Chapter 17: Planning Your Trip to Switzerland

This chapter is devoted to the where, when, and how of your trip—the advance planning required to get it together and take it on the road. Browse through this section before you hit the road to ensure you’ve covered all the bases.

Getting There

By Plane

Switzerland is situated at the center of Europe and thus is a focal point for international air traffic. The busy intercontinental airports of Zurich and Geneva can be reached in about 8 hours from the east coast of North America and in fewer than 2 hours from London or Paris. The country is also the crossroads of Europe—virtually all rail lines, road passes, and mountain tunnels lead to it. Similarly, the main European route for east-west travel passes through Switzerland, between Lake Constance and Geneva.

From North America

From New York, it takes about 7 hours to fly to either Geneva or Zurich; from Chicago, about 10 hours; and from the West Coast, about 14 hours.

Swiss International Air Lines Ltd. (simply called Swiss) has taken over as the major carrier for Switzerland in the wake of the famous Swissair going belly up. For information, contact Swiss at 877/FLY-SWISS (877/359-7947) in the U.S., 0848/700-700 in Switzerland, or 0845/601-09-56 in London. Or else search out www.swiss.com.

From North America, the most popular Swiss routes are daily flights from New York’s JFK Airport to either Zurich or Geneva. There is also a daily Newark, New Jersey–Zurich flight, as well as a daily flight from Boston, Los Angeles, Miami, Chicago, and Dallas (in partnership with American Airlines).

From Montreal, Swiss flies to Zurich daily; from London, there are 2 daily Swiss flights to Basel, 5 to Geneva, and 14 to Zurich.

American Airlines ( 800/433-7300; www.aa.com) makes one daily nonstop flight to Zurich from JFK. In collaboration with British Airlines, it also operates at least one daily flight to Zurich from London’s Heathrow as well.

Delta Airlines ( 800/221-1212; www.delta.com) has one daily nonstop to Zurich from Atlanta and a daily flight from Portland, Oregon, with a stopover in Atlanta.

Air Canada ( 888/247-2262; www.aircanada.com) flies nonstop daily from Toronto to Zurich. Flight time from Toronto is about 8 hours.

From Britain

From London’s Heathrow Airport, British Airways (BA; 0844/493-0787; www.britishairways.com) offers six daily nonstop flights to Zurich; on Saturday there are five flights. The airline also provides eight daily flights from Heathrow to Geneva. From Gatwick, BA offers at least one daily nonstop to Geneva.

You can also check for flights by Aer Lingus ( 0870/876-5000; www.aerlingus.com) from Dublin, and flights from London on easyJet ( 0870/600-0000; www.easyjet.com).

British newspapers are always full of classified advertisements touting bargain airfares. Although competition is fierce, one well-recommended company that consolidates bulk ticket purchases and then passes the savings on to its consumers is Trailfinders ( 0845/058-5858 in London; www.trailfinders.com), which offers discounted tickets on major airlines.

Flying for Less: Tips for Getting the Best Airfare

• Passengers who can book their ticket either long in advance or at the last minute, or who fly midweek or at less-trafficked hours may pay a fraction of the full fare. If your schedule is flexible, say so, and ask if you can secure a cheaper fare by changing your flight plans.

• Search the Internet for cheap fares. The most popular online travel agencies are Travelocity; Expedia; and Orbitz. In the U.K., go to Travelsupermarket ( 0845/345-5708; www.travelsupermarket.com), a flight search engine that offers flight comparisons for the budget airlines whose seats often end up in bucket-shop sales. Other websites for booking airline tickets online include Cheapflights, SmarterTravel, Priceline, and Opodo (www.opodo.com). Meta search sites (which find and then direct you to airline and hotel websites for booking) include Sidestep.com and Kayak.com—the latter includes fares for budget carriers like JetBlue and Spirit as well as the major airlines. lastminute.com is a great source for last-minute flights and getaways. In addition, most airlines offer online-only fares that even their phone agents know nothing about. British travelers should check Flights International ( 0800/018-7050; www.flights-international.com) for deals on flights all over the world.

• Keep an eye on local newspapers for promotional specials or fare wars, when airlines lower prices on their most popular routes.

• Consolidators, also known as bucket shops, are wholesale brokers in the airline-ticket game. Consolidators buy deeply discounted tickets (“distressed” inventories of unsold seats) from airlines and sell them to online ticket agencies, travel agents, tour operators, corporations, and, to a lesser degree, the general public. Consolidators advertise in Sunday newspaper travel sections (often in small ads with tiny type), both in the U.S. and the U.K. They can be great sources for cheap international tickets. On the downside, bucket shop tickets are often rigged with restrictions, such as stiff cancellation penalties (as high as 50%–75% of the ticket price). And keep in mind that most of what you see advertised is of limited availability. Several reliable consolidators are worldwide and available online. STA Travel (www.statravel.com) has been the world’s leading consolidator for students since purchasing Council Travel, but their fares are competitive for travelers of all ages. Flights.com ( 201/541-3826; www.flights.com) has excellent fares worldwide, particularly to Europe. They also have “local” websites in 12 countries. Air Tickets Direct ( 888/858-8884; www.airticketsdirect.com) is based in Montreal and leverages the currently weak Canadian dollar for low fares; they also book trips to places that U.S. travel agents won’t touch, such as Cuba.

• Join frequent-flier clubs. Frequent-flier membership doesn’t cost a cent, but it does entitle you to free tickets or upgrades when you amass the airline’s required number of frequent-flier points. You don’t even have to fly to earn points; frequent-flier credit cards can earn you thousands of miles for doing your everyday shopping. But keep in mind that award seats are limited, seats on popular routes are hard to snag, and more and more major airlines are cutting their expiration periods for mileage points—so check your airline’s frequent-flier program so you don’t lose your miles before you use them. Inside tip: Award seats are offered almost a year in advance, but seats also open up at the last minute, so if your travel plans are flexible, you may strike gold. To play the frequent-flier game to your best advantage, consult the community bulletin boards on FlyerTalk (www.flyertalk.com) or go to Randy Petersen’s Inside Flyer (www.insideflyer.com). Petersen and friends review all the programs in detail and post regular updates on changes in policies and trends.

By Car

Situated in the middle of the Continent, Switzerland has a network of express highways linking it to other European countries. You can drive all the way from Britain to Switzerland by taking a northerly route through Belgium or the Netherlands and then Germany. British motorists tend to prefer this express auto route, which is free, to going through France and paying expensive toll charges.

The route through France is also much slower. It begins a few miles south of Calais and leads directly to the Périphérique (the ring road around Paris), where you can pick up the Autoroute du Soleil to Switzerland. In Britain, the best connection for a road link across France is from Portsmouth to Le Havre.

From the south of Germany, Autobahn E35 leads directly into Basel. From Basel, head east to Zurich on E60.

By Train

From Paris

One of the busiest rail links in Europe stretches from Paris to Geneva and Lausanne. Almost as busy are the rail routes between Paris and Zurich. Most of the trains assigned to these routes are part of Europe’s network of high-speed trains (the French refer to them as trains à grande vitesse, or TGV). From Paris’s Gare de Lyon, about four trains a day depart for both Geneva and Lausanne. Travel time to Geneva is about 4 hours; travel time to Lausanne is about 4 1/2 hours.

Trains from Paris to Zurich depart three times a day from Paris’s Gare de l’Est. Ironically, kilometers traveled by train within Switzerland are proportionately more expensive than equivalent distances within France, so ongoing fares from Zurich or Geneva to other points within Switzerland may come as an unpleasant surprise. Travelers who anticipate lots of rail travel are well advised to consider the purchase of any of Rail Europe’s passes, or one of the Swiss Passes.

Schedules, prices, departure times, and confirmed reservations can be arranged before you leave North America through Rail Europe ( 877/272-RAIL [272-7245]; www.raileurope.com).

From London

Rail links are also convenient between London and Switzerland. Both the following routes are easy, but the route through France is considerably more scenic (plus, you’ll get the thrill of crossing the Chunnel—one of the world’s engineering marvels).

Via the Hook of Holland The standard EuroCity express route sets out from London’s Liverpool Street Station, sails from Harwick to the Hook of Holland, and then proceeds by train via Cologne, Germany, to either Basel or Zurich. Once here, it’s easy to find rail links to the rest of Switzerland.

Across or Under the Channel Through Paris It’s also possible to take the rail link from London across or under the English Channel to Paris, where you can make ongoing rail connections to Switzerland. If you depart London at 10am, you can arrive in Geneva or Lausanne before 10pm the same day.

Another way to reach Switzerland via Paris from London is the Citylink rail-hovercraft-rail service. English trains originate at London’s Victoria Station and chug through the English countryside to the port of Folkestone. Passengers disembark and board a hovercraft or, in some cases, a conventional ferryboat, and continue across the channel to the French port of Boulogne. Once you reach the Continent, you’ll proceed south on a waiting train through France into Paris’s Gare du Nord. In Paris, passengers must travel by taxi or Metro (subway) across town to either the Gare de Lyon, for ongoing transfers to Geneva and Lausanne, or the Gare de l’Est, for Basel and Zurich. Trains then depart for Switzerland at regular intervals.

For information, timetables, and confirmed reservations (which are required on certain segments of these routes), contact Rail Europe ( 877/272-RAIL [272-7245]).

Travelers from the U.K. may opt to take one of a dozen or more daily Eurostar trains from London’s St. Pancras station to Paris’s Gare du Nord via the Channel tunnel, also known as the Chunnel, then travel on to Switzerland from Paris. Travel time is approximately 2 hours, with one-way fares beginning at 100€ per person one way, depending on the hour of departure. You can make reservations for Eurostar at 0870/584-8848 in the United Kingdom; in France at 01-55-31-54-54; in the United States at 800/EUROSTAR (387-6782); or online at www.eurostar.com.

The Eurotunnel trains also accommodate passenger cars, charter buses, taxis, and motorcycles under the English Channel from Folkestone, England, to Calais, France, on a service called Le Shuttle. They operate 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, running every 15 minutes during peak travel times and at least once hourly at night. Tickets may be purchased at the tollbooth or by contacting www.eurotunnel.com or calling 08443/35-35-35 (U.K. only). With Le Shuttle, gone are weather-related delays, seasickness, and a need for reservations.

You’ll drive onto a half-mile-long train and travel through an impermeable underground tunnel.

Before boarding Le Shuttle, you must stop at a tollbooth and pass through Immigration for both countries at one time. During the ride you’ll stay in bright, air-conditioned carriages, remaining inside your car or stepping outside to stretch your legs. When the trip is completed, simply drive off toward your destination—in our case, heading southeast to Switzerland.

By Bus

Because of its location at the crossroads of Europe, Switzerland is on several important bus routes. Eurolines, Ltd., 52 Grosvenor Gardens, London SW1W 0AU, U.K. ( 0870/514-32-19 or 020/7730-8235; www.eurolines.com), offers routes into Switzerland from several major European cities, including London. Departing from London’s Victoria Coach Station, buses have toilets, air-conditioning, and reclining seats, and maintain a strict nonsmoking policy. They stop about every 4 hours for a brief rest and refreshments. Other buses depart 2 nights a week for Zurich at 8pm, arriving the next day at 1:15pm. Fares from London to Zurich go for £77 to £84 one-way and £126 round-trip. Persons 25 and under pay £77 each way and £118 round-trip.

Getting Around

By Plane

Switzerland does not have an abundance of airports, partly because of the alpine terrain and partly due to the Swiss peoples’ own resistance to having planes disturb their peace and quiet. To compensate, Switzerland has one of Europe’s best railway systems, linking every major city in the country. This is particularly advantageous for cities such as Bern, the capital; it relies almost exclusively on rail transport to Zurich, Geneva, and Basel for air connections to the rest of the world.

If you want to fly within Switzerland, or from Switzerland to one of about 30 regional cities in Austria, Italy, Germany, or France, Swiss ( 0848/700-700; www.swiss.com), a domestic airline, schedules flights from and to Basel and Amsterdam, Geneva and London, and Lugano and Geneva.

By Car

Switzerland has excellent roads and superhighways, all marked by clear road signs. Alpine passes are not difficult to cross, except in snowstorms, when they may shut down suddenly. Special rail facilities are provided for drivers wishing to transport their cars through the alpine tunnels of the Albula, Furka, Lotschberg, and Simplon. A timetable highlighting the various rates is available from the Swiss National Tourist Office.

Car Rentals Several American companies operate in Switzerland. One of the most reliable firms is Budget ( 800/472-3325; www.budget.com); its prices are competitive with those offered by Avis ( 800/331-1084; www.avis.com) and Hertz ( 800/654-3001; www.hertz.com). Under certain circumstances, the companies offer a discount if you prepay your rental 21 days or more in advance. Budget offers one-way rentals between any two of its more than 20 Swiss offices with no extra drop-off charge. Kemwel Drive Group ( 877/820-0668; www.kemwel.com) offers an alternative to more traditional car-rental companies, such as Budget, Hertz, and Avis, that actually own their automobiles outright. Kemwel leases blocks of cars a year in advance at locations throughout Switzerland, then rents them to qualified customers who prepay the entire rental.

Auto Europe ( 888/223-5555; www.autoeurope.com) is an equivalent company that leases cars, on an as-needed basis, from larger car-rental companies throughout Europe.

Note that there is a 6.5% government tax on car rentals in Switzerland, in addition to a tax of 12% of the total cost usually imposed for rentals at many of the country’s airports, including Zurich. With this in mind, you might choose to skip getting a car at the airport and pick up a vehicle at one of the hundreds of downtown rental agencies run by Budget, Hertz, and Avis.

Automobile Permit Apart from the auto and train tunnel trips mentioned above and a toll on the road through the Great St. Bernard Tunnel, there are no toll roads in the country. Instead of tolls, Switzerland levies a single annual fee of 40F per car, or 80F for trailers, motor homes, and RVs, for use of the nation’s superhighways; when the fee has been paid, a permit sticker is affixed to the car. Drivers of cars without the permit sticker face a fine of more than twice the permit’s cost. Most rental cars come equipped with this certificate. Otherwise, the appropriate permits may be purchased at any post office in Switzerland, at the Customs office at any Swiss border, or from one of the automobile associations.

If you didn’t rent your car in Switzerland, you’ll probably have to purchase the permit. Permits are available at border crossings and are valid for multiple reentries into Switzerland within the licensed period. To avoid long lines at border crossings, you can buy the permit sticker in advance at the Swiss National Tourist Office in Italy, Austria, or Germany (it is not sold in France). Note: If you drive into Switzerland on a secondary road, you don’t need a permit sticker, but if you drive on a Swiss superhighway without one, you risk facing that heavy fine.

Gas The cost varies across the country. Gas stations are usually open daily from 8am to 10pm. U.S. gasoline credit cards generally are not accepted for payment. At stations along Swiss autobahns, gas prices are higher than along secondary roads. Autobahn stations usually give 24-hour service, and electronic machines accept 10- and 20-franc Swiss notes.

Driver’s License U.S. and Canadian driver’s licenses are valid in Switzerland, but if you’re at least 18 and touring Europe by car, you may want to invest in an international driver’s license. Although you may not actually need one, many travelers like the added security blanket of having one, as they are recognized worldwide whereas your local driver’s license isn’t. In case of an accident, an international driver’s license is easier to read among parties who may not understand your local license. In the United States, you can apply for one at any local branch of the American Automobile Association (AAA; 800/AAA-HELP [222-4357] or 407/444-4300; www.aaa.com). Include two 2×2-inch color photographs, a $15 fee, and a photocopy of your state driver’s license. Canadians can get the address of the nearest branch of the Canadian Automobile Club by phoning its national office ( 613/247-0117; www.caa.ca).

Note that your international driver’s license is valid only if accompanied by your home state or provincial driver’s license.

In Switzerland, as elsewhere in Europe, to drive a car legally, you must have in your possession an international insurance certificate, known as a Green Card (Carte Verte). Your car-rental agency will provide one as part of your rental contract.

Driving Rules The legal minimum age for driving in Switzerland is 18. Note, however, that car-rental companies often set their own minimum age, usually 20 or 21.

Drive on the right side of the road and observe the speed limit for passenger vehicles; it’s 120kmph (about 75 mph) on superhighways, 80kmph (about 50 mph) on other highways, and 50kmph (about 30 mph) in cities, towns, and villages, unless otherwise posted. Non-Swiss drivers who exceed the speed limit by 50kmph (about 30 mph) or more are fined 1,200F on the spot. Swiss citizens similarly caught have their driver’s licenses revoked.

When driving through tunnels, be sure to turn on and dim your headlights, as required by law. Never pass another car from the right, even on superhighways. Always wear your seat belt. Don’t permit children 11 or under to ride in the front seat. And, needless to say, don’t drink and drive; driving while under the influence of alcohol is a serious offense in Switzerland.

Breakdowns & Assistance The Automobile Club of Switzerland and its branch offices will assist motorists at all times. For help, contact Automobil Club der Schweiz, Wassergasse 39, CH-3000 Bern 13 ( 031/328-31-11; www.acs.ch), or Touring Club Suisse, 9, rue Pierre-Fatio, CH-1211 Geneva 3 ( 022/417-22-20; www.tcs.ch). The Automobile Club der Schweiz offers 24-hour breakdown service. Motorists in need of help can call 0844/888-111. Most mountain roads have emergency call boxes.

Maps Towns, cities, and resorts in Switzerland will provide you with detailed maps of their town plans which will pinpoint walks and locations of museums and monuments. Most of these offices also have touring maps of their immediate regions and will suggest scenic drives or hiking possibilities in their area.

Before going to Switzerland, you can get detailed maps of the country itself. Distances are generally short because the country is small. You can drive from one end to the other in just a matter of hours, but who would want to? There is so much wonder to discover along the way.

The best maps for touring are published by Rand McNally. Call 800/333-0136 for the address of the outlet nearest to you, especially if you live in such cities as New York, Chicago, or San Francisco. If you live in more remote areas, you can download mail order forms by logging onto www.randmcnallystore.com.

Michelin maps are also good and are sold all over Switzerland, in nearly all bookstores and at certain newsstand kiosks. Especially good is Michelin 427 Switzerland. Another excellent map for those who plan extensive touring in Switzerland is published by Hallwag.

By Train

The Swiss Federal Railway is noted for its comfort and cleanliness. Most of the electrically operated trains have first- and second-class compartments. International trains link Swiss cities with other European centers. Intercity trains coming from Holland, Scandinavia, and Germany require a change at Basel’s station, where a connection is usually available on the same platform. Most intercity trains offer the fastest connections, and since trains leave the Basel station hourly, there’s never too long a wait.

You should purchase European train tickets before leaving home, especially when your itinerary is specific and complicated. All tickets are available through your travel agent, through www.swisstravelsystem.com, or through www.myswitzerland.com.

Swiss Pass/Swiss Flexipass The most practical and convenient ticket for your trip to Switzerland is the Swiss Pass, which entitles you to unlimited travel on the entire network of the Swiss Federal Railways, as well as on lake steamers and most postal motorcoaches linking Swiss cities and resorts. The Swiss Pass is good for a predetermined number of consecutive days.

A 4-day pass goes for $398 for first class and $226 in second class; an 8-day pass $489 in first class or $327 in second class; a 15-day pass $591 in first class or $394 in second class; a 22-day pass $682 in first class and $455 in second class; and a 1-month pass $751 in first class or $500 in second class. The Swiss Pass is issued at half price for children ages 6 to 15 (free ages 5 and under).

A variation of the Swiss Pass is the Swiss Flexipass, good for a predetermined number of days to be used anytime during a 30-day period of time. A 3-day pass goes for $324 in first class or $216 in second class; a 4-day pass $392 in first class or $262 in second class; a 5-day pass $454 in first class or $303 in second class; and a 6-day pass $516 in first class or $345 in second class. The Swiss Family Card is just for families traveling together. This card allows children 15 and under to travel free when accompanied by a parent. It’s valid when traveling on a Swiss Pass or a Swiss Flexipass. Probably the best part of all about the Swiss Family Card is that it is free. Just request it when you purchase your Swiss Pass from Rail Europe.

An economical alternative is the Swiss Saverpass, which offers five consecutive-day durations to choose from, including 4, 8, 15, or 22 days unlimited travel or 1 month unlimited travel. This pass requires a minimum of two people traveling together at all times and offers the choice of first- or second-class train travel. An individual traveling in first class for 4 days costs $287; 8 days, $416; 15 days, $503; 22 days, $508; or 1 month, $639. The cost in second class is 4 days for $192; 8 days, $279; 15 days, $335; 22 days, $388; or 1 month, $426.

Those under the age of 26 might consider the Swiss Youth Pass, which is a discounted version of the Swiss Pass. This pass also offers 5 consecutive day durations to choose from, including 4, 8, 15, or 22 days unlimited travel or 1 month unlimited travel. A 4-day pass goes for $254 for first class or $170 for second class; 8 days for $367 in first class or $245 in second class; 15 days for $444 in first class or $296 in second class; 22 days for $513 in first class or $342 in second class; or 1 month for $563 in first class or $376 in second class. For information on all Swiss rail passes, see www.swiss-pass.ch.

Swiss Regional Rail Passes One of the country’s most unusual transportation bargains is offered in the form of regional passes that divide Switzerland into about half a dozen districts. Passes, most of which are good for 5 days of unrestricted rail travel, are offered for the Lake Geneva region, the Graubunden (Grisons), the Ticino, central Switzerland, and the Bernese Oberland, and can be purchased online at www.myswitzerland.com or at rail stations within each region. If you plan to devote a block of days to exploring one of these specific regions, you might find one of these passes great savings.

One of the most popular of these passes is the Bernese Oberland Regional Pass (Regional Pass für das Berner Oberland), which comes in variations of 3 travel days out of 7 calendar days, and 5 travel days out of 15 calendar days. They’re available from any railway station in the Bernese Oberland and are sold in Swiss francs. The 3-day option sells for 279F in first class or 230F in second class; the 5-day option sells for 332F in first class or 277F in second class. Either variation allows free transport during the appropriate time frames on all but a handful of the cog railways, buses, cable cars, ferryboats, and SBB trains within the region. Note to holders of either the Swiss Pass or the Swiss Card: If you present either of those documents at the time of purchase, you’ll get a 50% discount off the above-mentioned prices.

Swiss Card This pass, which, like the Eurailpasses, must be purchased before you leave home, is valid for 1 month, entitling the holder to a free transfer from any Swiss airport or border point to any destination within Switzerland, and a second free transfer from any destination in Switzerland to any Swiss airport or border point. Each transfer has to be completed within 1 day. Additionally, the Swiss Card gives the holder unlimited half-fare trips on the entire Swiss travel system, including trains, postal coaches, lake steamers, and most (not all) excursions to mountaintops. The pass costs $222 for first class and $159 for second class. Children are charged half-price.

For more information on Swiss railway passes, visit www.swisstravelsystem.ch or call Switzerland Tourism at 212/757-5944.

Eurailpasses The Eurail Global Pass allows you unlimited travel in 18 Eurail-affiliated countries. You can travel on any of the days within the validity period, which is available for 15 days, 21 days, 1 month, 2 months, 3 months, and some other possibilities as well. Prices for first-class adult travel are $449 for 15 days, $579 for 21 days, $719 for 1 month, $1,019 for 2 months, and $1,259 for 3 months. Children 4 to 11 pay half fare; those 3 and under travel for free.

A Eurail Global Pass Saver, also valid for first-class travel in 18 countries, offers a special deal for two or more people traveling together. This pass costs $585 for 15 days, $759 for 21 days, $939 for 1 month, $1,329 for 2 months, and $1,649 for 3 months.

A Eurail Global Youth Pass for those 12 to 25 allows second-class travel in 18 countries. This pass costs $449 for 15 days, $579 for 21 days, $719 for 1 month, $1,019 for 2 months, and $1,259 for 3 months.

A Eurail Selectpass offers unlimited travel on the national rail networks of any three, four, or five bordering countries out of the 22 Eurail nations linked by train or ship. Two or more passengers can travel together for big discounts, getting 5, 6, 8, 10, or 15 days of rail travel within any 2-month period on the national rail networks of any three, four, or five adjoining Eurail countries linked by train or ship. A sample fare: For 5 days in 2 months, you pay $439 for three countries.

If you’re 25 or under, you can avail yourself of a Eurail Global Pass Youth Flexi. In second class, you get 10 days of travel in 2 months for $529, or 15 days in 2 months for $695. For that, you get to travel in 18 European countries, including Switzerland.

For Switzerland only, there is a Swiss Saver Flexipass, granting you 3 days of travel in 1 month for $276 in first class or $184 in second class. This pass is also available for 4, 5, 6, or 8 days of travel in 1 month. These prices are based on two or more passengers traveling together.

Travel agents in all towns and railway agents in major North American cities sell all these tickets, but the biggest supplier is Rail Europe ( 877/272-RAIL [272-7245]); www.raileurope.com), which can also give you informational brochures.

Many different rail passes are available in the United Kingdom for travel in Britain and continental Europe. Stop in at the International Rail Centre, Victoria Station, London SWIV 1JY ( 0870/5848-848 in the U.K.). Some of the most popular passes, including InterRail and Euro Youth, are offered only to travelers 25 years of age and under; these allow unlimited second-class travel through most European countries.

InterRail European travelers can travel throughout Europe for up to 1 month by train with the InterRail ticket. In your home country, you get a 50% reduction on the normal price. Only supplements, reservations, and special trains like the Eurostar cost extra. The ticket is sold at all European travel agents or viawww.swisstravelsystem.com. All you need is a passport and the fee, of course.

Rail Bargains

In Switzerland, children 16 and under—if accompanied by at least one adult—travel free on national rail lines. This family travel plan is valid for the purchase of Swiss Passes, Swiss Flexi Passes, Swiss Cards, and point-to-point tickets (see “By Train” in “Getting Around,” above).

By Bus

The extremely dense network covered by the Swiss postal buses is useful for trips into the mountains. Hopping on one of the popular yellow buses is a much safer and more comfortable way of seeing the Alps than trying to do your own driving in those regions.

By Boat

In the summer, passenger boats sail on Switzerland’s major lakes and rivers. More than 100 boats, with accommodations for 60,000 passengers, operate on the lakes and along stretches of the Rhine and the Aare; most of them have dining. Evening trips, with music and dancing, are also quite popular. The old paddle-steamers on the lakes of Brienz, Geneva, Lucerne, and Zurich, dating from before World War I, are particularly attractive and romantic.

Remember that your Swiss Pass or Swiss Card (half-fare travel card) entitles you to unlimited travel on lake steamers.

Tips on Accommodations

Hotels

Most hotels in Switzerland are clean, comfortable, and efficiently run. Many in the luxury category are among the finest in the world (two in Zurich, in fact, are regarded as the best in Europe). After all, César Ritz came from Switzerland.

There are several categories of hotels. An alkoholfrei hotel is one that doesn’t serve liquor. A hotel garni is one that serves breakfast and beverages but no other meals. You can judge a hotel and its prices by its stars (as judged by Swiss travel authorities): Five stars signify deluxe; four stars, first class; three stars, superior; and two stars, standard. One star indicates minimum. A minimum hotel, with the most limited of facilities, can nevertheless be clean and reasonably comfortable, and standard hotels are among the country’s best travel values.

Reservations can be made directly with the hotel, through any recognized travel agency, or through various reservations systems that have toll-free numbers. The hotel is entitled to request a deposit when you make your reservation; the amount will vary from hotel to hotel.

If you want a total deluxe-hotel-chain trip, you’ll find the Hilton with more choices, each ideally located. These include the Basel Hilton and Le Palace Hilton Geneva, which is one of the finest chain hotels in Switzerland. The latter hotel occupies an entire city block.

The chains do not dominate the hotel scene in Switzerland as they do in some countries. The InterContinental weighs in with such heavy-duty choices as the Royal Plaza Montreux, but we find this one often filled with convention people as the convention center is just next door.

If you’re looking for a chain bargain, and your tastes aren’t too demanding, you can book into any Novotel (there’s one at the Zurich airport, for example).

Among the leading German chains, with minor but choice representation in Switzerland, is the German-owned Steigenberger. Hotels in this chain include the Steigenberger Belvedere at Davos Platz and the chic Steigenberger Gstaad-Saanen outside Gstaad.

All accommodations listed in this guide have private bathrooms unless otherwise noted.

To cut costs, you may consider a package tour (or book land arrangements with your air ticket). You’ll often pay 30% less than individual rack rates (off-the-street, independent bookings). Also, be sure to ask about winter discounts. Some hotels won’t grant them, but many will, especially if bookings that week are light. The price you’ll pay in inexpensive hotels depends on the plumbing. Rooms with only showers are much cheaper than those with private bathrooms. Even cheaper is a room with only a sink and a cabinette de toilet (toilet and bidet).

When you check in, remember to ask if there’s a surcharge on local or long-distance telephone calls (these can be lethal, up to 40%).

Impressions

The Swiss managed to build a lovely country around their hotels.

—George Mikes, Down with Everybody, 1951

Alternatives to Hotels

Bed & Breakfasts The Swiss concept of a bed-and-breakfast is different from that in the United States and Canada. In Switzerland, many bed-and-breakfast places are more like small, cozy hotels than private homes. Called “E + G Hotels”—a marketing association which includes about 220 guesthouses—they can be found throughout the country (www.rooms.ch/index.cfm). A folder listing addresses and phone numbers of E & Gs is available from the Swiss National Tourist Office (www.myswitzerland.com).

Private Homes In Swiss mountain and rural areas, a list of private accommodations can be obtained from most local tourist offices. Look for the following signs advertising such accommodations (generally, a single room): zimmer frei in German, chambre a louer in French, and affitasi camera in Italian.

Chalet, House & Apartment Rentals For a list of U.S. agencies handling such rentals, contact the Swiss National Tourist Office. Local tourist offices in Switzerland also provide listings of apartments and chalets to rent. The Swiss prefer to do business in writing rather than on the phone, so it’s strongly recommended that you write to the home owners directly; allow about 20 days for a reply.

The best agency for arranging vacation homes in Switzerland is a Swiss-based company called INTERHOME, which represents some 20,000 properties throughout Europe—some 4,000 of these in Switzerland. Travelers have easy access to chalets and condos in all the major resort areas, from modest studio apartments at budget prices to luxurious chalets with all the modern amenities. The U.S. branch of INTERHOME, Inc., is at 131 S. State Rd. 7, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33317 ( 800/882-6864; fax 954/791-8522; www.interhome.us). Contact them for a catalog of vacation homes outlining some 4,000 listings in almost 200 locations.

Farm Vacations A unique way to get to know Switzerland, this program lets you experience firsthand the working world and home life of a Swiss farming family. A brochure called Swiss Farm Holidays tells exactly how it can be done; it’s available from the Swiss National Tourist Office (www.myswitzerland.com).

Youth Hostels About 60 youth hostels exist in Switzerland, open to single people, families, or both. Fees range from 26F to 40F per person including bed linens and breakfast, depending on the hostel. There is no upper age limit, but in peak season travelers 25 and younger have priority. For more information, contact Hostelling International USA, 8401 Colesville Rd., Ste. 600, Silver Springs, MD 20910 ( 301/495-1240; fax 301/495-6697; www.hiusa.org).

Switzerland

Business Hours Banks are usually open Monday through Friday from 8:30am to 4:30pm (closed on legal holidays). Foreign currency may be exchanged at major railroad stations and airports daily from 8am to 10pm. Most business offices are open Monday through Friday from 8am to noon and 2 to 6pm. Shops are usually open Monday through Friday from 8am to 12:15pm and 1:30 to 6:30pm, and on Saturday from 9am to 4pm. In most major cities, shops and supermarkets in the main train station are open on Sundays—generally between 11am and 4pm. In large cities most shops don’t close during the lunch hour, although many do close on Monday morning.

Car Rental See “Getting There by Car,” earlier in this chapter.

Cellphones See “Mobile Phones,” later in this section.

Crime See “Safety,” later in this section.

Disabled Travelers A fact sheet and special hotel guide for persons with disabilities is available from the Swiss National Tourist Office. On Swiss trains, wheelchair passengers travel in a special section of the passenger car. Certain trains cannot accommodate them there, in which case they travel in a specified area of the luggage car.

Because of Switzerland’s many hills and endless mountains, visitors with disabilities may have difficulty getting around the country, but conditions are slowly improving. Newer hotels are more sensitive to the needs of those with disabilities, and the more expensive restaurants, in general, are wheelchair accessible. When making a reservation at a Swiss hotel, always discuss your disability beforehand in case some extra preparation will be needed by the staff. It is also prudent to call a Swiss restaurant or museum you’d like to visit to see if they can accommodate you. For very specific information within Switzerland itself, contact Mobility International Schweiz, Frogurbstrausse 4, CH-4600 Olten ( 062/206-88-35; www.mis-infothek.ch).

Motorists who have disabilities should rent from Avis, Hertz, or National. Each of these car-rental companies features hand-controlled vehicles.

Doctors Any foreign consulate can provide a list of area doctors who speak English. If you get sick, consider asking your hotel concierge to recommend a local doctor—even his or her own. You can also try the emergency room at a local hospital. Many hospitals also have walk-in clinics for emergency cases that are not life-threatening; you may not get immediate attention, but you won’t pay the high price of an emergency-room visit. We list some hospital and emergency contact numbers under “Fast Facts” in chapters 4, 7, 11, and 16.

Driving Rules See “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter.

Drug Laws A word of warning: Penalties for illegal drug possession are severe in Switzerland. You could go to jail or be deported immediately.

Electricity Switzerland’s electricity is 220 volts, 50 cycles, AC. Some international hotels are specially wired to allow North Americans to plug in their appliances, but you’ll usually need a transformer for your electric razor or hair dryer. You’ll also need an adapter plug if you’re from North America or the UK.

Embassies & Consulates Most embassies are located in the national capital, Bern; some nations maintain consulates in other cities such as Geneva. There’s an Australian consulate in Geneva at Chemins des Fins 2 9 022/799-91-00). The Canadian embassy is at 88 Kirchenfeldstrasse, Bern ( 031/357-32-00). New Zealand has no embassy in Switzerland, but there’s a consulate in Geneva at Chemin des Fins ( 022/929-03-50). The embassy of the United Kingdom is at Thunstrasse 50, Bern ( 031/359-77-00) and there is a British consulate in Geneva at 37-39, rue de Vermont ( 022/918-24-00). The embassy of the United States is located at Jubilaumstrasse 93, Bern ( 031/357-70-11), with consulates in Zurich at Dufourstrasse 101 ( 031/499-29-60) and in Geneva at Versonnex 7 ( 022/840-51-60).

Emergencies Dial 117 for the police (emergencies only) and 118 to report a fire.

Family Travel On Swiss airlines, you must request a special menu for children at least 24 hours in advance. If baby food is required, however, bring your own and ask a flight attendant to warm it to the right temperature.

Arrange ahead of time for such necessities as a crib, bottle warmer, and a car seat (in Switzerland, car seats are legally required for children 7 or younger).

To locate accommodations, restaurants, and attractions that are particularly kid-friendly, refer to the “Kids” icon throughout this guide.

Should you be traveling with a baby 2 years old or under, it is recommended that you avoid taking the baby on excursions in Switzerland that will take you 6,500 feet above sea level.

Gasoline Please see “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter.

Health Medical care and health facilities in Switzerland are among the best in the world. As a result, no endemic contagious diseases exist. Swiss authorities, however, require immunization against contagious diseases if you have been in an infected area during the 14-day period immediately preceding your arrival in Switzerland. Take along an adequate supply of any prescription drugs that you’ll need, as well as a written prescription that uses the generic name—rather than the brand name—of the drugs (in general, French and German, not U.S., drugs are available in Switzerland). Be sure to carry your vital medicines and drugs in your carry-on luggage.

• Altitude Sickness Because of Switzerland’s lofty position “at the top of Europe,” some concerns might arise if you’re planning strenuous activities at higher altitudes. High altitude sickness most often occurs when you go too high too fast. The body needs time to acclimatize itself as you climb to higher regions. This is an extremely complicated subject, and if you plan to climb Switzerland’s highest peaks, read the study made by Princeton University at www.Princeton.edu/~oa/safety/altitude.html. Symptoms of altitude sickness include a severe headache, a feeling of nausea, dizziness, loss of appetite, and lack of sleep.

• Frostbite In winter, higher elevations might also cause frostbite. Wet clothes, wind chill factor, and extreme cold can cause frostbite. Some people with poor circulation, such as those who suffer from diabetes, are particularly vulnerable. Precautions are advised—no smoking, no drinking, good food, and adequate rest. As you proceed higher and higher, wear multiple layers of clothing, especially waterproof synthetics. Survive Outdoors, Inc., has frostbite prevention advice on its website at www.surviveoutdoors.com/reference/frostbite.asp.

• Snow blindness Snow blindness is caused by the exposure of your unprotected eyes to the ultraviolet rays of the sun. This often happens in Switzerland in conditions of great snow or ice, mostly at higher altitudes. It is usually prevented by wearing dark-lensed “glacier glasses,” which are of the wraparound, side-shielded variety. Wear these glasses even if the sky is overcast, as ultraviolet rays can pass through masses of cloud formations.

Internet & Wi-Fi To find cybercafes in your destination, check www.cybercaptive.com and www.cybercafe.com.

Most major airports have Internet kiosks that provide basic Web access for a per-minute fee that’s usually higher than cybercafe prices. Check out copy shops like FedEx Office (http://fedex.kinkos.com/fpfk/index.php), which offers computer stations with fully loaded software (as well as Wi-Fi).

To find public Wi-Fi hotspots at your destination, go to www.jiwire.com; its Wi-Fi Finder holds one of the world’s largest directories of public wireless hotspots.

For dial-up access, most business-class hotels throughout the world offer dataports for laptop modems, and a few thousand hotels in Europe now offer free high-speed Internet access.

Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone adapters, a spare phone cord, and a spare Ethernet network cable—or find out whether your hotel supplies them to guests.

Language The three major languages are German, French, and Italian, although most people in the tourist industry speak English.

Legal Aid The government advises foreigners to consult their embassy or consulate in case of a dire emergency, such as an arrest. Even if your embassy or consulate declines to offer financial or legal help, it will generally offer advice on how to obtain help locally.

LGBT Travelers Basel, Zurich, and Geneva are the centers of gay life in Switzerland, although such chic resorts as Gstaad, St. Moritz, and Arosa are also popular destinations for gay and lesbian travelers (mostly in winter). The national organization for gays in Switzerland is Pink Cross, Zinggstrasse 16, P.O. Box 7512, 3001 Bern ( 031/372-33-00; www.pinkcross.ch).

A city such as Zurich actively pursues the gay and lesbian market, but away from such sophisticated meccas, it should be noted that rural Switzerland remains conservative, and open displays of homosexuality may be frowned upon. Use discretion when traveling in the more remote areas.

Incidentally, the age of consent in Switzerland is 16. That pertains to boys and girls.

Except for Zurich, French-speaking Switzerland, especially Geneva, seems much more sophisticated about gaydom than the German sector. Dialogai at 11–13, rue de la Navigation in Geneva ( 022/906-40-40; www.dialogai.org), offers information about gay and lesbian travel in this sector of the country.

Mobile Phones The three letters that define much of the world’s wireless capabilities are GSM (Global System for Mobile Communications), a big, seamless network that makes for easy cross-border cellphone use throughout Europe and dozens of other countries worldwide. In the U.S., T-Mobile, and AT&T Wireless use this quasi-universal system; in Canada, Microcell and some Rogers customers are GSM, and most Australians use GSM. GSM phones function with a removable plastic SIM card, encoded with your phone number and account information. If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable multiband phone such as many Sony Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls across civilized areas around much of the globe. Just call your wireless operator and ask for “international roaming” to be activated on your account. Unfortunately, per-minute charges can be high—usually $1 to $1.50 in western Europe and up to $5 in places like Russia and Indonesia.

For many, renting a phone is a good idea. While you can rent a phone from any number of overseas sites, including kiosks at airports and at car-rental agencies, we suggest renting the phone before you leave home. North Americans can rent one before leaving home from InTouch USA ( 800/872-7626; www.intouchglobal.com) or RoadPost ( 888/290-1616 or 905/272-5665; www.roadpost.com). InTouch will also, for free, advise you on whether your existing phone will work overseas. The major gateways to Switzerland are either Geneva or Zurich. At the airport in either city, you can rent cellphones from Rent@phone, whose desks are clearly indicated with signs. To contact Rent@phone in Geneva, call 022/717-82-63; in Zurich, 043/816-50-63. You can also log onto www.rentaphone.ch.

Buying a phone can be economically attractive, as many nations have cheap prepaid phone systems. Once you arrive at your destination, stop by a local cellphone shop and get the cheapest package; you’ll probably pay less than $100 for a phone and a starter calling card. Local calls may be as low as 10¢ per minute, and in many countries, including Switzerland and Liechtenstein, incoming calls are free.

Money & Costs The basic unit of Swiss currency is the Swiss franc (F), which is made up of 100 centimes. Bank notes are issued in denominations of 10, 20, 50, 100, 500, and 1,000 francs, and coins are minted as 5, 10, 20, and 50 centimes, and 1, 2, and 5 francs.

Frommer’s lists exact prices in the local currency. The currency conversions quoted above were correct at press time. However, rates fluctuate, so before departing consult a currency exchange website such as www.oanda.com/convert/classic to check up-to-the-minute rates.

Beware of hidden credit-card fees while traveling. Check with your credit or debit card issuer to see what fees, if any, will be charged for overseas transactions. Recent reform legislation in the U.S., for example, has curbed some exploitative lending practices. But many banks have responded by increasing fees in other areas, including fees for customers who use credit and debit cards while out of the country—even if those charges were made in U.S. dollars. Fees can amount to 3% or more of the purchase price. Check with your bank before departing to avoid any surprise charges on your statement.

Warning: Some establishments in Switzerland might not accept your credit card unless you have a computer chip embedded in it. The reason? To cut down on credit card fraud. More and more places in Switzerland are moving from the magnetic strip credit card to the new system of Chip-and-PIN.

In the changeover in technology, some retailers have falsely concluded that they can no longer take swipe cards, or can’t take signature cards that don’t have PINs anymore.

For the time being, both the new and old cards are accepted in shops, hotels, and restaurants regardless of whether they have the new Chip-and-PIN machines installed.

In the interim between traditional swipe credit cards and those with an embedded computer chip, here’s what you can do to protect yourself:

• Get a four-digit PIN from your credit card’s issuing bank before leaving home, or call the number on the back of each card and ask for a four-digit PIN.

• Keep an eye out for the right logo displayed in a retailer’s window. You want Visa or MasterCard, not Maestro, Visa Electron, or Carte Bleue.

• Know that your Amex card will work where an Amex logo is displayed, but the card is not as widely accepted as Visa and MasterCard.

• As a last resort, make sure you have enough cash to cover your purchase.

For help with currency conversions, tip calculations, and more, download Frommer’s convenient Travel Tools app for your mobile device. Go to http://www.frommers.com/go/mobile/ and click on the Travel Tools icon.

Newspapers & Magazines Swiss papers are published in German, French, or Italian (depending on the region). Most news kisks in major cities stock the British dailies, plus the latest editions of the International Herald Tribune, which, although edited in Paris, is printed in Zurich. USA Today, the latest copies of Time and Newsweek, and other North American and British magazines are also widely available.

Passports Every traveler entering Switzerland must have a valid passport, although it’s not necessary for North Americans to have a visa if they don’t stay longer than 3 continuous months. For information on permanent residence in Switzerland and work permits, contact the nearest Swiss consulate.

For an up-to-date country-by-country listing of passport requirements around the world, go to the “Foreign Entry Requirement” Web page of the U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov.

• Australia Australian Passport Information Service ( 131-232, or visit www.passports.gov.au).

• Canada Passport Office, Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade, Ottawa, ON K1A 0G3 ( 800/567-6868; www.ppt.gc.ca).

• Ireland Passport Office, Setanta Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 ( 01/671-1633; www.foreignaffairs.gov.ie).

• New Zealand Passports Office, Department of Internal Affairs, 47 Boulcott Street, Wellington, 6011 ( 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100; www.passports.govt.nz).

• United Kingdom Visit your nearest passport office, major post office, or travel agency or contact the Identity and Passport Service (IPS), 89 Eccleston Square, London, SW1V 1PN ( 0300/222-0000; www.ips.gov.uk).

• United States To find your regional passport office, check the U.S. State Department website (travel.state.gov/passport) or call the National Passport Information Center ( 877/487-2778) for automated information.

Petrol Please see “Getting Around by Car,” earlier in this chapter.

Safety The potential for specific threats or acts of violence involving American citizens in Switzerland is remote; nonetheless, travelers should always review their security practices and be alert to their surroundings. The Consular Agencies in Zurich and Geneva may close periodically to assess their security situations.

Switzerland has a low rate of violent crime. However, pickpocketing and purse snatching do occur in the vicinity of train and bus stations, airports, and some public parks. Liechtenstein has a low crime rate. Travelers may wish to exercise caution on trains, especially on overnight trains to neighboring countries. Even locked sleeping compartments can be entered by thieves. The loss or theft abroad of a passport should be reported immediately to the local police and your country’s embassy or consulate.

If you are a victim of a crime, in addition to reporting to local police, contact your nearest embassy or consulate for assistance. The embassy/consulate staff can, for example, assist you in finding appropriate medical care, contact family members or friends, and explain how funds could be transferred. Although the investigation and prosecution of a crime is solely the responsibility of local authorities, consular officers can help you to understand the local criminal process and to find an attorney if needed.

Senior Travel Discounts are sometimes available for seniors in Switzerland but may not be evident at first—you’ll have to ask. To qualify, women must be 62 or over, men 65 or over. You will need some proof of your age, however. Certain hotels, restaurants, or even tourist attractions offer senior discounts. Of course, these establishments prefer you to pay full price unless you speak up and specifically request a senior discount. Time and time again you might be denied such a discount, and then, on one day of travel, you might be granted two or three discounts in a row. It’s such a mixed bag.

When visiting one of the Swiss National Tourist Offices, ask if the staff has an up-to-date guide for seniors traveling in Switzerland. These are issued periodically and might be available at the time of your visit.

Student Travel Check out the International Student Travel Confederation (ISTC; www.istc.org) website for comprehensive travel services information and details on how to get an International Student Identity Card (ISIC), which qualifies students for substantial savings on rail passes, plane tickets, entrance fees, and more. It also provides students with basic health and life insurance and a 24-hour help line. The card is valid for a maximum of 18 months. You can apply for the card online or in person at STA Travel ( 800/781-4040 in North America; 132-782 in Australia; 087/1230-0040 in the U.K.; www.statravel.com), the biggest student travel agency in the world; check out the website to locate STA Travel offices worldwide. If you’re no longer a student but are still under 26, you can get an International Youth Travel Card (IYTC) from the same people, which entitles you to some discounts. Travel CUTS ( 800/592-2887; www.travelcuts.com) offers similar services for both Canadians and U.S. residents. Irish students may prefer to turn to USIT ( 01/602-1906; www.usit.ie), an Ireland-based specialist in student, youth, and independent travel.

Taxes A value-added tax (VAT) of 7.6% is added to bills. In addition, drivers entering Switzerland are required by law to purchase a windshield sticker for 40F, valid for travel on Swiss roads for 1 year. Sticers are sold at all Customs posts upon entering Switzerland.

Telephones The telephone system is entirely automatic and connects the entire country. Helpful numbers to know are 111 for directory assistance, 120 for tourist information and snow reports, 140 for help on the road, 162 for weather forecasts, and 163 for up-to-the-minute information on road conditions. Hotels add substantial service charges for calls made from your room; it’s considerably less expensive to make calls from a public phone booth.

To use an old-fashioned coin-operated telephone, lift the receiver and insert 40 centimes to get a dial tone. Be sure to have enough coins on hand, as you must insert more for each message unit over your initial deposit. If you insert more coins than necessary, the excess amounts will be returned. A pay phone will accept up to 5F.

To make a local call, dial directly after you hear the dial tone (no area code needed); for other places in Switzerland, dial the area code and then the number. To call a foreign country, dial the code of the country first, then the area code, and then the number.

To call Switzerland:

1. Dial the international access code: 011 from the U.S.; 00 from the U.K., Ireland, or New Zealand; or 0011 from Australia.

2. Dial the country code: 41.

3. Dial the city code, dropping the zero, and then the number.

To make international calls: To make international calls from Switzerland, first dial 00 and then the country code (U.S. or Canada 1, U.K. 44, Ireland 353, Australia 61, New Zealand 64). Next you dial the area code and number. For example, if you wanted to call the British Embassy in Washington, D.C., you would dial 00-1-202-588-7800.

For directory assistance: Dial 111 if you’re looking for a number inside Switzerland country, and dial 1159 for numbers to all other countries.

For operator assistance: If you need operator assistance in making a call, dial 111.

Toll-free numbers: Numbers beginning with 0800 within Switzerland are toll-free, but calling a 1-800 number in the States from Switzerland is not toll-free. In fact, it costs the same as an overseas call.

Time Switzerland’s clocks are usually 6 hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time in the United States, and 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time. However, because Switzerland and the United States switch their clocks every spring and fall during different weeks, the time difference is sometimes only 5 hours.

Tipping A 15% service charge is included in all hotel and restaurant bills, although some people leave an additional tip for exceptional service. For taxis, a tip is usually included in the charges (a notice will be posted in the cab).

Toilets Most public toilets are clean and modernized. However, in this multilingual country you have to know what you are looking for. Depending on the part of Switzerland, public restrooms may be WC (water closet), Toiletten, toilettes, or gabinetti. Women’s rooms may be identified as Damen, Frauen, Signore, Donne, Femmes, or Dames; and men’s rooms may be labeled Herren, Männer, Signori, Uomini, Hommes, or Messieurs. Public restrooms can be found at bus stations, railway terminals, and cable-car platforms. If these aren’t handy, use the toilets in cafes. Most public toilets are not free.

Vegetarian Travelers In most cases, only the big cities have vegetarian restaurants, but don’t despair if you’re traveling in smaller towns and villages. Nearly all Swiss restaurants, aware of the ever-growing number of vegetarians in the world, offer one or possibly two vegetarian specials a day. Of course, you can always sample such classic cheese dishes as fondue and raclette. Other dishes to order—available almost anywhere—are omelets or rösti (the Swiss version of hash browns). Salads and meatless pastas, available in most restaurants, are another choice for the vegetarian. If you’re dining at a Swiss hotel and/or booked in on a half- or full-board arrangement, you can always request meatless dishes. Most independent restaurants will also serve you meatless dishes on request.