Chapter 1: The Best of Montana & Wyoming
A mix of the rugged Wild West, the even more rugged Rocky Mountains, and a few almost-modern cities—or what we might call overgrown cow towns—make the states of Montana and Wyoming delightful vacation spots. This is especially true for people who savor outdoor adventures, but it’s also the case for those looking to discover a part of the United States that many of us have seen only in the movies and on television (and that’s a rather distorted view). Here you’ll find some of the most breathtaking scenery in America; a vast array of wildlife that not only thinks it owns the place, but actually does; and even some first-class Western-style lodges, restaurants, and museums.
Montana
“Big Sky Country” is an apt nickname for Montana, with its broad swaths of cloud-dotted blue skies hovering over majestic mountains, forested wilderness, and a seemingly endless sea of plains. Below that picture-perfect sky, there are a lifetime of trails to hike, lakes and rivers to paddle, and wide open spaces to explore. But it is also worth spending some time inside city limits, where several standout restaurants and museums nicely complement the great outdoors. You won’t need to pitch a tent here, either: Montana offers first-class Western-style lodges.
Cities Billings is the state’s largest city, with over 100,000 residents and a bustling industrial center. Bozeman and Missoula are both college towns, with good bookstores, restaurants, and shops. They are also both tourism centers: Bozeman is a gateway to Yellowstone, and Missoula is a gateway to Glacier National Park. Among the smaller towns in Montana, Whitefish is known for superlative outdoor recreation and a fun downtown near Glacier National Park, while Helena has a beautiful historic district filled with classic architecture.
Countryside There is nearly endless variety in Montana, from river valleys flanked by the picturesque peaks of the Rocky Mountains, to the endless eastern plains, to the geologically gnarled badlands in Makoshika State Park. The Yellowstone, Madison, and Missouri rivers offer incredible boating and fishing opportunities, as does massive Flathead Lake, in the state’s northwest corner.
Eating & Drinking A trip to Montana is a unique opportunity to indulge in the bold, succulent flavors of big game: You don’t typically find fresh bison, elk, and venison on a big-city menu. Montana’s rivers and streams yield a bounty of trout, sturgeon, walleye, and catfish. Wild huckleberries are a local delicacy that you’ll find in syrup, ice cream, chocolate, and even beer. There are a number of good microbreweries, and most bars double as casinos with low-stakes gaming.
National Parks Glacier National Park is one of Montana’s can’t-miss stops, centered on the awe-inspiring spine of the Rockies. With its soaring peaks, icy lakes and streams, and its multitude of wildlife, it’s a paradise for hikers and backpackers. Yellowstone National Park, part of which is located in Montana, has forests, lakes, and lots of wildlife, but it is probably best known for its spewing geysers and bubbling, boiling mud. Hike along the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River, a thousand-foot-deep gorge.
Wyoming
The least-populated state in the union, Wyoming is defined by its vast open spaces. Along with ranching, the oil and gas industry is a principal economic driver, as is tourism, largely to Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks. It’s a magnet for outdoor enthusiasts, with great trails to hike in summer and slopes to ski and ride come wintertime.
Cities With about 55,000 residents apiece, Cheyenne and Casper vie for the title of most populated city in the least populated state, and serve as worthy stopovers but not vacation destinations. Laramie is the home of Wyoming’s only four-year university. On the doorstep of Grand Teton National Park, Jackson is the hippest, richest, and most active city in the state. Cody is also a worthy destination.
Countryside There are many opportunities for outdoor recreation here, from the Big Horn Mountains and the Wind River Range to the North Platte and Snake rivers, not to mention Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks and their bounty of active challenges. Mountains mark the state’s western and central topography; the eastern side of the state is defined by plains (and coal mines and oil and gas rigs).
Eating & Drinking Jackson Hole has the best restaurants, but you will find a nice variety of options in the larger cities. The focus is on hearty American fare, but Mexican, Italian, and Asian cuisine is also well represented. Like in Montana, you’ll find plenty of game meats on the menus in Wyoming, as well as the occasional basket of Rocky Mountain oysters (deep-fried bull’s testicles).
National Parks If Yellowstone National Park is the top attraction in the state, then Grand Teton National Park is a close second. Between their collective bounty of peaks, geysers, and wildlife, you have one of the top vacation draws in the Rockies. There is also the first national monument in the United States: the iconic Devils Tower National Monument, in the far northeastern corner of the state.
Montana
Wyoming
The best Montana & Wyoming Experiences
• Hiking the Loop at Glacier National Park (MT): The best vacation spot in Montana is also the most obvious one. Take the Loop, an 8-mile moderate hiking trail, to see stunning mountain peaks, verdant landscapes, and a surplus of varied plant and animal life; afterward, you can spend the night in the historic Granite Park Chalet. See chapter 5.
• Seeing Bears and Geysers in Yellowstone National Park (WY): Yellowstone remains the prime attraction in the Rocky Mountains, offering visitors an extraordinary combination of wilderness, wildlife, and geothermal wonders. Take in Old Faithful and the other geysers in the Upper Geyser Basin, and then see if you can spot the less reliable grizzlies and wolves in the Lamar Valley. See chapter 11.
• Exploring Jenny Lake in Grand Teton National Park (WY): In this relatively small park, there are magnificent peaks rising from the Snake River plain, alpine lakes, wildflowers, and wildlife. Take the shuttle boat across serene Jenny Lake to hike up Cascade Canyon. After a picnic lunch, descend to the valley floor and hike back around the lake. See chapter 12.
• Navigating the Missouri River (MT): Take a multiday paddling adventure down the Missouri River from Fort Benton or a day tour at the Gates of the Mountains near Helena. Then stop in at the Lewis & Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center in Great Falls to learn how the Corps of Discovery traversed the river in 1805.
• Trekking the Wind River Range (WY): Lace up your boots and explore this superlative mountain range that stretches across a vast swath of wilderness in the middle of Wyoming. Use Lander as a base camp, then hike to your content on a trip lasting anywhere from a few hours to a few weeks. See “Wind River Valley” in chapter 13.
• Yeehawing at the Cody Nite Rodeo (WY): The Cody Nite Rodeo has the distinction of being the only nightly rodeo in the country in the summertime. Take the time to explore Cody and its strong cowboy culture while in town.
The best Outdoor Adventures
• Exploring the Bob Marshall Wilderness (MT): The 1.5-million-acre Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex in northwest Montana is one of America’s most spectacular wild places. Lace up your hiking boots, tie on your bandanna, and take to the high country in Montana’s northwest corner.
• Enjoying the Yellowstone Backcountry (WY): Outfitters from ranches around Yellowstone National Park will take you into the deep wilderness that surrounds the busy attractions at the park’s center, and there you’ll get a flavor of the wild as rich as the Rockies can offer. If you have experience, you can go on your own—paddling Yellowstone Lake, backpacking along Slough Creek, or Telemark skiing the powder around Shoshone Lake. See chapter 11.
• Fly-Fishing on the Madison River (MT): Brown trout aren’t native to this area, but no one’s asking them to leave; on this popular river running from Yellowstone National Park into Montana, they’re the big attraction. The Madison converges with its “holy trinity” counterparts, the Jefferson and Gallatin, near Three Forks, but lots of anglers fish it around Yellowstone.
• Fishing for Cutthroat Trout on the Snake River (WY): It seems somehow fitting that the menacing-sounding Snake River is home to a feisty strain of cutthroat trout, making it one of the most satisfying Western rivers to fish.
• Whitewater Rafting (MT & WY): The Yellowstone, Snake, Flathead, and Clark’s Fork rivers are among the best whitewater-rafting routes in the Rockies.
• Climbing Devils Tower National Monument (WY): About 5,000 climbers attempt to summit this 1,267-foot icon every year, but less than 2,000 make it. Hire a guide and see how high you can go.
The best Places to View Wildlife
• Glacier National Park (MT): The experience of watching wildlife amid the imposing terrain of Glacier National Park is tough to beat. With a little energy, you can see mountain goats, moose, elk, and other native animals in their natural habitat. Keep a good distance, and be aware of all bear restrictions and regulations—the grizzly is the park’s unofficial mascot. See chapter 5.
• The Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex (MT): Just south of Glacier, in the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex, roam a full complement of Rocky Mountain wildlife—although you have to wander into the backcountry to find it.
• The Lamar Valley, Yellowstone National Park (WY): You can see wildlife in many parts of Yellowstone, including the meadows across from the Old Faithful complex. But the richest trove of wildlife is in the park’s northeast corner, in the valley nicknamed “The Serengeti of the United States.” See chapter 11.
The best Winter Vacation Experiences
• Skiing at Whitefish Mountain Resort (MT; www.skiwhitefish.com; 
800/858-3930): With an annual snowfall of 300 inches, a vertical drop of 2,500 feet, a superpipe for the snowboarding crowd, and virtually no lines, Whitefish Mountain is one of the best ski areas in the northwestern United States.
• Skiing at Big Sky and Moonlight Basin (MT; Big Sky: www.bigskyresort.com; 800/548-4486; Moonlight Basin: www.moonlightbasin.com; 877/822-0430): Big Sky and the much newer Moonlight Basin have connected their trail systems, making for a combined 5,300 acres of terrain—the largest ski area in the country, not to mention the one with the most vertical drop.
• Wintering at Old Faithful (WY): The chilly season in Yellowstone is increasingly popular, especially since the renovation of the Old Faithful Snow Lodge (www.travelyellowstone.com; 866/439-7375), which is now a handsome, comfortable facility. You can take a snowcoach into the park, or cross-country ski or snowshoe to the Lonestar Geyser and other attractions.
• Skiing at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort (WY; www.jacksonhole.com; 888/333-7766): Jackson Hole offers a vertical drop that will take your breath away. There are a variety of ways to get to the bottom, from double black diamonds to intermediate slopes. Skiers who like a challenge should come here and mix the visit with some ballooning, tours of the elk refuge, and other adventures.
• Cross-Country Skiing at Lone Mountain Ranch (MT; www.lonemountainranch.com; 800/514-4644): One of the top Nordic resorts in the country, Lone Mountain Ranch has about 50 miles of cross-country trails for every skill level. Visit for a day or stay here for a week.
The best Hotels & Resorts
• Many Glacier Hotel (Glacier National Park, MT; www.glacierparkinc.com; 406/892-2525): The best thing about Many Glacier, apart from its elegant mien, friendly service, and cozy rooms, is the setting; it sits along Swiftcurrent Lake and in the shadows of Mount Grinnell and Mount Wilbur.
• The Pollard (Red Lodge, MT; www.thepollard.net; 800/765-5273): You can join Buffalo Bill on the guest register at the Pollard, a historic spot that proves that a hotel doesn’t need to sprawl all over the place to set the highest standard of comfort and elegance.
• Old Faithful Inn (Yellowstone National Park, WY; www.travelyellowstone.com; 866/439-7375): If you ever wonder whether there’s really art in architecture, look at the way the rustic simplicity and monumental structure of this inn make a perfect fit just across the way from one of nature’s most astonishing creations. A lattice of logs climbs to an 85-foot ceiling. You can find peace in the upper balconies or join the convivial crowds around the big stone fireplace below.
• Four Seasons Resort Jackson Hole (Jackson, WY; www.fourseasons.com/jacksonhole; 307/732-5000): The most deluxe lodging option in Teton Village, the chic Four Seasons has set a new standard for ski-in, ski-out luxury.
• Jenny Lake Lodge (Grand Teton National Park, WY; www.gtlc.com; 800/628-9988): My favorite property in any national park, this small cabin-resort offers seclusion, top-notch food, and individual attention. The property is a hybrid of mountain-lake resort and dude ranch, with many extras included in its prices.
• The Chamberlin Inn (Cody, WY; www.chamberlininn.com; 888/587-0202): A block from the center of town, the new and improved Chamberlin Inn is Cody’s best lodging option. It features charming historic rooms and apartment units. Consider asking for the Hemingway Suite, where “Papa” stayed in 1932.
• The Occidental Hotel (Buffalo, WY; www.occidentalwyoming.com; 307/684-0451): Born as a tent in 1878, the Occidental has burned to the ground and been lost in a poker game in its storied history. Today the hotel is a beautifully restored, charming property.
The best Guest Ranches
• Averill’s Flathead Lake Lodge (Darby, MT; www.flatheadlakelodge.com; 406/837-4391): A beautiful log lodge on Flathead Lake surrounded by thousands of acres of forest serves as your home base for all activities, which include horseback riding, boating, and fishing. The Western dude-ranch experience is done right at this place, complete with sing-alongs, campfires, and barn dances.
• Triple Creek Ranch (Darby, MT; www.triplecreekranch.com; 800/654-2943): This adults-only place is pretty much the perfect guest ranch, where guests are pampered like European royalty, and the prices reflect it. It has all the traditional dude ranch activities, as well as art workshops and wine-tasting weekends.
• Lone Mountain Ranch (Big Sky, MT; www.lonemountainranch.com; 800/514-4644): Lone Mountain Ranch is a winter and summer resort that has views into the Spanish Peaks Wilderness Area. In winter, there are 45 miles of cross-country trails over terrain that will challenge every level of skier. In summer, you can ride, hike, fish, or simply relax and eat in the popular restaurant. There are bird walks with naturalists and forays into Yellowstone.
• Lost Creek Ranch & Spa (Moose, WY; www.lostcreek.com; 307/733-3435): Positioned next door to a national park and possessing a beautiful view of the Tetons on one side and the Gros Ventres on the other, Lost Creek layers on the comforts and activities. You can ride, hike, swim, fish, float, play tennis and billiards, shoot skeet, and eat gourmet food. Regulars return every year. There are only 10 cabins, but if you can get a reservation, it’s worth it.
• Eatons’ Ranch (Wolf, WY; www.eatonsranch.com; 800/210-1049): The oldest guest ranch in the country, Eatons’ is also one of the best. The ranch got its start in North Dakota in 1882 before relocating in 1904 to isolated Wolf Creek Canyon, about 20 miles west of Sheridan. It’s a gorgeous location for a dude ranch.
The best Bed & Breakfasts
• The Garden Wall Inn (Whitefish, MT; www.gardenwallinn.com; 888/530-1700): This delightful B&B, built in the 1920s, is full of charm—all of the furnishings are period antiques, including claw-foot tubs and Art Deco dressers. Gourmet breakfasts include specialties such as wild huckleberry crepes.
• The Sanders B&B (Helena, MT; www.sandersbb.com; 406/442-3309): Built in 1875, this historically important B&B has been beautifully restored. You’ll relax on original furniture under the eyes of portraits hung by the original owner, U.S. Sen. Wilbur Fiske Sanders.
• Lehrkind Mansion Bed & Breakfast (Bozeman, MT; www.bozemanbedandbreakfast.com; 800/992-6932): Located in the Historic Bozeman Brewery District, the Lehrkind Mansion looks like something out of a fairy tale. Everything is period, from the rare 1897 Regina music box in the parlor to the many original fixtures in the bathrooms.
• Wildflower Inn (Jackson, WY; www.jacksonholewildflower.com; 307/733-4710): A B&B on 3 acres near Teton Village, the Wildflower Inn features luxurious rooms named after local wildflowers, with private decks, exposed logs, and exceptional privacy.
• Spahn’s Big Horn Mountain Bed and Breakfast (Big Horn, WY; www.bighorn-wyoming.com; 307/674-8150): With a 100-mile view from a secluded peak tucked amid the Bighorn Mountains, this rustic hideaway features a massive three-story living area and rooms decorated with country quilts and lodgepole furniture.
• Nagle Warren Mansion Bed & Breakfast (Cheyenne, WY; www.naglewarrenmansion.com; 800/811-2610): Originally built in 1888 by famed architect Erasmus Nagle, the mansion was converted into a bed-and-breakfast in 1997. The grand three-story mansion is luxurious and filled with regional antique furniture. It boasts a stately spire that anchors the building’s southeast corner.
The best Restaurants
• Scotty’s Table (Missoula, MT; www.scottystable.net; 406/549-2790): The menu is characterized by plenty of excellent local beef, as well as creative spins on French, Italian, and Moroccan standards. Owner-chef Scott Gill moved the eatery to a slick space on the ground level of the historic Wilma Building after a long run south of the river.
• Cafe Kandahar (Whitefish, MT; www.cafekandahar.com; 406/862-6247): The chef here is inspired by French and Creole traditions but also loves to experiment. Local produce and meat dominate the menu; favorite creations include seared elk roulade with forest mushroom, as well as creative seafood and pasta dishes.
• Second Street Bistro (Livingston, MT; www.secondstreetbistro.com; 406/222-9463): In the lobby of the Murray Hotel, this stylish bistro serves a creative, French-inspired menu. All of the produce in summer comes from the chef’s garden, and in winter much comes from a greenhouse.
• Snake River Grill (Jackson, WY; www.snakerivergrill.com; 307/733-0557): Locals, including celebs who spend time in the valley, love this place. It’s won awards for both its wine list and its menu, which features fresh fish, crispy pork shank, game meat like venison chops, and Idaho trout.
• Jenny Lake Lodge Dining Room (Grand Teton National Park, WY; 307/733-4647): The five-course dinners here (from prime rib of buffalo to smoked sturgeon ravioli) are so good you might be distracted from the spectacular scenery just outside the window. You may be roughing it in the park, but you’ll need to dress properly at this establishment.
The best Golf Courses
• Old Works (Anaconda, MT): Jack Nicklaus has created a course that is as much fun to play as it is beautiful to look at. The course wonderfully integrates the rocky bluffs, the historic nature of the old copper-processing sites, and prairie grasses and sage.
• Teton Pines Resort (Jackson, WY): You won’t find a more beautiful view from any golf course in the country—except maybe the neighboring Jackson Hole Golf & Tennis Club—with the granite Grand Teton looming over every shot.
• The Powder Horn (Sheridan, WY): Under the majestic Bighorn Mountains, this gorgeous 27-hole course mixes Scottish-style golf, wide-open fairways, and some serious target practice.
The best Museums
• Lewis & Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center (Great Falls, MT; www.fs.fed.us/r1/lewisclark/lcic; 406/727-8733): This offers a great perspective on the Corps of Discovery, from its conception back East to its endpoint at the mouth of the Columbia River at the Pacific Ocean. Films, lectures, and demonstrations are among the offerings.
• Museum of the Rockies (Bozeman, MT; 406/994-2251): The centerpiece of this first-rate museum is the fabulous dinosaur exhibit. The exhibit, which just had a stellar makeover, has made the place one of the premier paleontological attractions in the world.
• Buffalo Bill Historical Center (Cody, WY; www.bbhc.org; 307/587-4771): An art museum, a firearms gallery, the memorabilia of the West’s great showman, and exhibits about the Plains Indians comprise the finest museum in the Rocky Mountains.
• National Historic Trails Interpretive Center (Casper, WY; www.blm.gov/wy/st/en/NHTIC.html; 307/261-7700): State-of-the-art exhibits give modern travelers an idea of what life on the “road” was like for the emigrants who passed through here in the mid-1800s on the Oregon, Mormon, California, and Pony Express trails.
• Old Faithful Visitor Education Center (Yellowstone National Park, WY; 307/344-2751): Stop here to learn about the park’s geysers and other thermal features. You’ll also find projected geyser-eruption times here, making it a good first stop for those looking to see Old Faithful do its thing.
The best Performing Arts & Cultural Events
• International Wildlife Film Festival (Missoula, MT; www.wildlifefilms.org; 406/728-9380): This film festival has become a required festival for international filmmakers who specialize in wildlife. It goes for a week, from early to mid-May, and includes panel discussions and workshops, as well as screenings of the world’s best wildlife films.
• Montana Cowboy Poetry Gathering (Lewistown, MT; 406/538-4575): Held each year in mid-August, this is a rhyming good time for the bowlegged and horse-drawn set. In addition to a healthy dose of range rhyme, there are booths full of leather and arts-and-crafts shows.
• Grand Teton Music Festival (Jackson, WY; 307/733-3050): Talented musicians from well-known orchestras participate in this summer festival. Tickets can usually be obtained on short notice, especially for the terrific weeknight chamber music performances.
• Cheyenne Frontier Days (Cheyenne, WY; 800/227-6336): The “Daddy of ’em All,” Cheyenne Frontier Days is 10 days of parades, rodeo, dances, and concerts. This is the most vivid demonstration of Western hospitality you’ll encounter in the modern world.