Chapter 16: Liechtenstein

With a history dating from the 14th century, Liechtenstein is a wonderful land of fairy-tale castles (one inhabited by the reigning prince), chalets decorated with geraniums, Rhine meadows, and small villages high in the Alps.

Separated from Switzerland by the Rhine River, it’s one of the smallest independent sovereign states of Europe, along with San Marino in Italy and Andorra in the Pyrenees. The entire country is only about 26km (16 miles) long and 6km (4 miles) wide. Most residents of Liechtenstein, who are largely of German origin, speak a German dialect. English is also understood throughout the country.

Liechtenstein is famous for its finely engraved postage stamps, which are treasured by collectors the world over. The stamps illustrate the country’s religion (predominantly Roman Catholic), monarchy, art, history, landscape, nature, and leisure activities. Stamps provide 25% of the government’s income, and new series are introduced all the time. There’s a postal museum in Vaduz, the capital of the principality.

Although commonly regarded as remote, Liechtenstein is actually very accessible from eastern Switzerland. A number of good roads link the two countries, and there are no border formalities or Customs stops. There are guards at the Austrian border, but they rarely stamp visitors’ passports.

The ideal way to explore Liechtenstein is to wander around. Every village has a network of hiking and walking routes, which the locals themselves put to good use. Marked hiking routes cover 150km (93 miles) in the alpine area and 119km (74 miles) in the valley, which, considering the country’s size, takes up a huge chunk of the land space.

Malbun and Steg are ideal starting points for mountain tours, and Gaflei and Planken (the tiniest hamlet in the country) are departure points for the Drei Schwestern area. The tourist office (see “Information” in “Fast Facts: Liechtenstein,” below) has a pamphlet outlining the best hiking trails throughout the Unterland (Lower Country), the Oberland (Upper Country), and the alpine region.

Guided half- or full-day tours are arranged every Thursday in summer by the Liechtenstein Alpine Association. Routes depend on weather conditions and are published on the Saturday preceding the tour in local newspapers under a column headed “Wanderungen des Liechtensteiner Alpenvereins.” For information and registration, contact the guide given in the announcement.

About Liechtenstein

Liechtenstein

Orientation

Geography The Rhine River forms Liechtenstein’s western boundary; the Swiss canton of St. Gallen is on the other bank. To the east is the Austrian province of Vorarlberg, and to the south are the Grisons of Switzerland. Liechtenstein is cradled by the Drei Schwestern (Three Sisters) mountains.

People About 35,000 citizens live in 11 communes (comparable to Switzerland’s cantons). Most—more than 80%—are Roman Catholic and of German ancestry. They enjoy one of the highest standards of living in the world and pay very little in taxes. Unemployment is rare.

The country’s prosperity, however, is a relatively recent development. Many old-timers remember the hardships of World War I, when the country was virtually cut off from food supplies because of blockades. The social and economic growth since the end of World War II has exceeded that of any other Western nation. Today, Liechtenstein is one of the most highly industrialized countries in Europe. The industry is hardly noticeable, however, because the factories and workshops are dispersed among orchards, meadows, and woodlands. There are no smokestacks, with their pollution from fumes. One of the industrial specialties is the production of false teeth.

Liechtenstein has a rich cultural life, supported by royal patrons and the cooperation of neighboring countries. Though open to foreign influences through commerce and cultural exchanges as well as through tourism, Liechtenstein maintains its unique national identity by severely restricting citizenship. Any foreigner wishing to become a citizen must first be approved by a majority of the commune he or she intends to live in; then his or her application must be approved by parliament, and then by the monarch. The process is obviously meant to discourage immigration.

Language Most residents of Liechtenstein speak a German dialect. English is also understood throughout the country.

Government The Principality of Liechtenstein is a constitutional hereditary monarchy with a unicameral parliament (Diet). The state power is vested in the prince and the people. The prince’s powers are passed on through hereditary succession to the throne and are independent of the will of the people. The people also have political power and must work together with the prince, according to the constitution.

Members of the parliament are chosen for 4 years by general elections. The right to vote is universal (women received the right to vote in 1984), secret, and direct. Public referendum is an important right of all citizens. Any law passed by the Diet that is not declared urgent may be put to referendum. The constitution also assures freedom of speech, freedom of the press, and freedom of assembly.

Liechtenstein has a prime minister and four councilors, appointed by the prince for a 4-year term. They act as a link between the prince and the Diet.

Liechtenstein made world headlines in 2003 when its prince, Hans-Adam II, demanded and got sweeping powers in a nationwide referendum. If he weren’t granted these powers, he had threatened to move to Austria. Desperate to hold onto their prince, 64.3% of the electorate voted to give him such rights as the power to dismiss governments and approve judicial nominees. The revised constitution also allows the prince to veto laws simply by refusing to sign them within a 6-month period. The prince likened the opposition to “World War II traitors.” One supporter, Adriana Dill, told the press: “The country should be exactly the way the prince wants to have it. It’s his country. It has his name on it.” Former prime minister Mario Frick said otherwise, claiming the referendum made Liechtenstein “an international laughingstock.”

Essentials

Getting There The nearest airport is Kloten International Airport outside Zurich, about 130km (80 miles) to the west of Vaduz. There is both train and bus transportation into Liechtenstein from Zurich.

Many express trains pass through Liechtenstein, but none stop there. You can take a train from Zurich to Sargans or to Buchs in nearby Switzerland. Call 0900/300-300 or visit www.sbb.ch for rail schedules. At both Sargans and Buchs, you’ll find good bus connections to Vaduz and other communes in Liechtenstein.

If you’re driving from Zurich, head southwest along N3 until you reach the junction with N1, and then take N1 north to the turnoff for Vaduz.

Liechtenstein

Currency The Swiss franc is legal tender in Liechtenstein; the exchange rate is the same as in Switzerland (see “Money & Costs,” ).

Documents Required All travel documents recognized by Swiss authorities are valid in Liechtenstein. However, you’ll encounter the formalities of any western European border crossing if you enter through Austria.

Holidays Public holidays are January 1 (New Year’s Day), January 6 (Epiphany), February 28 (Mardi Gras), Good Friday, Easter Monday, May 1 (Labor Day), May 25 (Feast of the Ascension), June 5 (Whit Monday), June 15 (Corpus Christi), August 15 (Feast of the Assumption), September 8 (Nativity of Our Lady), November 1 (All Saints’ Day), December 8 (Feast of the Immaculate Conception), December 25 (Christmas), and December 26 (Boxing Day).

Information For further information about the principality, contact the Liechtenstein National Tourist Office, Städtle 37 (P.O. Box 139), FL-9490 Vaduz, Liechtenstein ( 00423/239-63-00; www.tourismus.li). The office is open daily 9am to 5pm.

Mail The postage rates are the same as in Switzerland (see chapter 17). But you must, of course, use Liechtenstein stamps.

Medical Needs Doctors and dentists take turns handling emergency calls (the names of those currently available are published in the Sat and Sun newspapers). Your hotel will put you in touch with an English-speaking doctor or dentist. Phone 144 for an ambulance.

Telephone To call Liechtenstein from the U.S., dial your international prefix (usually 011), followed by Liechtenstein’s country code 00423, followed by the seven-digit local number. To call Liechtenstein from anywhere in Switzerland or anywhere else in the world, dial whatever international prefix is required at the phone you happen to be using, followed by the country code for Liechtenstein (00423), followed by the seven-digit local number.

Vaduz ★

130km (80 miles) E of Zurich; 38km (24 miles) E of Chur

Vaduz (pronounced Va-dootz) is the capital of the Principality of Liechtenstein. Vineyards surround this little town (pop. about 5,000) at the foot of the royal family’s castle. The rural commune, known for its good wines, is also very hospitable and sociable to visitors. The capital is most often visited on a brief stopover—just time enough to buy some of the famous postage stamps and record the visit to this tiny country in your passport. But as the capital of one of the last vestiges of the Holy Roman Empire and the seat of the only German-speaking monarchy in the world, Vaduz merits a closer look—at least to walk its streets and visit some of its museums.

Essentials

Getting There See “Essentials” in “About Liechtenstein,” above.

Visitor Information See “Information” in “Fast Facts: Liechtenstein,” above.

Attractions

Traffic is allowed one-way on the main street, Städtle. Also at the center of Vaduz is the Rathaus (town hall). The post office is across the street. Vaduz offers a wide range of sports and entertainment. Facilities include a miniature golf course, tennis courts, and a large swimming pool.

One of the best ways to get around Vaduz—and other parts of the country—is to rent a bike or a small motorcycle. Rentals are possible at Bike Garage, Landstrasse 323 ( 00423/390-03-90; www.bikegarage.li). The cost is 35F per day for the average bike.

The prince’s castle, Schloss Vaduz, dates from the 12th century. The oldest parts are the keep and the buildings on the east side. The castle was burned down by Swiss troops in 1499 and rebuilt at the beginning of the 16th century. It has round bastions at the northeast and southwest corners. Once a bleak and gloomy fortress, the castle is much improved. The interior—not open to the public—contains lavish furnishings, antiques, and priceless artwork. The exterior of the fortress is surely worth seeing. The climb along the wooded footpath takes 20 minutes and starts between the Hotel Real and the Hotel Engel. There’s a sweeping vista from the grounds of the castle.

In the upper village, on the road to the castle, is the Red House. This was the seat of the vassals of the counts of Werdenberg during the Middle Ages. The house was acquired along with the vineyard by the Monastery of St. Johann in the Toggenburg.

Briefmarkenmuseum (Stamp Museum) Philatelists and other admirers come from all over the world to see the Liechtenstein stamps. The collection includes the stamps of the Universal Postal Union, printing plates, and postal documents. Liechtenstein’s first stamp dates from 1912. The museum was opened in 1930.

Städtle 37. 00423/236-61-05. Free admission. Daily 10am–noon and 1–5pm.

Kunstmuseum Liechtenstein ★★ Regrettably, some of the greatest art treasures amassed by the princes of Liechtenstein have been transferred to the Palais Liechtenstein in Vienna. However, there is much left of the works of Old Masters at this modern museum, along with a constantly changing exhibition of contemporary art. Most of the collection is from the 1800s to the present day. It is so up-to-date that there are even works from the 21st century. You can also dine on sushi at the restaurant. The location is in the center of Vaduz between the pedestrian zone (Städtl) and the Aulestrasse.

Städtle 32. 00423/235-03-00. www.kunstmuseum.li. Admission 12F adults; 8F students, seniors, and children 6–16; free for children 5 and under. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm (Thurs until 8pm).

Shopping

If there’s any flash and glitter in Liechtenstein at all, it appears only in very subdued form. You may notice this during your shopping excursions, which are best limited to central Vaduz, a neighborhood that can never really escape the sense of being a somewhat overgrown village. An outlet that sells gift items from Liechtenstein, Austria, Italy, and Switzerland is L’Atelier, Städtle 36 ( 00423/232-46-88). Its merchandise, as selected by the outfit’s longtime owner, Hélène de Marchi, includes lamps, dolls, hand-painted silks, stoneware, pewter, and other handmade objects.

Liechtenstein has been famous since the turn of the 20th century for its rustic and durable pottery, produced in natural-looking colors such as blue, beige, and yellow, in factories that lie within a 10-minute drive of Vaduz. The larger of the principality’s two factories for stoneware is Schaedler Keramik A.G., which straddles Churer Strasse ( 00423/373-14-14), the main street of the hamlet of Nendeln, 8km (5 miles) north of Vaduz.

The principality’s premier outlet for wines produced by vineyards belonging to the prince is the Hofkellerei des Fürsten Liechtenstein, Feldstrasse, Vaduz ( 00423/232-10-18). Set in a solid, not particularly imaginative-looking building that’s owned by the prince, it stockpiles the fruit of his family’s vineyards, most of which are either in the principality or in Lower Austria (Niederösterreich) just across the border. Look for both whites and reds—and a somewhat heavy-handed emphasis on the organization’s royal connections.

When shopping, don’t overlook the Liechtenstinian postal service, which produces more stamps than are ever used to actually mail letters. One of the busiest emporiums in the principality is the bureaucratic-looking kiosk in the main post office, Postwert Zeichenstelle der Regierung, Städtle, FL-9490 Vaduz ( 00423/236-64-44). Here stamps that commemorate Liechtenstein’s history, botany, zoology, and achievements are sold to avid collectors, and even to folk who never thought they were collectors.

Where to Stay

Most of Liechtenstein’s hotels are in the capital.

Very Expensive

Park Hotel Sonnenhof ★★★ The finest hotel in the principality (a Relais & Châteaux) is also among the finest in Europe. Diplomatic receptions are held here frequently. Built in the late 1800s, the hotel has been modernized into a streamlined chalet, with balconies and awnings. The garden is beautiful, and the spacious, elegant rooms are handsomely decorated and furnished with luxury beds and state-of-the-art plumbing.

Mareestrasse 29, FL-9490 Vaduz, Liechtenstein. www.sonnenhof.li. 00423/239-02-02. Fax 00423/239-02-03. 29 units. 410F–650F double; 560F–720F junior suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking outdoors, 15F in garage. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; bikes; indoor heated pool; room service; spa. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Moderate

Gasthof Löwen ★ Set on the highway within a pleasant and well-cultivated garden, this is the oldest inn (established in 1380) in Liechtenstein. Few others evoke old-fashioned alpine life as effectively as this one, thanks to its antique rooms outfitted with furniture that was originally crafted around 1920, and a clear, clean color scheme of stark white offset with varnished paneling. Bedrooms come in a variety of sizes and shapes, but all are comfortably Middle Europa, with dowdy furniture, soft beds, crisp linens, and plumbing that still works (though often noisily).

Herrengasse 35, FL-9490 Vaduz, Liechtenstein. www.hotel-loewen.li. 00423/238-11-44. Fax 00423/238-11-45. 7 units. 299F–369F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. From Vaduz, take the bus marked feldkirch. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service; Wi-Fi (free, in lobby). In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Residence ★ In the heart of the pedestrian zone of Vaduz, below the castle, this hotel is the most modern in the principality. It hardly lives up to the romantic, traditional atmosphere of Liechtenstein, but for those seeking the latest in comfort, it’s superb. The decor is almost Japanese in concept. The hotel is sleek and commercial, with the latest technology. Bedrooms contain custom-designed wood furniture, and each comes with a work desk and computer. The hotel also operates one of the country’s best restaurants, serving market-fresh ingredients deftly prepared.

Städtle 23, FL-9490 Vaduz, Liechtenstein. www.residence.li. 00423/239-20-20. Fax 00423/239-20-22. 24 units. 320F–340F double; 405F–505F suite. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking 10F. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: A/C (in some), TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Inexpensive

Landhaus am Giessen Located a 5-minute walk east from the town center, this structure dates from 1917, when it was built as the home of a prosperous conservative burgher. Today, it retains the solid and well-grounded aura of its original function. The public areas are covered with flagstone floors, while the small bedrooms have wall-to-wall carpeting and durable, reliable country-style furnishings, including private bathrooms.

Zollstrasse 16, FL-9490 Nendeln, Liechtenstein. www.giessen.li. 00423/235-00-35. Fax 00423/235-00-36. 22 units. 160F–180F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. MC, V. Free parking. Closed Oct–Mar. Amenities: Jacuzzi; indoor heated pool; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat

Residence Restaurant ★ SWISS/INTERNATIONAL In this also-recommended hotel lies one of the finest dining rooms in the principality. A wide range of regional flavors and international specialties are served in a first-class setting. In the summer months, tables are placed on a flower-filled terrace. One of the most skilled sommeliers in Vaduz will guide you through the extensive wine carte. The cuisine is seriously classical, but the chef manages to hit a few contemporary and personal notes. For starters, consider such dishes as a mixed salad of fried chicken strips, mushrooms, and fresh tomatoes, or else the salad of sautéed garlic prawns. A selection of vegetarian dishes is also offered, or else you can enjoy such delights as a caramelized filet of salmon in a curry-and–lemon grass sauce, or else truffled breast of guinea fowl with polenta and a grappa sauce.

Städtle 23. 00423/239-8787. Reservations recommended. Main courses 24F–46F. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–2pm and 6-10pm.

Restaurant Torkel ★ FRENCH The prince owns this charming country inn on the site of an old wine press. It’s in the royal vineyards on the outskirts of town; park your car and follow the signs a short distance to a low-lying building. The cuisine, though never accused of being overly imaginative, is satisfying and most filling, and a true regional flavor of central Europe. Seasonal specialties are likely to include veal dishes, filet goulash Stroganoff, and freshwater fish in Riesling sauce, as well as rösti dishes. Wine is available from the royal cellars, including a house variety of the local sparkling wine (sekt). The menu changes every day, offering only what is fresh at the market.

Hintergasse 9. 00423/232-44-10. www.torkel.li. Reservations recommended. Main courses 34F–59F. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 6:30–11:30pm.

Vaduz After Dark

Conservative—and according to its critics, drab—Liechtenstein can’t even begin to compete with the nightlife options of larger cities in Switzerland. Your best bet will probably involve retiring early after a nightcap at your hotel bar. Discos aren’t really a factor here. A noteworthy bar, however, is Vanini Bar, a youthful, high-energy meeting place in the Hotel Adler, Herrengasse ( 00423/232-21-31).

The Unterland

Formed by the Rhine Valley, Liechtenstein’s Unterland (Lower Country) is at the foot of the Drei Schwestern (Three Sisters) mountains. It contains eight villages along the slopes of the Eschnerberg and five parishes. The landscape is a rugged mix of wooded hills, meadows, and clean brooks. Agricultural and industrial development has not been allowed to damage the environment.

The Eschnerberg Historical Trail is an extensive network of footpaths. The Eschnerberg hills were a refuge for prehistoric settlers, offering an islandlike setting in the marshy Rhine Valley. The marshes have since been drained. A hike here is pleasant and informative. You’ll learn the history of the people who have lived in this region.

All the villages recommended below are on the postal-bus route from Vaduz. The Vaduz tourist office will provide a map outlining the various routings and transportation connections possible.

Schellenberg

This second-smallest parish in the principality (pop. 605) also has the smallest surface area. It was already settled when the New Stone Age began. Some of the Iron Age artifacts displayed in the National Museum in Vaduz were unearthed here. The Herren (nobles) von Schellenberg built two castles here in the Middle Ages. One of the castles, the Obere Burg Schellenberg, has been restored and offers a good view. Schellenberg is a starting point for the Eschnerberg Historical Trail.

Where to Stay & Eat

Wirthschaft zum Löwen ★★ CONTINENTAL For your most authentic regional meal, you can drive 10km (6 miles) north of Vaduz off Route 16 to Schellenberg. Here in this shingled farmhouse, dating from the 14th century, you can be served the principality’s best regional cuisine, with old-time recipes that no longer appear on most menus.

The Swiss influence is strong but you are also served various French and Austrian dishes, even Portuguese. Local specialties feature home-style cooking, including game in season. You can sample such good-tasting dishes as roast duck breast in a honey and ginger sauce or filet of beef in a truffle sauce. One of the most elegant dishes is filet of turbot in a champagne sauce with caviar.

The owner, Damian Beck, spent time in Portugal’s Algarve, and the menu reflects that experience—try the Portuguese seafood risotto or the Portuguese-style shrimp sautéed with chili peppers and garlic.

The inn also rents traditionally furnished bedrooms upstairs, doubles ranging from 199F to 349F nightly. Featured are satellite TV, a minibar, and free Wi-Fi.

Off Route 16, Schellenberg. 00423/373-11-62. Reservations required. www.lowen.li. Main courses 15F–38F. AE, MC, V. Fri–Tues noon–2:30pm and 7–10pm. Closed Wed–Thurs.

Mauren-Schaanwald

These two villages are a mile apart, in a parish covering only 5 sq. km (3 sq. miles). Mauren is one of the most beautiful sights in Liechtenstein. It was called Muron in 1178 and today is known as the “Village of the Seven Hillocks.” The remains of Roman baths and a 2nd-century farmhouse or outbuilding have been excavated here. The village is also known for its fine church, dating from 1787. The meadows and woodlands between Mauren and Schaanwald have been designated a bird sanctuary. The preserve contains a conservation pond and a nature trail. The villages are on the Schaan-Feldkirch road leading to Austria.

Gamprin-Bendern

This small parish along the Rhine has picture-postcard charm. The two hamlets on the west spur of Eschnerberg are rich in archaeological discoveries. Excavations have shown that the area was inhabited continuously from about 2500 b.c. to the Roman era. Discoveries around Gamprin have yielded many clues about the culture of the New Stone Age. The remains of a farm and a small church dating from a.d. 55 have been found on the hill on which the Bendern church stands today. This church belonged to the Convent of Schanis (St. Gallen) from 809 to 1177 and to the Monastery of St. Luzi (Chur) from 1200 to 1816. After the Reformation, the St. Luzi monks built a larger structure, which included the abbot’s quarters.

It was at Bendern’s Kirchhügel that the men of the lowlands swore loyalty to the prince of Liechtenstein in 1699. It’s very scenic and includes a fitness track, a history trail, and a campground. The Mariengrotte (Mary’s Grotto) at Bendern is the only shrine of its kind in the country.

Eschen-Nendeln

Eschen was first mentioned in the Carolingian land registry in 850 under the name Essane, derived from the Celtic word esca, meaning “by the water.” The water refers to the Esche, a nearby brook. Flint artifacts from the Middle Stone Age, about 5000 b.c., have been found here, and New Stone Age settlements have been excavated at Malanser and Schneller. The upper part of Eschen, Schönbühl, is one of the country’s most attractive residential areas.

The parish includes the village of Nendeln, in which the foundation of a Roman villa and a prehistoric settlement have been discovered. Nendeln lies 5km (3 miles) northeast of Schaan, on Route 16.

Several buildings in the area are worth a visit. The Pfründhaus is a prebend structure, where the clergy lived. Holy Cross Chapel, on the Rofenberg, was formerly a place of public assembly. The restored church at Eschen has the original walls of the old church laid bare. Other churches include St. Sebastian’s Chapel and the Rochus Chapel. Liechtenstein’s first industrial enterprise was a tile factory founded at Nendeln in 1836. For a century, it was the only industrial plant in the Unterland.

There’s a pool in Eschen and a health trail in Nendeln. You can also enjoy the peaceful mountain footpaths of the Eschnerberg trail.

Where to Stay & eat

Hotel Engel This is one of two hotels with the same name in Liechtenstein, a fact that causes lots of confusion to visitors arriving in the principality for the first time. A 10-minute drive north from Vaduz, near the principality’s biggest ceramic factories (recommended separately in “Shopping” in section 2), the hotel has a dark, modern facade and a large, antique wine press in the yard. Seasonal flowers and plants add freshness to the public areas, a fact that appeals to some local residents, who like to congregate in the hotel on Sunday mornings. The midsize bedrooms are simple, durable, and very clean; 10 have a phone and TV.

Churer Strasse 1, FL-9485 Nendeln, Liechtenstein. 00423/373-31-31. Fax 00423/373-12-60. 17 units. 130F–210F double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. In room: TV (in some), phone (in some).

The Oberland

The Oberland (Upper Country) of Liechtenstein was the former estate of the count of Vaduz. It consists of Vaduz and five parishes or communes: Planken, Schaan, Triesen, Triesenberg, and Balzers. Although the area is in the south of Liechtenstein, it’s still known as the Upper Country because of topography. The Unterland (Lower Country), to the north, is filled with meadows and hills gently rising from the Rhine Valley, while the Oberland, from Planken on south, consists of higher country, reaching up to the Liechtenstein Alps.

In the shadow of the Drei Schwestern mountains, the Oberland abounds in woodlands and mountain trails, alpine flowers, and protected animal species. Settlements founded by Swiss immigrants some 700 years ago still retain their ancient traditions. There are plenty of opportunities for recreation throughout the region, but the alpine portion is the best place for winter sports.

All the villages and hamlets discussed below are reached by postal bus from Vaduz. Pick up a map at the tourist office in Vaduz (see “Essentials,” earlier in this chapter), where you can also learn about possible routings and schedules.

Planken is the starting point for excursions to the Drei Schwestern (Three Sisters) area. From here, you’ll have an outstanding panoramic view of the Rhine Valley and the Swiss mountains extending from Pizol to Lake Constance. A chapel here dedicated to St. Joseph contains copies of old masters and a bronze cross by Georg Malin.

Schaan

Located on the Arlberg railway line, at the foot of the Drei Schwestern, 3km (2 miles) west of Vaduz, Schaan is the country’s main communications center. The Carolingian land registry (ca. a.d. 831) lists Liechtenstein’s second-largest parish under the name Scana. Archaeologists have discovered the remains of a Roman fort, two Roman legionnaires’ helmets from the 1st century a.d., and an Alemannic decorative shield from the 6th or 7th century. The 12th-century Romanesque church is worth a visit.

There’s a sports center ( 00423/233-35-25) near a forest, offering tennis courts, a health center, an indoor swimming pool, public baths, and a children’s playground. You can also hike in the mountains.

Theater a Kirchplatz ( 00423/237-59-69; www.tak.li) is one of the important cultural centers of the region. It presents international artists.

Where to Stay & eat

Dux Hotel This Iberian-style country house is a superior tourist-class hotel. Built in 1924, it has a large sun terrace and long wrought-iron balconies. The rugged mountains loom in the background, and there are several old oak trees on the lawn. The comfortable, midsize rooms have wood ceilings and modern amenities, including well-maintained private bathrooms.

Duxweg 31, FL-9494 Schaan, Liechtenstein. 00423/232-17-27. Fax 00423/232-48-78. 10 units. 126F–150F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. MC, V. Free parking. Closed Feb and the 1st 3 weeks of Sept. Amenities: 3 restaurants; room service; sauna. In room: TV, minibar.

Hotel Linde This is the town’s hotel bargain. The semibaroque facade has a single ornate gable and a pumpkin-colored extension. Well-pruned hedges shield the sun terrace from street traffic. The clean and comfortable, but small, rooms are functionally furnished. The hotel’s restaurant (closed Sun) serves a very limited but reasonably priced menu.

Feldkircherstrasse 1, FL-9494 Schaan, Liechtenstein. www.hotel-linde.li. 00423/232-17-04. Fax 00423/232-09-29. 23 units. 144F–170F double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (20F per day).

Hotel Sylva im Sax ★ This little chalet in the woods is so inviting that you may want to anchor here for the night and make the easy commute to Vaduz. It’s about a block above the main road. A mother and daughter, Friederecke and Sylva Eberle, offer well-furnished rooms and a sauna. The largest room is laid out for business travelers and includes a fax machine and a second telephone. The restaurant serves some of the best food in the area.

Saxgasse 6, FL-9494 Schaan, Liechtenstein. www.hotel-sylva.li. 00423/232-39-42. Fax 00423/232-82-47. 12 units. 166F–260F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.

Schaanerhof This is a modern hotel with a pink-and-white facade and balconies on several sides. The interior is comfortable and warm, and the bedrooms are well furnished and maintained. The main dining room serves Italian, Austrian, and Asian dishes, with a revolving monthly menu featuring different cuisines of the world.

In der Ballota 3, FL-9494 Schaan, Liechtenstein. www.schaanerhof.li. 00423/232-18-77. Fax 00423/233-16-27. 28 units. 176F–440F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, V. Free parking. Closed mid-Dec to mid-Jan. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; exercise room; Jacuzzi; sauna. In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Triesenberg

The largest parish of Liechtenstein has stretches of woodland, scrub, farmland, and pasture. High above the Rhine Valley is the village Triesenberg, containing about 2,000 inhabitants, reached by taking a hill road out of Vaduz. The road is filled with steep bends but offers extensive views. The farming community is developing into a center for light industry and tourism.

Triesenberg, like Planken, was settled in the late 13th century by Swiss immigrants from the Valais. Many of the parish residents wear colorful regional garb. Modern materials and methods are used to build the houses, but the style dates from the early 14th century. The influence of the Valais is evident. The restored town hall is elegant.

You can visit the Heimatmuseum (Valais Heritage Museum), which traces the culture of these immigrants. Artifacts, including tools, crafts, and furnishings, depict their life, that and a 20-minute slide show in English. The museum ( 00423/262-19-26) lies at Dorfzentrum, charging an admission of 2F. It’s open Tuesday to Friday 1:30 to 5pm and Saturday 1:30 to 5pm; additionallly, from June to August the museum is open Sunday 2 to 5pm.

At 780m (2,558 ft.), Triesenberg is a good base for excursions to the Liechtenstein Alps. Excellent highways and well-tended hiking trails lead from Triesenberg to the alpine resorts: Masescha (1,230m/4,034 ft.), Silum (1,500m/4,920 ft.), Gaflei (1,500m/4,920 ft.), Malbun (1,575m/5,166 ft.), and Steg (1,380m/4,526 ft.). Steg is on the way to Malbun and features the Valuna-Lopp cross-country skiing center and a ski lift. The .8km (1⁄2-mile) Gnalp-Steg tunnel connects the valley with the alpine area.

Where to Stay & eat

Hotel Kulm Spring blossoms cascade down the balconies of this centrally located hotel with a pink and light-grained wood facade. It offers a wide view of the valley, with a sidewalk cafe in front. The interior is a mix of rustic and modern styles. The furniture is comfortable in the well-maintained bedrooms, each with a private bathroom.

Dorfzentrum, FL-9497 Triesenberg, Liechtenstein. www.hotelkulm.li. 00423/237-79-79. Fax 00423/237-79-78. 20 units. 70F–110F per person double. Rates include buffet breakfast. Half board 44F per person. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; room service. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Hotel Restaurant Steg This well-kept hotel, run by the Lamperts, is north of Triesenberg on the road to Steg. The building is more than 200 years old and has been renovated frequently. It’s a rather underpublicized and unpretentious choice. The small rooms are simple but generally adequate. In addition to the regular doubles, there are two dormitories, one for 10 occupants, another for 5 occupants. Corridor bathrooms are well maintained and uncrowded.

Steg 274, FL-9497 Steg/Triesenberg, Liechtenstein. 00423/263-21-46. Fax 00423/263-21-47. 11 units, none with bathroom; 7 dorm beds. 90F double; 25F dorm bed. Rates include buffet breakfast. Half board 25F. MC, V. Free parking. Closed mid-Apr to mid-May and mid-Nov to mid-Dec. Amenities: Restaurant. In room: No phone.

Masescha

Hikers and mountaineers prefer this small resort village 3km (2 miles) north of Triesenberg. The hamlet is perched high above the Rhine Valley. You can admire the cliffs, woods, lush meadows, and clear mountain brooks of this alpine world. In the village you should see Theodul’s Chapel, a restored medieval church.

Malbun

Fast rising as a winter ski area, Malbun, 15km (9 miles) north of Vaduz, is the center of winter sports in Liechtenstein, with ski lifts, chairlifts, a ski school, and hotels with indoor swimming pools. You can take the chairlift up to the Bettlerjoch Peak, at 2,070m (6,790 ft.). The Prince of Wales and Princess Anne learned to ski here many winters ago. In summer, this is an ideal starting point for mountain walks.

Where to Stay & eat

Alpenhotel ★ This is one of the oldest hotels in Malbun, in the same family since 1908. It’s filled with charming details, such as chandeliers made from deer antlers. The wooden ceilings are painted with alpine floral designs and the heavy timbers are carved with regional reliefs. Jacob and Elsa Vögeli-Schroth are eager to please. There is a modern annex and a covered swimming pool. The attractive restaurant serves savory food.

Malbun, FL-9497 Triesenberg, Liechtenstein. www.alpenhotel.li. 00423/263-11-81. Fax 00423/263-96-46. 23 units. 150F–160F double. Rates include buffet breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Closed mid-Apr to mid-May and Nov to mid-Dec. Amenities: Restaurant; indoor heated pool; room service. In room: TV, minibar.

Gorfion-Malbun ★ This government-rated four-star chalet—the best in town—is near the ski lifts. The timbered lounge has a fireplace and stucco walls decorated with farm implements. The small to midsize rooms are comfortable and well furnished in a modern, but not stylish, way. The restaurant serves excellent meals in a homelike atmosphere.

Malbun, FL-9497 Triesenberg, Liechtenstein. www.s-hotels.com. 00423/263-29-44. Fax 00423/263-95-61. 64 units. Winter 260F–440F double, 320F–540F junior suite for 2–4; summer 234F–330F double, 314F–370F junior suite for 2, 364F–400F junior suite for 4. Rates include buffet breakfast in summer, half board in winter. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Closed mid-Apr to mid-May and mid-Oct to mid-Dec. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; children’s programs; indoor heated pool; room service; spa; Wi-Fi (free, in lobby). In room: TV, hair dryer, minibar.