Fifty Places to Rock Climb Before You Die: Climbing Experts Share the World’s Greatest Destinations

Images — *Rob Moellering nears the top of Lost Pencil on Weasel Boys Arete, a 5.12b test piece*.

California

JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK

“There’s something about the energy of Joshua Tree that pulls me in,” Leslie Timms reflected. “The second I’m there, the rest of the world doesn’t exist. Joshua Tree seems like it’s been dropped from another planet—the vibe, the scenery, and the climbing. The grades are hard, the climbing is bold, and there’s such a rich history. Even though it’s one of the most visited climbing venues around, it feels very adventurous. There’s always a place you can wander to and be on your own. A life’s worth of climbing awaits. I’m the worst climber I can be when I’m there—it scares and humbles me that much. But at the same time, it’s a healing place—it puts things in perspective and grounds me. The feeling Joshua Tree gives off is unexplainable, and not everyone feels it. But for those who have that connection, the park is unlike anywhere else.”

Joshua Tree National Park spans nearly eight hundred thousand acres in southern California, roughly 140 miles east of Los Angeles. The park’s eponymous tree, which is a member of the agave family, received its name from Mormon settlers, who were reminded of the biblical figure Joshua by the tree’s limbs, which seemed to be outstretched in supplication. The high desert monzogranite of the Joshua Tree region once provided shelter in wintertime for Native American peoples. By the 1940s, it had been discovered by the Sierra Club’s Rock Climbing Section; by the 1950s, climbing pioneers like Royal Robbins and Mark Powell began exploring the seemingly endless opportunities available—more than eight thousand climbing routes and two thousand bouldering problems to date.

“At Joshua Tree, it’s as if a bunch of granite dinosaur eggs were dropped in the desert,” Leslie continued. “The formations are almost like rock sculptures. They take on different colors as the sun dances across the sky, casting shadows of different shapes. My first visit was part of my first-ever climbing trip. I came out of the climbing gym in Canada and did a U.S. tour with friends. We arrived at Hidden Valley, which is the hub of climbing at Joshua Tree. There’s a crazy energy there—L.A. hippies running around, dirtbag climbers from all over. Some seem to have been there for ages. We were sport climbers and boulderers at the time, of moderate skill. We got out on this 5.10 sport climb, and absolutely crapped our pants. We barely got to the top, almost in tears, and we didn’t know how to get down. But still we wanted to stay. Every year we’d go back, and get better and better. The climbs aren’t all that tall; you might be only sixty feet up, but you feel like you’re on the top of the world. Visiting Joshua Tree encouraged us to build the tools in our toolbox, and opened our eyes to real rock climbing.”

Leslie likes to warm up with some bouldering before tackling wall ascents. “There are some awesome circuits,” she said. “If you find the right circuits, you can go with your pad and experience some classic boulder problems. For me, it’s a dress rehearsal, a chance to remember the style of the cracks and practice for the big stuff.” For Leslie, the “big stuff” means Acid Crack, a classic 5.12 trad route on a high Southwest Face in the Real Hidden Valley. “John Bachar put that climb up in 1982,” she continued. “It was always a dream of mine to send that route. The day I first did it, I went with no expectations. I let go of everything and it all came together. When I summited, I had an out-of-this-world experience. I felt like Bachar was there with me. With Acid Crack done, I felt like I’d graduated to a new level. One of my fantasies was to be a Stone Master like John Bachar. Conquering Acid Crack was a big step in that direction.”

For many, the opportunity to hang out at Hidden Valley Campground is an essential part of the pilgrimage. “There are lots of fun little adventures you can have in the campground, and all the most famous climbing spots are in walking distance,” Leslie enthused. “It’s often full, you almost need to stalk it. And you’ve got to be there before the weekend.” There’s not much in the way of services around the park. For groceries, Leslie recommends heading to 29 Palms or Yucca Valley; for a meal out or a laundry stop, visit the town of Joshua Tree. “The best coffee place ever is there—Joshua Tree Coffee Company,” she added.

Leslie’s first successful summit of Acid Crack will always remain with her. But one of her more modest ascents also captures that elusive Joshua Tree vibe. “At Hidden Valley, there’s a little free solo climb up to a spot we call the Space Station,” she recalled. “It’s a giant hole in the rock and there’s room for people to sit and take in the scenery. I remember one season being up in the Space Station watching the sunset. It was perfectly aligned. As the sun was setting, a bluegrass band [that was staying in the campground] began to play. We just sat up there, as the band played, watching the stars beginning to emerge.”

LESLIE TIMMS is a professional rock guide and owner of On the Rocks Climbing Guides (www.ontherocksclimbing.com) in Thornbury, Ontario. She spends April through October each year running a successful climbing guiding company and teaching PCGI guide certification courses across Ontario (www.climbingguidesinstitute.org). Her days off from guiding are spent climbing and developing new routes along the Niagara Escarpment. During the Canadian winter months, Leslie and her husband hit the road with their thirteen-foot trailer, “Trilly,” to chase sun and climb rocks across the United States and the globe. Her most memorable ascent was getting the first ascent (FA) of the most difficult traditional/mixed route at Lions Head, Ontario: Above the Clouds (5.13b). Leslie is a fixture in the Ontario climbing community and continues to push herself to new levels in the sport, year after year.

If You Go

▶ Getting There: The closest airport to Joshua Tree is in Palm Springs, which is served by several carriers, including Alaska (800-252-7522; www.alaskaair.com) and United (800-864-8331; www.united.com). Los Angeles is about 140 miles west.

▶ Best Time to Visit: Mid-October to mid-May is prime time, when cooler temperatures grace the desert.

▶ Level of Difficulty: There are a tremendous variety of climbing options in Joshua Tree, from entry-level bouldering to 5.12+++.

▶ Guides: A number of guide services lead excursions in Joshua Tree. The National Park Service lists authorized guides at www.nps.gov/jotr/.

▶ Accommodations: There are eight campgrounds in Joshua Tree National Park; four (including Hidden Valley) are on a first-come/first-served basis. Modest motels are available in the towns of 29 Palms and Joshua Tree.