Climbers make their way up Moonlight Buttress in Zion National Park.

Utah

ZION NATIONAL PARK

RECOMMENDED BY Rachel Ross

“Zion is kind of the wilderness of the rock climbing world,” Rachel Ross began. “The routes aren’t as known, and it’s not a marketable commodity the way Yosemite is. Everyone has beta on Yosemite, but here, even routes that are not obscure might not have been done for three or six months. The sandstone is always changing, and you have to keep up with those conditions and know what preparations are necessary. That makes it always adventurous. I had been a boulderer in Michigan, where I grew up, and learned to trad climb in Zion. When I mention this to some people, they say, ‘You learned to climb in Zion and you’re still alive?’”

Zion National Park sits in the southwestern corner of Utah, not far from the borders of Nevada and Arizona. Its 232 square miles comprise some of the most picturesque canyon country in North America. With almost a five-thousand-foot variance between its highest and lowest elevations, Zion is home to a broad range of flora and fauna—conifers and mule deer at altitude, juniper and bighorn sheep in the canyons. Though much of the park is desert, Zion is watered by the Virgin River and its tributaries, water that has sustained human life here for more than ten thousand years. The Virgin has also helped carve the park’s Navajo sandstone cliffs, a rock type that’s common across much of the Colorado Plateau in southern Utah. In some places, the cliffs soar to two thousand feet.

“When many people think of desert climbing, it’s towers that come to mind,” Rachel continued. “There are a few towers in Zion, but mostly we have walls. It’s like the walls of Yosemite are meeting the environs of Jordan. In this respect, Zion is the stepchild of other Western climbing spots. It’s often hard to find other climbers here. In Yosemite, it’s sometimes hard to get away from them; here, you’re happy to come upon other climbers.”

Part of the “wilderness” character of Zion comes from the fact that many of the walls are far from the road. “The approaches definitely keep people away,” Rachel explained. “If people are new and visiting for a shorter amount of time, I try to recommend areas that are closer to the road. The Confluence, on the east-facing walls of the main canyon, is a good place to start. It’s a twenty- or thirty-minute hike in to reach a wall that looks out on the town of Springdale. There are tons of single-pitch routes here and a few multi-pitch as well. Confluence also has a few sport climbs, which are not common at Zion. Cerberus, which is also on the east-facing walls of the main canyon, has some classic intermediate routes. I really like Squeeze Play [5.10a] and Cynthia’s Handjob [5.10]. One downside of Cerberus is that since it’s right off the road, shuttle buses will often stop, and the driver will point out climbers on the wall. When they’re idling, you can’t hear what your partner is saying. On the more advanced side, there are a number challenging routes in the 5.11 class on the Watchman, a mountain in town. Iron Messiah [5.10b], on the Spearhead wall, is another test piece, a ten-pitch route that climbs one thousand feet.” If you’re itching to climb a tower, Ataxia is a good bet; Ashtar Command [5.9] is a popular route here.

The town of Springdale, which is just east of the park boundary, is a good base of operations. “There are lots of hotels and restaurants,” Rachel said, “and there’s nearby federal land if you don’t want to camp in the park. Parkhouse Café is the go-to breakfast spot. For dinner, there’s the Bit and Spur, which has Southwestern food and margaritas. Oscar’s Café is another dinner spot. It has the biggest burgers and sweet potato fries.”

If you need a break from climbing, Rachel would encourage you to try canyoneering. “On one level, it’s the exact opposite of climbing,” she explained. “I hated it at first—the idea of rappelling into a place where I might have to swim. But I’ve come to love it. I think it’s more problem-solving-oriented than climbing, and definitely more team-oriented. In climbing, you have to have a decent level of skills to get in trouble; in canyoneering, you don’t use your skills until you’ve dropped down and have to problem-solve. When I’m canyoneering, I feel like I’m interacting more with the environment, understanding how I fit in—can I bolt this rock? How deep is this water? When did it rain last? You see how the desert is constantly evolving.”

Rachel had conquered Iron Messiah before. But it was when she tackled the wall with a visiting friend that the magnitude of the accomplishment really resonated. “Taking my friend to Iron Messiah was a culmination of all my skills and all the things I love. First you have the approach, where you have to veer off the main trail into a no-man’s-land, scrambling over scree, grabbing on to bushes to hold on—an adventure in itself. When we started climbing, some of the holds I remembered from my previous climb were broken. When we reached the chimney pitches on the climb, we had to squeeze in and use our whole bodies—later you have bruises on your thighs! At the top, you’ve reached someplace that no one else can get to unless they’re climbing.

“For me, this is what rock climbing in Zion is all about.”

RACHEL ROSS is a photographer, videographer, and website designer, with an affinity for the desert and a passion for expeditions. She is a canyoneering guide based just outside Zion National Park whose adventures have taken her from Patagonia to Tibet. Rachel is an avid climber, canyoneer, runner, biker, and painter, and has been fortunate enough to combine these passions in different permutations to capture moments of adventure, joy, and creativity. Her clients include Adventure Pro Magazine, Goal Zero, Zion Adventure Company, Marriot International, and Dell Computers.

If You Go

▶ Getting There: The closest commercial airport is in St. George (an hour’s drive from the park), which is served by several carriers, including Delta (800-221-1212; www.delta.com) and United (800-864-8331; www.united.com).

▶ Best Time to Visit: Early spring and fall offer the best conditions.

▶ Level of Difficulty: There are options to suit climbers of a wide range of abilities, though there’s not an abundance of beginner terrain.

▶ Guides: Several outfitters guide climbers in Zion, including Zion Adventures (435-772-1001; www.zionadventures.com). Zion Climbing: Free and Clean (Bryan Bird) will help point you in the right direction, though be aware that conditions in the park change frequently.

▶ Accommodations: Camping is available in the park at Watchman Campground (877-444-6777; visit www.recreation.gov). Other lodging options in Springdale and surrounding towns are highlighted at Zion Canyon Visitors Bureau (www.zionpark.com).