THE DIARY OF ANNA MARIA MORRIS

 

Camp on the Stranger [River] 13 miles from Fort Leavenworth May 2d 1850.

To my dear Father We left Fort Leavenworth this morning at 1 Ocl I should say afternoon for we left after dinner I started our Spring Wagon with my Maids and Sargeant Jones as driver & guide. When we arrived at the Camp the Command was waiting for Rations to be open and as I thought it would be [a] more agreeable camp We drove on to Salt Creek where we halted till the whole command came up, we then came on to the place where we shall encamp for the night -Evry body left Ft. L. in good health and spirits the day delightful and the country perfectly lovely -As soon as our carriage halted Dr. McDougal1 and the other officers were invited to take a social glass which they appeared to enjoy very much particularly as we had a good supply of ice which all the others had forgotten -then Capt. Easton2 brought me a glass of Champagne which I feel the better for taking. We passed any number of California emigrants to day and altogether I have had a pleasant time so far -Dr. McDougal bought a beautiful carriage just before leaving Leavenworth which I am to have the use of and also of his Poney which is perfectly gentle -after travelling six miles we struck a new road which extends to Council Grove, and cuts off 60 miles of the route to Santa Fe it was made this spring I am resting in the wagon while waiting for the baggage wagons to come up. I see the camp fires already blazing around me. Mr. Ritch3 & Capt Lovell4 was out after dark to say good bye. Mr Ritch desired to be remembered to you & said I must tell you he came out to see me in my first encampment. -Dr. McDougals horse kicked him last night which makes him a little lame -The Quarter Masters clerk started in a beautiful carriage, the horses ran off and it was broken all to pieces. He came into camp horseback -these are the accidents the first day

Wednesday May 22nd. We were off at 6 Ocl a m had our breakfast of Mr. Henry's5 Misc Chest which opens and makes a good table. left the Stranger [River] at 8½ Ocl and after going about mile we were obliged to halt till I Ocl -as in crossing the creek the wagons stalled and the whole command were sent ahead to repair the road & crossing. I was riding with Mr. McDougal and altho' we were stationary three whole hours we did not get very much out of patience -The Dr. had two parlor chairs left in the mud broken all to pieces -I fear mine will go next -We crossed the Stranger [River] in safety tho' the banks are very steep indeed -on arriving at the camping ground most of the tents were pitched on a most beautiful Prairie, bordered on one side by low land, presenting altogether a very pleasing prospect -We have only advanced two miles to day I do not think we shall gain much by coming the new road, the detentions will make up the distance one wagon was turned up side down in the creek it belonged to the Quarter Masters clerk, the unfortunate individual who had his carriage broken to pieces the first day we left Ft. Leavenworth -

Thursday [May] 23rd. We left the Stranger [River] at 7 Ocl and after a pleasant journey of 20 miles encamped on the bank of the Grasshopper [now the Delaware River] a beautiful river in which there are some fish -the young officers went fishing & Dr. Mc to kill some birds he thought were Golden Plover for my dinner which Louisa boiled for me & it was very nice -We had a dinner to day which would have been called good anywhere -I had a delightful bath in the water of the Grasshopper every afternoon about 5 Ocl You can all imagine me seated in a tent on a Buffalo roab making my toilet -I shall be rather brown when I get there I am afraid to pass for an “Americano” When we overtook the Herd this morning we discovered that the little heifer Dr. McDougal gave me was not among them. On questioning the Herdsman we find he had not brought her from Leavenworth She got away & he came off without her. Capt. Easton lost a cow in the same way -Mrs. Easton & I get along nicely together we exchange calls every evening we are encamped in a delightful spot if it could only be as pleasant all the way I should be glad

Friday 24th We camped the Grasshopper at 7 O'cl Came 9 miles and encamped at 2 O'cl on Walnut Creek 13 miles from the Kansas - We find the new road very bad in places the horses sink very deep in thick black mud - The new road extends to Council Grove instead of 40 miles as I at first mentioned Maj M.[orris] had no choice about the road but was ordered by Maj. Sumner6 to take it -We live so far first rate have an abundance of milk & cream. The Dr. (My excellent friend) brought me some nice little fish for my dinner.

Saturday 25th We left Walnut Creek at 7 Ocl and after travelling ten miles crossed the Solain [Saline] creek -We then arived at Kansas river where we halted a long time went into one of the Indian houses -the woman was pretty & spoke french She was making mockasins, plenty of Caw Indians about the door; a dirty bedaubed set -a man belonging to the Fort was left dying of Cholera at Walnut creek. we have since heard of his death -at Kansas we overtook Lt. Field7 & his party who had preceded us to repair the road so our party is on the increase -

Sunday 26th [May] I & [?] left the Kansas at the usual hour went ½ miles & encamped at Camp Walker -I do not know the name of the creek -the Thermometer yesterday at 3 Ocl was 95.

Monday 27th Left Camp Walker at 7 Ocl travelled 10 miles & encamped at Wacanuske [Wakarusa] Creek. We came over a trackless Prarie most of the morning & were detained a long time finding out the way & repairing bad crossings we halted at 2 Ocl & had to wait a long time for the wagons to come up.

Tuesday [May] 28th a great change in the weather it is very cold -left Wacanakie [Wakarusa] Creek at the usual hour and were obliged to leave one of the men in camp dying with Cholera and four more were taken soon after we started in consequence of it we were obliged to shorten our days march came 11½ miles to Dragon [Dragoon] Creek - Maj Graham8 overtook us this morning

Wednesday 29th Left Dragoon creek at 7 Ocl & struck the Santa Fe trail in half an hour came 21½ miles and encamped on Turtle creek a beautiful stream & good water Capt. Campbell9 Lt Robertson10 & Lt. Park Eng11 & Dr Magruder12 overtook us this morning

Thursday 30th Left Turtle creek at 7 Ocl arrived at Council Grove at 2 Ocl - marched 13 miles -

Friday [May] 31st Passed at Council Grove

Saturday June 1st Left Council Grove at 12 Ocl the delay was caused by our losing our horses -arrived at Diamond Spring at 4 Ocl -

Sunday June 2nd Left Diamond Spring at 7½ Ocl. arrived at Lost Spring 16 miles at 2 Ocl and encamped on the wide open Prarie without wood except what we brought with us -the water is cold but not good taste -a terrible storm all night -

Monday 3rd. Left Lost Spring at the usual hour and arrived at the Cotton wood creek at 3 Ocl the stream is too much swolen for us to cross at present

Tuesday June 4th The creek so that we cannot get over with safety therefore we remain here (Cotton Wood) to day -We had another awful storm last night it is impossible to keep dry in a tent in such storms The Fly protects the top, but the rain beats in at the sides - The Maj received a note from Capt Saunders (who was left at Council Grove with 30 men) early this morning, saying he was very ill with Diarhoea and requested a Medical officer to be sent to him, accordingly the Maj sent Dr. Magruder with two men, & no sooner had he started than Dr McDougal reported sick, too ill to attend the Command and a man was sent off Post Haste to recall Dr. Magruder thus Capt Saunders will in probability die in the woods with no one to care for him but his soldiers13 the man said this morning they did not believe he would be alive when they got back to the Grove I believe Dr. McDougal has a bad headache and did not sleep well last night I think he has made up his mind not to be left without an assistant & I do not think it would be safe. When Capt. Saunders was left at the Grove the Dr. said he did not believe he would ever reach Santa Fe he was too sick to be left & I wonder he did not report so

Wednesday June 5th Left Cotton Wood at 10 Ocl crossed without much difficulty and arrived at Little Turkey Creek 19 miles at 5 Ocl. I rode all day with Mrs. Easton She has a most comfortable carriage. We saw Antelope to day for the first time. I saw them thro a Spy glass -I was a little afraid of Indians last night but they say we are not on dangerous ground yet

The roads are very muddy, as it has rained every day since the month came in -We have water here, but no wood except what we brought with us -Dr. McDougal is better and Dr. Magruder glad enough to be recalled he returned in double quick time -.

Thursday 6th Left Little Turkey Creek at 7 Ocl intending to go 26 miles (to the Little Arkansas) but at 11 Ocl We were brought up all standing at Big Turkey Creek which it was impossible to cross -We found a Merchants train waiting its fall. They have been here three days -the Creek is 12 feet deep & rising, as it rains every night or during the day. We have advanced only eight miles to day & are encamped on the Prairie with plenty of water but no wood or chips -The provident ones brought a few brands (left from the mornings fire along in case of accident - I was one of that number, just as we were about starting -the wood was out we must go to the Little Arkansas to day in order to have a good camping place with wood & water but as I thought something might occur to detain us on the road, I told Louisa to take some brands along sufficient to get our suppers & breakfast -so when most of our Company were lamenting the want of wood, I told them I had a small stove laid in -one of the young officers said he reconed I had been on the Prairie before, I told him no, but I thought it always well to provide against accident -I sent Mrs Smith a pan of charcoal to have her supper cooked with, & just as I had sent it -our Mexican came along panting for breath, with quite a wood pile on his back which he had been four miles to procure he threw it down looking as well pleased and indeed we all were, as tho he had laid down a greater treasure. I sent him a good drink of Brandy & he felt well compensated for his trouble

Friday 7th This is a lost day to us. it is impossible to cross the Creek -I took a ride on horse back this morning & intend to ride every day as our horse is easy & gentle -The Adjutant sent me half a loaf of bread to day & it was quite a treat -The woman who cooks for him came over with her yeast & made me up a loaf for tomorrow. She says I look so much better than when we left Leavenworth that I ought to stay on the Prairie all the time -the woman came from Santa Fe with Mrs. Henry and understands Camp life a soldier private Fisher was drowned this afternoon

Saturday June 8th By 9 Ocl this morning the Creek had fallen sufficiently to allow us to cross after replenishing the wagons the Express from L.[eavenworth] arrived this morning by it I now have a letter from Father and one from Sarah -Mr. Rich also kindly sent me two papers -In the Republican I regretted to see the death of Col. McKay14 recorded -

Sunday June 9th We had a delightful journey to day of 22 miles from the Little Arkansas to Big Cow Creek -the officers chased Buffalo all day & the Maj captured a live calf which he let go at night having no way to support it

Monday June 10th The express arrived from Santa Fe early this morning by it I sent my journal home Tuesday June 11th We came 22 miles this morning from Walnut Creek to Ash Creek -the weather is delightful -We have seen thousands of Buffalos to day & are kept well supplied with fresh meat Maj Haynes lost one of his carriage horses last night -he hung himself15

Wednesday June 12th We overtook an ox team this morning & Maj Fitzpatrick16 with it. by him I sent two pages of my journal home -We are encamped three miles from Pawnee Fork came 9 miles to day

Thursday June 13th Left Pawnee fork at the usual hour & are encamped on the Arkansas came 22 miles no wood pleanty of chips The Prairies are perfectly covered with flowers & beautiful ones too

Friday June 14th Our journey to day was 22 miles & we are again encamped on the banks of the Arkansas -It has been very hot to day but in consequence of the high wind we have not felt the heat very much

Saturday June 15th My journal of one day will do for the next day as long as we are travelling along the Banks of the Arkansas where we are again encamped after a journey of 22 miles which became very tiresome towards the last the Thermometer being at 96 it blows a huricane at night. The tents do not protect one from such winds -We were out of the range of Buffalo to day, no game of any kind beyond the land of flowers too almost except the Cactus which is just beginning to bloom and is very beautiful -We met a party of “Arapahoes” to day they approached us rather timidly at first were quite sociable afterwards & had a long talk which they carried on by signs. Mr Macarty understood them -When we were ready to start the Drum was beaten unexpectedly - & Indians and horses took to their heels pretty much frightened until they found it was only the signal for our departure.

Sunday June 16th The Thermometer at 98 we have travelled 20 miles to day & we encamped on the Arkansas for the last time I hope -We passed Fort Mann this morning or rather its remains, a few old logs & mud chimney the logs we had chopped up for fire wood & packed in our wagons enough to last 300 miles -We expect to cross the Arkansas tomorrow -The heat to day is intolerable

Monday June 17th a delightful morning. We crossed the Arkansas to day. it was high & we had a good deal of difficulty getting all over. Mrs. Graham, Mrs. Smith & I crossed in an Ambulance. they were frightened, but I was not in the least, tho the Doct informed me after we landed that we came within an ace of upsetting. We passed our wagon (which the Maj was driving) in the middle of the river & a little farther on we passed Capt Eastons (with his family in) the tongue broken, then we passed the Doct's with a trace broken, & he on horse back trying to mend it, assistant was sent to those in the River, and after a while the carriages were all over -We were then obliged to wait in the boiling sun several hours for the train to cross we were perfectly beset with Indians and amused ourselves with them. One of the young squaws took a great fancy to my diamond ring & generously offered me a brass bracelet in exchange which I declined Mr. Macarty & the Express left in this morning they wished the Maj to give them an escort but he had no men to spare -

Tuesday June 18th We went only four miles to day to the upper crossing of the Arkansas where we encamped to have our washing and some extra cooking done -it being the last place where there is plenty of water. The men enjoyed their rest and bathing very much. this is a hard march for Infantry Recruits I had a nice beef gumbo to day which on the plains is quite a treat We still live very well, but the scorching heat from 9 Ocl in the morning till 6 Ocl in the evening is intolerable -

Wednesday June 19th We have travelled 18 miles to day & are encamped at the first water hole after leaving the Arkansas -it is intensely hot, no wood, miserable grass, & only hot muddy water for the men & horses which they drink as tho' it was delightful We had an awful wind storm this afternoon accompanied by a little rain, it came up very suddenly. the first intimation we had of its approach was my portfolios blowing open & scattering my papers to the winds all over the Prairie -The Maj & the servants went in pursuit & I was left alone in the tent. I thought every moment it would blow down, but it did not quite, however had to be repitched Several of the tents blew down the Dr's among them. he took refuge with Col Chandler17 After the storm had abated. I saw two water spouts the sky was perfectly beautiful sublimely beautiful and I quietly enjoyed it

Thursday June 20th We left Water hole at 7 Ocl in the morning and marched 34 miles to Sand Creek the day was a very favorable one for the long march

We passed an old encampment where a Mr. Brown passed last winter in his wagons. after all his animals had perished in the snow -The same man was captured by the Indians some time since and taken out to be killed. when he selected his prettiest mule (a little white one) and presented it to the Chiefs wife she became interested in him from that and saved his life. the Indians then gave him a pass a mule & a few provisions and allowed him to go -the squaw who saved his life was the one who took a fancy to my ring; she was pretty & neat looking she had the white mule with her. Mr. Smith wished to buy it

Friday June 21 st The men & animals being so much fatigued from the long march of yesterday we did not leave camp till 8 Ocl. and after a hard march of only ten miles encamped at the lower Cimarrone Spring water brackish -

Saturday June 22 -Left Cimarrone Spring at 6 Ocl marched 20 miles & encamped on the bed of the Cimarrone where we dug for water & attained some pretty good &very clear -Near sun down Mr Aubry's18 train arrived from Santa Fe & encamped near us -by it I sent my journal home

Sunday June 23rd We left Camp on the Cimarrone at 6 Ocl and marched 20 miles and encamped near Miracle spring of the Cimarrone -To day we noticed the first appearance of Volcanic rock the day has been pretty warm to those exposed to the sun but to me it has been pleasant & now while I am writing in the Ambulance there is a pleasant breeze We have passed numerous dog towns and have seen the dogs & their neighbor owls sitting at the hole of their habitation into which they run on our approach

Monday June 24th Two days since I sent you six pages of my journal by Mr. Aubry's train in route to the States. We left Miracle Spring on the Cimarrone at 6 Ocl Marched 13 miles and are encamped on the Cimarrone still, awful water. I am told I have· not tasted it and do not intend to The roads are heavy & sandy the mules by degrees failing

Tuesday 25th We have marched 15 miles to day this sand, heat, & flies to the last Crossing of the Cimerrone -We encamped about 2 Ocl the heat intense -We passed a large pile of Mule sculls to day. it is said 180 perished there last winter in the snow -a party of Merchants overtook us this morning they have joined us for their protection thro the dangerous defiles -I feel less afraid now than when we first started being more accustomed to this savage life -

Wednesday 26th We are encamped at Cold spring this evening after a pleasant march of 18 miles I enjoy my ambulance more & more each day particularly as Mrs. Graham shares it with me a few hours each day. We took a grand sleep together this morning and when we got up we enjoyed our lunch -it is the most sociable pleasant time we have during the day, we have good water this evening, plenty of wood. Miserable grass at the sight of our Camp. there is a high hill before which the Guard tents are pitched and the guard marching back & forth gives it quite a picturesque appearance -We are approaching the little mountains & I rejoice in them and breeze

Thursday 27th We passed the day at Cold Spring the heat intense-

Friday 28th Left Cold Spring with renewed strength and spirits -after our rest yesterday marched 16 miles, are encamped at Cedar Spring pretty good water now. poor grass the day as usual extremely hot the nights are always cool and so it is in the morning early. every day is alike and nothing to make a journal interesting. one of the men killed an antelope

Saturday 29th Left Cold Spring at 4 Ocl this morning having a long march of 24 miles before us the Maj and the Doct. thought an early march advisable tho' there is generally great diversity of opinion as to the best time for starting. The Dragoons prefer a late start on account of their horses, and in this they are Seconded by the Quarter Master who thinks of his mules. The Infantry like an early start to avoid the heat of the day I can stump for an early start particularly now that I have a most comfortable bed made up on the back of my Ambulance where I can sleep to my hearts content -I have taken two walks to day but I do not think I shall attempt it again the roads are too sandy and the whole earth in this county is covered with Cacti and a kind of palmetto as to render a walk anything but agreeable -We have passed thro a hilly mountainous country to day much more interesting than the dead level over which we have lately travelled -We passed McNees Creek to day called after a man by that name who was murdered there19 his grave is near the Creek -

One of our cows has become lame from the long journey and the Maj is having shoes put on her this morning I think it cannot be a pleasant undertaking for the men who are shoeing her as every now & then she gives a most vigorous kick at them -I am in hopes we shall get our cows thro' safely as I wish to make our own butter Our encampment is near Rabbit ear

Sunday June 30th We started at 6 Ocl this morning and have travelled 28½ miles encamped at Rock Creek fine water, no wood, and poor grass -the day has been cool & pleasant -our tents are just pitched and the fire made. it is near sun down the teams are nearly worn out -We have the Raton mountains constantly before us now and farther off the Spanish peak covered with snow -I never thought I should be as near the Rocky mountains as I am but here I am seeing their distant grandeur

Monday July 1st 1850 Started from Rock spring at 7 Ocl and marched 8 miles to Whetstone Creek where we encamped at 11 Ocl the heat as usual intense for a few hours -a party of Dragoons are sent a short distance ahead to day to reconnoitre the Indian[s] in this vicinity but no Indians were discovered - We are within five days travel of Las Vegas

Tuesday July 2nd Left Whetstone Creek at 6 Ocl marched 20 miles to Water pool very poor water & scarcely sufficient for the animals -We have water in our packs for our own use, some of our neighbors have none We are encamped now 2 Ocl three miles beyond Point of Rocks scene of the White tragedy20 which we passed this morning We did not see the sculls of the murdered party so conspicuously displayed in the sand as I expected to from what I had been told -The Maj however found a scull with a beautiful set of teeth -farther on we saw holes dug for the defence of a party of Mexicans who accompanied White and who were likewise killed -the party seven in number was three days ahead of their company when they were surprised by the Indians -The place seems the most favorable for an ambuscade that we have seen on the journey -

Wednesday July 3rd We started this morning at 6 Ocl marched 21½ miles to Ocati Creek five miles from Red river, at the river we filled our Casks with water as that in the Ocati is salt, grass poor and a scanty supply of pine used the first we have been able to obtain since leaving the Arkansas In Maj Kendricks21 notes he maintains this as a desirable place for a Settlement I think differently

Thursday July 4th Left Ocati at 6 Ocl marched 20 miles & encamped at 2 Ocl at Wagon mount Santa Clara spring. delightful water plenty of grass. no wood -soon after our tents were pitched we had quite a severe hail storm The Doct is the only· one who has had a merry making in honor of the day he made egg nog for all of us -he has kept very quiet about those eggs he had been saving up for this occasion-It has cleared off delightfully and we shall encounter less dust tomorrow in consequence of the storm -At this place the Express mail men eleven in number were murdered about a month since -The Spring here is called Santa Clara, it is the best water we have had on the route, grass pretty good, no wood -Maj Grear22 reconnoitering about 15 miles from this place

Friday July 5th Left Wagon mount at 6 Ocl marched 22 miles to a small creek three miles from Mora -a short time after we started this morning we passed the place where the eleven men were murdered & buried many things were found on the spot that gave evidence of the terrible conflict broken arms, arrow heads, bones, pieces of clothing, scraps of paper &c -The Maj found a copper coin Marked “The free state of Chuhuahua” value about three cts and a quarter -on the other side there is an Indian represented with a bow in one hand & an arrow in the other-

Saturday July 6th Left the Creek near Mora at 6 Ocl crossed the Mora river in an hour. I saw the first adobe house soon after crossing and some men making adobes to finish it. there were two women standing at the door, and some Peons watching the flocks -I suppose we are now fairly in New Mexico and I confess I am a little disappointed in the first Mexican Settlement We marched 22 miles to day and are encamped on the hill in front of the town of Las Vegas -the town looks very much like a brick yard tho' I am told those that have [?] are very comfortable inside The first acquaintance I met was Lt Barton23 whom I saw last at Poremas [?] Island - Col Alexander24 very kindly invited all the families to his house -Mrs. Graham and Smith accepted the invitation. We remained in Camp

They are building an adobe church here the whole town are obliged to turn out every Saturday and work on it or pay a fine of $2.00 the grave yard is near our encampment surrounded by a stone wall -I am told it is very healthy here the winter very cold, they had snow in June -Col & Mrs Alexander called on us in the evening -

Sunday July 7th Col and Mrs A. called in their carriage this morning for me to go home with them and pass the day which I did very pleasantly Mrs Smith also went -their house has a cool comfortable look all in a plain way I know now exactly how to fix a Mexican house, a wealth of paper or canvas is indispensible around the wall and the little fire places in the corner I particularly admire The wood is put in endwise Las Vegas is the most lonesome looking place I ever saw and has fewer attractions -there is nothing pleasant to cast the eye on for a moment not a tree a shrub or a flower, nothing but black [?] mud walls -They have a hotel at the place called the American-

Monday July 8th Left Las Vegas at 7 Ocl rode thro the town then I stopped to say good bye to the Alexanders We are now finally over the plains, as we were soon in the pine woods after starting -We marhed 11 miles to Tacalote, had a delightful ride and enjoyed the scenery very much. I think some of the Passes almost equal to Harpers ferry which boasts the most grand & beautiful scenery in our Country when we arrived at Tucalote [Tecolote] we drove to the town and were kindly invited to the house of an American, a Mr. McClure who is postage Master -he told me he was acquainted with you Father and desired to be remembered to you We passed the day with them so did Mrs. Graham and we were kindly and hospitably entertained and I assure you we enjoyed the comforts of a house once more. Mr McClure married a pretty American girl in Santa Fe her Father had moved there a year before and is now in California her Mother and sister are with her -I gave Mrs McClure my sun bonnet as she fancied it -Mr. McClure has the carriage Mrs White was in when captured Lt Field lost three horses at Las Vegas two private & one public -Our Mexican had $70 stolen from his trunk -he was taking it to his daughter in Santa Fe

Tuesday July 9th Left Tucolate at 7 Ocl marched to San Miguel and halted an hour at Pecos river then proceeded four miles farther to San Jose where we encamped -the day being very warm and oppressive we (together with Mrs. Graham & her son) were glad to avail ourselves of the grateful shade of the Mexican adobe -the most uninteresting place from the out side I am sure -We entered a low door way and found ourselves in as cool a house as we were in before lounges and beds all around the room, no chairs, the mud floor was covered with buffalo robes & other skins -The walls hung with Images, pictures of Saints, Crosses, looking glasses and rosetts made of paper -the whole arrangement was neat & orderly We were received by a good looking Mexican woman, who seated herself on the floor and busied herself making cigaretes & smoking them -She took little pieces of shucks from under the skins on the floor & filled them with tobacco from a paunch on her side her daughter a fine looking girl of fifteen always brought her fire to light her Cigaretes and altogether they were the most indolent looking set I have ever seen -I sent up to our tent for some sugar which I gave the woman and with “Muchos gracias” bade her good bye -I find the mountain air much more agreeable than that of the plains and the grateful shade of the pine & cedar trees make our marches less warm tho' everyone looks a little fagged & anxious to get thro' -at Santa Fe we all separate

Wednesday July 10th Left San Jose at 6 Ocl marched 23 miles and encamped at Cotton wood the most pleasant camp we have had on the entire route water good and cold -We stopped at Pecos springs to water the animals, and then rode on (about three hundred yds.) to view the ruins of the Church of Pecos. as it is very well described in Col. Emory's Report I shall not attempt it -except to say the walls are still standing and the church is built in form of a cross. the carving about it is mad but altogether it must have been quite an imposing looking church in its day -Three months to day since I left home. We are now 20 miles from Santa Fe -

Thursday July 11th Left Cotton wood at 6 Ocl encamped at I Ocl ½ mile from Santa Fe to the left of the town -I remained in my ambulance in camp till the Maj rode in town to see Col Munroe25 and find out our quarters -The first acquaintance I saw was Capt Sykes26 he rode up to the ambulance to see me but I did not recognise him at first-he is much stoughter than when I saw him last -We are quartered in the house of the Prefect Anton Ortiz27 one of the wealthiest men of the town -the room that I occupy has a mud floor partly carpeted one window Mexican fashion the room is cool & comfortable and has nineteen looking glasses in it, to say nothing of my two -Segnior Ortiz called on the Maj last evening and embraced him very affectionately -The Dr. came in a few moments after and received a like embrace

Friday July 12th I am not at all disappointed in the appearance of Santa Fe it is the most miserable squalid looking place I ever beheld except the Plaza there is nothing decent about it -Tho' all I have seen as yet was in riding thro' the town to reach our habitation which is located in the suburbs -The houses are mud, the fences are mud, the churches & courts are mud, in fact it is all mud -

There are more corn fields & gardens almost than I expected to see and some pretty trees Capt. Sykes called to see me this morning he leaves for the States on the 15th together with several other officers & Mrs. Capt. Reynolds28 -We are to remain here for the present as Col. Munroe intends putting the Maj on a Court Martial I am glad of the opportunity to rest myself for a march of 52 days is enough to try out any one -

Col MCall Maj Kendrick & Lt. Peck29 called to see me this evening they are all waiting in durance vile to be relieved & all agree in despising the country & everything in it I believe -

Saturday July 13th Doct Edwards30 called to see me he is relieved by Dr. McD. and leaves on the 15th he is a personable gentlemanly man -I had a delightful Serenade last night from the 3rd Inf band -Capt & Mrs. Reynolds called. Mrs. R. is going to the States if she does not change her mind as she has done several times before -Lt & Mrs. Thomas31 called he is an agreeable man is rich & lives handsomely I am told he has been married about two months -his wife is very young and retiring

Sunday July 14th One of the teamsters was shot by a sentinal last night he did not answer when hailed Monday July 15th Capt Sykes called to bid me good by it made me quite homesick to see him going to the States and direct to my dear home -Mrs Easton had a daughter born this morning -An artillery Soldier shot himself last night being as he said weary of life.

Tuesday 16th I was sick & low spirited. took a short walk in the evening -

Wednesday 17th I went in town to see Mrs Thomas & Mrs Graham -I was surprised to hear Mrs Smith had left without even calling to say goodbye I sent my letters to the office this evening the mail leaves early in the morning

1 Maj. Charles McDougall was an Ohioan and West Point's physician from 1846 to 1848, when he was sent west. Thomas H. S. Hamersly, Complete Regular Army Register of the United States for One Hundred Years, (17791879), (Washington, D.C., 1880), p. 618. Hereafter referred to as Army Register,' also Appleton's Cyclopaedia of American Biography (New York, 1888), IV, p. 108, hereafter referred to as Appleton, Biography.

2 Capt. Langdon Cheves Easton was in the Quartermaster Department. His wife, a close friend of Anna Maria Morris, was pregnant during most of the journey. Easton had a long military career through the Civil War and afterwards. Army Register, p. 421; Leo E. Oliva, Soldiers on the Santa Fe Trail (Norman, Okla., 1967), p. 114

3 William G. Ritch, a prominent citizen of New Mexico who later became Territorial Secretary. Robert W. Larson, New Mexico's Quest for Statchood, 1846-1912 (Albuquerque, 1968), p. 138.

4 Capt. Charles Swain Lovell, a son of Massachusetts, held rank in the 6th Infantry. Appleton, Biography, IV, p. 35; Oliva, Soldiers, p. III.

5 Mr. Henry and his wife (see June 7 entry) are so far unidentified.

6 Maj. Edwin Vose Sumner, a Boston-born officer, was Military Commandant of New Mexico and later served as acting Governor. He became II Brigadier-General early in the Civil War and was highly decorated. He died of natural causes on March 21, 1863. His biography, written by Thomas M. Spaulding, was published in the Dictionary 01 American Biography (hereafter referred to as D. A. B.), Vol. XVIII (New York, 1936), pp. 214-15.

7 Lt. Charles W. Field, of the 2nd Dragoons, was in charge of 75 1st Dragoons, recruits. Louise Barry, The Beginning 01 the West, Annals 01 the Kansas Gateway to the American West, 1540-1854 (Topeka, 1972), pp. 894-95.

8 Maj. James D. Graham was a Virginian who started his military career as a 3rd Lt. of Artillery many years before, in July 1817. He transferred to the Topographical Engineers in 1829, and this was the work, he was associated with in New Mexico. He took part in the survey of both southern and northern boundaries of the United States. Army Register, p. 470.

9 Not identified among the many Campbells.

10 Lt. Beverly H. Robertson was in the Second Dragoons with the overland party. Army Rellister, p. 725.

11 Lt. John Grubb Parke had just graduated from West Point, second in the 1849 class of 43 cadets. He would go on to serve as an engineer and astronomer in the western surveys. D. A. B., XIV (New York, 1934), 211-12.

12 Lt. and Asst. Surgeon David L. Magruder, a Marylander, had just achieved his rank on February I, 18S0. He went on to have a long military career through the Civil War and beyond. Army Register, p. 598.

13 Capt. William H. Saunders did not die on this journey. Army records indicate that this Virginia-born officer resigned on June 20, 1851. Army Register, p. 742.

14 Col. Aeneas McKay (or Mackay) was an important officer in the Quartermaster Department who died May 23, 1850. Fort McKay at Cimarron Crossing (later called Fort Atkinson), was established soon after his death. Oliva, Soldiers, p. 95.

15 Maj. Haynes is so far unidentified. The assumption in reading this part of the diary would seem to be that the horse "hung himself,” somehow in a tangled harness situation.

16 This is the noted trapper-guide, Thomas Fitzpatrick, who left the Arkansas Crossing on June 10 and arrived in St. Louis on June 26. Leroy R. Hafen, Broken Hand, The Life of Thomas· Fitzpatrick: Mountain Man, Guide and Indian Agent (Denver, 1973), p. 277.

17 Daniel T. Chandler had been made a Brevet Lt. Col. in ]846 for “gallant and meritorious conduct” at Monterey. Army Register, p. 353.

18 This was the noted Frenchman out of Quebec, Fran·ois X. Aubry, who was dubbed by his biographer Donald Chaput, “the busiest, most effective merchant on the Saint Louis-Santa Fe-Chihuahua-California routes.” Francios X. Aubry, Trader, Trailmaker and Viyageur in the Southwest, 1846-1854 (Glendale, Calif., 1975), p. 11.

19 Two young men, McNees and Monroe, had been killed at this place by Indians in the autumn of 1828. The story is best told by Stanley Vestal, The Old Santa Fe Trail (Boston, 1939), pp. 190-91.

20 James M. White was an Independence merchant who with his wife, Ann (Dunn) White, their daughter Virginia, employees and fellow travelers, suffered attack by the Apaches at Point of Rocks on October 23, 1849. White and several men were killed, and mother and daughter and black maid were taken captive. In November 1849, when a military search party caught up with the Indians, the three women were also killed. Beginning of the West, p. 885.

21 Maj. Henry L. Kendrick had taken two arti11ery companies over the trail to Santa Fe the year before in the summer of 1849. He published a table of marches for the route. Beginning of the West, pp. 869-70.

22 Maj. William Nicholson Grier graduated from the Military Academy in 1835, had participated in the War with Mexico, and was then serving in New Mexico. Appleton, Biography, II, p. 763.

23 2nd Lt. Seth M. Barton was a Virginian, at this time serving in the First Infantry, Army Register, p. 285.

24 Col. Edmund B. Alexander, a Virginian, was the Commandant of Las Vegas. His wife is so far unidentified. Oliva, op. cit., p. 105.

25 Col. John Munroe was by birth a Scot. He had been General Zachary Taylor's Chief of Cavalry in the War with Mexico. He was Military and Civil Governor of New Mexico from October, 1848, to July, 1851. Appleton, Biography, IV, p. 461.

26 Capt. George Sykes had been active in the Mexican War. He served for several years later in the Southwest. His wife was Elizabeth (Goldsborough) Sykes of Cambridge, Maryland. D. A. B., XVIII (New York, 1936), 255.

27 James J. Webb, in his Journal of a Santa Fe Trader, wrote of the Ortiz family that they “were considered ricos, and those most respected as leaders in society and political influence; but idleness, gambling, and the Indians had made such inroads upon their means and influence that there was but little left except the reputation of honorable descent from a wealthy and distinguished ancestry"; Ralph P. Bieber, Southwest Historical Series, I (Glendale, California, 1931), pp. 91-92.

28 Capt. Alexander Welch Reynolds was in charge of the quartermaster's program for convoying units from Santa Fe to various frontier localities. Later in life, he resigned his commission and fought for the Confederacy throughout the Civil War. D. A. B., xv (New York, 1935), p. 516.

29 Lt. John J. Peck, an artilleryman, had been active in the War with Mexico. He would leave Santa Fe very shortly and be reported in Missouri by mid-October. Beginning of the West, p. 911.

30 Dr. Lewis A. Edwards was a military doctor. He served during both the War with Mexico and the Civil War, from 1846 to 1816. Army Register, P.424.

31 Lt. Francis J. Thomas, a Virginian, served a short four-year career in the Artillery. He had joined on July I, 1844, and would resign on June 30, 1852. Army Register, p. 804.