Chapter 3: Suggested Montana & Wyoming Itineraries

Montana and Wyoming are two of the bigger states in the country, and all of that land and sky makes for something of a blank canvas when it comes to planning a trip to these parts. Most visitors come here to see their natural wonders in general and Yellowstone, Grand Teton, and Glacier national parks in particular, but there is plenty to see beyond their boundaries: top-notch museums; fun college, resort, and authentic Western towns; crystal-clear lakes and rivers for paddling and fishing; and vast tracts of open space.

As far as a time commitment goes, 1 week is a bit short for a trip to Montana and Wyoming, but you can scratch the surface of one region in that time—say, Yellowstone or the Flathead Valley in Montana. Two weeks is much better, giving the opportunity to delve deeper into one region or travel between the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem and Glacier National Park.

But with all of that real estate, it’s important to not stretch yourself too thin: It’s better to be out on the trails in the Rockies than behind the wheel of a car. Take time to explore places well off the beaten tourist track and breathe the fresh air, take in the views, and really, truly get away from it all.

The Regions in Brief

The Regions of Montana & Wyoming

Montana

Glacier Country & the Northwest Corner This includes Glacier National Park, the Flathead Valley and northwest corner of the state, and Missoula, one of Montana’s three largest cities. The national park draws millions of visitors annually who come to see its soaring peaks, varied wildlife, and innumerable lakes and streams. The Going-to-the-Sun Road, a 50-mile scenic highway that cuts through the heart of the park from southwest to northeast, makes Glacier surprisingly accessible. Elsewhere in the region, the increasingly popular Big Mountain draws downhill skiers, and Flathead Lake is a magnet because of its excellent watersports and quality golf courses. One of the fastest-growing areas in the state, the Flathead Valley shelters an interesting mix of residents: Farmers and loggers share ski lifts and trout streams with transplanted urbanites and big-bucks entrepreneurs, all looking for their slice of paradise. On the southern edge of the region is Missoula, a vigorous college town with good restaurants, interesting shops, and bits of Montana history.

Southwestern Montana This area is extremely diversified. Helena, a town centered on arts and politics (though not necessarily in that order), has a beautiful historic district filled with classic architecture and access to tremendous fishing on the Missouri River. Butte, on the other hand, is working hard to overcome the decay caused by the exploitation, then abandonment, of its mines. Other areas in this part of the state are full of lore. Vigilantes and corrupt sheriffs dominate the stories of the “ghost towns” of Virginia City and Nevada City, both of which are kept alive today by tourists seeking a realistic glimpse into America’s past, and Bannack, an abandoned ghost town that’s now a state park.

Missouri River Country One of the least populated areas in the state, this region stretches from the mountains to the eastern border and is distinguished by prairies that roll along for hundreds of miles. Great Falls, the region’s largest city, is a mecca for those interested in the story of famed explorers Lewis and Clark. U.S. 2, or the Hi-Line—that long stretch of pavement that runs across the northern part of the state—cuts by a series of farms and ranches that perpetuate the homesteader life. New farming equipment and satellite dishes are just modern polish on an old tune.

South-Central Montana (Yellowstone Country) Though this region is almost a twin of the northwest part of the state in many ways—a nearby national park, renowned ski resorts, a university, lots of tourists—it has a unique personality. The city of Bozeman is home to Montana State University and a vibrant downtown. Anglers come from all over the world to fish these blue-ribbon trout streams, but the main attraction in this part of the state is Yellowstone National Park. Still, even the valleys that lead to it—the Madison, Gallatin, and Paradise—are spectacular destinations themselves.

Eastern Montana The geography in this part of Montana is similar to its neighboring region to the north, but there are more people and more things to do here. Billings is the supply center for eastern Montana and northern Wyoming. It’s easily the largest city in Montana and has prospered even without the helpful hand of tourism that the western side of the state has seen. The Bighorn Canyon and the Yellowtail Dam draw their share of visitors, especially hunters and anglers, but this region’s main attraction is Little Bighorn Battlefield, where Gen. George Armstrong Custer led the 7th Cavalry to defeat at the hands of the Sioux and the Northern Cheyenne.

Wyoming

Yellowstone Plateau Yellowstone sits atop a volcanic caldera that periodically blows its top—once every 600,000 years, give or take—but in the interim provides a largely intact ecosystem in this park of 2.2 million acres. Protected from major development by the National Park Service, Yellowstone provides habitat no longer found elsewhere in the Lower 48 and is home to herds of bison, elk, grizzly bears, trumpeter swans, Yellowstone cutthroat trout, and more subtle beauties such as wildflowers and hummingbirds. The geothermal area is greater than any other in the world, with mud pots, geysers, and hot springs of all colors, size, and performance, indicative of a complex natural plumbing system that pulls water down into the Earth’s crust and regurgitates it at high temperatures. More than three million visitors come here annually, not just to pay homage to Old Faithful, but also to fish, hike, camp, and boat.

The Tetons & Jackson Hole The Tetons are a young range, abrupt and sharp edged as they knife up from the plain below. And while the photogenic peaks get top billing, it’s the valley of Jackson Hole that provides the more varied environments and experiences. Grand Teton National Park offers some of the most stunning scenery most of us will ever see—shimmering lakes, thickly carpeted forests, and towering peaks that are blanketed with snow throughout most of the year. It’s an easy-to-see park—you can catch its breathtaking beauty on a quick drive—but you’ll find lakes and waterfalls and even better views and adventures if you leave your car and take to the trails and waterways. The Tetons are especially popular with mountain climbers, who scale its peaks year-round. Elsewhere in the valley, you can float the lively Snake River, visit the National Elk Refuge in the winter, or play cowboy at one of the dude and guest ranches that dot the valley. Skiers and snowboarders have a blast at the resorts here, as well as Grand Targhee on the other side of Teton Pass. And the snug town of Jackson, with its antler-arched town square and its busy shops, offers everything from classy art galleries to noisy, two-steppin’ cowboy bars.

North-Central Wyoming This is the sort of basin settlers were looking for when they came this way in the 19th century—mountain ranges on all sides cradling wide, ranchable bottomlands, and some mineral wealth to pay for ranch kids’ college educations. More and more, though, the oil and gas development, sheep herding and cattle driving, and beet and wheat growing are giving way to recreation and tourism. The beautiful mountains here—the Wind Rivers, the Owl Creeks, the Absarokas, the east side of the Bighorns—get less attention than the Tetons, but that only makes them more attractive. Historically, the area learned its lessons in tourism from the West’s greatest showman, Buffalo Bill Cody, who helped build the fun-loving town that still bears his name. The rodeo and great museum of Cody are joined by other attractions, including the Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, the hot springs of Thermopolis, and the Wind River Indian Reservation, home to the Shoshone and Arapaho peoples.

Eastern Wyoming The plains don’t begin when you pass east over the Continental Divide; there’s another mountain range to cross, and then another—first the Bighorns, then the Black Hills—before you’re really out there on the howling flats. The Bighorns are a treasure of steep canyons, snow-crowned peaks, good fishing, and good hiking, and at their feet sit two of Wyoming’s nicest communities, Sheridan and Buffalo. Some of the prize ranches in this valley have become some of the best dude ranches in the country. Farther east, across the plains beyond the energy boomtown of Gillette, stands the unmistakable geological landmark that is Devils Tower, and along Wyoming’s eastern border rise the Black Hills. The region’s other claim to fame lies in its history. This is the land of Butch Cassidy and his Hole-in-the-Wall Gang (also known as the Wild Bunch) of cattle rustlers, cowboys, and outlaws.

Southern Wyoming To the millions of drivers who cross Wyoming on I-80, this is the empty quarter, consisting of mostly barren, wind-swept plains. But it also has its own mountainous corner—the craggy Medicine Bow—a lot of history, and mineral wealth of many varieties, from natural gas to trona. More discerning travelers will not see a wasteland: They’ll follow the routes of Oregon Trail pioneers (you can still find the wagon-wheel ruts and graves), get off the freeway to visit Fort Laramie, and throw out a fishing line on the North Platte near Saratoga or in Flaming Gorge Reservoir south of Green River. Here you’ll find both old and new—from the historic getaway of Saratoga to the capital city of Cheyenne, where the city throws the biggest rodeo party in the West during July’s Cheyenne Frontier Days.

Montana & Wyoming in 1 Week

This route brings you to the northwest corner of Wyoming and south-central Montana: the 18-million-acre parcel known as the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem.

Montana & Wyoming in 1 & 2 Weeks

Day 1: Jackson, Wyoming ★★

Start your Rocky Mountain getaway in the world-class resort town of Jackson. Serviced by more airlines than any other town in the state, Jackson is relatively easy to get to and a comfortable launching pad for a Montana/Wyoming vacation. Check out Town Square, with its famed antler arches, and the downtown area for window-shopping and lunch, before heading up to the National Museum of Wildlife Art for the afternoon. In the evening, drive to Teton Village or nearby Wilson for dinner, perhaps with a stop to fish on the Snake River en route or, if time permits, a ride up the tram at the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Take your pick of lodgings in and around Jackson. See chapter 12.

Day 2: Grand Teton National Park ★★★

But of course you didn’t come to Wyoming for the civilization. Get up early and head immediately for Grand Teton National Park. Stop at the visitor center in Moose before catching a boat across Jenny Lake to the trail leading up Cascade Canyon; take it at least to Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point, but you’ll get away from most of the crowds if you continue up the canyon for another mile or two. Either bring lunch with you or come down to one of the numerous eateries in the park. Spend the afternoon ogling the majestic mountains from the numerous overlooks, and take a stroll around Willow Flats and look for moose or hike up Signal Mountain (you can drive to the summit as well) for a magnificent perspective. For hungry, budget-minded types, I love the nachos at Deadman’s Bar in Signal Mountain Lodge. Spend the night in one of the park’s lodgings or campgrounds. See chapter 12.

Day 3: Arrive in Yellowstone National Park ★★★

You got a taste of the in-your-face grandeur of the Tetons; now it’s time for the subtler, wilder confines of Yellowstone National Park and its amazing amalgam of wildlife, geysers, and hiking trails. You’ll drive out of Grand Teton National Park through the John D. Rockefeller, Jr., Memorial Parkway before entering Yellowstone, and will soon arrive at the trail head to Lewis River Channel to Shoshone Lake, the largest backcountry lake in the Lower 48. Pack a lunch or plan for a late lunch at Old Faithful, where you’ll spend the night after a stop at West Thumb en route. In the evening, watch the famed geyser erupt, and then stroll the boardwalks for a glimpse at some of the lesser-known thermal features here: Castle, Grand, and Riverside geysers are all awe-inspiring sights to behold. Stay at one of the myriad lodging options at Old Faithful; eat here as well. See chapter 11.

Days 4 & 5: Yellowstone National Park ★★★

Now that you’ve whet your Yellowstone appetite, you’ve got 2 full days to get your fill of hiking, wildlife-watching, sightseeing, or whatever else might tickle your fancy. I recommend visitors spend the first half of Day 4 exploring the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone area, gawking from the overlooks but also hiking one of the rim trails, visiting Clear Lake and Lily Lake, or walking down the metal staircase known as Uncle Tom’s Trail for an unbeatable perspective of the base of Lower Falls. Drive up to Tower-Roosevelt in the afternoon to unwind on the porch at Roosevelt Lodge, where you’ll sleep in a dinky cabin after enjoying a cookout on the trail. The next day, you’re in prime position for an early start of wildlife-watching in the Lamar Valley—“the Serengeti of North America.” Have lunch in Cooke City and perhaps do a little fishing in Trout Lake or Soda Butte Creek before reversing course for Mammoth Hot Springs. After walking the boardwalks here, eat at the Sawtooth Deli or the Corral Drive-In in Gardiner, Montana, or have a quick bite at Mammoth before heading to Boiling River for a soak before the sun sets. Stay at Mammoth or Gardiner.

Day 6: The Paradise Valley ★★ & Bozeman, Montana ★★

From Mammoth or Gardiner, drive north on U.S. 89 up the idyllic Paradise Valley to Livingston, Montana. Wander downtown Livingston, visiting one of the town’s three museums, check out a gallery or two and have a bite to eat. Next, drive west on I-90 to downtown Bozeman, Montana, for the evening. Spend the afternoon strolling Main Street, and settle on a restaurant downtown—there are plenty to choose from—and perhaps a watering hole for an after-dinner drink. As for accommodations close to downtown, I can’t recommend the Lehrkind Mansion Bed & Breakfast enough.

Day 7: Bozeman, Montana ★★

After breakfast at the Lehrkind or one of the noshing spots on Main, head south to the Museum of the Rockies, on the campus of Montana State University. This top-flight museum offers a view into one of the best and brightest paleontology programs in the country and a look at the largest collection of American dinosaurs in the world. Either have lunch at the museum cafe or head back downtown before venturing south into the Gallatin National Forest for an afternoon hiking or fishing expedition. For dinner, try Montana Ale Works or the Mint in nearby Belgrade, a very Montana kind of place.

Montana & Wyoming in 2 Weeks

Start with the preceding 1-week itinerary. Then from Bozeman, Montana, make your way northwest to Glacier Country, the Flathead Valley, and many more of the natural wonders that give the Treasure State its nickname.

Days 1 to 7: Montana & Wyoming in 1 Week

Follow the itinerary outlined above.

Day 8: Butte, Helena ★ & Great Falls, Montana

This is a big driving day, covering about 80 miles on I-90 W. and another 150 miles on I-15 N. But it also puts you within a relatively short drive of Glacier National Park and gives you an opportunity to visit one or both of Great Falls’s terrific museums: the Lewis & Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center and the C. M. Russell Museum Complex. I’m also a sucker for the Sip ’n Dip Lounge, the kitschiest watering hole in the West. En route from Bozeman, stop for a peek at the Berkeley Pit in Butte and lunch on Last Chance Gulch in Helena.

Days 9, 10 & 11: Glacier National Park ★★★

Visit another museum in Great Falls or head directly to Glacier National Park. Before ascending Logan Pass on Going-to-the-Sun Road, stop at Sunrift Gorge for a hike up toward Siyeh Pass, where there’s a nice view of a hanging glacier. Camp or stay at one of the many nice hostelries in the park; eat in the park as well. The next day, take your pick of activities: rafting out of West Glacier, hiking to Avalanche Lake or another trail, or sightseeing in Glacier’s many nooks and crannies. Stay in the park again on night 10, or take your choice of one of the hostelries in the gateways of East Glacier, West Glacier, St. Mary, Essex, or Polebridge. Explore more of Glacier by car or foot on Day 11 before leaving the park for Whitefish. In Whitefish, stay at the Garden Wall Inn and walk downtown for dinner. See chapter 6.

Days 12 & 13: The Flathead Valley ★★

Use Whitefish as a base for exploring the Flathead Valley. After breakfast, take a scenic cruise or fishing charter on Flathead Lake; then spend the remainder of the day in Bigfork, shopping, strolling, and having dinner at one of the terrific eateries. Perhaps take in a play at the Bigfork Summer Playhouse. Stay at one of the many lodgings in or around Bigfork for the evening. On the next day, drive south to Missoula for a peek at the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation Visitor Center and the University of Montana campus before getting in one last hike in the Rattlesnake Wilderness Area just outside of town. In the evening, venture into downtown Missoula for dinner and drinks. See chapter 6.

Day 14: Explore Montana’s Gold West Country

You might end your trip in Missoula and spend the final day enjoying a slow start and a good breakfast. But if your schedule allows, take the day for a scenic drive through the Bitterroot Valley, south of town via U.S. 93, and over Lost Trail Pass. From there, you’ll have an opportunity to visit one of Montana’s historic mining towns: Virginia City, Nevada City, or Bannack. (The latter is a ghost town that’s now a state park.) From any of these, you’re in a good position to get to Salt Lake City (if you arrived by air) and I-15 (if you’re driving home). See chapter 7.

Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks for Families

Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks can be challenging destinations for families. Many of the recreational activities (particularly hiking) can be taxing for little ones, who might also find too much time in the car a bit of a bore. The following itinerary offers a few tips for everybody to get the most out of a week in the parks.

Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks for Families

Day 1: Arrive in Cody, Wyoming ★

Cody is the ideal gateway for a family vacation in Yellowstone: Kids will surely enjoy the shootouts in front of the Irma Hotel downtown, and the nightly Cody Nite Rodeo has kiddie rides beforehand and a participatory “calf scramble” that allows youngsters to get in on the action and chase a bewildered calf around the arena in between the events. (The kids are trying to grab the coveted ribbon tied to the animal.) Older kids might even like the Buffalo Bill Historical Center. Try the sushi at Shiki or steaks at Cassie’s, and stay at the Buffalo Bill Village Resort, the Mayor’s Inn, or the Chamberlin Inn.

Day 2: Arrive in Yellowstone National Park ★★★

Head straight into Yellowstone on Day 2, stopping for a picnic along the shore of Yellowstone Lake once you’ve entered. West Thumb is an excellent primer for introducing tykes to the park’s geothermal underpinnings. Spend the night at Old Faithful, where you can see more incredible displays produced by the heat, water, and geology below. See chapter 11.

Days 3 & 4: Explore Yellowstone ★★★

While many hikes in the first itinerary in this chapter may not be suitable for all children, there are two in particular for people of all ages: Artist Paint Pot Trail, south of Norris, and the Forces of the Northern Range Self-Guiding Trail, near Mammoth (neither trail is detailed in this book, so ask a ranger for more information). Both are short, level, and give a good glimpse at different phenomena that have shaped Yellowstone’s ecosystem over the eons. On Day 3, tackle Artist Paint Pot Trail, then wander Norris’s boardwalks before making your way to Mammoth for the evening. Get a room, cabin, or campsite here, and hit Boiling River for a soak before exploring more thermal features at Mammoth via boardwalk. The next morning, you’re in prime position for the Forces of Nature Self-Guiding Trail, which gives a look at the effects of a forest fire, before driving west for an afternoon exploring the Lamar Valley in search of wildlife—the Yellowstone Association Institute offers customizable expeditions that will allow Mom and Dad a break from the wheel. Spend the night at Roosevelt Lodge —a family favorite—after enjoying a signature chuck-wagon cookout.

Days 5 & 6: Grand Teton National Park ★★★

It’s a pretty good drive from Roosevelt to Grand Teton, so plan a stop at the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and picnic in the southern reaches of the park en route. You’ll probably get your first peek at the Tetons in the early afternoon. Pick a base in the park—your choices range from campgrounds to luxury cabins. Colter Bay Village is a family-friendly spot and gives you the opportunity to set out to moose-watch in Willow Flats or around Jackson Lake Lodge. The next day, take the boat across Jenny Lake and hike as far up Cascade Canyon as you see fit. In the afternoon, take a scenic cruise on Jackson Lake. See chapter 12.

Day 7: Jackson, Wyoming ★★

Your last day will be well spent in Jackson. At Town Square, there are nightly shootouts and stagecoach rides. You might ride the tram or scale a climbing wall at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, or visit the excellent National Museum of Wildlife Art, which has kid-oriented interpretation and activities. Grab dinner at Billy’s Giant Hamburgers at the Cadillac Grille and stay at the Rustic Inn; it has plenty of room to roam on the banks of Flat Creek, but is also within walking distance of Town Square. Jackson has an airport and is an easy drive from I-15 at Idaho Falls. See chapter 12.

Exploring the Wild West Past of Montana & Wyoming

Many visitors come to the region for the sublime views and superb recreation, but many others come in search of the real West that’s slowly but surely fading into the history books. There are pockets of fascinating history that shaped the nation’s culture and textbooks, vestiges of the Old West amid the developments of the new in Wyoming and Montana.

Exploring the Wild West Past of Montana & Wyoming

Day 1: Cheyenne, Wyoming

Begin your day downtown at the beautifully restored Union Pacific Depot and the Cheyenne Depot Museum for a look at how the railroad shaped the history of this part of the West. Pick up their brochure Tracking Trains in Cheyenne, and dig a little deeper into this fascinating chapter. Another interesting (and intertwined) tale is told at the Cheyenne Frontier Days Old West Museum. Stay at the historic Nagle Warren Mansion Bed & Breakfast downtown after a dinner at Poor Richard’s.

Day 2: Laramie & Saratoga

On your second day, head west into Laramie for a visit to the Wyoming Territorial Prison State Historic Site, and then continue into the Snowy Range Mountains to visit Saratoga, Centennial, and/or Woods Landing, and stay for the night. Brooklyn Lodge and Woods Landing are interesting.

Day 3: Casper & Buffalo ★

Return to Laramie, and drive north through the Shirley Basin on U.S. 287 and Wyo. 487 to Casper and the excellent National Historic Trails Interpretive Center. Have lunch at the Wonder Bar before continuing north to Hole-in-the-Wall, a hide-out favored by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. Stay in Buffalo at the Occidental Hotel. Explore Buffalo’s other attractions, Fort Phil Kearny, and the Jim Gatchell Memorial Museum.

Days 4 & 5: Sheridan & Vicinity ★

From Buffalo, continue north on I-25 to Sheridan for a look at its numerous historic attractions. Use Sheridan as a base for exploring the rest of the area, especially Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument, the site of Custer’s infamous Last Stand. If you’re looking for a knowledgeable guide, Ron Spahn of Spahn’s Big Horn Mountain Bed and Breakfast offers daylong historic and cultural tours of the area, including spots well off the beaten track.

Day 6: Cody ★

No Old West trip would be complete without a visit to the town founded by and bearing the name of William “Buffalo Bill” Cody. The Buffalo Bill Historical Center is a must-visit, with a great look into the life of Cody himself, as well as many other aspects of the area’s history. Stay at the Mayor’s Inn or the Chamberlin Inn.

Day 7: Chief Joseph Scenic Highway

From Cody, drive north out of town and get on the Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, which connects to the Beartooth Scenic Byway, an awe-inspiring route into Yellowstone National Park. The road follows the route taken by the Nez Perce tribe, which fled the U.S. Army and its attempt to force relocation to Oklahoma. The flight of the Nez Perce in summer 1877 snaked through Yellowstone but ended in Hi-Line country at Bear Paw Battlefield. From here, you could head in that direction and later hit Butte and Montana’s Gold West Country for a look at the region’s mining history, or into Yellowstone for an adapted version of the first itinerary in this chapter. The Yellowstone Association Institute also offers a number of history-oriented classes and expeditions.