Jerusalem artichoke {Helianthus tuberosus)

It isn t from Jerusalem and it isn't an artichoke. The name Jerusalem artichoke is believed to be from a corruption of girasote, the Italian word for "turn toward the sun.'' It is indeed a member of the sunflower family. And it does taste a bit like an artichoke (if you use your imagination and haven't had artichokes for a while). This native of North America was introduced to Europe in 1616, becoming more popular there than in its own home. It could be the Jerry Lewis of the plant world.

Urban agriculturalist Hartley Rosen calls it "the food of the future." That has something to do with its growing needs, which are basically soil, and maybe some sun and why not a little water — but don't go to any trouble on its account because if you simply drop part of a tuber into a hole and refill it, by mid-summer you'll probably have a head-high plant whether you remembered it or not. (Note that some consider Jerusalem artichoke a weed because it tends to come back every year with the tenacity of an unwanted relative).

It's not a bad-looking plant. The flowers are too small and the leaves somewhat gawky, but it can work well as a seasonal fence. It makes a fine choice for a guerrilla garden you hope to harvest because it's tough, fastgrowing and most people won't know what it is, so you can be fairly sure of getting a tasty crop even in a busy area.

The treasure lies underground in the tubers you get when you pull the plants up. They look like raw ginger and taste like...well, not much. Call it a subtle flavor, one that appeals to discerning palates when sliced raw for salads or dipping, or cooked as you might a tender potato (too long and you get mush). Dig them up anytime from October to May, although some say the mild taste gets sweeter after a frost. I actually quite like them, but then I don't mind bland foods.

The "future" designation also comes from the way these plants store their carbohydrates in a complex sugar called inulin. Eating inulin is said to provide one with the sense of being filled, but, unlike normal sugar, inulin is

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not absorbed by the body. Jerusalem artichokes have been touted as an ideal food for diabetics and anyone on a weight-loss program. If the Britney Spears Jerusalem Artichoke Diet book hits number one, remember you read it here first.

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Matthew Green — Street Smarter

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