Chapter 15: Southern Wyoming

Southern Wyoming has long been less a destination than a land passed through. All of the famous transcontinental trails—the Bozeman, the California, the Emigrant, the Mormon, the Overland, and the Pony Express—lead somewhere else. Even today, if you stand on a hill just outside the state capital of Cheyenne, where two major interstates intersect, you’ll see a cluster of mega–gas stations crowded with RVs, autos, and big-rig trucks, fueling up before speeding east or west.

In the middle of the 19th century, nearly a half-million people passed through Wyoming on the Oregon Trail. They paused at Independence Rock only long enough to rest and to carve their names in the stone (it’s still there—west of Casper on Wyo. 220). This cross-state journey, which can now be done in less than a day, took a month in the 1840s. Along this route, travelers left wagon tracks, cast-iron stoves, worn-out boots, crippled livestock, and their dead. It was no easy passage: On average, they dug 10 graves for every mile of trail.

By 1868, the railroad had forged across the plains, following the more southerly route of the Overland Stages. The arrival of the railroad brought shantytowns of gambling tents, saloons, and brothels, known as “Hell on Wheels.” Left behind as the rails moved on, the makeshift towns collapsed, and a cycle of booms and busts began. New discoveries of coal, oil, gold, or uranium would spur a revival, followed by another bust.

Today that legacy colors the character of towns along I-80, which follows the same path used by the first transcontinental railroad. A new generation of miners dig coal and trona (a mineral used in cleaning agents) and keep the oil and natural gas flowing. Mineral money builds sparkling new schools and government buildings, but there is still a rough-and-ready quality to the downtown districts.

But unlike the old days, the communities now have a better grip on the landscape. Cheyenne is the state capital, home to thousands of government workers. The holdovers from the ranching families that once dominated the area come out in force every year for Frontier Days, a rodeo extravaganza known the world over. West over the pass in Laramie, the University of Wyoming is the state’s cultural and intellectual nexus. From Laramie west, I-80 climbs around Elk Mountain and races across the high desert—an expansive (some might say bleak) view from behind the windshield, and a sometimes-harrowing drive during winter blizzards.

Cross-country travelers often miss the unexpected beauty in this land because they steadfastly stick to the interstate instead of the two-lane roads that lead to chalk buttes and rust-colored mesas. Take an off-ramp and head north among the stirring buttes of the Red Desert, read the ancient archaeological record at Fossil Butte, hike the mountain cirque of the Snowy Range, or dip in the clear waters of Flaming Gorge. On summer afternoons, the dry air turns humid, the sky blackens, and lightning dances on the red rims. When the sun breaks again, the cliffs burn copper.

Scenic Drives

Southern Wyoming

I-80 runs the length of southern Wyoming along the same path followed by the first transcontinental railroad: straight, fast, convenient, but not often scenic. To the curious eye, though, there are interesting sights along the way.

Geology buffs will be interested in the road cuts made by the interstate—eons of geologic history are revealed. Historians will appreciate the remnants left more than a century ago: Take exit 272, 41 miles west of Laramie, and visit Little Arlington, where you’ll find what’s left of an old stage station and a log cabin, back in the trees. Here along the interstate you’ll also see one of Wyoming’s latest contributions to the nation’s energy pool: a wind farm of spinning propellers lining the ridges like an infantry on stilts.

But to break the monotony of the long drive across southern Wyoming, you need to take a loop off the interstate. There’s plenty of great scenery out there, including the landscapes you’ll see on the following trips. Many of the sights mentioned here are discussed in further detail later in this chapter.

Driving Tour 1: The Snowy Range Scenic Byway: Laramie to Saratoga

The Snowy Range Road (Wyo. 130), designated the nation’s second scenic byway, twists up and over the Medicine Bow Mountains south of I-80 and west of Laramie, through corridors of pines and between snow banks (even in midsummer), and tops Snowy Range Pass at 10,847 feet. During the winter, heavy snows close the pass, but you can reach a ski area (both Alpine and Nordic) on the Laramie side, 6 miles past Centennial.

To reach the Snowy Range Scenic Byway from Laramie, take exit 311 off I-80 and head west along Snowy Range Road. Once past the little town of Centennial, the road switchbacks uphill at a steep grade. As you top the pass, you’ll see sharp granite peaks to the north, often skirted by snow, bordering a group of snowmelt-fed lakes. This is the top of the range, with elevations more than 12,000 feet above sea level. On a summer day, you’ll have plenty of company at the turnouts—people stopping to look, to fish, to hike a nature trail, to picnic. Half a day of vigorous hiking (if you’re adjusted to the altitude) will get you atop Medicine Bow Peak, the highest summit in the range. The road then descends the east side of the range, following French Creek to the Upper North Platte River (known as the Miracle Mile), which is popular with anglers. When you come to a T in the road, turn right on Wyo. 130 and drive 8 miles north to Saratoga, a friendly little town where many boats are launched to fish the excellent waters of the Platte. Continue north from here to rejoin I-80 at Walcott.

Finish the Loop: A Different Way Back to Laramie You can return on I-80 to Laramie, or take a more adventurous route by going north from Walcott on U.S. 30/287 toward Medicine Bow. This road follows the rail line and, as such, bypasses the mountains—in the winter, it’s often a better route than the interstate. The landscape is sagebrush plains and hills, where antelope roam. Every 20 miles or so, you’ll hit a crumbling town. One community with a little life still left in it is Medicine Bow, location of the Virginian Hotel (another model for Owen Wister’s The Virginian) and of a watering hole with character, the Diplodocus Bar. Take a look at the bar itself—a solid slab of Wyoming jade, 40 feet long. Some of the great historic dinosaur discoveries were made in this area, at nearby Como Bluff. Continue east to finish the loop in Laramie.

Driving Tour 2: The Rivers Road & Highway 70: Laramie to Baggs

This scenic drive goes from Laramie to the town of Baggs along Wyo. 230 and a recently completed stretch of Wyo. 70. Wyo. 230 (also known as “the Rivers Rd.”) winds its way southwest from Laramie along the Laramie River to the town of Mountain Home, where the road dips south into Colorado. Here it makes a loop along Colo. 127/125 for 18 miles and reenters the state of Wyoming on the other side of the Medicine Bow Mountains. The route then continues northwest along Wyo. 230 to the old logging town of Encampment. This last portion offers beautiful river scenery with aspen and lodgepole pines, and opportunities for trout fishing. From Encampment, take Wyo. 70 west to Baggs across 58 miles of Carbon County land in the Sierra Madre Mountain Range. Because of the altitude, views can stretch for miles around this virtually uninhabited belt of southern Wyoming. But the altitude also causes road closures in the winter. Wyo. 70 climbs to 9,955 feet to Battle Pass, named for a nearby conflict that took place in 1841. Here it crosses the Continental Divide before descending to the small towns of Savery, Dixon, and Baggs, a trio of hamlets with a combined population of fewer than 500. Early settlers came to the area in search of gold and silver. The history of Baggs also includes a different kind of business: Outlaw Butch Cassidy pulled off several robberies here, and quick-triggered livestock detective Tom Horn frequented the area during the late 1800s.

At Baggs, turn north off Wyo. 70 onto Wyo. 789, then drive north for 51 miles through high-plains ranching country. At Creston Junction, you’ll rejoin I-80. From here, you can either drive west to Rock Springs and the Utah border or return east to Laramie. You won’t have traveled as far as you think, but you’ll have seen a lot more along this route than you would have staring at the back of an 18-wheeler along the interstate.

Cheyenne

93 miles N of Denver; 180 miles S of Casper

Cheyenne

Cheyenne is located in the southeast corner of the state. Legend has it that when Gen. Grenville M. Dodge’s surveying crew trudged across the prairie, picking a route for the transcontinental railroad, night came, they were tired, they stopped and said, “Good as any,” and thus was born the present site of Cheyenne.

By horse or by highway, you can’t miss Cheyenne, not only the largest city in Wyoming (population: 60,000), but also its capital. Visitors enjoy the many historical and political sights, from the Capitol Building to the Historic Governors’ Mansion. But Cheyenne’s biggest event, hands down, is that wild and woolly weeklong cowboy extravaganza, Cheyenne Frontier Days.

Essentials

Getting There American, United, Great Lakes, and Frontier fly daily into the Cheyenne Regional Airport (www.cheyenneairport.com; 307/634-7071) on East 8th Avenue, but most people choose to fly directly in and out of Denver International Airport (www.flydenver.com; 303/342-2000), 101 miles south of Cheyenne in Colorado on I-25, and rent a car to drive into Wyoming from there.

By bus, you can get here with Greyhound (www.greyhound.com; 800/231-2222). The bus depot ( 307/635-1327) is at 5401 Walker Rd.

To get to Cheyenne from Casper, take I-25 south for 180 miles. From Rock Springs in the southwest part of the state, take I-80 east for 258 miles.

Visitor Information Visit Cheyenne in the lovingly restored Cheyenne Depot, 1 Depot Square, 121 W. 15th St., Ste. 200 (www.cheyenne.org; 800/426-5009 outside Wyoming, or 307/778-3133), has a variety of brochures and local maps, including the “Cheyenne Historic Downtown Walking Tour” and the “Downtown Cheyenne Map.” Just outside of town, you can also get information at the Wyoming Information Center, operated by the Wyoming Division of Tourism, located just off I-25 at College Drive.

Getting Around Avis ( 800/331-1212), Enterprise ( 800/261-7331), and Hertz ( 800/654-3131) have airport counters. For a taxi, call Capital City Cab ( 307/632-8294). Expect to pay about $10 for a ride from the airport to downtown.

Cheyenne Frontier Days ★★

In the world of rodeo, there are three must-see classics: the Pendleton Round-up, the Calgary Stampede, and the “Daddy of ’em All,” Cheyenne Frontier Days. Since the inaugural event in 1897, it has grown into one of the largest rodeos in the world. The Frontier Days committee and thousands of volunteers organize this 10-day-long Western spectacle of parades, a rodeo, dances, and concerts each summer, the last full week of July. It’s safe to say that this is the most vivid demonstration of Western hospitality you’ll encounter in the modern world.

Though the rodeo lasts for a full 10 days, picking and choosing activities carefully can save you a lot of time and money. Rodeo ticket prices range anywhere from around $12 to $40 per person, and nightly shows featuring popular country music acts cost $23 to $60.

Visitor Information Contact the Cheyenne Frontier Days Ticket Office for brochures, ticket forms, and information on all shows and activities during upcoming Frontier Days celebrations at Cheyenne Frontier Days, P.O. Box 2477, Cheyenne, WY 82003 (www.cfdrodeo.com; 800/227-6336 or 307/778-7222 for tickets, or 307/778-7200 for headquarters).

Getting Around During the Rodeo Celebration Parking is provided at Frontier Park for $10 per vehicle, but shuttle parking is also available and makes much more sense. The shuttle picks up visitors at several locations and delivers them to the rodeo grounds; round-trip fare is $10 per carload. The city also runs a special bus service to Frontier Park from downtown Cheyenne that stops at nearby campgrounds and hotels. Contact Visit Cheyenne ( 307/778-3133) for bus stop locations and scheduled pickups.

The Grand Parade With the exception of Buffalo Bill’s walk through the streets of Cheyenne in 1898 and a docile march led by Theodore Roosevelt in 1910, Cheyenne’s Frontier Days Grand Parade in its early days was similar to a stagecoach holdup. Guns blazed as cowboys rode through the streets with little regard to form or style. In 1925, things took a turn toward civility when the “Evolution of Transportation” theme was introduced. Today, many horse-drawn vehicles make their way through the streets of Cheyenne as part of the Old-Time Carriage section of the parade. In addition to the carriages and antique cars, marching bands, local clubs, and various Plains Indians groups march. Viewing sites are as near as the closest curb, but you’ll want to claim a position 45 minutes before the start.

The parade starts at Capitol Ave. and 24th St., runs down Capitol Ave. to 17th Ave., and continues up Carey Ave. to the finish at Carey Ave. and 24th St. Free admission. During Frontier Days, parades are Sat, Tues, Thurs, and Sat, starting at 9:30am.

The Rodeo An anthropologist might see rodeo as a fading ritual to a passing way of life, but don’t tell that to the fans who pack the stands at Frontier Days. It’s actually one of the most popular spectator sports in the nation, as American as apple pie and baseball. Cheyenne’s annual rodeo draws people from across the nation, and the best of the best cowboys.

Spectators from around the world pack into the stands to watch such events as steer wrestling, barrel racing, team roping, and the classic event—and Wyoming’s state symbol—saddle bronc riding. It’s enormous fun, but part of the attraction is that these men and women put themselves in harm’s way, working enormous animals with a wild streak. In a world where risk is often an illusion created by entertainers, this is the real thing. Champion bull-rider Lane Frost died in the ring at Frontier Days in 1989.

Daily ticket prices start at $16 for bleachers at the far end of the arena and $30 for the center of the action—the bucking chutes. Bull riding tickets cost more, from about $30 to $40. Each night after the rodeo, country stars take the stage. Concert tickets run $23 to $60.

Frontier Park, exit 12 off I-80. 800/227-6336 or 307/778-7222. Tickets $12–$24. During Frontier Days, daily at 12:45pm.

The Pancake Breakfast Since their inception in 1952, these free breakfasts have become increasingly popular. Legend holds that a cement mixer churns up enough pancake batter to cook 100,000 flapjacks for 30,000 people. The breakfasts are held downtown at the Cheyenne Depot Plaza on the corner of Lincolnway and Capitol and served by the local Kiwanis Club, including, sometimes, an unassuming governor.

Depot Plaza, Lincolnway and Capitol. Free admission. During Frontier Days, Mon, Wed, and Fri 7–9am.

Shopping

The can’t-miss retailers in Cheyenne are Sierra Trading Post, 5025 Campstool Rd. ( 307/775-8090), for outdoor gear and close-outs of all kinds; the Wrangler, 1518 Capitol Ave. at Lincolnway ( 307/634-3048), for cowboy boots and Western duds; and Wyoming Home, 216 W. Lincolnway ( 307/638-2222), for Western furnishings and decor. Housed in the historic Whipple House, Deselms Fine Art, 300 E. 17th St. ( 307/432-0606), is the city’s top art gallery, featuring the work of largely local artists.

Seeing the Sights

Stop in at the Nelson Museum of the West, 1714 Carey Ave. (www.nelsonmuseum.com; 307/635-7670), to see a collection of cowboy trappings, American-Indian artifacts, taxidermy trophies, and Western memorabilia. The Cheyenne Botanic Gardens, 710 S. Lions Park Dr. (www.botanic.org; 307/637-6458), is a showcase of lush flower beds. The gardens are home to the Paul Smith Children’s Village ★, a first-rate kid’s garden complete with a wide range of interactive exhibits. Visit Cheyenne ( 307/778-3133) has developed free audio tours for numerous attractions in the city delivered via cellphone; contact them for information. Also call Visit Cheyenne for the latest schedule of Cheyenne Gunslingers, who put on fun shootouts downtown during the summer months.

Cheyenne Depot Museum ★ This good museum details Cheyenne’s beginnings as a dusty railroad town and tells the story of how rails shaped this part of the West. Exhibits include fascinating historical photographs, models, and the original cargo scales used when the depot was active (late 1800s–1980s). The Union Pacific Depot was restored to its original condition and is worth visiting even if you’re not a railroad buff—but if you are, start here and then pick up the brochure “Tracking Trains in Cheyenne” from the information center in the depot lobby: It’s a great resource for trainiacs, covering historic rail landmarks and the best places to gawk at the real thing. There are occasional excursions on a historic steam train; call for the current schedule.

121 W. 15th St., in the Union Pacific Depot. www.cheyennedepotmuseum.org. 307/632-3905. $5 adults, free for children 12 and under. May–Sept Mon–Fri 9am–6pm, Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 11am–5pm; Oct–Apr Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 11am–4pm.

Cheyenne Frontier Days Old West Museum Frontier Days has been around long enough that folks have become interested in its history, so sponsors established this museum to warehouse memorabilia from the rodeo and other historical artifacts. The Old West Museum, located next door to the rodeo arena, is a convenient place to take a break from the action. There are carriages, temporary exhibits, photos, a video-screening room, and a treasure trove of rodeo gear.

4610 N. Carey Ave., Frontier Park. www.oldwestmuseum.org. 307/778-7290. $7 adults, free for children 12 and under. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm; Sat–Sun 10am–5pm; longer hours during Frontier Days and peak summer season.

Cheyenne Street Railway Trolley No longer used as a mode of mass transit, the local trolley offers visitors a ride around Cheyenne’s main tourist sites, including the Governors’ Mansion, the Wyoming State Capitol, and the historic homes of the area’s late-19th-century cattle barons.

Purchase tickets at the Cheyenne Area Convention and Visitors Bureau in the Cheyenne Depot, 121 W. 15th St. www.cheyennetrolley.com. 800/426-5009 or 307/778-3133. Tour $10 adults, $5 children 4–12, free for kids 3 and under. May to mid-Sept 2-hr. tours Mon–Fri 10 and 11:30am, and 1, 2:30, and 4pm; Sat 10am and 1:30pm; Sun 1:30pm.

Historic Governors’ Mansion If you’re interested in the political history of the state, you should continue 6 blocks from the capitol to the Historic Governors’ Mansion. Built in 1904, it housed Wyoming’s first families until 1976; today, many of the rooms have been restored to their 1905 appearances. Over the years, the decorative styles mixed, and you’ll find everything from Chippendale to Colonial Revival to Art Nouveau. There’s even a steer-horn chair in the entrance hall.

300 E. 21st St. http://wyoparks.state.wy.us. 307/777-7878. Free admission. Summer Mon–Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 1–5pm; winter Tues–Sat 9am–5pm.

Wyoming State Capitol In the summer, when the streets of Cheyenne are shaded by large old oaks, it’s easy to come upon the Capitol building a bit by surprise. It’s not a large Capitol, as such things go, but it’s a traditional one, with a gold-leaf dome and carved stone. The main structure was built in 1888; the wings were added in 1917, but otherwise, the stately building has undergone little change over the years. Inside you can admire the beautiful woodwork, stained glass, and sparkling marble floors, and view historical photos and exhibits on the state’s wildlife. Outside, you can stop by three statues: a monument to the first female justice of the peace, Esther Hobart Morris; a bronze bison; and the Spirit of Wyoming—the wild bucking horse emblazoned on every license plate in the state.

Capitol Ave. at 24th St. 307/777-7220. Free admission. Self-guided tours Mon–Fri 8:30am–4:30pm, except holidays. Guided tours available by appointment.

Where to Stay

Thanks to its crossroads location, there’s a plethora of accommodations in Cheyenne, from basic motels to ornate B&Bs. The chain properties include the family-friendly Days Inn, 2360 W. Lincolnway ( 307/778-8877), with double rates of $89 to $149 ($200 and up during Frontier Days); Hampton Inn, adjacent to the junction of I-25 and I-80, at 1781 Fleischli Pkwy. ( 307/632-2747), offering double rates of $119 to $159 ($199 and up during Frontier Days); and Motel 6, 1735 Westland Rd. ( 307/635-6806), with double rates of $50 to $60 ($110–$130 during Frontier Days).

A reservation caution: Hotels fill up quickly during Frontier Days, and rack (published) rates are much higher.

Little America Hotel and Resort ★ Tucked into 1,200 acres of prairie on the outskirts of Cheyenne, this is one of the largest hotels in Wyoming and a noteworthy oasis. Surprisingly chic, the main building and low-rise brick lodges are surrounded by an executive golf course, duck pond, and mature evergreens. The main building harbors a tasteful lounge warmed by a fireplace and Navajo rugs; shops offer boutique clothing, jewelry, and Western souvenirs; there’s a stuffed penguin, the hotel’s unofficial mascot, in the hall. Accommodations, in five low-rise brick lodges, provide 37-inch flatscreen TVs, balconies, and bathrooms with tub/shower combos and marble counters. Rooms come in three categories: standards, minisuites with king-size beds, and executive suites. Dinner is available in Hathaway’s, and there is also a coffee shop. The Olympic-size pool is open summer only, but a fitness center and jogging path can be used year-round.

2800 W. Lincolnway (I-80 at I-25), Cheyenne, WY 82009. www.cheyenne.littleamerica.com. 800/445-6945 or 307/775-8400. Fax 307/775-8425. 188 units. $109–$199 double; during Frontier Days $229–$289 double. AE, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants; lounge; exercise room; 9-hole golf course; outdoor heated pool. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Nagle Warren Mansion Bed & Breakfast ★★ This gem of an inn is the centerpiece of an increasingly nice stretch on 17th Avenue. Originally built in 1888 by famed architect Erasmus Nagle (it was the first house in the state with indoor plumbing), the mansion was converted into an elegant bed-and-breakfast in 1997. Grand and spacious, the three-story structure oozes luxury, from the furnishings (almost exclusively regional antiques) to the stately spire that anchors the building’s southeast corner. The rooms, named after the mansion’s former residents, feature lavish, late-19th-century style, tempered by a few modern perks—CD players, televisions, and telephones. Half of the rooms are located in the main building, and half are in the adjoining carriage house (the latter have fireplaces), but they all have their own unique allure.

222 E. 17th St., Cheyenne, WY 82001. www.naglewarrenmansion.com. 800/811-2610 or 307/637-3333. 12 units. $142–$172 double; during Frontier Days $294–$324 double. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Pets accepted. Amenities: Lounge; exercise room. In room: A/C, TV/DVD, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

The Plains Hotel ★ Built in 1911, the stalwart Plains Hotel is once again the historic centerpiece of downtown Cheyenne. Under a stained-glass ceiling, the lobby is a multipillared space with its original tile floor and a retouched mural on the walls ringing the ceiling. Rooms run the gamut from standard (with a king-size bed or one or two queen-size), to larger parlor suites (a king-size or two queen-size), to true two-room suites, one of which is done up in high cowboy style, thanks to the help of American Cowboy magazine. The rooms, on the whole, are comfortable and attractive, with a subtle Western motif, with bathrooms that vary in terms of amenities and quality—some are a bit old, some have showers only, and others feature the vanities in the rooms. The elevators are also quite dinky: As the story goes, they built them that way so people couldn’t take their horses up to their rooms.

1600 Central Ave., Cheyenne, WY 82001. www.theplainshotel.com. 866/275-2467 or 307/638-3311. Fax 307/635-2022. 131 units, including 17 suites. $79–$129 double, $129–$219 suite; during Frontier Days $199–$299 double, $249–$299 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; exercise room; spa. In room: TV, hair dryer, Wi-Fi (free).

Camping

The biggest campground is the Restway Travel Park, 4212 Whitney Rd., 2 miles east of Cheyenne ( 800/443-2751 or 307/634-3811). Catering to RV and tent campers alike, Restway boasts a heated seasonal swimming pool, miniature golf, and a store stocked with basic supplies; nightly rates run from about $20 for a basic tent site to about $40 for a site with full hookups during Frontier Days. For something a bit different, head to Terry Bison Ranch, located 6 miles south of Cheyenne via I-25, exit 2 (www.terrybisonranch.com; 307/634-4171), a working buffalo ranch with tent ($22 per night, $25 during Cheyenne Frontier Days) and RV sites ($36 per night, $45 during Cheyenne Frontier Days), as well as a bunkhouse, guest cabins, gift shop, and restaurant. The ranch also offers cabins, lodge rooms, and a variety of tours.

Where to Eat

On 17th Street between Carey and Warren avenues, there is a restaurant row that will satisfy most appetites. Here you’ll find 2 Doors Down, 118 E. 17th St. (www.2doorsdown.net; 307/634-6008), serving burgers topped with everything from green chile to horseradish to teriyaki sauce. Sanford’s Grub & Pub, 115 E. 17th St. (www.thegrubandpub.com; 307/643-3381), is a bar and grill with steaks, ribs, fajitas and personality to spare. For pizza and pasta, head to Pizzeria Venti, 112 E. 17th St. ( 307/433-1020). Two blocks down, Re-O-Na Sushi & Thai Cuisine, 112 W. 17th St. ( 307/638-8820), is another gem.

Luxury Diner AMERICAN A favorite blue-collar breakfast counter, the Luxury Diner is a real down-home greasy spoon. We say that affectionately, of course; the food is good, the coffee always hot, and the waitresses sassy. Breakfast is served all day. The pie: apple. The special: meatloaf. It’s the real thing—no Buddy Holly posters, no 45s dangling from the ceiling for that retro look. In fact, the small dining area ran as a trolley from 1896 to 1912 before becoming a diner in 1926. Pictures of trains cover the walls, Christmas lights blink around the trim, breakfast is served all day, and the motto is, “Friendliest place in town.” It’s right.

1401-A W. Lincolnway. 307/638-8971. Breakfast and lunch main courses $4–$14. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 6am–4pm.

Poor Richard’s ★★ STEAKS/AMERICAN The locals’ choice for a nice dinner, Poor Richard’s has been serving excellent steaks, seafood, chicken, and pasta dishes since opening its doors in 1977. I recommend the blackened prime rib, but all steaks are USDA Choice Beef, aged for 4 weeks and cut fresh daily. Lunches are lighter, but include several pasta and seafood dishes beyond the sandwiches and burgers that dominate other Cheyenne eateries. The staff is efficient and sharp, working several rooms that feature stained glass, wood-backed booths, and an ambience midway between romantic and casual. This winning combination—plus the subtle Benjamin Franklin motif—attracts everyone from politicians to ranch hands.

2231 E. Lincolnway. www.poorrichardscheyenne.com. 307/635-5114. Reservations accepted for parties of 6 or more only. Lunch $8–$13; dinner $13–$27. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–2:30pm; Mon–Thurs 5–9pm; Fri–Sat 5–10pm.

Cheyenne After Dark

The Atlas Theatre, 211 W. Lincolnway ( 307/635-0199), is Cheyenne’s prime performing arts venue, home to the Cheyenne Little Theatre Players (www.cheyennelittletheatre.org; 307/638-6543), mounting recent productions of Messiah on the Frigidaire and Annie Get Your Gun. The hippest watering hole in town is Shadows Pub & Grill, 115 W. 15th St., in the Union Pacific Depot ( 307/634-7625), a sports bar/microbrewery that serves good barbecue and other pub fare. Free concerts are staged in front of the depot on summer Friday evenings. Bit-O-Wyo Ranch puts on a barn dinner show on summer weekends about 20 miles west of Cheyenne at 470 Happy Jack Rd. (www.bitowyoranch.com; 307/638-6924); the price is $40 per person ages 6 and over.

Laramie ★

49 miles NW of Cheyenne; 360 miles SE of Yellowstone/Grand Teton; 207 miles E of Rock Springs; 124 miles N of Denver

Laramie

Though the political capital is 49 miles to the east, Laramie is the cultural and intellectual capital of Wyoming. It’s home to the state’s only university, public or private. Unlike Jackson, which has a prefabricated feel designed to appeal to visitors, Laramie has an earnest charm that seems to have developed by accident, and it has been this way for nearly a century. Located just east of the beautiful Medicine Bow Mountains, at an altitude of more than 7,000 feet, Laramie is sometimes buffeted by chill winds. But it has university-town amenities like bookstores and coffee shops, and a few Western features to boot, including outlying ranchlands and some rowdy downtown bars.

Essentials

Getting There The Laramie Regional Airport (www.laramieairport.com; 307/742-4164), west of town along Wyo. 130, services daily flights on Great Lakes Aviation from Denver.

Or go Greyhound ( 800/231-2222), which stops in Laramie at a bus depot/convenience store at 1300 S. 3rd St. ( 307/745-4536). The bus stops at several Wyoming cities along I-80, including Rock Springs and Cheyenne.

Laramie is an easy 49-mile drive from Cheyenne on I-80; driving from Salt Lake, it’s just more than 300 miles once you hit Evanston. The fastest route from the Yellowstone–Grand Teton area is via U.S. 287 S. for 259 miles to Rawlins and I-80 east for 101 miles to Laramie.

Visitor Information Contact the Albany County Tourism Board, 210 Custer St., Laramie, WY 82070 (www.visitlaramie.org; 800/445-5303), or the Laramie Area Chamber of Commerce (www.laramie.org; 307/745-7339).

Getting Around Hertz ( 800/654-3131) and Avis ( 800/331-1212) maintain outlets at the Laramie airport.

Special Events Jubilee Days (www.laramiejubileedays.com) is a Western party that runs early to mid-July with rodeos, parades, and fireworks.

Getting Outside

Curt Gowdy State Park (http://wyoparks.state.wy.us; 307/632-7946) named for the television sportscaster who hailed from Wyoming, is quite pleasant, if not spectacularly beautiful. Located 23 miles southeast of Laramie, the 1,645-acre park is a great spot for a picnic ($6 day-use fee). Or stay the night in one of the five campsites for $17 per night. There are two lakes here, but no swimming is allowed (they provide part of Cheyenne’s water supply). Boating is permitted, but no rentals are available at the park. Call for further information. To get to the park, take I-80 east until you see the exit for Wyo. 210, the scenic back road to Cheyenne.

About 10 miles southeast of Laramie, on the edge of the Medicine Bow National Forest, are Pole Mountain and the Vedauwoo Recreation Area ( 307/745-2300). Vedauwoo and the Happy Jack trail head, near the Summit exit of I-80, have some excellent summer and winter recreational opportunities. The name Vedauwoo (pronounced Vee-duh-voo) is Arapaho for “earth-born.” The rock formations—soft-edged blocks shaped like stools, turtles, and mushrooms—were considered the sacred creations of animal and human spirits, and young Indian men sought visions there. Today rock climbers pursue their quests for challenging climbs here and find tough technical pitches. Other folks see a great place to mountain-bike, hike, and scan the vistas. There is a campground with sites for $10 per night. To get there, take I-80 east toward Cheyenne, past the second-biggest Abe Lincoln head in these parts (10 miles outside town) to exit 329, to the Vedauwoo turnoff.

Seeing the Sights

The Laramie Plains Museum, 603 Ivinson Ave. (www.laramiemuseum.org; 307/742-4448), is housed in a gorgeous three-story Queen Anne Victorian home built by Laramie settler Edward Ivinson, with furnishings from the 1890s. Admission is $10 adults, $7 seniors, and $5 students (free for kids 5 and under).

University of Wyoming The only 4-year college in the state, the University of Wyoming was established in 1887 with the funding of Old Main, its first building. At that time, there were five professors, two tutors, and 42 students on the 20-acre campus, which included Prexy’s Pasture, where the school’s first president kept his cows. Today, the University of Wyoming has more than 2,000 faculty and staff members and an enrollment of about 13,000. The university has boomed along with oil and gas prices and the coal-bed methane market, with the legislature loosening the purse strings in recent sessions.

A campus tour is worth the effort, if for no other reason than to check out the campus architecture, which ranges from the solid sandstone castles of a century ago to the spaceship designs of today (stop at the Visitors Services Center, 1408 Ivinson Ave., for a map). To catch a glimpse of student life in Laramie, swing by Prexy’s Pasture.

With no pro sports teams in Wyoming, the college’s athletic programs take on special importance. Fans drive from all over the state to root for the Cowboys as they compete against Mountain West Conference foes. For event information and tickets, contact the ticket office (www.wyomingathletics.com; 800/996-3261 or 307/766-4850).

The university plays an important role with its museum spaces, and most of the exhibits are free. Located in the Knight Geology Building, in the northwest corner of Prexy’s Pasture, the Geological Museum (www.uwyo.edu/geomuseum; 307/766-2646) has plenty of dinosaur fossils, as well as some from mammoth, camels, and other extinct Wyoming denizens, not to mention a life-size T. rex statue out front. It’s open Tuesday through Friday from 10am to 4pm, Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 3pm; admission is free. Also worth visiting is the Rocky Mountain Herbarium (www.rmh.uwyo.edu; 307/766-2236), open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm (7:30am–4:30pm when school is out of session). The Insect Gallery ( 307/766-5338; in the Ag Building, just north of Prexy’s Pasture) is primarily a research facility and a bit esoteric to the average visitor; call for current hours. The Centennial Complex (2111 Willett Dr., on the east side of campus, east of 15th St.) houses the UW Art Museum (www.uwyo.edu/artmuseum; 307/766-6622), with works by Audubon, Albert Bierstadt, Thomas Moran, and even Gauguin. It’s open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 5pm. Also in this building is the American Heritage Center (http://ahc.uwyo.edu; 307/766-4114), a top-notch research facility with extensive collections of Western-history materials and some unexpected archives, such as some of Jack Benny’s papers, open Monday 8am to 9pm and Tuesday through Friday from 8am to 5pm.

Bordered by N. 9th and N. 15th sts. on the west and east, and E. Lewis and E. Ivinson Ave. on the north and south. www.uwyo.edu. 307/766-1121.

Wyoming Territorial Prison State Historic Site Formerly a penitentiary where Butch Cassidy served time, the Territorial Prison transmogrified into an experimental livestock station before becoming the historical park it is today. Beyond the prison, almost everything having to do with frontier life before the start of the 20th century can be found on the site’s 200 acres, from a funky frontier town (open weekends only) to homesteader’s cabins and farm animals. There is also an art gallery and a gift shop. Expect to spend about 2 hours here.

975 Snowy Range Rd. (just east of I-80, exit 311). http://wyoparks.state.wy.us. 800/745-6161 or 307/745-6161. Admission $5, $2.50 for children 12–17, free for children 11 and under. May–Oct daily 9am–6pm; call for winter hours.

Shopping

Since Laramie is a university town, it has its fair share of bookstores. Our favorites are the peaceful 2nd Story Books and Personally Recommended Books, both at 105 E. Ivinson Ave. ( 307/745-4423). To see what’s hot on campus, visit the University Bookstore, 1 block north of Ivinson Avenue and 13th Street ( 800/370-2676).

If you’re looking for the gear you need for an adventure in the Medicine Bow, try Cross-Country Connection, 222 S. 2nd St. ( 307/721-2851), for skiing and climbing equipment (you can rent skis here, too). For Western clothing and souvenirs, hit Martindale’s, downtown at 217 E. Grand Ave. ( 307/721-4100).

Downtown Laramie is also home to all kinds of artists and craftspeople. Earth, Wind, and Fire, 216 S. 2nd St. ( 307/745-0226), is a pottery lover’s dream come true. The prime antiques store is Antique Fever, 211 S. 2nd St. ( 307/721-8398).

Where to Stay

Among the chain properties in town are Travelodge, 165 N. 3rd St. ( 800/942-6671 or 307/742-6671), with rooms for $70 to $135 double; and the Hilton Garden Inn, on the University of Wyoming campus at 2229 Grand Ave. ( 307/745-5500), with double rates of $109 to $159. Outside of the chains, the Sunset Inn, 1104 S. 3rd St. (www.sunsetinn-laramie.com; 307/742-3741), is a small motel with an outdoor pool and indoor hot tub. Doubles cost $45 to $90.

Mad Carpenter Inn ★ Before Lawrence Thomas bought this huge Victorian near the University of Wyoming Campus, it was just a “shabby old house.” But Thomas, a one-time basketball player at UW, renovated the place and crafted the woodwork that earned him the nickname “the Mad Carpenter” from his daughter. The end result is a first-rate B&B with equal parts elegance and whimsy in its three guest rooms, two of them with queens in the main house. The third room is actually its own structure, the Dollhouse, with an ornate staircase leading to a sleeping loft and the adjacent balcony. In the main house, there is also one of the best game rooms I’ve ever seen in an inn, complete with slick hardwood floors; a piano; dartboards; and pool, Ping-Pong, and foosball tables. Breakfast includes homemade fruit crisps and occasional egg dishes.

353 N. 8th St., Laramie, WY 82072. www.madcarpenter.com. 307/742-0870. 3 units. $90–$125 double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Game room. In room: TV, no phone, Wi-Fi (free).

Vee Bar Guest Ranch ★★ A jewel of a guest ranch, the Vee Bar is perfect for those looking to delve into the ranching lifestyle as they get away from it all. The property itself, 800 acres in all, features lush fields, cottonwood and willow groves, and a stretch of the crystalline Little Laramie River. Alongside the historic main lodge, the accommodations here are comfortable cabins and a trio of “Riverside Suite” duplexes that manage to balance the rustic with the convenient. Two of the free-standing cabins are more than a century old, restored and furnished with antiques of local origin; the third is modern (1990) but blends into the old-fashioned atmosphere with ease. Activities such as horseback riding, cattle drives, fishing, river tubing, and overnight camp-outs are included, as are all meals. For breakfast, expect flapjacks, eggs, and bacon; for dinner, steaks, seafood, and other hearty fare. Guests can unwind in the historic John Wayne Saloon.

38 Vee Bar Ranch Rd., Laramie, WY 82070. www.veebar.com. 800/483-3227 or 307/745-7036. Fax 307/745-7433. 9 cabins. $3,350–$3,750 per 7-night stay for 2 adults; $1,445–$1,645 per week each additional person. 3-night packages also available. Rates include all meals and activities. Fall to spring (and summer Sat), single-night stays are available for $150–$170 for a double. AE, DISC, MC, V. Located 21 miles west of Laramie via Snowy Range Rd. (Wyo. 130). Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; children’s programs; exercise room; outdoor Jacuzzi; Wi-Fi (free). In room: Fridge, no phone.

Camping

The Laramie KOA, off I-80 at 1271 W. Baker St. ( 307/742-6553), is open year-round. There are 100 pull-through sites here, as well as a rec room, small store, and unobstructed mountain views. Full hookups cost $28 to $32 in summer (lower in winter); there are also tent sites and cabins. There are also campgrounds at Curt Gowdy State Park and Vedauwoo Recreation Area (see “Getting Outside,” above).

Where to Eat

Thinkers and talkers fuel up on good java at the Coal Creek Coffee Company, 110 E. Grand Ave. ( 307/745-7737); there is sometimes live music in the evenings. You can get pasta or pizza at Grand Avenue Pizza, 301 E. Grand Ave. ( 307/721-2909), which hides in an old corner space downtown.

Altitude Chophouse & Brewery ★ AMERICAN/MICROBREWERY This downtown eatery, effortlessly melding woodsy and swank, features tree stumps for bar stools and blue banners hanging from the rafters to dampen the sound of friendly chatter. The atmosphere is a rich complement to the excellent fare, which includes pub standards (burgers, pizzas, and cheese sticks) as well as excellent steaks and seafood. We like the cedar plank salmon and the orange-braised pork loin, but the steaks are also held in high regard. The prices are right, and the beers aren’t bad at all, either.

320 S. 2nd St. www.altitudechophouse.com. 307/721-4031. Reservations accepted. Main courses $8–$24. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm. Bar open later.

Sweet Melissa VEGETARIAN A meatless menu in Wyoming might sound like something of an oxymoron, but this funky cafe by the rail yard will satisfy most any patron, carnivorous or not. The three-bean chili is terrific and makes me long for another trip to Laramie, but the menu also includes salads, black bean burgers and hummus sandwiches, sweet potato–black bean burrito, lentil loaf, mushroom fajitas, and several pasta dishes. There are also vegan and gluten-free options. Attached is the Front Street Bar, a comfortable, brick-laden space to wet your whistle

213 S. 1st St. 307/742-9607. Reservations accepted for large parties only. Main courses $7–$10. DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–9pm. Bar open later.

A Side Trip for the Outdoor Enthusiast: The Snowy Range & Carbon County

Snowy Range: 32 miles W of Laramie

You can very quickly leave behind the dry plains around Laramie and find yourself up among lakes, forest, and substantial peaks in the north end of the Medicine Bow Mountains, known as the Snowy Range. Just take Wyo. 130 west, through the foothill town of Centennial, past the Snowy Range Ski Area (www.snowyrangeski.com; 307/745-5750; full-day lift tickets are $39 for adults, $34 for teens 13 to 17, $24 for children 12 and under), and up into the mountains, where peaks rise well over 10,000 feet. Though Medicine Bow Peak is 12,013 feet tall, it’s a relatively easy day-climb, starting at the parking lot by Lake Marie and covering about 5 miles. You can loop around the west side of the hollow in which the peak stands and return on the east side among the lakes. Trails are well marked, and you’ll meet people as you hike. Just keep an eye out for thunderheads, as you’ll be above timberline, exposed to lightning. For detailed trail maps, contact the Medicine Bow National Forest, 2468 Jackson St., in Laramie (www.fs.fusda.gov/mbr; 307/745-2300).

If you drive on over the Snowies—it takes only about an hour—you’ll drop down into the valley of the North Platte River, with its old mining and timber towns such as Encampment and Saratoga. Saratoga is the roost of several fishing outfits that guide on the North Platte, one of the finest trout fisheries in the state. If you spend the night, you’ll probably enjoy the creaky, old-fashioned style of the historic (1893) Hotel Wolf, 101 E. Bridge St. (www.wolfhotel.com; 307/326-5525), with double rates of $70 to $110; or the Saratoga Resort and Spa, 601 E. Pic Pike Rd. (www.saratogainn.com; 800/594-0178), with its own private hot-spring-fed pool, golf course, and double rates of $144 to $216 in summer and $117 to $177 in winter (soaking and continental breakfast included). Opened in 2011—although the ranch dates to the 1870s—the Lodge & Spa at Brush Creek Ranch, 66 Brush Creek Ranch Rd. (www.brushcreekranch.com; 307/327-5294), is an all-inclusive luxury guest ranch with all of the fixings, from horseback riding and skeet shooting to buffalo hunts on private ranch land and a PGA-certified indoor golf simulator. Situated on a scenic working ranch with 2,000 cattle, lodging ranges from slick guest rooms, to restored historic cabins, to luxury homes with their own staffs. Summer rates start at $1,200 for two for a lodge room and go up from there.

At the foot of the mountains in Centennial, try the Old Corral Hotel (www.oldcorral.com; 307/745-5918), $85 to $130 for a double with Western decor ($55–$95 double fall and spring), or the rustic Brooklyn Lodge (www.brooklynlodge.com; 307/742-6916), a log-laden B&B with rockers and wagon-wheel tables; double rates are $175. Another area attraction of note is Woods Landing in the dinky town of Jelm (www.woodslanding.com; 307/745-9638), a historic Western dance hall built on 24 boxcar springs—when the dance floor is full, the place literally bounces. A restaurant, a complex of rustic rental cabins ($55–$100 double), and a riverside guesthouse ($150–$175 a night, with a 2-night minimum) are on-site. North of the Snowies, off of I-80, the Historic Elk Mountain Hotel, 102 E. Main St., Elk Mountain (www.elkmountainhotel.com; 307/348-7774), is a nicely restored hotel with double rates of $130 to $175 and a restaurant on-site.

Camping

Medicine Bow National Forest (www.fs.usda.gov/mbr; 307/745-2300) maintains a number of semiprimitive campgrounds June through September, scattered throughout the range west of Laramie. Fees at most campgrounds range from $10 to $12 per night, although a few are free or $5 per night.

Fishing

The Upper North Platte River cuts right through Saratoga, and those in the know consider it one of the state’s top trout-fishing spots. Stoney Creek Outfitters, 216 E. Walnut, Saratoga (www.fishstoneycreek.com; 307/326-8750), charges $450 for a full-day, two-person float-fishing expedition.

Rock Springs

258 miles W of Cheyenne; 178 miles S of Jackson

Rock Springs began as a stage station on the Overland Trail, named after a natural spring that dried up after extensive mining in the area. In 1894, Jack London wrote of Rock Springs: “It seems to be the Wild and Woolly West with a vengeance.” It’s still true: Rock Springs shows the rougher side of Wyoming, powered by a coal-burning power plant, freight trains roaring through, and all-night truckers stopping for coffee, adding to a blue-collar sensibility.

For more than a century, boom followed bust followed boom, and in the late 1970s, oil, gas, and coal caused the area population to skyrocket. So did the crime rate, and corruption raised its ugly head, but things have improved dramatically since.

The city is not far from some fine outdoor attractions: Fossil Butte National Monument and Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area.

Essentials

Getting There Delta and United fly into Rock Springs–Sweetwater County Airport (www.rockspringsairport.com; 307/352-6880), 15 miles east of town on I-80, and the Greyhound bus rumbles in at 1695 Sunset Dr. (www.greyhound.com; 307/362-2931).

Rock Springs sits at the intersection of U.S. 191 and I-80. From Cheyenne, drive I-80 west for 258 miles. From Jackson, take U.S. 191 south for 178 miles.

Visitor Information The Rock Springs Chamber of Commerce, 1897 Dewar Dr. (www.rockspringswyoming.net; 800/463-8637 or 307/362-3771), and Sweetwater County Travel and Tourism, 404 N St., Ste. 404 (www.tourwyoming.com; 307/382-2538), put a positive spin on Rock Springs and its immediate area.

Getting Around Avis ( 800/230-4898), Enterprise ( 800/261-7331), and Hertz ( 800/654-3131) maintain counters at the airport. For a cab, contact Executive Taxi ( 307/922-6530).

Seeing the Sights

While strolling around town, pop into the Community Fine Arts Center, at the Sweetwater County Library, 400 C St. (www.cfac4art.com; 307/362-6212), which contains a few original paintings by Grandma Moses and Norman Rockwell. The Rock Springs Historical Museum, 201 B St. ( 307/362-3138), is housed in the city’s original city hall (1894), a fine piece of Romanesque architecture featuring exhibits covering the city’s rough-and-tumble past. The Western Wyoming Community College Natural History Museum, 2500 College Dr. ( 307/382-1600), has several dinosaur displays and a few fish and plant fossils; there are also a pair of replica Easter Island moai statues on campus. All three museums are free.

Where to Stay

With a swimming pool, free Wi-Fi, and well-maintained modern rooms, Holiday Inn, 1675 Sunset Dr. ( 307/382-9200), offers rooms for $109 to $135 double. The Motel 6, at I-80 exit 102, at 2615 Commercial Way ( 307/362-1850), has rates of $45 to $65 double.

Where to Eat

Bitter Creek Brewing MICROBREWERY life is too short to drink cheap beer, reads the sign behind the oak bar. If you agree, then Bitter Creek is the place for you. In four fermenting vats adjacent to the bar, they concoct their own special microbrews, including the popular Mustang Pale Ale and the cleverly named Coal Porter, a darker beer with a slight chocolate aftertaste. The menu includes gourmet salads, pizzas, and pasta dishes.

604 Broadway. www.bittercreekbrewing.com. 307/362-4782. Main courses $6–$14 lunch; $9–$20 dinner. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm.

Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area ★

24 miles W of Rock Springs

By May 1869, the Union Pacific had laid its tracks across Wyoming and pinned them to the eastbound rails with a golden spike. The town of Green River, 15 miles west of Rock Springs, was only a year old. And that May, 10 frontiersmen and ex-soldiers climbed off the train, led by a veteran who’d lost his arm in the Civil War. They jumped into stout wooden boats and set off down the Green River. As they slid through red canyons with the cliffs peaking high above, almost singed yellow along the rims, they named the place Flaming Gorge.

The expedition continued down the Green, which merged into the Colorado River, and then continued on into the Grand Canyon, weaving through boulders, portaging sandbars, and being sucked through rapids. Three men decided to hike out rather than risk the rapids. They were later found bristling with arrows. The remaining seven survived. The leader went on to map and record the “Great American Desert” and later helped organize and direct the U.S. Geological Survey. The one-armed Civil War veteran, a famous river runner, was, of course, John Wesley Powell.

Today a 455-foot dam, 15 miles into Utah, backs the river onto itself for 91 miles, nearly to the town of Green River. Each summer, jet-boaters, water-skiers, and anglers skim the surface of the reservoir, while paddlers drop in below the dam for scenic and adventurous floats in the wake of Powell’s boats.

Impressions

The river enters the range by a flaring, brilliant red gorge, that may be seen from the north a score of miles away . . . We name it Flaming Gorge.

—Explorer Major John Wesley Powell, May 26, 1869

Essentials

Getting There Take I-80 west from Rock Springs for 15 miles to the town of Green River at the junction of Wyo. 530. (See “A Driving Tour,” below, for information on driving through the area.)

Visitor Information For information before you arrive, contact the District Ranger (www.fs.usda.gov/ashley; 435/784-3445). Once you’re in the area, stop at the U.S. Forest Service’s visitor center in Green River, at 1450 Uinta Dr. ( 307/875-2871), to pick up maps and brochures.

Admission & Regulations If you’re boating, admission to the 190,000-acre Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area is $5 per vehicle per day or $15 for a 7-day pass. The Forest Service’s regulations here are mostly common sense, aimed at preserving water quality and protecting the forest and historic sites. In addition, Wyoming and Utah fishing and boating regulations apply in those states’ sections of the recreation area. Leashed dogs are permitted on trails.

A Driving Tour

As you drive south from Green River on Wyo. 530, the cactus-and-sagebrush-filled Devils Playground badlands and the rock formations of Haystack Buttes will be to your right. Wyo. 530 runs the length of the recreation area’s west side and provides access to the Flaming Gorge Reservoir at the Buckboard Crossing Area, 20 miles south, where a full-service marina operates during the summer.

From Wyo. 530, pick up Utah 44 just across the state line in Manila, Utah. Utah 44 runs south, then east for 27 miles to pick up U.S. 191. Along this route, you’ll catch glimpses of Utah’s Uinta Mountains to the west and may see bighorn sheep in nearby Sheep Creek Canyon, which has been designated a special geological area by the Forest Service because of its dramatically twisted and upturned rocks. A mostly paved 11-mile loop road cuts off from Utah 44, offering a half-hour tour of this beautiful, narrow canyon, with its lavish display of rocks that have eroded into intricate patterns, a process that began with the uplifting of the Uinta Mountains millions of years ago. This loop may be closed in winter.

Eventually, you’ll come to the Red Canyon Overlook on the southern edge of the gorge, where a rainbow of colors adorns 1,000-foot-tall cliffs. The Red Canyon Visitor Center (open daily in summer) is nearby, as is Flaming Gorge Dam.

To head back to Wyoming, take U.S. 191 away from the eastern edge of the gorge. From the junction of Utah 44 and U.S. 191, it’s 16 miles to the border. Once you’re at the state line, it’s 30 miles to the turnoff for Firehole Canyon, an access to the gorge that offers views of the magnificent spires known as Chimney Rocks. Keep going north on U.S. 191 and you’ll hit I-80 again.

Getting Outside

For more information about the Utah portion of Flaming Gorge National Recreation Area, including additional outdoor recreational activities and outfitters, lodging options, and other nearby sites of interest, see Frommer’s Utah.

Boating Three marinas on Lake Flaming Gorge provide boat rentals, fuel, launching ramps, and boating and fishing supplies. Cedar Springs Marina (www.cedarspringsmarina.com; 435/889-3795) is 2 miles west of Flaming Gorge Dam; Lucerne Valley Marina (www.flaminggorge.com; 435/784-3483) is on the west side of the lake, 7 miles east of Manila; and Buckboard Marina (www.buckboardmarina.com; 307/875-6927) is also on the west side of the lake, off Wyo. 530, 22 miles north of Manila.

Camping The U.S. Forest Service maintains about 20 RV and tent campgrounds in the area (about $10–$25 a night), and there are also many primitive riverside sites. Contact the Forest Service visitor center in Green River ( 307/875-2871) for more information.

Fishing You might want to bring along a muscular friend if you plan to fish Lake Flaming Gorge, which is famous as the place to catch record-breaking trout, such as the 51-pound, 8-ounce lake (Mackinaw) trout caught in 1988; the 26-pound, 2-ounce rainbow caught in 1979; and the 33-pound, 10-ounce brown caught in 1977. You’ll also see other cold-water species, such as smallmouth bass and kokanee salmon. Fishing is popular year-round, although ice-fishermen are warned to make sure the ice is strong enough to hold them. For fishing information and excursions, call Conquest Expeditions (www.conquestexpeditions.com; 435/784-3370 or 801/244-9948).

Killpecker Sand Dunes & Fossil Butte National Monument

Killpecker Sand Dunes: 40 miles N of Rock Springs; 140 miles SE of Jackson

Killpecker Sand Dunes

North of Rock Springs and east of Eden (I’m not kidding . . . it’s a small town) swell the Killpecker Sand Dunes—the largest active dunes in North America. Here hikers can scale and descend the heaving hills of white sand, where the noon heat shimmers and the midnight cold cuts. Rock climbers trek to Boar’s Tusk, a standing volcanic plug, ethnography buffs seek the White Mountain Petroglyphs, and photographers with high-powered telephoto lenses should be on the lookout for wild horses.

Bird-watchers will especially enjoy the Seedskadee Wildlife Refuge, where they may see geese, sandhill cranes, and great blue herons along the miles of marshes along the Green River.

Getting There To get to the dunes, drive Wyo. 191 north from Rock Springs 36 miles to Eden. Turning east, you’ll bump along at least 20 miles of gravel road. Bring a compass, plenty of emergency water, and a map. It’s best to contact the Bureau of Land Management ( 307/352-0256) before blazing the trail on your own. Note: When it rains, the bentonite on these rough roads turns to glue, and smart drivers stop trying.

Fossil Butte National Monument

Standing at the base of Fossil Butte, gazing up 1,000 feet at the rust- and ocher-stained cliffs, with the crackling desert wind rattling sage and tumbleweeds, you’d never guess that aeons ago you’d have been looking up from the bottom of a subtropical ocean. Some 50 million years ago, during the Eocene Epoch, millions of fish wriggled across what’s now the sky. With the ebb and flow of millennia, they sifted into the mud and fossilized.

Today, visitors join paleontologists during the summer to dig for the ancient remains of fish, insects, turtles, birds, and even bats. You can also hike (be watchful for rattlesnakes) on two short trails—the 1.5-mile Fossil Lake Trail and the 2.5-mile Quarry Trail. This is also a prime wildlife-viewing area, where you’re likely to see pronghorn, mule deer, white-tailed prairie dogs, and ground squirrels, and you might be lucky enough to spot moose, elk, and beaver as well. A variety of birds are also seen here, including Canada geese, great blue herons, Clark’s nutcrackers, yellow-headed blackbirds, great horned owls, and red-tailed hawks.

The excellent Fossil Butte Visitor Center ★ ( 307/877-4455) exhibits more than 75 fossils, including a 13-foot-long crocodile and the oldest-known bat, plus it offers video programs. It’s open daily from 9am to 5:30pm May through September, 8am to 4:30pm the rest of the year, and closed during winter holidays and bad snow.

Getting There From Green River, head west on I-80 to U.S. 30 (exit 66), which you follow north about 40 miles. Past Kemmerer, follow the signs to the visitor center (about 3 1/2 miles). Admission to both the monument and visitor center is free. Advance information is available by writing to Superintendent, Fossil Butte National Monument, P.O. Box 592, Kemmerer, WY 83101 (www.nps.gov/fobu; 307/877-4455).

Also Worth a Look No need to rush through Kemmerer, an old mining town with a pleasant central square and some fine old buildings, set along the Hams Fork River. Here you’ll find the very first JCPenney store ( 307/877-3164) and the original home of the chain’s founder, James Cash Penney. The store, despite being small and historic, is a regular JCPenney, open year-round. The house is open Memorial Day to Labor Day, Monday to Saturday 9am to 6pm, with free admission. The flagship store is on the town’s central square, at 722 JC Penney Dr.; the home is 1 block north. Another good local attraction: Pine Creek Ski Resort (www.pinecreekskiresort.com; 307/279-3201) is about 50 miles northwest of Kemmerer, though calling it a “resort” is a bit of hyperbole. Full-day lift tickets are $40 for adults, $30 for children 17 and under.