Fifty Places to Rock Climb Before You Die: Climbing Experts Share the World’s Greatest Destinations

British Columbia

SQUAMISH

When the gorges of the East Coast and the canyon country of the Southwest become too humid or hot to climb comfortably, many look north and west to British Columbia and the granite walls of Squamish.

“Squamish is a world-class granite destination,” Katy Holm began. “We’re fortunate to have some of the highest-quality rock around. Historically, it has been trad climbing that brings people to Squamish. There’s solid rock to satisfy a broad range of abilities, and plenty of quality climbs from 5.7 to 5.13 and beyond. There’s a reason some of the best climbers in the world show up here in the summer months—though there’s a lot for people starting crack climbing too. In recent years, bouldering has really blown up around Squamish. And there’s some fine sport climbing too. Another special thing about the region as a climbing destination is the town itself. Squamish is a place where people enjoy hanging out in the summer. There are tons of bakeries, breweries, coffee shops, and other nice amenities. Though people have been coming here for outdoor sports recreation for a while—Squamish is also known for its kitesurfing, windsurfing, and mountain biking—it’s still not that touristy. Part of the attraction is it doesn’t have the glitz of a place like Whistler.”

Squamish rests on the western edge of the province of British Columbia, midway between the city of Vancouver and the aforementioned ski mecca of Whistler. Tucked against the northeastern edge of Howe Sound, the town takes its name from the Squamish Nation, a First Nations people that historically inhabited the southern coast of the province. From a climber’s perspective, Squamish first and foremost means Stawamus Chief—or simply, the Chief—a granitic monolith that looms nearly 2,300 feet above the town and the sound. The first known ascents on the Chief were recorded in the late 1950s, which is when the first highway from Vancouver opened up, thus initiating Squamish’s slow transformation from lumber town to outdoor destination. (That stretch of highway—now known as the Sea to Sky corridor—is considered one of North America’s most scenic coastal drives.) The first ascents of one of the Chief’s main attractions, the Grand Wall, were achieved by Ed Cooper and Jim Baldwin in 1961. Since then, more than three hundred routes have been identified on the Chief . . . though it’s certainly not the only game in town.

“For beginning climbers, I love an area called the Smoke Bluffs,” Katy continued. “It’s a little zone of crags that are dotted throughout a forested hillside. There are hundreds and hundreds of single-pitch climbs that can be top-roped or lead-climbed, overlooking the sound. You can find your own little zone in there, and it’s a pretty area—a little wonderland. Climbers of greater skill can progress to Shlanay [known to some as the Squaw], another great chunk of granite. Shlanay has lots of high-quality five-pitch climbs, perfect for half-day excursions. One ascent I like there is Jungle Warfare [5.10a]. One of my favorites is the Great Game [four-hundred-foot elevation, 5.10c/d]. There are some bolted anchors near the top now, though when I first did it, there weren’t any. You had to follow the weaknesses in the monolith and manage your gear right so you didn’t get to the top and find yourself with nothing left. The sense of adventure was great.”

More advanced climbers—or strong intermediates with a stomach for exposure—will next make their way to the Chief and Squamish’s most celebrated route, the Grand Wall (5.11a). As the Mountain Project website has noted, this ascent “has it all: perfect rock, great setting, runout slab, stellar crack, strenuous laybacking, delicate face, and many variations.” As Katy puts it, “The Grand Wall goes right up the heart of the Chief. It’s really a classic. The quality of the rock for every pitch [generally nine as you gain a thousand feet] is incredible, and there’s great diversity of climbing and movement to reach the top. When you look over your shoulder, you see the Sound backed by mountains. I have some fine memories of that climb, the feeling of moving over the granite, the warmth of the early evening sun when you’re on the top, sore and satisfied, the view over Howe Sound as the sun begins to set. If you want more punishment, you can tackle University Wall [5.12], another classic that’s a test piece for the best climbers.”

A lot of route development is happening in Squamish with many beginner to advanced routes developed each year. If you want to get away from the crowds, newer areas are a good idea. Free topos of newer routes can be found on Quickdraw Publications’ website and the Squamish Rock Guides’ blog. Or come into Climb On, the local climbing store, and ask the staff for ideas. If you are in Climb On, consider donating to the bolt fund, which supports local route development. When you combine the three hundred-plus routes on the Chief with the Climbs at Shlanay, Smoke Bluffs, and other venues, there are over 1,200 rock climbing routes in the Squamish area—not to mention double that number of bouldering problems, many near the base of the Grand Wall.

Part of the appeal of climbing around Squamish is enjoying the total experience of Squamish. Katy described how she might entertain a visiting climber. “I’d start the day with a nice cup of coffee at one of the coffee shops we have in town. Counterpart Coffee and 1914 are two good ones, and Tall Tree Bakery has great pastries. Since most of the bigger climbs are between five and fifteen pitches, and the summer days are long, you don’t need to get going at five A.M. to get your climbing in. You can enjoy a leisurely coffee, do a world-class climb, and have a nice meal afterward. If you’ve got the skills, you should definitely tackle the Grand Wall. I’d also recommend a day of bouldering. And the Pet Wall—short for ‘petrifying’—offers some fine granite sport climbing. I’d also leave a day to visit one or our beautiful mountain lakes. As for dinner, Essence of India, Saha Lebanese food, several sushi restaurants, and the Coppercoil Grill are just a few of a number of good places to eat. If drinks is what you are after, there are two local breweries, Back Country and A-Frame, and a few cideries in town, which also serve delicious food. For dinner with a view, consider Watershed Grill, which is right on the Squamish River. There might be seals in the river, and you’re looking up at the Tantalus Range. And there are festivals going all summer long, with live music.”

KATY HOLM began climbing as a twelve-year-old girl when her whole family took a guided rock course at Fleming Beach bouldering area in Victoria, British Columbia. From that moment on, she knew she needed rock climbing in her life. Katy is an accomplished alpine and rock climber who has gone on many international expeditions, and is a co-owner of Climb On Squamish (climbonsquamish.com). Before Climb On, she spent ten years working for Mountain Equipment Co-op. These days Katy can be found projecting hard trad lines with her husband, Kelly, or teaching her daughter, Ruby, to climb at the Smoke Bluffs. She loves sea kayaking, skiing, and gardening.

If You Go

▶ Getting There: Squamish is roughly an hour from Vancouver, which is served by most major carriers.

▶ Best Time to Visit: The drier summer months attract most of Squamish’s climbing visitors.

▶ Level of Difficulty: With more than 1,200 climbs, Squamish offers something for everyone, though climbers hoping to tackle the bigger ascents on the Chief should have at least intermediate climbing skills.

▶ Guides: There are a number of guiding services around Squamish, including Squamish Rock Guides (604-892-7816; www.squamishrockguides.com). Several guidebooks are also available, including Squamish Select (Marc Bourdon) and The Climbers Guide to Squamish (Kevin McLane).

▶ Accommodations: There are many camping opportunities around Squamish, including Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground right at the Chief. Camping and other options are highlighted at Tourism Squamish (www.exploresquamish.com).