Chapter 9: Bozeman, South-Central Montana & the Missouri Headwaters

Relatively pristine, south-central Montana is a world-class playground for the outdoor recreation enthusiast. Its biggest draws are the mountains that are a haven for hikers and campers, and the fly-fishing waters of the four major rivers that run through its valleys—the Madison, Jefferson, Gallatin, and Yellowstone.

During the winter, downhill skiing takes over at Bridger Bowl, Big Sky, which boasts the largest vertical drop of any hill in the United States (4,350 ft.), and the adjacent Moonlight Basin resort, which combine for the most terrain of any resort in the country. The region is also excellent for cross-country skiing—Lone Mountain Ranch and Bohart Ranch are two of the best Nordic skiing facilities in the state.

Booming Bozeman, home of Montana State University, provides the hip, intellectual charm and culture of a college town—good bookstores and restaurants, charming shops, a lively bar scene—as well as cultural events that appeal to both the cosmopolitan and cowboy cultures. The Livingston Rodeo, one of the best in the region, complements Bozeman’s Sweet Pea Festival, a celebration of music and the performing arts.

A few years ago, the area around Bozeman bounded by the Bridger, Gallatin, Madison, and Tobacco ranges seemed like an undiscovered bargain for real estate opportunists. Those times have changed; the communities of Bozeman, Livingston, and Belgrade experienced a boom as newcomers moved in, attracted to the easygoing Montana lifestyle and the wide range of outdoor activities. It’s also been discovered by a number of Hollywood types, such as Peter Fonda and Glenn Close, who have purchased real estate in the area. Media mogul Ted Turner is another famous part-time resident.

South-Central Montana

A Scenic Drive

The Bozeman–Livingston–Three Forks area is one large intersection. Interstate 90 runs east to west through this region, and from it, three valley highways extend south or north. The westernmost of these highways, U.S. 287, passes through Three Forks and runs 120 miles south along the Madison Valley to the town of Ennis (a fishing mecca) and West Yellowstone, the western gateway to Yellowstone National Park. From Bozeman, U.S. 191 parallels U.S. 287 down the Gallatin Valley, past the resort community of Big Sky, to West Yellowstone.

The third highway, U.S. 89, runs 57 miles south from Livingston through the Paradise Valley to Gardiner and the north entrance of Yellowstone. Though the area is populated primarily by ranchers and there are few developed attractions, it’s a beautiful drive, especially through Yankee Jim Canyon.

Red Lodge can be reached a few different ways, but the most scenic is by taking I-90 to exit 408 at Columbus and heading south on Mont. 78 through Absarokee and Roscoe for 48 miles.

The Beartooth Scenic Byway

This loop drive takes you to altitudes of almost 11,000 feet, taking in the sights that led Charles Kuralt to call this the most scenic road in America.

Begin in Livingston. Drive south on U.S. 89, following the Yellowstone River through Paradise Valley, 53 miles to Gardiner, and then into Yellowstone National Park. Once inside the park, you can stop off at Mammoth Hot Springs, a geothermal wonderland just inside the park’s northern boundary. Then, take the road from Mammoth Hot Springs east to Tower Junction, continuing east to the park’s northeast entrance at Silver Gate to pick up U.S. 212 (this is the Beartooth Byway). From here, the road begins to wind upward along the Montana and Wyoming border for nearly 40 ear-popping miles until it reaches the Beartooth Pass (elevation 10,947 ft.). From that spectacular altitude, you’ll see miles and miles of mountains across both Wyoming and Montana. The road then drops for 24 miles as the byway continues on to Red Lodge. From Red Lodge, drive north on Mont. 78 down into the high plains before heading back to the mountains of Bozeman, west on I-90. The entire trip takes between 6 and 8 hours, depending on the time of day you choose to drive it and the condition of the roads. Note: The Beartooth Byway is especially subject to the whims of Mother Nature; mudslides have closed the road regularly in recent history. For current information, contact the Montana Department of Transportation (www.mdt.mt.gov; 406/444-6200; 800/226-7623 or 511 for road conditions).

Bozeman ★★

82 miles E of Butte; 142 miles W of Billings; 91 miles N of West Yellowstone

Bozeman

A college town and tourism hot spot with a friendly, semi-bohemian vibe, Bozeman was first settled in the 1860s as a farming hub. Today, its cowboy edge has been mostly chipped away, revealing a sophisticated Western chic in the form of a vibrant downtown strip filled with independent shops and restaurants. The area bustles all year long—whatever the season, the locals are always out and about. The city has also become the unofficial capital of Montana environmental politics, with several nationally important nonprofits based here.

Bozeman has experienced its greatest growth since 1990, and it shows little sign of slacking off. In fact, longtime residents worry that the town may be getting a little too hip. But it’s easy to see the city’s appeal. The university, Montana State, is a good one, and the downhill skiing at nearby Bridger Bowl is excellent and free of lift lines. The fact that Bozeman is less than 100 miles from Yellowstone certainly doesn’t hurt, either.

Essentials

Getting There Bozeman’s Gallatin Field Airport (www.bozemanairport.com; 406/388-8321) serves a wide region in this part of the state. Daily service is available from Delta, Alaska/Horizon, Frontier, United Express, US Airways, and Allegiant.

Bus service is available through Greyhound, with a terminal at 1205 E. Main St. (www.greyhound.com; 406/587-3110). Rimrock Stages ( 800/255-7655) operates intrastate service.

By car, I-90 handles most of the traffic. It is 140 miles along I-90 from Billings to the east and 202 miles from Missoula to the west. For statewide road reports, call 800/226-7623 or 511.

Visitor Information The Bozeman Convention and Visitors Bureau is located at 2000 Commerce Way (www.bozemancvb.com; 800/228-4224 or 406/586-5421). Information is also available at the Downtown Bozeman Visitor Center (www.downtownbozeman.com; 406/586-4008) at 224 E. Main St. The state’s Yellowstone Country publishes an extensive visitors guide, as well as maps detailing the area’s farms and historic hot spots. Call 406/736-5276, or check out their website at www.yellowstonecountry.net.

Getting Around There are a number of car-rental agencies in Bozeman. Most major chains are at the airport, including Budget ( 800/527-0700), Enterprise ( 800/261-7331), Hertz ( 800/654-3131), and National ( 800/227-7368). For taxi service, call Greater Valley Taxi ( 406/388-9999).

With retro designs inspired by vintage Yellowstone buses, the free Streamline Bus (www.streamlinebus.com; 406/587-2434) connects downtown Bozeman with the Montana State campus and points beyond (namely the airport and Belgrade). Buses run from Monday through Saturday from about 7am to 6:30pm, with later service (8:30pm–3am) Thursday through Saturday for the bar crowd.

Special Events Held the first full weekend each August, the Sweet Pea Festival, at Lindley Park and throughout Bozeman (www.sweetpeafestival.org; 406/586-4003), is a music, arts, and sports festival, with a parade, bands from rock to reggae, dance, art, and even a little Shakespeare. Unspooling over 6 days in early October, Hatch (www.hatchexperience.com; 406/600-7642) is an audiovisual arts festival that has grown to encompass all sorts of other creative areas. The schedule includes film screenings, workshops, Q&As, and live music after dark.

Getting Outside

Many of the outdoor activities discussed in this section take place in the Gallatin National Forest. For additional information, including current road and trail conditions, contact the Bozeman Ranger District, 3710 Fallon St., Ste. C, Bozeman, MT 59718 (www.fs.usda.gov/gallatin; 406/522-2520).

Organized Adventures

Yellowstone Safari Company ★★ (www.yellowstonesafari.com; 866/586-1155 or 406/586-1155) specializes in wildlife-biologist-guided trips in Montana, at Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks, and along the Lewis and Clark Trail. Founded by biologist Ken Sinay—he’s been described as “Vesuvian in his enthusiasm”—the company offers guide services for both individuals and groups. Using specially adapted vehicles and boats, their activities include single- and multiday safari-style expeditions to observe wildlife and explore the natural and cultural history of the area. Full-day trips include guides, transportation, binoculars, spotting scopes, food, and beverages. Rates depend on group size and the kind of tour, with full-day rates varying from $650 for one or two people to about $160 per person for seven people. A half-day safari is $99 per person. Advance reservations are required—the earlier, the better.

Founded by Susan Eckert in 1982 and the first of its kind, AdventureWomen ★, 300 Running Horse Trail, Bozeman (www.adventurewomen.com; 800/804-8686 or 406/587-3883), offers customized trips to just about anywhere in the world for active and adventurous women ages 30 and older. In Montana, the company guides hiking trips as well as skiing and guest-ranch trips. Rates for the weeklong outings start at $2,595 per woman.

In the guiding business since 1985, Off the Beaten Path ★, 7 E. Beall St., Bozeman (www.offthebeatenpath.com; 800/445-2995), is another top-notch local guiding outfit. The company offers about a dozen trips throughout Wyoming and Montana each year, with an emphasis on Yellowstone and Grand Teton, with expeditions that run the gamut from family outings to wolf-watching. The trips range from 4 to 10 days in length, and prices typically run between $300 and $500 per day.

Biking

There are plenty of biking opportunities here, mostly off-pavement. Some of the best mountain biking is in the Gallatin National Forest—check with the Bozeman Ranger District office (see “Getting Outside,” above) for tips on where to go.

Cross-Country Skiing

If you want to explore on your own, many drainages provide excellent skiing around Bozeman. Some local favorites are the 10-mile, moderately difficult Bozeman Creek to Mystic Lake Trail that gains 1,300 feet of elevation over its course (go south of S. 3rd St. for 4 miles to Nash Rd., then east on Nash Rd. for a mile to Bozeman Creek Rd., then 1 mile south to the parking area) and the Hyalite Reservoir Ski Loop, a 4-mile, relatively flat track around the Hyalite Reservoir, also rated moderately difficult (see the “Hiking” section, below). The road may not be plowed or maintained in winter. Two ski mountaineering routes for the adventurous are the 14-mile Hyalite Ski Loop and the 5 1/2-mile New World Gulch to Mystic Lake Trail. Check with the Bozeman Ranger District office (see “Getting Outside,” above) for directions.

Bohart Ranch, 16621 Bridger Canyon Rd., Bozeman, MT 59715 (www.bohartranchxcski.com; 406/586-9070), next to the Bridger Bowl downhill area, offers 16 miles of groomed and tracked trails for all levels of skiers. There is a biathlon range, a ski school, and ski rentals. Located in Bridger Canyon, 17 miles northeast of Bozeman on U.S. 86, it’s open in winter daily from 9am to 4pm and summer daily from dawn to dusk. Cost is $15 for adults, $8 for children 7 to 12, and free for seniors and kids 6 and under.

Downhill Skiing

The nonprofit Bridger Bowl is just 16 miles north of town, on Mont. 86 (15795 Bridger Canyon Rd., Bozeman, MT 59715; www.bridgerbowl.com; 800/223-9609 or 406/587-2111). Although not as steep as Teton Village in Jackson Hole, Bridger Bowl is plenty steep for most of us, and a great hill for good skiers. Among the 71 trails here on 2,000 acres, there is a lot of advanced and extreme terrain (50%), tempered by 50% beginner and intermediate terrain. Full-day lift tickets cost $48 adults, $21 seniors 70 to 79, $16 children 7 to 12, and free for those 6 and under or 80 and over; half-day rates are available. There are five lifts: a fixed-grip quad, three triple chairs, and three doubles. With almost 30 feet of snowfall annually, Bridger sees a lot of powder days. It’s usually open from the second Friday in December to early April, daily from 9am to 4pm. There is limited lodging on the mountain; a free shuttle runs from Bozeman. And there are seldom any lift lines. For more downhill skiing in the Bozeman area, see Big Sky and Moonlight Basin in the Gallatin Valley section, later in this chapter.

Fishing

The River’s Edge, 2012 N. 7th Ave. (www.theriversedge.com; 406/586-5373), is a highly professional fly-fishing specialty shop “in the heart of Montana’s blue-ribbon trout streams.” They offer guided fishing trips year-round—including float fishing and walking or wading trips, plus equipment rental and shuttle service. A full-line Orvis shop, Montana Troutfitters, 1716 W. Main St. (www.troutfitters.com; 800/646-7847 or 406/587-4707), offers guided float, walk and wade, and tube trips to rivers, lakes, and streams, plus 2- and 4-day fly-fishing schools. The Troutfitters are especially good at teaching youngsters the basics of the sport. The Bozeman Angler, 23 E. Main St. (www.bozemanangler.com; 800/886-9111 or 406/587-9111), provides guided trips in the Madison, Gallatin, Yellowstone, Jefferson, and Missouri rivers, plus numerous creeks, reservoirs, and lakes. Anglers can choose float trips in hard-sided drift boats, walk-and-wade trips, or backcountry fishing trips. From all three, full-day guided trips typically run $400 to $500 for two people, a price that includes lunch.

Golf

Bridger Creek Golf Course, 2710 McIlhattan Rd. (www.bridgercreek.com; 406/586-2333), offers a scenic and challenging 18-hole layout, 6,400 yards from the back tees. It costs $33 for 18 holes on the weekend, $31 during the week. Carts are $28 for two people. Cottonwood Hills Golf Course, 8955 River Rd. (www.cottonwoodhills.com; 408/587-1118), has an 18-hole course and a par-3 executive 9-hole course. Greens fees run $24 to $40 at the former ($28 for carts) and $7 to $10 at the latter ($16 carts).

Hiking

There’s a beautiful and popular hiking area near Bozeman, known as the Hyalite drainage, in the Gallatin National Forest (see “Getting Outside,” above, for contact information). The area includes Hyalite Canyon and reservoir, Palisades Falls Trail, and many trail heads for access to the national forest. A lot of the trails here are steep and difficult, though. An excellent introductory hike to get the lay of the land is the .5-mile Palisades Falls National Recreation Trail. From Bozeman, take 19th Avenue south for 7 1/2 miles to the Hyalite Canyon Road, and follow the road to the reservoir. Continue east around the reservoir for 2 miles to the East Fork Road and proceed to the Palisades Falls parking area. The trail gains 540 feet in a little more than .5 mile, which makes it very steep and gives it a rating of “most difficult” for a recreational trail.

Hyalite Reservoir itself contains cutthroat and grayling, and there are two campsites here. The Grotto Falls Trail is a steep 1.25-mile graveled trail to Grotto Falls, located 13 miles up the West Fork Road in Hyalite Canyon. For a longer hike, go the 7.25 miles up the Hyalite Peak Trail to the peak. There is a 3,300-foot elevation gain on this hike.

The Gallatin Valley Land Trust’s “Main Street to the Mountains” project has connected downtown Bozeman with a 50-mile network that connects with the surrounding communities and mountain ranges. For more information, visit www.gvlt.org/trails.

If you’re interested in combining a little bird-watching with your hiking, try the Kirk Hill nature preserve in the foothills transition zone, where you might spot a colorful western tanager or a great gray owl. From downtown, take South 19th Avenue south for 5 miles until the road curves west. The entrance to the preserve is on the left. There are several miles of steep trails here.

White-Water Rafting

Montana Whitewater (www.montanawhitewater.com; 800/799-4465 or 406/763-4465) can get you sprayed in the face by the waters of both the Yellowstone and the Gallatin rivers. You paddle the raft as you fly through the nearly continuous rapids of the Gardiner section of the upper Yellowstone or through the dauntingly named rapids of Snake Bite and Mother Eater on the Gallatin. In addition to the white-water trips, the company offers more sedate scenic trips and “saddle and paddle” outings in which the morning is spent riding and the afternoon rafting. Half-day trips on the Gallatin cost $52 adults, $42 ages 12 and under; on the Yellowstone, it’s $39 and $29, respectively. Full-day Gallatin trips cost $86 adults and $70 ages 12 and under, and on the Yellowstone $75 and $55, respectively. “Paddle and saddle” jaunts that mix rafting and horseback riding are $127 per adult per day and $117for kids 10 to 12 (under 10 not recommended). Wild West Whitewater Rafting (www.wildwestrafting.com; 800/862-0557) offers similar trips on Yellowstone River, including half- and full-day rafting tours ($39–$77 adults; $29–$57 kids 6–12).

Where to Find Equipment & Supplies

It’s easy to find whatever outdoor recreation equipment you need for your particular adventure. Among the rental outlets I recommend are Panda Sports Rentals, 621 Bridger Dr. ( 406/587-6280), which rents skis and snowboards; Chalet Sports, 108 W. Main St. ( 406/587-4595), a full-line sporting goods store that sells skis, as well as rents bikes, in-line skates, skis, and snowboards; and Northern Lights Trading Co., 1716 W. Babcock ( 866/586-2225), a high-end store selling gear for everything from kayaking to Telemark skiing, and renting canoes, rafts, and kayaks. These stores are also great sources for advice.

Seeing the Sights

American Computer Museum ★ Now located near the MSU campus, this unique museum traces the history of computing technologies from the abacus to the Apple. In an hour or so, you can catch up on more than 4,000 years of computing history and gain a newfound respect for the speed of innovation during the past few decades. Though you won’t find any T. rexes here, you can view computing’s dinosaurs: slide rules and massive antique computers with a mere fraction of the power of today’s superpowered miniatures. There are also special displays on women in science, chipmaking, and video games, along with a rare reproduction of the 2,000-year-old Antikythera, the world’s first computer.

2023 Stadium Dr., Unit 1-A. www.compustory.com. 406/582-1288. Suggested donation $5 adults, $4 students and seniors 65 and over, free for children 5 and under. June–Aug daily 10am–4pm; Sept–May Tues–Sun noon–4pm. Closed major holidays.

Children’s Museum of Bozeman This converted warehouse space is now the only museum of its kind in the Gallatin Valley. Exhibits include arts-and-crafts tables, a “bubble wall” that allows kids to make a barrier from suds, a 110-gallon aquarium with native Montana fish, and other displays designed to educate and entertain young minds.

202 S. Willson Ave. www.cmbozeman.org. 406/522-9087. $5 per person. Mon–Sat 10am–5pm (Fri until 8pm). Closed Sun and major holidays.

The Emerson Center for the Arts & Culture ★ Once a home for schoolchildren, this historic building (ca. 1918) was converted in 1993 into an arts and cultural center. The nonprofit organization hosts a variety of professional and contemporary art exhibits, offers a fine-arts education program, and provides retail and studio space for more than 80 artists in converted schoolrooms. The Emerson also hosts free community events, such as Lunch on the Lawn in summer, with live music and food vendors every Wednesday afternoon; special holiday activities in December; and other concerts, events, and activities year-round. There is also a restaurant (the Emerson Grill; see “Where to Eat,” below) and a theater and ballroom for a variety of programs.

111 S. Grand Ave. www.theemerson.org. 406/587-9797. Free admission. Building daily 8am–10pm; galleries have individual hours.

Gallatin County Pioneer Museum Located in the old county jail, which was in use until 1982, this museum features county history, focusing in part on law enforcement (as you might expect), the area’s military history, and local daily life of the past. There’s a display and memorabilia from actor Gary Cooper, known as Frank in the days he grew up in Bozeman and Helena, and the lowdown on town founder John Bozeman. The museum also contains a cell from its days as the jail. There’s also a collection of 11,000 historical photos and a research library devoted to Lewis and Clark. Expect to spend about an hour here if you want to dig deep.

317 W. Main St. www.pioneermuseum.org. 406/522-8122. $5 adults, free for children 12 and under. Memorial Day to Labor Day Mon–Sat 10am–5pm; rest of year Tues–Sat 11am–4pm.

Museum of the Rockies ★★ This first-class museum explains the history, geology, wildlife, and people of the Rocky Mountains all the way back to the Big Bang. The centerpiece of the museum is the world-class Siebel Dinosaur Complex, which is one of the premier paleontology attractions in the world and home to more T. rex specimens than any other facility (13). The Hall of Horns and Teeth is centered on a life-size torosaurus model, next to the actual 9-foot skull (the biggest land-animal noggin ever unearthed) that served as a blueprint; other displays offer an in-depth look into dinosaur biology, ecology, and theoretical behavior. The Hallway of Growth and Behavior provides a look beyond the bones, and the Mesozoic Media Center allows visitors to get a closer look at dig sites via interactive touch screens. The Hall of Giants is populated with lifelike dinosaur models, including a diorama of velociraptor-like deinonychs taking down a much larger sauropod. Visitors can also watch fossil preparers as they clean recently discovered bones.

But that’s not all: Young ones can learn about nature and science at the Yellowstone-themed Children’s Discovery Center. The Taylor Planetarium is a state-of-the-art, 40-foot domed multimedia theater, with a computer graphics simulator that provides the illusion of flying through space in three dimensions. There is a collection of regional historical artifacts and traveling exhibits. Outside, the Living History Farm is an early-20th-century homestead with costumed interpreters. There’s a gift shop on-site, but no dining.

600 W. Kagy Blvd. (on the Montana State University campus). www.museumoftherockies.org. 406/994-2251. Admission $13 adults, $12 seniors, $9 children 5–17, free for children 4 and under; admission good for 2 days. Planetarium shows included in admission. Mid-June to early Sept daily 8am–8pm; mid-Sept to early June Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 12:30–5pm. Living History Farm mid-June to early Sept daily 9:30am–5pm. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day.

Shopping

Main Street offers an Old West feel and New West selection, starting at about 7th Avenue and running out to I-90. Among our favorite stops here are Vargo’s Jazz City and Books, 6 W. Main St. ( 406/587-5383), which sells an eclectic mass of new, used, and out-of-print books, CDs, and LPs (or the elusive, vanishing vinyl); Schnee’s Powder Horn Outfitters, 35 E. Main St. ( 406/587-7373), which sells high-end Western wear and all sorts of outdoor gear; the Montana Gift Corral, 237 E. Main St. ( 406/585-8625), which offers a wide selection of made-in-Montana gifts, in case you need a moose clock to take home; Thomas Nygard Gallery, 135 E. Main St. ( 406/586-3636), which specializes in pre-1950 artwork from the Northern Plains; the Country Bookshelf, 28 W. Main St. ( 406/587-0166), a terrific bookstore; and Barkenhowell’s, 777 E. Main St. ( 406/586-6160), a chic dog boutique. The Gallatin Valley Mall, 2825 W. Main St. ( 406/586-4565), has department and specialty stores, art galleries, and a food court. The MSU Bookstore at the Strand Union on the campus of Montana State University ( 406/994-2811) is the place to go for any sort of Bobcats clothing or gear.

Where to Stay

Bozeman has a full complement of chain motels, most just off I-90. In addition to the places listed below, you can stay at the Best Western GranTree Inn, 1325 N. 7th Ave. (www.grantreeinn.com; 800/624-5865 or 406/587-5261); the Fairfield Inn, 828 Wheat Dr. ( 406/587-2222); and the Hampton Inn, 75 Baxter Lane ( 406/522-8000). The above are all at I-90 exit 306 and have summer rates for two in the $100-to-$150 range. Newer are the lodgelike C’mon Inn, 6139 E. Valley Center Rd. ( 866/782-2717 or 406/587-3555), and the Hilton Garden Inn, 2023 Commerce Way ( 877/782-9444 or 406/582-9900), south of I-90, exit 305, both with double rates in the range of $120 to $180 in peak summer season. The lodge-inspired accommodations feature thoughtful amenities such as in-room exercise kits and a lobby pantry. I also like the independent Bozeman’s Western Heritage Inn, within walking distance of downtown, 1200 E. Main St. (www.westernheritageinn.com; 800/877-1094 or 406/586-8534), with double rates of $84 to $140 in summer. Another option is the cozy private 1920s Cooper Park Cottage, tucked away in a residential neighborhood at 401 S. 5th Ave. ( 406/586-2012), which rents for $100 to $125 double.

Fox Hollow Bed and Breakfast ★ Situated at the end of a road with great views of the Bridger Mountains, Fox Hollow gives you good access to town, as well as the scenery that earned Montana the nickname “Big Sky Country.” Rooms are modern and comfortable, with floral and rustic themes. Breakfasts are superlative, including apple-cinnamon French toast, and the inn also offers a “bed and bistro” package that includes dinner for an additional $30 per person.

545 Mary Rd., Bozeman, MT 59718. www.bozeman-mt.com. 406/642-9545. 5 units. $139–$169 double; lower winter rates. AE, DISC, MC, V. In room: A/C, hair dryer, no phone, Wi-Fi (free).

Holiday Inn The largest hotel in town, the Holiday Inn opened in 1969 when there was virtually nothing else in the immediate vicinity. It’s now surrounded by other chain motels and hotels, but it remains the best. The big, open lobby has a sort of a lodge feel, with a fireplace, contemporary artwork, and two complimentary high-speed Internet terminals in a small business center, and there’s a big TV in the adjacent bar that’s usually surrounded by a crowd watching a ballgame. The rooms are well kept and nicely furnished, and a few of them have terrific mountain views.

5 Baxter Lane, Bozeman, MT 59715. www.hibozeman.com. 800/366-5101 or 406/587-4561. Fax 406/587-4413. 179 units, including 1 suite. $99–$179 double; $129–$229 suite. Lower rates fall and winter. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. From I-90, take exit 306. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge/casino; exercise room; high-speed Internet (free); indoor Jacuzzi; indoor pool. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Lehrkind Mansion Bed & Breakfast ★★★ German-born brewer Julius Lehrkind shunned the tonier neighborhoods on Bozeman’s south side and built a stately Queen Anne mansion right next door to his north-side brick brewery in 1897. A century later, former national park rangers Jon Gerster, Jr., and Chris Nixon turned “the house that beer built” into a bed-and-breakfast, with the original woodwork, plumbing, and floor plan intact. Surrounded by vestiges of the neighborhood’s beery past, the ornate abode still sticks out in the quasi-industrial but up-and-coming Historic Bozeman Brewery District, looking like something out of a fairy tale inside and out. Everything, from the rare 1897 Regina music box in the parlor, to the many original fixtures in the bathrooms, to the amazingly preserved original carpet in the Audubon Suite, is from Lehrkind’s day. A relocated and restored abandoned Victorian farmhouse is also on-site as a five-bedroom counterpart to the four-bedroom mansion.

719 N. Wallace Ave., Bozeman, MT 59715. www.bozemanbedandbreakfast.com. 800/992-6932 or 406/585-6932. 9 units. $159–$189 double; $189–$229 suite; lower rates in winter. Rates include full breakfast. DISC, MC, V. In room: Hair dryer, no phone, Wi-Fi (free).

Camping

The Bozeman KOA ( 800/562-6036 or 406/587-3030) is the area’s largest campground, with sites for 100 RVs and 50 tents. It is adjacent to a natural hot-springs pool (which charges a separate fee), laundry, store, and a variety of other amenities. It is located 7 miles south of Belgrade on U.S. 191, with sites from $30 to $50 and basic cabins for $63 to $73 double. There are also numerous places to camp in the Gallatin National Forest; contact the Bozeman Ranger District, 3710 Fallon St., Ste. C, Bozeman, MT 59718 (www.fs.usda.gov/gallatin; 406/522-2520), for details.

Where to Eat

Beyond the restaurants that follow, I’m a firm believer in the restorative powers of the breakfast burritos at Soby’s, in the Bozeman Hotel at 321 E. Main St. ( 406/587-8857), a favorite student haunt for breakfast and lunch. For a burger (or barbecue) and a beer on an outdoor deck, you can’t beat the Garage, 451 E. Main St. ( 406/585-8558). In the winter, the place compensates for the cold weather with the Soup Shack, serving seven hot soups and an array of toppings, from a space that houses the ice-cream-oriented Scoop Shack in summer. La Tinga, 12 E. Main St. (no phone), serves up authentic Mexican burritos, tacos, and tostadas using homemade tortillas and salsa (cash only).

The Community Food Co-op, 909 W. Main St. (www.bozo.coop; 406/587-4039), is a locally beloved market, with a great deli, salad bar, and seating area upstairs. There is also a new downtown location at 44 E. Main St. ( 406/922-2667), with a more limited grocery selection, a salad bar, and cold and hot meals to take out or eat in.

Blackbird ★★ ITALIAN Opened in 2009, the casual, hip, and healthy Blackbird has earned a fast local following with its constantly changing menu highlighted by pasta and wood-fired pizzas with toppings like smoked prosciutto and crimini mushrooms. Even the chopped green salad has flair, with fresh ricotta, walnuts, citrus, and herbs. The fare is prepared in a central open kitchen fronted by a stainless-steel bar. The dimly lit space features contemporary art and design and live (but not overbearing) music.

145 E. Main St. www.blackbirdkitchen.com. 406/586-0010. Reservations accepted for parties of 6 or more only. Main courses $11–$30. DISC, MC, V. Tues–Thurs 5:30–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10pm.

The Emerson Grill ★★ ITALIAN Intimate and artsy, this dinky eatery in the Emerson Center for Arts and Culture has emerged as a local favorite, and it’s an equally good bet for a romantic dinner. The kitchen uses locally produced organic ingredients more often than not, creating terrific Italian fare: The menu includes flatbread pizze, spaghetti and meatballs, and risotto, as well as grilled bison and Idaho trout. Only beer and wine are available, but the selection is excellent. Next door is the Grill’s sister wine bar, the Emerson Grill North.

207 W. Olive St., in the Emerson Center for Arts and Culture. www.emersongrill.com. 406/586-5247. Reservations recommended. Main courses $15–$33. AE, MC, V. Mon–Wed 5–9pm; Thurs–Sat 5–10pm. Emerson Grill North: Thurs–Sat 5–9pm.

Main Street Overeasy AMERICAN Chef Erik Carr opened this restaurant in 1998, and it has been a local favorite ever since, winning “Bozeman’s Best Breakfast” from local weeklies on a near-annual basis The place packs ’em in for breakfast with such dishes as biscuits and gravy, chicken-fried steak, and cinnamon bread pudding with warm vanilla sauce. Or have the “Bobcat Benedict,” which is two fried eggs atop chicken-fried steak and biscuits and gravy. Lunches consist of gourmet sandwiches and salads.

9 E. Main St. 406/587-3205. Breakfast $5–$10; lunch $6–$10. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7am–2pm.

The Mint ★★ AMERICAN Few places meld upscale and cowboy as well as the historic Mint in downtown Belgrade, about 8 miles west of Bozeman. A local landmark since 1904, the interior is lined with black-and-white photos of cowboys, and a stuffed Hereford head guards the entrance, but the blond wood and sleek details make it a tad more formal than your typical Montana roadhouse. The superlative specialties will rouse the carnivore in most anybody: buffalo tenderloin, a 14-ounce New York strip, and half a cast-iron-roasted chicken. There are also daily specials, including a pasta dish and a seafood plate, and a great bar menu running the gastronomic gamut from burgers to crab cakes. The wine list is one of the best within a 100-mile radius.

27 E. Main St., Belgrade. www.themintmt.com. 406/388-1100. Reservations recommended. Dinner $9–$47. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 4–10pm. Closed Sun in winter. Bar open later.

Montana Ale Works ★ AMERICAN A casual, social place to see and be seen, Montana Ale Works is a great place to unwind over hearty portions and cold libations or catch a ballgame. I like the Montana Meatloaf, a spicy slab of buffalo, beef, and pork, but other favorites include fish tacos, barbecued ribs, and plenty of steaks. After a long period of dormancy, the former railroad warehouse became a restaurant in 2000. The place hangs on to a bit of its past in the form of industrial chic decor, with brick walls and an exposed ceiling framing a vast room with plenty of nooks and crannies to find a seat. There are also pool tables, but no cigarette smoke. In the center of it all is a full bar with plenty of seating and, of course, plenty of ale: Of the 40 beers on tap, about half are brewed in Montana.

611 E. Main St. www.montanaaleworks.com. 406/587-7700. Reservations accepted. Main courses $9–$30. AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 4–10pm; Fri–Sat 4–11pm. Bar open 1 hr. later.

Naked Noodle NOODLES If you like to sample from several cuisines, or everybody in your group wants something different, this is the perfect choice. At this casual eatery in a brick-and-funky-art-clad space just off Main Street, you can get noodles of all kinds, from soba noodles in Thai green chile curry, to Italian fettuccine Alfredo, to good old American mac and cheese, with four varieties of the latter. The signature dish is the Gaucho: cavatappi pasta topped with chipotle cream sauce, black beans, and tortilla chips. Also on the menu are a number of filling salads with the same international variety, as well as gluten-free and kids’ options.

27 S. Willson Ave. www.nakednoodle.com. 406/505-4501. Most items $6–$14. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–9pm; Sun 11–8pm.

Nova Cafe ★ AMERICAN A colorful diner with blue tabletops, vintage concert posters, and a health-oriented menu, the Nova is a great breakfast spot. The menu includes dozens of scrambles, omelets, Benedict variations (like Eggs Argyle with salmon standing in for the bacon), and other egg dishes, as well as turkey hash, pancakes, sausages du jour, and no less than six daily specials. Breakfast is served whenever the place is open; lunchtime also brings a selection of creative salads and sandwiches. There’s a kids’ menu; vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options; and espresso and smoothies.

312 E. Main St. www.thenovacafe.com. 406/587-3973. Reservations accepted for parties of 6 or more only. Main courses $6–$12 breakfast and lunch. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7am–2pm.

Over the Tapas ★ TAPAS/MEDITERRANEAN A favorite since opening in 2007, the basic room of black tables and booths is one of the few midprice options downtown, and the long lines on weekend nights reflect that. The small plates are excellent, ranging from meatless cheese and olive samplers to grilled lamb chops. Most of the items are Spanish standards, like paella and spinach croquettes. Beer and wine (mostly Spanish and South American) are available, but liquor is not.

19 S. Willson Ave. www.bozemantapas.com. 406/556-8282. Most tapas $3–$14 lunch and dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–9:30pm.

Plonk Wine ★★★ CONTEMPORARY/WINE BAR A dimly lit hot spot that feels more San Francisco than Bozeman, Plonk (Euro-slang for ordinary table wine) took over the space that housed the Stockman’s Bar from 1921 to 1971 and molded it into an eatery that oozes with a hip, urban atmosphere. The menus (there are six in all) change on a regular basis, but you can count on Bozeman’s best selection of wine, cheese, and decadent desserts. The dinner menu focuses on local sustainably raised meat; standbys include steaks and bison, as well as an excellent chicken and pear salad. Across from the well-stocked shelves of vino, there is a full bar, above which hangs a restored brand-laden mural that dates from Plonk’s Stockman’s Bar era. There is a full bar with house-infused liquors; DJs entertain the crowd on Friday nights.

29 E. Main St. www.plonkwine.com. 406/587-2170. Reservations accepted for parties of 6 or more only. Main courses $8–$10 lunch; $15–$25 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–10:30pm (from 4pm Sun and Mon in winter). Bar open later (usually until 2am).

Sola Café ★ NEW AMERICAN This funky, labyrinthine restaurant near the Montana State University campus serves some of the best and healthiest food in town. Breakfast and lunch bring sandwiches (with contents ranging from eggs to peanut butter to steak); there are also entree salads and grass-fed beef burgers. Dinner features entrees like Vietnamese banh mi pork, Moroccan curry, and stuffed portobello mushrooms. There is beer and wine, an espresso bar, and ready-to-go takeout.

290 W. Kagy Blvd. www.solacafe.com. 406/922-7652. Main courses $5–$12 breakfast and lunch, $7–$14 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 6am–9pm; Sun 6am–8pm.

Bozeman After Dark

Bozeman is a college town, so there are lots of places to get a casual drink accompanied by loud music. Popular watering holes include the Irish-themed Pub 317, 321 E. Main St. ( 406/582-8898); the vintage Crystal Bar, 123 E. Main St. ( 406/587-2888); and the Zebra, 321 E. Main St., in the old Bozeman Hotel ( 406/585-8851), ground zero for the local live music scene. Another fun option (with a limit of 48 oz. per customer per day) is the Bozeman Brewing Company’s bustling taproom, 504 N. Broadway (www.bozemanbrewing.com; 406/585-9142). It’s open Monday through Saturday from 4 to 8pm, pouring the brewery’s popular Bozone-brand beers.

Bozeman is also home to coffee shops galore, including the Leaf and Bean, 35 W. Main St. ( 406/587-1580); HomePage Internet Cafe, 242 E. Main St. ( 406/582-9388); Wild Joe’s Coffee, 18 W. Main St. ( 406/586-1212); and, near the MSU campus, Daily Coffee Bar & Bakery, 1013 W. College St. ( 406/585-8612). Lindley Perk ( 406/582-9800) is a coffee shop in the beloved new library at 626 E. Main St.

Montana Shakespeare in the Parks (www.montana.edu/shakespeare; 406/994-3901) is a professional touring company that was formed in 1973. Based in Bozeman, the troupe of 10 to 12 actors produces more than 60 performances during the summer at communities throughout Montana, Wyoming, and Idaho—often in a different town each day. Some summer weekends find them at their Bozeman stage—located on the MSU campus on 11th Avenue near the corner of Grant Street—for “Shakespeare Under the Stars.” Parking is available just north of the MSU field house. Call for the schedule. Performances are always free.

For edgy and experimental fare, one-act-play festivals, and the stylings of a local comedy troupe, head to the Equinox Theatre, 2304 N. 7th Ave. (www.equinoxtheatre.com; 406/587-0737).

The Madison River Valley: Three Forks & Ennis ★★

Ennis: 54 miles SW of Bozeman; 71 miles N of West Yellowstone

The Madison Valley is an almost mythical place surrounded by spectacular mountain scenery where anglers from all over gather to fish. The main attraction is the Madison River, which flows through the valley at the base of the Madison Range, a stretch of peaks that runs toward Yellowstone Park.

Besides the phenomenal fishing, the Madison Valley has tourist-worthy historical sites. The Missouri Headwaters State Park is at the confluence of the Jefferson, Madison, and Gallatin rivers, where Lewis and Clark paused to take shelter; Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park, with its spectacular underground peaks, is just up the road; and Madison Buffalo Jump State Park is nearby.

Essentials

Getting There The Bozeman airport, Gallatin Field (discussed earlier in this chapter), is the closest airport to the valley.

Greyhound stops in Three Forks at 2 Main St. ( 406/285-6870).

Three Forks is located on I-90, 30 miles from Bozeman, 170 miles from Billings, and 173 miles from Missoula. Three Forks is 66 miles from the capital, Helena. Ennis is 45 miles south of Three Forks on U.S. 287.

Visitor Information Contact the Three Forks Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 1103, Three Forks, MT 59752 (www.threeforksmontana.com; 406/285-4753), or the Ennis Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 291, Ennis, MT 59729 (www.ennischamber.com; 406/682-4388). Yellowstone Country (www.yellowstonecountry.net; 800/736-5276) is the Travel Montana tourism office for the region.

Getting Around If you’re flying into Bozeman, pick up a car at the airport (see “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter, for more information). For statewide road reports, call 800/226-7623 or 511 on your mobile phone.

Getting Outside

There is plenty of fishing water along the road from Three Forks to Quake and Hebgen lakes along U.S. 287. The first fishing access is Cobblestone, just a few miles south of Three Forks on the right side of U.S. 287. If you plan to base yourself in Ennis, the Valley Garden, Ennis Bridge, Burnt Tree, and Varney Bridge fishing accesses are within minutes of town along U.S. 287. Between Ennis and Quake Lake, the accesses begin popping up frequently. McAtee Bridge, Wolf Creek, West Fork, and Reynolds Pass are all accessible from the roadside. Hebgen Lake, just south of the dam, and Quake Lake are also great fishing spots.

On Ennis’s Main Street, it seems that every second door houses a fly-fishing outfitter. The Madison River Fishing Company, 109 Main St. (www.mrfc.com; 800/227-7127 or 406/682-4293), has a good stock of fishing supplies and a guide service. Guided trips, for one or two people, cost $325 for a half-day and $425 for a full day; full-day trips include lunch. They also offer a free brochure that contains a map of fishing spots and various facilities along the way. Other guide services, with similar rates, include Clark’s Guide Service ( 406/682-7474); Howard Outfitters ( 406/682-4834); and the Tackle Shop Outfitters, 127 Main St. (www.thetackleshop.com; 800/808-2832 or 406/682-4263).

In Ennis proper, kids will love Lions Club Park, on the banks of the Madison River on the east side of town, featuring trails, a playground, and a stocked fishing pond with some monster trout that’s free and open to kids under 13 only.

Seeing the Sights

Lewis & Clark Caverns State Park ★ These lovely limestone caverns are named for the famous explorers, but there is no evidence that their party ever saw or visited them. Discovered in the late 19th century, these caverns are a succession of vaulted chambers and passageways, thickly decorated with stalactites and stalagmites, as well as other underground formations such as massive, gleaming organ pipes; silky, delicate soda straws; intricate filigrees; and weirdly hung draperies. Plan at least 2 hours for the 2-mile guided tour through the caverns; aboveground, there are hiking trails, several picnic areas, and a large campground (see “Camping,” below). A Christmas candlelight tour is held on two weekends in December. Reservations should be made in early December for one of the 200 or so spots available. There is a campground, as well as three cabins on the premises with electric heat; rates are $55 for nonresidents in summer.

Located 19 miles west of Three Forks (midway btw. Butte and Bozeman) on Mont. 2. www.fwp.mt.gov. 406/287-3541. Entrance fee $5 per car. Cave tours $10 adults, $5 children 6–11; no children 5 and under allowed. Park and campground open daily year-round. Guided cave tours May to mid-June and mid-Aug to Sept daily 9am–4:30pm; mid-June to mid-Aug daily 9am–6:30pm. Tours leave as required by demand. Closed Oct–Apr (except for Christmas event).

Madison Buffalo Jump State Park This is one of a few buffalo jumps, or pishkun, that have been excavated. Prior to the advent of the horse, the Northern Shoshone and the Bannock drove the bison off this steep cliff to their death on the rocks below. Long rows of rocks funneled the animals to the cliff. There is a well-worn trail up to the base of the cliff, making for a short but steep hike.

Located 23 miles west of Bozeman, off I-90 exit 283. www.fwp.mt.gov. 406/994-4042. Entrance $5 per car. Daily 24 hr. From the Logan exit off I-90, 7 miles south on Buffalo Jump Rd.

Missouri Headwaters State Park ★★ You can easily spend an hour just exploring the interpretive signage at this historic state park. Begin by following the Missouri River out from Three Forks. The headwaters themselves are no great shakes—just another river—but the sunsets from the bank of the river are breathtaking. From the headwaters, drive back toward Three Forks where, on the opposite side of the road, you’ll see a parking area with interpretive markers. Allow plenty of time to read about Lewis and Clark and Sacajawea, the young Shoshone guide, as well as early American Indians, trappers, traders, and settlers. Camping and RV sites are available, along with access to hiking, boating, and fishing.

Located 4 miles northeast of Three Forks. www.fwp.mt.gov. 406/994-4042. Entrance $5 per car. Daily 24 hr. Drive east on C.R. 205, then north on C.R. 286; follow signs.

National Fish Hatchery The Ennis National Fish Hatchery, constructed in 1931, is probably the only place in America where you can observe two genetic mutants of ordinary rainbow trout: albino and blue. (These fish are not released into the wild trout population.) Some of the trout in the hatchery ponds weigh more than 20 pounds and are more than 5 years old. The hatchery cultivates seven different strains of rainbow trout. You can learn about the operation in the small exhibit area and tour the facility. When some of those huge adults are past their use as brood stock, they too are released into lakes and streams to test fishermen.

180 Fish Hatchery Rd., Ennis. www.fws.gov/ennis. 406/682-4847. Free admission. Daily 7:30am–5pm. The hatchery is 12 miles southwest of Ennis. Take U.S. 287 south from town to R.R. 249 and go west to Call Rd. Turn left (south), then left (east) on Fish Hatchery Rd. after 1⁄2 mile.

Norris Hot Springs ★ You’ll be hard-pressed to find a more scenic spot for a soak, or a better soaking pool with live music, or a better place to work away the aches and pains induced by outdoor recreation than Norris Hot Springs, about a 45-minute drive west of Bozeman. The year-round hot springs–fed pool, which is lined with wood, sits adjacent to an eatery that grows a good portion of what it serves and a geodesic dome that provides musicians with shelter. Suit and towel rentals are available ($1 each).

Mont. 84, Norris, 16 miles north of Ennis and 34 miles west of Bozeman. www.norrishotsprings.com. 406/685-3303. Admission $5 adults, $3 kids under 12. Year-round Wed–Fri 4–10pm; Sat–Sun noon–10pm.

Quake Lake Just before midnight on August 17, 1959, a massive earthquake measuring 7.5 on the Richter scale jolted Yellowstone and the Madison River canyon, sending large chunks of mountain into the river. A campsite just below the mountain was covered with rubble, and 19 people were buried alive. The rubble that collapsed into the river created a dam and the aptly named Quake Lake. The ghostly fingers of trees that died when they were swamped still poke skyward from the lake. The visitor center on the north side of the highway offers exhibits, a video every half-hour, and an observation area from which you can see the massive slides. The area around Yellowstone and Quake Lake is still very seismically active, and southwest Montana is second only to California in terms of earthquake frequency. The visitor center has a great deal of information about the area’s seismic activity and hypotheses of how it got this way.

Off U.S. 287, 27 miles northwest of West Yellowstone and 43 miles south of Ennis. 406/682-7620 or 823-6961. Visitor center $3 per car; $1 per person on motorcycle or bicycle. Memorial Day to Labor Day daily 8:30am–6pm. Note: The visitor center will close in early July 2012 for a renovation and reopen Memorial Day 2013.

Where to Stay

In addition to the properties discussed below, the Rainbow Valley Motel, 1 mile south of Ennis on U.S. 287 (P.O. Box 26), Ennis, MT 59729 (www.rainbowvalley.com; 800/452-8254 or 406/682-4264), offers large, well-maintained cabin-style rooms, with rates for two people of $88 to $125. There are also a couple of large cabin homes for $165 to $185 a night. In town, I like the Riverside Motel, 346 E. Main St. (www.riversidemotel-outfitters.com; 406/682-4240), with duplex cabin units as well as two-bedroom units and kitchens, with rates of $80 to $140.

El Western Cabins & Lodges ★★ It’s a little hard to categorize this place, which has some inexpensive log duplex-style cabins, as well as large, expensive two- and three-bedroom lodges and uniformly well-maintained rooms. The original portion, built in 1948, is done with knotty-pine interiors and built-in wooden cabinets. The newest lodge is the Eagle’s Loft, a three-bedroom, three-bathroom, two-story cabin with a vaulted ceiling and rock fireplace, plus a whirlpool tub and washer and dryer. Every unit enjoys spectacular views of the Madison Range, including Fan Mountain and the Spanish Peaks. You can’t go wrong here, and the overnight cabins are as affordable as anything in the valley. There’s no restaurant or lounge associated with the property, but a new conference center with a large, inviting deck and picture windows serves both business and family groups.

4787 U.S. 287 N., P.O. Box 487, Ennis, MT 59729. www.elwestern.com. 800/831-2773 or 406/682-4217. Fax 406/682-5207. 29 units. $80–$105 double; $120–$165 creek-side kitchen cabin; $180–$285 deluxe mountainside kitchen cabin; $275–$475 lodge. Lower rates fall to spring. AE, DISC, MC, V. From the town of Ennis, drive south 1 mile on U.S. 287. Closed mid-Dec to May except lodges. In room: TV, hair dryer, kitchen, Wi-Fi (free).

Sacajawea Hotel ★★ Originally opened in 1910 and extensively renovated a century later, the Sacajawea Hotel is a gleaming hotel with unexpectedly luxurious trappings. Rooms are decorated with a sleek take on classic styles, and the picture-perfect porch is lined with comfortable chairs. Rooms have one full-size bed or a king or queen; a few have two full beds or queens. There is a restaurant, Pompey’s Grill, a woodsy bar, and the Madison House Spa on-site.

5 N. Main St. (P.O. Box 648), Three Forks, MT 59752. www.sacajaweahotel.com. 406/285-6515. Fax 406/285-4210. 29 units. $109–$199 double; $219 suite; lower rates fall to spring. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($25 per night). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; spa. In room: A/C, TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Wade Lake Cabins This secluded cabin resort, which consists of five cabins, is located in a picture-perfect forested canyon on Wade Lake. The cabins are basic but tidy, with only a refrigerator, running water, heat, a gas stove, and a gas barbecue grill. A shared modern bathhouse is out back. Bring food to cook because the nearest restaurant is 11 miles back up the road. The area is very beautiful, though—Wade has been designated a Montana Wildlife Viewing Site. A hiking and mountain-biking mecca in summer and a cross-country skiing destination in winter (guests ski in 6 miles, and a snowmobile takes their luggage), the area is rich in wildlife, with eagles and osprey nesting on the lake, and moose, elk, bear, and other locals dropping in occasionally. It also helps you remember what real quiet and real darkness are like.

P.O. Box 107, Cameron, MT 59720. www.wadelake.com. 406/682-7560. 5 cabins. Summer $85–$110 double; winter $125 double, 3-night minimum. No credit cards. Drive 40 miles south of Ennis to the Wade Lake turnoff, marked by a sign. Turn west on the bumpy, gravel Wade Lake Rd. and follow the signs about 6 miles to Wade Lake. Closed fall and spring. Amenities: Watersports rentals. In room: Kitchen, no phone, Wi-Fi (free, most rooms).

Camping

Lewis & Clark Caverns State Park (see “Seeing the Sights,” above; 406/287-3541) has 40 campsites ($20–$23 for nonresidents), showers, a dump station, and fishing access on a river, plus hiking trails and interpretive programs. Missouri Headwaters State Park (see “Seeing the Sights,” above; 406/994-4042) has a year-round campground ($20–$23) with 20 sites and basic cabins ($35) scattered along the river, plus numerous hiking trails and plenty of fishing access. Maximum trailer length is 25 feet; there’s a boat ramp and dump station. Those wanting RV hookups and the usual commercial campground amenities should head to Camp Three Forks, on U.S. 287, 1 mile south of I-90 exit 274 (www.campthreeforks.com; 406/285-3611), which has a pastoral setting as well as a clean bathhouse, swimming pool, rec room, and playground. It’s open May through September, with sites for both tents and RVs at rates of $20 to $36, and basic cabins for $45 to $50. In Ennis, the Riverside Motel, 346 Main St. (www.riversidemotel-outfitters.com; 406/682-4240), has RV spots for $28; tents are not permitted

Where to Eat

Near Three Forks

Wheat Montana Bakery and Deli, I-90 and U.S. 287 ( 406/285-3614), is a popular breakfast and lunch spot where Montana-grown wheat is turned into bread, and just the smell of bread baking makes it worth the stop. In the Ennis Pharmacy, at 124 Main St., Yesterday’s Restaurant and Soda Fountain ( 406/682-4246) serves hearty American breakfasts and lunch every day of the week.

Willow Creek Café and Saloon ★ AMERICAN This place is a find, if you can find it—it’s located 7 miles southwest of Three Forks on the Old Yellowstone Trail. It’s worth the search, though, because Willow Creek is the best restaurant in the area (don’t let the bullet holes in the ceiling scare you off). It began as the Babcock Saloon around 1916, and continues as a remarkable reflection of what’s best in Montana: hearty meals and friendly people. The ever-popular baby back pork ribs draw repeat customers from around the country, but the local cowboys know that the beef is tops here, so the hand-pounded chicken-fried sirloin steak is their recommendation. The pasta dishes are very good, and the homemade soups really taste homemade. The weekend-only lunches are also recommended.

21 Main St., Willow Creek. 406/285-3698. Dinner reservations recommended in summer. Lunch $4–$10; dinner $10–$30. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Fri 4–10pm; Sat–Sun 11am–10pm. Shorter hours in winter.

Ennis

Continental Divide ★★ NEW AMERICAN The effortlessly elegant Continental Divide has been the culinary pacesetter in Ennis since it opened in 1982. Featuring creative continental fare with an emphasis on game, steaks, and seafood, chef Eric Trapp changes the menu on a seasonal basis but often includes specialties like lobster cannellini, filet mignon, and slow-roasted duck. The wine list is excellent, but liquor is not served.

47 Geyser St. 406/682-7600. Main courses $18–$40 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Summer daily 5–9:30pm (limited hours early and late season); closed in winter.

Gravel Bar ★ AMERICAN/MEXICAN This horseshoe-lined, thoroughly Western bar and grill has two restaurants in summer: Banditos (formerly a Virginia City mainstay) serves Mexican, and the namesake Gravel Bar serves sandwiches of all kinds, including pulled pork, pastrami, and kitchen. In winter, Banditos closes down, but the bar serves food and drink year-round. There is a dining room adjacent to the copper-topped bar, and a social atmosphere.

305 E. Main St. 406/682-5553. Main courses $8–$13 lunch and dinner. DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–9pm. Bar open later.

The Gallatin Valley ★★

Big Sky: 53 miles S of Bozeman; 48 miles N of West Yellowstone

According to legend, the Sioux and Nez Perce once engaged in a bloody battle in the lower Gallatin Valley. On the third day of the fighting, the sun was blotted out and a booming voice told the warriors to forget old wrongs and stop fighting because they were in the Valley of Peace and Flowers.

These days, the sun mostly shines around here, and the only booming voices heard are those calling you for your tee time or your dinner reservation. The transition of Big Sky from peace and flowers to year-round resort was not entirely without dissension, however. When legendary NBC newsman Chet Huntley—a Montana native—proposed the Big Sky ski resort, there was an outcry from the budding environmental movement. But Huntley’s dream was realized in 1973, and the resort has blossomed into a world-class facility, with a second ski area—Moonlight Basin—opening in 2003.

The valley is a narrow, shining slice of Montana edged by the Absaroka and Gallatin ranges to the east and the Madison Range on the west. The Big Sky Resort covers two of the western peaks—Lone Mountain, elevation 11,186 feet, and Andesite Mountain, 8,800 feet. Moonlight Basin’s runs are also on Lone Mountain and connect with those of Big Sky.

There are several distinct “villages” in Big Sky. The canyon area along U.S. 191 has a haphazard collection of motels, taverns, restaurants, gas stations, and whatnot. The Meadow Village, 2 miles west of the highway, includes a community of condos, a few overnight lodging places, and the golf course. The main base area for the ski resort is at the Mountain Village, 8 miles west of the highway, with condos, restaurants, and hotels. The Moonlight Basin development is just above Mountain Village.

The valley’s summers bring excellent fly-fishing, horseback riding, and white-water rafting. This beautiful scenery may seem familiar—the Gallatin River was the setting for the film A River Runs Through It.

Essentials

Getting There Big Sky is about 53 miles south of Bozeman’s Gallatin Field Airport on U.S. 191. From the airport, you can ride to the ski area with Karst Stage (www.karststage.com; 800/845-2778 or 406/556-3500), a company that has a transportation fleet of sturdy four-wheel-drive vehicles. The ride is about $80 round-trip per adult and $40 per child 3 to 12 in winter. Or you can take a van or town car provided by Shuttle to Big Sky (www.bigskytaxi.com; 406/995-4895) for about $150 one-way.

Getting Around A car gives you the greatest flexibility in getting around this area. For service between condominiums, hotels, restaurants, and activities within the ski area, take Big Sky’s free local shuttle-bus system, which operates daily during the ski season.

Getting Outside

Biking

Big Sky Resort rents mountain bikes and offers bike rental/lift ticket combos. Call 406/995-5840 for details.

Cross-Country Skiing

Big Sky Resort (see below) offers some groomed trails for cross-country skiing. But for the real deal, go to Lone Mountain Ranch ★★★ (P.O. Box 160069, Big Sky, MT 59716; www.lonemountain.com; 800/514-4644 or 406/995-4644), which has 50 miles of cross-country trails over terrain that will challenge every level of skier. Near the ranch headquarters, in the meadows, lies some flat terrain that beginners might appreciate. There’s also a steeper portion to practice your Telemark technique and 18 miles of snowshoe trails. Intermediate trails with more hills make up about 60% of the area, and expert trails provide plenty of challenging downhill runs. Lessons, guided tours, and ski and snowshoe rentals are also available; there is also a tasty trailside buffet. Full-day trail passes cost $18 for adults, $9 for seniors 60 to 69, and free for kids 12 and under and seniors 70 and over. The entrance to Lone Mountain Ranch is off Lone Mountain Trail (the main road to the Big Sky Resort), about 4 miles west of its intersection with U.S. 191 and 2 miles east of the Meadow Village.

Downhill Skiing

In 2005, Big Sky and Moonlight Basin connected their trail systems, making for a combined 5,532 acres of terrain—the largest ski area in the country. Skiers and snowboarders can buy the “Biggest Skiing in America” ticket for a day of unlimited access to both resorts’ runs for $98 adults, $88 seniors 70 and over and college students, and $78 for juniors 11 to 17 (free for kids 10 and under).

Big Sky Resort ★★ Tennis, golf, and rock climbing are all very nice, but the real reason to come to Big Sky is to ski. It’s a huge hill, with more than 3,832 acres of terrain and 85 miles of trails. You can ski for nearly a vertical mile from the top of the tram, at 11,166 feet elevation, to the bottom of the Lone Moose lift, at 6,800 feet, the third-longest vertical drop of any U.S. resort. There is terrain here for everybody, with 60% for advanced and expert skiers, 26% for intermediate, and 14% beginner. Big Sky gets 400 inches of snowfall, offering plenty of powder days. There’s an ambitious children’s program, offering lessons for kids as young as 3, and day care for kids who don’t want to ski. Full ski-rental packages are available. New in the winter is a zipline operated by the ski school.

P.O. Box 160001, Big Sky, MT 59716. www.bigskyresort.com. 800/548-4486 or 406/995-5000; 406/995-5900 for snow conditions; 406/995-5743 for ski school. Peak-season lift ticket $84 adults, $74 seniors (70 and over), $64 college students with ID and juniors 11–17, and free for children 10 and under. Late Nov to mid-Apr daily 9am–4pm.

Moonlight Basin ★ The first new destination ski resort in the U.S. in more than 20 years, Moonlight Basin opened in 2003 to rave reviews from hard-core skiers, but its long, steep runs may be a bit challenging for neophytes. (This makes the “Biggest Skiing in America” ticket, above, a safe bet if you’re on the fence about your abilities.) Seven lifts (a high-speed six-passenger lift, three quads, one triple, one double, and a conveyor) serve 1,900 acres of terrain crisscrossed by about 90 trails—with a precipitous 4,150-foot drop. Most of the terrain is for the advanced skier, but there are some easier runs. Like Big Sky, the resort gets more than 400 inches of snow a year. It also features a spa, a snow sports school, kids’ programs, and other outdoor activities. But the folks behind this infant of a resort look like they’re just getting started. A private Jack Nicklaus–designed golf course opened in 2010.

P.O. Box 160040, Big Sky, MT 59716. www.moonlightbasin.com. 877/822-0430 or 406/993-6000; 406/993-6666 for snow conditions. Lift ticket $64 adults; $55 seniors (70 and over), college students with ID and juniors 11–17; free for children 10 and under. Late Nov to mid-Apr daily 9am–4pm.

Fishing

According to an Indian legend, folks who drink the water of the Gallatin River will return to the valley before they die, but of course, you should no longer drink untreated water out of even high mountain streams because of the possibility of giardia, an intestinal microbe that you don’t want traveling back home with you. We’re not sure if eating the fish that live in the water counts toward the legend, but it’s worth a try. Several guides offer trips for prices ranging from about $250 to $300 for a half-day for two, to $350 to $500 for a full day. For details, contact Lone Mountain Ranch ( 406/995-4644), Gallatin Riverguides (www.montanaflyfishing.com; 406/995-2290), or East Slope Anglers (www.eastslopeoutdoors.com; 406/995-4369).

Golf

Big Sky Golf Course, Meadow Village ( 406/995-5780), is a striking Arnold Palmer design that is fairly short, fairly open, and harder than it looks on the card. A few of the holes wander next to the West Fork of the Gallatin River, which runs through the property. Cost, which includes the cart fee, is about $40 to $70 for 18 holes, $30 to $50 for 9. Tee times can be reserved up to a week in advance.

Hiking

As you might expect in an area surrounded by three mountain ranges and two national forests, there is an abundance of hiking opportunities not far from Big Sky. An easy, 4-mile hike to Porcupine Creek is accessible nearby. Go south 2 3/4 miles on U.S. 191 from the intersection with the mountain village road. Turn left at the sign that announces Porcupine Creek, and go about a half-mile to the trail head. The first mile of the hike wanders along Porcupine Creek and then offers a choice of either a north or a south fork. The left (north) fork goes up into the foothills, offering a view of the creek below.

If you want more of a workout, try the Lava Lake trail, which begins about 13 miles north of the intersection of the mountain village road and U.S. 191 on the highway. Take the Lava Lake turn. The trail climbs steeply, without much relief, for 3 miles to an alpine lake in the shelter of three mountains.

The entrance to Yellowstone National Park is only about 40 miles south of Big Sky, and you can hike there for a lifetime and still not cover every trail.

Where to Stay

Big Sky Resort, P.O. Box 160001, Big Sky, MT 59716 (www.bigskyresort.com; 800/548-4486 or 406/995-5000), handles a wide variety of lodgings—from economy to full-fledged luxury, scattered among nearly 70 properties. The three-story Huntley Lodge, with 205 units, was the beginning of late NBC newsman Chet Huntley’s original vision for Big Sky. It offers rooms that can sleep up to four and several loft rooms that can accommodate six. The 97-unit Shoshone Condominium Hotel combines the living quarters of a condo with the amenities and services of a hotel; units sleep four to six. Weight-training centers, saunas, an outdoor pool, gift shops, and ski storage are included at both places. The Summit at Big Sky ★, with 213 luxury condominiums, offers European sophistication in a Western style. All three properties are slopeside and offer ski-in/ski-out convenience. Winter rates start around $180 a night double and top out at more than $1,000.

Moonlight Basin, P.O. Box 160040, Big Sky, MT 59716 (www.moonlightbasin.com; 877/822-0430 or 406/993-6000), offers properties ranging from condos to private residences, to luxurious penthouses. The Moonlight Lodge and Spa ★★ ( 800/845-4428) is a magnificent mountain lodge offering luxurious penthouse suites and secluded mid-mountain cabins, plus a sophisticated yet down-home restaurant, a relaxed-atmosphere bar, and a deli. There’s also a full-service spa with treatment rooms, complete fitness center, steam rooms, heated pool, and a cascading waterfall hot tub; a concierge ready and able to organize everything from fly-fishing trips, to backcountry skiing, to dog-sled adventures; and even an ice-skating rink just outside in winter. Winter rates start at about $225 a night double during the ski season and top out at well over $1,000.

In the Big Sky area, rates vary with the season and within the ski season. The highest rates are during Christmas vacation, the lowest in the spring and fall “shoulder” seasons.

Buck’s T-4 Lodge ★ Begun in 1946 as a hunting camp, Buck’s T-4 came to the valley before electricity did. It has grown quite a bit over the years. Buck’s still offers a woody, Western ambience on the highway about 10 miles away from the ski resort lodgings, with large, comfortable rooms in a wide variety of floor plans, all with nice views and tasteful decor. The current lodge is modern, including two hot tubs large enough for the kids to swim in, a game room, and all of the other amenities you want in ski- and Yellowstone-area accommodations. The best thing about the place, though, is the restaurant, reviewed below. Standard rooms, suites, and suites with kitchenettes are available. Ask about ski packages and vacations when making reservations.

P.O. Box 160279, U.S. 191, Big Sky, MT 59716. www.buckst4.com. 800/822-4484 or 406/995-4111. Fax 406/995-2191. 72 units, including 3 suites. $129–$159 double; $199–$309 suite. Lower rates spring and fall. Rates include hot buffet breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. About 1⁄2-mile south of the intersection of U.S. 191 and Lone Mountain Trail. Pets accepted ($10). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; 2 outdoor Jacuzzis. In room: TV, fridge, hair dryer, kitchenette (suite only), MP3 player docking stations, Wi-Fi (free).

Gallatin Gateway Inn ★ Located about midway between Bozeman and Big Sky, the Gallatin Gateway Inn is a model of historical elegance from the days of luxury railroad travel. The hotel opened in the summer of 1927, as visitors were beginning to come to Yellowstone in large numbers. With lavish appointments that include Polynesian mahogany woodwork, decoratively carved beams, and high arched windows, the Spanish-style building recalls pre–World War II elegance, and you almost expect to see Teddy Roosevelt and Buffalo Bill Cody relaxing side by side on the porch. The spacious guest rooms provide a tastefully understated balance to the regal lobby. They maintain the refined historical feel but have been updated with light colors, providing a more open and airy feeling than you usually find in hotels of this vintage. Serving dinner only, the Porter House restaurant’s seasonally changing menu includes regional specialties showcasing ingredients from local growers; combinations are imaginative and portions generous.

76405 Gallatin Rd. (U.S. 191), P.O. Box 376, Gallatin Gateway, MT 59730. www.gallatingatewayinn.com. 800/676-3522 or 406/763-4672. Fax 406/763-4777. 33 units, including 6 suites. $149 double; $199–$249 suite. Lower rates in winter. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. 28 miles north of Big Sky on U.S. 191. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; outdoor Jacuzzi; outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Lone Mountain Ranch ★★★ Before there was even a community of Big Sky, there was Lone Mountain Ranch. Started in 1915 as a working cattle ranch, Lone Mountain rapidly blossomed into a year-round destination as a guest ranch and cross-country ski area. In the summer, the ranch blends traditional guest-ranch activities—riding, hiking, fishing, and eating—with naturalist programs that will improve your understanding of Yellowstone. Lone Mountain prides itself on a family atmosphere and has separate activities for children, including animal tracking and camp-outs. In winter, the ranch is a cross-country skiing and snowshoeing destination, with 50 miles of trails, and offers a wide range of activities, from Yellowstone tours to sleigh rides to winter fly-fishing. Accommodations here vary from small, woodsy cabins to the large, modern Ridgetop Lodge, which can host an entire family reunion. Some of the cabins are historic—from the original ranch—while the new lodge was built more recently. All are spacious, with private bathrooms and attractive pine interiors.

P.O. Box 160069, Big Sky, MT 59716. www.lonemountainranch.com. 800/514-4644 or 406/995-4644. Fax 406/995-4670. 23 cabins, 1 house, 6 rooms in Ridgetop Lodge. Winter: Cabin or lodge room $2,562–$3,528 1st person, $1,605 each additional person; Douglas Fir House $5,005 1st person, $1,605 each additional person. Lower rates for children 12 and under. Rates include 7 nights’ lodging, 3 meals daily, an 8-day trail pass with unlimited access to the ranch’s trail system, evening entertainment, a sleigh-ride dinner, and a trail buffet lunch. Summer rates are slightly higher. DISC, MC, V. From Bozeman, head south on U.S. 191 about 45 miles. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; children’s program; outdoor Jacuzzi. In room: Hair dryer, no phone, Wi-Fi (free).

320 Guest Ranch Bordered by the Gallatin River, the 320 Guest Ranch dates from 1898 and is one of the few cowboy-oriented accommodations in Montana that takes guests by the night (and not the week) year-round. With a full slate of activities—horseback riding, fishing in the river or a trout pond on-site, hayrides, and plenty more in the winter—the ranch is self-contained but also offers a good base for skiing Big Sky’s slopes or Yellowstone’s wildlands. Accommodations come in the form of seven lodge rooms and 52 cabins and log homes on the extensive grounds (320 acres, thus the name) that range from small and fairly basic, to two-bedroom log cabins on the river, to even larger guest homes. The furnishings are unremarkable but fitting, and the campfire out front roars every night for marshmallows and cowboy poetry.

205 Buffalo Horn Creek, Gallatin Gateway, MT 59730. www.320ranch.com. 800/243-0320 or 406/995-4283. Fax 406/993-4694. 59 units, including 52 cabins and log homes. $148–$398 double; lower rates in winter. AE, DISC, MC, V. 15 miles south of the turnoff to Big Sky Resort on U.S. 191. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge. In room: TV, kitchen, Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat

There are almost two dozen eateries at Big Sky, so you know you won’t go hungry. But the closer you are to the slopes, the more expensive the food is; on-mountain is naturally most expensive. Restaurants range from simple snack bars to the upscale Huntley Lodge Dining Room ( 406/995-5783), which has a good breakfast buffet in the morning and fine dining in the evening. Big Sky also has more than a dozen nightspots.

In the Meadow Village area, there are about a dozen restaurants, including the Blue Moon Bakery ( 406/995-2305), which is open for all three meals and has good sandwiches and fresh-baked pastries, along with salads, soups, and pizza, and free delivery after 5pm. The locals’ favorite is the Corral Bar and Steakhouse, 42895 U.S. 191, about 5 miles south of the turnoff to Big Sky ( 406/995-4249), serving primarily steaks—including buffalo T-bone—and seafood. Main courses run $10 to $35 at dinner.

The restaurant at Lone Mountain Ranch (see “Where to Stay”) is excellent, and in the winter, there is a sleigh ride and dinner at the ranch’s North Fork cabin. There is a buffet breakfast and lunch each day. Call 406/995-2782 after 3pm for dinner reservations.

Buck’s T-4 Restaurant ★★ NEW AMERICAN Buck’s offers an adventurous menu of “Montana cuisine,” with about a half-dozen wild game dishes, including pan-seared elk chops (a bone-in pork chop, chargrilled and served with raspberry-chipotle sauce), pan-roasted pheasant breast, and the New Zealand red deer sirloin. Our choice here, though, is any of the chargrilled steaks, served with hand-smashed potatoes and a daily vegetable. Of special note is the old bar, part of the original building here and still sporting the same well-worn bar and Technicolor vinyl-tile flooring.

U.S. 191, Big Sky. www.buckst4.com. 406/993-5222. Reservations recommended. Entrees $24–$32. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. About 1⁄2-mile south of its intersection with Lone Mountain Trail. Daily 6–9:30pm. Closed mid-Apr to mid-June and early Oct to late Nov.

Livingston & the Paradise Valley ★★

Livingston: 26 miles E of Bozeman; 110 miles W of Billings; 58 miles N of Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park

Livingston is caught between very cowboy and very hip. As the largest community in the Paradise Valley, it has been discovered by the Hollywood set who want to get away from it all, but unfortunately still bring some of it with them. Peter Fonda has a ranch here, and you might see Dennis Quaid, Robert Redford, or Anthony Bourdain.

The Paradise Valley is the product of the Yellowstone River, the largest undammed river in the Lower 48. Along with the two valleys paralleling it to the west—the Gallatin and Madison—this portion of Montana is a fly-fishing paradise. There are lots of fishing guides and tackle shops, and millions of acres to wander in and wonder at.

Essentials

Getting There The nearest airport is Bozeman’s Gallatin Field, 26 miles west along I-90. It’s also possible to fly into Billings’s Logan Airport, 116 miles east along I-90.

The Gardiner entrance to Yellowstone National Park is 53 miles south on U.S. 89. For statewide road reports, call 800/226-7623 or 511. Greyhound and Rimrock Stages provide bus service. The bus depot is at 1404 E. Park St. ( 406/222-2231).

Visitor Information The Livingston Area Chamber of Commerce is located at 303 E. Park St. (www.livingston-chamber.com; 406/222-0850). For information on Yellowstone Country, call 800/736-5276 or 406/556-8680 (www.yellowstonecountry.net).

Getting Around Car rentals are available at Gallatin Field Airport in Bozeman.

Getting Outside

Much of the outdoor recreation in this area takes place in the Gallatin National Forest. Check with the Yellowstone-Livingston Ranger District, 5242 U.S. 89 S., Livingston, MT 59047 (www.fs.usda.gov/gallatin; 406/222-1892). Another good source of information on hiking, mountain biking, cross-country skiing, and snowshoeing, as well as equipment rentals and sales, is Timber Trails Outdoors Co., 309 W. Park St. ( 406/222-9550).

Cross-Country Skiing & Snowshoeing

The most popular spots are in the national forest. For specific locations and current conditions, check with the Livingston Ranger District or Timber Trails Outdoors Co. (see above).

Dogsledding

Absaroka Dogsled Treks (www.extrememontana.com; 406/222-4645), based in Chico Hot Springs Resort, offers a variety of dogsled treks on trails in the Mill Creek Canyon and the Absaroka Mountain range. Established in 1990, this is the oldest dogsled tour operator in Montana. Guests can choose to mush (drive the sled) or ride in the wooden sleds and simply enjoy the untouched scenery. Tours range from half-day to full-day, and cost from $120 to $320 per person.

Fishing

Montana has the best trout fishing in the country, and the area around here is the best trout fishing in Montana. Livingston is the gateway to classic Montana fly-fishing in the blue-ribbon Madison River, the Paradise Valley, and the Yellowstone River. Dan Bailey’s Fly Shop, 209 W. Park St. (www.dan-bailey.com; 800/356-4052), in business since 1938, offers all manner of fishing tackle for sale or rent. Bailey’s can give you some tips on where to fish on your own, or provide a guide for about $400 a day for one angler or $425 for two. Hatch Finders Fly Shop, 113 W. Park St., No. 3 (www.hatchfinders.com; 406/222-0989), can tie your custom flies and also provide outfitters almost anywhere in the state. A full-day guided trip in the Yellowstone River area is $450 for two anglers (plus Montana fishing licenses), or $475 in Yellowstone proper. About a quarter-mile south of town, at 5256 U.S. 89 S., George Anderson’s Yellowstone Angler (www.yellowstoneangler.com; 406/222-7130) is another fully equipped equipment store and guide service ($450 a day for two). Anderson also offers a fly-fishing school. About 20 miles south of Livingston in the town of Pray is Knoll’s Yellowstone Tackle and Fly Shop, 104 Chicory Rd. (www.knolls.us; 406/333-4848). Here you can learn how to cast and how feathers mysteriously become fishing flies, or purchase a handcrafted rod or reel. Take U.S. 89 south to Emigrant, then east and northeast on C.R. 540 to Pray.

Early-season fishing before runoff starts—in late April and early May—offers excellent dry fly-fishing. In late May and June, the water on most of the rivers is running high and muddy, but the Firehole River in Yellowstone National Park has a heavy early hatch, and the fishing is good. All fishing in the park is catch and release. The rivers drop in July and August, and there are hatches daily for good fishing.

Hiking & Biking

This area is nearly surrounded by the Gallatin National Forest, which has several thousand miles of hiking and biking trails, including more than 800 miles of hiking trails in two designated wilderness areas—the Lee Metcalf and Absaroka-Beartooth. Popular trails that are relatively easily accessible include Pine Creek Falls, south of town off the East River Road. The falls themselves are a short walk from the campground at the end of the access road, and Pine Creek Lake is about 4 miles farther along. Livingston Peak (or Mount Baldy Trail) is east of town off Swingley Road, and the Big Timber Canyon Trail is north of the town of Big Timber. The Livingston Ranger District of the U.S. Forest Service and Timber Trails Outdoors Co. (see “Getting Outside,” above) can provide information about trails and access routes to them. Timber Trails also rents mountain bikes starting at about $25 per day.

Horseback Riding

Chico Hot Springs ( 406/333-4933), about 22 miles south of Livingston off U.S. 89 to the east, also offers horseback riding. Wilderness Pack Trips, 209 K St. (www.wildernesspacktrips.com; 406/848-9953), offers 4- to 10-day horse-packing trips into Yellowstone National Park. Rates are about $1,500 to $3,000. Call or check their website for their current schedule and availability.

Rafting

Both scenic and white-water rafting and kayaking are available on the Yellowstone River throughout the Paradise Valley. Rubber Ducky River Rentals, 4 Mount Baldy Dr. (www.riverservices.com; 406/222-3746), provides guided trips June through September, or will rent boats and equipment and provide river shuttles. Call for current schedules and rates.

Seeing the Sights

The main attractions in downtown Livingston are its two museums, both of which contain gift shops.

Livingston Depot Center ★ This is a beautifully restored 1902 Northern Pacific railway depot, built in handsome Italianate style, that is one of the most stunning railroad stations I’ve ever seen (it was designed by the same architects who designed Grand Central Station in New York City). The depot houses a museum with exhibits that concentrate on the history of the railroad and how it contributed to the development of the area. There are videos and interactive displays in this thoroughly modern look at the olden days, and the museum also hosts changing exhibits on some aspect of local history, such as explorers Lewis and Clark (the depot is a designated stop on the Lewis and Clark Trail) or the story of Montana’s railroads.

200 W. Park St. www.livingstonmuseums.org. 406/222-2300. Free admission. June–Sept Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 1–5pm. Closed Oct–May.

Yellowstone Gateway Museum of Park County Located in a historic school, this museum offers artifacts from Livingston’s early days—including an 1889 train caboose and a Yellowstone National Park stagecoach—and exhibits of the prehistoric people who lived in this area some 10,000 years ago.

118 W. Chinook St. www.livingstonmuseums.org. 406/222-4184. $4 adults, $3.50 seniors, $3 children 6–12, free for kids 5 and under. May–Aug daily 10am–5pm; Mar–Apr and Sept–Dec Thurs–Sat 10am–5pm.

Art Galleries

Livingston is a center of Western art and artists, and there are about a dozen galleries in town. For Western wildlife and fly-fishing art, try the Visions West Gallery, at 108 S. Main St. (www.visionswestgallery.com; 406/222-0337), with woodcarvings, bronzes, and original oils. You’ll find the work of Russell Chatham, a Livingston artist known for his oils and lithographs of Western landscapes, at the Chatham Fine Art Gallery, 120 N. Main St. (www.russellchatham.com; 406/222-1566). The Danforth Gallery, 106 N. Main St. (www.pcfadanforth.org; 406/222-6510), is a nonprofit gallery of contemporary Western art that changes its exhibits every month in the summer.

Where to Stay

Right across from Livingston’s downtown depot, the Murray Hotel, 201 W. Park St. (www.murrayhotel.com; 406/222-1350), opened in 1904 and has since put up everyone from director Sam Peckinpah to the queen of Denmark. Off the lobby, there’s a good restaurant and a classic Western bar. Double rates are $79 to $98; suites are $139 to $339 for a two-bedroom, two-bath unit with a kitchen. Among the chains in town are Rodeway Inn, 102 Rogers Lane ( 406/222-6320), a woodsy motel with a candy shop on-site and double rates of $69 to $149, and the Best Western Yellowstone Inn and Conference Center, 1515 W. Park St. (www.theyellowstoneinn.com; 800/770-1874 or 406/222-6110), with a long list of facilities and amenities and rooms for $89 to $135 double.

Chico Hot Springs Resort ★★ Rambling over 150 magnificent acres in the Paradise Valley, just 30 miles north of Yellowstone National Park, Chico offers a taste of gentility, cowboy style. The hot springs were discovered in 1876. The lodge opened in June 1900 and has been going strong ever since. There’s a bewildering variety of lodgings, from small rooms that share a bathroom to newer deluxe rooms, plus rustic log cabins, a standalone caboose-turned-lodging, and a five-bedroom, two-bathroom private house. The three-story original Main Lodge is furnished mostly with antiques and houses the casually elegant restaurant. Two open-air mineral hot-springs pools are just outside and are open daily from 6am to midnight year-round. Most rooms have high-speed Internet access. In the film Rancho Deluxe—screenplay by local resident Tom McGuane—Sam Waterston and Jeff Bridges soak in Chico’s hot pool in their cowboy hats.

1 Chico Rd., Pray, MT 59065. www.chicohotsprings.com. 800/468-9232 or 406/333-4933. Fax 406/333-4964. 110 units. $124–$129 double; $55–$93 double with shared bathroom; $179–$225 suite; $79–$225 cabin; $169–$355 private house. AE, DISC, MC, V. Pets accepted ($20 per pet, per stay). Amenities: 2 restaurants (see “Where to Eat,” below); saloon; 2 outdoor hot-springs pools; Wi-Fi (free). In room: Kitchen (in some), no phone.

Mountain Sky Guest Ranch ★★ This guest ranch sits among 5,000 acres and is just 30 miles from the north entrance of Yellowstone and about an hour’s drive from Bozeman. Weeklong stays focus on outdoor activities such as white-water rafting, riding, and hiking. Summers are popular with families (couples would do better coming in fall or spring), and the kids’ camp program keeps the young ones busy. Individual log cabins come in various one-, two-, or three-bedroom configurations; the two-bed/two-bathroom Granite is popular, as is P3, with its big living room, three bedrooms, and view over the property. Yoga and massage are offered, but keep in mind that the latter fills up quickly, so sign up for your time slots when you check in. Dining is community style, so if you don’t know anyone at the start of your trip, you’ll be sure to leave with at least a few new friends.

P.O. Box 1219, Emigrant, MT 59027. www.mtnsky.com. 800/548-3392 or 406/333-4911. 32 cabins. Weekly rates mid-June to late Aug adults $3,460–$5,000, ages 7–12 $2,930–$4,310, ages 18 months–6 $2,275–$3,460, and ages 17 months and under $725; early May to mid-June and late Aug to mid-Oct adults only $335–$365 double. Rates include all meals, beverages, gratuities, and on-ranch activities, such as hiking, horseback riding, and pond fishing. MC, V. Closed mid-Oct to late Apr or early May. From Bozeman, take I-90 east, then U.S. 89 south; ranch is 7 miles past Emigrant. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; children’s programs; fitness center; outdoor Jacuzzi; heated outdoor pool; sauna; outdoor tennis court; Wi-Fi (free). In room: A/C, hair dryer, no phone.

Camping

There are plenty of camping opportunities in the Gallatin National Forest, including Pine Creek and West Boulder campgrounds to the south of town toward Yellowstone National Park. For information, contact the Yellowstone-Livingston Ranger District, 5242 U.S. 89 S., Livingston (www.fs.usda.gov/gallatin; 406/222-1892).

Nine miles south of Livingston is the Livingston/Paradise Valley KOA, 163 Pine Creek Rd. ( 800/562-2805 or 406/222-0992). Open from May to mid-October, the facility boasts an indoor heated pool, a snack bar, liquefied petroleum (LP) gas sales, and a bathhouse. The campground is situated along the Yellowstone River, with shady sites that cost $25 to $30 for tents and $20 to $41 for RVs. Cabins range from $65 to $150 a night. Yellowstone’s Edge, 3502 U.S. 89 S., Livingston (www.mtrv.com; 800/865-7322 or 406/333-4036), is located on a bluff overlooking the Yellowstone River. Open from May to mid-October, it has both pull-through sites and back-in sites along the river for RVs, plus grassy tent sites and a lodge with a store, game room, laundry room, and bathhouse. There’s also a dump station and LP gas available. RV sites cost $44 to $49. A fully furnished cabin, the River Suite, rents for $160 for the first night and $125 each additional night.

Where to Eat

The Sport Bar & Grill, 114 S. Main St., Livingston (www.thesportbarandgrill.com; 406/222-3800) is a great casual spot for a beer and a burger; they serve up beer exclusively from the local Neptune Brewery.

The Chico Dining Room ★★★ CONTINENTAL The Chico Hot Springs Resort is 30 miles north of Gardiner, but if you’re in the area, stop here for some of the best food in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem and a soak in this resort’s hot springs. The carnivorous traveler will enjoy the selection of locally sourced top-drawer beef, the pine nut–crusted Alaskan halibut is a seafood aficionado’s dream, and wine lovers won’t be disappointed one bit by the award-winning list. Many of the incredibly fresh veggies originate in the resort’s garden and greenhouse, and the menu always includes a vegetarian selection. You’ll want to linger over the food, so consider a night’s stay.

Old Chico Rd., Pray. www.chicohotsprings.com. 406/333-4933. Reservations recommended. Main courses $25–$40. AE, DISC, MC, V. Summer daily 5:30–10pm; winter Sun–Thurs 5:30–9pm, Fri–Sat 5:30–10pm; Sun brunch 8:30–11:30am.

Grand Hotel ★ LAMB/SEAFOOD This beautiful restaurant is located in downtown Big Timber, about 30 miles east of Livingston, in an 1890 hotel that has been beautifully restored. The ingenious menu lists starters such as elk rellenos and calamari tempura, before giving way to main dishes such as herb-roasted racks of lamb, “butter-knife” filets, and mountain morel-crusted chicken breasts. The restaurant has won the Wine Spectator award of excellence numerous times for its all-American wine list.

139 McLeod St., Big Timber. www.thegrand-hotel.com. 406/932-4459. Lunch and brunch $5–$12; dinner $17–$35. DISC, MC, V. Sun–Fri 11am–2pm; daily 5–9pm.

Second Street Bistro ★★ FRENCH/AMERICAN This slick, stylish eatery, in the lobby of the Murray Hotel, is the cream of the Livingston culinary crop, serving a creative, simple menu of French-inspired plates with an emphasis on local ingredients. Appetizers include escargot, fried brie, and of course French fries, while main courses include individual gourmet pizzas and hearty American standards (meatloaf and pork chops) as well as steaks, pastas, and salads. There is a voluminous wine list, as well as a full bar.

123 N. 2nd St., in the Murray Hotel, Livingston. www.secondstreetbistro.com. 406/222-9463. Reservations recommended. Main courses and pizzas $12–$29. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5–9pm. Closed Mon in winter.

Red Lodge & the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness

60 miles SW of Billings; 62 miles NW of Cody, Wyoming

Nestled in a steep valley at the edge of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness and surrounded by the spectacular Beartooth Mountains, the community of Red Lodge is not quite a tourist town, not quite a destination ski resort, but still not the sleepy little town it once was, either. It has elements of all three, giving it a homey and still busy feel. While it is slowly losing its small-town identity in favor of a resort persona, this hasn’t happened completely.

Founded as a coal-mining community in the late 1880s, it did fairly well until the mines closed in the 1930s. Today it’s the beautiful scenery and outdoor activities around Red Lodge that attract us. It doesn’t hurt that the town sits at the northern end of the Beartooth National Scenic Byway, which the late Charles Kuralt called the most beautiful road in America.

Essentials

Getting There To reach Red Lodge, you’ll have to fly into Billings’s Logan International Airport (www.flybillings.com; 406/247-8609). From Billings, take I-94 west to Laurel, about 16 miles, then go south on U.S. 212/310. The route diverges after about 12 miles at the small town of Rockvale. Follow U.S. 212 southwest 44 miles to Red Lodge. Rental cars are plentiful at Billings’s airport. For road conditions concerning the Red Lodge area and closures of the Beartooth National Scenic Byway, call 800/226-7623 or 511 on your mobile phone.

Visitor Information Contact the Red Lodge Area Chamber of Commerce, 601 N. Broadway, P.O. Box 988, Red Lodge, MT 59068 (www.redlodgechamber.com; 888/281-0625 or 406/446-1718).

Getting Outside

Many of the outdoor activities in these parts take place in Custer National Forest. For information, contact the Beartooth Ranger District Office of Custer National Forest, at the south end of town along U.S. 212 (HC 49, P.O. Box 3420, Red Lodge, MT 59068; www.fs.fed.us/r1/custer; 406/446-2103). The office is open daily from 8am to 5pm in summer, and Monday through Friday 8am to 4:30pm in winter.

Biking

The area around Red Lodge offers wonderful trails for biking. Beartooth Bike Tours (www.beartoothbiketours.com; 406/426/0787), offers a variety of tours, taking riders to the top of the Beartooth National Scenic Byway (in a bus), then letting riders cycle downhill on the scenic road; bike tours cost $45–$50 per person.

Cross-Country Skiing

Cross-country skiing is available at the Red Lodge Nordic Center (www.beartoothtrails.org/nordic-center), just a few miles northwest of the town of Red Lodge. There are about 10 miles of groomed trails here; the fee is $5 per person. Equipment can be rented from the Sylvan Peak Mountain Shop ( 406/446-1770) in Red Lodge.

Downhill Skiing

Red Lodge Mountain Resort (P.O. Box 750, Red Lodge, MT 59068; www.redlodgemountain.com; 800/444-8977 or 406/446-2610) is a relatively small, family-oriented ski area. But it’s growing: The skiable terrain includes 1,600 acres of mountain, with a vertical drop of 2,400 feet. There are about 70 trails, with 17% of the terrain for beginners, 45% intermediate, and 38% advanced and expert. Of the eight lifts, two are high-speed quads. An average of 250 inches of snow falls each year, plus Red Lodge has one of the largest snowmaking operations in the Rockies. Lift tickets cost $49 for adults, $41 for seniors 65 to 69, $42 for juniors 13 to 18, and $19 for children 6 to 12 (free for kids 5 and under and seniors 70 and over); half-day tickets are also available. The season usually runs from late November to early April, with hours of 9am to 4pm.

And They’re Off . . . to the pig Races?

Bored with the rodeo? Horse racing seems ho-hum? Just head down to the Bear Creek Saloon & Steakhouse (www.redlodge.com/bearcreek; 406/446-3481); behind the bar is Bearcreek Downs, site of the famed local pig races.

After the famous fires in Yellowstone in 1988 created a slow tourist season, the Bear Creek Saloon & Steakhouse owners decided that a pig race might generate some visitor interest. There was some question over whether the races were legal, but the Montana legislature stepped in and said pig races were okay by them, provided the proceeds went to charity. So Bearcreek Downs porkers are sending Carbon County students to college—more than $75,000 has gone for scholarships so far. Pig races are held Thursday through Sunday at 7pm, from Memorial Day to Labor Day.

Even if you don’t come for the races, the Bear Creek Saloon & Steakhouse is a great place to eat. It’s an authentic Western tavern, and the grub is mostly beef. Prices range from $7.50 to $28, and food is served Thursday through Sunday from 5 to 10pm. The saloon is 7 miles east of Red Lodge on County Road 308.

Golf

The Red Lodge Mountain Golf Course ( 406/446-3344) is notorious for swallowing golf balls. Water comes into play on 13 of the 18 holes. The signature hole is the 238-yard, par-3 no. 15, where you hit to an island green from an elevated tee about 80 feet above the hole. Adult greens fees are $43 to $56 for 18 holes, cart included.

Hiking

There are some popular and challenging day hikes not far from Red Lodge. Drive south on Route 212 about 10 miles to County Road 2346, then 2 miles down that road to the Lake Fork of Rock Creek. From here, you can do a full loop of 19 miles to the West Fork of Rock Creek trail head (or do it as an overnight backpacking trip), or just walk up a few miles to some great fishing in the streams and lakes along the way and return.

Other popular hikes leave from the trail head at the West Fork of Rock Creek. Head west on Red Lodge Mountain Resort’s access road, known locally as Ski Run Road. When the road forks, stay left and continue for several miles past a number of campgrounds. The road turns to gravel and ends at the West Fork trail head. The hike from here to Timberline Lakes is a moderate 9 miles round-trip. If you’re not feeling that energetic, you can hike for about a mile to a picturesque waterfall. The fishing in Lake Mary near the trail is very good.

The Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness area is a 950,000-acre wilderness that extends from the boundary of Yellowstone through two national forests. It’s some of the most spectacular country in the Lower 48 states. Because of its proximity to the park, it is heavily used. There are lots of great hikes, incredible vistas, and pristine lakes with excellent trout fishing. Granite Peak, at 12,807 feet, is the tallest mountain in Montana, but it’s only one of the 28 mountains topping 12,000 feet in the Absaroka-Beartooth.

For information about the above trails, contact the Beartooth Ranger District Office (see “Getting Outside,” above).

Seeing the Sights

When it’s open, the Beartooth National Scenic Byway, a 64-mile stretch of U.S. 212 from Red Lodge to Cooke City, is an incredible road that takes you to almost 11,000 feet elevation. Make sure a camera is handy when Pilot Peak comes into view, just outside Cooke City.

Beartooth Nature Center The Beartooth Nature Center is the only nature center in Montana that provides a home exclusively for animals that have been injured, orphaned, or too accustomed to humans to be returned to the wild. Residents, about 60 at a recent count, include mountain lions, wolves, coyotes, black bears, bison, eagles, and other animals native to Montana.

615 2nd Ave. E., Red Lodge. www.beartoothnaturecenter.org. 406/446-1133. $7 adults, $6 seniors 55 and older, $3 children 5–15, free for children 4 and under. May–Sept daily 10am–5pm; Oct–Apr daily 10am–2pm.

Carbon County Historical Society Museum Highlights of this well-run and interesting museum include a simulated coal mine that recalls Red Lodge’s underground past, and the Greenough Collection of cowboy and rodeo gear. There’s also a Crow Indian tipi, a mountain man camp, and pioneer displays. This is the place to find out more about “Liver Eatin’” Johnston, who got his name because . . . no, it’s too repulsive. You’ll have to find out for yourself.

224 N. Broadway at 8th Ave., Red Lodge. www.carboncountyhistory.org. 406/446-3667. $5 adults, $3 students, free for children 5 and under. Memorial Day to Labor Day Mon–Sat 10am–6pm, Sun 11am–3pm; rest of year Thurs–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat 11am–3pm.

Where to Stay

In addition to the properties discussed below, I recommend the Comfort Inn of Red Lodge, 612 N. Broadway, Red Lodge, MT 59068 ( 406/446-4469), which charges $140 to $160 double in peak season.

Chateau Rouge The Chateau Rouge offers excellent accommodations at a very reasonable price, especially for families. Though run like a motel, the Chateau Rouge is actually a collection of privately owned condominiums. Most are two-story, two-bedroom affairs with a living room (with a fireplace) and kitchen on the first floor and the sleeping rooms upstairs. The two-story condos have large, fully appointed kitchens, while the studios have small but complete kitchens. All are attractively decorated and maintained. The only drawback—a minor one, in our opinion—is that they are not air-conditioned, which can be uncomfortable on those rare summer days when the mountain temperatures reach the 90s (30s Celsius).

1505 S. Broadway, Red Lodge, MT 59068. www.chateaurouge.com. 800/926-1601 or 406/446-1601. Fax 406/446-1602. 24 units. $89–$119 double studio; $125–$149 double 2-bedroom condo. Lower rates in spring and fall. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Indoor Jacuzzi; indoor pool. In room: TV, kitchen/kitchenette, Wi-Fi (free).

The Pollard ★★ Built in 1893 by the Rocky Fork Coal Company at an initial cost of $20,000, the Pollard has undergone a magnificent restoration a century later, integrating modern conveniences with historical character and elegance. It has been a stopover for a number of Old West celebrities, including Buffalo Bill Cody, Calamity Jane, and Jeremiah “Liver Eatin’” Johnston. The Pollard has a three-story gallery with a wood-burning fireplace. No two rooms are exactly alike, but most are large, done with manly oak furniture and ladylike flower-print comforters. Six have balconies overlooking the lobby; many have Jacuzzi tubs. The entire operation is first class. For fine dining, the Vintage One Bistro opened in 2011.

2 N. Broadway, Red Lodge, MT 59068. www.thepollard.com. 800/765-5273 or 406/446-0001. Fax 406/446-0002. 38 units. $95–$200 double; $270–$295 suite. Lower rates spring and fall. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge; health club; indoor Jacuzzi; room service; sauna. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Rock Creek Resort ★★ This property was built in 1963 as a dormitory for members of an international ski-racing camp founded by owner Pepi Gramshammer. Rock Creek retains much of the ski atmosphere that produced it, although the ski hill is a good 5 miles away, plus it’s got all sorts of warm-weather recreation (a stocked trout pond, horseshoe pits, and a soccer field). The cedar-sided Beartooth Lodge, the main building, boasts a huge fireplace made of river rock and windows that offer mountain views. A wide variety of accommodations decorated in a Western theme are available, from mountain lodge–style units with lots of wood, to luxurious condominiums and three-bedroom town houses. Many units have wood-burning stoves or fireplaces, patios or balconies, or a private hot tub. It would be hard to find a room here without a wonderful view.

6380 U.S. 212 S., Red Lodge, MT 59068. www.rockcreekresort.com. 800/667-1119 or 406/446-1111. Fax 406/237-9851. 87 units. $140–$375 double. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. From Red Lodge, drive 5 miles south on U.S. 212. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 lounges; bike rental; weight room; Jacuzzi; indoor pool; sauna; 4 tennis courts; volleyball court. In room: TV, hair dryer, kitchenette, Wi-Fi (free).

Camping

There are 16 Forest Service campgrounds available in the Red Lodge area, with sites for more than 700 campers. Many of the larger campgrounds accept reservations through the National Recreation Reservation Service (www.recreation.gov; 877/444-6777), and the rest are first come, first served. For information, contact the Beartooth Ranger District Office of Custer National Forest, at the south end of town along U.S. 212 ( 406/446-2103).

Those seeking commercial campgrounds, with all the usual RV hookups and other amenities, can head to the Red Lodge KOA, 7464 U.S. 212 ( 800/562-7540 or 406/446-2364). It has grassy and shady sites, a heated outdoor pool, and a convenience store, and charges $27 to $34 for tents, $35 to $45 for RVs, and $55 to $60 for basic cabins. It’s typically open from mid-May through September.

Where to Eat

In addition to the restaurants discussed below, see the box “And They’re Off . . . to the Pig Races?” above for information on the Bear Creek Saloon & Steakhouse. Bogart’s, 11 S. Broadway ( 406/446-1784), offers pizza, sandwiches, and Mexican fare. A good bet for a burger, a bowl of chili, a beer, or a ballgame (or any combination thereof) is Foster and Logan’s Pub and Grill, 17 S. Broadway ( 406/446-9080). The Red Lodge Ales Brewery, 1445 N. Broadway (www.redlodgeales.com; 406/446-0243), offers up a variety of sandwiches and salads, along with their home-brewed beers. Café Regis (www.caferegis.com; 406/446-1941) is a great spot for breakfast and lunch, with hearty local, organic fare.

Bridge Creek Backcountry Kitchen and Wine Bar ★★ NEW AMERICAN Bridge Creek is a local favorite, with a widely varied, moderately priced menu. Lunches include wraps, salads, sandwiches on fresh-baked breads, and homemade soups, including an excellent clam chowder. At dinner, you’ll find creative seafood, chicken, beef, and pasta dishes, as well as hand-tossed gourmet pizzas. The house salad with huckleberry-balsamic vinaigrette is a must. The wine bar is a small, bright room with an extensive wine list that for several years has received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. The atmosphere is casual, sort of California cafe with a Western flavor. Open at 11am daily, a Starbucks coffee bar here serves a wide selection of espresso, cappuccino, latte, mocha, and iced drinks, plus freshly baked pastries, and offers free Wi-Fi. There is also a wine shop and specialty market up front.

116 S. Broadway Ave. www.eatfooddrinkwine.com. 406/446-9900. Lunch main courses $9–$23; dinner $10–$33. DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm. Closed Sun–Mon fall to spring.

Old Piney Dell ★★ SWISS/AMERICAN Located in a 1920s homesteader’s cabin on the banks of Rock Creek, this is where locals come for a special evening. If you like Wiener schnitzel, this place is for you—the veal is lightly breaded and delicately pan-fried to perfection. The steaks and pretzel-crusted pork chops are other specialties, and chicken and lamb are also on the menu. Ask about the nightly specials.

In Rock Creek Resort. www.rockcreekresort.com. 406/446-1196. Reservations recommended. Dinner main courses $14–$30. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5:30–9pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10pm; Sun 9am–1pm. Closed Sun–Wed Nov–May. From Red Lodge, drive 5 miles south on U.S. 212.

Vintage One Bistro ★★ AMERICAN Located inside the Pollard hotel, this elegant fine dining option is a member of the Western Sustainability Exchange, serving locally-sourced organic food. Start with the antipasto platter which features local specialties, like homemade wild game charcuterie from the nearby 4th Avenue Meat Market, house-made pickles, and smoked trout spread with crostini and cheese. Excellent main dishes include a heaping portion of succulent prime rib of beef, slow-roasted duck leg confit, and salmon wellington. There are several vegetarian options on the menu, like wild mushroom risotto and quinoa-stuffed squash. Complement your meal with a glass of wine from the expansive wine list or a vintage cocktail from the bar, like a Pimm’s Cup or a Sazerac. The restaurant is also open for breakfast daily.

In the Pollard. www.thepollard.com. 406/446-0001. Reservations recommended. Dinner main courses $16–$32. AE, MC, V. Fri–Tues 7–11am and 5:30–9pm; Wed–Thurs 7–11am.