Jenna Balinski climbs Texas Tumble on the Dihedrals crag at El Potrero.

Mexico

EL POTRERO CHICO

RECOMMENDED BY Frank Madden

Come winter in many parts of the United States, sport climbers either renew their climbing gym memberships or trade in their shoes for skis. Another option—and a very good one—would be to head south to the town of Hidalgo in the state of Nuevo León, Mexico, to El Potrero Chico, perhaps the largest big-wall sport climbing destination in the world.

“I was getting ready to travel to the World Cup in Brazil, and was planning on doing some climbing in Central America on the way,” Frank Madden recalled. “A friend said I should check out Potrero Chico. As you’re approaching Hidalgo from Monterrey, there’s a striking contrast between the valley and the towering walls of Potrero Chico. For people who come in on a cloudy day or at night and wake up the next morning to see the jaw-droppingly massive cliff, it’s almost overwhelming. Potrero Chico is known for its big climbs—some are fifteen pitches, some over twenty. If you wanted to, you could get in one hundred pitches climbing just five or six routes over a few days. Walking five minutes from your car, you can climb one thousand feet.”

El Potrero Chico is roughly 120 miles from the U.S. border at McAllen, Texas, in the eastern Sierra Madre. The region was originally known as the headquarters of the multinational cement company that would become Cemex. The steep limestone walls here—some as tall as two thousand feet—were identified for their climbing potential in the late 1980s by Alex Catlin and Jeff Jackson. By the early 1990s, other Potrero pioneers—among them “Magic” Ed Wright, who bolted more than eighty routes—were putting up tough but accessible sport climbs around the “Little Corral.” There are now more than six hundred. “El Potrero is known for its moderate climbs, many in the 5.10 range,” Frank continued. “The most popular route for intermediate climbers is probably Estrellita, or ‘little star.’ It’s a 5.10b—though variations can take it to 5.10d—and is twelve pitches; the average climber can get up and down in five or so hours. There’s a lone palm tree up on the summit, and climbers love to get their picture taken up there. It’s a pretty easy climb for people with multi-pitch experience, though you’re up 1,200 feet. El Sendero Luminoso—“The Shining Path”—is a prestigious 5.12d route for more advanced climbers. It’s a commitment, 1,750 feet, and has fifteen pitches; some people will bivy overnight about halfway up.” If you find yourself at El Potrero with less of a hunger for multi-pitch routes, there are many single-pitch climbs available—both slab/vertical and overhanging rock.

It’s safe to say that the overall vibe at El Potrero Chico is different than what you might encounter at most sport climbing centers. “It’s one of the most welcoming, low-key climbing communities I’ve ever found,” Frank said. “It’s not on the pro climber circuit, and there aren’t any groundbreaking routes here—nothing over 5.13d yet. For those reasons, you don’t get the really technically oriented hard-core climbers here, so there’s not as much ego. A newer climber can sit down with some folks who have a lot more experience and feel welcome. The connection to the local community also makes El Potrero special. People from Hidalgo will come up to the canyon to watch the ‘crazy climbers.’ They’ll be blasting mariachi music and have a cooler of beer. When you come off the wall, they might share a Tecate or a shot of tequila. The connection between the climbers and the Hidalgo community is largely thanks to a local man named Homero Gutierrez Villarreal, who befriended early climbers.

“His home grew into the original climber campground at El Potrero, complete with a restaurant,” Frank added. “Other families followed suit, with little campgrounds and restaurants. Though Homero died in 2014, the tight-knit community remains. The local people envelop the climbers in a big hug. The longer you stay, the closer you get to the families. You really feel at home.”

The hearty meals you’ll find around El Potrero Chico will further strengthen your ties to the place. “Many of the meals are served taco style—meaning your pollo asado, carne asado, or cabra [goat] is served on a plate with corn tortillas, and you fill up the tortillas and eat,” Frank described. “There are a few places where you can get a taco or burrito and a margarita on the way down to town from the canyon. There are several places with great tamales, including Tamale Esperanza. And there’s a lady who makes massive hamburgers the size of a dinner plate that can easily feed two people. The sign out front says ‘Hamburguesas y Tortas,’ but everyone calls it ‘Face Burger.’ They cost about one hundred pesos [at this writing, about five dollars].

“The end of a climbing day at El Potrero is so satisfying. You sit down in camp or at a little cantina and have that first margarita or cold beer, waiting for your food to cook. You’re surrounded by other climbers from all over the States and beyond, and everyone’s in a joyful mood. And you’re looking up at the mountain that you were climbing just a few hours before.”

FRANK MADDEN started his climbing career in the Red River Gorge of Kentucky. He eventually found his way to the walls of El Potrero Chico. Though the nature of the climbing there couldn’t be more different than his years climbing in Red River Gorge, he fell in love. Frank’s love affair with EPC’s tall limestone walls led him to write his first guidebook, EPC Climbing: A Climber’s Guide to El Potrero Chico.

If You Go

▶ Getting There: The nearest airport (about an hour east of Potrero Chico) is in Monterrey, which is served by many carriers. From Monterrey, it’s roughly forty-five minutes to Hidalgo. (Bus transportation and rental cars are available.)

▶ Best Time to Visit: Conditions are best between November and May, with December through February prime time.

▶ Level of Difficulty: There are climbs from 5.7 to 5.14, single- and multi-pitch—so most sport climbers will find some good routes here.

▶ Guides: Several guidebooks are on the market, including EPC Climbing: A Climber’s Guide to El Potrero Chico (Frank Madden). El Potrero Chico Guides (802-922-4598; www.elpotrerochicoguides.com) leads climbers during the winter months.

▶ Accommodations: From camping to house rentals, PotreroChico.org provides an excellent overview of lodging options.