Though it is not the park’s most technical climb, reaching the top of Grand Teton is still a prized accomplishment.

Wyoming

GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK

RECOMMENDED BY Rob Hess

The Teton Range, just north of Jackson, Wyoming, is not home to America’s tallest mountains, though its peaks may be the country’s most recognizable. Rising abruptly from the valley floor, its distinctive jagged tops are icons of the eponymous national park—and perhaps even the American West. Grand Teton, which measures 13,770 feet at its summit and rises some seven thousand feet from the valley floor, looms over it all.

“Anyone who has driven through Jackson Hole and looked to the west at Grand Teton can’t help but wonder, ‘What would it be like to be on top of that thing?’” Rob Hess began. “Most don’t have an opportunity, but a few do make it.”

Stretching forty miles and including thirteen peaks that eclipse eleven thousand feet, the Tetons are a paradise for mountaineers and rock climbers alike. “There’s a broad array of high-quality climbing experiences here,” Rob continued. “Some are day climbs, some are overnight, and some are a few nights. A couple of the single-day climbs are in Cascade Canyon. First you take a boat across Jenny Lake, then hike into the crags. One route we like is Guide’s Wall, which is an hour’s walk. Generally it’s a six-pitch climb, though there’s some variation. It can be anywhere from 5.6 to 5.9, depending on how we do it. There are some moderate towers at Ice Point and Storm Point. Symmetry Spire, at the north end of Jenny Lake, also has some nice objectives than can be done as a day trip.

“We operate a high camp on the route to the summit of Grand Teton, and this is home base for those climbing the Garnet Towers. The camp is at eleven thousand feet, and it’s a rigorous hike up—you gain four thousand feet over six hours. But you don’t have to carry much gear, as the camp at Corbet is well stocked. From here, there are many options. The Watchtower is nearby, and there are a variety of objectives here. Corkscrew [5.8+] is a spectacular six-pitch route. Fairshare Tower is equally close by. The route here [Crawl Along the Watchtower, 5.8] is eight pitches, and a little more mountaineering oriented. If you hike down farther past Watchtower, you’ll reach Irene’s Arête. It’s a striking tower when you look up from the meadows, one of the Tetons’ most iconic climbs, with clean cracks, airy, and continuous pitches, all among spectacular surroundings. [It’s named for Teton great Irene Beardsley (Ortenburger) who discovered this prize with John Dietschy in 1957.] Finally, there’s Red Sentinel, about twenty minutes from the camp. The Regular Route [5.7] is only three pitches, but one of the most dramatic pinnacles in the park. The first pitch props you on an arête, the next takes you to the north side of the pinnacle, and everything drops away. Then there’s one more pitch to the summit. When you rappel off, you’re dropping 180 feet, three quarters of which are free-hanging. It’s very dramatic.”

A different adventure awaits on Mount Moran, which is on the northern end of the range, a bit apart from the other Teton peaks. “This is a three-day trip, more alpine with some rock climbing,” Rob described. “The first day, you canoe across String and Leigh Lakes to the base of the mountain, and hike a couple thousand feet up to the CMC campsite. The next day, you climb the mountain. It starts with some scrambling to reach the top of a little tower called Drizzlepuss. From here, we downclimb into a notch. Then we continue on the CMC route [5.5] to the top. There’s lots of variation. It’s a very scenic trip on a less-traveled section of the Tetons.”

Though it’s not technically demanding, many climbers visiting the Tetons may still wish to knock off Grand Teton itself. For a group with less climbing experience, Rob recommends setting aside four days to successfully summit. Day one is the hike up the Lupine Meadows Trail to Corbet High Camp. Day two is about getting everyone comfortable with the technical aspects of rock climbing. “To make it to the top of Grand Teton, climbers need to execute three feats—technical scrambling, pitched climbing, and one rappel,” Rob explained. “We walk through these techniques on nearby Garnet Towers. We’ll often do our multi-pitch climb and rappel practice on Crawl Along the Watchtower. On day three, we usually get up by three A.M., have a good breakfast, and then start walking with headlamps. We descend to the climber’s trail and then begin gaining elevation. A fifty-foot fixed rope takes us to Lower Saddle. We’re usually here by five or 5:30. From here, it’s on toward Upper Saddle. At this point there’s some scrambling; it’s not especially difficult, but the consequences of a fall are serious, so people are roped up. We’re generally on Upper Saddle—thirteen thousand feet—by seven or 7:30, and the air is warming with the sunlight. At this point, we don our stack ropes and tie in for the two or three pitched climbs we have ahead. The last two hundred feet are an exposed, though fairly easy, scramble. Between 8:30 and 10:30, we’re on the summit. On a clear day, you can view fourteen different mountain ranges in four states!”

When you’re leaving Jackson Hole, you’ll be able to look up with pride.

ROB HESS is one of only several guides nationwide who is certified by the International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations (IFMGA), the foremost guide certification organization worldwide. He was the third American to climb Mount Everest without oxygen. Rob has also successfully guided Broad Peak (26,440 feet) in the Karakoram of Pakistan. He is the technical director of the American Mountain Guides Association, and in 2007 received their Outstanding Guide of the Year Award. Rob is an owner of Jackson Hole Mountain Guides.

If You Go

▶ Getting There: Jackson Hole Airport is served by Delta (800-221-1212; www.delta.com) and United (800-864-8331; www.united.com). Some visitors will fly into Salt Lake City (served by most major carriers) and drive to Jackson, approximately six hours.

▶ Best Time to Visit: Guided climbs of Grand Teton are led from June through mid-September. Climbs are weather-dependent. Visit www.nps.gov/grte regarding other hiking opportunities in Grand Teton National Park.

▶ Level of Difficulty: There’s a broad range of climbs here, from 5.5 up. Even inexperienced climbers can summit Grand Teton with the help of a guide.

Guides/Outfitters: Several outfitters lead climbs of Grand Teton, including Jackson Hole Mountain Guides (800-239-7642; www.jhmg.com).

▶ Accommodations: American Alpine Club’s Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch (https://lodging.americanalpineclub.org) provides affordable digs. Camping options in the park are highlighted at www.nps.gov/grte. The Jackson Hole Chamber of Commerce (307-733-3316; www.jacksonholechamber.com) lists lodging options in town.