Chapter 4: The Active Vacation Planner

Montana and Wyoming are among the greatest the great outdoors has to offer, in the United States or anywhere in the world. There are literally millions of acres of public spaces where you can cast for native cutthroat trout or herd cattle, go rock climbing or four-wheeling, raft, or ski. These states collectively boast a trio of spectacular national parks, five national monuments, one national recreation area, two national historic sites, five national historic trails, 14 national forests, one national grassland, more than 20 million acres administered by the federal Bureau of Land Management (BLM), and 64 state parks. All things considered, there are many lifetimes of outdoor recreation to be experienced in these parts.

This chapter provides some up-to-date information on visiting Montana and Wyoming’s national parks. Following that are descriptions of activities you can pursue, from A to Z. I’ll point you to the best places in the state to pursue your interests and give you the information you’ll need to get started. You’ll find more details in the appropriate regional chapters.

Preparing for Your Active Vacation

What to Pack & What to Rent

Planning for a trip into the great outdoors may conjure images of vacationers loaded down with golf clubs, skis, cameras, tents, canoes, and bikes. If a car or light truck is your mode of transportation, try to keep the heaviest items between the axles and as close to the floor of your vehicle as possible; this helps improve handling. If you have a bike rack on the rear bumper, make sure the bike tires are far from the exhaust pipe; one bike shop owner told me he does a good business replacing exhaust-cooked mountain-bike tires. Those with roof racks will want to measure the total height of their packed vehicles before leaving home. Underground parking garages often have less than 7 feet of clearance.

One alternative to carrying all that stuff is renting it. Many sporting-goods shops in Montana and Wyoming rent camping equipment; virtually all ski areas and popular mountain-bike areas offer rentals; and major boating centers such as Flathead Lake, Jackson Lake, and Lake Flaming Gorge rent boats. You’ll find many rental sources listed throughout this book.

In packing for your trip, you’ll want to be prepared for all your favorite activities, of course, but you’ll also want to be prepared for an unforgiving climate and terrain. Those planning to hike or bike should take more drinking water than they think they’ll need—experts recommend at least 1 gallon of water per person, per day on the trail—as well as high-SPF sunscreen, hats and other protective clothing, and sunglasses with ultraviolet protection. Summer visitors should carry rain gear for the typical afternoon thunderstorms, plus jackets or sweaters for cool evenings. Winter visitors will need not only warm parkas and hats, but also lighter clothing—the bright sun at midday, even in the mountains, can make it feel like June.

Staying Safe & Healthy in the Outdoors

The wide-open spaces and rugged landscape that make these states such a beautiful place to explore can also be hazardous to your health, especially if you’re not accustomed to the extremes here; see “Health” and “Safety,” in the “Fast Facts” section of chapter 16, for details on dealing with wildlife and high altitudes. The isolation of many of the areas that you’ll seek out means there may be no one around to help in an emergency, so you must be prepared, like any good scout. See “What to Pack & What to Rent,” above, for tips on what to bring. Also be sure to carry a basic first-aid kit. Most important, check with park offices, park rangers, and other local outdoor specialists about current conditions before heading out.

Outdoor Etiquette

Many of the wonderful outdoor areas you’ll explore in Montana and Wyoming are quite isolated; although you’re probably not the first human being to set foot here, you may feel like you are. Not too long ago, the rule of thumb was to “leave only footprints”; these days, we’re trying to not even do that. Being a good outdoor citizen is relatively easy—it’s mostly common sense. Pack out all trash, stay on established trails, be careful not to pollute water, and, in general, do your best to have as little impact on the environment as possible. The best among us go even further, packing out trash others have left behind.

Tours

Academic Trips

In Yellowstone, the Yellowstone Association Institute ★★★ (www.yellowstoneassociation.org/institute; 406/848-2400) offers a slew of guided classes, including daylong hikes to multiday backcountry adventures, often with a historical or scientific bent. Participants can bunk in cabins at the historic buffalo ranch in Lamar Valley or above Gardiner, Montana, in the new Overlook Field Campus, which opened in 2010 and features cabins with shared kitchens and a commanding view.

The Teton Science Schools ★★, 700 Coyote Canyon Rd., Jackson, WY 83001 (www.tetonscience.org; 307/733-1313), have an excellent curriculum for students of all ages, from integrated science programs for junior-high kids to adult seminars covering everything from botany to astronomy. Classes take place at campuses in Jackson and Kelly, and other locations in Jackson Hole. The school’s Wildlife Expeditions ( 877/404-6626) offers tours that bring visitors closer to the park’s wildlife. These trips range from a half-day to a week, covering everything from bighorn sheep to the wolves of Yellowstone.

Dan Pence of Great Divide Wildlands Institute (www.greatdividetours.com; 406/683-4669) offers a variety of scenic and historical tours, with a special emphasis on the route of Lewis and Clark and the Nez Perce through the Big Hole area. Starting at $250 for two people, the packages include day trips to where Lewis first met the Shoshone and other customized historical and scenic tours in the Big Hole.

Adventure Trips

There are plenty of opportunities for adventure in Montana and Wyoming—and some terrific outfitters to help you plan and execute your trip. You can take part in a cattle drive; thrill to the excitement of white-water rafting on the Snake or Flathead rivers; scale a mountain in Grand Teton National Park; or head out into some of the most spectacular scenery in the country on foot or on bicycle, or in a four-wheel-drive vehicle. The variety of tours available seems almost endless, but the tour operators can help you find the one for you. In many cases, you can work with an operator to plan your own customized trip—all it takes is money.

Below are some of the most respected companies operating in Montana and Wyoming. Most specialize in small groups and have trips geared to various levels of ability and physical condition. They also offer trips in a range of price categories, from basic to luxurious, and of varying length. Numerous local outfitters, guides, and adventure travel companies are discussed throughout this book. For a complete list of outfitters in Montana or Wyoming, as well as a lot of other useful information and Web links, contact Visit Montana, P.O. Box 200533, 301 S. Park St., Helena, MT 59620 (www.visitmt.com; 800/847-4868 or 406/841-2870); or the Wyoming Business Council Travel & Tourism Division, 1520 Etchepare Circle, Cheyenne, WY 82007 (www.wyomingtourism.org; 800/225-5996 or 307/777-7777).

• AdventureBus, 375 S. Main St., Ste. 240, Moab, UT 84532 (www.adventurebus.com; 888/737-5263 or 909/633-7225), offers trips on its customized buses, with an emphasis on outdoor adventures, including multisport and mountain-biking tours in and around the Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks.

• Austin-Lehman Adventures, P.O. Box 81025, Billings, MT 59108 (www.austinlehman.com; 800/575-1540 or 406/655-4591), offers guided multiday mountain biking, hiking, and combination tours in and around Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks.

• Backroads, 801 Cedar St., Berkeley, CA 94710-1800 (www.backroads.com; 800/462-2848 or 510/527-1555), offers a variety of guided multiday road biking, mountain biking, and hiking tours in and around Glacier, Yellowstone, and Grand Teton national parks.

• Escape Adventures, 8221 W. Charleston Ave., Ste. 101, Las Vegas, NV 89117 (www.escapeadventures.com; 800/596-2953 or 702/838-6968), offers guided mountain biking and road cycling in Yellowstone National Park and Jackson Hole.

• Glacier Guides (www.glacierguides.com; 800/521-7238 or 406/387-5555) is the exclusive hiking guide service in Glacier National Park. From May through September, it organizes custom trips and offers weekly departures for 3- and 6-day trips. Prices vary, but you can figure on spending $100 to $150 per person, per day. It also rents equipment and can arrange trips on which you stay indoors at night.

• High Country Adventures (www.hcamontana.com; 406/466-5699) is the oldest backpacking guide company in the country. It’s also the Bob Marshall Wilderness Area’s only licensed backpacking outfitter, where there are dozens of licensed horse-packing guides. The company organizes three or four trips per summer that cover about 10 miles of trail in an average day, ranging from a week to 12 days.

• Montana High Country, 35 miles west of Dillon, at 7501 Pioneer Mountain Scenic By-way, Polaris, MT 59746 (www.mhct.com; 406/834-3469), offers year-round guiding services, including fly-fishing, horseback riding, big-game hunting, and snowmobiling. Prices range from $900 for a 3-day, 4-night snowmobiling package to $2,550 for a 6-day, 7-night fishing trip; hunting trips are also available. They also operate a guest lodge.

• Ski the Rockies, 4901 Main St., Downers Grove, IL 60515 (www.skitherockies.com; 800/291-2588 or 630/969-5800), provides customized skiing and snowboarding packages at the major resorts in Montana and Wyoming.

• The World Outdoors, 2840 Wilderness Place, Ste. D, Boulder, CO 80301 (www.theworldoutdoors.com; 800/488-8483 or 303/413-0938), offers a variety of trips, including multisport adventures that include hiking, biking, and rock climbing in Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks.

Volunteer Trips

For those who want to keep the trails in good shape and get some fresh air and exercise, the Continental Divide Trail Alliance (www.cdtrail.org; 303/278-3177) organizes numerous volunteer trail crews in both Montana and Wyoming.

Walking Tours

Backroads (www.backroads.com; 800/462-2848 or 510/527-1555) offers walking/hiking tours of Glacier National Park and Yellowstone and Grand Tetons national parks; tours last about a week, with overnight lodging in various hotels and cabins. Country Walkers (www.countrywalkers.com; 800/464-9255) has a walking/hiking tour of Yellowstone.

Visiting Montana & Wyoming’s National Parks

For many people, including me, the best part of a vacation to Montana and Wyoming is exploring the region’s three national parks: Glacier, Yellowstone, and Grand Teton (www.nps.gov). Unfortunately, these beautiful national treasures have become so popular that they’re being overrun by visitors when the federal government is cutting budgets, making it difficult for the parks to cope with their own success.

To get the most out of your national park visit, try to go in the off season. The parks are busiest in summer, when most children are out of school, so try to visit at almost any other time. Fall is usually best. Spring is okay, but it can be windy and there may be snow at higher elevations. Winter can be delightful if you don’t mind snow and cold. If you have to travel in summer, be patient. Allow extra time for traffic jams and lines, and try to hike some of the longer and lesser-used trails. Rangers will be able to tell you which trails are best for getting away from the crowds.

Passes Offer free admission on Most Federal Lands

Those who enjoy vacationing at national parks, national forests, and other federal lands have opportunities to save quite a bit of money by using the federal government’s annual passes. The America the Beautiful—National Parks and Federal Recreational Lands Pass costs $80 for 1 year from the date of purchase for the general public. It provides free admission for the pass holder and those in his or her vehicle to recreation sites that charge vehicle entrance fees on lands administered by the National Park Service, U.S. Forest Service, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Bureau of Land Management, and Bureau of Reclamation. At areas that charge per-person fees, the passes are good for the pass holder plus three additional adults. Children 15 and under are admitted free.

The passes are also available for U.S. citizens and permanent residents 62 and older for a lifetime fee of $10 (Senior Pass), and are free for U.S. residents and permanent residents with disabilities (Access Pass). The Senior and Access passes also provide 50% discounts on some fees, such as camping.

The Senior and Access passes must be obtained in person at national parks, U.S. Forest Service offices, and other federal recreation sites, but the general public version (the $80 one) can be purchased in person, by phone ( 888/275-8747, ext. 1), or online at http://store.usgs.gov/pass, a website that also provides complete information about the passes.

Outdoor Activities A to Z

Montana and Wyoming offer a surprisingly wide range of outdoor activities, from desert hiking and rafting to fly-fishing and skiing. Among the many online outdoor recreation information sources are the very informative and user-friendly Public Lands Information Center website, www.publiclands.org, and the GORP (Great Outdoor Recreation Page) website, at www.gorp.com.

Throughout this book, you’ll find contact information for national and state parks, national forests, and the like. Here are some key statewide and regional resources. The U.S. Forest Service has information about national forests and wilderness areas in Montana, as well as Bridger-Teton National Forest in Wyoming, at the Northern Region Office, Federal Building, 200 E. Broadway, Box 7669, Missoula, MT 59807 (www.fs.usda.gov/r1; 406/329-3511). The rest of Wyoming’s forests, as well as Thunder Basin National Grassland, are covered by the Rocky Mountain Region Office, 740 Simms St., Golden, CO 80401 (www.fs.usda.gov/r2; 303/275-5350).

The federal Bureau of Land Management also manages millions of acres of recreational lands and can be reached at its Wyoming state office, 5353 Yellowstone Rd., Cheyenne, WY 82009 (www.blm.gov/wy; 307/775-6256); or its Montana state office, 5001 Southgate Dr., Billings, MT 59101 (www.blm.gov/mt; 406/896-5000).

For information on Montana state parks, fishing, and hunting, get in touch with Montana Fish, Wildlife, and Parks, 1420 E. 6th Ave., P.O. Box 200701, Helena, MT 59620 (www.fwp.mt.vov; 406/444-2535). In Wyoming, contact Wyoming State Parks and Historic Sites, 2301 Central Ave., Cheyenne, WY 82001 (http://wyoparks.state.wy.us; 307/777-6323). For hunting and fishing, contact Wyoming Game and Fish, 5400 Bishop Blvd., Cheyenne, WY 82003 (http://gf.state.wy.us; 307/777-4600).

You’ll have no trouble finding detailed topographic maps—essential for wilderness trips—plus whatever equipment and supplies you need. And despite the well-publicized cuts in budgets and workforces in national parks, recreation areas, and forests, every single ranger I encountered was happy to take time to help visitors plan their backcountry trips. In addition, many sporting-goods shops are staffed by area residents who know local activities and areas well, and are happy to help the would-be adventurer. In almost all cases, if you ask, there will be someone willing and able to help you make the most of your trip.

Backcountry Skiing There is nothing as thrilling as skiing deep, untracked powder in completely wild terrain. To enjoy this sport, you need a good set of Telemark skis, good information about where to go, and expert knowledge of snow conditions and avalanche risks. One of the best places to pursue this sport is Togwotee Pass in Bridger-Teton National Forest in Wyoming. Otherwise, check at local ski shops and ask at the headquarters of national forests and state parks. Jackson Hole Mountain Resort decided in 1999 to allow skiers to ski beyond the boundaries of areas it grooms and patrols—as long as they sign waivers. Check with other ski resorts about out-of-bounds forest areas that might be accessible for backcountry adventures.

Biking Mountain biking is a fast-growing sport. Some folks take it easy, pedaling their way to wild country on smooth, easy-grade paths; others are looking for a fast ride down on bumpy, steep trails. Bring your own bike or rent from a local bike shop that will likely assist you in finding the best spots to ride. Bicycling on roads is also popular, but there are limitations: While automobile traffic on many roads is light, there isn’t much room because most of the roads have skimpy shoulders—Yellowstone roads are among the worst. Nor are drivers in this region terribly respectful of bicyclists. So be watchful, research your routes so you can keep to the wider roads, and always wear that helmet.

Boating & Sailing Serious sailors are not likely to live full time at this altitude; even weekend sailors would be wise to look elsewhere for their kind of fun. But if you insist on trying, you’ll find a few sails spread on the bigger lakes of these mountains. You can take a pretty big boat on pretty big Flathead Lake, Jackson Lake, or even Yellowstone Lake if you’re careful about the weather. Smaller boats, such as Hobie Cats, in some ways better suit the sudden, swirling winds typical of these mountains.

Powerboating is another matter; if you’ve got a motor, pack a lunch and head for any of the many lakes that dot Montana and Wyoming’s landscape. Canyon Ferry is a popular Montana water-skiing spot, and you’ll see Wyoming powerboats cruising Boysen Reservoir or Flaming Gorge. Just make sure to check around locally regarding access if you’re uncertain about it. All types of boats are available locally for rent.

Camping These states are ideal places to camp; in fact, at some destinations, such as Yellowstone National Park, it’s practically mandatory. Most communities have at least one commercial campground, and campsites are available at all the national parks and national recreation areas, though these campsites are often crowded in summer. Those who can stand being without hot showers for a day or so can often find free or very reasonable campsites just outside the national parks, in national forests, and on Bureau of Land Management lands. Other good bets are found at state parks.

A growing number of state and federal campgrounds allow visitors to reserve sites, although, more often than not, only in the busy summer months. Throughout Montana and Wyoming, there are more than 100 national forest campgrounds and numerous state parks that will also reserve sites. To check on campground reservation possibilities for many National Park Service, U.S. Forest Service, and other federal properties, contact the new Recreation.gov (www.recreation.gov; 800/444-6777 or 518/885-3639). For information on Montana state parks, get in touch with Montana Fish, Wildlife, and Parks, 1420 E. 6th Ave., P.O. Box 200701, Helena, MT 59620 (www.fwp.mt.gov; 406/444-2535). In Wyoming, contact Wyoming State Parks and Historic Sites, 2301 Central Ave., Cheyenne, WY 82001 (http://wyoparks.state.wy.us; 307/777-6323).

Cross-Country Skiing If you don’t plan to pound down the backcountry powder on Telemark skis, but you want to get out in the snow, cross-country skiing can be practiced on any relatively flat, open meadow or plain where there’s snow on the ground, or along old roads in the region’s forests. Scores of guest ranches now groom trails for both track and skate skiing, and almost every ski resort in the region has a trail. If you don’t want to pay to ski, Forest Service logging roads are typically used for cross-country trails. Many golf courses are also regularly groomed for track skiing; some are even lighted for night skiing. The best place to cross-country ski in Montana is West Yellowstone; in Wyoming, try the Jackson Hole area and Grand Teton National Park (see chapter 12).

Downhill Skiing There are over 20 downhill ski areas in Montana and Wyoming, scattered amid the towering mountain ranges found, for the most part, in the western parts of both states. Breathtaking summit vistas are standard fare. Usually operating from late November to mid-April, and with comparatively shorter lift lines and less expensive lift tickets than most other ski areas in the country, Montana and Wyoming ski resorts are great values for the ski enthusiast. Don’t fret if you’re not skiing black-diamond runs; all ski resorts have acres of beginner and intermediate trails, and seasoned instructors provide lessons at extremely affordable prices. More and more often, you’ll find Telemark skiers honing their skills on packed resort slopes. The best skiing in Montana can be found at Big Sky Resort, near Bozeman, which is the biggest ski area in Montana, with runs for all abilities. West of Glacier National Park, Whitefish Mountain Resort prides itself on a family atmosphere. In Wyoming, the Jackson Hole area wins hands down, with the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, Snow King, and Grand Targhee ski hills just a short drive apart (see chapter 12).

Dude Ranches The dude ranch is the fabled Western experience come to life: daily rides by horseback, cowboy coffee beneath an expansive blue sky, campfire sing-alongs, and homemade food served in rustic lodges. Accommodations are usually in a comfortable cabin or lodge. You need not have any riding experience before your visit; ranch hands are trained to assist even the greenest of greenhorns. For additional information on dude ranches in both Montana and Wyoming, as well as other Western states, contact the Dude Ranchers’ Association, P.O. Box 2307, Cody, WY 82414 (www.duderanch.org; 866/399-2339). Some of the best dude ranches can be found in the Paradise and Gallatin valleys in southwest Montana, and in the Sheridan area and the Wapiti Valley west of Cody in Wyoming.

Are You a Dude or a Guest?

A century ago, it was common courtesy in the West for ranches to feed and lodge travelers who stopped by on their treks across the great empty spaces. Gradually, it became acceptable to accept a few dollars from guests, and by the 1920s, a ranch visit was a full-fledged vacation.

When you make your ranch reservations, it’s wise to know the difference between a “dude ranch” and a “guest ranch.” A dude ranch typically requires a 1-week minimum stay, and they give you the entire package: riding, fishing, trips to the rodeo, and family-style meals. Dude ranchers look down their noses at “guest” ranches, which will take guests staying just 1 night and charge extra for activities such as riding.

Fishing Montana and Wyoming have long been known for world-class fly-fishing, their streams and creeks teeming with native trout—rainbow, brook, brown, mackinaw, golden, and cutthroat—as well as kokanee salmon, yellow perch, largemouth bass, and northern pike. Warm-water species include sauger, channel catfish, and smallmouth bass. Best places to fish in Montana: the Madison River or any one of the world-class, blue-ribbon streams in the southwest part of the state. In Wyoming, head for the waters of the North Platte River near Saratoga and the Miracle Mile, the Snake River, Flaming Gorge Reservoir, or the high lakes of the Wind River Indian Reservation.

Golf Golfers may be pleasantly surprised at the number of exceptional courses found in both states, particularly in Bigfork and Anaconda, Montana. Summer’s long days make this a perfect place to play a round, especially when you take into consideration that average daily temperatures and humidity are much lower here than at destinations in Florida. Reserve tee times well in advance. Best Montana courses: the Old Works in Anaconda and Eagle Bend in Whitefish. In Wyoming: the Jackson Hole Golf and Tennis Club and Teton Pines in Jackson, and the Powder Horn in Sheridan.

Hiking Hiking gives you the added bonus of moderate to strenuous cardiovascular exercise while you’re seeing the sights. Remember, though, that these are the mountains, and the elevation you gain over the course of the hike is a much better indication of how difficult the hike will be than the actual distance traveled. Be sure to wear comfortable hiking shoes that have been broken in, and if you plan on hiking in prime grizzly country, be sure to carry bear mace and check with rangers for what to do in case you actually see a bear. Best place to take a hike in Montana: Glacier National Park (chapter 5). In Wyoming: the Wind River Mountains or Bighorn Mountains.

fishing Licenses

Both Montana and Wyoming require fishing licenses, which are available from most sporting goods stores, outfitters, or tackle shops. Yellowstone National Park requires an additional fishing permit (see chapter 11), and American Indian tribes located in the two states have special regulations and may require permits for fishing in their waters.

In Montana, all nonresident anglers 15 and older are required to buy fishing licenses. Those 14 and under do not need a fishing license as long as they are with an adult who has a valid fishing license. A license for the period of March through the following February is $60. A consecutive 2-day license is $15. In addition to fishing licenses, however, nonresident anglers of all ages must also possess conservation licenses, which cost $10 each. For information, contact the Montana Department of Fish, Wildlife, and Parks, 1420 E. 6th Ave., Helena, MT 59620 (www.mt.gov; 406/444-2535).

You’ll also need a Wyoming state fishing license if you plan to fish that state’s waters. An adult nonresident license costs $14 per day and $92 for the season. Youth fees (ages 14–18) are $3 per day and $15 for the season. A $13 Conservation Stamp is also required for all licenses except the 1-day variety. No license is required for kids 13 and under, as long as they are accompanied by an adult who has a valid fishing license. You’ll also have to check creel limits, which vary from year to year and place to place. Information is available from the Wyoming Game and Fish Department (http://gf.state.wy.us; 307/777-4600).

Mountaineering: Rock & Ice Climbing The Northern Rockies provide superb opportunities for climbers to experience the year-round beauty of Montana and Wyoming’s mountains, whether you seek a daylong rock climb during the height of summer in Montana’s Beartooths or a technical climb up one of the faces of the Tetons. Ice climbing is becoming a hot ticket in the dead of winter, when many of the world’s finest climbers congregate in Cody, Wyoming, for unforgettable winter mountaineering. Not for the faint of heart, the sport is highly technical and requires extreme fitness and stamina. Best place to climb in Montana: Granite Peak, the state’s highest. In Wyoming: Grand Teton National Park (chapter 12) or Wild Iris, south of Lander.

Snowboarding Experienced snowboarders will find Montana and Wyoming ski areas to be snowboard-friendly. If you’re really into riding, ask around at local ski shops for winter backcountry options or summer snowboarding—Glacier Park’s Logan Pass (chapter 5) is a popular destination. Best place in Montana: Whitefish Mountain Resort.

Snowmobiling With more than 3,000 miles of trails in Montana and 1,300 in Wyoming, snowmobilers have a vast winter playground to explore. Though rental shops are plentiful, machines are in high demand, so you’re wise to make a reservation well in advance. Though snowmobiling doesn’t require an extreme level of physical fitness, you have to be able to adequately handle the snowmobile and be well versed in safety measures because avalanches are common in the areas some of these trails traverse. Best bets for snowmobiling in Montana: West Yellowstone (chapter 11) and the Seeley Lake Valley. In Wyoming: Yellowstone National Park (chapter 11) and the surrounding national forest lands.

Watersports: Canoeing, Kayaking & Rafting Paddlers have a wealth of choices here. Montana is particularly rich in rivers worth floating: the Flathead, the Blackfoot, the Madison, the Clarks Fork near Missoula, the Dearborn, the Yellowstone, and even the big old Missouri. In Wyoming, there is less variety, but you’ll find some fine stretches of river on the Snake, the Platte, the Hoback, and the Clarks Fork through Sunlight Basin. If you choose white-water rafting, leave the driving to someone else (that is, sign up with an outfitter that will provide an experienced person to pilot your craft), though you may be asked to paddle. The smaller rivers have no dams to regulate flows, which means kayakers seeking fast, scary runs should come during runoff in June, while canoeists wanting to relax and bird-watch can easily handle the upper Snake or Flathead late in the summer. For thrills, try the Yellowstone River at Gardiner, Montana, and the Snake River in Wyoming.