Photo: Cliffs near Sidári |
Photo: Cliffs near Sidári |
HIGHLIGHTS | ACHARÁVI & RÓDA | ÁGIOS GEÓRGIOS, AFIÓNAS & ARILLÁS | BARÁTI & NISSÁKI | KASSIÓPI | PALEOKASTRÍTSA, LÁKONES & LIAPÁDESSerpentine roads lead to peaceful mountain villages, unmade tracks are a challenge to 4×4 drivers and mountain bikers. With its many old villages among the olive groves, the countryside in the northwest is more gentle. This is where herbs are sold and you can even enjoy wine tasting on the roadside. Panorama restaurants and a medieval castle offer wonderful views. There are also beaches for all tastes: mile-long stretches of fine sand in front of a flat hinterland or steep cliffs, small pebbly bays that can often only be reached by boat (and you do not need a license to rent one), and smooth chalk cliffs that you have to clamber down. The rustic cafés and idyllic village squares are the places to take a break and have a chat with the locals.
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Paleó Perithia  |
A village as it was in Venetian days |
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Canal d’Amour |
Legend has it that women who swim here can wish themselves a husband |
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Cape Drástis |
First the fairy-tale panorama and then a refreshing dip |
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Panagía Theotóku tis Paleokastrítas Monastery |
Corfu’s most beautiful monastery |
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Golden Fox |
Accommodation with a heavenly view |
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Angelókastro |
Romantic castle ruins and wild coastal scenery |
Acharávi (pop. 650) was originally a fishing village with its historical centre lying inland some 500 m from the coast; the old heart of Róda (pop. 370) is directly on the shore. Today, both are lively holiday destinations in the summer months. Acharávi has more shops, tavernas and top-class hotels; Róda’s advantage is its – very short – promenade along the shore. As is often the case in Greece, you won’t find any street names in these two villages. Orientation in Róda is quite simple; everything is concentrated around the coastal road and the short stretch connecting it to the island’s main road network. The old main road leading to the centre of Acharávi, that was once just a small village, is off a rather nondescript roundabout located on the road around the island.
In 1985, archaeologists unearthed the scanty remains of a Roman thermal bath. Experts can just about recognise the hypocaust floor supports. Hot air from an oven circulated between them – an early form of underfloor heating. Free viewing | Acharávi | left, on the main road to Róda
Romantically decorated taverna in a former olive mill on a green hill above Acharávi. Many northern-Greek specialities. Occasionally live music on Saturday and Sunday evenings. Daily, from 11am | Signpost off the main road | Expensive
Tables on the terrace of the more than 175-year-old warehouse are right on the shore. No other restaurant in Róda has a better location but the food is – like every-where else in Róda – mediocre at best. Daily, from 10am | Róda | On the coastal road in the village centre | Moderate
A real restaurant with real tablecloths, the glow of tea light candles, fresh flowers on the table and easy-listening music in the background. Add to this, multilingual, fast, polite service and fine cooking. Many dishes are served with tasty roast potatoes and the well-spiced tas kebab, a kind of stew with three types of meat, is outstanding. Large portions. Daily, from 5pm | Acharávi | At the roundabout | Expensive
Large selection of olive-wood objects worked on the lathe by the owner Polychrónis himself, presented with charm by his Dutch wife Paulien. On the road from the Dimítra Supermarket to the beach
The more than 6 km (3.7 mi) long beach of fine sand, with only a few pebbly patches, begins in Róda, makes its way past Acharávi and continues as Almirós Beach to the small island of Agia Ekaterini which can be reached over a footbridge. A 30-minute walk along a track will take you across the island to Ágios Spirídonas and, after another 15 minutes, you will reach the road around the island. You can then catch the bus back to Acharávi or Róda.
Guided two-hour tours on horseback are offered daily at 9am, 11am, 5pm and 7pm in Róda. The horses can be seen in a paddock on the road connecting the route around the island with the shore promenade.
There are water-sport facilities at the port in Róda and in front of the large hotels in Acharávi.
Pre-season – but even later there’ll be enough room for everyone on the beach in Acharávi |
Harry has been taking special care of his guests since 1981 and promotes communication at a reasonable price. You can watch all major sporting events on a large screen. Acharávi | At the east end of the old village road | www.harrysbar-corfu.com
 | LEMON GARDEN |
The most unusual restaurant in the north of the island is a place where guests of all ages and whole families gather under old lemon trees or an aromatic, traditional Corfiot wooden roof for breakfast, a drink or meal. Meat and fresh fish are grilled every day in the garden and you will almost feel like you are at a private garden party. You won’t find many places as atmospheric and personal as here (Restaurant: Moderate). Acharávi | On the main road, 50 m to the west of the roundabout
Lounge atmosphere between cacti and agaves in the beach bar that becomes a mecca for sunset freaks in the evening. Acharávi | Access from the EuroHire travel agency on the main road
Lacking a real discotheque, this small music bar with the apt name ‘Cheers!’ has become the evening meeting place for young holidaymakers and locals alike. Daily | Acharávi | At the roundabout
Beach hotel with five one and two-storey buildings. Beach bar and pool between the hotel and beach. Rows of oleanders, lemon trees and palms decorate the garden. 97 rooms and apartments | Acharávi | East of the roundabout | tel. 26 63 06 31 02 | www.acharavibeach.com | Moderate
Spacious, all-inclusive complex with a large fun pool directly on the beach. Many sports activities, open-air cinema, spa facilities with indoor pool. 281 studios and apartments | At the eastern edge of the village | tel. 26 63 06 40 00 | www.gelinavillage.gr | Expensive
| RÓDA INN |
Simple hotel and good value for money on the little used coastal road in Róda, only 10 m from the sandy beach. The very friendly owner, Helen, lives in Canada in winter and speaks English; most of the regular guests are British retirees. 25 rooms | Róda | tel. 26 63 06 33 58 | Budget
This beach hotel is a perfect example of how best to adapt to the natural and historical surroundings. The seventy apartments, each accommodating up to four, are spread over a number of individually designed two-storey, island-style houses. Here, you almost feel that you are in a Corfiot village but with all mod cons and facilities. These include two flood-lit tennis courts, a clubhouse and restaurant, a spa area and large pool. Acharávi | East of the roundabout | tel. 26 63 06 32 03 | www.stgeorgesbay.com | Expensive
Élena Vláchou’s travel agency on the cul-de-sac leading to the Ionian Princess Hotel can arrange holiday apartments and houses in Acharávi. Tel. 26 63 06 35 24
Road Atlas [127 D1] | Google Map
The northeast tip of Corfu is formed by the island of Agía Ekateríni that is covered by ferns and forests of pine, cypress and eucalyptus trees. On the landside, it is enclosed by Antoniótis, a lake of brackish water that is rich in fish, and the two arms connecting it to the sea. Bridges lead to the island; the one from Archarávi may only be used by pedestrians, cyclists and moped riders; the one to Ágios Spirídonas is also open to cars.
The deserted Agía Ekateríni (also written: Ayia Aikaterini) Monastery from 1713 lies hidden in a wood. Although there is not a lot to see, for those who want to, leave the track where it enters the wood and go straight ahead for two minutes.
Small paths also lead off of the main one to small, almost deserted, shingle beaches where nude bathing is possible. However, the 100-metre-long sandy beach at Ágios Spirídonas is much nicer; its gentle incline also makes it suitable for small children. There is a new, rather nondescript chapel and the Lagoon Taverna (daily | Moderate) that serves fresh fish on the beach. 8 km (5 mi) from Archarávi
Road Atlas [126 C1] | Google Map
The tiny hamlet with its houses scattered through an olive grove and a long beach of coarse sand is well known for the Gregóris tavern only 20 metres from the water. The live lobsters, caught by the proprietor, are less expensive than elsewhere (signposted | Moderate). 6 km (3.7 mi) from Róda
Road Atlas [126 C2] | Google Map
The Evstrámenou Church, which is unique in the world and continues to baffle historians, is located on the outskirts of Nímfes and can only be visited from outside. A dome similar to that of a Ceylonese stupa – a form of Buddhist temple – rises up over a hexagonal base. It is crowned by a hexagonal lantern of six windows. The church was probably erected in the 18th century but the white extension with the four-sided lantern and bell tower was not added until 1860.
The centre of the village lies on the edge of a valley with many cumquat trees. The simple taverns (Budget) are only open in the evening – except in August when they open earlier. Left on the road from Plátonas to Nímfes (signposted) | 6 km (3.7 mi) from Róda
PALEÓ PERÍTHIARoad Atlas [127 E2] | Google Map
Paleó Períthia looks like a museum village from the Venetian period. Situated in a fertile, high-altitude valley below Pantokrátor, it was quite well-off in former days as can be seen by the large, sturdy stone houses and churches. However, its inhabitants moved down to the coast where they founded Néa Períthia (New Períthia). Only a few elderly shepherds remained. The village fell into oblivion and escaped the cementing boom of the 1970s and 80s. In the early 1990s, the first tavern opened and, today, there are four. The locals like the Taverna Fóros best – also because of its excellent walnut cake. Buses only twice a day to Loútses, then 3 km (1.9 mi) on foot | 15 km (9.3 mi) from Archarávi
In the deserted village Paleó Períthia time seems to have stood still |
Road Atlas [126 B1–2] | Google Map
Sidári is like a fairground. There is a string of bars, travel agencies and souvenir shops along the main street; nothing is left of its former charm. The lingua franca is only Greek in winter; in summer, everyone speaks English. The pools are flooded with rock music and there is hardly a bar that doesn’t have a large screen for sporting events.
Sidári might not be everybody’s first choice for a holiday but it is worth visiting. Corfu’s impressive, light-coloured cliffs that stretch around Cape Drástis past the small village of Peruládes, begin to the west of the stream that separates Sidári from the parish of Peruládes. Good swimmers can reach the water over the smooth rocks at the cape and the deckchair hire operator also offers short motorboat trips under the sheer cliffs along the coast.
In Sidári (pop. 400) itself, you can rent a taxi-boat to take you along the coast or a pedal boat to at least get a closer look at some of the nearby areas under your own steam. If you don’t rent a boat, you should walk or drive from the bridge over the stream towards Peruládes and turn off the small road to the Pool Bar Restaurant Kahlua at the Canal d’Amour. Here, the coast is not yet as steep and inaccessible as it becomes further westwards and there are even deckchairs and sunshades on the cliffs. These cliffs are lined with small bays and drowned valleys with short sandy beaches and a number of caves. 8 km (5 mi) from Róda
Umbrellas, sunbeds and paddle boats can be hired on the beach at Sidári |
Road Atlas [126 A–B 2–3] | Google Map
Ágios Geórgios and Arillás only come alive in summer but Afiónas exudes a delightful rural atmosphere, making it worth visiting on your way round the island. There are no major sights in any of the three villages but the surroundings of Arillás in particular attract many holidaymakers who want to do yoga and meditate.
The owner serves excellent open wines, including some from Crete and Neméa on the Peloponnese, and cooks mainly with seasonal products from the region – she also prepares vegetarian dishes. If she has time, the bubbly proprietor likes to talk about the country and its people. Daily, in the evening, Sun–Fri, also at lunchtime | On the main road to Afíonas | Moderate
A taverna with a panoramic terrace high above Ágios Geórgios bay. Very friendly service. Bekrí mezé (a kind of Greek stew) and roast pork in wine sauce are the specialities of the house. Daily | Afíonas | 100 m from the village square (signposted, although it cannot be reached by car) | Budget
The best taverna in town, many local regulars. Here, you can still go into the kitchen and take a look in the pots. Daily | Afíonas | At the top of the main street | Budget
Many centres offer courses, seminars and workshops throughout the six -summer months. At the Ouranos Centre the focus is on meditation and creative programmes, while the more international Alexis Zorbas Centre (www.alexiszorbas.com) stresses body work. The Corfu Meditation House in Afiónas offers the right ambience for meditating with an experienced Reiki expert and two rooms.
| OLIVES AND MORE | |
This is where you can find first-class olive oil and products made of it, as well as creations conjured up by the owners themselves. They produce red-wine vinegar and olive paste, preserve olives and fill olive oil into tins you can take with you on the plane. If you like, you can even get it straight from the barrel. Sun–Fri 10am–2pm and 3–9pm, Sat only 3–9pm | Afíonas | At the top end of the village square
The perfect place for the romantically minded and shell collectors. The jewellery designer Alex in Ágios Geórgios Pagón can cast miniature olive pits, things you have found or that have been washed up on the shore, in bronze, silver or gold for you to wear as a pendant in less than 40 minutes. Pági | On the road to the beach | www.ilios-living-art.com
The sand beach at Arillás is more than 2.5 km (1.6 mi) long. The south half is in front of the town and the northern section, where you can bathe without a swimsuit, is under the cliffs on the coast. There is a third, smaller, beach to the south, 15 minutes walk from Afíonas.
There are discos and music clubs in Ágios Geórgios and Arillás – but they come and go and the names change every year.
| PANORAMA | |
Four apartments accommodating 2–4, on the slope below the taverna of the same name with a wonderful view of the sea and sunset are available to rent. On the main street in Afiónas | tel. 26 63 0518 46 | www.panoramacorfu.com | Budget
Rooms and studios in a magnificent panoramic location high above the bay of Ágios Geórgios; perfect peace with absolutely no traffic noise. The ideal place to unwind and forget the rest of the world. 8 rooms | Afíonas | tel. 26 63 05 20 51 | Moderate
Road Atlas [126 A2] | Google Map
This is an unplanned conglomeration of nondescript guesthouses, summer houses, tavernas and shops but the beach with its fine sand is 2 km (1.2 mi) long. Excursion boats leave from here for the islands Mathráki and Othoní. The surfing crowd is attracted by the frequently strong winds that blow across the bay. Nudists get together in the northern section of the beach under the steep cliffs. The glass artist Perdita Mouzakiti makes objects out of coloured glass in the centre of the settlement and her sister, Claudia, is usually around to advise customers and take care of sales (www.perditasglassart.com). 1000 m from Arillás, 3 km (1.9 mi) from Ágios Geórgios
Cape Drástis– the steep cliffs in the northwest can only be reached on foot or by boat |
CAPE DRÁSTIS Of all of Corfu’s beautiful coastal landscapes, the one at the far northwest tip of the island is perhaps the nicest. It can be reached after a walk of around 30 minutes along a track that is also open to cars. It begins at the primary school in Peruládes (signposted). There is initially a slight incline after which it runs down to the sea and then, all of a sudden, you have the picture-book panorama of the bay in front of you. Below the almost 100 m (330 ft) high cape, sandstone formations like dragons’ combs surround a small bay with a little island that looks like a shark’s fin in front of it. The path winds past the cape to the east and ends up in a tiny bay framed by slabs of rock. If the sea is calm, you can jump into the water here and enjoy a swim in the crystal-clear sea with a view of the steep, light-coloured cliffs that tower up right out of the water. 10 km (6.2 mi) from Arillás
Road Atlas [126 A2] | Google Map
The most north-western village on Corfu (pop. 780) has a fascinating beach. It is long and narrow and stretches along both sides of the village under a steep, towering coastline; a tarmac footpath leads down to it from the Panórama Bar and Restaurant (daily | Budget). If you don’t care for the music there, the neighbouring taverna Sunset might be more to your liking; it also has rooms in the village (daily | Moderate).
There is only one – extremely elegant – hotel in Peruládes. The young brother and sister duo Aléxandros and Lukía run the 200-year-old Villa de Loulia with its pool and garden. (9 rooms | tel. 26 63 09 53 94 | www.villadeloulia.gr | Expensive). 8 km (5 mi) from Arillás
Road Atlas [127 E3] | Google Map
Here, the hotels are located between the road around the island and the steep rock walls of the Pantokrátor massif, while in Nissáki they can be found between the road and rocky shore. There are a few tavernas with beautiful panoramic terraces and a handful of shops along the road.
In this simple tavern on a terrace jutting out over the sea between Nissáki’s miniature beach and port, you will find one of the best lemon tarts. The location makes up for the very average pizzas, pasta and other dishes. Daily | Above the tiny car park at the harbourside in Nissáki | Budget
Barbáti’s rocky and pebbly beach is around 800 m long and up to 20 m wide. The increase in building activity on the slopes has made it rather crowded. Most of the coast near Nissáki is rocky with tiny shingle beaches and less activity. In summer, there are two water-sport centres in Barbáti and one in Nissáki on the sand-and-pebble beach below the Hotel Sol Nissáki Beach which offer a good range of activities and have equipment for hire.
| LITTLE FARMHOUSE | | |
If you want to live really rustically, Anna Polychromiádou will take care of you. The organic farmer has a holiday house for 2–4 to rent, with a donkey for the children, chickens for your breakfast egg and a lot of tales to tell about the island. Signpost at the south entrance to the village of Kéndroma, about 100 m above the road around the island | tel. 26 63 09 12 20 | www.guestinn.com | Budget
The historian Hannelore Stammler has turned a Venetian country house, painted dusky pink in the style of the island, into an elegant hotel with pool and panoramic views where lunch and dinner are provided for guests if they request it. Above the road from Pirgí to Barbáti | tel. 26 61 09 39 22 | www.residenz-serenissima.de (click Union Jack for English text) | Expensive
| PALÉO CHORIÓ |
Road Atlas [127 E3] | Google Map
Paléo Chorió is a ghost village in which only one house has been restored since 2000. All the others are roofless ruins. The last inhabitants probably moved away before World War II. Remnants of frescoes can be found in the empty old village church, including a lovely depiction of the Twelve Apostles. You can only reach Paléo Chorió on foot, by off-road motorbike, mountain bike or 4×4; the dusty track between Vinglatúri and Pantokrátor is impassable for normal cars. 7 km (4.3 mi) from Nissáki
Road Atlas [127 E2] | Google Map
A tarmac road leads up to Corfu’s highest mountain with an altitude of around 910 m. The view from the peak is breathtaking and, if the weather is clear, reaches far into Albania and the Greek mainland. A former monastery from the 17th century located on the peak is surrounded by civil and military radio masts. Since 1998, it has been occupied once again in the summer months – alternately by a priest from a nearby mountain village and a monk from a Corfiot monastery. Since then, time-consuming restoration of the church frescoes has taken place and some of them have now regained their seventeenth-century splendour. Depic-tions of Jesus’ descent into Hades, the Annunciation, the Nativity and Jesus in the Temple can be made out in the southern section of the vault. Accessible during day-light hours | Entrance free | 26 km (16.2 mi) from Nissáki
Road Atlas [127 D2–3] | Google Map
Corfu’s highest mountain village is located 630 m above sea level and has only 45 inhabitants. A taverna under the old elm on the village square offers good food. 20 km (12 mi) from Nissáki
This taverna in Strinílas, Corfu’s highest mountain village, is very popular |
Road Atlas [127 E1–2] | Google Map
The eastern bay is a protected natural harbour for fishing and excursion boats and yachts; most of the village’s bars and taverns are located around the harbour basin. A headland with old olive trees and the overgrown ruins of a Venetian castle separates the two bays.
In Roman times, Kassiópi was a harbour town where ships stopped over to wait for better weather before sailing from Greece to Italy – taking Emperor Nero or Cicero the statesman with them.
Fishing boats as well as lots of yachts anchor in the harbour in Kassiópi |
Over the past few years, the EU has invested millions in the castle that the Venetians built in 1386 on top of the remains of old walls. The interior, completely overgrown by scrub, is illuminated at night and a sprinkler system ensures its protection from fire. The gatehouse has been restored and improvements made to the outer walls with their 13 towers. However, there was no money left to signpost the way to the castle and completely pave the path. Free access | The path to the castle begins on the main road to the harbour opposite Panagía Kassiópitra Church.
This church from 1590 occupies the site on which the Romans had built a temple to the father of the Gods Jupiter 1600 years before. The walls of the house of worship were decorated with frescoes in the 17th century but only a few remnants have been preserved. An icon of Saint Mary from 1670 is especially beautiful. It shows the Virgin holding the baby Jesus seated on a throne with the church and castle of Kassiópi below. Open sporadically | Access from the main road to the harbour and the terrace of the Three Brothers Tavern at the harbour
Many varieties of English breakfast are served in this taverna on the main beach until 3pm. Most of the other dishes on the menu are also British. Daily | Where the one-way road from the harbour meets the circular island road | Expensive
The view from this harbour tavern is lovely – if tourist coaches do not happen to be in the way. The choice of dishes is extensive – the quality, average. Galéos bourdéto is one of the specialities of the house. Daily | At the harbourside | Moderate
The long sandy Main Beach skirts Kassiópi’s western bay. The promenade that leads around the peninsula with the castle is about a 20-minute walk and provides access to tiny shingle beaches. The most beautiful beach in Kassiópi, Batería Beach, at the head of the peninsula, is only about 80 m long; deckchairs and umbrellas are available for hire. It is also possible to swim from the rocks to the east of the harbour.
The beach in Batería may not be very long, but it’s lovely |
The best way to spend the evening is in one of the bars at the harbour. The Passion Disco on the south side of the basin opens its doors at midnight, with a British DJ usually playing the latest hits.
Most of the rooms in Kassiópi are in the hands of British and Scandinavian tourist agencies and not available to individual travellers. Other renters only accept guests who stay for more than one night.
The small hotel above the taverna of the same name, founded in 1935, is a godsend to those who only want to spend one night in Kassiópi. If you choose a room without a view, on the mountain side, you will even have a peaceful night. Private car park behind the house. The proprietor Lóla Sarakinú’s daughter, Mandi, speaks English. 30 rooms | Odós Kassiopítras 6 | Main road to the harbour | Budget
An old-fashioned guesthouse with very reasonable prices and many regular guests. The four rooms and studios are located around a small courtyard above a row of shops virtually on the harbour. The owner, Helena, takes good care of her guests. On the main road opposite the entrance to the churchyard. | tel. 26 63 08 12 31 | Budget
Road Atlas [127 F2] | Google Map
Ágios Stefános Siniés (pop. 230) is the closest Corfiot village to Albania. Yachts-men anchor in the long bay and several tavernas on the shore do all they can to attract guests. There are a few private rooms, but most are reserved for British tourist agencies. You can rent a motorboat for a tour along the coast. 6 km (3.7 mi) from Kassiópi
Road Atlas [127 E–F3] | Google Map
Agní is a peaceful bay with a 150 m-long, white shingle-and-stone beach, a few private rooms and three tavernas. Wooden jetties where yachts moor jut out into the water. The three inns all serve good fresh fish. There are many dishes for vegetarians on the menu of the Agní tavern – marída jemistá, sardines filled with cheese, garlic and parsley, are quite innovative. Scampi pilaf, piláfi me gárides, is the hit in Toula’s Taverna (all open daily | Budget). You should use the car park on the outskirts of the village; it is often impossible to turn at the waterside! 11 km (6.8 mi) from Kassiópi
Road Atlas [127 F2] | Google Map
The 500 m-long shingle beach to the southeast of Kassiópi is still hardly built up. There is only one taverna, a water-sport centre and the modern apartment-hotel Bella Mare (27 rooms | tel.: 26 63 08 19 97 | Expensive). You can walk there from Kassiópi in around 25 minutes. 2 km (1.2 mi) from Kassiópi
Road Atlas [127 F3] | Google Map
The tiny hamlet of Kalámi on the coast is almost smothered by a large holiday club complex. A visit can be recommended for fans of Lawrence Durrell’s Corfu classic Prospero’s Cell. The Durrell family lived in Kalámi in the 1930s – in the large property on the shore called White House. The four-bedroomed building can be rented as a holiday house; the Durrell family’s dining table is still there! (www.white-house-corfu.gr | Budget). There is now a good taverna on the ground floor (daily | Budget)
The 250 m-long pebble-and-stone beach is relatively small for so many summer holidaymakers. However, there is a track from here to Gialiskári Beach in the north where there are a lot less people on the pebbly beach and rocks. This is also an interesting underwater world for snorkelers. 11 km (6.8 mi) from Kassiópi
Road Atlas [127 E3] | Google Map
The much-photographed shingle beach, measuring just 100 × 15 m, lies in front of a tiny coastal settlement with two tavernas (Budget) and a water-sport business (www.kaminakiboats.com) that also rents out motorboats without a skipper. There are around 60 loungers under 30 sunshades on the beach, but there is always enough space for your towel if you prefer.
The semi-oval harbour basin in front of the fortified country seat from the 16th century in Kulúra is one of Corfu’s standard postcard images. It is worth taking a photo but a waste of time driving down to the harbour where there are hardly any parking spaces. The house has belonged to an Italian family since 1986 and is off-limits to holidaymakers. 10 km (6.2 mi) from Kassiópi
Road Atlas [126 B–C4] | Google Map
It is separated into a series of smaller bays by several rocky headlands. The coast is mainly stony, but there are some small sandy beaches – many of which can only be reached by boat. The lush green stretches all the way down to the water’s edge and slopes rise up several hundred metres into the hinterland.
Many Corfiots consider Paleokastrítsa the most beautiful spot on earth. There is no village centre as such, the hotels, houses and tavernas being loosely scattered in a magnificent landscape and are often hidden between olive groves and cypresses. You will need to walk for about 3.5 km (2.2 mi) if you want to see all of Paleokastrítsa.
The most beautiful view of the bay is from the large mountain village of Lákones that is also called the ‘balcony of the Ionian Sea’. Most of the cafés and restaurants have generous terraces offering panoramic views. A 40-minute walk along a path through an olive grove will take you down to Paleokastrítsa; the serpentine road is about 6 km (3.7 mi) long.
Liapádes on the other hand is around 1000 m from the coast and has no view of the sea. A holiday settlement stretches from the old village to Liapádes Beach on the bay. The small village square is really charming, being bordered by the terraces of five traditional cafés and the bell tower of the village church. The farmers still make their way across the square with their donkeys.
Paleokastrítsa and the adjoining coastal areas are among the most beautiful on Corfu |
PANAGÍA THEOTÓKU TIS PALEO-KASTRÍTSAS MONASTERY The white monastery of the ‘The Holy Bearer of God of Paleokastrítsa’ perches high above the sea on a steep cliff at the end of the bay. With its magnificent view, shady arcades, courtyard full of flowers and beautiful church, it is one of the major and most-visited attractions on Corfu. Three monks still live here accompanied by several elderly and handicapped people who spend their summer holidays with them.
The monastery was founded in the 12th century; however the present building was erected in the 18th. You can see God the Father, the Son and the Holy Ghost in the form of a white dove painted on the ceiling of the single-nave church. The church’s most precious icon has been placed at the front on the left-hand wall. The work only measures 43 × 33 cm and shows three Fathers of the Church identifiable by their stoles decorated with crosses. Behind them, there is a depiction of a dramatic event that actually occurred in Corfu on the feast day of these three saints, on 30 January, in 1653. A firework that had been lit in their honour exploded while a nurse holding a child in her arms was standing nearby. As if by miracle, the child remained uninjured although the nurse was killed. She can be seen clearly in the right-hand section of the painting. Blood is pouring out of her side, she falls to the ground while still holding the child in her arms. The child’s parents donated the icon as a sign of their gratitude to the saints for this (modest) miracle; the text to the right of the strip of pictures gives a detailed description of the occurrence.
There are two other icons at the back of the church on the left-hand and right-hand walls. They were painted in 1713 and illustrate four scenes of the Creation. April–Oct daily 7am–1pm and 3–8pm; the best time to visit is before 9am and after 5pm when the hordes of tourists have left the church. Whatever you do, don’t park in the spaces reserved for buses – the drivers will block you in mercilessly! | Entrance free
Tourist magnet: the romantic monastery Panágia Theotóku tis Paleokastrítsas |
Not only can you look down onto Paleokastrítsa Bay from the highest restaurant in the region, you can also see all the way to Kérkyra and the Greek mainland. The proprietors Spíros and Frósso Chalíkia serve what is probably the island’s best walnut cake (karidópitta) and many other homemade Corfiot specialities on the several floors of their restaurant. Daily | Above the road from Lákones to Makrádes, park on the road | Expensive
Taverna with a lovely panoramic terrace and very friendly service. If you ask, you can have boiled potatoes as a side dish instead of the omnipresent chips. Daily | On the main road, next to Hotel Odysseus | Moderate
Since 1986 Mr Alkibíade has passionately devoted himself to his search for beautifully grained olive wood to create unique objects after his own designs. He is considered the most gifted olive-wood carver on the island. Lákones | On the left as you exit the village on the road to Mákrades
During the tourist season, the top end of the road to Panagía Theotóku ti Paleokastrítsas Monastery and the square in front of it turn into a large street market every morning at around 10am when Africans sell arts and crafts from their native countries and Corfiots painted objects of all sorts. The stones painted with Corfiot motifs by Ilía Sigouroú make nice little gifts and only cost from 3 euros upwards. She will sign them on the back if you want and can usually be found on the tiny lookout platform in front of the church opposite the café (Moderate) from whose terrace you have a wonderful view of the steep coastline and Angelókastro Castle.
The pebble beaches in the three large bays Ambeláki, Spíridon and Alípa are easy to reach. Flights of steps lead from the main road down to other smaller pebbly bays. Liapádes’ shingle beach is around 150 km (9.3 mi) long. None of them are really ideal for children. Boat taxis leave from Spíridon Beach, the pier in front of the La Grotta Bar, the harbour at Alípa Beach and Liapádes Beach for the numerous other sandy and shingle bays that can only be reached from the sea. If you wish, you can rent a motorboat with up to 30 HP – and you don’t need a licence.
142 steps lead from the main road opposite Hotel Paleokastrítsa to a small bar in an artificial grotto made of volcanic rock. Here, you can listen to the owner’s favourite music or soak up the sound of the sea. Daily | Paleokastrítsa
This five-storey hotel – with its fresh-water swimming pool high above one of the many lovely bays in Paleokastrítsa – can be seen from afar. The small shingle beach with water-sport facilities can be reached via a small flight of steps. 127 rooms | On the main road | tel. 26 63 04 12 75 | www.akotriri-beach.com | Expensive
For motorised holidaymakers who don’t necessarily want to stay near the beach, there is probably no lovelier accommodation in northern Corfu than Golden Fox’s six studios. Four of them have a balcony with a view of the sea, as well as the bays in Paleokastrítsa and Angelókastro Castle. The complex high above the sea also has a good restaurant, a bar, a large souvenir shop and a beautifully designed freshwater pool. Unfortunately, however, the rooms are only simply equipped. 11 studios | On the road from Lákones to Makrádes | tel. 26 63 04 91 01 | www.corfugoldenfox.com | Moderate–Expensive
100 m from the beach and 1500 m from the centre of the village, with pool and a very good hotel restaurant. 50 rooms | On the road to the beach | tel. 26 63 04 12 94 | Budget
| VILLA FIORITA STUDIOS |
Guesthouse with a large garden run by the friendly Loúlis family. 100 m from the sea, two minutes from a bus stop. 15 studios away from the main road in the village | tel. 26 63 04 13 52 | fiorita@shms.gr | Moderate
ANGELÓKASTRO Road Atlas [126 B4] | Google Map
The ruins of this Byzantine-Venetian ‘Angels’ Castle’ stand high above the west coast on a mountain peak with steep slopes on all sides. Until the last Turkish invasion of the island in 1716, this repeatedly offered refuge to the population of northern Corfu when enemies or pirates approached. Nobody was ever able to conquer Angelókastro. A tarmac road leads from Makrádes to a car park 700 metres beyond Kriní at the foot of the castle hill. You’ll have to walk up a steep path for the last 7 to 10 minutes but you will be rewarded with a wonderful view for your effort. Tue–Sun 8am–3pm | Entrance free | 5.5 km (3.4 mi) from Lákones
Perfectly built on the top of a cliff: Angelókastro Castle |
Road Atlas [126 B4] | Google Map
Makrádes (pop. 300) is a large mountain village with many old houses and narrow lanes. Nowhere else on Corfu have so many inhabitants specialised in selling herbs and local table wine as here. Fierce competition forces them to make furious attempts to stop any passing car! In the Colombo Taverna (daily | Budget) on the village square there is a more than 200-year-old olive press and you can sample many Corfiot specialities and all kinds of meat from the charcoal grill. 3 km (1.9 mi) from Lákones
Road Atlas [126 B4] | Google Map
The mountain village (population 160) itself, on the road from Makrádes to the Trumbétta Pass and located in the midst of olive groves, has little of interest as such.
However, the most delightful wine stand on the island can be found not far away on the road to Pági To Chelidóni – which means ‘the swallow’. Panajótis Koríkis and his wife can be found here every day from 10am onwards at their picturesque tables – set with loving care – opposite their vineyards. They will let you taste their semi-sweet red and fruity dry white table wine before you buy it; they also sell local walnuts, as well as olive oil and herbs at reasonable prices. 6 km (3.7 mi) from Lákones, turn left at the sign on the outskirts of the village.
Live economically: the 10 apartments at Harry’s Bar in Acharávi Road Atlas [127 D1] are simple but spacious. Tel. 26 63 06 30 38, mobile 69 74 91 66 37 | Studios from 25 euros | www.harrysbar-apartments.com
A cheap swim: there are reduced prices in the Hydropolis fun pool near Acharávi Road Atlas [127 D1] after 3.30pm. Adults only pay 10 euros and children (5–12 years) 6 euros (address see p. 197).