Chapter 6: Missoula, the Flathead & the Northwest Corner

The northwest corner of Montana is the mythological Montana, the one you probably envisioned when you set out for the Big Sky. This is the country of snowcapped mountains and dense forests and crystal lakes. It’s a land of barely explored wilderness and steel-toed lumberjacks, a land peopled with the ghosts of trappers, mountain men, and Blackfeet Indians.

It’s also a booming recreational area. The geographic center of the region is Flathead Lake, which boasts the somewhat cumbersome distinction of being the “largest natural freshwater lake west of the Mississippi.” The lake was gouged during the last glaciation about 12,000 years ago. It is very deep in places—386 feet out toward the middle—with 128 miles of shoreline, much of it taken up by vacation homes. Anglers will appreciate the fact that trophy trout, salmon, perch, and whitefish populate the lake’s depths. And vacationers seeking a quiet getaway will be pleased by the fact that, despite the busy summer season on Flathead Lake, it doesn’t feel crowded, and there are plenty of places to get out of earshot of everyone.

Besides the lake, the area from Whitefish to Missoula offers plenty of opportunities for hiking, biking, fishing, boating, golf, parasailing, and nearly every other outdoor activity known to man. In winter, you’ll find fine alpine ski areas, excellent cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, snowboarding, and inner-tubing.

Also here is the nation’s largest wilderness complex, the Bob Marshall–Great Bear–Scapegoat Wilderness, which includes some of the most rugged, beautiful, untrammeled country in the Lower 48 states. The magnificent Chinese Wall, a vast monolith on the spine of the Continental Divide, is a symbol of wilderness in Montana, as is the grizzly bear, the king of the wild even when humans venture in for a visit.

Northwestern Montana

Scenic Drives

Two major cross-country routes intersect in the northwest corner: U.S. 93, which runs north to south, and U.S. 2, which runs east to west. Mont. 200, one of the state’s most scenic drives, bisects the lower section of the region.

U.S. 93 heads north from the Bitterroot Valley south of Missoula to the Canadian border. Much of the road slices beneath jagged peaks poking at the skyline. It’s especially pretty early in the morning or early evening, when the light softens the rugged landscape. North of Missoula, in the Flathead Valley near St. Ignatius and the spectacular Mission Mountains, the valley opens. At Polson, you’ve reached the southern portion of Flathead Lake, which stretches 28 miles to the north. In some places, it is 8 miles wide. North of the lake are Kalispell, Whitefish, and Columbia Falls, gateway towns to nearby Glacier National Park. The last oasis in Montana is the border village of Eureka, just minutes south of the Canadian border.

Missoula ★

200 miles E of Spokane, Washington; 213 miles NE of Lewiston, Idaho; 339 miles W of Billings; 115 miles NW of Helena; 115 miles S of Kalispell

Missoula

Missoula has been growing by leaps and bounds, and the reason is clear: The city is in a beautiful valley along the Clark Fork River, with a relatively mild climate more influenced by the Pacific Northwest than by the high Rockies. One could say the same about the local culture.

Partly because this is the home of the University of Montana, the crowds in Missoula’s vibrant downtown are usually either young and Birkenstocked or grizzled and cowboy-booted. Also in the mix are many prominent Western writers who live in or near the city; the result is an intellectual and cultural outpost.

The great outdoors—be it fly-fishing on Rock Creek, skiing at Snowbowl, hiking in the Selway-Bitterroot or the Rattlesnake Wilderness, or cross-country skiing on Lolo Pass—is probably what most attracts these types to the area. The outdoors figures heavily in area politics as well, with a strong pro-environment sentiment among the populace.

Essentials

Getting There Alaska/Horizon, Allegiant, Delta, and United all have flights into the Missoula International Airport (www.flymissoula.com; 406/728-4381), northwest of downtown off U.S. 93.

I-90 leads into Missoula from the west (Washington State and Idaho) and the east (Billings and Bozeman). From Salt Lake City, I-15 leads up through Idaho and intersects with I-90 at Butte. For information on road conditions, call 800/226-7623 or 511 for road conditions statewide. Avalanche information can be obtained by calling the West Central Montana Avalanche Center ( 800/281-1030 or 406/549-4488).

The bus terminal, 1660 W. Broadway ( 406/549-2339), is served by Greyhound (www.greyhound.com; 800/231-2222) for national travel, and Rimrock Stages (www.rimrocktrailways.com; 800/255-7655), which serves intrastate Montana travelers with daily transportation from Missoula to Whitefish.

Visitor Information The Missoula Convention and Visitors Bureau, 101 E. Main St., Missoula, MT 59802 (www.missoulacvb.org; 800/526-3465 or 406/532-3250), has brochures, city maps, and area maps for outdoor activities, shopping, dining, and tours for most of northwestern Montana.

Getting Around Alamo ( 800/462-5266 or 406/543-0926), Avis ( 800/331-1212 or 406/549-4711), Budget ( 800/527-0700 or 406/543-7001), Enterprise ( 888/305-8051 or 406/721-2484), Hertz ( 800/654-3131 or 406/549-9511), and National ( 800/227-7368 or 406/543-3131) maintain counters at the airport; or try Rent-a-Wreck, 1905 W. Broadway ( 800/552-1138 or 406/721-3838). Airport Shuttler ( 406/543-9416) operates a transit service to and from the airport.

Missoula’s city bus line is Mountain Line Transit (www.mountainline.com; 406/721-3333). It doesn’t run late at night or on Sunday.

Taxi service is available 24 hours a day through Yellow Cab ( 406/543-6644) and Green Taxi ( 406/728-8294).

Orientation Missoula’s layout is a tad confusing, so make sure you have a good city map. Remember that downtown is bisected by the Clark Fork River, and become acquainted with the locations of the three bridges, which provide access to the university and points south. Trails alongside the river are suitable for strolling, though you’ll share them with runners and bikers.

Special Events The International Wildlife Film Festival ★ (www.wildlifefilms.org; 406/728-9380), founded by internationally known bear biologist Dr. Charles Jonkel in 1977, recognizes scientific accuracy, artistic appeal, and technical excellence through a juried competition. Highlights of the 1-week festival, held annually in early to mid-May, include daily screenings, workshops and panel discussions, a wildlife photo contest, and various wildlife art displays. Out to Lunch at Caras Park and Downtown ToNight (www.missouladowntown.com; 406/543-4238) are popular summer series featuring live entertainment and numerous food vendors from 11am to 2pm every Wednesday and Thursday from 5:30 to 8:30pm June through August. The Farmers’ Market ★ (www.missoulafarmersmarket.com; 406/544-1532) at Market Plaza (located at the north end of Higgins Ave., where it meets with Railroad and Alder sts.) is the place to be during summer for organic vegetables, fresh flowers, and assorted culinary pleasures. It’s open Saturday from 8:30am to noon May through late October, as well as Tuesday from 5:30 to 7pm in July and August.

Getting Outside

When you look up in Missoula, it is hard to miss the giant m on Mount Sentinel. The trail to the m is a popular hike, a steep zigzag that rewards the determined hiker with panoramic views of the valley. Mount Sentinel is also a favorite spot for hang gliding. You can obtain information and maps of recreation areas before leaving town at the Bureau of Land Management, 3255 Fort Missoula Rd. ( 406/329-3914).

Organized Adventures Lewis & Clark Trail Adventures, 912 E. Broadway (P.O. Box 9051), Missoula, MT 59807 (www.trailadventures.com; 800/366-6246 or 406/728-7609), offers guided hiking and paddling trips in the area.

Biking

The best place to cycle is at the Rattlesnake National Recreation Area and Wilderness ( 406/329-3750). To get there, drive northeast on Van Buren to Rattlesnake Drive. Be sure to consult one of the free trail maps available at bike shops before setting out. Bikes are prohibited in the wilderness portion of the recreation area. Montana Snowbowl ski area also has trails for the serious mountain biker (see “Downhill Skiing,” later in this section). To rent bikes, contact Missoula Bicycle Works, 708 S. Higgins Ave. (www.missoulabicycleworks.com; 855/298-2453 or 406/721-6525). Rentals run $18 for a half-day and $25 for a full day.

Cross-Country Skiing

There are hundreds of square miles of cross-country ski terrain within 30 miles of Missoula. In nearby Garnet, the absence of gold turned a once-prosperous mining town into a ghost town that’s now become a magnet for cross-country skiers at the Garnet Resource Area. With more than 50 miles of trails and a remote location, this area offers a delightful backcountry experience. And while out there, many like to stay in Garnet’s old-fashioned miner’s cabins. Getting there can be an arduous task in winter. Take I-90 east to Mont. 200, turn east for 5 miles to Garnet Range Road, and then go south along the Forest Service Road.

There are 150 miles of marked cross-country ski trails scattered through the Lolo National Forest ( 406/329-3750). Popular areas include Pattee Canyon, Seeley Lake, and Lolo Pass. The Pattee Canyon Complex, 5 1/2 miles south of town, offers several groomed trails that range in difficulty from a short 1-mile trail to a longer 3.4-mile trail, but the snow level varies from year to year. At Lolo Pass, there’s a National Forest information center at the top of the pass with maps and permit sales. To get there, take U.S. 12 west from Lolo for about 30 miles.

Twenty miles from Missoula, the Lubrecht Experimental Forest (www.cfc.umt.edu/lubrecht; 406/244-5524), operated by the University of Montana’s forestry department, has six ski trails and numerous logging roads. To reach Lubrecht from Missoula, take I-90 east to exit 109 and follow Mont. 200 northeast to Greenough. Turn right just past the post office, and less than a half-mile down that road is the Lubrecht camp.

Downhill Skiing

Montana Snowbowl Snowbowl has a vertical drop of 2,600 feet, much of it in the form of steep runs suitable only for experts. There’s not a lot of terrain for beginners here, but the hard-core skier will have a ball. Eighty percent of the 1,138 acres are for intermediate, expert, and advanced skiers, with 500 acres of gladed tree skiing. Snowbowl has reasonably priced rooms for rent during the winter, with and without private bathrooms ($42–$126 for two people). Rentals and instruction are also available.

Snowbowl Rd., P.O. Box 8107, Missoula, MT 59807. www.montanasnowbowl.com. 406/549-9777. Full-day lift tickets $42 adults, $39 students and seniors, $19 children 6–12, free for children 5 and under; half-day rates available. Late Nov to early Apr 9:30am–4pm (Fri–Sun only in off-peak). Located 12 miles northwest of Missoula. From I-90, exit at Reserve St.; head north on Grant Creek Rd., and turn left on Snowbowl Rd.

Fishing

The Clark Fork River, which runs through town, has had its share of environmental problems and concerns over the years. A cleanup effort that began in the 1970s has helped, but it’s never going to be an angler’s first choice. The Bitterroot River and Rock Creek are better bets. Though Rock Creek has been known as a blue-ribbon trout stream, the Bitterroot is also a good spot for those who want to pull in a trout or two, and it has multiple public-access areas near the highway. The Missoula office for the Montana Department of Fish, Wildlife, and Parks ( 406/542-5500) will direct you to some fine fishing spots, including Siria, a more remote site 30 miles up Rock Creek Road.

Whether guiding you along Missoula’s Clark Fork River or helping you pick out the perfect fly, Grizzly Hackle, 215 W. Front St. (www.grizzlyhackle.com; 800/297-8996 or 406/721-8996), can help you with your fly-fishing vacation. Seasoned guides lead you to fishing holes along the Lower Clark Fork, the Bitterroot, the Missouri, and the Blackfoot rivers, as well as Rock Creek, in search of native rainbow, Westslope cutthroat, and brown trout. The company also runs the Lodge on Butler Creek, not far from Missoula, where rooms rent for $165 per night for two, and other overnight accommodations. Grizzly Hackle advocates barbless hooks and catch-and-release fishing, donating heavily to river restoration projects and angling-oriented charities.

Golf

Farther north, there are a number of great golf courses, but in Missoula, the golf is only average. The 9-hole Highlands Golf Club, located at 102 Ben Hogan Dr. ( 406/721-4653), is a short, hilly public course with wickedly gyrating greens. A round runs $14 to $16. There’s also the par-29 executive Linda Vista, 4915 Miller Creek Rd. ( 406/251-3655), with greens fees of $12, and another 9-hole course on the University of Montana campus ( 406/728-8629), with greens fees of $13 to $15. The Larchmont Golf Course, 3200 Fort Missoula Rd. (www.larchmontgolfcourse.com; 406/721-4416), an 18-hole public course within city limits, is a long, fairly tough track that the big hitters will like. Greens fees are $28 to $30 for 18 holes. A more expensive 18-hole option is the Ranch Club, 8501 Ranch Club Rd. (www.ranchclub.com; 406/532-1018), with peak summer greens fees of $95 to walk and $115 to ride. Nonmember access is limited to six rounds a year.

Hiking

Named for a late local newspaper columnist, the Kim Williams Trail follows either side of the Clark Fork River for 2.5 miles through downtown. Just north of town is the Rattlesnake National Recreational Area and Wilderness ( 406/329-3750). To get there, drive northeast on Van Buren to Rattlesnake Drive. The Rattlesnake covers 60,000 acres, 33,000 of which are congressionally designated wilderness. Camping is prohibited within 3 miles of the road because of the heavy use the area receives. Drive northeast on Van Buren to Rattlesnake Drive.

There are two state parks in the Missoula area: Beavertail Hill (http://fwp.mt.gov/parks; 406/542-5500) is located 26 miles southeast of Missoula on the Clark Fork and is open May through September, with excellent river access and shady cottonwood trees lining the riverbanks. There is a day-use charge of $5 for nonresidents; campers pay $15 per night or $25 for a tipi rental. Council Grove State Park (http://fwp.mt.gov/parks; 406/542-5500) is where the Hellgate Treaty establishing the Flathead Indian Reservation was signed. Open for day use only (free), the park has interpretive displays and picnic facilities. Take the Reserve Street exit from I-90 and drive 2 miles south, then 10 miles west on Mullan Road. A third state park at a former Superfund site east of Missoula in Milltown is slated to open in 2013.

Southwest of town, the Lolo Trail is an interesting hike. This trail was created by the constant use of the Nez Perce, Salish, and other tribes that lived in the area and moved back and forth across Lolo Pass.

You can explore a half-mile section of the original trail at Howard Creek, 18 miles west of the intersection of U.S. 93 and U.S. 12 in Lolo. Or hike a 5-mile section of the trail from Lee Creek Campground to the Idaho border. The campground is about 26 miles west of the highway intersection in Lolo.

Snowmobiling

The areas around Missoula have more than 500 miles of groomed snowmobile trails in a number of popular areas. In Lolo Pass, for instance, there are 150 miles of groomed trails connecting the Lolo and Clearwater national forests. There are four other nearby designated areas—Superior, Skalkaho Pass, Seeley Lake, and Lincoln—each with approximately as many miles of groomed trails. For advice on area snowmobiling, contact the Missoula Convention and Visitors Bureau ( 800/526-3465).

White-Water Rafting & Kayaking

Lewis & Clark Trail Adventures, 912 E. Broadway (www.trailadventures.com; 800/366-6246 or 406/728-7609), offers no-nonsense white-water rafting on the Salmon River during excursions through the heart of the Frank Church No Return Wilderness. The main trip is on a 120-mile stretch of Idaho white water, where you can expect to see mountain goats, bighorn sheep, elk, deer, eagles, and otters. Other excursions take in the Lochsa River, the Alberton Gorge of the Clark Fork River, and the Missouri River (through areas in which Lewis and Clark made their famous trek). Trips run May through September. Hiking, biking, and historical tours on the Lolo Trail are also available. Six-day trips on the Salmon River start at $995 per adult. One-day trips on the Lochsa or through Alberton Gorge range from $75 to $115 per adult. Guided hikes on the Lolo Trail are between $139 (1 day) and $675 (3 days) per adult. Children’s rates are about 30% lower.

The Clark Fork, Bitterroot, and Blackfoot rivers are the settings for white-water adventure with 10,000 Waves, 8080 W. Riverside Dr. (www.10000-waves.com; 800/537-8315 or 406/549-6670). Half-day and full-day floats feature thrilling white-water rapids along high mountain rivers and through steep, narrow canyons. Half-day trips are $70 per person; full-day floats cost $85 (includes a great lunch), and dinner trips run $115. The company uses self-bailing rafts, which enable the paddler to focus on the sport, not survival. If you want an even bigger thrill, consider a guided kayak trip with instruction. Rates are $160 for a full day or $220 for a 2-day beginner clinic.

Montana River Guides (www.montanariverguides.com; 800/381-7238 or 406/273-4718) is another good option, offering paddling instruction as well as rafting expeditions. Half-day trips run $55; full-day and dinner trips are $79 and $85, respectively. The most gonzo approach is a guided “riverboarding” trip—akin to sledding on the river on a board designed for the purpose—for $85 to $129.

In town, Brennan’s Wave is a white-water kayaking park on the Clark Fork in the shadows of the Higgins Avenue Bridge. Named for late local kayaking legend Brennan Guth, the world-class park is open to the public and busy with paddlers nearly every day of the year.

Seeing the Sights

You can organize your own tour and check out the architectural highlights of the “Garden City” by contacting the Missoula Historic Preservation Office ( 406/258-4706) or downloading a map from www.historicmissoula.org.

Aerial Fire Depot and Smokejumper Center This is the nation’s largest training base for smokejumpers—firefighters who parachute into remote areas of national forests to combat wildfires. This facility offers a fascinating look at the life of a Western firefighter, beginning with the days when pack animals were an important part of backcountry firefighting, through the 1939 advent of the smokejumper, up to today’s heroes. The Aerial Fire Depot Visitor Center features murals, educational videos, a reconstructed lookout tower, and exhibits of firefighters that illustrate the lives and history of these rescue workers. The center also talks about the important role of fire in forest ecology.

5765 W. Broadway, adjacent to Missoula International Airport. 406/329-4934. Free admission. Daily 8:30am–5pm. Tours available on the hour beginning at 9am; no tours at noon; last tour begins 4pm. Closed Labor Day to Memorial Day weekend.

Elk Country Visitor Center ★ Though a relatively young conservation organization, the Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation has made a large contribution to conserving elk and elk habitat. Its visitor center does that contribution proud: Encompassing ecology, biology, game management, and hunting, the center does a nice job telling the story of elk in North America, from their peak population of 10 million to their overhunted low point of just 90,000 (ca. 1900), to their rebound to about a million head today. The exhibits are interactive, covering everything from the unusual elk bugle to conservation legends, and many of them are geared toward children. Many visitors come simply to see the world-record antler racks on display here—one of them measures 448 inches in all. There is a short nature trail on the property. Allow 1 hour.

5705 Grant Creek Rd. (just north of I-90, exit 101). www.rmef.org. 406/523-4545. Free admission. May–Dec Mon–Fri 8am–6pm, Sat–Sun 9am–6pm; Jan–Apr Mon–Fri 8am–5pm, Sat 10am–5pm.

Historical Museum at Fort Missoula Fort Missoula, one of Montana’s first military posts, was established in 1877, the year Chief Joseph of the Nez Perce led his tribe toward Canada. Now the home of the National Guard and Reserve units, Fort Missoula has as its main attraction this museum, which houses displays that detail the fort’s history and rotating exhibits in its indoor galleries. Outside, the campus is also home to several historic buildings moved to the site, including a one-room schoolhouse, a homestead cabin, an 1863 church, and other buildings.

Building 322, Fort Missoula Rd., entrance on South Ave. www.fortmissoulamuseum.org. 406/728-3476. $3 adults, $2 seniors, $1 students, free for children 5 and under; $10 maximum per family. Memorial Day to Labor Day Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm; rest of year Tues–Sun noon–5pm.

Historic Ninemile Remount Depot Visitor Center This visitor center, along with the Smokejumper Center (above), will educate you in the early methods of rugged firefighting in the northern Rockies. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the depot appears today much as it did when the Civilian Conservation Corps constructed it in the 1930s, complete with live pack mules. All tours are self-guided.

20325 Remount Rd., Huson, MT 59846. 406/626-5201. Free admission. Daily 9am–5pm. Closed Labor Day to Memorial Day weekend. Drive 22 miles west of Missoula on I-90, then 4 miles north of exit 82.

Missoula Art Museum ★ Located downtown in the historic Carnegie Library (1903) and a new wing (2006), this museum’s permanent collection includes about 600 works by about 200 artists, with a special emphasis on contemporary works by Montana and Native-American artists. Changing exhibits feature regional, national, and international art and photography; recent displays showcased works by Ansel Adams and Montana silversmith Haddon Hufford. Associated programs include films, concerts, lectures, tours, and children’s events.

335 N. Pattee St. www.missoulaartmuseum.org. 406/728-0447. Free admission; donations suggested. Tues–Thurs 10am–5pm; Fri–Sun 10am–3pm.

Especially for Kids

A remarkable community effort, the Missoula Carousel (www.carrousel.com; 406/549-8382) was a project begun with nothing more than unrealistic optimism. During planning, funding, and assembly stages of the project, Missoula relied on the kindness of others to make it happen. The hand-carved and -painted horses are the result of thousands of hours of labor from volunteer workers, most of whom were novices trained in the art of carving and painting. It’s a treat for kids, and adults will also marvel at this merry-go-round by the river at downtown’s Caras Park, which is located at the spot where Higgins Avenue crosses the Clark Fork River. The carousel is open daily year-round from 11am to 5:30pm (until 7pm in summer), with 50¢ rides for children 16 and under and seniors 55 and over, and $1.50 rides for adults. Immediately west of the carousel building is another fun community project: a fantasy-themed playground dubbed Dragon Hollow.

Shopping

The Fair Trade Store, 519 S. Higgins Ave. (www.jrpc.org; 406/543-3955), is a project of the Jeannette Rankin Peace Center, selling jewelry, clothing, and musical items from communities around the world. Butterfly Herbs, 232 N. Higgins Ave. (www.butterflyherbs.com; 406/728-8780), features an eclectic collection of items, including jewelry, coffee mugs, teapots, and handmade paper and candles. If you begin to feel the bohemian spirit and suddenly want your own pair of Birkenstocks, just go next door to Hide & Sole, 236 N. Higgins Ave. ( 406/549-0666), for reshodding. The Trail Head, 221 E. Front St. (www.trailheadmontana.net; 406/543-6966), is a good outdoors store, with gear for snowshoers, kayakers, and just about everybody in between. There’s a second location on the south side of town at Southgate Mall, 2901 Brooks St. ( 406/541-6978), specializing in gear and clothing for outdoorswomen.

Missoula is home to an impressive literary community, and the city’s bookstores are among the state’s best, including Fact and Fiction, 220 N. Higgins Ave. (www.factandfictionbooks.com; 406/721-2881). Vintage, rare, and first-edition books are available from Bird’s Nest Books (www.birdsnestbooks.com; 406/721-1125) at 219 N. Higgins Ave.

Monte Dolack is one of the best-known artists in Montana. His often-humorous posters and prints are available at 139 W. Front St. in the Monte Dolack Gallery (www.dolack.com; 406/549-3248). The gallery also features works of other prominent Montana artists, including Mary Beth Percival. Other top Missoula galleries include Larry Pirnie’s Pirnie Art Showroom, 337 E. Broadway (www.pirnieartshowroom.com; 406/543-2713), and the Montana Museum of Art and Culture in the PAR/TV Building on the campus of the University of Montana ( 406/243-2019).

Where to Stay

You won’t find a whole lot of lodging variety within Missoula’s city limits: It’s dominated by chains, with a smattering of independents and Victorian-era B&Bs. For a distinctive night’s sleep, try roughing it in a historic cabin. Information on rental of old-fashioned miner’s cabins at the ghost town of Garnet is available by contacting the Garnet Preservation Association, 3255 Fort Missoula Rd., Missoula, MT 59804 (www.garnetghosttown.net; 406/329-3914). The cabins are available for $30 to $40 a night from December through April, when they are typically accessible only on skis, snowshoes, or snowmobiles. Rustic cabins and lookouts are also available for rent through the Lolo National Forest ( 406/329-3750) and the National Recreation Reservation Service (www.recreation.gov; 877/444-6777).

Hotels & Motels

Best Western Grant Creek Inn ★ Situated close to a freeway off ramp (I-90, exit 101), this Best Western is a solid choice in Missoula. The quality of the rooms and services is what you’d normally associate with a higher-priced chain, with a business center, flatscreen TVs, and near-constant upgrading. There is a good variety of options here. Deluxe suites have a fireplace, a dining area, a desk, a closet, and a nice city view. Conventional rooms are bright and cheery, with two queen-size beds or one king-size bed.

5280 Grant Creek Rd., Missoula, MT 59808. www.bestwestern.com/grantcreekinn. 888/543-0700 or 406/543-0700. Fax 406/543-0777. 126 units. $115–$159 double; $149–$199 suite. Rates include hot breakfast buffet. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Exercise room; Jacuzzi; indoor pool; sauna. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

DoubleTree by Hilton Missoula-Edgewater ★★ This is the premier hotel facility in Missoula. Located on the north bank of the Clark Fork, the upper-end rooms offer a good deal of space with a beautiful view of the river and the University of Montana. Rooms on the second level have balconies, some overlooking the swimming pool. The property is geared toward business travelers, with meeting rooms and a 24-hour business center. The lobby area is nicely finished, with a gift shop that sells Western souvenirs, clothing, and trinkets. The Finn and Porter restaurant, specializing in steaks, seafood, and chops, is just off the lobby. The wooden deck outside the lounge is a fine spot for a cocktail over the Clark Fork River.

100 Madison St., Missoula, MT 59802. www.missoulaedgewater.doubletree.com. 800/222-8733 or 406/728-3100. 171 units. $99–$185 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; free airport transfers; exercise room; outdoor Jacuzzi; outdoor heated pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Goldsmith’s Inn ★ This beautiful 1911 brick building is Missoula’s only riverside B&B, right on the Clark Fork River just across from the University of Montana. The home is the relocated former residence of Clyde Duniway, the second president of the University of Montana. Four of the seven rooms are suites with private sitting rooms, and all rooms have private bathrooms and attractive Victorian furnishings. Some also have fireplaces or reading nooks. Request the Clark Fork Suite for your own Japanese soaking bath, complete with a view of the river.

809 E. Front St., Missoula, MT 59802. www.goldsmithsinn.com. 866/666-9945 or 406/728-1585. 7 units. $124–$159 double; lower winter rates. Rates include full breakfast. DISC, MC, V. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Hilton Garden Inn ★★ The most comprehensive lodging on Missoula’s west side, the six-story Hilton Garden Inn is a convention-oriented facility with terrific rooms. There’s more than a hint of “New West” inspiration in the clean and sleek design, and a choice of two queen-size beds or one king. Some feature whirlpool tubs. Facilities include a pair of restaurants (including a good lunch-and-dinner place in the Blue Canyon Kitchen and Tavern), an indoor pool, and easy access to both I-90 and downtown.

3720 N. Reserve St., Missoula, MT 59808. www.hiltongardeninn.com. 800/222-8733 or 406/532-5300. Fax 406/532-5305. 146 units, including 1 suite. $99–$189 double; $349–$439 suite. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge; exercise room; indoor Jacuzzi; indoor heated pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

The Lodge at Lolo Hot Springs This hot-springs resort, 25 miles west of Lolo and only 7 miles from the Montana–Idaho border, is an especially popular winter destination—the cross-country skiing on Lolo Pass is excellent, as is the snowmobiling. There are 18 modern rooms and a large, inviting lobby in the lodge, and 15 in a motel-style unit. The lodge is called the Fort because the design is reminiscent of the fort in the 1948 John Wayne film Fort Apache. The motel rooms are large and less expensive than those in the lodge, but they are spare in the decor department. Since the adjacent fabled Lolo Hot Springs Pool (www.lolohotsprings.com) is a separate operation, there’s a fee to soak in them, but there are two 20-person hot tubs for guest use.

38600 W. U.S. 12, Lolo, MT 59847. www.lololodge.com. 406/273-2201. 33 units. $99–$139 double. DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; 2 indoor Jacuzzis; Wi-Fi (free). In room: A/C, TV/DVD, DVD library, no phone. Located 35 miles southwest of Missoula via U.S. 93 and U.S. 12.

Mountain Valley Inn This one-time chain property has evolved into a first-rate independent property, as new ownership has poured money back into the place. Rooms are fresh and clean, with small bathrooms with tub/shower combos; two nicely renovated family suites are available. There’s also a small exchange library and guest lounge on the property.

420 W. Broadway, Missoula, MT 59802. www.mountainvalleyinnmissoula.com. 800/249-9174 or 406/728-4500. 60 units, including 1 suite. $79–$89 double; $119 suite; lower rates fall to spring. Rates include complimentary cookies and full breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Exercise room. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Ruby’s Inn ★ Just south of I-90 at the west end of town, Ruby’s is hard to miss—just look for the big neon lips. The gaudy sign belies a top-notch independent motel, run by Ruby Erck for more than 25 years, with fresh, clean rooms and a full slate of amenities. Executive rooms are twice as big, and the honeymoon suite has a king-size bed and a two-person hot tub. The best feature might be the “backyard” along Grant Creek with fishing access (and grills to cook your catch) and a creek-side Jacuzzi.

4825 N. Reserve St., Missoula, MT 59808. www.erckhotels.com/rubys. 800/221-2057 or 406/721-0990. Fax 406/721-0990. 126 units, including 4 suites. $89–$99 double; $119–$129 suite; lower rates fall to spring. Complimentary afternoon refreshments and hot breakfast buffet. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($10 one-time fee). Amenities: Free airport transfers; exercise room; outdoor Jacuzzi; seasonal outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchenette, Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat

Missoula is blessed with an excellent variety of restaurants, ranging from organic vegetarian to full-blown carnivorous. In addition to the options discussed below, I suggest the Hob Nob, 531 S. Higgins Ave. ( 406/541-4622), for great breakfasts such as homemade corned beef hash, sourdough flapjacks, and migas (an egg and tortilla dish). Also reliable for a scrumptious breakfast and lunch, Catalyst Espresso, 111 N. Higgins Ave. ( 406/542-1337), cooks frittatas and scrambles for breakfast and soups, salads, and sourdough for lunch. The historic Shack Cafe, 222 W. Main St. (www.theshackcafe.com; 406/549-9903), is another local favorite, serving huge omelets known as “buffalo pies” for breakfast and a wide variety of lunch and dinner entrees.

Expensive

The Depot ★★ STEAKS/SEAFOOD A Missoula institution, the Depot is known for its upscale atmosphere and good food. The decor is along the contemporary cowboy and Western theme, with an inviting brick bar that looks out onto an active rail yard and about 20 colorful paintings by Larry Pirnie. You might try the scallop casserole: scallops and mushrooms in white wine, Swiss cheese, and cream sauce. The beef menu features prime rib, New York strip, and filets; specialties include the garlic-roasted filet and a fresh range veal chop served with fresh mushrooms and heavy cream. There is a huge wine list, including some hard-to-find bordeaux. There’s also a more casual pub area called the Deck, serving a less expensive array of burgers, sandwiches, and pizzas ($8–$15).

201 W. Railroad Ave. 406/728-7007. Reservations recommended. Main courses $17–$37. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5:30–9pm, Fri–Sat 5:30–10pm; shorter hours fall to spring. Bar open later.

The Keep ★ STEAKS/SEAFOOD After the landmark Greenough Mansion at the Highlands Golf Club burned to the ground in 1992, this castlelike restaurant, serving some of the area’s best food, took its place on the very same foundation. Positioned on the bluffs of southeast Missoula, the Keep has a terrific ambience, heightened by the 30-foot ceiling in the bar and the panoramic views of the city and surrounding mountains. The Keep is known for its rack of lamb and salmon, as well as its rich and decadent desserts. The lounge and terrace offer a more casual setting and a menu of appetizers, salads, and small plates.

102 Ben Hogan Dr. www.thekeeprestaurant.com. 406/728-5132. Main courses $27–$40. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5–10pm.

Pearl Café ★★ STEAKS/SEAFOOD/NEW AMERICAN Named for chef/owner Pearl Cash, this swank eatery opened in 2004 and immediately rose into the upper echelon of Missoula’s culinary landscape. Cash, who has operated several acclaimed restaurants in the area since the 1970s, delivers a sumptuous menu of creative regional standards, such as grilled filet mignon with a port-roquefort sauce, and duckling with pomegranate-cherry sauce and truffle-shiitake-chèvre flan. Located in the historic former Missoula Mercantile Warehouse, Pearl has three distinct dining areas: a sleek but casual bar area out front, a first-floor dining room with warm peach and brick walls, and an upstairs mezzanine with wrought-iron railings and an air of elegance. The wine list is excellent.

231 E. Front St. www.pearlcafe.us. 406/541-0231. Reservations recommended. Main courses $18–$33. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–9pm.

Red Bird ★★ NEW AMERICAN The small, intimate Red Bird is tucked in the back of the ground floor of the Art Deco Florence Building. Chef Jim Tracey changes the menu monthly, but the entrees are fresh and superbly prepared year-round. One of Tracey’s personal favorites is grilled bison tenderloin served with creative presentations that change seasonally. Other dishes include hand-cut beef and lamb plates, as well as killer homemade desserts. A wine bar serves a different menu that includes a gourmet cheeseburger (sharp white cheddar, grilled onions, and shiitake mushrooms) for $13.

111 N. Higgins St., Ste. 100. www.redbirdrestaurant.com. 406/549-2906. Reservations recommended. Main courses $26–$36, wine bar menu $12–$22. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 5–9:30pm. Wine bar Mon–Sat 5–10:30pm.

Scotty’s Table ★★ NEW AMERICAN/MEDITERRANEAN A chic, upscale bistro just north of the Higgins Avenue Bridge, Scotty’s Table uses organic and local ingredients in large part in its menu, which is the perfect balance of Montana and Mediterranean cuisine. The former is characterized by plenty of excellent local beef, served in non-Montanan presentations that respectively include carrot purée and chimichurri sauce; the latter includes creative spins on French, Italian, and Moroccan standards. Owner-chef Scott Gill moved the eatery to a slick space on the ground level of the historic Wilma Building after a long run south of the river.

131 S. Higgins Ave. (lower level). www.scottystable.net. 406/549-2790. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$12 lunch, $13–$31 dinner. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–2:30pm; daily 5–9:30pm. Closed Mon fall to spring.

Moderate & Inexpensive

Bernice’s Bakery ★ BAKERY Bernice’s has been one of Missoula’s most beloved culinary spots since the late 1970s. This small, out-of-the-way place, known for its delicious baked goods, is a great place for breakfast of the continental variety. In addition to an outstanding soft homemade granola, Bernice’s sells buttery croissants filled with flavored cream cheeses, an excellent complement to the freshly brewed organic coffee that’s also a staple. Organic juices and teas are available, too. This is also a great dessert spot—the cream puffs are out of this world—and a good choice for lunch as well.

190 S. 3rd St. W. www.bernicesbakerymt.com. 406/728-1358. Most items $2–$6. DISC, MC, V. Daily 6am–8pm.

Biga Pizza PIZZA Biga Pizza cooks up gourmet pies using what’s in season locally. The tables are in view of a central open kitchen featuring a colossal brick oven. Among the seasonal options on the menu: in the winter months, the cherry chutney and sausage; and in summer, the Sicilian, with Italian sausage, caramelized onions, and goat cheese.

241 W. Main St. www.bigapizza.com. 406/728-2579. Pizzas $12–$19; salads and sandwiches $5–$10. MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–3pm; Mon–Thurs 5–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 5–10pm.

The Oxford Cafe AMERICAN Even if you don’t eat at the Ox, as it’s known, you really should go in and look around. Established in 1883, this distinctly Montanan cafe is a Missoula institution, adorned with beer signs, a long bar, a breakfast counter, a bison head, and an endless stream of eccentrics, cowboys, and bikers. Chicken-fried steaks are the specialty of the house; the Ox had sold more than 210,000 all-time at last count. Other restaurants come and go, but the Ox endures, a testament to overflowing breakfast plates, keno, and bottled American beer. As the late proprietor Ralph Baker once put it, “The place hasn’t closed in so long, we don’t even know where the keys are.”

337 N. Higgins Ave. www.the-oxford.com. 406/549-0117. Breakfast $4–$13; lunch $3–$8; dinner $6–$13. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 24 hr.

Missoula After Dark

Watering Holes for Any Taste

There are plenty of watering holes in Missoula, whether your buzz of choice is alcohol or caffeine induced. Sean Kelly’s, 130 W. Pine ( 406/542-1471), serves Irish pub–style food—bangers and mash, pot roast, Irish stew—in addition to your alcoholic beverage of choice. The weekend jazz is wonderful, and there are also pool tables in the back. Iron Horse Brew Pub, 501 N. Higgins Ave. ( 406/728-8866), has one of the city’s best selections of Montana-brewed beer and myriad TVs to watch the game. Bold, bawdy, and bedecked with black-and-white photos of regulars, Charlie B’s, 428 N. Higgins Ave. ( 406/549-3589), is one of the best dives in the Northwest, serving a cross-section of Missoula: blue-collar types, professionals, and college kids. The exterior doesn’t have a sign; just follow the laughter and chatter. The Dinosaur Cafe in the back serves pretty good Cajun plates, including red beans and rice with your choice of sausage. (Live a little—try the alligator.)

There are a number of good breweries in town, with taprooms where they can pour customers a maximum of 48 ounces of beer a day due to Montana state laws. My favorite is the Kettlehouse Brewing Co. ★★, 602 Myrtle St. (www.kettlehouse.com; 406/728-1660), a neighborhood brewery that supplies excellent craft beer to many local restaurants. Its taproom—open Monday through Saturday from noon to 9pm—is a funky hangout with old couches and a jovial atmosphere. A second location opened in 2009 at 313 N. 1st St. W. with the same phone number and hours. Big Sky Brewing Company has a taproom near the airport at 5417 Trumpeter Way (www.bigskybrew.com; 406/549-2777), open Monday through Friday from 11am to 6:30pm and Saturday from 11am to 6pm. Touting itself as the only German brewery in the Rockies is Bayern Brewing, 1507 Montana St. (www.bayernbrewery.com; 406/721-1482), with taproom hours of 10am to 8pm Monday through Friday and noon to 8pm Saturday and Sunday. Wine lovers can also get in on the tasting act in Missoula at Ten Spoon Winery, 4175 Rattlesnake Dr. (www.tenspoon.com; 877/549-8703 or 406/549-8703), typically open Thursday through Saturday nights from 5 to 9pm.

The Performing Arts

The Montana Repertory Theater, located at the University of Montana campus (www.montanarep.org; 406/243-6809), is the state’s only Equity company, performing new and classical works. The Missoula Children’s Theater is the largest touring children’s theater in the United States, performing original musical productions and featuring hundreds of talented children from communities across the States, Canada, and the Pacific Rim. The theater season starts early in June and continues through the end of March. The Missoula Community Theater provides a year-round calendar of family entertainment. Both the Children’s Theater and the Community Theater are located at 200 N. Adams St. (www.mctinc.org; 406/728-1911 or 728-7529 for the box office).

The Missoula Symphony Orchestra and Chorale, 320 E. Main St. (www.missoulasymphony.org; 406/721-3194), is composed of university students, Missoula residents, and other regional musicians, who often perform with featured guests in the University Theater on campus. The String Orchestra of the Rockies, P.O. Box 8265, Missoula, MT 59807 (www.sormt.org; 406/493-2990), a statewide professional string ensemble, is based in Missoula and performs almost exclusively there. At the University of Montana’s Music Recital Hall ( 406/243-6880), the school’s music department often brings in outstanding musicians to perform. Regularly scheduled recitals include solo and ensemble performances by faculty and students.

The Bitterroot Valley ★

Extends 89 miles S of Missoula to the Idaho border

Although in part a bedroom community for Missoula, the Bitterroot Valley has become a booming second-home and retirement paradise for folks who have fallen in love with the Missoula-area mountains, but not with the Missoula-area traffic. Though not as well known as other areas of the state, the fly-fishing in the Bitterroot River is excellent, making it a preferred destination for anglers in the know.

The Bitterroot has the reputation as Montana’s banana belt because the microclimate in the valley offers a long growing season. A lot of Missoula-area golf fanatics head to Hamilton in February because the golf course there greens up for play much earlier than the ones even a few miles farther north.

Getting Around & Visitor Information For maps, brochures, and sage advice about the area and its happenings, consult the Bitterroot Valley Chamber of Commerce, 105 E. Main St., Hamilton, MT 59840 (www.bvchamber.com; 406/363-2400).

Driving Tours

If you’d like to take a driving tour through the area (see the “Southwestern Montana” map), travel south on U.S. 93 to Florence, then cross the Bitterroot River and travel south on Mont. 203/263 through a 32-mile area filled with interesting landmarks, reconnecting with U.S. 93 at Hamilton. On your trip back, take U.S. 93 south through Hamilton, Victor, Darby, and Sula. As an alternative, continue south beyond Sula to Mont. 43, the road that leads to Wisdom. Doing so will take you winding through the valley and canyons of the Bitterroot Mountains, and you’ll finally emerge at the Big Hole Battlefield.

If you are feeling very brave, and you don’t mind getting your car beaten up on a rough dirt road, take the Skalkaho Pass Road to the east of Hamilton. Pick up Mont. 38 just south of Hamilton—up Skalkaho Creek. The pavement runs out after a few miles, and you’ll drive over a rocky, pitted, narrow road up through the Sapphire Mountains. Go slowly—the drop-offs here are as extreme as those along Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier National Park, but without the guardrails—but the views of forested hills are unsurpassed. It takes about 2 hours to cover the 54 miles to the Pintler Scenic Route, Mont. 1, which you pick up near Georgetown Lake.

Getting Outside

The Bitterroot Valley runs south along the Bitterroot River between the Bitterroot Range to the west and the Sapphire Mountains to the east. The Bitterroot Range is the site of the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, which, at 1.3 million acres, is one of the nation’s largest wilderness areas. Numerous trail heads are located off major highways between Lolo and Darby. You can get information about hiking in the wilderness from the Bitterroot National Forest’s Darby Ranger District Office, 712 N. Main St., Darby, MT 59829 (www.fs.fed.us/r1/bitterroot; 406/821-3913), open Monday through Friday from 8am to 4:30pm.

The Lake Como Recreation Area is a popular day-use and camping area with swimming, hiking, and boating. To get there, go 4 miles north from Darby on U.S. 93. Turn west on Lake Como Road and go about 2 1/2 miles to the area. There are 22 camping units in two different campgrounds for $8 to $16 a night and a “rustic” cabin on the lake for $60 per night. Reservations for the cabin are available through the National Recreation Reservation Service (www.recreation.gov; 877/444-6777); the campgrounds are first come, first served.

If it’s fly-fishing you’re seeking, check out Chuck Stranahan’s Flies and Guides, 105 State St. (P.O. Box 594), Hamilton, MT 59840 (www.chuck-stranahan.com; 406/363-4197), one of the longest-running acts in the Montana guiding business. Owner Chuck Stranahan is a nationally known fly-tier, with a number of his patterns chosen for the Jack Dennis fly-tying book, the bible of the business. He excels in instruction. His company customizes trips for its customers, with an emphasis on the Bitterroot River, though trips also go to other rivers in western Montana. Guided trips cost $400 to $450 per day for one or two people; personal instruction is $165 per person for a full day.

Seeing the Sights

The west side of the valley has fishing access as well as places to shop, eat, and stay. The historic section of the valley is on the east side of the river and is accessible at Florence, Stevensville, Victor, Pinesdale, and Hamilton.

Following are a lot of the attractions you’ll come across if you start driving at the north end of Mont. 203/269 and head south.

Eight miles south of Florence on Mont. 203, you’ll hit the Lee Metcalf National Wildlife Refuge (www.fws.gov/leemetcalf; 406/777-5552), which is free and open daily from dawn to dusk. This wetland habitat is the result of dikes and dams that impound the water of several streams. It has helped to improve migratory waterfowl habitats and has created a nesting success, but a number of other species benefit as well, including osprey and deer. A short loop trail, open from mid-July to mid-September, leads around several ponds and blinds in the refuge’s southwest corner. The picnic area is open year-round and has 2 1/2 miles of nature trails. Hunting for waterfowl is permitted on designated ponds during the fall duck-hunting season. Bow hunting for deer is also permitted, as is fishing, during their respective seasons. Near the entrance is the well-preserved exterior of the 1885 Whaley Homestead, an excellent example of vernacular frontier architecture. You can drive around the refuge on the dirt road and come out in Stevensville, the next stop on the tour.

Stevensville is the oldest town in Montana, the result of the early missionary work of the indefatigable Jesuit Father Pierre DeSmet, who founded St. Mary’s Mission in 1841. Capped with a bell tower, the mission is a small structure paneled with logs and white boards and an important place in the development of Montana—it was the first permanent structure in the state to be built by European Americans. John Owen bought the mission from the Jesuits in 1850 and established a trading post, Fort Owen. Though the issue of who first found gold in Montana will doubtless never be completely settled, in Owen’s diary in 1852, he wrote: “Hunting gold. Found some.”

From here, continue south on Mont. 203 to Hamilton and the Marcus Daly Mansion. Montana copper king Marcus Daly never did anything on a small scale, and his house is no exception. The Marcus Daly Mansion, 251 Eastside Hwy. (www.dalymansion.org; 406/363-6004), is a spectacular Georgian Revival mansion with classical porticoes on a lush 46-acre estate that is now an arboretum and botanic garden. It occupies 24,000 square feet on three floors, with 25 bedrooms, 15 bathrooms, and 7 fireplaces. The mansion was finished in 1910, after Daly’s death, and his widow, Margaret, lived there in the summers until her death in 1941. It’s typically open 10am to 3pm daily from May through October, as well as on weekends and December. Admission costs $9 for adults, $8 for seniors 50 and over, and $6 for kids 6 to 17 (free for 5 and under).

On the opposite side of the river, the village of Hamilton, several blocks long and 4 blocks wide, is worth a leisurely stroll because most of the businesses here are small, locally owned, and interesting. For outdoor gear, head to Bob Ward & Sons, 1120 N. 1st St. ( 406/363-6204), for a good selection of fishing, skiing, camping, and hunting equipment. Nearby is Robbins, 209 W. Main St. ( 406/363-1733), a nice shop that sells home furnishings, crystal, china, and gourmet kitchen accessories. The Chapter One bookstore, 252 W. Main St. ( 406/363-5220), featuring new and used books and periodicals, adjoins the unusually capitalized JitterZ, which sells all manner of espresso drinks. Also worth a look are Big Sky Candy, 319 W. Main St. (www.bigskycandy.com; 406/363-0580), and Art City, 407 W. Main St. ( 406/363-4764).

Where to Stay

Hamilton Super 8, 1325 N. 1st St., Hamilton, MT 59840 ( 800/800-8000 or 406/363-2940), is a clean, budget-minded motel with a location central to the Bitterroot Valley. Rooms typically run $65 to $85 for two people. The same holds true for the Best Western Hamilton Inn, 409 S. 1st St., Hamilton, MT 59840 ( 800/426-4586 or 406/363-2142), though the advantage here is the presentation of an excellent breakfast buffet and the fact that some rooms are equipped with microwaves and refrigerators. Double rooms typically run $85 to $105 per night. Southwest of town, the Lost Horse Creek Lodge, 100 Lost Horse Rd., Hamilton, MT 59840 (www.losthorsecreeklodge.com; 406/363-1460), abuts national forest land with its 22 cabins and lodge featuring a restaurant and a thoroughly Western 1890s saloon. Double rates in summer are $60 to $120.

Triple Creek Ranch ★★★ This is one of the most elegant, and expensive, guest ranches in the West. The ranch is an adults-only resort that encourages guests to relax and do things according to their own schedules. The luxury cabins have a king-size log-frame bed, complimentary wet bar, wood-burning fireplace, double steam shower, and golf cart for getting around the ranch. Activities include everything from cattle drives to art workshops; tennis rackets, fly-fishing gear, and horses are available to guests. The ranch is the only Montana property to meet the Relais & Châteaux standards. The Wall Street Journal called a stay here “roughing it Robin Leach style.” The on-site Triple Creek Dining Room serves gourmet cuisine for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, featuring a 2,000-bottle wine cellar and dramatic views.

5551 W. Fork Rd., Darby, MT 59829. www.triplecreekranch.com. 800/654-2943 or 406/821-4600. Fax 406/821-4666. 23 cabins. $750–$2,500 per couple, per night. Rates include meals, drinks, and activities. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bikes; concierge; exercise room; outdoor Jacuzzi; outdoor heated pool; room service; outdoor tennis court. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchenette, minibar, Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat

The Bitterroot Brew Pub, 101 Marcus St. (www.bitterrootbrewing.com; 406/363-7468), serves pub fare, burgers, tacos, and burritos, as well as its own excellent beers. The Spice of Life Cafe, 163 S. 2nd St. in Hamilton ( 406/363-4433), has creative offerings ranging from a Bitterroot strip steak to Thai curry noodles. A classic diner, the Kitchen, 102 S. 2nd St. ( 406/363-0903), is a local favorite for breakfast and lunch. If all your outdoor activities have you craving a juicy steak, try Bradley O’s Steakhouse, 1831 U.S. 93 S. ( 406/375-1110).

A Side Trip: Skiing & Hot Springs at Lost Trail Pass

Lost Trail Pass is a remote and undiscovered corner of Montana about 80 miles south of Missoula on the Idaho border. This area is heavily timbered but not heavily populated. It’s also off the beaten path because most travelers use I-15. This corner of the state is very pretty—with pine-covered peaks replacing the forbidding rock crags that dominate the skyline farther north.

With Lost Trail Powder Mountain, Lost Trail Hot Springs, and Camp Creek Inn, this pass area is an unforgettable winter vacation destination for those who loathe big crowds and the attendant ski scene.

Lost Trail Powder Mountain ski area recently expanded into a long, steeper area adjacent to the original hill, with five double lifts serving 1,800 acres in all, as well as three rope tows. Overall, the runs are mostly intermediate, with lots of light powder. If you like to ski the bumps but aren’t a fanatic about it, the moguls develop on the intermediate runs in the afternoon, just in time to wear you out completely. The full-day lift ticket prices are an excellent value, at $36 adults, $28 seniors 60 to 69, and $26 children 6 to 12; kids 5 and under ski free, and seniors 70 and over are $13. For more information, contact Lost Trail Powder Mountain, P.O. Box 311, Conner, MT 59827. Ski reports are available during the season at 406/821-3211 or online at www.losttrail.com. The ski area is 90 miles south of Missoula at the Montana–Idaho border, a quarter-mile from U.S. Hwy. 93.

Just down the hill to the north from the ski area is the unpretentious lodge and hot springs, Lost Trail Hot Springs Resort, 8221 U.S. 93 S., Sula, MT 59871 (www.losttrailhotsprings.com; 406/821-3574). The lodge arranges summer raft trips, horseback riding, and fishing. It isn’t fancy by urban standards, but the food in the restaurant, which overlooks the hot-springs pool, is good, especially if you enjoy basic American grub—burgers and pizzas. Nightly rates are $65 to $200 for lodge rooms and $80 to $210 for cabins. If you come just to soak, it’s $7.25 for adults, less for seniors and children.

The Flathead Indian Reservation & the Mission Valley

42 miles N of Missoula; 75 miles S of Kalispell

The Confederated Salish & Kootenai tribes make their home on the Flathead Indian Reservation, with tribal headquarters for the 1.3-million-acre reservation in Pablo. The tribes, however, own only slightly more than 50% of the land within reservation boundaries.

The change in culture for the tribes came quickly when fur traders, homesteaders, and the missionaries of the Catholic Church headed west. Founded in the early 1850s by Jesuit priests, the town of St. Ignatius (located 32 miles north of Missoula on U.S. 93) is nestled in the heart of the Mission Valley. One of the valley’s larger small towns, St. Ignatius has a modest Flathead Indian Museum and trading post on the highway. In Pablo, you’ll find another museum and gift shop, the People’s Center, 53253 U.S. 93 (www.peoplescenter.org; 406/883-5344), open Monday through Friday (and summer Saturdays) from 9am to 5pm; adult admission is $5.

Wildlife conservation and land management have played big parts in the lives of the tribal members. The Mission Mountains Tribal Wilderness was the first wilderness area officially designated as such by a tribe in the United States. Hiking in the wilderness area requires the purchase of a tribal permit from the Flathead Reservation Confederated Salish & Kootenai Tribes, 42487 Complex Blvd., Box 278, Pablo, MT 59855 (www.cskt.org; 406/675-2700). The Mission Mountains Wilderness is located in the Mission Mountain Range, east of U.S. 93. Numerous gravel roads lead up to the trail heads.

The St. Ignatius Mission, 300 Beartrack Ave., P.O. Box 667, St. Ignatius, MT 59865 ( 406/745-2768), was established in 1854 as an offshoot of the missionary work of the famous Jesuit Father Pierre DeSmet. A Father Hoecken began the mission in a small log cabin, which is still on the premises and serves as the visitor center. In 1891, the mission added this magnificent brick church in its ministry to the Indians. The ceiling is decorated with 58 murals, depicting scenes from the Old and New Testaments, by Brother Joseph Carignano, an Italian Jesuit without formal art training. The mission is 2 blocks off U.S. 93; visitor hours are 9am to 5pm daily.

The National Bison Range ★ (www.fws.gov/bisonrange/nbr; 406/644-2211), just west of St. Ignatius on reservation land, is 7 miles southwest of Charlo on C.R. 212. The 18,500 acres here contain between 350 and 500 bison, the remnants of a national bison herd that once totaled 60 million. The visitor center has a small display about the history and ecology of bison in America. The 19-mile Red Sleep Road goes through four different habitat types—grasslands, riparian, montane forest, and wetlands. In addition to the bison, you’ll see deer, bighorn sheep, antelope, and maybe an occasional coyote or black bear. There’s a trail here for people with physical disabilities. Gates are open from 7am to dusk daily year-round; the visitor center is open from 8am to 6pm weekdays, 9am to 6pm weekends in summer, and 8am to 4pm weekdays in winter. Cost is $5 per car (free in winter).

If you’re more interested in feathers than in fur, check out the Ninepipe National Wildlife Refuge (www.fws.gov/bisonrange/ninepipe; 406/644-2211), which is next to U.S. 93, 5 miles south of Ronan. Established in 1921, the refuge has more than 2,000 acres of water, marsh, and grassland for the double-crested cormorant and the great blue heron, among other migrating birds. The refuge is open daily from dawn to dusk, although portions are closed during the fall and early winter hunting season and the bird-nesting season in spring and early summer. Admission is free. Fishing is permitted in some areas of the adjacent Pablo Reservoir, but a tribal permit is required. For information on tribal fishing regulations, call 406/675-2700.

The Ninepipes Museum of Early Montana, 40962 U.S. 93, Charlo, MT 59824 (www.ninepipesmuseum.org; 406/644-3435), contains early Western art, American-Indian beadwork, wildlife displays, a life-size diorama of an Indian camp scene, and other displays on the area’s history. Admission costs $5 for adults, $4 for students, and $2.50 for children 6 to 12, and is free for children 5 and under. Call for current hours; the museum is closed in winter.

Where to Stay & Eat

Ninepipes Lodge Located across from the Ninepipe National Wildlife Refuge is this pleasant motel, with 25 standard motel rooms decorated with lodgepole furniture and a wildlife/nature theme. Your choice of king-size, queen-size, double, or twin beds is offered, and all units have TVs and telephones. There is also a restaurant on the premises, offering American selections for all three meals.

41000 U.S. 93, Charlo, MT 59824. www.ninepipeslodge.com. 406/644-2588. 25 units. $70–$92 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

A Side Trip to Hot Springs

Hot Springs is a funky little town of hand-painted signs and potholed streets, tucked into a cul-de-sac of low Montana mountains. Lots of visitors swear by the local waters’ therapeutic qualities, especially as a palliative for arthritis. Situated southwest of Polson, just off Mont. 28, the tiny community is about 1 1/2 hours from Flathead Lake.

The 1928 Symes Hotel ★, 209 Wall St. (www.symeshotsprings.com; 888/305-3106 or 406/741-2361), is a vaguely pink, Alamo-like structure that aspires to be Art Deco. You can rent rooms or just tubs in stalls that can be filled with the famous waters. Some rooms have their own tubs, and there are two small pools and a large soaking tub outside ($7 adult). Rooms run from about $50 to $140 a night, in a bewildering combination of options (you get claw-foot tubs and the occasional TV, but no phones). There’s also a day spa, a yoga studio, and a restaurant on the property. A funky 1935 motel with housekeeping apartments, Alameda’s Hot Springs Retreat, 308 N. Spring St. (www.alamedashotsprings.com; 406/741-2283), is a better option. Many of its rooms have soaking tubs; rates range from $50 to $100, including continental breakfast.

Wild Horse Hot Springs ( 406/741-3777), 5 miles northeast of town, offers a rather primitive soak in blue concrete tubs. This place is located several miles down a dirt road. The private rooms are each outfitted with a “plunge” (private pool), toilet, shower, steam room, and furniture that your grandmother would have found old-fashioned. But some people swear by the place and come back every year. There are only two kitchenette rooms to sleep in here, priced at about $80 to $100 a night. A soak costs $6 an hour per person.

For more information, contact the Hot Springs Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 627, Hot Springs, MT 59845 (www.hotspringsmtchamber.org; 406/741-2662).

The Flathead Lake Area: Somers, Polson & Bigfork ★★

Bigfork: 92 miles N of Missoula; 15 miles SE of Kalispell

The Flathead Valley

This is one of the most beautiful areas in Montana. Glacier National Park’s towering peaks rise from the valley floor on the east, and the mountains of the Flathead National Forest define the edge of the valley to the west. This is a land of forests, cattle, and alfalfa—with a velvet-green valley floor, green and granite mountains, and, on a sunny day, a dramatic deep-blue ceiling.

This part of Montana seems to offer something for everyone, whether your interests lie indoors or out. There are watersports on the lake and hikes that lead to sparkling mountain streams with views. But if you want to shop or see a play, you can easily spend your day inside the boutiques, galleries, and theater of Bigfork.

With much of this area lying within the tribal lands of the Salish and Kootenai, there is also a long-standing American-Indian heritage.

Essentials

Getting There Bigfork is located near the northeastern shores of Flathead Lake, 15 miles southeast of Kalispell by car, at the intersection of Mont. 35 and Mont. 83. Polson is at the southern tip of the lake, 33 miles southwest of Bigfork via Mont. 35 and 60 miles north of Missoula via U.S. 93. The nearest airports are Glacier Park International Airport (www.iflyglacier.com; 406/257-5994), north of the lake between Kalispell and Columbia Falls, and the Missoula International Airport (www.flymissoula.com; 406/728-4381) in Missoula. Bigfork is just a little more than a 30-minute drive from Glacier Park International; Polson is roughly midway between the two airports. For rental cars, Avis ( 800/230-4898), Budget ( 800/527-0700), Hertz ( 800/654-3131), and National ( 800/227-7368) maintain counters at each airport.

Visitor Information Your best bet for information on the south end of the lake is the Polson Chamber of Commerce, 418 Main St., Polson, MT 59860 (www.polsonchamber.com; 406/883-5969). For goings-on north, contact the Bigfork Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 237, Bigfork, MT 59911 (www.bigfork.org; 406/837-5888). The Flathead Convention and Visitor Bureau (www.fcvb.org; 800/543-3105 or 406/756-9091), Travel Montana (www.travelmt.com; 800/847-4868), and Glacier Country (www.glaciermt.com; 800/338-5072) can supplement this information.

Getting Outside

The Flathead is one of those rare places where you see the serious golfer and the serious backpacker in the same spot, sometimes in the same body. The golfing is excellent on several courses, and the backpacking, hiking, and fishing are even better. Fishing, boating, and yachting are popular sports for those who can afford to practice them. If your plans take you to one of the lakes or trails on the Salish and Kootenai reservation, don’t forget to buy a tribal permit.

Biking

Rentals and guided tours are available from Mountain Mike’s, 417 Bridge St., Bigfork ( 406/837-2453).

Boating

With Flathead Lake being the largest natural freshwater lake west of the Mississippi River, you can bet that this is a big boating destination. Boat rentals are available at the Kwa Taq Nuk Resort in Polson ( 800/882-6363), and to the north at Bigfork Marina and Boat Center ( 406/837-5556), Bayview Resort and Marina ( 406/837-4843), and Marina Cay Resort ( 406/837-5861).

Fixed-keel sailboats can be launched at the state parks around Flathead Lake. Big Arm, Yellow Bay, and Somers have fishing access. Because winds may blow hard during the afternoon, only ballasted boats are recommended on the main portion of the lake.

The Montana Department of Fish, Wildlife, and Parks has designated a Flathead Lake Marine Trail, showing point-to-point campsites and landing points that a human-powered craft like a canoe or kayak can reach in 1 day. You can obtain a brochure on the trail from the MFW&P (www.fwp.mt.gov; 406/752-5501) or from the Flathead Convention and Visitor Bureau in Kalispell ( 406/756-9091).

Cruises

Excursion cruises are a good way for visitors to check out Flathead Lake. The 65-foot Far West (www.flatheadlakeboattour.com; 406/844-2628) is one of the area’s oldest, with daily scenic cruises and occasional Sunday brunch cruises. Pointer Scenic Cruises (www.wildhorseislandboattrips.com; 406/837-5617) offers charter rides on high-speed powerboats that cruise to ancient pictographs viewable only by boat; this company also offers explorations of Wild Horse Island, dinner cruises, and custom tours. The Shadow cruise boat ( 406/883-3636) takes a 90-minute tour every day from the Kwa Taq Nuk resort marina in Polson, as well as dinner cruises on Wednesday and Sunday nights A sailboat excursion is available from Averill’s Flathead Lake Lodge ( 406/837-4391) on two classic racing sloops designed by L. Francis Herreshoff. Fewer than a dozen of these 51-foot “Q-Boats” remain in the world. There are a couple of 2-hour cruises daily from June to mid-September for $39 to $44 adults and $32 for kids 11 and under.

Fishing

Fishing the southern half of Flathead Lake requires a Salish and Kootenai tribal permit, which you can purchase at stores in Polson or at the tribal headquarters in Pablo. The brochure “Fishing the Flathead” is available from the Flathead Convention and Visitor Bureau ( 406/756-9091). It provides information on a number of different fishing opportunities, as well as an outline of the licensing and catch-and-release regulations. This brochure includes information on Whitefish, Flathead, and Swan lakes, and several lesser-known lakes where you can catch fish but avoid crowds. To increase your odds of snagging something besides a log, contact Glacier Fishing Charters ( 406/892-2377). A-Able Fishing (www.aablefishing.com; 406/257-5214) will also outfit a fishing trip with guides who know the area.

Golf

There are two golf courses—one terrific, the other just pretty good—overlooking the shores of Flathead Lake. In Polson, the 27-hole Polson Bay Golf Club public course is the pretty good one, situated just off the lake on U.S. 93 (www.polsonbaygolf.com; 406/883-8230). A round of 18 holes is $36 to $47. The course is fairly short—just more than 7,000 yards from the tips and about 6,000 from the white tees—but it’s very pretty and beautifully maintained.

The terrific course is Eagle Bend Golf Club ★★ (www.eaglebendgolfclub.com; 800/255-5641 or 406/837-7310), a challenging Jack Nicklaus–designed track with views of Flathead Lake and the surrounding mountains, located in Bigfork just off the highway on Holt Drive. The 18-hole course is about 6,300 yards from the white tees, but it’s extremely challenging. There are 27 excellent holes of golf here. Greens fees range from $38 to $95 for 18 holes, depending on the time of year. Golf Digest has called this one of the country’s top 50 courses. Be sure to call ahead for a tee time.

There are several other courses in the area. Contact the Flathead Valley Golf Association (www.golfmontana.net; 800/392-9795) for a free visitor’s guide and information regarding all of the courses.

Hiking

This is bear country, and hikers should work to avoid confrontations by making noise and being watchful. Don’t surprise them, and they won’t surprise you.

Besides strolling by the lake at one of the marinas or state parks, the best bet for trekking is in the Jewel Basin, a designated hiking area north of Bigfork. More than 30 miles of trails make it a great place for day hiking as well as overnights. Before dropping into the actual basin, you’ll get a great look at the Flathead Valley and Flathead Lake. For free maps of some of the more popular trails, inquire locally at one of the Forest Service offices in Kalispell ( 406/758-5200) or Bigfork ( 406/837-7500). To reach the head of the hiking area, take Mont. 83 from either Bigfork or Somers, turn north onto Echo Lake Road, and follow the signs.

A short hike, not far from Bigfork and about 45 minutes from the trail head, will take you to Estes Lake. Take County Road 209 out of Bigfork. Turn south at the Ferndale fire station. When the road forks, take the right fork, C. R. 498. It’s about a 7-mile drive from there to the parking area.

A slightly more ambitious but still short hike goes up to Cold Lakes in the Mission Mountains Tribal Wilderness. Take Mont. 83 south to C.R. 903. Turn right (west), then follow the road to the trail head. The hike is about an hour each way.

Rafting

The Flathead Raft Company (www.flatheadraftco.com; 800/654-4359 or 406/883-5838) runs half of its outfit from Polson at Riverside Park on U.S. 93 and half from Bigfork. Tours go down the South Fork of the Flathead River and include a swing through the Buffalo Rapids and Kerr Dam. Half-day white-water trips are $39 to $45, and full-day scenic trips range from $65 to $80. Meals and overnight trips are also available, as are guided kayaking expeditions.

Skiing

The Blacktail Mountain Ski Area (www.blacktailmountain.com; 406/844-0999) is working hard to make the Flathead Lake region a full-blown year-round resort area. There’s an average annual snowfall of 250 inches, which ought to be enough. The area is on more than 1,000 acres of national forest, served by two double chairs, a triple lift, and a handle tow. The hill is excellent for beginner and intermediate skiers, with 1,440 vertical feet of drop. Beginner terrain makes up 15% of the runs, 70% are rated intermediate, and 15% are for experts. There are two restaurants, a lounge, ski rental, a ski school, and a terrain park. Lift tickets for adults cost $36 full day, $30 half-day; children ages 13 to 17 cost $25 full day, $21 half-day; ages 8 to 12 are $16 for full day, $13 half-day; seniors 70 and older are $16 half- or full day; and children 7 and younger are free. Lifts open at 9:30am and close at 4:30pm Wednesday through Sunday and holidays (closed Mon–Tues). The area is located 14 miles west of Lakeside on Blacktail Mountain Road.

Exploring the Area

Bigfork Museum of Art and History This small but nicely staged museum in the village center offers a downstairs gallery with rotating art exhibits and an upstairs primer on the area’s history. The art in the gallery is often local and changes on a monthly basis; the historical exhibits include a nice collection of black-and-white photographs and cover the region’s cherry farming, the log-rolling laborers that were known as “river pigs,” lake ice harvests, and, of course, wild huckleberries.

525 Electric Ave., Bigfork. www.bigforkmuseum.org. 406/837-6927. Free admission. Summer Tues–Sat 10am–5pm; winter Tues–Sat 11am–5pm.

Bigfork Summer Playhouse For over 50 years, Bigfork has earned a fine regional reputation for its summer stock theatrical productions, performed by rising college-age stars. Performances of Broadway shows are scheduled from the end of May until early September. Recent productions include SHOUT!, Guys and Dolls, and Happy Days.

526 Electric Ave., Bigfork. www.bigforksummerplayhouse.com. 406/837-4886 for showtimes and reservations. Ticket prices vary but are usually around $25.

Miracle of America Museum and Pioneer Village This eccentric but often interesting museum contains an extensive collection of odds and ends dedicated to explaining the development of America, with specific attention to the Constitution and the Bill of Rights. Like most of these efforts, the place is heavily weighted toward the military side of the story, with plenty of guns, uniforms, and battle memorabilia. But unlike a lot of the roadside museums, there is at least some effort to explain what you’re looking at. There’s also a collection of antique Harley-Davidsons, dating as far back as 1912, and odds and ends ranging from comic books and Bibles to a two-headed calf trophy and a statue of a winged monkey.

58176 U.S. 93, Polson. www.miracleofamericamuseum.org. 406/883-6804. $5 adults, $4.50 seniors, $2 for children 3–12, free for children 2 and under. Summer daily 8am–8pm; rest of year Mon–Sat 8am–5pm, Sun 1:30–5pm.

The Mission Mountain Winery Montana’s only winery is located here on Flathead Lake, producing award-winning merlot along with chardonnay and pale ruby champagne. Tours of the small facility are free and take about 15 minutes. The winery produces 6,500 cases of wine a year. Although most of the wines produced here are white, the winery considers the reds to be the finer vintages. The pinot noir and pinot gris grapes are grown in vineyards around Flathead Lake.

82420 U.S. 93, Dayton. www.missionmountainwinery.com. 406/849-5524. May–Oct tastings daily 10am–5pm.

Shopping

Bigfork’s main street, Electric Avenue, is littered with a variety of galleries, gift shops, boutiques, and bookstores—and it’s only 4 blocks long. Twin Birch Square, 459 Electric Ave., is a two-level, pine-log shopping mall where you’ll find Artisans (www.bigforkart.com; 406/837-2789), featuring functional art from all over the country.

The Eric Thorsen Sculpture Gallery, 547 Electric Ave. (www.thorsengallery.com; 406/837-4366), handles artwork from the well-known sculptor. He is best known for the sculptures he has created for Trout Unlimited, the Wild Turkey Federation, and Ducks Unlimited (at last count, more than 12,000 fundraising pieces in total). His two-level gallery is a display case for bronze and wood creations; on the second level is the artist’s studio, where visitors are encouraged to observe the artist at work. Doors away is the gallery of Ken Bjorge (www.bjorgesculpturegallery.com; 877/837-3839), 603 Electric Ave., who also creates life-size studies of wildlife in bronze. Don’t be surprised to find yourself standing next to a 6-foot-tall crane or eagle while he works his craft in your presence.

Two River Gear, 603 Electric Ave. (www.tworivergear.net; 406/837-3474), deals in fly-fishing equipment and info, and Patagonia wear. Artfusion, 471 Electric Ave. ( 406/837-3526), is an eclectic gallery that represents more than 60 contemporary Montana artists and craftspeople. Around the corner, at Bay Books & Prints, 350 Grand Dr. ( 406/837-4646), there are rare books and first editions. The owners carry an extensive collection of books about the explorers Lewis and Clark, some very rare and in good condition.

If you’re looking for an authentic yet unusual gift item with a Western theme, visit Electric Avenue Gifts ( 406/837-4994), 490 Electric Ave. For delectable jams and syrups, try Eva Gates Homemade Preserves, 456 Electric Ave. (www.evagates.com; 406/837-4356), which has been in the business since 1949.

Shopping in Polson at the other end of Flathead Lake is less of an upscale experience, but Three Dog Down, 48841 U.S. 93 (www.threedogdown.com; 800/364-3696) sells comforters, coats, pillows, duvets, and other cold-weather gear. Owner Robert “Bronco Bob” Ricketts is a former opera singer who moved from Cincinnati to Polson to start a low-key dream business. Prices for high-quality down goods are lower here than in more fashionable metropolitan stores.

A Visit to Wild Horse Island

Wild Horse Island, one of the largest islands in the inland United States at 2,000 acres, is run as a wildlife preserve by the Montana Department of Fish, Wildlife, and Parks (http://fwp.mt.gov; 406/752-5501). It contains one of the last remnants of Montana’s endangered Palouse prairie plant and provides a habitat for bighorn sheep, mule deer, coyotes, and a few wild horses. The island was originally created more than 17,000 years ago as a result of heavy glacial activity that formed the entire area. Sensitivity by the human visitors who visit this unusual environmental preserve is essential—please leave no traces of your visit. The park is open for day use only and can be reached only by boat. Several boat tours go to Wild Horse Island as well. You can take one from Bigfork with Pointer Scenic Cruises ( 406/837-5617). Note: There are no visitor services on the island.

Where to Stay

There are five campgrounds in Flathead Lake state parks, each located at a different point around the lake: Big Arm ( 406/849-5255) and West Shore ( 406/844-3044) on the west side of the lake; and Finley Point ( 406/887-2715), Yellow Bay ( 406/982-3034), and Wayfarers ( 406/837-4196) on the east shore. The phone numbers are operational only in summer. You can also call 406/752-5501 for information on any of these state park campgrounds, most of which are open May through September, charging $23 ($15 for Montana residents) per night.

Accommodations on and near the lake include guest ranches, water-oriented resorts with the gamut of recreational opportunities, and basic motels that offer clean but modest rooms. Of the last category, a good option is America’s Best Value Port Polson Inn, 502 U.S. 93 E., Polson, MT 59860 (www.portpolsoninn.com; 800/654-0682 or 406/883-5385), with an excellent view of the lake. Rates run $129 to $150 double rooms, and $225 to $300 for a family apartment with a kitchenette; rates are lower in winter.

Averill’s Flathead Lake Lodge ★★★ This is the best all-around vacation experience on the lake. A beautiful log lodge surrounded by thousands of acres of forest serves as your home base for all activities, which include horseback riding, boating, and fishing. The Western dude ranch experience is done right at this place, complete with sing-alongs, campfires, and barn dances. The location and the atmosphere of this place (the Averills perfectly combine a ranching lifestyle with the summer vacation experience) make this one of the top picks in the state. Scattered around the property are 20 two- and three-bedroom cabins, featuring simple Western-style furnishings. Inside the lodge are 19 guest rooms, just as woodsy but smaller, which sleep up to four and have queen-size beds and a pair of twin beds in a loft. Meals are served family style in the main lodge—the food is top-notch.

P.O. Box 248, Bigfork, MT 59911. www.flatheadlakelodge.com. 406/837-4391. Fax 406/837-6977. 19 lodge rooms, 20 cabins. $3,248 per adult, per week (based on 1-week minimum stay); $1,358–$2,394 children 3–18; $170 children 2 and under. Rates include all meals and ranch activities. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Babysitting; children’s program; 4 tennis courts; extensive watersports equipment; Wi-Fi (free). In room: No phone.

Best Western Plus Kwa Taq Nuk Resort ★ This Best Western affiliate is a top-draw resort managed and owned by the Salish and Kootenai Indian tribes. It’s the nicest property on the Polson end of the lake and offers a restaurant, marina, and art gallery. It’s also the best decorated, with interesting and artful American-Indian works on the walls. Lakeside rooms have commanding views, enhanced by decks furnished with chairs and cocktail tables. All the rooms are large and amply furnished. The main lobby level is home to both a lounge and a casino, with stunning lakeside views. The lower level has a restaurant as well as a comfortable sitting area and a swimming pool. This is the most expensive property on this end of the lake, but the amenities make it worth the extra money.

303 U.S. 93, Polson, MT 59860. www.kwataqnuk.com. 800/882-6363 or 406/883-3636. Fax 406/883-5392. 112 units, including 1 suite. $156–$171 double; $215 suite; lower rates fall to spring. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (steakhouse); lounge; concierge; Jacuzzi; indoor and outdoor pools; watersports rentals. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Bridge Street Cottages ★★ Nestled into a nicely wooded area adjacent to the Swan River, these cottages are very clean and comfortable, sporting original art, granite countertops, and terrific attention to detail. The units sleep from two to six guests, ranging from hotel-like “cottage suites” to charming “river cottages,” with full kitchens, laundry rooms, and porches fronting the river. All in all, this is a terrific base for couples and families alike, and the nicely landscaped property balances privacy with easy walking access to the village center.

309 Bridge St., Bigfork, MT 59911. www.bridgestreetcottages.com. 888/264-4974 or 406/837-2785. 12 units. Summer $185–$295 double; rest of year $95–$245 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. In room: A/C, TV w/VCR or DVD, kitchen, Wi-Fi (free).

The Candlewycke Inn ★ Tucked away on 10 acres of pine forest at the foot of the Swan Mountains in dinky Ferndale, this luxurious and large B&B is a modern home that innkeeper Megan Ward converted into a first-rate inn. The parlor, with 30-foot ceilings and an exposed pine staircase, draws you into a comfortable living space bedecked with an attractive selection of folk art. The large rooms have private bathrooms (two have hot tubs) and range from the somewhat frilly Botanical (with a canopied king-size bed, large bathroom, and private entry) to the rugged Wilderness (adorned with animal hides and two queen-size beds). There’s a trail system on the property, an immaculate lawn, and all sorts of little touches—such as antlers converted to backscratchers. The breakfasts, anything from orange-cheese blintzes to spinach-artichoke-mushroom Italian eggs, are tailored to the dietary needs of guests.

311 Aero Lane, Bigfork, MT 59911. www.candlewyckeinn.com. 888/617-8805 or 406/837-6406. 5 units. $135–$185 double; $265 suite. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Marina Cay Resort ★ Boasting the most protected harbor on the lake, Marina Cay is a nice resort right on the water on the outskirts of Bigfork. The recently remodeled rooms are very large, and most open to a view on the water. The place attracts a few celebrities, including basketball legend Shaquille O’Neal, whose size 23 shoes are on display in the restaurant. Rooms here are sizable, and there is a wide variety to choose from, but the walls in the older buildings are on the thin side and noise carries from room to room. The restaurant, Champs, serves food in the summer, with a sports-bar atmosphere. The summer-only Tiki Bar serves drinks by the pool under flaming gas lamps.

180 Vista Lane, Bigfork, MT 59911. www.marinacay.com. 800/433-6516 or 406/837-5861. Fax 406/837-1118. 115 units. $135–$210 double; $249–$379 condo. Lower rates in off season. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant (American); lounge; concierge; 2 Jacuzzis; outdoor pool; extensive watersports rentals. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, kitchenette, Wi-Fi (free).

Mountain Lake Lodge ★★ Unlike many of its peers, Mountain Lake Lodge focuses on accommodations, not recreation, and its single-mindedness shows. The highlights of the hotel, located 5 miles south of Bigfork, are the idyllic courtyard—with a pool, a waterfall, and the best view on the lake—and the rooms, each with a sitting area, fireplace, lake view, and deck or patio. Located in one of five buildings, all have a king-size bed in an imposing log frame and a queen-size sofa sleeper; many have Jacuzzis. The restaurant, Terra, serves steak and seafood, or you can grab a wood-fired pizza in the pub. The entire property is nonsmoking.

1950 Sylvan Dr., Bigfork, MT 59911. www.mountainlakelodge.com. 877/823-4923 or 406/837-3800. Fax 406/837-3861. 30 units, including 15 suites. $239 double; $239–$285 suite. Lower rates in off season. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; exercise room; outdoor Jacuzzi; seasonal outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, kitchen, Wi-Fi (free).

Swan River Inn ★ Located in the heart of Bigfork, the Swan River Inn has a decidedly European feel, injected with a fair amount of whimsy to boot. Each of the eight rooms is quite distinctive. The large log-cabin suite is decorated to resemble, well, a log cabin. The Arabian suite is an Aladdin-style fantasy come to life. The Art Deco suite hearkens back to the 1920s. All have beautifully restored bathrooms. Upstairs, the Swan River Dinner House serves steak, pork loin, rack of lamb, and a number of chicken and pasta dishes. The second dining room (served from the same kitchen), the Grotto, is a lounge transformed into a beautiful French-inspired facility complete with heavy wood furniture, stucco walls, and wrought-iron fixtures. The inn also manages several off-site condos and log homes for $195 to $400 nightly.

360 Grand Ave., Bigfork, MT 59911. www.swanriverinn.com. 406/837-2220. Fax 406/837-2327. 8 units. $145–$350 summer; $115–$250 fall to spring. DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; rooftop garden cafe. In room: A/C, TV, no phone, Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat

Bigfork has cornered the market on fine dining on the lake. Flathead residents from Whitefish and Kalispell routinely make their way to Bigfork to eat and take in a play at the Bigfork Summer Playhouse. Aside from the options below, the restaurant at the Swan River Inn (see above) is also recommended.

La Provence ★★ FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN Marc Guizol, the affable chef/owner of La Provence, made his way to Bigfork after his culinary career took him to the Ritz-Carlton in Naples and Caesars Palace in Las Vegas. In his own eatery, Guizol’s experience shines. The dinner menu is filled with lovingly prepared French standards, from escargot on a puff pastry to roasted duck and grilled filet mignon. He also seasonally mixes in a few game dishes and classic European desserts. The room itself is an airy, pleasant space with a simple country French flair. For lunch, the restaurant’s deli serves light fare: quiche, pastries, and sandwiches.

408 Bridge St., Bigfork. www.bigforklaprovence.com. 406/837-2923. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8–$10 lunch, $17–$29 dinner. AE, MC, V. No credit cards at lunch. Mon–Sat 11am–2pm; daily 5–9pm. Closed Sun–Mon in winter.

Pocketstone Cafe ★ AMERICAN A busy, homey, and picture-perfect cafe, the Pocketstone fits the bill for breakfast and lunch. Early risers will love the omelets, egg dishes, grits and oversize cinnamon rolls, while lunch-goers can’t miss with the burgers or fry-bread tacos, or big salads. The homemade soups are out of this world (servers are sometimes asked if the cafe specializes in soups); Pa’s Montana Chicken Noodle Soup is superlative, but ask about the soup of the day as well.

444 Electric Ave., Bigfork. www.pocketstonecafe.com. 406/837-7223. Main courses $5–$10 breakfast, $7–$11 lunch. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6am–3pm.

ShowThyme ★★ NEW AMERICAN When you ask locals what the best restaurant in town is, they’ll more often than not tell you ShowThyme—the restaurant that’s located next to the summer playhouse. The atmosphere is a little bit New York, a little bit Montana. With a chef named Blu Funk and a manager named Rose Funk, you know the food has to be colorful. And it is: The Funks serve up everything from rack of lamb to sirloin steaks to chiles rellenos, plus nightly specials, all with a touch of creative flair. The king salmon is excellent, as is the filet mignon.

548 Electric Ave., Bigfork. www.showthyme.com. 406/837-0707. Reservations recommended. Main courses $15–$29. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 5–9pm. Often closed for several weeks in Jan and/or Feb.

Tiebuckers Pub and Eatery AMERICAN Located in the old railroad depot in the sleepy town of Somers, Tiebuckers is a good restaurant that is prized by the locals. The fresh fish and steamed clams keep the crowds coming, but the menu also offers a good variety of beef and pasta. The chicken in Grandpa’s Sauce (a family secret) are also excellent. There’s also a selection with sandwiches and other inexpensive dishes.

75 Somers Rd., Somers. 406/857-3335. Reservations recommended for parties of 6 or more. Main courses $7–$25. DISC, MC, V. Wed–Sat 5–9pm.