Fifty Places to Rock Climb Before You Die: Climbing Experts Share the World’s Greatest Destinations

Images — *Climber Kris Irwin takes in the view of Lake Louise in Alberta’s Banff National Park on Back in the Saddle (5.11b)*.

Alberta

BOW RIVER VALLEY

The Bow River Valley—both inside and outside of Banff National Park—provides one of the most beautiful alpine settings in the world, and a variety of excellent rock climbing opportunities. But for Ellen Powick, its appeals were not immediately obvious. “I grew up in nearby Calgary and as a kid was not really an outdoorsy person,” she began. “As they say, you don’t fully appreciate a place until you move away. Well, I moved east for university and realized how great the west was. Then I got introduced to climbing in my mid-twenties and started to spend time exploring climbing areas around Canmore. I mostly sport climb, but I do enjoy some traditional and multi-pitch climbing as well. At the time, there was already a fair amount of development, and it was a great place to cultivate my skills. However, it still seemed like there was more climbing, better climbing, and a longer rock season elsewhere, so after my husband and I got married, we took a year off work and explored the United States for climbing. We became more competent climbers and ended up moving to Utah so that we could take advantage of climbing year-round. Twenty-four years later I am still as obsessed and passionate about climbing as ever. With family still in Calgary, I visit every summer and I take the time to climb in the Bow River Valley while I am there. Over the past ten years, there’s been a lot of climbing development, so there are always some new climbs to check out when I visit. I have to say that the Canadian Rockies are a great escape from 100-degree summer temperatures back home in Utah.”

Canmore rests roughly fifty miles west of Calgary, and a few miles shy of the east entrance to Banff National Park. The region from Canmore through Banff on to Jasper is marked by incredibly scenic valleys, meadows, glaciers, icefields, and mountains; driving the Icefields Parkway that connects Banff with Jasper National Park to the north, it seems the vista at each turn is the most beautiful you’ve ever witnessed . . . until you reach the next bend! Wildlife is also abundant, including black and grizzly bear, elk, moose, caribou, bighorn sheep, and wolves. The area around Canmore and Banff National Park came to be known as an outdoor recreation paradise thanks in large part to the Canadian Pacific Railway. The railroad, completed in 1885, created a supply of westbound train seats from the eastern population centers; the railway did not underestimate the region’s appeal, and it soon gained an international reputation.

While hikers and sightseers are drawn to Banff, climbers tend to focus their energies on the many crags around Canmore—in large part, because much of the rock in Banff is of less than exceptional quality. In fact, it’s been said that Banff has the worst rock in North America that still gets climbed, though there are certainly notable exceptions, like the quartzite at the Back of Lake Louise and the dolomite at Castle Mountain. “The rock is mainly limestone around Canmore,” Ellen continued, “so the sport climbing is amazing, especially in the harder grades. Recently, there’s been a lot of multi-pitch development in the area, particularly in moderate grades, so there is something for everyone.”

Of the 25-plus crags around Canmore, Acéphale is one of the most beloved. A mix of blue and gray limestone, it offers up forty-five routes, mostly 5.12 and above, split between two sectors. “The Lower and Upper Wall have different styles, but are both excellent,” Ellen enthused. “There are many, many good routes to choose from.” The Lower Wall tends to have a bit more variety and attainable grades; the Upper offers more powerful, intense climbs, including several of the hardest routes in the Canmore area. Echo Canyon is another favorite, with more than 140 bolted routes and more still being developed. “One of my favorite walls there is Atlantis at the Lookout sector,” she said. “I love the routes here—blocky, with pinches that make it sometimes feel like Rifle Canyon back in Colorado, only far from the road and not as greasy. I also like the Planet X Wall in Cougar Canyon. My favorite route there is Shooting Star, a classic 5.12d. It’s worth mentioning that the crags around Canmore have a longer approach than most sport climbers are used to. Acéphale is forty-five minutes; some, like Echo Canyon, can be twice as long. Because of the length of the approach, we’ll usually take a little time to cool off after the hike, and do a few easier climbs before tackling a project. Two or three burns on a project and it’s usually time to quit, as the hikes out take longer than you’d expect.”

While the Bow River Valley is best known for its sport climbing, there are certainly some worthy multi-pitch climbs. One that appeals to Ellen is Hoka Hey (5.9), on the South Peak of Mount Cory in Banff. “It’s a 1,350-foot climb over nine pitches, and mostly bolt-protected,” she described. “I also like Beautiful Century [5.10a], which is on the Nanny Goat crag. It’s 750 feet over seven pitches, and it’s also bolted.” Bow River Valley climbers have also long looked to Yamnuska (also known as Mount John Laurie), one of the centers of Canadian Rockies trad climbing. This massif, just north of the Bow River, has more than two hundred lines, ranging from 5.4 to 5.13.

Should you choose to take a day off from the walls, many outdoor diversions await. Hiking in Banff is world class, and the Plain of the Six Glaciers trail, which heads at Lake Louise, is one of North America’s great walks. For something a bit less strenuous, you could rent a canoe and paddle the lake’s turquoise waters, or simply hoist an ale at the Lakeview Lounge at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise and take in the vistas.

ELLEN POWICK has been climbing since 1996 and has climbed routes to 5.14b. Her adventures have taken her across the United States, and abroad to Greece, Spain, France, Slovenia, and Switzerland. When she’s not developing security software, Ellen’s out on the rocks or training in the gym. A Canadian ex-pat, she lives in Utah with her husband, Kolin, and Labrador, Rumple.

If You Go

▶ Getting There: Calgary is roughly fifty miles from Canmore and served by many major carriers. Banff is another fifteen miles west from Canmore Road.

▶ Best Time to Visit: Climbing in lower elevation areas is possible from May to October. At elevations over eight thousand feet, the season is mid-June through September.

▶ Level of Difficulty: There’s a range of options around Canmore and Banff for both sport and trad climbers.

▶ Guides: There are a number of guidebooks for the area, including Bow Valley Sport (Derek Galloway). Several guide services offer climbing; see a partial list at www.tourismcanmore.com.

▶ Accommodations: The Alpine Club of Canada (www.alpineclubofcanada.ca) offers simple, affordable rooms. Tourism Canmore Kananaskis (www.tourismcanmore.com) lists motel, hotel, and camping options in the region.