Chapter 10: Billings & Eastern Montana

The plains of eastern Montana offer a more subtle beauty than the rugged mountains to the west. A land of rolling hills, dusty bluffs and badlands, and the occasional rock-walled canyon, this is classic cattle and wheat country, with grass thick and green in spring, brown and dry by fall, and blanketed by snow in winter. Temperatures can be extreme: hot in the summer under a blazing sun, and bitter cold in the winter, dipping below zero for long stretches.

Eastern Montana’s history is rich: Lewis and Clark trekked along the Missouri River, and one of the most famous battles of the American West, the Battle of the Little Bighorn, was fought here.

In the old days, travel in eastern Montana was defined by the railroads. Virtually every town with 300 people and a tavern could be reached by either the main line or a spur. But the romantic days of rail travel have been replaced by the automobile, and interstates have triumphed over the rails. I-94 sweeps across the state west to east, I-15 cuts through the Rockies from Idaho to the Canadian border, and I-90 dips south from near Billings to the Crow Reservation in Sheridan, Wyoming.

Billings

104 miles W of Cody, Wyoming; 123 miles N of Sheridan, Wyoming; 142 miles E of Bozeman; 339 miles E of Missoula

Eastern Montana

Billings

The most populous city in Montana with about 105,000 residents, Billings might well be the most urban place in Montana or Wyoming. You’ll find real shopping malls here, along with the occasional five o’clock traffic jam and the tallest free-standing brick building in the world (the 23-story Crowne Plaza). Since its 1880s development by Frederick Billings as a railroad town, the city has evolved into the economic and industrial hub for the entire region.

Once a booming oil town, as well as a crossroads for the railroads, Billings has now positioned itself as the progressive medical center for all of eastern Montana, the Dakotas, and Wyoming. The economy is still centered on energy and agriculture, but downtown Billings boasts new banks and contemporary business centers, with many historic buildings enjoying restorations since the turn of the 21st century. Billings also has its share of scenic splendor: From the rimrocks surrounding the city, you can see the Pryor Mountains, the Bighorns, and the majestic Beartooths to the west.

Essentials

Getting There Billings’s Logan International Airport (www.flybillings.com; 406/247-8609) is the state’s busiest, located about 2 miles north of downtown. Service is provided by Alaska/Horizon, Allegiant, Delta/SkyWest, Frontier, Northwest, and United. Also here is Gulfstream International Airlines (www.flygia.com; 800/499-7450), flying in eastern Montana to such cities as Glendive, Havre, and Wolf Point.

If you’re traveling by car, I-90 connects Billings to Bozeman, Butte, and Missoula in the west before crossing into Idaho; I-90 east heads southeast into Wyoming. I-94 branches off I-90 10 miles east of town and runs northeast through Miles City and Glendive before reaching North Dakota. U.S. 87 heads north out of Billings to Roundup, and U.S. 310 goes south to Lovell, Wyoming.

Visitor Information The Billings Chamber of Commerce & Convention and Visitors Bureau, 815 S. 27th St. (P.O. Box 31177), Billings, MT 59107 (www.visitbillings.com; 406/245-4111), has brochures, maps, and area information. Travel Montana’s Custer Country (www.custercountry.com; 800/346-1876) is another information source.

Getting Around Billings’s downtown street system might be a bit confusing at first but can be mastered if you remember that Montana Avenue is the dividing line between north and south. Numbered avenues run parallel to Montana, starting with 1st Avenue North and 1st Avenue South, which are located 1 block away on each side of it, and increasing from there. The numbered streets run perpendicular to Montana, their names changing from North to South as they cross it, and increase numerically from east to west. The heart of downtown lies north of Montana and is relatively compact. Its boundaries are North 27th and North 29th streets and 1st and 6th avenues North.

To access downtown from I-90, which skims the southern edge of the city, take exit 450 and go north on 27th Street; the Business Loop follows Montana Avenue between exits 446 and 452. Coming from the north, from Roundup, U.S. 87 turns into a four-lane road before heading west into the Heights, the northeastern part of the city. Follow this road into downtown, or turn right on Airport Road to reach Logan International Airport.

The best way to see Billings is to drive. Car-rental companies at the airport include Alamo/National ( 800/227-7368), Enterprise ( 800/261-7331), Hertz ( 800/654-3131), and Thrifty/Dollar ( 800/847-4389).

The city bus service is MET Transit ( 406/657-8218), with buses running from 5:50am to 6:40pm weekdays and 8:10am to 5:45pm Saturday. Fare is $1.25. Taxi service is available from City Cab ( 406/252-8700), Yellow Cab ( 406/245-3033), and Montana Custom Tours (www.montanacustomtours.com; 406/860-7439).

Black Otter Trail Scenic Drive

The Black Otter Trail Scenic Drive, following about 3 miles along the edge of the sheer rimrock overlooking Billings, affords a spectacular view of the city and the three mountain ranges in the distance. To get there, take Montana Avenue east to U.S. 87 and turn left (north). After you pass the MetraPark arena complex on your right, turn left onto Airport Road and, shortly thereafter, left again onto Black Otter Trail. Boot Hill Cemetery is at this end of the road and contains 40 of the unlucky residents of the town of Coulson, most of whom “died with their boots on.” It’s also the final resting place of the famous scout Yellowstone Kelly, who asked to be buried here above the land he scouted.

Getting Outside

Montana Fun Adventures Tours (www.montanafunadventures.com; 888/618-4386 or 406/254-7180) offers historical tours of Billings and vicinity, as well as 2-day packages into Yellowstone National Park. Total Transportation (www.mttotaltransportation.com; 800/698-1778 or 406/252-1778) offers trolley, carriage, and bus tours.

Fishing

Though the Yellowstone River runs through the city, it is wide, busy, and often muddy. The best nearby fishing is in the Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area (see “Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area,” later in this chapter), 83 miles southeast of town. Fishing guides come and go pretty often in the Billings area; to find a local one, the best bet is to ask at the Base Camp, 1730 Grand Ave. (www.thebasecamp.com; 406/248-4555).

Golf

Lake Hills Golf Club (www.lakehillsgolf.com; 406/252-9244), EagleRock Golf Course (www.eaglerockgolfcourse.com; 406/655-4445), and the Peter Yegen, Jr., Golf Club (www.yegengolfclub.com; 406/656-8099) are the three 18-hole public golf courses in Billings, with greens fees of $25 to $43, cart included. The par-3, 9-hole Exchange City Golf Course ( 406/652-2553) has greens fees of $12.

Nearby Parks & Nature Preserves

In town, there is a good multiuse trail system popular with joggers, walkers, and bikers. Contact Billings Parks & Public Lands (www.prpl.info; 406/657-8371) for information.

An unusual side trip is to Pictograph Cave State Park (www.pictographcave.org; 406/247-7342), where you can see cave paintings made by prehistoric people more than 4,500 years ago. There are more than 100 pictographs, in red and black pigments made from ashes, clay, and animal fat. The meaning of the designs is continually debated—were they ceremonial, or perhaps celebrations of a successful hunt or battle? (There are many images of shield-bearing warriors.) A short but fairly steep interpretive trail leads up to the caves, which are more like large stone alcoves than caves in the usual sense. They lie in a classic, sheer, broad sandstone canyon inhabited by rabbits and an occasional rattlesnake—so stay on the trail. From Billings, take I-90 east to exit 452 and follow the signs for 6 miles. The park is open May 1 to September 30 daily from 9am to 7pm, with shorter hours the rest of the year and an entrance fee of $5 per vehicle ($3 daily for walk- or bike-in visitors).

Locals go to nearby Lake Elmo State Park, 10 miles north of Billings on U.S. 87 (www.fwp.mt.gov; 406/247-2955), for picnicking, swimming, windsurfing, fishing, and volleyball. Boat rentals and windsurfing lessons are available in the summer; gas-powered boats are prohibited. There is also a dog park. Entrance fee is also $5 per vehicle ($3 daily for walk- or bike-in visitors).

Seeing the Sights

To view some modern artists’ contributions to decorating the West, drive the Avenue of the Sculptures along 27th Street (from I-90, take exit 450 to the airport) for an outdoor art show. The first work, The Cattle Drive Monument, is right outside the chamber of commerce’s visitor center. The Sheriff Webb Memorial Marker is on the courthouse lawn, and finally, in front of the airport is the Range Rider of the Yellowstone, posed for by silent-screen cowboy actor William Hart. Also around downtown, visitors will spot more public art in the form of a number of colorful equines from 2002’s “The Horse, Of Course!” fundraiser for the Billings Depot restoration.

Kids will enjoy Geyser Park, 4910 Southgate Dr. (www.geyserpark.net; 406/254-2510), featuring video games, a climbing wall, a laser tag arena, and a pizzeria.

Moss Mansion ★ This massive red-sandstone mansion, built in 1901 for Billings banker Preston B. Moss, was designed by prominent New York architect Henry Janeway Hardenbergh. It has many European influences, including a Moorish entry, a Shakespearean library, and a French Louis XVI parlor. Oak and mahogany millwork gives an elegant feel to the upstairs bedrooms. The mansion, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, has been used in various TV miniseries and Hollywood films, and was featured on A&E’s America’s Castles in 1997. Visitors view a short video about Moss and early Billings before taking the 1-hour guided tour of the home. The Moss Mansion also hosts various events during the spring and summer months, and is elaborately decorated for Christmas.

914 Division St. www.mossmansion.com. 406/256-5100. $7 adults, $5 seniors and students with ID, $3 children 6–12, free for children 5 and under. Summer guided tour every hour on the hour Mon–Sat 9am–4pm, Sun 1–3pm; winter daily 1–3pm, with expanded holiday hours from mid-Nov to Dec. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day.

Peter Yegen, Jr., Yellowstone County Museum Located next to the airport, this collection is housed in a century-old cabin, which has had such eminent visitors as Teddy Roosevelt and Buffalo Bill Cody. Rotating exhibits describe the history and diverse cultures of Montana and the Yellowstone River Basin, from prehistory through the 1950s. Changing exhibits of contemporary local and national artists are in the Landmarks Gallery. Also on the grounds: a vintage steam engine and a stuffed two-headed calf. The view of Billings and the surrounding countryside from the museum’s deck is terrific.

1950 Terminal Circle, adjacent to Logan International Airport. www.yellowstonecountymuseum.org. 406/256-6811. Free admission. Mon–Sat 10:30am–5:30pm; shorter winter hours. Closed Sun and national holidays.

Western Heritage Center A lot of Western museums are just vast collections of dusty reminders of bygone eras. But this facility, an affiliate of the Smithsonian Institution, has done an excellent job of interpreting and editing its extensive collection, making the panoramic history of Western settlement accessible to casual visitors. In addition to the usual exhibits of the area’s settlement by white people, the Heritage Center includes sensitive displays on the Crow tribe and on Japanese and other minority settlers. Interactive presentations include videos and recorded memories of three Yellowstone County homesteaders.

2822 Montana Ave. www.ywhc.org. 406/256-6809. $5 adults, $3 students and seniors, $1 children 11 and under. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm.

Yellowstone Art Museum ★★ Montana art aficionados are justifiably proud of the Yellowstone Art Museum, a leader in the contemporary Western art movement. The museum showcases the best the new West has to offer, from Deborah Butterfield’s ranch sculptures, to Russell Chatham’s gauzy landscapes, to Rudy Autio’s colorful, erotic ceramics. Additionally, the museum’s permanent collection—more than 3,000 pieces—includes the largest public gathering of the drawings, paintings, books, and memorabilia of cowboy illustrator Will James, plus paintings and drawings by other historic regional artists such as J. H. Sharp and Charles M. Russell. Changing exhibitions have recently spotlighted Pulitzer Prize–winning photographs and contemporary Native American beadwork by Montana artist Molly Murphy. Expect to spend up to 2 hours.

401 N. 27th St. www.artmuseum.org. 406/256-6804. $6 adults, $3 students and children 6–18, free for children 5 and under, $10 family. Tues–Sat 10am–5pm (Thurs–Fri until 8pm); Sun 11am–4pm.

Especially for Kids: animals, animals

The only wildlife and botanical park within 500 miles of Billings, ZooMontana concentrates on northern plains wildlife, some of which you may see on your trip through the state. There are nature trails meandering among the natural habitats of red pandas, eastern gray wolves, Manchurian sika deer, bald eagles, great horned owls, and the North American river otter; there’s a petting zoo in a farm and ranch setting.

Managed by the Beartooth Nature Center near Red Lodge, the zoo is also home to 2 of the 300 Siberian tigers remaining in the world, as well as to the retirees from a captive breeding program for black-footed ferrets, North America’s rarest mammal. A state-of-the-art grizzly bear habitat opened in 2008.

Take exit 443 north off I-90, head northwest on King Avenue to Shiloh Road, and then go south (www.zoomontana.org; 406/652-8100). Admission is $6.25 adults, $3.25 children 3 to 15, and $4.25 seniors 65 and over. May through late September, the zoo is open daily 10am to 5pm; late September through April daily 10am to 3pm.

Shopping

In the downtown area, the shopping district covers about 4 blocks on North 29th Street, Broadway, and 1st and 2nd avenues North. The area is heavy in the antiques line, but it also has a few boutiques and independent bookshops. For contemporary art, try the Toucan Gallery, 2505 Montana Ave. ( 406/252-0122), in the city’s historic district, offering prints, oils, handmade furniture, and ceramics. Open since 1919, the classic Western department store, where lots of real cowboys get their gear, is Lou Taubert Ranch Outfitters ( 406/245-2248), at 123 Broadway. Another Western standby, carrying everything from feed to fine art, is Shipton’s Big R, with locations at 216 N. 14th St. ( 406/252-0503) and 2600 Gabel Rd. ( 406/652-9118). If you’re in the market for a top-of-the-line custom cowboy hat, call Rand’s Custom Hats, 2205 1st Ave. N. (www.randhats.com; 800/346-9815). For outdoor clothing and equipment, check out Base Camp ( 406/248-4555) at 1730 Grand Ave. The primary mall is Rimrock Mall, 300 S. 24th St. W. (www.rimrockmall.com; 406/656-3206), with Dillard’s, a movie theater, and a wide range of national and local stores.

Where to Stay

In addition to the properties discussed below, you might consider the Holiday Inn Grand Montana, 5500 Midland Rd. (I-90 exit 446; 406/248-7701), with double rates of $129 to $159; or the C’mon Inn, 2020 Overland Ave. (I-90 exit 446; 406/655-1100), with double rates of $100 to $150.

Crowne Plaza Hotel Billings ★★ Declared the world’s tallest free-standing brick building by the Brick Institute of America, this 23-story tower is like a beacon in the heart of downtown—you can see it from just about everywhere. The rooms are stylish and chic, with comfortable beds, plush chairs, and the best views around, and the list of amenities is comprehensive. The hotel caters to the business traveler—there’s a 24-hour business center, rates are lowest on weekends, and the desks are huge—but it fits the bill for anyone who wants quick access to downtown. The restaurant on the 20th floor, Montana Sky, has great steaks and the best views in town. There is also a Starbucks off the lobby.

27 N. 27th St., Billings, MT 59101. www.crowneplaza.com. 800/588-7666 or 406/252-7400. Fax 406/252-2401. 289 units, including 3 suites. $149–$169 double; $500 suite; lower weekend rates. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; concierge; exercise room; room service; 2 saunas. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Dude Rancher Lodge Now on the National Register of Historic Places, the Dude Rancher has been offering real Western hospitality since it opened in 1949. Inside the weeping mortar walls, the rooms (which in turn surround an inner courtyard parking lot) are comfortable and quiet, with ranch oak furniture, cattle-brand carpeting, and king- and queen-size beds, or two doubles. Many have fridges and microwaves, so request one if you are in need. The motel’s downtown location puts you within easy walking distance of numerous restaurants, shopping, banks, the library, and the Alberta Bair Theatre.

415 N. 29th St., Billings, MT 59101. www.duderancherlodge.com. 800/221-3302 or 406/259-5561. 57 units. $65–$110 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge (in some), hair dryer, microwave (in some), Wi-Fi (free).

The Josephine Bed & Breakfast ★ The Josephine is housed in a 1912 Victorian built by a wealthy rancher to give his children access to schools in Billings. Named for a steamboat that once plied the waters of the Yellowstone River, the inn is located within walking distance of downtown, offering a quiet retreat amid Billings’s urban bustle. Owners Bobbi and Harvey Bybee have installed high-speed Internet access, and there’s a modern whirlpool tub in one room, but most rooms feature the classic claw-foot tubs familiar to Western movie buffs. The Captain’s Room offers a masculine feel, from the pipes on the night table (but don’t light one up; the entire inn is nonsmoking) to the four-poster bed. The other rooms have more feminine touches. There is a library, parlor, and dining room for breakfast, and a wraparound porch outside. Breakfasts are memorable: Harvey makes a terrific caramel-pecan French toast, and his sourdough pancakes aren’t bad at all.

514 N. 29th St., Billings, MT 59101. www.thejosephine.com. 800/552-5898 or 406/248-5898. 5 units. $95–$170 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. In room: A/C, TV, Wi-Fi (free).

Where to Eat

For breakfast and lunch, we like the McCormick Café, 2419 Montana Ave. ( 406/255-9555), and its offerings of eggs, crepes, sandwiches, pizza, and numerous vegetarian dishes. A classic drive-in known for its pork chop sandwiches and trademark UFO-shaped “flying burgers,” King’s Hat Drive-In, 105 S. 37th St. ( 406/259-4746), is open Tuesday through Saturday; credit cards are not accepted. New to downtown is the Soup Place, 106 N. Broadway ( 406/294-7687), which makes homemade soup (as well as sandwiches and soup-and-sandwich combos), with gumbo, Brunswick stew, and Cincinnati-style chili on the dinner menu.

Bistro Enzo ★ MEDITERRANEAN The diverse and creative menu at this high-ceilinged restaurant on Billings’s west side melds influences from not only the Mediterranean, but Asia and the Rockies as well: Entrees include Kobe burgers, Moroccan couscous, and Asian vegetarian pasta, as well as a rib-eye and good old macaroni and cream-Parmesan cheese. There is a seating area with booths and a bar on the main floor and a quieter upstairs loft. Homemade desserts include crème brûlée and a decadent chocolate popover with caramelized bananas and cappuccino cream. Beer and wine are available, but liquor is not.

1502 Rehberg Lane. www.bistroenzobillings.com. 406/651-0999. Main courses $12–$28. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 5–9pm.

Café de Camp ★★ AMERICAN Once you get past the somewhat dodgy industrial setting and step inside Café de Camp, you’ll find a small but homey dining room that’s filled with intentionally mismatched chairs and quirky furnishings. A member of Montana’s Western Sustainability Exchange, Café de Camp serves organic, locally-sourced food. The menu changes seasonally, but might include a variety of sweet and savory crepes (such as an Emu Carbonara crepe), sandwiches (like Strawberry Rhubarb Smoked Turkey Ciabatta), burgers (like the Real Montana Lamburger and the Local Bison Burger), and fish and meat entrees. For dessert, try the one-of-a-kind Pine Needle Marshmallow S’mores crepe, with home-made marshmallows, whiskey, Mexican Cacao truffles, and burnt graham cracker crumbs. The restaurant is planning to move to a new and much larger space on 2905 Montana Avenue in late-2012.

1404 6th Ave N. www.cafedecamp.com. 406/256-7285. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $9–$21. AE, MC, V. Tues–Sat 11am–2pm and 5:30–9pm. Closed Sun–Mon.

Juliano’s ★★ NEW AMERICAN One of the best restaurants in Montana, Juliano’s serves excellent, original food in a casually elegant atmosphere. It’s a little hard to categorize the food here. Chef Carl Kurokawa is a native of Hilo, Hawaii, and his menu is a fitting intersection between East and West. The menu changes monthly, but you can depend on it having the fresh Hawaiian fish that Kurokawa insists on flying in. For dinner, you might get locally raised lamb or Rocky Mountain elk, or maybe a beer-battered calamari steak. At lunch, there are salads—if you’re feeling adventurous, try the crispy chicken and grapefruit salad—plus sandwiches and pasta dishes. The building was originally the stable of the sandstone “castle” next door, built in 1902. A pressed-tin ceiling with Bacchus hoisting a glass covers one of the dining rooms, and there is an outdoor patio for nice days. There is an extensive wine list—call for the dates of special wine dinners.

2912 7th Ave. N. 406/248-6400. Reservations recommended. Lunch $8–$11; dinner main courses $23–$30. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm; Wed–Sat 5:30–9pm. Closed Mon Jan–Feb.

Montana Brewing Company ★ MICROBREWERY A bustling bar and grill, Billings’s downtown microbrewery has won a number of medals at the Great American Beer Fest, and it’s easy to taste why. Their beers, brewed in vats behind the dining room, include Fat Belly Amber Ale, Whitetail Wheat, and several seasonal beers; nine are always available on draft. The food is pretty good, too, including pizza, fish and chips, enchiladas, and a gamut of burgers and sandwiches—including bison burgers and a burger served on a pretzel bun. Despite the noisy bar area and adjacent casino, this is a pretty good place for families, and there’s a kids’ menu to boot.

113 N. Broadway. www.montanabrewing.com. 406/252-9200. Reservations accepted for large parties only. Main courses $7–$10. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm. Bar open later.

Q ★★ MEDITERRANEAN/CONTEMPORARY An anchor in the ongoing revitalization of Historic Montana Avenue, Q is sleek and hip, and feels more California than Montana. The room combines historic details—an original pressed-tin ceiling, for one—with contemporary design—suede wall panels, custom veneers, and striking yellow lamps. The menu meshes Mediterranean and Asian influences with a contemporary American slant: Entrees include pastas, steaks, salmon, and a few vegetarian dishes. The restaurant is attached to the Carlin Martini Bar and Nightclub, equally hip and serving a mean kamikaze martini.

2503 Montana Ave. www.qcuisine.com. 406/245-2503. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$28. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 4:30–10pm.

Walkers Grill ★★ AMERICAN BISTRO Longtime Billings stalwart Walkers moved into posh new digs in 2004, taking over the first floor of a new brick loft building in the heart of downtown. Featuring the work of 26 different artists, the space itself is a masterwork of contemporary Western design, marked by barbed-wire chandeliers, wheat-field-inspired carpeting, a host stand made from a hitching post, and a bar made from a cattle guard. The food is also excellent: The menu, which changes several times a year, offers a bit of the exotic (such as house-made salmon pastrami) along with plenty of creative interpretations of local standards. You might find buffalo osso bucco, an herb-crusted veal chop, or Thai peanut spaghetti. A tapas menu of gourmet pizzas, appetizers, and small versions of main courses is also served. The wine list is extensive, including many French wines—often difficult or impossible to find on the plains.

2700 1st Ave. N. www.walkersgrill.com. 406/245-9291. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$34; tapas $7–$14. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5–10pm. Tapas bar Mon–Fri 4–11pm; Sat–Sun 5–11pm.

Billings After Dark

Playing host to productions and live music of all kinds, the Alberta Bair Theater, Broadway and 3rd. Ave. (www.albertabairtheater.org; 877/321-2074 or 406/256-6052), is the prime performing arts venue in Billings, recently hosting Don McLean and a touring production of Young Frankenstein. The Rainbow Bar, 2403 Montana Ave. ( 406/259-0047), has a reputation for stiff drinks; other diversions include shuffleboard and live music. Hooligan’s, 109 N. Broadway ( 406/294-3495), is a good sports bar with an Irish theme. Beyond the Montana Brewing Company (see “Where to Eat,” above), there are three breweries with tasting rooms—Carter’s Brewery, 2526 Montana Ave., unit B (www.cartersbrewing.com; 406/252-0663); Yellowstone Valley Brewing Company, 2123-B 1st Ave. N., unit B (www.yellowstonevalleybrew.com; 406/245-0918); and Angry Hank’s, 2405 1st Ave. N. ( 406/252-3370)—within easy walking distance of one another. Nearby is Bones Brewing, with a pub and restaurant at 1425 Broadwater (www.bonesbrewing.com; 406/839-9231).

A Side Trip to Pompeys Pillar National Monument

A 150-foot-high sandstone butte 29 miles east of Billings holds the only concrete evidence left along the way of the famous journey of Lewis and Clark through the Louisiana Purchase. On July 25, 1806, Capt. William Clark carved his name and the date on the side of the rock. He noted in his famous journals for that day, “The nativs [sic] have ingraved [sic] on the face of this rock figures of animals & near which I marked my name and the day of the month and year.” Clark then walked to the top and described the panoramic view of the river and plains that can be captured from that vantage. Clark had to scramble up through the yucca and sagebrush, but visitors now are aided by stairways and enthusiastic and informative volunteer guides who will point out the historic sites and wildlife—from ant lions to eagles’ nests.

Halfway up a 120-foot stairway, Clark’s name is now locked under a protective glass cabinet, but many others have added their names. The pillar was originally called Pompy’s Tower by Clark, using the nickname he’d given the youngest member of their expedition, little Baptiste Charbonneau, the son of Sacajawea and Touissaint Charbonneau, the expedition guides. The boy traveled in Clark’s dugout, and the captain called him “my boy Pomp.” Continue up to the top of the stairway for incredible views and photo opportunities.

The monument, operated by the Bureau of Land Management, is open from Memorial Day to Labor Day, daily from 8am to 8pm; then into late September (and sometimes later, weather permitting) from 9am to 4pm; after that, you have to park a half-mile away and walk in. The fee is $7 per carload during the season, free at other times. The interactive multimedia exhibits at the modern visitor center are worth an hour of your time. There is also a film on Lewis and Clark regularly playing in the visitor center’s theater. For more information, call the visitor center ( 406/875-2400), or visit www.pompeyspillar.org. To get there, go 29 miles east of Billings to I-94 exit 23. The signage is somewhat confusing: Don’t turn right to go to the town of Pompeys Pillar; go straight over the bridge to Pompeys Pillar National Monument.

The Crow Reservation

54 miles E of Billings

The beautiful Crow Reservation—the Crow People call themselves the Apsáalooke, “Children of the Large-Beaked Bird”—encompasses over 9 million acres in southeastern Montana. It consists of seven main communities, of which Crow Agency, on I-90, is the hub of tribal management and government.

One of the main Indian Nation events of the summer-long powwow trail is Crow Fair, held here the third week in August. Powwows are social gatherings featuring traditional food, dress, and dances. Visitors are welcome at powwows, but flash photography is not allowed during contests, and you should always ask dancers for permission before taking their photographs. For more information, contact the Tribal Headquarters, P.O. Box 159, Crow Agency, MT 59022 ( 406/638-3700), or visit www.crow-fair.com.

The most famous historic site here is the Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument, a somewhat ironic inclusion on this reservation. The Crow scouted for Custer, and the Little Bighorn is the site of the cavalry’s most infamous defeat at the hands of the Indians.

A good place to learn about the Crow culture is at Chief Plenty Coups State Park (www.fwp.mt.gov; 406/252-1289). The tribe’s last traditional chief, Chief Plenty Coups, deeded his home and lands as a memorial to the Crow Nation, and the interpretive center houses many of the Crow leader’s personal items, plus interpretive displays about the Crow people. From Billings, drive about 25 miles south on Montana highways 416 and 418 to Pryor; then go a mile west, following signs. There are picnic facilities but no overnight camping. The grounds are open May through September daily from 8am to 8pm, and the visitor center is open from 10am to 5pm (by appointment in the off season). Admission is $5 per vehicle, $3 if you are walking or on a bicycle.

Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area

Fort Smith: 83 miles SE of Billings

Over eons, the Bighorn River carved a steep, sheer canyon out of the rolling plains of present-day southeastern Montana and into northwestern Wyoming. The construction of the Yellowtail Dam—named for Crow chairman Robert Yellowtail—near Fort Smith on the Crow Reservation, provides not only power and irrigation, but also marvelous recreational opportunities on and around 71-mile-long Bighorn Lake. Established on October 15, 1966, the Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area encompasses more than 120,000 acres and straddles the Montana–Wyoming border.

The lake and recreation area are remote and not easy to get to, requiring long drives on winding roads through small towns. The Wyoming and Montana portions of the recreation area are not connected by a road, although a boater can cruise easily up and down the reservoir. But it’s worth the effort to get here: Steep walls soar above the deep waters, and there’s superb water fun, some hiking, and tremendous photo opportunities.

Essentials

Access Points There are two portions of the recreation area and two different access points. On the Montana side, from Billings, exit I-90 at Hardin and follow Route 313 south to Fort Smith and Yellowtail Dam.

The Wyoming section is accessed about 3 miles east of Lovell. From I-90 north of Sheridan, head west on U.S. 14 and turn north on Wyo. 37. The route is well marked.

Fees The daily entrance fee is $5 per vehicle.

Visitor Information Contact Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, P.O. Box 7458, Fort Smith, MT 59035 (www.nps.gov/bica; 406/666-2412).

Bighorn Canyon has visitor centers with exhibits and a descriptive film in each of its sections. Near Lovell, Wyoming, the Cal S. Taggart Bighorn Canyon Visitors Center, 20 Hwy. 14A E., Lovell, WY 82431 ( 307/548-5406), is open daily from 8am to 6pm in the summer and from 8:30am to 4:30pm Thursday through Monday in the winter. The Yellowtail Dam Visitor Center ( 406/666-3218) in Montana is open 9am to 5pm daily from Memorial Day to Labor Day, as well as Saturday through Wednesday in early May and late September.

For additional information on the area, contact the Lovell Area Chamber of Commerce, 287 E. Main St., Lovell, WY 82431 (www.lovellchamber.com; 307/548-7552).

Regulations & Warnings The park has a number of black bears, which are not generally as dangerous to people as grizzlies but can cause problems when they learn that humans carry food. Therefore, never feed the bears, not only for your safety, but for theirs as well.

Getting Outside

Bighorn Canyon is primarily a flat-water recreation area with excellent boating and fishing, plus swimming, water-skiing, and scuba diving. There are limited hiking trails and scenic drives.

Fishing regulations are tricky in these parts since the Crow Reservation encompasses nearly all of the Montana portion of the canyon. A state fishing license from whichever state you’ll be fishing in is needed, and unless you are certain which it will be, it’s best to get both. The visitor center has information on limits, regulations, and fishing conditions.

On the Montana Side

A park ranger can help you find the Om-Ne-A Trail, which stretches for 3 steep miles one-way along the canyon rim. The Beaver Pond Trail is a short trip from the visitor center along Lime Kiln Creek.

On the Wyoming Side

The south side of the park offers some of the more sensational canyon views and is a prime viewing spot of some of the last wild horses to run free in North America. The Horseshoe Bend area, on Wyo. 37, has a full-service marina ( 307/548-7230), typically open from Memorial Day to Labor Day.

Leaving Horseshoe Bend, you’ll pass burgundy-colored hills and enter the Pryor Mountain National Wild Horse Range, which has been home to wild mustangs—the virtual emblem of the West, along with the buffalo—for more than a century. Sometimes you can catch a glimpse of a few from the road. If you want more information, there is a new Pryor Mountain Wild Mustang Center (www.pryormustangs.org; 307/548-9453) in Lovell. Just across the Montana border is the Devil Canyon Overlook, offering a view of the river as it winds through a steep canyon of gray limestone and orange shale.

At the end of the highway is Barry’s Landing, with a boat ramp and fishing access, and the focus for most of the recreational opportunities in the southern part of the park.

The self-guided Canyon Creek Nature Trail (.5 mile), which starts at Loop C of the campground at Horseshoe Bend, and the trail from Barry’s Landing to the campground at Medicine Creek (2 miles) are the only hikes on this side of the park.

Where to Stay

There are five park-service campgrounds in the recreation area; sites are free and first come, first served. Accommodations on the south side of the park are available in Lovell, 3 miles west of the intersection of Wyo. 37 and U.S. 14A (Alt. 14).

Forrester’s Bighorn River Resort ★ (www.forrester-travel.com; 800/665-3799 or 406/666-9199) is an outfitting company owned and run by former wildlife biologist Nick Forrester and his wife, Francine, a Manhattan-trained chef. There are seven rustic but very comfortable private cabins and a lodge with a massive river-rock fireplace in the living room, cigar loft, pro shop, and dining room where Francine serves meals to soothe weary fishermen. Located about a half-mile north of Fort Smith, the cabins sit on a bluff overlooking the Bighorn River. The Forresters offer hunting and fishing packages that include all meals and lodging, starting at about $600 per person, per day.

Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument

56 miles E of Billings

Perhaps there is no phrase in the English language that serves as a better metaphor for an untimely demise than “Custer’s Last Stand.” It was on this battlefield, on the dry, sloping prairies of southeastern Montana, that George Armstrong Custer met his end. Though the details of the actual battle that took place on June 25, 1876, are sketchy at best, much remains for the visitor to explore and ponder in this mysterious place. The Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument chronicles the history of this world-famous engagement, offering a coherent look at how the battle developed, where the members of Custer’s contingent died, and how it might have looked to the swarming warriors.

Essentials

Getting There The monument is located 56 miles east of Billings. Take I-94 east to I-90 south; just past Crow Agency, take exit 510 for U.S. 212. The battlefield is located a few hundred yards east.

Admission & Hours The park and visitor center are open daily 8am to 9pm from Memorial Day through July, 8am to 8pm from August through Labor Day, 8am to 6pm in spring and fall, and 8am to 4:30pm in winter. The visitor center is closed on Christmas, New Year’s Day, and Thanksgiving. Admission costs $10 per vehicle or $5 for those on foot or motorcycle.

Visitor Information At the visitor center just inside the park entrance, you’ll see actual uniforms worn by Custer, read about his life, and view an eerie reenactment of the battles on a small-scale replica of the battlefield. For advance information, contact the Superintendent, Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument, P.O. Box 39, Crow Agency, MT 59022-0039 (www.nps.gov/libi; 406/638-2621).

Touring the Monument It’s possible to view the site in less than a half-hour, but you’ll shortchange yourself with that approach. Instead, plan to spend enough time to explore the visitor center, listen to interpretive historical talks presented by rangers there, and then tour the site. You’ll leave with a greater appreciation for the monument and an understanding of the history that led up to the battle.

After stopping at the visitor center, drive 4 1/2 miles to the Reno–Benteen Monument Entrenchment Trail, at the end of the monument road, and double back. Interpretive signs at the top of this bluff show the route followed by the companies under Custer, Benteen, and Reno as they approached the area from the south, and the positions from which they defended themselves from their Indian foes.

As you proceed north along the ridge, you’ll pass Custer’s Lookout, the spot from which the general first viewed the Indian village. This was the spot where Custer sent for reinforcements, though he continued marching north.

Capt. Thomas Weir led his troops to Weir Point in hopes of assisting Custer but was immediately discovered by the Indian warriors and forced to retreat to the spot held by Reno.

The Medicine Trail Ford, on the ridge, overlooks a spot well below the bluffs in the Medicine Trail Coulee on the Little Bighorn River, where hundreds of warriors who had been sent from the Reno battle pushed across the river in pursuit of Custer and his army.

Farther north, the Cheyenne warrior Lame White Man led an attack up Calhoun Ridge against a company of the Seventh Cavalry that had charged downhill into the coulee. When Indian resistance overwhelmed the army, troops retreated back up the hill, where they were killed.

As you proceed to the north, you will find detailed descriptions of the events that occurred on the northernmost edges of the ridge, as well as white markers that indicate the places where army troops fell in battle. The bodies of Custer, his brothers Tom and Boston, and his nephew Autie Reed were found on Custer Hill.

Indian casualties during the rout are estimated at 60 to 100 warriors. Following the battle, which some say began early in the morning and ended within 2 hours, the Indians broke camp in haste and scattered to the north and south. Within a few short years, they were all confined to reservations.

The survivors of the Reno–Benteen armies buried the bodies of Custer and his slain army where they fell. In 1881, the graves that could be located were reopened, and the bones reinterred at the base of a memorial shaft found overlooking the battlefield. Custer’s remains were eventually reburied at the U.S. Military Academy at West Point in 1877.

The adjacent National Cemetery, established in 1879, incorporates a self-guided tour to some of the more significant figures buried there. In 2003, there was a dedication for a new Indian memorial, a sculpture garden dubbed “Peace Through Unity.” There are also three walking trails within the monument for visitors wishing to explore the battle in greater depth.

A Special Event The Hardin Area Chamber of Commerce, 10 E. Railway (www.thehardinchamber.org; 406/665-1672), sponsors Little Bighorn Days around June 25 each year (in town, not at the monument). The events include a reenactment of Custer’s Last Stand, parade, symposiums, and, of course, food. For information, visit www.custerslaststand.org.

Miles City ★

145 miles E of Billings; 70 miles SW of Glendive

Miles City gets its name from Col. Nelson A. Miles—the commander of the Fifth Cavalry who was ordered to return bands of Indians to reservations in the summer of 1876. As the world moves on around it, Miles City has retained its Western flair for more than a century. In the early days, as portrayed in Larry McMurtry’s novel Lonesome Dove, Miles City was a cowboy town on the verge of becoming a leading cattle market; the market came with the arrival of the Northern Pacific Railroad in 1881.

Today, Miles City maintains its cowboy traditions with its annual Bucking Horse Sale—which attracts rodeo stock contractors from all over the country—and the Range Riders Museum, a thorough collection of photographs and firearms from the old days. It’s where remote ranchers come when they need barbed wire or tractor axles, and still boasts a traditional Main Street with a saloon and lunch counter. Residents take an active pride in the town’s lack of parking meters—a vestige of its civility and small population.

Essentials

Getting There It’s an easy 145-mile drive on I-94 from Billings. Miles City’s Frank Wiley Field ( 406/234-1296) is serviced by Gulfstream International Airlines (www.flygia.com; 800/499-7450), with connecting flights to Billings.

Visitor Information The Miles City Area Chamber of Commerce, at 511 Pleasant St., Miles City, MT 59301 (www.milescitychamber.com; 406/234-2890), provides maps and guides to the town. Or get an area vacation guide from Custer Country (www.custercountry.com; 800/346-1876).

Getting Outside

There’s an attractive municipal swimming facility at the west end of Main Street.

Fishing & Boating

Miles City isn’t classic Montana fishing country, but there is plenty of access to the Yellowstone and Tongue rivers for walleye, sauger, catfish, crappie, and, occasionally, the unusual paddlefish (see “Paddlefishing,” later in this chapter). Fishing throughout the area is best in late spring and early fall. Twelve-Mile Dam, 11 miles south of Miles City on Mont. 59, then 1 mile south on Tongue River Road, has camping facilities, a boat launch, and a handicapped-accessible fishing platform.

Luring in floaters with Yellowstone River access, Pirogue Island State Park (www.fwp.mt.gov; 406/234-0926) is just north of Miles City. Go 1 mile north on Mont. 59, then 2 miles east on Kinsey Highway, then 2 miles south on an unnamed county road (look for a sign for the park). Stop by Red Rock Sporting Goods, 700 S. Haynes Ave. ( 406/232-2716), for gear and information.

The World-Famous Miles City bucking horse Sale

Since 1914, rodeo contractors—the men who supply the animals for the West’s rodeos—have been meeting in Miles City and lining up their stock. This gathering, which began as an informal event, has now become the “World-Famous Miles City Bucking Horse Sale,” held every third weekend in May. More than 200 horses are sold at auction, from untried stock to spoiled saddle horses. There are pari-mutuel horse races, a parade, a trade show, and rodeos, as well as wild-horse racing. The downtown area is virtually closed down at night, bands play on the streets, and beer is swilled and spilled while the city’s open-container ordinances are suspended inside the “people corral.” Tickets cost $12 to $17. For the current schedule, call the Miles City Area Chamber of Commerce ( 406/234-2890), or visit www.buckinghorsesale.com.

Golf

Miles City has the 9-hole Town and Country Club golf course (www.milescitytcc.com; 406/234-1500) running along the banks of the Tongue River southeast of town. It’s relatively short—3,280 yards. Greens fees are $16 to $21 for 9 holes; carts are $7 per rider.

Seeing the Sights

Custer County Art and Heritage Center ★★ The old city water plant, built between 1910 and 1924, has been reincarnated as an art-and-history museum, with one-time water tanks now filled with art. There are changing exhibits of traditional and contemporary art from the museum’s permanent collection, plus national and regional touring exhibits. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the museum building is actually an attraction itself. In 1979, it was awarded the governor’s trophy for best adaptation of a historic structure. The art center hosts an annual “Quick Draw” event on the third weekend in May and an art auction each year in late September.

Waterplant Rd. off W. Main St. (just west of town). www.ccac.milescity.org. 406/234-0635. Free admission. May–Sept Tues–Sun 9am–5pm; rest of year Tues–Sun 1–5pm.

Range Riders Museum ★ The amazing thing about this collection is its size—the Western memorabilia collection fills 11 buildings and includes a frontier town, an art gallery that includes the work of Charles Russell, and a gun collection of more than 400 firearms, including an elephant gun, all on the site once occupied by Fort Keogh. Items on display also include American-Indian artifacts and French sabers. There are 500 photos of local celebrities in the Wilson Photo Gallery, and a replica of Old Milestown—as the town was originally called—of 1877. Of particular interest are the excellent photos of Cheyenne tribal members taken in the 1890s.

U.S. 12 (on Main St., just west of town at I-94 exit 135). www.rangeridersmuseum.org. 406/232-6146. $5 adults, $4 seniors, $1 high school and college students, 50¢ elementary and middle school students, free for children 5 and under. Apr–Oct daily 8am–5pm. Closed Nov–Mar.

Where to Stay & Eat

There are several properties at I-94 exit 138 in Miles City. The Holiday Inn Express, 1720 S. Haynes Ave. ( 888/700-0402 or 406/234-1000), is a well-maintained facility with 52 units. There’s a pool and whirlpool; rooms have wireless Internet access, irons and boards, hair dryers, and coffeemakers. Rates are $99 to $139 double and include an expanded continental breakfast. The Best Western War Bonnet Inn, 1015 S. Haynes Ave. ( 800/528-1234 or 406/234-4560), has 54 units, including three suites with microwaves and refrigerators, plus there’s an indoor pool, hot tub, and sauna. Rates are $80 to $150 double. Open mid-April through October, the Miles City KOA Campground, 1 Palmer St., Miles City, MT 56301 ( 800/562-3909 or 406/232-3991), is shaded by more than 70 cottonwoods and has full RV hookups, tent sites, a pool, and a store. Campsite rates range from $22 to $39; basic cabins are $50.

For a small Montana town, Miles City offers several pretty good restaurants. The Stagecoach Station, 3020 Stower St. ( 406/234-2288), offers steak, seafood, great barbecue, and pasta (dinner items are in the $10–$20 range) with Old West hospitality and atmosphere to match—from the boot upholstery to “old Gabby” greeting you at the door. It’s open daily from 6:30am to 10pm (Fri–Sat until 11pm). For fine dining, visit Club 519, 519 Main St., on the second floor of the Professional Building ( 406/232-5133), a softly lit, quiet, comfortable restaurant serving very good steaks and seafood, with dinner prices in the $10-to-$30 range. It’s open daily from 5 to 10pm. For a vintage Montana diner and corresponding grub, look no farther than the 600 Cafe, 600 Main St. ( 406/234-3860), with hearty American standards for breakfast and lunch, a well-worn breakfast counter, and maroon booths. Menu items are $3 to $9.

Miles City After Dark

The cowboys in their dress hats come out after dark in Miles City, mostly in the bars. The historic Montana Bar ★, 612 Main St. ( 406/234-5809), has a Montana map for a sign, with Miles City marked by a check. Built in 1893, this is where stockmen gathered. It was enlarged and received a new facade in 1914, but has changed little since and is known as one of the most authentic Western bars in the state. It has a multicolored tile floor, an antique back bar, a pressed-tin ceiling, and a bullet hole in one leaded-glass panel. Patrons used to have to stand up to the bar and “drink like a man,” but bar stools have been added for the modern tippler.

Glendive

222 miles E of Billings; 196 miles W of Bismarck, North Dakota

A cattle town in the 1880s, Glendive has gradually become a farming community, producing mostly sugar beets and wheat. The city’s most curious attraction is paddlefishing—dropping a line in the Yellowstone River in hopes of hooking a prehistoric monster (the state record is 142 lb.).

Getting There It’s a 222-mile drive on I-94 from Billings, or you can fly Gulfstream International Airlines (www.flygia.com; 800/499-7450) to Dawson Community Airport (www.glendiveairport.com; 406/687-3372).

Visitor Information The Glendive Area Chamber of Commerce and Agriculture, 808 N. Merrill Ave., Glendive, MT 59330 (www.glendivechamber.com; 406/377-5601), provides brochures and maps.

Paddlefishing

Thousands of anglers come every year to try to snag one of these prehistoric spoonbill sturgeons from the bottom of the Yellowstone River. The season is from May 15 to whenever the annual quota is met or June 30, whichever comes first, and the best fishing spot is at the intake diversion dam on the Yellowstone, 17 miles northeast of town on Mont. 16. Thought to be extinct until an angler snagged one here in 1962, these monsters (adults generally weigh 60–120 lb.) are “snagged”—caught on treble hooks dragged along the bottom of the river—and the limit is one fish per fisherman. Interestingly, local nonprofits accept paddlefish roe as a donation, and they sell the caviar to raise funds. You’ll need both a Montana fishing license and a special tag, which several places in town sell; a concessionaire rents poles and lures. Call the chamber ( 406/377-5601) for additional information.

Makoshika State Park

Montana’s largest state park, at 11,531 acres, Makoshika State Park ★★ (www.fwp.mt.gov; 406/377-6256) is a few blocks from town via the railroad underpass. The name is Lakota and means “bad earth” or “bad land.” Erosion has done wonders with the park’s upper and most malleable layer, forming magnificent spires in some places and coulees that cut deep into the multicolored valleys in others. Ponderosa pine trees are scattered over much of the park. The amazing thing about this state park is not necessarily the uncanny resemblance to Badlands National Park in South Dakota, but the abundance of dinosaur bones that have been removed from under the loess. Among the exhibits in the visitor center is the actual skull—not a replica or cast—from a young triceratops uncovered in the park. For more on the region’s prehistory, pay a visit to the Makoshika Dinosaur Museum, 111 W. Bell St. in downtown Glendive (www.makoshika.com; 406/377-1637). Admission is $5 adults, $3 students and seniors, and free for kids 5 and under.

A paved road—steep and narrow even by Montana mountain standards—winds about 4 miles to an overlook that provides a wonderful view of the badlands. From there, the road becomes gravel and continues for another 3 1/2 miles before maintenance ends. There are also 5 miles of hiking trails (with 10 more to come at some point), along with a number of off-trail backpacking routes. The visitor center (daily 10am–6pm Memorial Day to Labor Day; Mon–Sat 9am–5pm the rest of the year) has a fine display of the history, prehistory, and geology of the park. There is also a “folf,” or Frisbee golf, course and several hiking trails. The day-use fee is $5 per vehicle; campsites are $20 to $23 for nonresidents.

Where to Stay & Eat

Lodging here includes the historic Glendive Inn, 222 N. Kendrick Ave. ( 406/377-5555), with rates of $88 to $95 double; and Super 8, 1904 N. Merrill Ave. ( 406/365-5671), which charges $40 to $60 double. For lunch or dinner, we like the family-friendly beer-and-pizza joint, the Gust Hauf, 300 W. Bell St. ( 406/365-4451), featuring a video arcade and casino and a big kitschy beer stein out front.

Charley Montana Bed & Breakfast ★★ An impeccable restoration of a majestic neoclassical mansion, Charley Montana is a top-flight B&B in what was once the palatial, 26-room abode of rancher Charles Krug. Built in 1906, the house has been restored to its original condition, with impeccable attention to the woodwork inside and out. The five guest rooms include the Charles Room, the old master bedroom with the leather-bound encyclopedia from the Krug family library, as well as the Annie Suite, named for Krug’s wife, with an impressive wardrobe and separate sitting area with heirloom armchairs. The 8,000-square-foot inn is located on the outskirts of downtown Glendive, cater-cornered to an old silo and a stone’s throw from the old Bell Street Bridge across the Yellowstone River, now reserved for pedestrians and bicyclists.

103 N. Douglas St. (P.O. Box 1192), Glendive, MT 59930. www.charley-montana.com. 888/395-3207 or 406/365-3207. 5 units. $105–$120 double; $145 suite. Rates include full breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

A Side Trip to Fort Union

Strictly speaking, the Fort Union Trading Post National Historic Site is in North Dakota. The Montana–North Dakota border bisects the parking lot, and the fort itself is a few paces east. But Fort Union was so important to Montana’s development that it should be part of any trip through the eastern part of the state.

For 30 years after 1828, Fort Union was the edge of the frontier—the most important trading post in John Jacob Astor’s beaver-pelt-and-buffalo-robe empire in the Northern Plains. This National Park Service site has been spectacularly reconstructed from pictures and descriptions. The main gate of the glistening, whitewashed wooden stockade overlooks the wide Missouri, and two tall stone bastions stand sentinel over the river at the fort’s corners.

Lewis and Clark camped near here on their trip to the Pacific, on April 25 and 26, 1805. Lewis commented in his journals on the “wide and fertile vallies” and how ideal the site would be for a fort. The Bourgeois House has been converted into a modern visitor center and contains excellent exhibits detailing the life and times of the fur traders. Artist George Catlin visited in 1832, as did Karl Bodmer in 1833 and John James Audubon in 1843. In 1867, the U.S. Army acquired the fort, and its lumber was used to expand nearby Fort Buford and fuel steamboats.

Getting There & Visitor Information From I-94 exit 213 at Glendive, take Mont. 16 northeast to the North Dakota border, then North Dakota 58 north to the fort (it’s about 75 miles). Contact Fort Union Trading Post National Historic Site, 15550 N. Dak. 1804, Williston, ND 58801 (www.nps.gov/fous; 701/572-9083 or 701/572-7622). Admission is free, and the park is open daily from 8am to 8pm during the summer and 9am to 5:30pm in winter. While the site is located in two time zones, it observes Central Standard Time, running an hour later than Montana.