Page numbers refer to the 2020 print edition
References in italics indicate illustration figure numbers
A
Abloh, Virgil 292
Aboah, Adwoa 294
activism 303
Adidas 291
Aesthetic costume 192–93; 208
Afghan coats 258
‘Agro Chic’ 274
Alaïa, Azzedine 263; 302
A-line 250
American fashions 247–48, 251, 256, 259, 265–66
American workwear 267, 272
Amies, Hardy 246
androgyny 220, 222, 284, 291; 257, 261
Anglo-Saxon costume 52–53
ankle socks 248
Apfel, Iris 296
appliqué 258
Armani, Giorgio 265, 276, 298; 309
armour 15, 34, 51; 28, 29, 48, 67
army-and-navy surplus clothes 255
art, influence of 291 see also Pop and Op Art, influence of
Art School collective 296
athleisure 291
B
baby-doll dresses 253
Babylonian costume 13; 5
back, exposure of 231, 234; 268
‘baguette’ bag 280; 327
Bailey, Christopher 285, 302
Bakst, Leon 212
Balenciaga, Cristobal 245, 249, 250, 257, 285, 301
Balmain, Pierre 249, 263
barbettes 60, 62
bark clothing 11–12
Barratt, Tom 296
bathing costumes 234 see also swimwear
Bayeux tapestry 53–55; 46
‘Bazaar’ boutique 253
B-boys 270
beads 258, 270; 9, 11
beards 15, 34, 42, 82, 297; 3–5
beatniks 252
Beckham, Victoria 288
belts 18, 24, 27, 41, 51, 284; 8
Beyoncé 291, 294
Biba 258; 296
bikinis 251; 34
Black Lives Matter 294
blazers 195
bloggers 285, 299, 302
Blondie 281
Bloomer-dresses 174–76; 190
bloomers 200
blouses 186, 198, 210, 212, 215, 280
Boateng, Ozwald 276; 322
bodices 42, 102, 104, 128, 138, 162, 167, 170, 180, 184, 185–86, 191, 212
Bohan, Mark 257
Bohemian look 277, 283
boleros 210, 237
bombast, use of 84
bondage 261
boots see footwear
Boss, Hugo 276
Bosse, Abraham, fashion engravings 101; 105–7
bourgeois clothing 82–83, 99, 100, 103–4, 165–66, 211, 281; 83, 94, 98, 118, 119–20, 121, 210–11
boutiques 253, 255
braies see breeches
brand appropriation 299
branding 276–77
Brando, Marlon 252
brasses, monumental, as evidence of fashion 61–62; 54–59
brassières 252, 253
breeches 50, 51, 52, 58–59, 74–75, 80–81, 85, 98, 101, 105–6, 110, 131, 146, 153, 154, 164, 192, 195, 244; 168
brooches 51, 52; 22
Browne, Thom 292
Brummell, George Bryan (Beau) 153, 154
‘bumster’ trousers 274
Burberry 283, 285, 301, 302; 342
businesswomen, clothes for 266
buskins 43, 110
busks 91, 128; 97
bust 203, 211, 219–20; 233, 272 see also corsets; silhouette
bustiers 268
bustles 138, 169, 186, 189, 191–92, 198, 245; 196, 199, 202, 205–6, 207
butterfly sleeves 274–75
buttocks 231
buttons 134, 214, 270
Byzantine costume 46–49; 40–43
C
caftans 49, 258
calceus 43
camelaukion 49
canes 154
canions 98
capes 18, 198, 200, 237
Capucci, Roberto 252
caracalla 42
carbatina 43
Cardin, Pierre 256
cargo pants 275
Carnaby Street 255; 289
Carnegie, Hattie 248
Carolingian clothing 47
Casely-Hayford, Joe 267
cassocks 94, 96
Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge 286; 331
catsuits 256
Cavalier fashion 101, 103
celebrity, influence of 286–88, 291, 297–98; 331–33 see also film stars
Céline 274, 285, 291; 334
Chalayan, Hussein 268, 283
Chanel, ‘Coco’ 226, 245, 250, 257, 263, 277, 282, 283, 298; 285, 304, 328
chaperons 67
Charlemagne, Imperial costume 52
Charles II of England, as arbiter of fashion 109–11
chausses see hose
chemise dress 250
chesterfields 195–98, 201
chiffon 258
chignons 250 see also hairstyles
children’s clothes 157, 173; 125, 137, 163, 184, 185, 199, 202–3
China 286, 298
chiton 27, 30; 16, 26
Chiuri, Maria Grazia 298
chlamydon 21
chlamys 30, 34, 46; 22
Chloé 291
chopines 102
Clark, Ossie 253
cloaks 30–31, 43, 52, 94, 96, 101, 164, 170, 200; 22
cloche hats 226, 231
coats 18, 111, 128–29, 134, 146, 153, 164–65, 193, 202, 241; 168, 170, 177, 181, 240, 259, 262, 280, 306, 339 see also frock coats; overcoats; ‘vests’
cocktail dress 250; 284
codpieces 66, 79; 82, 87
coifs 81
collars 21, 60, 61, 66, 144, 146, 153, 154, 161–62, 198, 208, 211, 215–16, 250, 261 see also falling collars
colours of clothing 26, 27–30, 40–41, 43, 49, 83–84, 164, 165, 184, 201, 209, 212, 247, 252, 253, 258, 267, 284; 45
combat trousers 275
Comme des Garçons 266, 267, 286, 299–301; 308
Coolspotters 287–88
copotains 88
Corolle line (‘New Look’) 249
corsets 157, 163–64, 186, 191, 193, 203, 212, 220, 239–41, 245, 263; 186, 229, 260
Cos 291
cosmetics see make-up
‘Cossacks’ (trousers) 154
costume plates 138–40
cote-hardies 60–61, 66
cotton 248
‘country’ clothes, English 134, 141–44; 132, 148, 153, 158
Courrèges, André 256; 289, 290
crackowes 69
cravats 111–15, 131, 154, 164
Creed, Charles 215
crepe-soled shoes 252 see also footwear
crespines 62
Cretan costume 22–24, 26; 12, 13, 14
crinolines 169, 171–74, 177–78, 180–83, 238; 186, 188–89, 191, 192, 194, 195, 196, 201, 314
cross-gartering 51, 52, 98
Crusades, influence of on costume 55–57
cuculus 42
culottes 257; 292
customized clothing 261, 281, 289; 298
cyberpunk 270
cycling costume 195, 199–200, 236; 212, 218
D
dalmatics 41, 46, 52
Dan, Dapper 290–91
dandyism 151–53, 154, 165; 171
Day, Doris 251
day dresses 170, 198, 237, 238–39
Dean, James 252
décolletage 61, 79, 102, 128, 138, 147, 162, 167, 170; 80–81, 151
deconstructivism 270
Dedivanovic, Mario 297
Demeulemeester, Ann 270
denim 248, 251, 255, 281
Dessès, Jean 332
Dior, Christian 249–50, 257, 263, 274, 282, 292, 298; 284, 319
dirndl skirts 251
diversity 294–95, 296, 303
Doctor Marten boots 261, 301
Doeuillet, House of 226
Dolce & Gabanna 299
‘Dolly Varden’ dresses 186
doublets 60, 66, 79–80, 96, 100, 101, 105, 107; 111
Doucet, House of 226
drainpipe trousers 252
draped clothes 9, 12, 13, 27; 15–26, 29–33
Drécoll, House of 226
Du Pont 246, 262
dyes, aniline 184
E
eco fashions 270
Edwardian fashion 203–16, 252
Egyptian costume 18–22, 147; 8, 9, 10, 11
Elbaz, Alber 285
Ellis, Perry 265
embroidery 30, 41, 46, 48, 51, 53–55, 79–80, 128, 129, 209, 258, 270, 273; 8
Empire gowns 146
Enninful, Edward 294
environmental concerns 258, 289, 302
equality issues 290, 294–95, 303
Essche, Jan-Jan van 296
ethics 302
ethnic styles 258, 270, 277; 295, 315–16, 325
Etro 296
Etruscan costume 34–40; 27, 30
evening dresses 162, 170, 198, 229, 237, 250; 1, 151, 160, 164, 174, 193, 199, 203–4, 206, 222, 223–24, 227–28, 231–33, 252, 255, 265, 267–69, 276–77, 319–20
Everest, Timothy 276
F
falling collars 102, 111, 112; 97, 103, 109–10, 112 see also rabats
fans 162, 201
farthingales 93–94; 100
fashion plates 138–41, 167; 144–47, 154–57, 159–61, 165–66, 170, 172–76, 179, 183–84, 194, 196–99, 202, 218–21, 223–28, 234–35
‘fast fashion’ 289, 302
Fath, Jacques 245
feathers 137, 145, 159, 201, 208, 216, 284; 157, 209, 317
Fendi 277, 279; 326, 327
Fenty Beauty 296; 337
fertility figures 2
fetish style 261, 263; 302
Fifth Circle Group 267
figure, constriction of 23, 61, 100, 108, 157, 186, 191, 193, 203, 220, 239 see also bust; corsets; silhouette
fillets 62, 63
film stars 231, 251, 252
fishnet tights 261
‘flares’ 260, 270; 296
‘flatteners’ 220; 260
flounces 15, 23, 157, 169; 3, 166, 185
Foale, Marian 253
fontanges 118, 123; 118, 123
football gear 262
footwear 16–18, 34, 40, 43–45, 49, 51, 52, 68–69, 81, 98, 101–2, 110, 144, 145, 146, 154, 170, 178, 201, 252, 256, 258, 261, 262, 273, 279, 291, 301; 6, 62–63, 68, 105–7, 109, 290
Ford, Tom 273, 292, 302
Formichetti, Nicola 286
France
eighteenth-century fashion 128
Revolution and its effects on fashion 141–45
Second Empire 178–79
seventeenth-century fashion 100–2; 104, 117–24, 126–27
sixteenth-century fashion 99
fringed clothes 13, 18, 258; 4
frock coats 164, 193, 211, 241
furs 10–11, 67, 75–79, 83, 202, 284, 302; 259, 262, 307, 326
‘futuristic’ fashions 259, 270
G
Galanos, James 251
Galliano, John 274, 282; 319
gallicae 45
Gallic costume 51
Gap 275, 291
Gaultier, Jean-Paul 266, 267, 285–86, 298; 315
gender-neutral clothing 296 see also unisex clothes
German mercenaries, effect of on fashion, fifteenth to sixteenth centuries 72–74; 73
Ghesquière, Nicholas 285
Gibb, Bill 253, 258
‘Gibson Girl’ fashion 233
gilet-cuirasses 169
gipons see doublets
girdles 52; 9, 14, 15
‘girl-next-door’ 251
Givenchy, Hubert 250, 263, 274, 298, 299
gloves 98–99, 201, 208
GmbH 296
gonelles 51
Goths’ costume 50
gowns 61, 66–67, 94, 108, 146, 250 see also tea gowns
granatza 49
Greeks, ancient 9, 27–34; 15–26, 28–29
Green, Bill 255
Green, Craid 292
Griffe, Jacques 250; 286
grunge 270
Gucci 272–73, 277, 279, 290–91, 296, 302; 317–18, 336
Gvasalia, Demna 299, 301
gymslips 253
H
H&M 286, 299
hairpins 135
hair-powder 117–18, 123, 124, 135, 146
hairstyles 15, 21–22, 24, 1–32, 42, 43, 51, 53, 62–63, 72, 81, 88–91, 103, 104, 115–20, 123–24, 134–37, 144, 145, 146, 154, 159–61, 164, 185, 222–26, 237, 250, 252, 253; 7, 35–38, 40, 65–67, 71, 93, 95, 133, 138, 142–43, 161–63, 183, 264
Halston 283
handbags 145, 279–80, 285; 327, 330
handkerchief 128
‘harem’ trousers 214
Hartnell, Norman 246
hats see headgear
haute couture 179, 245, 262–63, 270, 298
headbands 258
headgear and headdresses
men 15, 18, 21–22, 34, 42, 59, 67–68, 81, 88, 120–21, 131–32, 134, 154, 164, 195, 211; 6, 8, 60, 62–63, 64, 68, 79, 101, 115, 116, 132, 139, 144, 147, 148, 168–70, 204–5, 280–81
women 24, 32, 48–49, 61, 62–66, 72, 103, 134–37, 145, 158–59, 164, 167, 181, 185, 186, 200–1, 208, 212, 214, 216, 226, 231, 245, 247; 8, 26, 41–42, 56, 58, 60, 61, 62–63, 70–72, 80–81, 132, 138, 140, 145–48, 149–51, 157, 179, 183, 197, 205, 269–70, 278–79, 282
Heim, Jacques 245
hennin headdresses 66
Hermès 274, 285–86
hijabs 299; 338
Hilfiger, Tommy 276, 302
himation 30–31
Hippies 258, 270
‘Hipster’ trousers 253
H-line 250
hobble skirts and garters 214; 242–43
Hobeika, Georges 298
Hollywood, influence of 231, 251, 252
hoods 59, 103
hook and eye fastenings 67; 111
hoops 127–28, 138 see also crinolines; farthingales
hose 58–59, 98; 111
hotpants 259
houppelandes 61, 66
Hulanicki, Barbara 258 see also Biba
Huseby, Benjamin Alexander 296
‘hypebeasts’ 301
I
ill-health, as a fashionable quality 166; 182
‘immediacy model’ 302
Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers (ISLFD) 246
India 298
‘influencers’ 291, 302
Instagram 290
internet 277, 283, 284–85, 287–88, 290
Isik, Serhat 296
Italian design 252, 255, 258, 265
Italian Renaissance costume 72; 62–64
Ivy-League style 256
Ivy Park 291
‘I Was Lord Kitchener’s Valet’ 255; 289
J
jackets 66, 80, 94, 96, 164, 193–95, 198, 252, 256, 260; 307 see also leather jackets; motorbike jackets; Norfolk jackets; smoking jackets
Jacobs, Marc 274, 286; 330
James, Charles 248
James, Richard 276
Japanese design 260, 267–68
jeans 252, 255, 273, 276; 317
Jeffrey, Charles 293
Jenner, Kylie 297
jerkins 66, 80, 96
jersey 248, 281
jersey dresses 186
jewellery 26, 43, 46, 48–49, 53, 163, 201; 11, 70
Jones, Grace 281
Jones, Kim 292
jumpers 252
jumpsuits 262
Juun.J 297
K
Kamali, Norma 261; 301
Kane, Christopher 286
Kane, Selly Raby 294
Karan, Donna 266, 299
Kawakubo, Rei 267; 308 see also Comme des Garçons
Keller, Clare Waight 299
Kenzo (Takada) 260
Kering 302
King’s Road, London 253, 261; 298
kirtles 52, 61, 75
Klein, Anne 251
Klein, Calvin 259, 265, 292; 307
knickerbockers 200, 244, 253, 257; 292
knitting 84–85
knitwear 258; 310
Korea 297–98
Kors, Michael 274
Kylie Cosmetics 297
L
L85 laws 248
lace 102, 104, 111, 118, 128, 189, 198, 203, 208; 97, 109, 115, 118, 223, 232
Lacroix, Christian 270; 312, 314
Lady’s Magazine 140
La Galerie des Modes 140
Lagerfeld, Karl 263, 266; 304
Landsknecht 74; 73
Lang, Helmut 270, 275; 321
Langtry, Lillie 186, 192; 207
Lanvin 245, 257, 285, 292
Lauren, Ralph 258, 265, 302; 307 see also ‘Polo’
leather jackets 261; 298
leg-bandages 52, 55, 58; 49
leggings 262
leg-of-mutton sleeves 158; 178
leisure wear 262
Lelong, Lucien 245
leotards 262
‘Le Théâtre de la Mode’ exhibition (1945) 248
Levis 301
linen 21–22, 265, 277; 322
lionnes, age of 167
liripipes 67
logos 276, 277, 290–91
loin-cloths 18, 22, 23, 41; 2, 11
loon trousers 256 see also ‘Flares’; trousers
lounge suits 198, 211, 241
Loverboy 293
Loweth, Eden 296
Lucile (Lady Duff-Gordon) 215
Lululemon 291
LVMH 302
Lycra 262
M
‘macaronis’ 134
Mainbocher (Main Rousseau Bocher) 245, 247–48
‘Make-do and Mend’ 247; 283
make-up 105, 250, 253, 296–98; 337
mandevilles (jackets) 97–98
Mango 299
maniakis 48
mantles 26
Margiela, Martin 270, 274, 285
Markle, Meghan 299
Marley, Bob 262
Marni 277
Marongui, Marcel 270
mass market 286, 296, 302
maximalism 296
maxi skirt 259
McCardell, Claire 248, 251
McCartney, Stella 291, 299
McLaren, Malcolm 261
McQueen, Alexander 274, 282, 283; 320, 329, 331
menswear 266–67, 292–93
‘Merveilleuse’ dresses 239
metallic mesh, used in clothes making 256, 265
Michele, Alessandro 292, 296
Milan, influence of 265, 282
Miller, Sienna 333
miniskirts 253, 259, 270; 287
Minoan costume see Cretan costume
Missoni (Tai and Rosita) 258; 310
Miu Miu 296
Miyake, Issey 260, 268; 300
‘Modern Bohemian’ 277; 325
modest wear 299; 338
Mods 255
Molyneux, Edward 245, 246
Mondrian-inspired dress 256; 291
Morton, Digby 246
Moschino, Franco 265, 302; 305
Moss, Kate 289; 332
motorbike jackets 252, 273
motoring costume 237, 240
muffs 162
Mugler Thierry 263, 266, 283, 286; 303
Muir, Jean 253; 297
multi-cultural societies, influence of 258
‘must-haves’ 278–80
N
Napoleon Bonaparte, effect of on fashion 147
neckerchief 128, 138
needle, invention of 11
Nef, Hari 295–96; 336
Netherlands, seventeenth-century fashion 103–4
‘New Look’ 249–50; 284
Nike 289, 299
non-binary representation 295–96
Norell, Norman 248, 251
Norfolk jackets 195
normcore 291
nostalgic style 258
nylon 246, 277
O
Occupation, The, and its influence 245, 248, 250
Off-White 292, 301
online shopping 284–85, 288, 289
Opening Ceremony 291
Oriental influence on Western fashion 56–57, 147, 212; 246–49
Ossendrijver, Lucas 292
Ottonian costume 44, 45
overcoats 111, 164–65, 195–98
‘Oxford bags’ 241–42
P
pageboy hairstyle 250 see also hairstyles
pallas 51
pallium 41
paniers 126, 128; 132, 141, 151
pantalettes 172
pantaloons 154, 164, 173
pants see trousers
Paquin, House of 226; 1
parasols 162; 230
Paris, influence of 179–80, 183, 226, 245, 248, 256, 263, 268, 282, 298–99
parkas 275; 321
pashmina shawls 279
passementerie 270
Patou, Jean 245
Paul, John 255
peasant costume 82–83, 260; 52
pedalpushers 251
peignoirs 170
pelerines 162
pelisses 162, 170
pellas 43
peplos 31; 18, 20
perfume 270
period clothing 258, 272
periwigs see wigs
perms 250
Persian costume 16–18; 6 see also ‘vests’
petticoat breeches 105–6
petticoats 102, 128, 166, 169, 171, 198, 252; 185, 186
Philo, Phoebe 285, 291; 334
Phrygian caps 16, 42, 59
Pilati, Stefano 285
pinafores 253
plackard 61
plaid, vogue for 158, 164; 183
plastics 302
platform-soled shoes 258 see also footwear
pluralistic style 258
plus-fours 244
Poiret, Paul 212, 226, 299; 246–48
poke bonnets 167; 179
political issues 290
‘Polo’ by Ralph Lauren 259
polonaise dress 186; 154
Pop and Op Art, influence of 253; 326
‘popover’ dress, wrap-around 248
‘Post-Soviet’ style 299
postwar years 248
poulaines 69; 69
‘power dressing’ 265
Prada 277, 279, 283; 323–24
Prada, Miuccia 277
Preppy styles 267
‘Princess’ dresses 185, 186
protective clothing see armour
prudery 167
Pucci, Emilio 252
puffed sleeves 157, 158; 175
Pugh, Gareth 283
Punk 260–61, 270, 281; 298
PVC 253, 256
Q
Quant, Mary 253, 277; 287
R
Rabanne, Paco 256
rabats 115; 115
races, clothes for 217, 244–45, 261, 263, 270, 278
Ragga 270
Ralph & Russo 298–99
ra-ra skirts 262
Rational Dress 192–93
rationing 245, 248
ready-to-wear 248, 251, 257, 270; 290
redingotes 170
Reebok 301
Regency fashion 164, 166
Reiss 286
Renta, Oscar de la 299
Restoration fashion 105–11; 114, 115, 125
reticules 145, 162
retro styles 270
revival styles 245, 258, 270
Rhodes, Zandra 258; 295
ribbons 104, 106, 107, 118, 159, 209
Ricci, Nina 245
Richmond, John 267
riding habit, nineteenth century 167; 175, 219
Rihanna 294, 296; 337
robes en chemise 144–45
Rochas, Marcel 245
rock ’n’ roll 252
rocs 52
Romans, ancient 9, 40–45; 31–39
Romanticism and fashion 157–58
round dresses 170
rubber wear 261
Rubchinskiy, Gosha 299–301
rucksacks 275
ruffs 86–88, 100, 104, 147, 161; 77–78, 80, 85, 92, 93, 95–96, 97, 98, 101, 103, 113
Russia 299
Russian Ballet, influence of on fashion 212
Rykiel, Sonia 286
S
Saab, Elie 298
‘sack’ dresses 126–27, 250; 286
safety pins 261
Saint Laurent, Yves 256, 257, 280, 283, 285, 298; 291, 292
sandals, Greek 34
sarongs 12, 267
Sassoon, Vidal 253
Saunders, Jonathan 286
Savage X Fenty 296
Savile Row 252
Schaube 83
Schiaparelli, Elsa 226, 245, 299
school uniforms 270
Scott L’Wren 286
seaside costume 234; 213
second-hand clothing 270–72
‘Seditionaries’ 261
Seduction Principle in fashion 88, 231
seersucker 248, 251
‘see-through’ dresses 18, 144–45; 8, 9
Selfridges 296
sequins 248, 284
servants’ costumes 171; 94, 135, 187
sewing machines 183
sexual revolution 253
shawls 147, 162, 170, 180, 279; 3, 4
sheath dresses 248
shift dresses 256
shirts 255
shirtwaister dress 250
shoes see footwear
shorts 235–36
shoulders, exaggeration of in women’s fashion 237, 284; 271
SHOWStudio 283
silhouette 211–12, 214, 219–20, 238–39, 296
Simons, Raf 268, 292
Siriano, Christian 339
Sitbon, Martine 270
sizing, standardized 248
skirts 9, 75, 91–93, 102, 108, 127–28, 151, 157, 158, 161, 163, 167, 169, 171, 180, 184–85, 186, 189–91, 198, 203, 212–14, 216, 219, 220–22, 226, 229, 231, 239, 250, 252, 262; 3, 4, 118, 185, 242, 254–55, 257, 263, 265, 300 see also miniskirts; ra-ra skirts
slashing 72, 74–75, 79, 81; 73, 75–76, 79, 82
sleeves 13, 41, 46, 50, 52, 57, 61, 66, 67, 72, 75, 79, 83, 94, 97, 100, 102, 128, 129, 151, 157, 158, 161, 163, 167, 186, 198–99, 210, 231, 250; 50, 73, 75–76, 175–76, 178, 180, 216–17, 274–75
Slimane, Hedi 292
‘slow fashion’ 302
Smith, Paul 302; 312
smoking jackets 198, 257
snoods 247
soccus 43
social media 285, 290, 291, 299, 301, 302
Soho 255
‘space-age’ style 253, 256
Spanish fashion, later sixteenth century, and its influence 84, 86, 98–99, 104; 88
sport, influence of on fashion 193–95, 199–200, 202, 235–36, 291; 239
sportswear 261–62, 267, 270
starch 100
‘steinkirk’ 115, 131
stephanos 49
Stephen, John 255
Stiebel, Victor 246
stiletto-heeled shoes 261
stockings 55, 80–81, 98, 131, 144–45, 146, 154, 201, 226, 238, 247, 253; 118, 154
stolas 43, 51
stoles 41
stomachers 61, 91, 128
streetwear 260, 301
strophium 42
studs 261
suede 258
Sui, Anna 316
suits 250, 252, 259, 265, 276; 309, 312, 313, 322
Sumerian costume 12; 3, 4
summer clothes 208, 235
sumptuary laws 31, 69, 84, 100, 220–22
super-tunics 52, 55, 59
surfers 270
suspenders 253
sweaters 252
sweatshirts 275, 276
swimwear 251
‘swinging Sixties’ 253
Swiss Guards, influence of on fashion 74; 74
synthetic fabrics 238, 253, 262, 277
T
tabards 260
Tailor and Cutter 198; 198
tailor-mades 210–11, 215, 216
Tajima, Hana 299; 338
tanning, discovery of 11
Taylor, Elizabeth 251
tea gowns 186–89, 210
‘teddy boy’ fashions 252, 270
teenage styles 252, 253
Teuton costume 50
ticking 248
tie-dye 258
ties 198, 252, 255
tights 253
tippets 61, 96
Tisci, Riccardo 302
togas 39, 40–41; 33, 39
toiles 238
Toogood, Faye 296
top hats and forerunners 134, 146, 154, 164, 167, 211; 147, 168–70, 181, 244
Topshop 286, 291
trabeas 46
tracksuits 262
training shoes 262, 291
transgender representation 295–96
travelling costume 211
tricornes and forerunners 120–21, 131–32; 115, 132, 153
Trigère, Pauline 251
trouser-press 211
trousers 42, 50, 154–57, 164, 175, 198, 211, 241–42, 247, 252, 256, 260, 284; 169–70, 177, 181, 289 see also breeches; ‘bumster’ trousers; cargo pants; combat trousers; drain-pipe trousers; ‘flares’; trouser suits
trouser suits 257; 292
T-shirts 252, 258, 261, 301
Tudor costume 72, 84, 88, 91–98; 80–81, 82, 84, 86, 90–91, 94, 95–96, 100–2
Tufflin, Sally 253
tufted tissues 12–13
‘tunic-robes,’ Etruscan 38–39
tunics 9, 13, 18, 41–42, 50, 51, 52, 55, 59, 250; 4, 7, 9, 11, 28, 29, 49
turbans 49, 51, 67, 147, 158, 247; 116
turn-ups of trousers 198, 211
Twiggy (Lesley Hornby) 253
twinsets 250
U
underwear 252, 253, 284 see also petticoats
Ungaro, Emanuel 256; 333
uniform and its influence on fashion 74, 255, 275
Union Jack, use in clothes design 255
Uniqlo 291, 299; 338
unisex clothes 256–57, 275, 296
United States see American fashions
urban sportswear 275, 276
Utility clothes (World War II) 219, 245–46; 252
utility clothing 275
V
Valentina 251
Valentino 298
Valli, Giambattista 298
Van Herpen, Iris 298
Van Noten, Dries 268, 277; 325
veils 15, 43, 51, 53, 57, 59–60, 62–63, 65, 72, 167; 61, 70, 72
Versace, Gianni 265, 296, 298
Versailles, Court of, as arbiter of fashion 111, 118, 123
vestments, Imperial garments’ likeness to 48, 49
‘vests’ (Persian coats) 110–11; 116
Vetements 299, 301; 340–41
Viktor & Rolf 268, 283
‘Vince’ 255
vintage clothing 288–89, 302; 332
Vionnet, Madeleine 226, 299
V-neck 215–16
Vogue 294
Volkova, Lotta 299
Voyage 277
Vuitton, Louis 274, 276, 286, 290–91, 292; 330
W
waistcoats 111, 129–31, 138, 144, 146, 153, 154, 165, 198, 241
Wales Bonner, Grace 293–94; 335
walking dresses 152, 165–67, 178, 216, 220, 236
War Production Board, American (WPB) 248
weaving 12
West, Kanye 291
Westwood, Vivienne 261, 268; 299
wigs 22, 115–17, 121, 123–24, 134; 115, 117, 129–31
Williamson, Matthew 277, 286
wimples 57, 60
Wooyoungmi 297
working-class costume 171, 252; 122, 211
workwear 272, 275, 276
World War II, effects of on fashion 241, 245–46, 248; 282–83
Worth 179–80; 193, 268
wrap-over dresses 251
X
Xuly-Bet 270
Y
Yamamoto, Yohji 267, 291; 311
Yeezy 291, 301
Y-line 250
Z
Zara 296
zips 261