoor); room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (10F per hr.).

Where to Eat

Dellago ★ SEAFOOD Directly on the lake with a terrace, this is a favorite of both locals and visitors. This restaurant and its 50-room hotel lie in the village of Melide outside Lugano. Delicious dishes—classic but with creative touches—are prepared, the cooking based on the sublime products of the Ticino. The chefs have a talent for sauces and combining flavors. Start with such delights as spicy Thai prawns on a lemon-grass skewer served with a mango and pineapple chutney, or a salad of green asparagus and papaya served with Ticino goat cheese and a hot rhubarb and walnut dressing. Among the main dishes, we savor the crispy pan-fried filet of salmon trout with an orange- and basil-laced pesto or the organic beef filet steak with a honey and coriander sauce. Desserts are advertised as sinful but they are also delightful, especially the chilled green-apple soup with a walnut-stuffed “cigar” and coconut ice cream, and the creamy poppy seed mousse with dates laced with a caramel and orange sauce.

The restaurant also rents individually furnished bedrooms, with such extras as “massage showers” and a hot tub on the roof. Other surprising extras include an espresso machine and a free minibar. Each room comes with a safe and a small but modern bathroom with shower. Rates for a double range from 190F to 430F.

Lago di Lugano, CH-6815 Melide, 10km (6 miles) south of Lugano. 091/649-70-41. Fax 091/649-89-15. www.hotel-dellago.ch. Main courses 33F–49F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–2pm and 6:30–11pm.

Ristorante della Posta SWISS/ITALIAN Established in 1863, this restaurant features two terraces staggered back from each other overlooking the lake. It operates from the center of Morcote. Waiters scurry with food-laden trays from the kitchen across the street. The setting is charming, but the traffic makes it somewhat hectic. Delectable specialties include risotto with mushrooms, osso buco with polenta, fresh lake fish, and real Italian pizza. Fresh fish is the chef’s specialty, and it’s most often served grilled. There are also several different preparations of fresh mushrooms offered nightly, and the veal cutlet Milanese is always reliable.

In the Albergo della Posta, via Cantonale. 091/996-11-27. www.hotelmorcote.com. Main courses 28F–55F; pizza 16F–22F. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 8am–midnight. Closed Nov to mid-Mar.